Superbike 1098 - 1098S MY 2007: Home Main

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SUPERBIKE 1098 - Home Main

1098S MY 2007
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General
0General
0Information about the model
0Technical data
0Use and maintenance
0Fairings
0Controls - Devices
0Wheels - Suspension - Brakes
0Frame
0Fuel / Exhaust System
0Injection - ignition system
0Engine
0Electric system
0GENERAL SUMMARY
Section A
0General
1 - How to use this manual 3
Layout of the manual 4
2 - Symbols - Abbreviations - References 5

Product specifications 6
3 - Hazardous Products - Warnings 8

General safety rules 8
General maintenance indications 10
Section B
1 - Identification data 3
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General
Identification data for the Superbike 1098 3
Section C
0Technical data
1.1 - Technical specifications 3
General 3
Colours 4
Transmission 4
Timing system/valves 5
Crankshaft 5
Cylinder/Piston 5
Gearbox 6
Cooling system 6
Front wheel 6
Front suspension (1098) 6
Front suspension (1098S) 7
Rear wheel 7
Rear suspension (1098) 7
Rear suspension (1098S) 7
Hydraulic brakes 8
Charging system/alternator 8
Injection - ignition system 8
Fuel system 9
Lights/instrument panel 9
1.2 - Dimensions 10
2 - Fuel, lubricants and other fluids 11
3 - Torque settings 12
Frame torque settings 12
Engine torque settings 17
4 - Service tools 20
Special tools for the engine 20
Service tools for the frame 26

General
Section D
1 - Preliminary checks 3
Running-in precautions 3
Pre-ride checks 4
2 - Starting - Engine warmup 5

Starting the engine 5
3 - Routine maintenance table 6

Programmed maintenance plan: operations to be carried out by the dealer 6
4 - Maintenance operations 9
Checking the engine oil level 9
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge 10
Checking valve clearances 13
Adjusting the valve clearances 14
Checking the coolant level 15
Changing the coolant 16
Changing and cleaning the air filters 17
Changing the brake fluid 19
Draining the brake circuit 22
Fill the brake system with fluid 24
Changing the clutch fluid 27
Draining the clutch hydraulic circuit 28
Filling the clutch circuit 30
Adjusting the steering head bearings 32
Adjusting the chain tension 33
Checking brake pad wear and changing brake pads 35
Adjusting the throttle cable 38
Adjusting the clutch lever and front brake lever 40
Adjusting the position of the gearchange and rear brake pedals 41
Adjusting the front fork 42
Adjusting the rear shock absorber 43

General
Adjusting the rear ride height 45
5 - Diagnostic instruments 47
Description of the Ducati Diagnostic System instrument 48
Tester power supply 50
DDS tester 53
Checking and adjusting timing belt tension 54
Resetting the throttle position sensor (TPS) 58
Adjusting the idle speed 62
Checking the engine oil pressure 67
Cylinder compression test 72
Fuel pressure test 75
Immobilizer override procedure 78
Guided diagnosis 82
Testing the battery charging system 85
Deactivating the “service” indication on the instrument panel 88
Icons table 91
Section E
0Fairings
1 - Headlight shell - rear-view mirrors 3
Removal of the rear-view mirrors 4
Refitting the rear-view mirrors 5
Removal of the air scoop covers 6
Refitting the air scoop covers 8
Removal of the headlight shell 11
Refitting the headlight shell 13
2 - Fairing panels 16
Removal of the side fairings 17
Removal of the front shield 20
Refitting the front shield 20
Refitting the side fairings 21
3 - Seat – seat cowling and side panels 23

Removal of the seats 24

General
Removal of the side panels and seat cowling 25

Refitting the side panels and seat cowling 28
Refitting the seats 32
Refitting the pillion seat 33
4 - Front mudguard 34
Removal of the front mudguard 34
Refitting the front mudguard 35
Section F
0Controls - Devices
1 - Throttle twistgrip 3
Removal of the throttle cable 4
Reassembling the throttle control 5
2 - Hydraulic clutch control 7

Removal of the clutch master cylinder assembly 8
Refitting the clutch master cylinder assembly 9
Removal of the clutch slave cylinder 11
Refitting the clutch slave cylinder 13
3 - Front brake control 16

Removal of the front brake master cylinder 17
Refitting the front brake master cylinder 18
4 - Rear brake control 19

Removal of the complete gearchange control 20
Disassembly of the rear brake master control 21
Refitting the rear brake control 22
5 - Gearchange control 23
Disassembly of the gearchange control 25
Refitting the gearchange control 26

General
Section G
1 - Front wheel 4
Removal of the front wheel 5
Overhauling the front wheel 7
Refitting the front wheel 10
2 - Front fork (1098) 12

Removal of the front forks 1098 13
Overhauling the front forks 1098 15
Refitting the front forks 1098 22
2 - Front fork 1098S 25

Removal of the front forks 1098S 26
Overhauling the front forks 1098S 26
Refitting the front forks 1098S 37
3 - Hydraulic front brake 38

Maintenance operations 39
Removal of the front brake system 40
Refitting the brake discs 42
Overhauling the front brake components 43
Refitting the front brake system 44
4 - Rear wheel 47
Removal of the rear wheel 48
Overhauling the rear wheel 49
Refitting the rear wheel 50
5 - Rear swingarm 51
Removal of the rear eccentric hub 52
Removal of the swingarm 56
Inspecting the swingarm pivot shaft 58
Overhauling the rear swingarm 59

General
Refitting the swingarm 63
6 - Hydraulic rear brake 65

Removal of the rear brake caliper 66
Removal of the rear brake disc 67
Refitting the rear brake caliper 68
7 - Rear suspension 69
Rear suspension system 70
Removal of the rear shock absorber 71
Overhauling the rear shock absorber 1098 72
Overhauling the rear shock absorber 1098S 73
Removal of the rear suspension rocker arm 74
Overhauling the rear suspension rocker arm 75
Disassembly and overhaul of the shock absorber tie-rod 76
Reinstalling the rear suspension 77
8 - Final drive 79
Inspecting the final drive 80
Removal of the front sprocket 81
Refitting the front sprocket 83
Renewal of the rear sprocket 85
Refitting the rear sprocket 86
Washing the chain 87
Lubricating the chain 87
Section H
0Frame
1 - Handlebars 3
Removal of the handlebars 4
Refitting the handlebars 5
2 - Steering 6
Steering angle adjustment 8
Removal of the steering head components 9

General
Refitting the steering head components 11
3 - Steering damper (1098) 14

Removal of the steering damper 15
Refitting the steering damper 16
3 - Steering damper (1098S) 17

4 - Footrest brackets 20
Removal of the front footrests 21
Refitting the front footrests 22
Removal of the rear footrests 23
Refitting the rear footrests 24
5 - Sidestands 26
Removal of the sidestand. 27
Refitting the sidestand 29
6 - Frame inspection 30
Disassembly of structural components and the frame 31
Checking the frame 35
Reassembly of structural components and the frame 37
7 - Number plate holder 39

Removal of the number plate holder 40
Section L
2 - Fuel tank 3
Removal of the fuel tank 4
Removal of the fuel filler cap assembly 6
Refitting the fuel filler cap assembly 7
Renewal of the fuel tank flange 8
Refitting the fuel tank flange 9

General
Refitting the fuel tank 10
6 - Airbox – Throttle Body 14

Removal of the airbox and throttle body 15
Refitting the airbox and throttle body 24
7 - Air intake 30
Removal of the air filters 31
Refitting the air filters 32
8 - Exhaust system 33
Removal of the exhaust system 34
Refitting the exhaust system 38
10 - Evaporative emissions canister 44

Evaporative emissions canister system (US versions only) 45
Removal of the evaporative emissions canister 46
Refitting the evaporative emissions canister 46
Section M
2 - Fuel injection-ignition system 3
3 - System components 4
Electronic Control Unit (ECU) 4
Removal of the battery support 6
Refitting the battery support 9
Fuel injectors 13
Stepper motor 14
Air pressure sensor 15
Coolant temperature sensor 16
Air temperature sensor 17
Ignition coils 18
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) 21
Rpm/timing sensor 22
Injection relay 23

General
CAN Line 24
Section N
0Engine
1 - Removal–refitting of the engine assembly 5
Removal of the engine 6
Refitting the engine 9
2.1 - Lubrication system: oil pump 10

Removal of the oil pump 11
Disassembly of the oil pump 12
Reassembly of the oil pump 13
Refitting the oil pump 14
2.2 - Lubrication system: oil cooler 15

Removal of the lubrication system 16
Oil cooler inspection 18
Refitting the lubrication system 18
3.1 - Cooling system: coolant expansion tank 20

Removal of the expansion tank 21
Refitting the expansion tank 23
3.2 - Cooling system: radiator 26

Removal of the radiator 27
Renewal of the cooling fan 29
Refitting the radiator 30
Removal of the cooling system hoses and unions 32
Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions 35
3.3 - Cooling system: water pump 40

Removal of the water pump 41
Refitting the water pump 44
4.1 - Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments 49

Checking and adjusting the valve clearances 50

General
Checking valve lift 52

Checking the engine timing 54
4.2 - Cylinder head assemblies: timing 57

Removal of the timing belt covers 58
Removal of the tensioner pulley/timing belt 59
Removal of the camshaft pulleys/idler pulley 59
Removal of the tensioner and idler pulley mounting studs 60
Disassembly of the camshaft pulleys 61
Removal of the timing belt driveshaft pulleys 62
Refitting the timing belt driveshaft rollers 64
Refitting the idler and tensioner pulley mounting studs 66
Reassembly of the timing pulleys 67
Refitting the camshaft pulleys/idler pulleys 68
Refitting the timing belts 71
Refitting the timing covers 73
4.4 - Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts 74

Removal of the camshafts 75
Checking the camshafts and supports 77
Refitting the camshafts 78
Removal of the intake manifold and coolant union 84
Refitting the intake manifold and coolant union 85
4.5 - Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms 86

Removal of the cylinder heads 87
Removal of the valves 88
Removing the valve rocker arms 89
Overhaul of cylinder head components 92
Reassembly of the cylinder head 99
Fitting the cylinder head assemblies 106
5 - Cylinder/piston assemblies 108

Removal of the cylinder/piston assembly 109
Overhaul of the cylinder barrel/piston components 112
Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly 117
6.1 - Clutch assembly: clutch 121

Description 122

General
Removal of the clutch 123

Inspection and overhaul of the clutch components 128
Reassembly of the clutch 130
6.2 - Clutch assembly: right-hand side crankcase cover 134

Removal of the right-hand side crankcase cover 135
Disassembly of the right-hand side crankcase cover 136
Reassembly of the right-hand crankcase cover 137
Refitting the right-hand side crankcase cover 139
6.3 - Clutch assembly: primary drive gears 141

Removal of the primary drive gears 142
Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash 145
7.1 - Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism 148

Removal of the gearchange mechanism 149
Disassembly of gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly 151
Refitting the gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly 152
Refitting the gearchange mechanism 153
7.2 - Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts 155

Removal of the gearbox assembly 156
Disassembly of the gearbox shafts 158
Overhaul of the gearbox 163
Inspection of the gear selector forks 164
Inspection of the gear selector drum 165
Reassembly of the gearbox shafts 166
Reassembly of the gearbox 170
8 - Flywheel-alternator 171
Removal of the left-hand side crankcase cover 172
Disassembly of the left-hand crankcase cover 174
Removal of the flywheel/alternator assembly 175
Overhaul of the flywheel/alternator assembly 177
Refitting the flywheel/alternator assembly 185
Refitting the left-hand crankcase cover 187
9.1 - Crankcase assembly: external components 190

Removal of external components 192

General
Refitting the external components 195

Removal of the timing gears 199
Refitting the timing gears 200
Removal of the starter motor idler gear 201
Refitting the starter motor idler gear 202
Checking the engine sensor air gap 204
9.2 - Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves 205

Separation of the crankcase halves 207
Overhaul of the crankcase halves 210
Main bearings 214
Reassembly of the crankcase halves 215
Shimming the shafts 218
9.3 - Crankcase assembly: connecting rods 229

Removal of the connecting rods assembly 230
Disassembly of the connecting rods 231
Overhaul of the connecting rods 232
Reassembly of the connecting rods 237
Refitting the connecting rods. 239
Section P
0Electric system
1 - Wiring diagram 4
Key to wiring diagram 5
Wiring colour codes 6
Key to fusebox 6
Routing of wiring on frame 7
Plate 1 9
Plate 2 9
Plate 3 10
Plate 4 10
Plate 5 11
Plate 6 11
Plate 7 12

General
Plate 8 13
Plate 9 14
Plate 10 14
Plate 11 15
Plate 12 15
Plate 13 16
Plate 14 17
Plate 15 18
Plate 16 19
Plate 17 20
Plate 18 21
Plate 19 22
Plate 20 23
Plate 21 24
Plate 22 24
Plate 23 25
Plate 24 26
Plate 25 27
Plate 26 28
Plate 27 29
Plate 28 30
Plate 28 31
Plate 29 32
Plate 30 33
Plate 31 34
Plate 32 35
Plate 33 36
Plate 34 37
Plate 35 37
Plate 36 38
Plate 37 39
Plate 38 40
Plate 39 41
Plate 40 42
Plate 41 43
Plate 42 44
Plate 43 45
2 - Battery charging system 46

General
Checking the battery charging system 46

Recharging the battery 47
Topping up the electrolyte 48
Battery 51
Alternator 53
Regulator/rectifier 56
3 - Electric starting system 59

Electric starting system 59
Starter motor 60
Starter contactor 63
4 - Lights and indicating devices 66

Changing light bulbs 66
High beam headlights relay 69
Headlight aim 71
5 - Indicating devices 72
Checking the indicating system components 72
Fan relay 80
Checking operation of the fan relay 80
6 - Protection and safety devices 85

Checking protection and safety device components 85
Checking the fuses 87
7 - Instruments 88
Instrument panel 88
Instrument panel system 89
Display settings and functions 91
8 - Immobilizer and transponder 118

Using a multimeter to check the electrical systems 122
10 - USB Data Acquisition (DAQ) (for 1098S only) 124

General

General
0General
1 - How to use this manual 3
Layout of the manual 4
2 - Symbols - Abbreviations - References 5

Product specifications 6
3 - Hazardous Products - Warnings 8

General safety rules 8
General maintenance indications 10
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How to use this manual
1 - How to use this manual

This manual has been prepared for technical personnel at Ducati Authorized Service Centres with the
aim of providing fundamental information on how to work in accordance with the modern concepts of
“best practice” and “safety in the workplace” during the maintenance, repair or replacement of original
components of the cycle parts and engine of this motorcycle.
All operations described in this manual must be carried out by experienced, skilled technicians, who
are required to follow the Manufacturer's instructions in full.
Some information has been intentionally omitted, since we consider that specialized technical
personnel should have a basic technical background. Additional information on how to install various
components is provided in the spare parts catalogue.
Important
This manual also describes the essential checks to be carried out prior to delivery of the motorcycle.
Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A. declines all liability for any technical errors or omissions in this manual and
reserves the right to make changes made necessary by the technical evolution of its products without
prior notice.
The information contained herein was correct at the time of going to press.
Important
Reproduction or disclosure of all or part of the contents of this manual is strictly forbidden. All rights on
this manual are reserved for Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A. Applications for authorization for reproduction
must be submitted in writing and must specify the reasons for such reproduction.
Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A
Layout of the manual

This manual is divided into sections (1), each identified by a letter.
Each section (1) includes several chapters (2), which are numbered consecutively.
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How to use this manual
The chapters (2) may be further subdivided into paragraphs (3).
The manual describes all repair operations starting from the fully assembled motorcycle.
The full procedure is described up to the point in which the motorcycle is restored to its fully
assembled starting condition.
Important
Some of the sections of this manual are not included, since the motorcycle in question is not equipped
with the relevant parts.
Important
The layout of the manual is designed in such a way as to be applicable to all the different models
manufactured by DUCATI MOTOR HOLDING.
To facilitate consultation of the manual, the table of contents is identical for all motorcycle models.

Symbols - Abbreviations - References
2 - Symbols - Abbreviations - References

To allow quick and easy consultation, this manual uses graphic symbols to highlight situations in which
maximum care is required, as well as practical advice or information. Pay attention to the meaning of the
symbols since they serve to avoid repeating technical concepts or safety warnings throughout the text. The
symbols should therefore be seen as an aid to memory. Please refer to this page whenever in doubt as to their
meaning.
The terms right-hand (RH) and left-hand (LH) are used with reference to the motorcycle's direction of
forward travel.
Warning
Failure to comply with these instructions may put you at risk, and lead to severe injury or even death.
Important
Failure to follow the instructions in text marked with this symbol can lead to serious damage to the motorcycle
and its components.
Notes
This symbol indicates additional useful information for the current operation.
Text references
(X)
References in bold type indicate a part that is not illustrated in the figures next to the text, but which can be
found in the exploded views at the beginning of each chapter.
(X)
References in non-bold type indicate a part that is illustrated in the figures alongside the text.
Product specifications
Symbols in the diagram show the type of threadlocker, sealant or lubricant to be used at the points indicated.
The table below shows the symbols used and the specifications of the various products.
Symbol Specifications Recommended product

Engine oil (for specifications, see Sect. C 2, Fuel, SHELL
lubricants and other fluids). Advance Ultra 4
DOT 4 special hydraulic brake fluid. SHELL

Advance Brake DOT 4
SAE 80-90 gear oil or special products for chains SHELL

with O-rings. Advance Chain or Advance Teflon
Chain

Anti-freeze (nitride, amine and phosphate free) 30 SHELL

to 40% solution in water. Advance coolant or Glycoshell
GREASE A Multipurpose, medium fibre, lithium grease. SHELL Alvania R3
GREASE B Molybdenum disulphide grease, high mechanical SHELL

stress and high temperature resistant. Retinax HDX2
GREASE C Bearing/joint grease for parts subject to prolonged SHELL

mechanical stress. Temperature range: -10 to 110 ° Retinax LX2
C.
GREASE D Protective grease, with anti-corrosive and SHELL
waterproofing properties. Retinax HD2
GREASE E PANKL grease - PLB 05.
GREASE F OPTIMOL grease - PASTE WHITE T.
LOCK 1 Low-strength threadlocker. Loctite 222
LOCK 2 Medium-strength threadlocker, compatible with oil. Loctite 243
LOCK 3 High-strength threadlocker for threaded parts. Loctite 270
LOCK 4 Flange sealant resistant to high mechanical stress Loctite 510

and solvents. Resists high temperatures (up to
200 °C) and pressures up to 350 bar; fills gaps up
to 0.4 mm.
LOCK 5 Permanent adhesive for smooth or threaded Loctite 128455
cylindrical fasteners on mechanical parts.
High resistance to mechanical stress and solvents.
Temperature range: -55 to 175 °C.
LOCK 6 Pipe sealant for pipes and medium to large Loctite 577
fasteners. For water and gases (except oxygen).
Maximum filling capacity: 0,40 mm diameter
clearance.

