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    Preseason Build - 4 Week - Logical Progression 3: Session 1: Integrated Strength / 7:3 Repeaters

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    Leonardo Zara

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    Preseason Build - 4 Week - Logical Progression 3: Session 1: Integrated Strength / 7:3 Repeaters

    Uploaded by

    Leonardo Zara
    56 views3 pages

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    56 views3 pages

    Preseason Build - 4 Week - Logical Progression 3: Session 1: Integrated Strength / 7:3 Repeaters

    Uploaded by

    Leonardo Zara

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    of 3

    (https://www.climbstrong.

    com)

    MY ACCOUNT
    (/MY-ACCOUNT/)

    Preseason Build – 4 week – Logical


    Progression 3
     Route Climbing (/training-plans/?
     fwp_training_plan_subcategory=route-climbing)
    integrated strength
    (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-
    center/tag/integrated-strength/), logical
    progression
    (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-
     center/tag/logical-progression/), nonlinear
    (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-
    center/tag/nonlinear/), preseason
    (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-
    center/tag/preseason/)

    This plan is built to be done in any rock gym, and you should feel free to modify the specifics as necessary as long as the general build keeps
    its form. This 4-week plan (which can be extended to 6 or even 8 weeks if progress keeps coming) is ideally suited for a run-up to a big trip or
    performance phase. As opposed to our off-season programs, we really turn up the energy system work in this plan, and look at trying to
    maintain strength built previously rather than trying to increase it.

    This is, like all nonlinear programs, a sequenced series of sessions that aren’t necessarily tied to the week. In this plan, we’ll have three training
    sessions, and will allow for one to two days per week of climbing at the crag.

    The sessions are:


    1. Integrated Strength Training (3 groups of exercises, 3 sets each)
    2. Medium/Hard Level Bouldering
    3. 2-4-2 Capacity Circuits

    Session 1: Integrated Strength / 7:3 Repeaters


    This is a bit of a divergence from our normal IS programs, in that the finger strength is done at the end of the session. This is approximately an
    hour to 75 minute session for most athletes. Warm-up well for this session. Remember, your goal is to hold strength steady this phase, so
    don’t try to push loads the way you would off season, otherwise we tap into resources we’d rather use elsewhere…

    Group A (3 rounds):

    Deadlift (https://youtu.be/ALKjwhNo9aw) (from blocks) x3

    Frog Stretch (https://youtu.be/oLfrrZGLJ8Y) x40 seconds

    1-Arm Overhead Press (https://youtu.be/9zn4BBrFrIo) x3+3

    Group B (3 rounds):

    Rack Front Squat (https://youtu.be/EYI7t0RwUwU) x6

    Superband Overhead Stretch (https://youtu.be/hjUXanQ8hV8) x40 sec each side

    DB Row (https://youtu.be/uyC_cyESs2w) x6+6

    Group C (3 rounds):

    Hanging Straight Leg Raise (https://youtu.be/Iz3pQJ19NVA) x12

    Prying Cobra (https://youtu.be/yBT_xgejkok) x40 seconds

    Ab Wheel Roll Out (https://youtu.be/s9KRdWIsyCg) x12

    7:3 Repeaters

    2 rounds of 7 x 7:3 in the following positions (Beastmaker 6Cish session (https://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/training)) [this is available on
    Beastmaker’s excellent mobile app.]

    4-Finger ½ Crimp

    4-Finger Open Hand

    3-Finger Open

    4-Finger Open

    2-Finger Middle Pair

    2-Finger First Pair

    Session 2: Medium/Hard Bouldering


    This is not a limit session. This session should be done on a variety of problems from a little below your onsight level to a little above. Track
    Average V for the session, and work toward improving this number slightly through the cycle. Aim for 75-90 minutes of climbing, but be willing
    to stop the session if you feel power declining. Remember that this session is about explosiveness and hard movement, not about fatigue.
    Fatigue gets trained next session…

    Session 3: 2-4-2 Capacity Bouldering


    In this session, you’ll do a normal warm-up, followed by a sequence of 3 sets of boulders.

    The first will be two problems at about your onsight level, linked together by an easy downclimb. You can do the same problem twice if this is
    easier to set up. If your onsight is V7, then you might do V7+V7, V6+V7, or the like.

    Rest 3 minutes, then you are going to do four slightly easier problems back-to-back, but without having to downclimb. Simply do problem one,
    jump down, do problem 2, jump down and do problem 3, jump down and do problem 4. In our V7 onsighter example above, these might be V4-
    V5-V5-V6 or a similar sequence. You should be able to complete all of the problems with good form. If not, back off slightly on the difficulty.

    Rest 3 minutes, then go back to a back-to-back pair of onsight level problems linked, just like in the first group, above. After completing this
    pair rest 8-10 minutes. Repeat the full sequence 2 more times.
     

    This makes for three sets with 8 problems per set – a total of 24 problems. Progress this not by adding more problems, or by reducing rest,
    but by increasing the difficulty of the climbing.

    Posted in:

    Tags: integrated strength (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/tag/integrated-strength/), logical progression


    (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/tag/logical-progression/), nonlinear (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-
    center/tag/nonlinear/), preseason (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/tag/preseason/)


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