LOCK 7 Speed bonder for rubber and plastics with Loctite 480
elastomer charged ethylic base.
LOCK 8 High-strength retaining compound for threaded Loctite 601

parts, bearings, bushes, splines and keys.
Temperature range: -55 to 150 °C.
LOCK 9 Medium-strength threadlocker. Loctite 401
LOCK 10 Product for metal parts to seal and lock cylindrical Loctite 128443
freely sliding or threaded couplings. Resistant to
high mechanical stress and high temperature,
excellent resistance to solvents and chemical attack.
LOCK 11 Instant adhesive gel offering tensile / shear Loctite 454 gel
strength.
DUCATI liquid gasket. 942470014
Exhaust pipe paste. Self-sealing paste, hardens Holts Firegum

when heated; resists temperatures exceeding
1000 °C.
Spray used to protect electrical systems. Eliminates SHELL

moisture and condensation and provides excellent Advance Contact Cleaner
corrosion resistance. Water repellent.
Dry lubricant, polymerizing on contact with air Molycote D321R

Molycote M55 Plus

Hazardous Products - Warnings
3 - Hazardous Products - Warnings

General safety rules
Carbon monoxide
When a maintenance operation must be performed with the engine running, maker sure that the
working area is well-ventilated. Never run the engine in an enclosed space.
Warning
Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is a poisonous gas that can cause unconsciousness or
even death if inhaled.
Run the engine outdoors or, if working indoors, use an exhaust fume extraction system.
Fuel
Always make sure the working area is well ventilated. Keep any sources of ignition, such as cigarettes,
open flames or sparks, well away from working area and fuel storage area.
Warning
Petrol is highly flammable and can explode under certain conditions. Keep away from children.
Hot parts
Warning
The engine and exhaust parts become hot when the motorcycle engine is running and will stay hot for
some time after the engine has been stopped. Wear heat-resistant gloves before handling these
components or allow the engine and exhaust system to cool down before proceeding.
Warning
The exhaust system might be hot even after engine is switched off; take special care not to touch
exhaust system with any part of your body and do not park the motorcycle next to inflammable
material (wood, leaves etc.).
Used engine oil
Warning
Prolonged or repeated contact with used engine oil may cause skin cancer. If working with engine oil
on a daily basis, make it a rule to wash your hands thoroughly with soap immediately afterwards. Keep
away from children.
Brake pad dust

Never clean the brake assemblies using compressed air or a dry brush.

Warning
Inhalation of asbestos fibres is a proven cause of respiratory illness and cancer.
Brake fluid
Warning
Avoid spilling brake fluid onto plastic, rubber or painted parts of the motorcycle to avoid the risk of
damage. Protect these parts with a clean shop cloth before proceeding to service the motorcycle. Keep
away from children.
Coolant
Engine coolant contains ethylene glycol, which may ignite under particular conditions, producing
invisible flames. Although the flames from burning ethylene glycol are not visible, they are still capable
of causing severe burns.
Warning
Take care not to spill engine coolant on the exhaust system or engine parts. These parts may be hot
and ignite the coolant, which will subsequently burn with invisible flames.
Coolant (ethylene glycol) is an irritant and is poisonous when ingested. Keep away from children.
Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot. The coolant is under pressure and will cause
severe burns if it comes into contact with the skin.
The cooling fan operates automatically: keep hands well clear and make sure your clothing does not
snag on the fan.
Battery
Warning
The battery produces explosive gases; keep it away from any source of ignition such as sparks, flames
and cigarettes. When charging the battery, ensure that the working area is properly ventilated.
General maintenance indications
Useful tips
Ducati recommends that you follow the instructions below in order to prevent problems and obtain the
best end result:
When diagnosing faults, primary consideration should always be given to what the customer reports
- about motorcycle operation since this information can highlight anomalies; your questions to the
customer concerning symptoms of the fault should be aimed at clarifying the problem;
diagnose the problem systematically and accurately before proceeding further. This manual provides
- the theoretical background for troubleshooting; this basis must be combined with personal experience
and attendance at periodic training courses held by Ducati;
repair work should be planned carefully in advance to prevent any unnecessary downtime, for
-
example obtaining the required spare parts or preparing the necessary tools, etc.;
limit the number of operations needed to access the part to be repaired. Note that the disassembly
-
procedures in this manual describe the most efficient way to reach the part to be repaired.

General advice on repair work

Always use top quality tools. When lifting the motorcycle, only use devices that comply fully with the
-
relevant European directives.
When working on the motorcycle, always keep the tools within reach, ideally in the order required,
-
and never put them on the motorcycle or in hard-to-reach or inaccessible places.
- The workplace must be kept clean and tidy at all times.
- Always replace gaskets, seals and split pins with new parts.
When loosening or tightening nuts and bolts, always start with the largest or start from the centre;
-
tighten nuts and bolts to the specified torque working in a crosswise sequence.
- Always mark any parts and positions which might easily be confused at the time of reassembly.
- Use exclusively Ducati original replacement parts and the recommended brands of lubricants.
- Use special service tools where specified.
Ducati Technical Bulletins often contain updated versions of the service procedures described in this
-
manual. Check the latest Bulletins for details.

Information about the model

1 - Identification data 3
Identification data for the Superbike 1098 3
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Identification data
1 - Identification data
Identification data for the Superbike 1098
Each Ducati motorcycle has two identification numbers -the frame number and the engine number -
and an EC nameplate (A) (not present on the US version).
Notes
Please quote these numbers, which identify the motorcycle model, when ordering spare parts.
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Identification data
Data stamped on the frame

Europe version
1 Manufacturer: Ducati Motor Holding
2 Type, same on all 1098 models.
3 Variant
4 Version
5 Year of manufacture (7=2007)
6 Manufacturing facility
7 Progressive serial No.

Identification data
Data stamped on the frame

US version
2 Motorcycle type
3 Variant – Numeric or X (Check digit)
4 Model year (7=2007)
5 Manufacturing facility
6 Progressive serial No.
Data stamped on engine

Europe version
2 Engine type
3 Progressive production No.

Identification data
Data stamped on engine

US version
1 Engine type
2 Model year
3 Progressive production No.

Technical data
0Technical data
1.1 - Technical specifications 3
General 3
Colours 4
Transmission 4
Timing system/valves 5
Crankshaft 5
Cylinder/Piston 5
Gearbox 6
Cooling system 6
Front wheel 6
Front suspension (1098) 6
Front suspension (1098S) 7
Rear wheel 7
Rear suspension (1098) 7
Rear suspension (1098S) 7
Hydraulic brakes 8
Charging system/alternator 8
Injection - ignition system 8
Fuel system 9
Lights/instrument panel 9
1.2 - Dimensions 10
2 - Fuel, lubricants and other fluids 11
3 - Torque settings 12
Frame torque settings 12
Engine torque settings 17
4 - Service tools 20
Special tools for the engine 20
Service tools for the frame 26
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Technical specifications
1.1 - Technical specifications

General
Reference Technical specifications

Motorcycle dimensions Total length 2100 mm
Total width 758 mm
Total height 1110 mm
Wheelbase 1430 mm
Handlebar height 865 mm
Dry weight in riding order without fuel 188 kg (1098), 186 kg (1098S)
Dry weight without liquids and battery 173 kg (1098), 171 kg (1098S)
Weight fully laden No greater than 390 kg
Frame Type AL450 steel tube trellis frame
Subframe Type AL450 steel tube trellis frame
Steering head angle 24° 30'
Steering angle 28° 30' RH - 28° 30' LH
Steering damper Showa (1098)
Öhlins (1098S)
Front suspension (1098) SHOWA: upside-down hydraulic fork with
adjustable compression, rebound and spring
preload.
Fork leg dia. 43 mm, TiO treated
Front suspension (1098S) ÖHLINS: FG315 hydraulic upside-down
radially mounted fork with adjustable
compression, rebound and spring preload.
Fork leg dia. 43 mm, TiN treated.
Travel along leg axis: 127 mm (1098)
120 mm (1098S)
Rear suspension (1098) SHOWA: Progressive linkage with a rocker
arm connecting the frame and upper pivot
point of the shock absorber.
The shock absorber has adjustable rebound
and compression damping and spring
preload. At the lower pivot point it is
connected to the swingarm. The swingarm
hinges on a pivot shaft that passes through
the frame and engine.
Wheel travel: 127 mm.
Shock absorber travel: 59,5 mm.
Rear suspension (1098S) ÖHLINS: Progressive linkage with a rocker
arm connecting the frame and upper pivot
point of the shock absorber.
The shock absorber has adjustable rebound
and compression damping and spring
preload. At the lower pivot point it is
connected to the swingarm. The swingarm
hinges on a pivot shaft that passes through
the frame and engine.
Wheel travel: 127 mm.
Shock absorber travel: 59.5 mm.
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Front wheel Lightweight alloy, 5Y-spokes

Front wheel size MT 3.50x17"
Front tyre size 120/70 - ZR 17
Rear wheel Light alloy, five Y-spokes with cush drive
Rear wheel size MT 6.00x17"
Rear tyre size 190/55 - ZR 17
Type of tyre Radial tubeless tyres
Front brake Hydraulic with 2 calipers
Rear brake Hydraulic with 1 caliper
Engine Type Longitudinal 90º “L” twin cylinder, four-stroke
Bore 104 mm
Stroke 64.7 mm
Displacement 1099 cm³
Compression ratio 12.5 ± 0.5:1
Max power at crankshaft (95/1/EC) 113 kW (154 CV) at 9750 rpm
Max power at crankshaft on acceleration 117 kW (160 HP) at 9750 rpm
bench
Max torque at crankshaft (95/1/EC) 116 Nm (11.8 kgm) at 8000 rpm
Maximum crankshaft torque measured on 123 Nm (12.5 kgm) at 8000 rpm
acceleration bench
Idling speed 1300±50 rpm
Max. engine speed 10700 rpm
Timing system With toothed belt, double overhead
camshaft, 4 valves per cylinder and 8 rocker
arms
Lubrication system Forced lubrication by pump, with oil cooler
Oil pump type Gear pump
Cooling system Liquid cooling
Air filter Two filter units
Crankshaft type One-piece
Colours
Description Code no.

1098/1098S Ducati Anniversary Red F_473.101 (PPG);
Transparent; 228.880 (PPG)
Red frame with black wheels
Transmission

Clutch Dry multi-plate clutch
Clutch control Hydraulic
Gearbox 6 speed
Primary drive 32/59
Final drive 15/38
Gearbox type With constant mesh spur gears, operated by
a lever on the left side of the motorcycle

Transmission Gear ratios

1st 15/37
17/30
2nd
20/28
3rd 22/26
4th 23/24
5th 24/23
6th
Timing system/valves
Reference Adjusting clearance Checking clearance

Timing diagram With 1 mm valve clearance
Intake Opening 15° B.T.D.C.
Closing 58° A.B.D.C
Exhaust Opening 60° B.B.D.C.
Closing 20° A.T.D.C.
Intake valve diameter 42 mm
Exhaust valve diameter 34 mm
Valve lift With 0 mm valve clearance Intake 11.8 mm
Exhaust 10.6 mm
Opening rocker arm - intake 0,13÷0,18 mm 0.10 to 0.25 mm
Opening rocker arm - 0,13÷0,18 mm 0.13 to 0.18 mm
exhaust
Closing rocker arm - intake 0,05÷0,10 mm 0.05 to 0.10 mm
Closing rocker arm - 0.05 to 0.10 mm 0.05 to 0.25 mm
exhaust
Reference Adjusting clearance Reset value
(new belt) (used belt)
Cold belt tensioning DDS 110 ± 5 Hz (horizontal) 80 ± 5 Hz (horizontal)
110 ± 5 Hz (vertical) 80 ± 5 Hz (vertical)
Cold minimum limit value 70 Hz 70 Hz
Crankshaft
Reference Standard value Service limit

Crankshaft Ovality 0.005 mm
Taper 0.005 mm
Main bearing journal 0.01 mm on diameter
alignment
Cylinder/Piston

Cylinder barrel Max. bore ovality 0.03 mm
Max. bore taper 0.03 mm
Diameter
Section A 104.000 mm to 104.010 mm
Section B 104.010 mm to 104.020 mm
Section C 104.020 mm to 104.030 mm
Piston-to-bore clearance 0.085 to 0.105

Piston Piston outside diameter 100 mm 0÷0.01 mm

measured at 6.0 mm from
piston base
Diameter
Section A 103.905 mm to 103.915 mm
Section B 103.915 mm to 103.925 mm
Section C 103.925 mm to 103.935 mm
Connecting rod Connecting-rod big-end 45 mm
diameter
Crankshaft class Connecting rod class Bearings colour
Big-end bearing pairings A A Blue + Yellow
B A Yellow + Yellow
A B Blue + Blue
B B Blue + Yellow
Gudgeon pin–to-piston 0.010 to 0.018 mm 0.035 mm
clearance
Gudgeon pin-to-connecting 0.035 to 0.048 mm 0.065 mm
rod clearance
Engine cylinder compression 13 to 15 bar 11 bar (MIN.), difference
measured with DDS between the two cylinders:
instrument 2 bar (max.)
Gearbox

Gearbox shafts Endfloat 0.05 to 0.25 mm
Selector drum Endfloat 0,10÷0,40 mm
Gear selector fork Selector fork end thickness 3,90÷4,00 mm
Selector fork-to-gear 0.070 to 0.285 mm 0.4 mm
clearance
Cooling system

Type Loop water cooling with double-fan
curved radiator and mixing thermostat
Coolant capacity 2,7±0,5 litres
Front wheel

Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm
Tyre pressure (Cold) 2,1 bar -2.3 kg/cm2
Axle runout On 100 mm 0.2 mm
Wheel rim runout Radial 0.8 mm 2 mm
Axial 0.5 mm 2 mm
Front suspension (1098)

Type Showa: Hydraulic upside-down fork equipped with

external adjusters for adjustment of rebound and
compression damping and preload (for inner springs
of fork legs).
Fork Stanchion diameter: 43 mm
Travel along leg axis: 127 mm
Hydraulic damping standard setting. compression: 3/4 turn
Unscrew the adjuster from fully closed rebound: 12 clicks
position (counter clockwise)
Spring preload 18 mm (standard)
10 - 25 mm (adjustment range)
Oil charge per leg 439 cc
Front suspension (1098S)

Type Öhlins: FG315 hydraulic upside-down radially
mounted fork with external adjusters for adjustment
of rebound, compression, and preload (for inner
springs of fork legs).
Fork Stanchion diameter: 43 mm
Travel along leg axis: 120 mm.
Hydraulic damping standard setting. compression: 8 clicks
Unscrew the adjuster from fully closed rebound: 10 clicks
position (counter clockwise)
Spring preload 8 mm
Oil charge per leg 155 mm
Rear wheel

Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm
Tyre pressure (Cold) 2,2 bar -2.4 kg/cm2
Swingarm pivot shaft runout On 100 mm 0.2 mm
Wheel rim runout Radial 0.8 mm 2 mm
Axial 0.5 mm 2 mm
Chain Make DID
Type 525 HV 2
Dimensions 5/8" x 5/16"
No. of links 97+1 joining link
Rear suspension (1098)

Type Showa: progressive monoshock with
adjustable rebound, compression and spring
preload
Shock absorber Travel 59,5 mm
Standard setting: Compression: 2 turns
Rebound: 2 turns

Spring preload 20 mm
Wheel travel 127 mm
Rear suspension (1098S)

Type Öhlins: progressive monoshock with
adjustable rebound, compression and spring
preload
Shock absorber Travel 59,5 mm
Unscrew the adjuster from fully Compression: 10 clicks
closed position (clockwise): Rebound: 10 clicks
Spring preload 23 mm
Wheel travel 127 mm
Hydraulic brakes

FRONT
Brake disc Type Semi-floating drilled dual
disc
Thickness 5 ± 0,1 mm 4,5 mm (min.)
Braking surface material Steel
Flange material Aluminium
Disc diameter: 330 mm
Braking surface 51.756 mm2
Brake caliper Make Brembo
Type M4 - 34
Pad friction material TT2910
Brake master cylinder Type PR 18/19
REAR
Brake disc Type Fixed drilled disc
Thickness 4.5 ± 0.1 mm 4 mm (min.)
Material Steel
Diameter 245 mm
Braking surface 43.098 mm2
Brake caliper Make Brembo
Type P 34 C
Pad friction material FERIT I/D 450 FF.
Brake master cylinder Type PS11b
Charging system/alternator

Battery Voltage 12 V
Capacity 10 Ah
Type Sealed, maintenance free
Alternator Capacity 12 V -480 W

Injection - ignition system

Ignition Type Inductive electronic ignition
Starting Type Electric starter motor 12 V-700 W
Spark plugs Make and type NGK MAR10A - J
Electrode gap 0.6 to 0.7 mm
Fuel system Unleaded fuel 95-98 RON
Throttle body ø 60 mm
Injectors per cylinder: 1
Holes per injector: 12
Fuel system
Make Type
Electronic Control Unit Marelli 5AM2
Lights/instrument panel

Headlight Bulb type: 2 x H11 (12 V-5 W)
Side light Bulb type: 2 x H16W (12 V-5 W)
Turn indicators: Bulb type: Front: LED
Rear: R10W (12 V-10 W) orange
Tail light and brake light: LED
Number plate light Bulb type: W5W (12 V-5 W)
Fuses Regulator 30 A
Key to fusebox Key on 10 A
Lights 15 A
Device 15 A
Instrument panel 5A
Injection 20 A
Engine Electronic Control Unit 5A
Fans 7,5 A

Dimensions
1.2 - Dimensions
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Dimensions
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Fuel, lubricants and other fluids
2 - Fuel, lubricants and other fluids

Fuel, lubricants and other fluids Type Quantity
Fuel tank, including a reserve of 4 dm3 (litres) Unleaded fuel with 95 fuel octane rating (at least) 15,5 dm3
(litres).
Lubrication circuit SHELL Advance Ultra 4 3,7 dm3 (litres).
Front/rear brake and clutch circuits SHELL Advance Brake DOT 4 -
Protection for electrical contacts SHELL Advance Contact Cleaner -
Front fork for 1098 only SHELL Advance Fork 7.5 or DONAX TA 439 cc (per leg)
Front fork for 1098S only SHELL Advance Fork 7.5 or DONAX TA 155 mm (each leg)
oil level height
Cooling system SHELL Advance Coolant or Glyco SHELL 35-40% + water 2,3 dm3 (litres).
Important
Do not use additives in fuel or lubricants.
Engine oil
A good quality engine oil has special properties. Use only a highly detergent engine oil with certified SE, SF or
SG or higher service ratings as marked on the container.
Oil viscosity
SAE 10W-40
The other viscosity grades specified in the table can be used where the average ambient temperatures are
within the limits shown.
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Torque settings
3 - Torque settings
Frame torque settings
Part Thread (mm) Nm ±10% Tolerance Notes

Accessories and equipment
Reflector to bracket fastener 4x0.7 2.5
Sidestand
Nut securing sidestand pivot bolt 8x1.25 24.0 LOCK 10 (GREASE B
on bolt)
Bolt securing sidestand to crankcase 10x1.5 43.0 LOCK 5
Sidestand sensor bolt 6x1 10.0
Sidestand sensor cable clamp bolt 6x1 10.0
Chain-Front Sprocket
Front sprocket retaining nut 25x1.5 186* GREASE B
Front sprocket cover bolt 6x1 6.0
Lights and reflectors
Headlight support bolt 8x1.25 25.0 LOCK 2
Lower bolt securing headlight to support 6x1 10.0
Turn indicator retaining nut 10x1.25 5.0
Tail light retaining bolt 5x0.8 3.0
Number plate cover bolt 5x0.8 5.0
Number plate holder bolt 6x1 5.0
Number plate light bolt 4x0.7 2,5
Number plate holder plate bolt 6x1 10.0
Instruments
Silent-block retaining nut 5x0.8 3.0
Front fork
Front axle clamp bolt 8x1.25 19* GREASE B:
Sequence 1-2-1
Bottom yoke bolt 8x1.25 22* GREASE B:
Sequence 1-2-1
Top yoke bolt 8x1.25 22* GREASE B
Steering stem nut 35x1 30.0 GREASE B
Steering stem to bottom yoke 37x1 Fully seated LOCK 8
Steering stop bolt locknut 6x1 10,0 LOCK 2 (on nut
thread only)
Steering damper eye bolt 6x1 8,0
Steering damper clamp bolt 6x1 8,0 LOCK 2
Bolt securing steering damper to top yoke 6x1 8,0 LOCK 1
Electrical/electronic system
Bolt securing ECU to battery support 6x1 10,0
Lights relay plate retaining bolt 5 2,5
Bolt securing fusebox to frame 6x1 10,0
Contactor cable retaining nut 6x1 5,0
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Torque settings
Bolt securing horn to frame 8x1.25 22,0

Voltage regulator retaining bolt 6x1 10,0
Lambda sensor 18x1.5 45,0
Battery support bolt 6x1 10,0
Battery cover retaining bolt 6x1 8,0
Speed sensor retaining bolt 6x1 10,0
Rear brake switch on master cylinder mounting bracket 8x1 5,0
Front brake
Front brake caliper retaining bolt 10x1.5 43* GREASE B
Brake bleed valve 6x1 10,0
Front/rear brake hose fitting 10x1 20,0
Bolt securing brake master cylinder to handlebar 6x1 10,0 Sequence: 1-2-1
Front brake hose clamp retaining bolt 5x0.8 0,8
Rear swingarm
Swingarm pivot bolt nut 15x1.25 72*
Rear brake caliper plate centring pin 12x1.25 33* LOCK 8
Bolt securing chain sliders to swingarm 6x1 8,0
Rear wheel hub retaining bolt 12x1.25 33* GREASE B:
sequence 1-2-1
Rear brake
Rear brake master cylinder plate bolt 10x1.5 43,0 LOCK 5
Rear brake caliper bolt 8x1.25 25* GREASE B
Rear brake master cylinder bolt 6x1 10,0
Rear brake reservoir retaining bolt 6x1 2,0
Rear brake linkage locknut 6x1 7,5
Handlebars - Clutch control
Handlebar hose clamp retaining bolt 6x1 8,0
Clamp bolt securing handlebar to fork leg 8x1.25 25*
Throttle twistgrip housing bolt 6x1 10,0
Bolt securing clutch master cylinder clamp to handlebar 6x1 10,0
Clutch hose connector 10x1 20,0
Clutch piston retaining bolt 6x1 10,0
Rear shock absorber
Nut securing rear suspension rocker arm pivot bolt 10x1.25 42* GREASE B
Bolt securing shock absorber to rocker arm 10x1.25 42* GREASE B
Bolt securing tie-rod to rocker arm 10x1.25 42* GREASE B
Bolt securing shock absorber and tie-rod to swingarm 10x1.25 42* GREASE B
Front mudguard
Front mudguard fastener 6x1 10,0 LOCK 1
Liquid Cooling
Radiator pack retaining bolt 6x1 10,0
Radiator orientation bolt 6x1 10,0
Coolant hose guide fastener ... 2,5
Coolant hose guide fastener ... 2,5
Coolant (bleed) hose guide clamp on horizontal cylinder ... 1,0

Torque settings
Radiator hose to expansion tank fastener ... 1,0

Coolant drain plug on pump cover 10x1 18,0
Expansion tank to bracket fastener 6x1 3,0
Bolt securing expansion tank bracket to cylinder head 6x1 10,0
Radiator-expansion tank and drainage hose guide ... 1,0
clamp
Footrests and levers
Bolt securing footrest to frame 8x1.25 24,0 LOCK 2
Bolt securing heel plate to footrest bracket 5x0.8 5,0 LOCK 2
Gearchange lever tie-rod locknut 6x1 10,0
Gearchange lever clamp retaining bolt 6x1 10,0 LOCK 1
Gearchange rod to lever retaining nut 6x1 10,0
Brake/gearchange lever pivot bolt 8x1.25 23,0 LOCK 2
Locknut for rear brake pedal adjuster screw 6x1 2,5
Rear brake linkage to brake lever pivot bolt 6x1 5,0
Front wheel
Front wheel axle nut 25x1.25 63* Shell Retinax HDX2
(apply to bolt thread)
Rear wheel
Rear wheel cush drive retaining nut 10x1 48,0 LOCK 2
Rear wheel pack retaining nut (both sides) 48x1.5 230* GREASE B
Rear wheel drive pin retaining bolt 8x1 25*
Fuel tank
Fuel tank centring plates retaining bolt 6x1 6,0 LOCK 2
Bolt securing flange to fuel tank 5x0.8 6,0 LOCK 2
Bolt securing deformation bracket to subframe 6x1 10,0
Unions for fuel tank breather and drain hoses 7x1 2,0
Bolt securing fuel tank to deformation bracket 8x1.25 22,0
Bolt securing side panel brackets to fuel tank 5x0.8 2,5
Fuel hose containment plate fastener 5x0.8 2,5
Bolt securing fuel cap to fuel tank flange 5x0.8 5,0
Exhaust
Nut securing manifold to cylinder head 6x1 10,0
Vertical manifold heat shield retaining nut 6x1 10,0
CO plug 10x1.25 25,0
Nut securing exhaust to frame 6x1 10,0
Nut securing silencer support/number plate holder to 6x1 8,0
frame
Bolt securing silencers to support 8x1.25 20,0
Silencer rear retaining nut 5x0.8 4,0
Nut securing Bowden cables to exhaust valve 5x0.8 6,0
Exhaust valve actuator retaining bolt 6x1 10,0
Rider heat shield retaining bolt 5x0.8 5,0
Seat
Bolt securing rider’s seat to frame 5x0.8 5,0
Nut securing hooks to pillion seat 6x1 10,0

Torque settings
Frame
Nut securing frame pack/engine 12x1.25 60* GREASE B
Nut securing subframe to frame 8x1.25 25*
Ignition switch retaining bolt 6x1 10,0 Solid threadlocker on
bolt
Ignition switch cover retaining nut 6x1 10,0
Nut securing lock cable end fitting to seat cowling 22x1.5 1,0 LOCK 3
Bolt securing seat lock latch to frame 6x1 5,0
Oil cooler
Oil cooler nipple on crankcase 14x1.5 25,0 LOCK 1
Cooler oil hose union on crankcase 16x1.5 25* Lubricate with engine
oil
Oil hose union on oil cooler 16x1.5 18* Lubricate with engine
oil
Oil hose containment plate retaining bolt 6x1 10,0
Bolt securing oil cooler bracket to cylinder head 6x1 10,0
Bolt securing oil cooler pack to bracket 6x1 10,0
Air intake - oil breather
Bolt securing intake funnels to base of airbox 5x0.8 5,0
Bolt securing throttle cable guide to airbox 4x0.7 4,0 LOCK 1
Bolt securing air ducts to airbox 6x1 5,0
Bolt securing air ducts to headlight 6x1 4,0
Clamp securing blow-by hose to crankcase … 2,5
Fuel system - EVAP canister
Clamp securing throttle body to intake manifold … 2,5
Bolt securing intake funnels to throttle body 5x0.8 2,5 LOCK 2
Bolt securing fuel hose guide to airbox 4x0.7 2,5 LOCK 2
Bolt securing fuel hose guide to base of airbox 5x0.8 4,0
Fairings
Bolt securing windshield to headlight shell 4x0.7 1,0
Upper bolt securing headlight shell to support 6x1 5,0
Lower bolt securing headlight shell to support 6x1 5,0
Bolt securing upper fairing panels to headlight shell 5x0.8 1,0
Bolt securing right-hand fairing panel 5x0.8 1,0
Bolt securing left-hand fairing panel 5x0.8 1,0
Bolt securing left-hand fairing panel to frame 5x0.8 2,5
Bolt securing right-hand fairing panel to frame 5x0.8 2,5
Lower bolt securing RH and LH fairing panels 5x0.8 2,5
Bolt securing shield to radiator 5x0.8 2,5
Bolt securing splashguard to headlight support 5x0.8 1,0
Bolt securing side panels to fairing panels 5x0.8 1,0
Bolt securing air duct cover to air duct 5x0.8 1,0
Bolt securing air duct cover to frame/headlight shell 5x0.8 2,5
Front lower bolt securing fairing panels to frame 5x0.8 2,5
Rear lower bolt securing fairing panels to frame 5x0.8 2,5
Bolt securing side panels to fuel tank/frame 5x0.8 2,5

Torque settings
Bolt securing side panels to seat cowling 5x0.8 1,0

Bolt securing side panels to heat shield 5x0.8 1,0
Front bolt securing seat cowling/side panels to frame 5x0.8 2,5
Intermediate bolt securing seat cowling to frame 5x0.8 2,5
Front bolt securing seat cowling heat shield to frame 5x0.8 2,5
Bolt securing fairing bracket to engine 6x1 10,0
Bolt securing fairing bracket to engine 10x1.5 20,0
* dynamic safety-critical point; tightening torque must be within Nm ± 5%.
Notes
For product specifications and symbols, see paragraph “Product specifications” (Sect. A 2).
Engine torque settings
Part Thread (mm) Nm Min. Max. Notes

Idler and tensioner pulley mounting studs M20x1 50 45 55 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Camshaft pulley retaining nut M17x1 71 64 78 GREASE A
Rocker arm shaft covers M12x1.25 15 14 16 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Coolant temperature sensor on coolant outlet M12x1.5 23 20 26 LOCK 4 – Restrain the
union insert when tightening
Cylinder head nut: M10x1.5 Apply GREASE C to the
Stage 1 20 underside of the nut
Stage 2 40 38 42 and the thread of the
Stage 3 60 57 63 stud
Cam cap bolt: M8x1.25 Engine oil
Stage 1 10 9 11
Stage 2 22,5 21 25
Coil retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11
Pulley flange retaining bolts M6x1 10 9 11
Rocker cover bolt M6x1 10 9 11
Exhaust manifold stud M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Vacuum gauge connection screw on cylinder M6x1 5 4 6 LOCK 2 or TB1324
head
Evaporative emissions canister fitting on cylinder M6x1 5 4 6 LOCK 2 or TB1324
head
Air breather fitting on horizontal cylinder head M6x1 5 4 6 LOCK 2
Air breather blanking screw on vertical M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 6
cylinder head
Intake manifold bolt M6x1 10 9 11
Bolts securing coolant unions to cylinder head M5x1 8 7 9 pre-applied Tecnologic
150 threadlocker
Oil cartridge M16x1.5 11 10 12 Engine oil on gasket
Oil cartridge nipple M16x1.5 42 38 46 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Oil pick-up pipe plug M14x1.5 24 21 27 LOCK 5 or TB1375B
Oil drain plug M12x1.5 20 18 22
Clutch cover oilway blanking plug M10x1.5 15 13 17 LOCK 5
Neutral sensor M10x1.25 10 9 11

Torque settings
Oil pump adapter bolt M10x1 LOCK 5 or TB1375B

Clutch cover inner oilway screw M10x1.5 15 13 17 LOCK 5
Cylinder head/barrel stud M10x1.5 25 23 26 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Hor. cylinder cover + swingarm attachment M8x1.25
bolt: 19 22 28
Stage 1 25 22 28
Stage 2
Vertical cylinder cover bolt: M8x1.25
Stage 1 19 22 28
Stage 2 25 22 28
Gear stop lever bolt M8x1.25 18 16 20 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Blow-by valve bolt M6x1 10 9 11
Chain side secondary bearing retaining bolt M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2
Clutch side primary bearing retaining bolt M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Crankcase screw – idler area M6x1 10 9 11
Outer crankcase screw M6x1 9 8,5 9,5
Oil pick-up gauze filter bolt M6x1 14 13 15
Left-hand side crankcase cover screw M6x1 10 9 11
Bosch sensor bolt M6x1 10 9 11
Right-hand side crankcase cover screw M6x1 9 8,5 9,5
Chain cover oil circuit blanking screw M6x1 5 4 6 LOCK 5
Under-piston oil jet retaining screw M5x0.8 8 7 9 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Oil cooler nipple M14x1.5 27 24 30 LOCK 5 or TB1375B
Vertical cylinder cover bolt: M8x1.25
Stage 1 19 22 28
Stage 2 25 22 28
Crankcase hollow screw M8x1.25 20 18 22
Left-hand side crankcase cover screw M6x1 10 9 11
Drylock left-hand side crankcase cover screw M6x1 10 9 11 Pre-applied Loctite 516
Starter motor mounting bolt M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Starter motor rear bolt M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Idler gear shaft retaining bolt M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Front sprocket retaining nut M24x1 190 171 209 GREASE B
Flywheel retaining nut M24x1 330 313 346 LOCK 5
Connecting rod cap bolts: M10x1 Apply GREASE B to
Stage 1 35 thread
Pause for 2 sec., then back off through 360°
Stage 1 20
Stage 2 35
Tighten down to 65°±1°
Torque check 70÷103
Crankshaft grub screw M8x1.25 13 11 15 TB 1375B
Drilled crankshaft grub screw M8x1.25 13 11 15 TB 1375B
Selector drum locating screw M16x1.5 30 27 33
Gear stop lever screw M8x1.25 18 16 20 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Selector claw bolt M8x1.25 25 22 28
Selector claw locator nut M6x1 10 9 11

Torque settings
Selector claw bolt M6x1 9 8,5 9,5 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Idler and tensioner pulley bolts M20x1 50 45 55 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Camshaft pulley retaining nut M15x1 71 64 78 GREASE A
Timing belt driveshaft gear nut M14x1 55 50 60 GREASE A
Idler and tensioner pulley nut M8x1.25 25 22 28 GREASE A
Timing belt cover screw M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Self-tapping screw for timing belt cover filter M3.5
Dry clutch centre nut M25x1 250 236 264 LOCK 5
Oil filler plug M22x1.5 5 5 6
Wet clutch centre nut M20x1 120 115 125 GREASE B
Oil temperature sensor M12x1.5 18 16 19 LOCK 4
Oilway blanking plug M10x1 20 18 22 LOCK 5
Dry clutch drum bolts M8x1.25 35 33 37 LOCK 4
Clutch spring bolt M5x0.8 5 5 7
Coolant inlet union M30x1.5 25 23 27 LOCK 5
Coolant outlet union M22x1.5 25 23 27 LOCK 5
Pick-up sensor inspection screw M12x1 15 13 17 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Water pump cover plug M10x1 20 18 22
Spark plug M10x1 12 11 13
Coolant pump bearing stop screw M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Stator wiring clamp bracket bolt M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Water pump cover plug M6x1 10 9 11
Left-hand crankcase cover screw M6x1 10 9 11
Inspection cover screw M6x1 4,5 4,5 6
Alternator rotor/flywheel bolt M6x1 13 11 15 LOCK 2 or TB1324
By-pass pump cap M15x1 25 22 28 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Oil pump retaining bolt M6x1 10 9 11
Oil pump retaining bolt M8x1.25 26 23 29
Oil pump retaining bolt M6x1 10 9 11
Coolant outlet union M22x1.5 25 23 27 LOCK 5
Coolant circuit hose clamps 2,5 2 3
* dynamic safety-critical point; tightening torque must be within Nm ± 5%.
Notes
For product specifications and symbols, see paragraph “Product specifications” (Sect. A 2).

Service tools
4 - Service tools
Spare parts catalogue
1098 WORKSHOP SPECIAL TOOLS

1098S WORKSHOP SPECIAL TOOLS
Special tools for the engine
Part No. Designation
88713.2011 Tool to lock crankshaft at Top Dead Centre
88713.2676 Wrench for tightening cylinder head nuts
88713.2103 Stand for cylinder head assembly
88765.1523 Timing check tool

Service tools
Wrench for tightening timing belt tensioner pulley

88713.1821
shafts
88713.2861 Camshaft oil seal installer
88713.2060 Gearbox output shaft oil seal installer
88713.1806 Tool for tightening Z=20 camshaft pulley
88713.2069 Rocker spring tensioning kit

Service tools
DDS (Ducati Diagnosis System) + cylinder

97900.0215
negative pressure measuring kit
88765.1524 Timing belt pulley timing tools
88765.1518 Valve lift gauge
88713.2878 Fork-type feeler gauge 0.1 mm, 0.2 mm, 0.3 mm
88713.2874 Alternator holding tool for tightening nut

Service tools
88713.1920 Tool for installing O-rings on crankcase studs
88713.2827 Plate for gear selector fork positioning
88713.2442 Tool for installing valve guide seals
88713.1749 Puller for drive pulley and cover
88713.1832 Engine repair bench

Service tools
88713.2133 Clutch centre wrench
88700.5665 Clutch cover assembly tool
88713.1886 Engine cover sheet
88713.1010 Exhaust gases pick-up connector
88713.1805 Tool for tightening timing belt driveshaft pulley
88765.1188 Top Dead Centre test gauge

Service tools
88713.2102 Wrench for tightening primary sprocket ringnut
88713.0869 Water pump front seal installer
Installation tool for counter plate for water pump

88713.0870
front seal
88700.5749 Crankcase assembly cap
88713.2877 Sparkplug wrench
88713.2842 Inlet/exhaust valve guide installer

Service tools
88713.2846 Exhaust valve seat installer
88713.2847 Inlet valve seat installer
88713.2870 Connecting rod guide tool
88713.2834 Punch and sleeve for installing camshaft circlip
88713.2832 Timing belt tensioner pulley wrench

Service tools for the frame

Service tools
Part No. Designation
88713.1072 Drift for installing half bearing in bottom yoke
88713.1213 Chain assembly tool
8000.70139 Front wheel axle wrench
88713.1040 Engine/frame support
88713.1058 Wrench for steering stem nut

Service tools
88713.1062 Tool for installing steering head bearings
88713.1071 Drift to drive rocker arm needle rollers
88713.1073 Rear wheel balancing tool
88713.1038 Wrench for adjustment of the eccentric hub
88713.1096 Tool for overhauling SHOWA forks / fitting oil seals
677.4.003.1A Chain joining link

Service tools
88713.1074 Swingarm pivot bolt removal tool
88713.0957 SHOWA fork spacer holder
88713.1057 Steering damper bearing installer
88713.1077 Seat lock nut wrench
88713.1068 Swingarm roller bearing installer
88713.2409 Swingarm bearing installer

Service tools
887132856 Rod guide tool
887132857 Sliding bush removal tool
887132858 Sliding bush installer
887132855 Bush support rod
887132854 Fork plug installation/removal bush

Use and maintenance

1 - Preliminary checks 3
Running-in precautions 3
Pre-ride checks 4
2 - Starting - Engine warmup 5

Starting the engine 5
3 - Routine maintenance table 6

4 - Maintenance operations 9
Checking the engine oil level 9
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge 10
Checking valve clearances 13
Adjusting the valve clearances 14
Checking the coolant level 15
Changing the coolant 16
Changing and cleaning the air filters 17
Changing the brake fluid 19
Draining the brake circuit 22
Fill the brake system with fluid 24
Changing the clutch fluid 27
Draining the clutch hydraulic circuit 28
Filling the clutch circuit 30
Adjusting the chain tension 33
Checking brake pad wear and changing brake pads 35
Adjusting the clutch lever and front brake lever 40
Adjusting the position of the gearchange and rear brake pedals 41
Adjusting the front fork 42
Adjusting the rear shock absorber 43
Adjusting the rear ride height 45
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Use and maintenance
Description of the Ducati Diagnostic System instrument 48

Tester power supply 50
DDS tester 53
Checking and adjusting timing belt tension 54
Resetting the throttle position sensor (TPS) 58
Adjusting the idle speed 62
Checking the engine oil pressure 67
Cylinder compression test 72
Fuel pressure test 75
Immobilizer override procedure 78
Guided diagnosis 82
Testing the battery charging system 85
Deactivating the “service” indication on the instrument panel 88
Icons table 91
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Preliminary checks
1 - Preliminary checks
Running-in precautions
Maximum engine speed

Rpm limits to be observed during the running-in period and in normal use:
1 Up to 1000 km;
2 From 1000 to 2500 km;
Maximum engine speed up to 1000 km

During the first 1000 km keep an eye on the rev counter. The indicator must not exceed 5500-
6000 rpm. During the first hours of riding, it is advisable to continuously vary the load on the engine
and the rpm, though still keeping within the above limits.
For this reason, roads with numerous bends and hilly areas are ideal for running in the engine, brakes
and suspension. For the first 100 km, use the brakes gently. Do not brake violently or keep brake
applied for too long. This will enable a correct break-in of friction material on brake pads against brake
discs. To allow all the mechanical moving parts of the motorcycle to adapt to one another and above
all to avoid adversely affecting the life of basic engine parts, it is advisable to avoid harsh acceleration
and not to run the engine at high rpm for too long, especially uphill. It is also advisable to check the
drive chain frequently and ensure that it is lubricated as required.
Maximum engine speed from 1000 to 2500 km

You may now ask more from the engine, but be careful never to exceed 7000 rpm for the first
2500 km of riding. Keeping strictly to these recommendations will extend the life of your engine and
reduce the likelihood of overhauls or tune-ups.
Important
Throughout the running-in period, be careful to stick to the recommended maintenance schedule and
periodic service intervals indicated in the warranty booklet. Failure to follow these instructions releases
Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A. from any liability whatsoever for any engine damage or shorter engine life.
Pre-ride checks
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Preliminary checks
Warning
Failure to carry out these checks before riding may result in damage to the motorcycle and serious
injury to the rider.
Before starting, check the following points:
Fuel level in the tank

Check the fuel level in the tank. Fill the tank if needed (Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids).
Engine oil level

Check the oil level in the sump through the sight glass. Top up with recommended oil if necessary
(Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids).
Brake and clutch fluid

Check the fluid levels in the respective reservoirs.
Coolant
Check coolant level in the expansion reservoir. Top up if necessary (Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and
other fluids).
Tyres
Check tyre pressure and condition (Sect. C 1.1, Front wheel/Rear wheel).
Controls
Operate the brake, clutch, throttle and gear change controls (levers, pedals and twistgrip) to check
that they function correctly.
Lights and indicators

Make sure the lights, indicators and horn work properly. Replace any burnt-out bulbs with new bulbs
having the same rating (Sect. C 1.1, Lights/instrument panel).
Key locks
Check that the fuel filler cap and the seat are locked.
Sidestand
Make sure the sidestand operates smoothly (Sect. P 6, Protection and safety devices) and is in the
correct position (Sect. H 5, Sidestands).

Starting - Engine warmup
2 - Starting - Engine warmup

Starting the engine
This motorcycle is equipped with an automatic starter (stepper motor). This allows automation of the
engine warmup procedure.
For information on the operation of the stepper motor, see Sect. M 3, Stepper motor).
Turn the ignition switch to ON. Make sure both the green light and the red light on the instrument
panel come on (Sect. P 7, Instrument panel).
Allow the engine to start on its own, without turning the throttle twistgrip.
Important
The oil pressure warning light should go out a few seconds after the engine has started. If the light
stays on, stop the engine and check the oil level (Sect. P 7, Instrument panel).
Never start the engine when the oil pressure is too low.
Notes
This model is equipped with servo-assisted engine starting; to achieve servo-assisted starting, press
button (1) and then release it immediately. When you press button (1) the starter motor runs
automatically for a period of time that varies according to the engine temperature.
The system disengages the starter motor as soon as the engine starts. If the engine fails to start, wait
at least 2 seconds before pressing button (1) again.

Starting - Engine warmup
Important
Do not run the engine at high speed when cold. Allow some time for the oil to warm up and reach all
points that need lubricating.
Warning
The engine can be started with the sidestand down and the gearbox in neutral. When starting the
engine with a gear engaged, pull in the clutch lever (in this case the sidestand must be in the raised
position).
1

Routine maintenance table
3 - Routine maintenance table

Programmed maintenance plan: operations to be carried out by the dealer
List of operations and frequency km x1000 1 12 24 36 48 60

(distance or time interval *) miles x1000 0,6 7,5 15 22,5 30 37,5
Months 6 12 24 36 48 60
Change the engine oil • • • • • •
Change the engine oil filter • • • • • •
Clean the engine oil pick-up filter •
Check the engine oil pressure • •
Check and/or adjust the valve clearances (1) • • • • •
Check the tension of the timing belts (1) • • •
Renew the timing belts • •
Check and clean the spark plugs. Renew if necessary • •
Check and clean the air filter (1) • • •
Change the air filter • •
Check throttle body synchronisation and idle speed setting (1) • • • • •
Check the brake and clutch fluid levels • • • • • •
Change the clutch and brake fluid •
Check and adjust the brake and clutch control cables • • • • •
Check/lubricate the throttle/cold start cable • • • • •
Check tyre pressure and wear • • • • • •
Check the brake pads. Renew if necessary • • • • • •
Check the steering head bearings • •
Check the drive chain tension, alignment and lubrication • • • • • •
Check the clutch disc pack. Renew if necessary (1) • • • • •
Checking the coolant level • • • • •
Change the coolant •
Check operation of electric fans and sealing of coolant circuit • • • • •
Check the rear wheel cush drive • •
Check the wheel hub bearings • •
Check the indicators and lighting • • • • •
Check tightness of nuts and bolts securing the engine to the frame • • • • •
Check the sidestand • • • • •
Check tightness of the front wheel axle nut • • • • •
Check tightness of the rear wheel axle nut • • • • •
Check the external fuel hoses • • • • •
Change the front fork oil •
Check the forks and rear shock absorber for oil leaks • • • • •
Check the front sprocket retaining bolts • • • • •
General lubrication and greasing • • • • •
Check and recharge the battery • • • • •
Road test the motorcycle • • • • • •
General cleaning • • • • •
* Service operation to be carried out in accordance with the specified distance or time intervals (km, miles or

Routine maintenance table
months), whichever occurs first.

(1) Operation to be carried out only at the specified distance intervals.
Programmed maintenance plan: operations to be carried out by the dealer
List of operations and frequency km x1000 1

(distance or time interval *) miles x1000 0,6
Months 6
Check the engine oil level •
Check the brake and clutch fluid levels •
Check tyre pressure and wear •
Check the drive chain tension and lubrication •
Check the brake pads. If necessary, contact your dealer to renew pads •
* Service operation to be carried out in accordance with the specified distance or time intervals (km, miles or
months), whichever occurs first.

Maintenance operations
4 - Maintenance operations
Checking the engine oil level
Check the engine oil level in the sight glass (1) on the right-hand side of the oil sump.
Stop the engine and allow a few minutes for the oil to settle to a steady level.
Check the level with the motorcycle perfectly vertical and with the engine warm (but not running).
The oil must be between the MIN and MAX marks. If the oil level is low, remove the right-hand side
fairing (Sect. E 2, Removal of the side fairings) and top up.
Remove the filler cap (2) and top up with the recommended oil.
Refit the filler cap and all previously removed parts.
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge
Notes
Change the oil when the engine is warm (but with the engine stopped). In these conditions the oil is
more fluid and will drain more rapidly and completely.
Remove the fairings (Sect. E 2, Removal of the side fairings).

Remove the drain plug (3) with seal (A) from the oil sump and allow the oil to drain off.
Warning
Dispose of oil and/or filter cartridges in compliance with environmental protection regulations.
Remove any metallic deposits from the end of the magnetic drain plug (3). Refit the drain plug
complete with gasket (A) to the sump.

Tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Remove the filter cartridge (4) from the sump using a standard filter wrench.
Important
Dispose of the used cartridge, do not attempt to reutilise it.
Lubricate the rubber seal of the new filter (4) with engine oil before installing it.
Screw the cartridge into place and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Notes
It is advisable to fill the filter cartridge (4) with engine oil before installing it: this enables the
recommended oil level to be maintained without topping up.
Every two oil changes, clean the oil pickup gauze filter.
Undo the four bolts (5) securing the outer cap (6) and plug.
Take care not to damage the gasket (7).

Take out the filter element (8), check the O-rings (9) and replace if necessary.
Clean the filter with petrol and compressed air. Take care not to damage the gauze.
Refit the gauze filter (8), gasket (7) and O-ring (9) to the cap (6).
Remove the filler cap (2) and fill with oil of the recommended type (Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and
other fluids) up to the MAX line in the sight glass.
Refit the filler cap (2). Run the engine at idle speed for a few minutes.

Check for oil leaks. Check that the oil pressure light on the instrument panel switches off a few
seconds after the engine starts. If not, switch off the engine and trace the fault.
After a few minutes, check the oil level again and top up to the MAX level line, if necessary.
Refit all parts removed.
Checking valve clearances

Proceed as described in Sect. N 4.1, Checking and adjusting the valve clearances.
With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between rocker arm (A) and the lowest side of
the cam (B) to measure the clearance.
The clearances must be within the specified limits:
Opening rocker arm

Intake:
Operation 0,13÷0,18 mm
Checking clearance 0,10÷0,25 mm
Exhaust:

With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between closing rocker arm (C) and the highest
side of the cam (D) to measure the clearance.
Closing rocker arm

Intake:
Exhaust:
If the clearances measured are outside the specified limits, measure the value and adjust as required (Sect. N 4.1,
Checking and adjusting the valve clearances).

Adjusting the valve clearances

Proceed as described in Sect. N 4.1, Checking and adjusting the valve clearances.
Checking the coolant level

At the intervals specified in the “Routine maintenance table” chart (Sect. D 3), check the coolant level
in the expansion tank, located on the right-hand side of the motorcycle.
The coolant level must be between the MAX and MIN marks on the tank.
If the level is low, top up with the recommended coolant.
Remove the right-hand side fairing (Sect. E 2, Removal of the side fairings).
Remove the filler cap (1) and top up to the specified level.
Refit the cap (1) and replace any parts removed.
For optimal operating conditions (coolant mixture starting to freeze at -20 °C), the recommended liquid
antifreeze should be mixed with water in the following percentages:
ANTIFREEZE: 35 to 40% of volume;
WATER: 65 to 60% of volume.
Important
Very hard water rich in mineral salts can damage the engine.
Increase the amount of coolant to up to 55% volume in the case of very cold climates.

Important
Solutions with less than 30% of coolant will not provide sufficient protection against corrosion.
Changing the coolant
Warning
This operation must only be carried out when the engine is cold. Attempting to change the coolant with
the engine hot could lead to burns from hot coolant or scalding steam.
Remove the right-hand fairing (Sect. E 2, Removal of the side fairings).

Remove the expansion tank filler cap (1).
Place a container under the engine and place the motorcycle on its sidestand.
Unscrew the plug from the drain hole (2) located on the pump cover.
Allow the coolant to drain off completely.
Refit the cap to the drain hole (2) along with a new gasket.
Fill the circuit by removing the cap (1) and pouring new coolant of the recommended type into the
expansion tank.
Allow several minutes for the coolant to fill all internal passages.
Completely fill the expansion tank and replace the cap (1).
Start the engine and allow the coolant to reach 110 °C; run the engine for around 10 minutes.

Stop the engine and allow it to cool down so that all the air is expelled from the cooling circuit.
Warning
Keep your hands, clothing and tools well clear of the radiator fan at all times; this fan starts
automatically without warning and could cause serious injury or damage.
Important
Check the cooling circuit for possible leaks.
Top up the coolant through the expansion tank filler to bring the level up to the MAX mark.
Refit and tighten the expansion tank cap (1) and refit all parts previously removed.
Changing and cleaning the air filters

The air filter must be renewed at the intervals indicated in the “Routine maintenance table” (Sect. D 3).
Operation Section reference

Remove the side fairings E 2, Removal of the side fairings
Remove the air duct covers and the E 1, Removal of the headlight shell
headlight shell
Notes
The images show the motorcycle without the fuel tank: the operation described is possible also with
the fuel tank fitted.
Unscrew the bolt (1) securing the air intake duct (2) to the headlight support and the bolts (3)
securing it to the filter housing.
Remove the air intake duct (2).

Extract the filter cartridges (4) from the housings in the airbox.
The filter cartridge can be cleaned with a jet of compressed air or renewed as necessary.
Important
A clogged air filter will reduce air intake and engine power, increase fuel consumption and cause a
build up of deposits on the spark plugs. Do not use the motorcycle without a filter, as impurities in the
air could get into the engine and cause damage.
Reinstall the filter cartridge in its seat in the filter housing and refit all removed parts and structures.
Important
If the motorcycle is used in very damp or dusty conditions, the air filter cartridge must be changed
more frequently.
Check the air filter (5) located in the horizontal cylinder timing belt cover (6): to remove the filter,
remove the cover (Sect. N 4.2, Removal of the timing belt covers) and remove the bolts (7).
After inspection, refit the filter (5), tighten the bolts (7) and replace the horizontal cylinder timing belt
cover (6) (Sect. N 4.2, Removal of the timing belt covers).

Changing the brake fluid
Warning
Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. In addition, it is very harmful in contact
with the skin or with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact wash the affected area with abundant
running water.
Changing the fluid in the front brake circuit

Unscrew the screws (2) and remove the cap (1) and membrane from the front brake fluid reservoir.
Siphon the brake fluid from the reservoir (A).
Fill the reservoir (A) with new clutch fluid up to the MAX mark.
Operate the clutch lever two or three times until the circuit is pressurized.
Hold the lever pulled in towards the handgrip.

Attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (3) and insert the other end of the
tubing in a container placed on the floor.
Loosen the bleed valve (3) to allow fluid to escape.
Warning
During the filling operation, always keep the fluid level above the MIN mark to prevent the formation
of air bubbles in the circuit.
Allow the fluid to flow from the bleed valve (3) until a different colour liquid appears.
Tighten the bleed valve (3) and restore the correct fluid level in the reservoir.
Notes
Repeat this operation on each brake caliper.
Refit the cap (1), carrying out the removal operations in reverse order.

Changing the rear brake circuit fluid

Unscrew the cap (4) of the rear brake fluid reservoir (B).
Siphon the brake fluid from the reservoir (B).
Fill the reservoir (B) with new brake fluid up to the MAX mark.
Operate the brake pedal two or three times to pressurize the circuit.
Hold the pedal pressed down.

Warning
Allow the fluid to flow from the bleed valve (5) until it changes colour.
Tighten the bleed valve (5) and restore the correct fluid level in the reservoir.
Replace the cap (4), screwing it firmly on to the reservoir (B).
Draining the brake circuit
Warning
running water.
Undo the screws (2) and remove the cap (1) and membrane from the front brake fluid reservoir.

Unscrew the cap (4) of the rear brake fluid reservoir (B).
Connect a commercially available brake bleeder to the bleed valve (3) or (5).
Open the bleed valve (3) or (5) and pump with the bleeder until no more fluid emerges.
Notes
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial brake bleeding tool.
If you do not have a bleeder available, attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve
(3) or (5) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container of old brake fluid placed on the floor.

Unscrew the bleed valve by a 1/4 turn.

Operate the brake lever (or pedal) until all the fluid has drained out.
Repeat this operation for each brake caliper.
Fill the brake system with fluid
Warning
running water.
Fill the reservoir (A) or (B) with the recommended fluid taken from a previously unopened container.

Important
During the following operation, the fluid level must remain topped up at all times. The end of the
transparent plastic tubing must remain immersed in the discharged fluid at all times.
Operate the brake lever (or pedal) several times to allow the fluid to reach all points of the circuit and
expel any air.

Connect the bleed tool to bleed valve (3) or (5).
Notes
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial brake bleeding tool.
Open the bleed valve (3) or (5) and pump with the bleeder. Make sure that the reservoir level does not
fall below the MIN mark.
Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid flowing from the tube is completely free of air bubbles.
Tighten the bleed screw (3) or (5) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
If you do not have a brake bleeding tool available, connect a length of transparent plastic tubing to the
bleed valve (3) or (5) as described in the draining procedure.

Open the bleed valve (3) or (5) by a 1/4 turn and operate the brake lever (or pedal) several times
until the fluid starts coming out of the bleed valve. Pull the lever fully in and open the bleed valve by at
least a 1/4 of a turn.
Wait a few seconds, then release the lever gradually while simultaneously closing the bleed valve (3)
or (5).
Important
Do not release the brake lever (or pedal) until the bleed valve has been fully tightened.
Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid emerging from the plastic tube is free of air bubbles.
Bleed air from the bleed valves one at a time.
Tighten the bleed valve (3) or (5) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings). Replace
the dust cap.
To completely eliminate any air that might remain at the top of the front brake master cylinder, repeat
the same procedure for the bleed valve (6).
Top the fluid up to the correct level and tighten the screws (2) on reservoir (A) and replace cap (4) on
reservoir (B).
Changing the clutch fluid
Warning

Clutch fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. In addition, it is very harmful in contact
running water.
Remove the cap (1) and membrane from the clutch fluid reservoir (A).
Siphon the clutch fluid from the reservoir (A).
Fill the reservoir (A) with new clutch fluid up to the MAX mark.
Operate the clutch lever two or three times until the circuit is pressurized.
Hold the lever pulled in towards the handgrip.
Open the bleed valve (2) to allow fluid to escape.

Warning
Allow the fluid to flow from the bleed valve (2) until it changes colour. Tighten the bleed valve (2) to
the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and top up the reservoir fluid level.
Draining the clutch hydraulic circuit
Warning
Clutch fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. It is also very harmful if it comes into
contact with the skin or with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact, wash the affected area with
abundant running water.
Remove the dust cap to expose the bleed valve (2).

Connect a clutch circuit bleeding tool to the clutch slave cylinder bleed valve (2).
Notes
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial clutch bleeding tool.
Open the bleed valve and pump with the bleeding tool until no more fluid emerges.
If you do not have a bleeding tool available, attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed
valve (2) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container of old clutch fluid placed on the floor.

Unscrew the bleed valve by a 1/4 turn.

Remove the cap (1) and membrane from the clutch fluid reservoir (A).
Operate the clutch lever until all the fluid has been expelled.
To help drain the circuit fully, unscrew the three retaining screws (3) and remove the slave cylinder
cap from the engine.

Remove the clutch slave cylinder (4) taking care not to damage the internal O-ring (5).
Push in the internal piston to force out all the fluid from inside the cap.
Refit the slave cylinder cap and tighten retaining screws (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame
torque settings).
Tighten the bleed valve to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Filling the clutch circuit

Warning
Clutch fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. It is also very harmful if it comes into
Fill the reservoir with the recommended fluid (Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids) from a
previously unopened container.
Important
During the following operation, the fluid level must remain topped up at all times. The end of the
transparent plastic tubing must remain immersed in the discharged fluid at all times.
Operate the clutch lever and keep it pulled to fill the circuit and expel any air.
Connect the bleed tool to the bleed valve (2).
Notes
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial clutch bleeding tool.
Open the bleed valve (2) and pump with the bleeding tool. Make sure that the reservoir level does not
fall below the MIN mark.

Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid flowing from the tube is completely free of air bubbles.
If you do not have a bleeding tool available, connect a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed
valve (2) as outlined in the draining procedure.
Open the bleed valve by a 1/4 turn and operate the clutch lever several times until the fluid starts to
emerge from the bleed valve (2).
Pull the lever fully in and then slacken off the bleed valve by at least a 1/4 turn.
Wait for a few seconds, then release the lever gradually while simultaneously closing the bleed valve
(2).
Important
Do not release the clutch lever until the bleed valve has been fully tightened.
Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid emerging from the plastic tube is free of air bubbles.
Tighten the bleed valve (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and replace the
dust cap.
Top up the fluid level to approximately 3 mm above the MIN mark on the reservoir.
Replace the cap (1) with the membrane.
Adjusting the steering head bearings

Excessive handlebar play or the forks shaking in the steering head indicate that the play in the steering
head bearings requires adjustment. Proceed as follows:

Loosen the clamp bolt (1) that holds the steering tube to the top yoke.
Loosen the clamp bolts (2) securing the top yoke to the fork legs and loosen the handlebar bolts (3).
Using the special wrench 88713.1058, tighten the adjuster nut (4) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,
Frame torque settings).
Push the steering head against the nut (4) and tighten the previously loosened bolts to the specified
torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Adjusting the chain tension

Move the motorcycle slowly until you find the point at which the upper section of the chain is most taut.
Place the motorcycle on its sidestand.
Push the chain upwards with a finger in correspondence with the centre of the swingarm (see adhesive
label).
The bottom run of the chain must be able to deflect 33 to 35 mm.
To adjust the tension, proceed as follows:

Slacken off the two clamp bolts (1) that secure the rear wheel hub to the swingarm.
Fit service tool no. 88713.1038 inserting its tooth in the eccentric hub (2).
Rotate the eccentric hub (2) to obtain the correct chain tension.
Rotate the hub anti-clockwise to tighten the chain or clockwise to slacken it (as viewed from left-hand
side of the bike).

Important
An incorrectly tensioned chain will lead to accelerated wear of the transmission components.
If the clamp bolts (1) are removed, lubricate the threads and the underside of the head of each bolt,
then tighten the bolts (1) to the specified torque in the sequence 1-2-1.
Warning
For the safety of the passenger, it is essential that the eccentric hub clamp bolts are correctly
tightened (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Checking brake pad wear and changing brake pads
Warning
Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. It can also be very harmful if it comes into
Important

On handing over the motorcycle after changing the brake pads, inform the customer that the front
brake must be used gently for the first 100 km to allow the pads to bed in completely.
Checking front brake pad wear.

Look through the slot between the calipers to make sure the groove in the brake pad friction material
(1) is still visible.
Important
If either of the pads is worn, both pads must be renewed as a set.
Change the brake pads as follows:

Remove the calipers (Sect. G 3, Removal of the front brake system).
Remove the safety clips (2) and force the caliper pistons back into their bores by forcing the old brake
pads apart.
Remove the worn pads (1),
Notes
Change pads that have a shiny or “vitrified” appearance.
Insert the new pads with the relative safety clips (2).
Operate the brake lever repeatedly so that the pads are firmly bedded in against the disc by the force
of the brake fluid.
Check that the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir is above the MIN mark.
If necessary, top up as follows.
Turn the handlebar so that the reservoir is level.
Unscrew the two crosshead screws (3) and remove the reservoir cover.
Remove the inner membrane from the reservoir and top up with the recommended fluid to the
maximum level mark.

Refit all previously removed components.
Checking rear brake pad wear

Check through the slot between the two caliper halves that there is at least 1 mm of friction material
on the pads.
Important
If either of the pads is worn, both pads must be renewed as a set.
Change the brake pads as follows:

Remove the cotter pin (1) (on the inner side of the caliper) from the pad retaining pin.
Force the caliper pistons back into their bores by forcing the brake pads apart.
Withdraw the pad retaining pin (2) towards the outside.
Remove the clip (3) from between the two caliper halves.
Remove the worn pads.
Notes
Change pads that have a shiny or “vitrified” appearance.

Insert the new pads and clip (3). Fit the retaining pin (2) from the outer side and secure it with the
cotter pin (1), positioning the lip (A) so that it faces the wheel.
Operate the brake pedal repeatedly so that the pads are bedded in against the disc by the force of the
brake fluid.
Check that the brake fluid level in the reservoir (4) is between the MIN and MAX marks. If not,
unscrew the reservoir cover (4) and top up with the recommended brake fluid.
Notes

If it proves difficult to change the brake pads, first remove the caliper from the motorcycle (Sect. G 6,
Refitting the rear brake caliper).
Warning
As the brake calipers are components of vital importance to the safety of the motorcycle, refer to the
instructions in Sect. G 3, Hydraulic front brake, Sect. G 6, Hydraulic rear brake, and in particular, on
reassembly, take care to tighten the caliper bolts to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).
Adjusting the throttle cable

The throttle cable should have freeplay of 1.5 to 2.0 mm (measured in terms of rotation of the
twistgrip) in all steering positions.
If necessary, adjust using the adjusters (1 and 2) located on the steering tube on the left side of the
motorcycle.
Adjuster (1) adjusts the throttle opening control, while adjuster (2) adjusts the throttle closing control.
Peel back the sleeves to access the adjusters and slacken the locknuts.
Adjust both adjusters by the same amount: turn clockwise to increase free play, anti-clockwise to
decrease free play. When finished, tighten the locknuts and replace the sleeves.
Periodically check the condition of the outer cables of the throttle opening (1) and closing cables (2).
The plastic covering should show no signs of pinching or cracking.

Lubricate the ends of the inner cables with the prescribed grease periodically to ensure they run freely.
Operate the throttle to make sure the inner cable slides smoothly inside the outer cable. If you feel
excessive resistance or stiffness, renew the cable.
To lubricate the throttle twistgrip, peel back the rubber sleeve (A), unscrew the screws (3) and remove
the twistgrip housings (4) and (5).
Lubricate the ends of the cable and the race (B) with the recommended grease.
When refitting the cover, make sure that the cables are correctly positioned in the race (B).
Locate the housings (4) and (5) in the handlebar hole (C).

Secure the housings (4) and (5) with screws (3) tightened to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame
torque settings).
Adjusting the clutch lever and front brake lever

The lever (1) disengages the clutch. The span adjuster (2) serves to alter the distance of the lever
from the handlebar.
The lever distance can be adjusted through 10 clicks of the knob (2). Turn the knob clockwise to move
the lever away from twistgrip, or counter clockwise to move it closer.
The position of the front brake lever (3) can be adjusted in the same way.

When the clutch lever (1) is operated, drive from the engine to the gearbox and the rear wheel is
disengaged. Correct use of the clutch lever is very important in all riding situations, especially when
moving off.
Warning
Any adjustment of clutch and brake levers must only be carried out when motorcycle is stationary.
Adjusting the position of the gearchange and rear brake pedals

The position of the gearchange and rear brake pedals in relation to the footrests can be adjusted to
suit the preferred riding position.
To adjust the position of the gearchange pedal, proceed as follows:
Restrain the tie-rod (1) and slacken the locknuts (2) and (3).
Notes
The locknut (2) has a left-hand thread.
Turn the tie-rod (1) using an open-ended wrench on the flats to move the gearchange pedal to the
required position.
Tighten both nuts on to the rod.
To adjust the position of the rear brake pedal, proceed as follows.

Loosen the locknut (4).

Turn the pedal travel adjustment bolt (5) until the pedal is in the desired position.
Tighten the lock nuts (4) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Operate the pedal by hand to make sure it has 1.5 to 2 mm of free play before the brake begins to
bite.
If not, adjust the length of the master cylinder pushrod as follows.
Slacken off the locknut (7) on the pushrod.
Screw the rod into the clevis (6) to increase play, or unscrew it to reduce play.
Tighten the lock nut (7) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and re-check the
free play.
Adjusting the front fork

The front fork can be adjusted for rebound, compression and spring preload.
The settings are adjusted by way of external adjuster screws:
1) to adjust rebound damping;
2) to adjust spring preload;
3) to adjust compression damping.
Place the motorcycle in an upright position and ensure that it is stable.

To adjust the rebound damping setting, turn the adjuster (1) on the top of each fork leg with a flat-
blade screwdriver (1098) or the special wrench (1098S).
Turn the adjuster (3) on the bottom of each fork leg with a flat-blade screwdriver to adjust the
compression damping setting.
As you turn the adjusters (1 and 3), you will hear them click. Each click corresponds to different
damping setting. The stiffest damping setting is obtained with the adjuster turned fully clockwise to the
“0” position. Start from this position and turn the adjuster anti-clockwise while counting the number of
clicks, which correspond to position 1, 2 and so forth.
To change the spring preload for each fork leg, turn the adjuster (2) with a 22 mm hex wrench.

The STANDARD factory settings are as follows:

compression: 3/4 turn (1098), 8 clicks (1098S);
rebound: 12 clicks (1098), 10 clicks (1098S).
Spring preload (A): 18 mm (1098).
Adjusting the rear shock absorber

The shock absorber has external adjusters that enable you to adapt the rear suspension to suit the
load conditions. Adjuster (1), located on the left-hand side at the point at which the shock absorber is
fixed to the swingarm, controls rebound damping.

The adjuster (2) located on the rear shock absorber reservoir is used to adjust compression damping.
Turn the adjusters (1 and 2) clockwise to increase damping, or counter clockwise to reduce damping.
STANDARD setting:
(1098)
from the fully closed position (turned fully clockwise), unscrew:
rebound adjuster (1): 2 turns;
Compression adjuster (2): 2 turns;
Spring preload: 28 mm.
(1098S)
from the fully closed position (turned fully clockwise), unscrew:
rebound adjuster (1): 10 clicks;
Compression adjuster (2): 10 clicks;
Spring preload: 23 mm.
The two nuts (3) on the upper part of the shock absorber serve to adjust the preload on the outer
spring. To adjust the spring preload, unscrew the upper adjuster nut using a pin wrench.
Screw the lower nut in or out to increase or reduce the preload.
Once the desired spring preload has been set, lock down the upper ring nut.

Warning
To turn the preload adjuster ring nuts, use only a specific tool and take care, otherwise the wrench
pins may suddenly slip out of the ring nut. This could injure your hands.
Never use a wrench with a too small pin or with a too short handle.
Warning
The shock absorber is filled with high-pressure gas and can cause injuries if inexpertly dismantled.
Important
If the motorcycle is to be ridden with a pillion rider and luggage, we recommend setting rear shock
absorber spring preload to the maximum to ensure the best handling and proper ground clearance at
all times. It may also be necessary to adjust the rebound damping accordingly.
Adjusting the rear ride height

The original frame geometry represents the result of extensive testing by Ducati engineers in the
widest possible range of riding conditions. Modifying the frame geometry is a very critical operation,
and can be dangerous if carried out by untrained persons. Given that this motorcycle is often used in
competition, DUCATI has decided to equip this motorcycle with the means to alter the geometry of the
rear suspension and the steering head to suit the needs of different circuits and track conditions.
Changing the rear ride height

To determine the existing rear ride height, proceed as follows:
Park the motorcycle on level surface and support it an upright position.
Measure the height (H). Make a note of the measurement so as to be able to restore the original
setting later on.

To alter the height (H), adjust the tie-rod (2) as follows:

Loosen the lock nuts (3) on the tie-rod end fittings (1); note that the lower locknut has a left-hand
thread.
Using a wrench on the flats in the centre, turn the tie-rod body (2) to obtain the desired height.
Warning
The length of the tie-rod (2) between the centres of the two ball joints (1) must not exceed 166.7 mm.
Tighten the lock nuts (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Warning
The maximum distance that the UNIBALL end fitting (A) can be unscrewed from the tie-rod body is 5
threads, or 7.5 mm (B).


Diagnostic instruments
5 - Diagnostic instruments
1 97900.0211 Basic DDS (Ducati Diagnosis System)

2 97900.0227 Power and diagnostic cable D607
3 97900.0222 Power and diagnostic cable 1060838 (Measurement Module)
4 97900.0218 Vacuum sensor
5 552.1.039.1A Pressure sensor
6 97900.0220 Pressure/vacuum pipe
7 97900.0221 Pipe fitting
8 97900.0228 Battery socket adapter
9 814.1.114.1A Oil pressure connector
10 514.1.032.1A Auxiliary test cable
11 552.1.038.1A Cylinder compression cable with M10 connector
12 875.1.065.1A Oil pressure pipe
13 97900.0230 Mains power adapter
14 97900.0224 Mains power adapter
15 88765.1371 Belt tensioning sensor
16 88765.1374 Bracket for belt tensioning sensor
17 590.1.189.1A Fuel pressure test pipe
18 97900.0234 Ammeter clamp

1098 DIAGNOSIS TESTER DDS

1098S DIAGNOSIS TESTER DDS
Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text. Refer to the
exploded view diagram.
Description of the Ducati Diagnostic System instrument

The Ducati Diagnostic System (DDS) is used for diagnosis of the injection-ignition system via a serial connection. The
system is also equipped with functions to test various devices on the motorcycle. The DDS tester can be used to
measure current and voltage on any electrical device, to perform tests on individual components and to measure
pressure and temperature values.
The DDS tester (1) is comprised of a palmtop display unit (A), a BBAD self-diagnosis module (B), a display memory
card (C) and a BBAD memory card (D).

The touch-screen display unit (A) serves for both data display and input, using the stylus housed on the side of the
unit.
The self-diagnosis module (B) enables communication between the DDS tester (1) and the motorcycle’s on-board
electronic control unit (ECU).
The user interface software resides in the display memory card (C) which is housed in the palm-top display unit (A).
The software that enables communication with DUCATI ECUs resides in the BBAD memory card (D), which is housed
in the BBAD self-diagnosis module (B).
The display unit is equipped with two connection panels: one at the top of the instrument and one at the bottom.
The top connection panel has 6 connection sockets with the following functions:
- one VGA output (E);
- one port for connection of the measurement module (F);
- one RS232 serial port for connection of peripheral devices (COM1) (G);
- a second RS232 serial port for connection of peripheral devices (COM2) (H);
- two generic USB ports (USB1 and USB2) (L).
The bottom connection panel has 3 connection sockets with the following functions:
- one USB port (M);
- one power connection socket (N);
- one diagnostics connection socket (P).

You can connect a printer to the DDS tester (1) to print test reports: connect the printer to the serial port (COM1) (G)
located on the top connection panel of the tester (1).
Technical data
Power supply:
- from mains – 220 V;
- from the motorcycle battery - 12 V.
Components supplied with the DDS tester

The DDS tester (1) is supplied in a kit together with the following items:
- Rechargeable DDS battery
- Battery charger
- Mains power adapter
- USB memory card reader
- Power and diagnostic cable complete with fuse
- CD containing DDS installation software for PC
- USB cable
- Belt tension sensor
Tester power supply

The DDS tester (1) may be powered in any one of the following ways:
- from the mains power supply by connecting the mains adapter (14) to the power connection socket (N).
- from the motorcycle by connecting the specific cables (see paragraph “Connection to motorcycle”);
from the tester's internal battery: the battery (Q) is housed in the top part of the tester. To operate the tester (1)
-
using the internal battery and to recharge the battery, refer to the “User Manual” supplied with the DDS tester.
To switch on the display, press the button (T).

Connection to motorcycle
The tester requires a power supply of between 9 and 16 Volts DC.
When using the tester, take care never to allow the power supply to fall below the minimum voltage: this situation
could occur during engine starting and idling on motorcycles in which the battery is not in perfect working order. If
the tester detects a power supply voltage of less than 9 Volts, the current procedures will be aborted; when the
voltage returns to within the acceptable tolerance limits the procedure must initiated again from the beginning.
The DDS tester (1) may be powered from the motorcycle in any one of the following ways:
connect the battery power adapter (13) to the power connection socket (N) on the tester and to the motorcycle
-
battery;

connect the power and diagnostic cable (2) to the diagnostic connection socket (P) on the tester; then connect the
- battery socket adapter (8) to the connection socket (R) on the power and diagnostics cable (2) and to the
motorcycle battery.

Notes
For connection of the various devices required for self-diagnostic procedures, consult the instruction handbook
supplied with the tester.
DDS tester
The main functions of the DDS tester can be summarised as follows:
Retrieval of errors (faults) of the ignition - injection system stored in the engine control unit memory and their
-
subsequent deletion, if required.
Reading of engine parameters (rpm, coolant and air temperature, atmospheric pressure, throttle opening, battery
-
voltage, injection times and ignition advance, etc.).
Active diagnostics. Activation of ignition - injection system transducers to test functionality and control signals (fuel
- pump, ignition coils, rev counter, injectors, etc.). With this function it is also possible to enter the code to override
the immobilizer.
Road test. Makes it possible to store engine parameters recorded within a previously specified engine speed range
-
interval. The resulting parameters can then be analysed and displayed once they have been acquired.
With specific sensors connected, the DDS tester can read electrical voltages, current, temperature, timing belt
-
tension, and pressure values (lubrication and fuel supply circuits for example).
Checking and adjusting timing belt tension
Notes
The on-screen icons used during this procedure are explained in a table at the end of this section.
Notes
This operation, which is performed using the DDS tester, has the advantage that it can be carried out on both timing
belts with the engine still installed on the frame. An optical reader is connected to the DDS. The optical reader has a

green LED that serves to determine that the reader is correctly positioned in front of the belt to be tested. It is also
equipped with an infrared transmitter (A) and receiver (B) designed to detect oscillations of the belt when caused to
vibrate with the flick of a finger.

Remove the right-hand side fairing E 2, Removal of the side fairings
Remove the timing belt covers N 4.2, Removal of the timing belt
covers
Remove the spark plugs

Position the crankshaft so that the piston of the horizontal cylinder is at TDC of its power stroke.
This is achieved by aligning the timing mark (C) on the timing driveshaft pulley (19) with the reference notch (D) on
the clutch cover (20).
Take the measurement on section (21) of the horizontal belt as described in the paragraph “Measuring timing belt
tension”.
Turn the crankshaft through 270° in the direction of rotation of the engine (so that the piston of the vertical cylinder
is at TDC of the power stroke) and repeat the procedure used for the horizontal cylinder, measuring the tension on
section (25) of the vertical cylinder timing belt.

Remove the belt tension sensor and disconnect the DDS tester from the motorcycle.

Refit the timing belt covers N 4.2, Refitting the timing covers
Refit the right-hand side fairing E 2, Refitting the side fairings
Measuring timing belt tension

Switch on the DDS tester (1); see paragraph entitled “Tester power supply”.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module) (3) to the measurement module connector (F) on
the DDS tester (1).
Connect the belt tension sensor (15) to the connector (V) of the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module)
(3).
Fix the mounting bracket of the belt tension sensor (15) using the timing belt cover screw (22).

Aim the central green LED of the sensor (15) at the mid-point of the belt run, with the reader parallel to the belt and
at a distance of about 1 to 1.5 cm from it.
On the DDS tester (1), select the “Measurement module” function by pressing the corresponding icon; then press the
“Belt Tension” icon followed by the “Start” icon to access the “Mechanical belt tension” screen.
The socket to which the cable (Measurement Module) (3) is to be connected is indicated on the screen with a capital
letter: A, B or C.

Flick belt lightly with your finger and read the frequency value (Hz) on the DDS tester.
Notes
Do not flick the belt several times repeatedly, as the minimum time necessary for the DDS tester to take a reading is
1 second.
Correct tension values are as shown in Sect. C 1.1, Timing system/valves and must be checked with the engine cold:
apply the installation values when fitting a new belt, and the reset values when belt tension reaches 70 Hz.
Warning
The timing belts can become slack during normal operation. When checking belt tension, if the reading is less than
70 Hz, restore to the specified reset values (Sect. C 1.1, Timing system/valves).
If the tension is incorrect, increase or reduce belt tension by loosening the nut (24) and moving the adjustable
tensioner pulley (23).
Tighten the nut (24) securing the tensioner pulley.
Re-check the timing belt tension.
Repeat the above procedure until the correct belt tension is obtained.
Once finished, tighten the nut (24) of the tensioner pulley (23) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque
settings).

Resetting the throttle position sensor (TPS)

The linear throttle potentiometer has no facility for positioning adjustment: to ensure that the system functions
correctly, proceed as follows:
Warning
This procedure must precede the first start-up of the vehicle after replacement of the throttle body, the ECU or the
wiring.
Make sure the butterfly valve is seated against the stop (throttle twistgrip fully closed).
In this position you can teach the ECU the angle of the position sensor. To do this, use the DDS tester and follow the
procedure described below.
Lift the fuel tank (Sect. L 2, Removal of the fuel tank).
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (2) to the diagnostics connector (A) on the tester and to the diagnostics
socket (B) on the motorcycle.

Enter the general functions menu by pressing the icon “Menu 1” (C).
Press the “Select vehicle” icon and, on the next screen, press the “Select motorcycle” icon; select the motorcycle
model and confirm, then select the version and confirm.
Press the icon “Select system” to display a list of the bike’s systems that can be analysed.

Select “Engine electronics” and press the “Confirm” icon (D). Next, press the “Self-diagnosis” icon to access the
corresponding function.
The DDS tester will interrogate the electronic control unit and display the parameters analysed with their relative
values.
Notes
Make the connections with the motorcycle ignition key in the OFF position.
Press the “Settings” icon to display the special parameters.

Select the option “Reset TPS” and then press the icon “Apply”.
On completion of the operation, the message “Was the operation was completed successfully?” will appear; press
“Confirm” (D).

If any problems were encountered during the operation, the tester will display the relative error messages: each
message must be confirmed, (by pressing the “Confirm” icon (D)), or rejected (by pressing the “Exit” icon (E)).
Once the reset has been performed, the ECU will be associated with the motorcycle's throttle body. Replacement of
the throttle body, the ECU or the wiring must always be immediately followed by a new reset procedure.
Adjusting the idle speed
Notes
Check that the motorcycle is fitted with a genuine Ducati ECU, intake system and exhaust system; if not, fit genuine
components.
This adjustment should be carried out in an ambient temperature greater than 16 °C.
Connect the inserts of the exhaust gas analyser code 88713.1010 to the outlets on the exhaust pipes using the
fittings (19).

Make sure that the butterfly valve race is seated against the stop screw when the throttle twistgrip is fully closed.
Make sure that the throttle cable freeplay is correctly adjusted.
Reset the TPS to zero as described in the paragraph “Resetting the throttle position sensor (TPS)” in this section.
Check:
that the throttle angle value read by the DDS tester with the engine switched off is 2.6° ± 0.1°; if not, repeat the
-
procedure “Resetting the throttle position sensor (TPS)”;
- that the engine idling state is recognised, i.e. that the “butterfly valve closed” parameter on the DDS is ON.
Start the engine and wait for the coolant temperature to reach 75 °C.
When the coolant temperature exceeds 75 °C, start the adjustment operations described below, bearing in mind that
on completion of the adjustment, the coolant temperature must not exceed 90 °C.
Test the CO level, checking the value is greater than 0.7 on both cylinders.
Warning
If the engine is shut off, before proceeding with adjustment of the CO level, wait a minute after restarting for the
enrichment stage to finish (crank time).
Check the CO level of the vertical cylinder:
a if the average CO level of the VERTICAL cylinder is greater than or equal to 0.7%, check the rotation speed;
if the average CO level of the VERTICAL cylinder is less than 0.7% (weak mixture), close the VERTICAL by-pass
(21) by 1/4 of a turn at a time, waiting about 20 seconds for the exhaust gases to reach the analyser, until the CO
level of the VERTICAL cylinder exceeds 0.7%. If after completely closing the by-pass on the VERTICAL cylinder,
b the VERTICAL CO level is still less than 0.7%, open the by-pass of the HORIZONTAL cylinder (20) by 1/4 a turn at
a time until the electronic engine management system brings the VERTICAL cylinder to a CO level greater than
0.7% (note that adjusting the by-pass of the horizontal cylinder also adjusts the combustion of the vertical
cylinder).
Checking the average rpm read by the DDS:
a if the average reading is between 1300 and 1400 rpm (1350 ±50 rpm), the adjustment is correct;
if the average reading falls outside the above range, repeat the entire adjustment procedure, after which, if the
average is less than 1300 rpm, open both by-passes (20) and (21) by 1/8 of a turn at a time, until it falls within
b
the above range. Conversely, if the average is more than 1400 rpm, close both by-passes (20) and (21) by 1/8 of
a turn at a time, until it falls within the specified range.
Warning
In any event, the by-passes of the two cylinders must not be open by more than 2.5 turns from the fully closed
position.

If the idle speed adjustment procedure is unsuccessful, proceed as follows:

1 repeat the entire idle speed adjustment procedure;
2 check the CO level of the horizontal cylinder:
the CO level of the horizontal cylinder should be kept within the range 0.4% - 1.4% automatically by the
-
electronic engine management system;
- if this does not occur, renew the lambda probe and/or check the valve clearances, timing, seals, etc.;
- repeat the entire idle speed adjustment procedure;
check the vacuum pressures downstream of the butterfly valve (make this check only after completing the steps
3
described above).
Warning
Idle speed adjustment takes priority over balancing the vacuum pressures downstream of the butterfly valve.
Differences in pressure between the horizontal and vertical cylinder are therefore acceptable, provided that the
correct adjustment of the idle speed is adhered to.
If you are unable to reach the desired idle speed setting, try reducing the vacuum differential downstream of the
-
butterfly valve as described in the following paragraph “Throttle body balancing”;
- repeat the entire idle speed adjustment procedure.
Throttle body balancing

Connect the Measurement Module cable (3) to the Measurement Module connector on the DDS (see paragraph
“Description of the Ducati Diagnostic System instrument”).
Connect the vacuum/pressure pipes (6) to the connectors (A) and (C) of cable (3) and connect the fittings (7) to the
pipes.
Switch on the DDS tester; see the paragraph “Tester Power Supply”.
Enter the “Measurement module” function. Press the “Cylinder synchronisation” icon.

The socket to which the Measurement Module cable (3) is to be connected is indicated on the screen with a capital
letter: A, B or C. Remove the screws (22) from the cylinder heads and install the fittings (7) in their place.
Open both by-pass screws (20) and (21) by one turn from the fully closed position.

Warning
Press the “Reset” icon (G), then connect the sensors (4) and (5) to connectors (A) and (C) of the cable (3) and to the
vacuum/pressure pipes (6).
Press the “Start” icon to begin the cylinder pressure measurement procedure.
The onscreen indicator light (E) will turn red when the function is active.
Start the engine.
The values may be displayed in two different ways: in numerical form or in graphic form; to select the desired display
type, press the “Value display” icon (F).
The values can be reset by pressing the “Reset” icon (G).
To adjust the balance, turn the by-pass screws (20) and (21) until the two lines on the graph coincide, if in graphic
mode, or until identical numerical values are displayed, if in numerical mode.
Correct balancing is obtained when the two lines of the graph are superimposed or when the two numerical values
indicated are equal.

Checking the engine oil pressure
Notes
To measure the pressure of the lubrication circuit, use the engine oil pressure test point (19) as follows:
Disconnect the wiring connector (A) and remove the pressure switch (19), taking care to recover the seal.
Insert the fitting (9) into the connection on the hose (12), interposing the two copper sealing washers (20). Insert the
fitting (9) of the pipe (12) in the threaded hole (M10x1 mm) of the right crankcase cover and screw it fully home.
Refit the pressure switch (19) on the fitting (9) along with its seal, and reconnect the wiring connector (A).

Connect the pressure sensor (5) to the pipe (12) to transform the pressure signal into an electrical signal.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module) (3) to the measurement module connector (B) on
the DDS tester (1).

Connect the pressure sensor (5) to socket (A) or (C) of the cable (3).
“Pressure Test” icon (D) followed by the “Start” icon (E).

letter: A, B or C.

Start the engine.

The values may be displayed in three different ways: one numeric format and two graphic formats; to select the
desired display type, press the “Value display” icon (F).
The measured value is indicated alongside the letter (A) or (C) identifying the cable used for the measurement: i.e. if
you used connector (A) of the cable (3), the measured value will be displayed next to the letter (A) on the screen.
Oil pressure test values:
Warm engine
(Minimum oil temperature = 80 °C)
1100 - 1300 rpm
greater than 0.8 bar
3500 - 4000 rpm
greater than 4 bar
Important
The maximum pressure must never exceed 6.0 bar.

Excessively high pressure may indicate that the relief valve is stuck. Excessively low pressure, on the other hand,
may be caused by the relief valve being stuck in the open position, the relief valve spring being too weak, or a faulty
oil pump. Other causes are excessively worn seals and gaskets or a badly worn engine.
Remove the tool and refit the pressure switch (19) along with its seal. Tighten the pressure switch to the specified
torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Reconnect the electrical system connector (A) to the pressure switch.
Disconnect the DDS tester.

Refit the RH side fairing (Sect. E 2, Refitting the side fairings).
Cylinder compression test
Notes
Engine performance is directly correlated to the pressure that can be measured in the combustion chambers of the
two cylinders. Excessive or insufficient pressure, or an excessive difference between the two cylinders, will result in a
reduction in engine performance and can lead to component failure.
Run the engine so that it warms up to the point that the fan is tripped at least once.
Remove the engine outer structures.
Open the throttles completely.
Remove the HT leads (19), unscrewing the nuts (20) of both spark plugs.
Remove the spark plug from the cylinder to be tested.
Connect the HT lead to earth to prevent sparking.

Screw the cylinder compression fitting (11) into the spark plug bore.
Connect the pressure sensor (5) to the cable (11).
Switch on the DDS tester (1); see paragraph entitled “Connection to motorcycle”.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module) (3) to the measurement module connector (B) on
the DDS tester (1).

Notes
Measure the compression on one cylinder at a time.
“Cylinder Compression” icon (D) followed by the “Start” icon (E).

letter: A, B or C.
Turn over the engine with the starter motor until the pressure stops rising.
Check the pressure in each cylinder:
- standard value: 13 - 15 bar;
- minimum value: 11 bar;
- maximum permissible difference between cylinders: 2 bar.
An excessively high pressure value can be caused by:

- build up of deposits in the combustion chamber.
An excessively low pressure value can be caused by:
- gas escaping between the cylinder head and the barrel;
- worn valve seats;
- bent valve stems;
- incorrect valve clearances;
- worn cylinder or piston rings.
Refit the sparkplugs, position the HT leads (19) in their respective housings and tighten the nuts (20) to the specified
When the check has been completed, refit the outer structures.

Fuel pressure test
Notes
Before doing this check, detach the fuel tank (Sect. L 2, Removal of the fuel tank) from the bike, without removing it.
Slightly raise the fuel tank and place a pad underneath it so as to be able to access the fittings on the flange.
Remove the fuel feed hose (19).
Take the fuel pressure pipe test (17) and connect one end (D) to the outlet fitting on the tank and the other end (E)
to the fuel feed hose (19) in this way, the fuel pressure can be measured at the test outlet (F).
Connect the pressure sensor (5) to the test outlet (F) of the pipe (17) to transform the pressure signal into an
electrical signal.

Connect the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module) (3) to the measurement module connector (E) on
the DDS tester (1).
“Pressure Test” icon (F) followed by the “Start” icon (G).

letter: A, B or C.
The values may be displayed in three different ways: in one numeric form and in two graphic forms; to select the
desired display type, press the “Value display” icon (H).
The measured value is indicated alongside the letter (A) or (C) identifying the cable used for the measurement: i.e. if
you used connector (A) of the cable (3), the measured value will be displayed next to the letter (A) on the screen.
The maximum pressure must be 3 bar (nominal).
On completion of the test, remove all the components of the test instrument and refit the fuel feed hose (19).
Refit the fuel tank (Sect. L 2, Refitting the fuel tank).

Immobilizer override procedure
Notes
If the immobilizer system does not work, there is an emergency procedure for starting the engine, by entering the
secret code with the aid of the DDS tester.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (2) to the diagnostics connector (H) on the tester and to the diagnostics
socket (L) on the motorcycle.
Enter the general functions menu by pressing the icon “Menu 1” (A).

Select “Engine electronics” and press the “Confirm” icon (B). Next, press the “Self-diagnosis” icon to access the
corresponding function.

values.
Notes
Make the connections with the motorcycle ignition key in the OFF position.
Press the “Actuators” icon (C) to display the actuators and other components connected to the ECU.
Select the option “Immobilizer Override” and then press the icon “Apply” (D).

A screen will appear in which you can enter the 5 digit secret code. Use the red arrows (E) and (F) to enter each digit:
after entering each digit, press the “Confirm” icon (B).
One the entire code has been entered, press the “Confirm” icon (B) again.
“Confirm”.
message must be confirmed by pressing the “Confirm” icon, or rejected by pressing the “Exit” icon (G).
Disconnect the tester.
Guided diagnosis
Notes
The DDS tester guides the operator step-by-step through the various diagnostic procedures, providing descriptions

and documentation for motorcycle components, wiring diagrams for the electronic systems and information on the
locations of specific components.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (2) to the diagnostics connector (F) on the tester and to the diagnostics
socket (G) on the motorcycle.
Enter the general functions menu by pressing the icon “Menu 1” (A).

Select “Engine electronics” and press the “Confirm” icon (B).
Press the “Guided diagnosis” icon (C) to access the corresponding function.

A series of screens are displayed indicating the operations required for correct diagnosis.
To determine whether the system has any internal problems, you can access the “Self-diagnosis” function by pressing
the corresponding icon. If any errors are present, the symbol (D) will be displayed. To determine the type of errors
present, press the “Errors” icon (E). Once errors have been detected, you can then resolve them through the guided
diagnosis procedure; press the “Guided Diagnosis” icon.
values.
Testing the battery charging system
Notes
You can determine the engine rpm required for the alternator to produce sufficient current to charge battery, power
the injection/ignition system and all the electrical equipment on the motorcycle. When applied to a cable, the

ammeter clamp (18) detects the magnetic field generated by the current passing through that cable.
Remove the right-hand fairing (Sect. E 2, Removal of the side fairings).

Switch on the DDS tester (1); see heading “Tester Power Supply”.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module) (3) to the measurement module connector (D) on
the DDS tester (1).
Connect the ammeter clamp to the connector (E) of the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module) (3).
Warning
The ammeter clamp must not be connected to wires through which electrical current is flowing.
Apply the ammeter clamp to the battery positive terminal lead with the arrow on the clamp pointing towards the
battery positive terminal (+).
“Ammeter” icon (F) followed by the “Start” icon.

letter: A, B or C.

If the measured current is a positive quantity, this means that alternator is powering all the electrical loads and
charging battery at the same time. If the current has a negative sign (-), this means that the charging system is not
able to power the electrical loads and a significant amount of the current required must be supplied by the battery,
which is therefore discharging.
Important
If polarity is reversed when clamping the ammeter onto the cable, the sign of the readings will also be reversed,
giving rise to incorrect diagnosis.
Deactivating the “service” indication on the instrument panel

The message “SERV” is displayed on the instrument panel, indicating that the motorcycle should be serviced in
accordance with the programmed maintenance plan. This indication is activated after the first 1000 km and
thereafter at intervals of 12000 km.
After the scheduled service has been carried out, the indication must be switched off as follows:
Notes
Switch on the DDS tester; see the paragraph “Tester Power Supply”.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (2) to the diagnostics connector (A) on the tester and to the diagnostics
socket (E) on the motorcycle.

Enter the general functions menu by pressing the “Menu 1” icon (B).
Press the “Select system” icon.

A list of the motorcycle’s systems that can be analysed will appear on the display

Select “Engine electronics”.

Press the “Confirm” icon (C). Next, press the “Self-diagnosis” icon to access the corresponding function.
values.
Press the “Settings” icon to display the special parameters.
Select the option “Mainten. light OFF” and then press the “Apply” icon.

“Confirm” (C).
message must be confirmed, (by pressing the “Confirm” icon (C)), or rejected (by pressing the “Exit” icon (D)).
Notes
Once the “service” indication has been reset with the DDS tester, set the ignition switch to OFF and wait for at least
30 seconds before switching it ON again.
Icons table
Symbol Designation

Confirm
Exit
Measurement module
Belt tension
Start/stop
Menu 1
Select vehicle
Select motorcycle
Self-diagnosis
Settings
Apply
Cylinder synchronisation
Value display
Reset

Pressure test
Cylinder compression
Actuators
Guided diagnosis
Select system
Errors
Ammeter clamp

Fairings
0Fairings
1 - Headlight shell - rear-view mirrors 3
Removal of the rear-view mirrors 4
Refitting the rear-view mirrors 5
Removal of the air scoop covers 6
Refitting the air scoop covers 8
Removal of the headlight shell 11
Refitting the headlight shell 13
2 - Fairing panels 16
Removal of the side fairings 17
Removal of the front shield 20
Refitting the front shield 20
Refitting the side fairings 21
3 - Seat – seat cowling and side panels 23

Removal of the seats 24
Removal of the side panels and seat cowling 25
Refitting the side panels and seat cowling 28
Refitting the seats 32
Refitting the pillion seat 33
4 - Front mudguard 34
Removal of the front mudguard 34
Refitting the front mudguard 35
file:///C|/1098/wsm/usa/1098S_07_E_IND_00.20.1.html [15-8-2008 0:12:11]

Headlight shell - rear-view mirrors
1 - Headlight shell - rear-view mirrors
1 Headlight shell
2 Bolt
3 Washer
4 Bolt
5 Bolt
6 Clip
7 Rivet
8 RH rear-view mirror
9 LH rear-view mirror
10 Nut
11 Nylon washer
12 Special screw
13 Windshield
14 Splashguard
15 Upper gasket
16 Lower gasket
17 Threaded insert
18 Bolt
file:///C|/1098/wsm/usa/1098S_07_E_1_4_00.21.1.html (1 of 14) [15-8-2008 0:12:12]

19 Right heel plate

20 Left heel plate
21 Special screw
22 Insert
1098 HEADLIGHT FAIRING

1098S HEADLIGHT FAIRING
Important
Removal of the rear-view mirrors

Unscrew the rear-view mirror (9) retaining bolt (4).
Release the rear view mirror (9) by disengaging the pins (B) from the clips (6).
Remove the lower rubber gasket (16) and disconnect the turn indicator wiring connector (A) from the wiring loom.
During removal, take care not to lose or damage the gasket (16).
Repeat the process for the other rear-view mirror.
Wrap the mirrors in protective material to avoid damaging them.

Refitting the rear-view mirrors

Locate the rear view mirror on the headlight shell, routing the turn indicator wiring through the hole in the headlight
shell.
Check that the upper gasket (15) is in place on the mirror.
Refit the lower gasket (16).
Engage the pins (B) in the clips (6) on the headlight shell.
Connect the front turn indicator wiring connector (A) to the wiring loom.
Tighten the bolt (4) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and apply the recommended
threadlocker.
Repeat the process to refit the other rear-view mirror.

Removal of the air scoop covers

Remove the LH (A) and RH (B) bulb covers on the headlight.
Undo the three screws (21) securing the RH air scoop cover (19).

Undo the three screws (21) securing the LH air scoop cover (20).
Slide the air scoop covers (19) and (20) towards the front of the motorcycle and when the fittings (A) are clear of the

fairing, lift.
Refitting the air scoop covers

Refit the air scoop covers (19) and (20), taking care not to mark the fuel tank or break the bulb.
Insert the fittings (A) in the slots (B) in the LH and RH fairing panels and slide them towards the fuel tank.

Fit the six screws (21) securing the RH (19) and LH (20) air scoop covers. Tighten the screws to the specified torque
(Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Refit the LH (A) and RH (B) bulb covers on the headlight.

Removal of the headlight shell

To remove the headlight shell, you must first remove the rear view mirrors and air scoop covers as described above.
Unscrew the bolts (18) and remove the splash guard (14).
Unscrew the bolts (5) (on both sides of the headlight support frame) and the bolt (2) with washer (3) under the light
assembly.

Slide the headlight shell (1) forward, releasing it from the rubber mountings of the lights assembly.
If the windshield (13) is to be replaced, unscrew the bolts (12) with washers (11) and remove the windshield (13),
recovering the inserts (10).

Refitting the headlight shell
Important
On refitting the headlight shell, always refit the nylon washers (11) in correspondence with the retaining bolts to
avoid damaging the painted parts and the Plexiglas windshield.
During reassembly, make sure that the threaded inserts (10) are correctly positioned on the headlight shell.
To prevent the bolts (12) and washers (11) from moving while fitting them, hold the inserts (10) pressed against the
headlight shell (1).
Check that the threaded inserts (17) are present on the headlight shell (1) and on the lower part of the lights
assembly (A) and its support (B).

Make sure the turn indicator wiring is correctly routed in the grooves inside the headlight shell supports.
Bring the headlight shell up to the lights assembly and locate the pins of the headlight shell in the rubbers (D).
Push the headlight shell (1) into place on the lights assembly.

Refit the bolts (5) (on both sides of the headlight support frame) and the bolt (2) with washer (3) under the light
assembly. Tighten the bolts (5) and (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Refit the windshield (14) and tighten the bolts (18) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Refit the rear view mirrors and air scoop covers as previously described.

Refit the side fairings E 2, Refitting the side fairings

Fairing panels
2 - Fairing panels
1 Clip
2 Panel (left)
3 Panel (right)
4 Left upper fairing
5 Threaded insert
6 Left lower fairing
7 Left side panel
8 Right side panel
9 Right lower fairing
10 Screw
11 Right upper fairing
12 Bracket
13 Clip
14 Washer
15 Bush
16 Front air scoop
17 Screw
18 Nylon washer

Fairing panels
19 Screw
20 Bolt
21 Nylon washer
22 Screw
23 Pin
24 Bush
1098 FAIRING
1098s FAIRING
Important
Removal of the side fairings

Unscrew the screws (22) securing the bottom of the fairing panels, recovering the washers (21).
Unscrew the inner screw (19) securing the front of the right upper fairing (11).
Remove the bolts (23) and bushes (24) securing the splashguard (A) to the inner panel (3).

Fairing panels
Unscrew the screws (22) and (19) securing the right upper fairing (11) to the bike, recovering the washers (21) and
(18).
Remove the right side fairing assembly from the motorcycle.

Proceed in the same way with the left side fairing, withdrawing the sidestand through the aperture in the fairing.
To remove the soundproofing panels (7) and (8), remove the clips (1).
Disassembly of the fairing

Remove the screws (19) securing the panel (3) and remove it from the upper fairing (11).

Fairing panels
Undo the screws (19) securing the upper fairing (11) to the lower (9), recovering the washers (18).
Repeat the above steps to disassemble the left-hand side fairing.

To reassemble the fairing panels, carry out the steps of the disassembly procedure in reverse order, making sure that
the inserts (5) are fitted to the upper fairing (11) and the panel (3).
Make sure that the inserts (5) and clips (13) are fitted to the lower fairing (9).

Fairing panels
Tighten all screws to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Removal of the front shield

After removing the side fairings as described above, unscrew the screws (22) securing the front shield (16) to the oil
cooler support bracket.
Remove the front shield (16) from its seat and recover the washers (21).
Refitting the front shield

When refitting, tighten the bolts (22) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Refitting the side fairings
Warning

Fairing panels
If parts that have been removed are not refitted correctly they may become loose suddenly while riding and cause
you to lose control of your motorcycle.
Important
To avoid damage to painted parts, always fit the nylon washers (21) and (18) in correspondence with the fixing
screws.
Make sure that the clips (13) are fitted to the frame on both sides of the motorcycle.
Fit the screws (22) and (19) securing the right upper fairing (11) to the bike, interposing the washers (21) and (18).
Insert the screws (23) and bushes (24) securing the splashguard (A) to the inner panel (3).
Fit the inner screw (19) securing the front of the right upper fairing (11).

Fairing panels
Left fairing mounting bracket

If the bracket (12) was removed, refit, in order, bush (17), bush (15), washer (14), bracket (12) and secure then
with the screws (20) and (10). Tighten the screws (20) and (10) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings). Make sure that the clip (13) is fitted.
In the same way, refit the left fairing (4), taking care when inserting the sidestand through the aperture provided in
the fairing panel (6).
Fit the left fairing, attaching it to the front shield and to the right fairing at the bottom.
Fit the screws (22) securing the bottom of the fairing panels, interposing the washers (21).
Tighten all the fairing retaining screws mentioned above to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Seat – seat cowling and side panels
3 - Seat – seat cowling and side panels
1 Seat
2 Bolt
3 Washer
4 Pillion seat
5 Seat cover
6 Dual seat cowling
7 Bolt
8 Bolt
9 Left side panel
10 Right side panel
11 Bolt
12 Bolt
13 Threaded insert
14 Seat lock
15 Control cable
16 Seat catch
17 Support
18 Nut

19 Seat cowling heat shield

20 Rubber mounting
21 Flange
22 M5 clip
23 M6 clip
1098 SEAT
1098s SEAT
Important
Removal of the seats
Removal of the pillion seat

Release the pillion seat (4) by opening the lock (A) at the rear of the rider seat (1).
Remove the pillion seat (4) from the bike by pulling it backwards slightly and lifting.
Removal of the rider seat

Undo the bolts (2) securing the seat to the subframe and recover the washers (3).
Remove the rider seat (1) from the bike by pulling it backwards slightly and lifting.

Removal of the side panels and seat cowling
Removal of the side panels

In order to remove the side panels, you first need to remove the seats as described previously.
Unscrew the two bolts (12) securing the rear of the right (10) and left (9) side panels to the rear subframe. Unscrew
the four lateral rear retaining bolts (12).
Undo the bolt (11) securing the front of the right (10) and left (9) side panel to the fuel tank. Unscrew the two central
retaining bolts (2) of the right (10) and left (9) side panels, recovering the washers (3).

Unscrew the two front retaining bolts (11) of the right (10) and left (9) side panels. Remove the two side panels from
the bike.
Removal of the seat cowling

In order to remove the seat cowling, you first need to remove the seats and side panels as described previously.
Disconnect the wiring connectors (A) of the rear wiring loom and the connector (B) of the data acquisition wiring.

Unscrew the two upper bolts (7) securing the seat cowling (6). Unscrew the two bolts (8) securing the catch for the
lock (16).
Remove the seat cowling (6) from the heat shield (19), pushing the cowling towards the front of the bike while
simultaneously lifting it to disengage the catches (C) on the heat shield (19) from the corresponding locations on the
seat cowling (6).

Removal of the seat cowling heat shield

Remove the exhaust silencers and the relative clamps as indicated in Sect. L 8, Removal of the exhaust system).
In order to remove the seat cowling heat shield, you first need to remove the seats, side panels and seat cowling as
described previously.
Unscrew the lower front bolts (11) securing the heat shield (19). Undo the retaining nuts (18) and remove the
support (17).
Remove the heat shield (19) from the flanges (21), freeing the wiring (D).
Refitting the side panels and seat cowling

Make sure that the M5 clips (22), M6 clips (23), rubber mountings (20) and the flanges (21) are all fitted to the bike.

Check that threaded inserts (13) are present on the seat cowling (6) and on side panels (9) and (10).

Check that the rubber mountings (20) are present on the heat shield (19). Offer the shield (19) up to the subframe
and insert the wiring (D) in the aperture (E).
Refitting the seat cowling heat shield

Refit the heat shield (19) to the flanges (21). Position the support (17) and tighten the nuts (18). Refit the lower front
bolts (11) securing the heat shield (19). Tighten the bolts (11) and nuts (18) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,
Refit the exhaust silencers and the relative clamps as indicated in Sect, L 8, Refitting the exhaust system).
Refitting the seat cowling

Refit the seat cowling (6) to the heat shield (19), pushing the cowling towards the rear of the bike so that it engages
the catches (C) on the shield (19).

Refit the two upper bolts (7) securing the seat cowling (6). Refit the two bolts (8) securing the catch for the lock (16)
Tighten the bolts (7) and (8) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Reconnect the wiring connectors (A) of the rear wiring loom and the connector (B) of the data acquisition wiring.

Refitting the side panels

Position the left side panel (9) on the bike first and then the right (10) and fit the bolt (11) that connects the two side
panels together and to the fuel tank. Fit the washers (3) on the bolts (2) and secure the central parts of the side
panels to the rear subframe.
Refit the two front retaining bolts (11) of the right (10) and left (9) side panels.

Fit the four bolts (12) securing the rear of the right (10) and left (9) side panels to the rear subframe. Fit the two
lateral rear retaining bolts (12). Tighten the bolts (11), (2) and (12) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).
Refitting the seats
Refitting the rider seat

Position the seat (1) on the bike pushing it against the fuel tank so that the front catches engage the corresponding
locations on the fuel tank.
Fit the washers (3) on the bolts (2) and fit them in the rear slots of the seat (1) to secure it to the rear subframe.
Tighten the bolts (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Refitting the pillion seat

Refit the pillion seat (4) and fit the catches (F) on the seat base under the frame cross tube.
Press down on the pillion seat until you hear the catch engage with an audible click.
Make sure that the pillion seat (4) is fully engaged by lightly pulling it upwards.
Notes
The motorcycle can be converted to a single-seat configuration by installing the seat cover (5), which is fitted in the
same way as the pillion seat (4).

Front mudguard
4 - Front mudguard
1098 FAIRING
1098s FAIRING
Removal of the front mudguard

Disconnect the brake hose (A) from the clip (1).
Remove the retaining bolts (2) and recover the nylon washers (3).
Remove the front mudguard (4).
Notes
The clip (1) is secured to the front mudguard by means of a shear rivet (5) with two washers (6).

Front mudguard
Refitting the front mudguard
Warning
Do not ride the motorcycle without the front mudguard. The front mudguard also acts as a brake hose
support and prevents the brake hose from fouling the wheel when braking.
Position the front mudguard (4) and refit the retaining bolts (2) with the washers (3).
Locate the front brake hose grommet (A) in the mudguard clip (1).

Front mudguard

Removal of the throttle cable 4
Reassembling the throttle control 5
2 - Hydraulic clutch control 7

Removal of the clutch master cylinder assembly 8
Refitting the clutch master cylinder assembly 9
Removal of the clutch slave cylinder 11
Refitting the clutch slave cylinder 13
3 - Front brake control 16

Removal of the front brake master cylinder 17
Refitting the front brake master cylinder 18
4 - Rear brake control 19

Disassembly of the rear brake master control 21
Refitting the rear brake control 22
5 - Gearchange control 23
Disassembly of the gearchange control 25
Refitting the gearchange control 26
0Controls - Devices
file:///C|/1098/wsm/usa/1098S_07_F_IND_00.25.1.html [15-8-2008 0:12:15]

Throttle twistgrip
1 - Throttle twistgrip
1 Throttle twistgrip
2 Handlebar grips
3 Plug
4 Circlip
5 Throttle opening cable
6 Throttle closing cable
7 Bolt
1098 HALF-HANDLEBARS - SHOCK-ADSORBER

1098S HALF-HANDLEBARS - SHOCK-ADSORBER
Important
file:///C|/1098/wsm/usa/1098S_07_F_01_6_00.26.1.html (1 of 4) [15-8-2008 0:12:15]

Throttle twistgrip
Adjusting the throttle cable

For instructions on how to adjust the throttle cable, see Sect. D 4, Adjusting the throttle cable.
Removal of the throttle cable

Remove the end plug (3) from the handlebar.
Peel back the rubber sleeve (A) protecting the throttle control cables.
Undo the screws (7) of the twistgrip (1) and open the housing.
Disconnect the throttle opening (5) and closing (6) cables by unhooking the cable ends (B) from their seats.
Remove the throttle twistgrip (1) from the right-hand handlebar.
Notes
To renew the throttle cables, disconnect them from the throttle body as described in Sect. L 6, (Removal of the airbox

Throttle twistgrip
and throttle body).

Replacement throttle cables are supplied complete with adjusters.
Reassembling the throttle control

Lubricate the ends of the throttle cables (5) and (6) and the twistgrip race with the recommended grease.
To refit the throttle control components, proceed in inverse order to the disassembly procedure, making sure that the
throttle covers locate in the reference hole (C) in the handlebar.
Notes
Refer to the figures at the end of the chapter for correct routing of the throttle control cables.
Throttle cable routing

Throttle twistgrip

Hydraulic clutch control
2 - Hydraulic clutch control
1 Clutch master cylinder

2 Lever
3 Bleed valve
4 Dust cap
5 Banjo bolt
6 Clutch control hose
7 Bolt
8 Rubber mounting
9 Bracket
10 Bolt
11 Cover
12 Fluid reservoir assembly
13 Nut
14 Hose clip
15 Hose
16 Banjo bolt
17 Sealing washer
18 Bolt

19 Microswitch
20 Clutch pushrod
21 O-ring
22 O-ring
23 Clutch slave cylinder
24 Bolt
25 Adjuster screw
26 Circlip
27 Banjo bolt
1098 CLUTCH CONTROL

1098S CLUTCH CONTROL
Important
Removal of the clutch master cylinder assembly
Warning
The clutch master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing of the clutch master cylinder (1) due to the safety-
critical nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul of these critical safety components can endanger rider and
passenger safety.
Maintenance operations of the master cylinder are limited to replacing the following parts: control lever, reservoir
unit, and master cylinder fasteners.

Drain the clutch system D 4, Draining the clutch hydraulic
circuit
Unscrew the banjo bolt (16) recovering the sealing washers (17), to release the clutch master cylinder assembly (1)
from the clutch control hose (6).
Unscrew the two clamp bolts (18) securing the clutch master cylinder assembly to the handlebar.

Refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this section for indications on disassembly and replacement of the
brake unit components.
Refitting the clutch master cylinder assembly

Fit the clutch master cylinder (1), locating the pin on the cylinder body in the hole (A) in the handlebar.
Tighten the retaining bolts (18) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings), in the sequence 1-2-1.
Locate the hose (6) and sealing washers (17) on the master cylinder (1) and secure with the banjo bolt (16), but do
not tighten at this stage.

Warning
An incorrectly positioned hose can cause clutch faults and interfere with moving parts.
For the positioning of the clutch hose (6) and retaining clips, see the illustration at the end of this section.
Locate the hose (6) as shown in the figure, then tighten the banjo bolt (16) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame
torque settings).

Fill the clutch system D 4, Filling the clutch circuit
Removal of the clutch slave cylinder
Warning
The clutch slave cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the internal components of the slave cylinder (23)
due to the safety-critical nature of the unit.
Incorrect overhaul of these critical safety components can endanger rider and passenger safety.
The only components that should be renewed are the complete clutch slave unit, the bleed valve, the O-ring seal and
the clutch pushrod assembly.

Drain the clutch system D 4, Draining the clutch hydraulic
circuit
Remove the left-hand fairing E 2, Removal of the side fairings

Undo the three bolts (24) securing the clutch slave cylinder (23) to the engine.
Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the crankcase, taking care to recover the internal O-ring (22).
Remove the dust cap (4) and the bleed valve (3) and unscrew the banjo bolt (5), taking care to recover the sealing
washers (17): the unit (23) is now disconnected from hose (6).
Push in the piston to force out all the fluid from inside the cap.
The clutch pushrod (20) can now be removed. Inspect both O-rings (21) for wear and renew them if necessary.

Refitting the clutch slave cylinder

Grease and refit the clutch pushrod (20) with the two O-rings (21).
Lubricate the seal (22) and locate it along with the slave cylinder (23) in the crankcase.

Locate the hose (6) on the slave cylinder (23), ensuring that the hose end fitting is correctly positioned relative to the
slave cylinder.
Warning
An incorrectly positioned hose can cause clutch faults and interfere with moving parts.
Position the two sealing washers (17) and tighten the banjo bolt (5) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).
Refit the bleed valve (3) and the dust cap (4).
Refer to the diagram on the following page for correct positioning of the hose retaining clips.

Fill the clutch system D 4, Filling the clutch circuit
Refit the left-hand fairing E 2, Refitting the side fairings
Positioning of the clutch hose


Front brake control
3 - Front brake control
1 Front brake master cylinder

2 Brake lever pedal
3 Banjo bolt
4 Sealing washer, thickness 1
5 Microswitch
6 Elbow fitting
7 Pin
8 Upper clamp
9 Bolt
10 Bolt
11 Reservoir bracket
12 Rubber mounting
13 Bolt
14 Fluid reservoir cover
16 Hose clip
17 Reservoir-master cylinder hose
18 Nut

Front brake control
19 Calipers–master cylinder hose
1098 FRONT BRAKE

1098S FRONT BRAKE
Important
Removal of the front brake master cylinder
Warning
The brake master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the safety critical
nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul of this safety-critical component can endanger rider safety.
Maintenance operations on these units are limited to renewal of the following parts: control lever, fluid reservoir
assembly and relative fasteners and master cylinder fasteners.

Drain the braking system D 4, Draining the brake circuit
Disconnect the brake hose from the G 3, Removal of the front brake
master cylinder unit system
Unscrew the bolts (9) securing the mounting clamp (8) and then remove the front brake master cylinder assembly (1)
from the handlebar.
For disassembly of components of the master cylinder unit (1), refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this
chapter.
When reconnecting the hoses, install the hose end fitting (3) with the sealing washers (4) and tighten the banjo bolt
to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Front brake control
Refitting the front brake master cylinder

Locate the mounting clamp (8) of the complete master cylinder assembly (1) aligning it with the locating grub screws
on the handlebar.
Tighten the bolts (9) of the mounting clamp (8) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings), in the
sequence 1-2-1.
If any work has been carried out on hose (19), follow the instructions given in Sect. G 3, Refitting the front brake
system.

Reconnect the brake hose to the G 3, Refitting the front brake system
master cylinder
Fill the brake circuit D 4, Fill the brake system with fluid

Rear brake control
4 - Rear brake control
1 Support
2 Bolt
3 Washer
4 Spring
5 Switch
6 Brake lever pedal
7 Bolt
8 Adjuster screw
9 Pedal pivot bolt
10 Bush
11 O-ring
12 Rubber
13 Pin
14 Banjo bolt
15 Nut
16 Rear brake master cylinder
17 Clamp
18 Pushrod

Rear brake control
19 Bolt
20 Ball joint
21 Hose
22 Banjo bolt
23 Sealing washer, thickness 1
24 Bolt
26 Plug
27 Rear brake hose
1098 REAR BRAKE

1098S REAR BRAKE
Important
Removal of the complete gearchange control

Remove the right-hand fairing E 2, Removal of the side fairings
Warning
The brake master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the safety critical
nature of this component.
Incorrect overhaul of this critical safety component can endanger the rider and passenger.
Maintenance operations on these units are limited to renewal of the following parts: control lever, fluid reservoir
assembly and relative fasteners and master cylinder fasteners.
Disconnect the rear brake light switch (5) from main wiring (Sect. P 1, Plate 24).
Unscrew the banjo bolt (22) from the master cylinder (16) and withdraw the hose (27). Recover the sealing washers
(23).
Unscrew the bolt (2) securing the master cylinder bracket (1) to the engine.
Unscrew the bolt (9) securing the pedal (6) and bracket to the engine.

Rear brake control
Remove the brake fluid reservoir (26) complete with the hose (21) from the frame by unscrewing the bolt (24).
Remove the complete rear brake control.
Disassembly of the rear brake master control

The brake master cylinder is supplied only as a complete unit; internal components cannot be replaced.
To disassemble the master cylinder's outer parts, follow the indications given in the exploded view at the beginning of
this section.
If the bush (10) inside the brake pedal (6) needs replacing, drive the replacement bush into place using a press. The
bush must be seated 2 mm below the pedal's outer face.
To disassemble the various parts of the system, refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this chapter.
Warning
After working on the rear brake control, check the operation of the brake pedal as described in Sect. D 4, Adjusting
the position of the gearchange and rear brake pedals.

Rear brake control
Refitting the rear brake control

To refit the assembly, carry out the removal operations in reverse order, applying the recommended threadlocker to
the bolts (2) and (9).
Important
When refitting the brake master cylinder to the engine, take care to position the brake lever return spring (4)
correctly.
Notes
If the master cylinder-caliper hose (27) and the master cylinder–reservoir hose (21) are to be renewed, take care to
position the hose unions on the master cylinder correctly.
Install the sealing washers (23) on either side of the end fitting of the hose (27) and connect to the master cylinder.
Position the hose end fitting as shown in the figure and tighten the banjo bolt (22) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,

Refit the right-hand fairing E 2, Refitting the side fairings

Gearchange control
5 - Gearchange control
1 Gearchange pedal
2 Bush
3 Rubber
4 Bolt
5 Pivot bolt
6 O-ring
7 Ball joint
8 Nut
9 Gearchange lever tie-rod
10 Nut
11 Ball joint
12 Gearchange lever tie-rod assembly
13 Bolt
14 Gearchange pedal
15 Nut
16 Washer
17 Bolt

Gearchange control
1098 FRAME
1098S FRAME
Important
Removal of the complete gearchange control

Unscrew and remove the pivot bolt (5) securing the gear pedal (1) and recover the O-ring seals (6).
Unscrew and remove the bolt (13) securing the lever to the gearbox shaft.
Withdraw the lever (14) complete with the gearchange control assembly.
Notes
Mark the position of lever (14) relative to the gear selector shaft.
To remove the lever (14) from the gearchange assembly, unscrew the bolt (17), recover the nut (15), and then slide
off the lever (14).
Disassembly of the gearchange control

Gearchange control
Refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this section for indications on disassembly and renewal of gear change
control components.
If the bush (2) inside the pedal (1) needs replacing, drive the replacement bush into place using a press. The bush
must be seated 2 mm below the outer face of the pedal.
Warning
After working on the gearchange control, check the position of the gear pedal.
To adjust the position of the gear pedal, follow the instructions provided in Sect. D 4, Adjusting the position of the
gearchange and rear brake pedals.
Refitting the gearchange control

To refit the gearchange control, reverse the operations of the removal procedure.
In particular, grease the O-rings (6), apply threadlocker to the bolt (13), pivot bolt (5) and bolt (17) and then tighten
them to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Refit the left-hand fairing E 2, Refitting the side fairings

Wheels - Suspension - Brakes

1 - Front wheel 4
Removal of the front wheel 5
Overhauling the front wheel 7
Refitting the front wheel 10
2 - Front fork (1098) 12

Removal of the front forks 1098 13
Overhauling the front forks 1098 15
Refitting the front forks 1098 22
2 - Front fork 1098S 25

Removal of the front forks 1098S 26
Overhauling the front forks 1098S 26
Refitting the front forks 1098S 37
3 - Hydraulic front brake 38

Maintenance operations 39
Removal of the front brake system 40
Refitting the brake discs 42
Overhauling the front brake components 43
Refitting the front brake system 44
4 - Rear wheel 47
Removal of the rear wheel 48
Overhauling the rear wheel 49
Refitting the rear wheel 50
5 - Rear swingarm 51
Removal of the swingarm 56
Inspecting the swingarm pivot shaft 58
Overhauling the rear swingarm 59
Refitting the swingarm 63
6 - Hydraulic rear brake 65
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Wheels - Suspension - Brakes
Removal of the rear brake caliper 66

Removal of the rear brake disc 67
Refitting the rear brake caliper 68
7 - Rear suspension 69
Rear suspension system 70
Overhauling the rear shock absorber 1098 72
Overhauling the rear shock absorber 1098S 73
Removal of the rear suspension rocker arm 74
Overhauling the rear suspension rocker arm 75
Disassembly and overhaul of the shock absorber tie-rod 76
Reinstalling the rear suspension 77
8 - Final drive 79
Inspecting the final drive 80
Removal of the front sprocket 81
Refitting the front sprocket 83
Renewal of the rear sprocket 85
Refitting the rear sprocket 86
Washing the chain 87
Lubricating the chain 87
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Front wheel
1 - Front wheel
1 Nut
2 Washer
3 Left spacer
4 Oil seal
5 Bearing
6 Front wheel rim
7 Inner spacer
8 Bolt
9 Right spacer
10 Front wheel axle
11 Valve
1098 FRONT FORK

1098 FRONT AND REAR WHEELS
1098S FRONT FORK
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Front wheel
1098S FRONT AND REAR WHEELS
Important
Removal of the front wheel

Remove the front brake calipers complete with hoses by undoing the bolts (A).
Warning
Do not operate the brake lever when the calipers are removed. This can cause the brake pistons to be expelled.
Support the bike so that the front wheel is raised from the ground.
Loosen and remove the nut (1) on left side of the axle.
Recover the washer (2).

Front wheel
Loosen the axle clamp bolts (8) on the ends of the fork legs.
Working from the left side, use a plastic mallet to drive the wheel axle (10) out from the opposite side.
Remove the wheel and recover the spacers (3) and (9).

Front wheel
Overhauling the front wheel
Wheel bearings
Before checking the dimensions, check the wear on wheel bearings. Check for wear by hand after cleaning and
degreasing the bearings in their seats.
Turn the inner race.
Check the amount of radial and axial play. Excessive play will cause vibration and make the bike unstable; in this
case the bearings must be renewed.
To remove the bearings (5) and the seals (4) from the wheel hub, proceed as follows.
Position a drift (A) against the inner race of the bearing (5).
Tap with a hammer to drive out the bearing (5) and the oil seal (4).
Apply the drift at different points to keep the bearing square during removal.
Important

Front wheel
Once removed, the used bearings and the oil seals must not be refitted.
Before fitting new bearings, check that the housing is clean and free from scoring and damage.
Grease the bearing seat and then push the new bearing into its seat.
Using a tubular drift (B) that only bears on the outer race of the bearing, drive the bearing (5) fully into its seat.
Use the same method to install the oil seals (4).

Ensure that spacer (7) is fitted between the two wheel bearings.
Notes
Wheels must be rebalanced after repair, maintenance and overhaul operations.
Inspecting the wheel axle

Check the wheel axle for straightness.
Roll the axle on a reference surface and measure maximum distortion using a feeler gauge (see Sect. C 1.1, Front
wheel).

Front wheel
Overhauling the wheel

After you have checked the bearings, check the rim as follows.
Visually inspect the rim for cracks, scoring and deformation; change the wheel if damaged.
Insert the axle in the wheel and mount it on two fixed reference blocks.
Using a dial gauge, measure rim runout and out-of-round relative to the wheel axle (see Sect. C 1.1, Front wheel).
If the values measured are not within the tolerance limits, renew the wheel.
Refitting the front wheel

When all the necessary inspections have been completed, refit the wheel as follows.
Lubricate and fit the spacers (3) and (9) to the oil seals on the sides of the wheel hub.
Install the complete wheel between the fork legs.

Lubricate the shank and thread of the wheel axle (10).
Fit the service tool no. 8000.70139 on the wheel axle (10).
Drive the axle (10) fully home into the wheel hub, inserting the locating peg of the service tool in the special notches
at the bottom end of the fork.

Front wheel
Fit the washer (2) on the end of the axle.

Grease the thread and the underside of the head of the axle lock nut (1), then screw it on.
Tighten the nut (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Refit the front brake calipers as described in Sect. G 3, Removal of the front brake system.
Check that the brake discs turn freely inside the calipers.
Before tightening the axle clamp bolts (8), lower the bike to the ground and press up and down on the handlebars to
load the suspension so the fork legs will become properly seated onto the wheel axle.
Lubricate the bolts (8).
Tighten the bolts (8) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings), in the sequence 1-2-1.

Front fork (1098)
2 - Front fork (1098)
1 Bolt
2 Bolt
3 Top yoke
4 Bottom yoke
5 Left fork leg assembly
6 Right fork leg assembly
7 Locating ring
8 Damper assembly
9 Oil seal
10 Spring
11 Upper spacer
12 Spacer
13 Washer
14 Top cap assembly
15 Circlip
16 Washer
17 Dust cap
18 Bolt
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Front fork (1098)
19 Adjuster screw
20 Special washer
21 Right inner tube assembly
22 Dust cap
23 Oil seal
24 Circlip
25 Bush
26 Outer tube
27 Bush
28 Left inner tube assembly
29 Ring
30 Bolt
31 Left handlebar
32 Right handlebar

1098 FRONT FORK
Important
Removal of the front forks 1098

Before removing the front forks, it is necessary to remove the following parts:

Remove the front brake calipers G 3, Removal of the front brake
system
Remove the front mudguard E 4, Removal of the front mudguard
Remove the front wheel G 1, Removal of the front wheel
Remove the headlight shell E 1, Removal of the headlight shell
Important
Not all the components described in this chapter are available as individual replacement parts: however they are
indicated for clearer explanation of the procedure.
Loosen the clamp bolts (1) holding the fork legs to the top yoke (3).

Front fork (1098)
Loosen the clamp bolts (2) securing the fork legs to the bottom yoke (4).
Remove the front brake hose guide clamp (A), by undoing bolt (B) and nut (C).

Front fork (1098)
Slacken off the bolts (30) securing the handlebar clamps (31) and (32) to the fork legs.
Withdraw the fork legs (5) and (6) downwards in order to carry out to all the necessary overhaul operations.
Overhauling the front forks 1098
Notes
It is advisable to loosen the top cap (14) when the fork is still fitted to the motorcycle.
Notes
The special tools required for front fork overhaul are listed in Sect. C 4, Service tools for the frame.
Loosen the preload adjuster (A) before unscrewing the top cap (14).
Unscrew the top cap (14) complete with the rebound damping adjuster.

Front fork (1098)
Disassembly of the front fork

Fit service tool no. 88713.0957, engaging the pins (B) in the holes in the upper spacer, and secure in place with the
screw (C).
Push the tool down to compress the spring and then fit the tool spacer (D) under the cartridge lock nut (8).
Apply a wrench to the flats (E) and hold the lock nut steady to loosen the top cap (14).

Front fork (1098)
Remove top cap assembly (14) complete with the collar (12) and the washer (13).
Fit service tool no. 88713.0958 and screw it onto the damper rod.
Push downwards to overcome the force of the spring and remove the spacer (D).

Front fork (1098)
Remove the service tool no. 88713.0957 and slide out the upper spacer (11).
Remove the spring (10) and pump the outer tube (26) and the damper (8) to expel the oil from the fork.
Warning
This movement generates pressure so that the oil will be rapidly expelled from the fork.
Aim the jet of oil into a previously prepared container and avoid contact with fork oil.
Clamp the inner tube (28) in a vice with soft-faced jaws.

Unscrew the screw (18).

Front fork (1098)
Remove the adjuster screw (18) and recover the seal (16).
Remove the complete damper assembly (8) and locating ring (7).
Slide the dust seal (22) off the outer tube (26), prising it off with a screwdriver.
Remove the circlip (29).

Front fork (1098)
Important
Take care not to damage the outer tube (26) or inner tube (21).
To separate the outer tube (26) from the inner tube (21), pull the inner tube sharply outwards repeatedly to gradually
displace the bottom bush (25).
Insert the tip of a screwdriver in the slit in the bush (27) and open it up sufficiently to slide the bush off the inner
tube.
Remove the following parts from the inner tube (21):

- bottom bush (25)
- ring (24)
- oil seal (23)
- circlip (29)
- dust seal (22)

Front fork (1098)
Inspection of the adjustable front fork

Place the spring on a flat surface and measure the free length (L).
Service limit:
270 mm.
Renew the spring if the length is not within the specified limit.
Inspect the outer surfaces of both fork inner tubes and the internal surfaces of both outer tubes. They must be free
from scoring, steps, or dents.
Check that outer tubes are straight:
maximum permissible error 0.10 mm.
Whenever the inner tube is removed from the outer tube it is good practice to renew the bushes (25) and (27).
Clean off any oil from spring (10) and spring joint (11) before assembly.
Notes
Install the spring (10), ensuring that the end with tighter coils is towards the bottom of the fork.

Front fork (1098)
Fit the following components:

spring (10),
- upper spacer (11),
- spacer (12),
- washer (13).
Fit tool no. 88713.0957 (previously used for removal) into the lateral hole of upper spacer (11).
Push the tool down and position the spacer (D) under the lock nut of damper (8).
Remove tool no. 88713.0958.
Screw the top cap (14) onto the damper (8).
Using a hex wrench, hold the rebound damping adjuster (E) and tighten the top cap to 30 to 40 Nm.
Remove spacer (D) by pushing tool (C, no. 88713.0957) downwards.
Warning
The adjuster (A) on the top cap (14) should be screwed fully onto the thread of the damper (8).
Lift the outer tube (26) and tighten the top cap (14) to a torque of 30 to 40 Nm.
Set the adjusters according to riding requirements.

Front fork (1098)
Refitting the front forks 1098

Refit the fork legs, positioning them at the height shown in the figure relative to the upper surface of the bottom yoke.
Locate the fork legs (5) and (6) in the bottom yoke (4) and then fit the handlebars (31) and (32).

Front fork (1098)
Locate the fork legs (5) and (6) in the top yoke (3).
To ensure the handlebars are correctly positioned, check that the end of the pin (A) engages the corresponding slot
(B) in the top yoke (3).
Tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) the clamp bolts (1) and (2) securing the legs to the
bottom yoke (4) and to the top yoke (3).
Apply the recommended grease to the bolts (30).
Tighten the handlebar bolts (30) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Important
If the clamp bolts (1) and (2) were removed on disassembly, smear the threads with the specified grease before
tightening.
Warning
Do not use the motorcycle without the front mudguard fitted to avoid the risk of the brake pipes fouling the wheel on
braking.

Front fork (1098)
Refit the front brake hose guide clamp (A) with bolt (B) and nut (C).
Important
The tooth D in the clamp must be fitted in the notch in the bottom yoke.
Notes
The clamp (A) differs in diameter and part number, according to whether it is for the forks of the 1098 or the 1098S.

Front fork (1098)
Refit any parts removed from the frame:

Refit the headlight shell E 1, Refitting the headlight shell
Refit the front wheel G 1, Refitting the front wheel
Refit the front mudguard E 4, Refitting the front mudguard
Refit the front brake calipers G 3, Refitting the front brake system

Front fork 1098S
2 - Front fork 1098S
1 Bolt
2 Bolt
3 Top yoke
4 Bottom yoke
5 Left fork leg assembly
6 Right fork leg assembly
7 Adjuster screw
8 Bolt
9 Left handlebar
10 Right handlebar
11 Special washer

1098S FRONT FORK
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Front fork 1098S
Important
Removal of the front forks 1098S

Remove the forks as described for the 1098 (Sect. G 2, Removal of the front forks 1098).
Overhauling the front forks 1098S
Disassembly of the front forks 1098S

Unscrew the upper plug, using service tool no. Öhlins 00797-04.
Slacken the locknut of the upper plug retaining the damper rod.

Front fork 1098S
Remove the spring preload tube.
Remove the rebound damping adjuster rod and then the locknut.

Front fork 1098S
Turn the leg upside down to let the oil run out.
Remove the spacer and spring.

Front fork 1098S
Recover the tapered pin and respective spring.
Separate the leg from the outer tube.

Front fork 1098S
It is now possible to renew the seals.

Remove the dust seal from its seat in the outer tube.
Remove the circlip.
Remove the oil seal and spacer.
With the aid of service tool no. Öhlins 01757-01 and bush no. Öhlins 01559-07, remove the first slide bush.

Front fork 1098S
Then remove the second slide bush, using a plastic mallet.

Front fork 1098S
Re-assembling the fork 1098S

To refit the slide bushes, use bush no. Öhlins 01759-08 and insert it in tool no. Öhlins 01757-01, with the aid of a
plastic mallet.
Warning
First refit the slide bush with the smaller outer diameter, then fit the slide bush with the larger outer diameter.

Front fork 1098S
Insert the spacer and oil seal with tool no. Öhlins 01758-04.

Front fork 1098S
Fit the circlip.
Fit the dust seal.

Front fork 1098S
It is now possible to join the leg with the outer tube.
Insert the tapered pin and respective spring in the damper rod and then insert the rebound adjuster rod in the
damper rod.
Notes
Take care to fit the tapered pin the right way up, with the conical part facing the bottom of the fork.
Fill the fork with new oil to the correct level.

Front fork 1098S
Move the damper rod up and down until oil comes out.
Insert the spring and spacer.
Fit the locknut and pre-load spacer.

Front fork 1098S
Refit the upper plug fully home and tighten with the locknut to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Now tighten the upper plug to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Front fork 1098S
Refitting the front forks 1098S

Refit the forks as described for refitting the forks of the 1098 (Sect. G 2, Refitting the front forks 1098).

Hydraulic front brake
3 - Hydraulic front brake
1 Banjo bolt
2 Sealing washer
3 Calipers–master cylinder hose
4 Clamp
5 Dust cap
6 Bleed valve
7 Banjo bolt
8 Spacer
9 Bolt
10 Right brake caliper
11 Left brake caliper
12 Set of 4 brake pads
13 Brake disc
14 Bolt
15 Front brake hose
16 Washer
17 Rivet
18 Rubber

19 Mudguard
20 Clip
1098 FRONT BRAKE

1098 FAIRING
1098S FRONT BRAKE
1098S FRONT AND REAR WHEELS
1098S FAIRING
Important
Warning
Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paintwork. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental contact,
wash the affected area with abundant running water and consult a doctor if necessary.
For maintenance instructions (brake pad wear check and renewal, brake fluid change, etc.) refer to Sect. D 4,
Maintenance operations.
Removal of the front brake system

Unscrew the banjo bolt (1) securing the brake hose to the master cylinder and recover the sealing washers (2).
Remove the hose (15) from the rubber grommet (18) on the mudguard and release the hose (3) from the clip (20).

Withdraw the hose (3) from the clamp (4) on the bottom yoke.
Warning
If the clip (4) is damaged while removing the front brake hose, it must be replaced (Sect. E 4, Removal of the front
mudguard).
In the absence of the restraint provided by the clip, the brake hose could come into contact with the tyre during
braking and thus lead to accidents.
Remove the brake master cylinder (Sect. F 3, Removal of the front brake master cylinder).
Unscrew the two retaining bolts (9) securing the left front brake caliper (11) to the fork leg.
Repeat the operation for the right brake caliper (10).
Recover the spacers (8).

Unscrew the banjo bolts (7) from both calipers and recover the sealing washers (2).
Detach the front brake calipers from the hose (3) and (15).
Refitting the brake discs

The front brake discs consist of an inner carrier, which is mounted to the wheel, and an outer rotor. Both parts must
be changed together as a pair.
Remove the front wheel (Sect. G 1, Removal of the front wheel).

Undo the bolts (14) securing the brake discs to the wheel and remove the discs (13) from both sides of the wheel.
Overhauling the front brake components
Important
Critical safety components. The brake caliper manufacturer advises against any servicing of the internal components

of calipers. Incorrect overhaul of this safety-critical component can endanger rider safety.
Operations should be limited to renewal of the pads, fasteners and the bleed valve assembly.
Refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this section for indications on renewal of the above components.
The brake disc must be clean without any signs of rust, oil, grease or dirt and no deep scoring.
For brake disc wear inspection, adhere to the service limits given in Sect. C 1.1, Hydraulic brakes.
Refitting the front brake system

Before refitting the brake disc to the wheel, clean all contact surfaces thoroughly and smear a medium strength
threadlocker on the threads of retaining bolts (14).
Screw in the bolts (14) securing the front brake disc (13) to the front wheel in this sequence: 1-3-5-2-4.
Tighten the screws to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Refit the wheel to the motorcycle (Sect. G 1, Refitting the front wheel).
When reconnecting the brake hose to the caliper or master cylinder, make sure to install the sealing washers (2)
either side of the hose end fitting.
After positioning the fitting correctly, tighten down the banjo bolt (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).
Reconnect the hoses (3) and (15) to the front brake calipers (10) and (11) and tighten the bolts (7) to their specified
Notes
Make sure that internal hose fitting (3) and external hose fitting (15) are installed to the right brake caliper (10).

Fit the right caliper (10) over the disc.

Locate the hose (3) in the grommet (18).
Apply the recommended grease to the bolts (9).
Hand tighten the bolts (9) with their spacers (8) to secure the calipers to the fork legs.
Locate the brake master cylinder-lever assembly (Sect. F 3, Refitting the front brake master cylinder).
Operate the brake lever (A) two or three times to pressurise the circuit so that the brake pads are brought into
contact with the brake disk.
Hold the lever pressed towards the grip and tighten the caliper bolts (9) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame
torque settings).
Repeat the procedure to refit the other brake caliper.

Insert the front brake hose (3) in the clip (20) located on the front mudguard and in the clamp on the bottom yoke
(4).



Rear wheel
4 - Rear wheel
1 Right-hand wheel nut

2 Washer
3 Bush
4 Valve
5 Wheel
1098 FRONT BRAKE

1098 FAIRING
1098s FRONT BRAKE
1098s FRONT AND REAR WHEELS
1098s FAIRING

Rear wheel
Important
Removal of the rear wheel

Place the motorcycle on the rear service stand and engage 1st gear.
Using a suitable socket, loosen the wheel nut (1).
Fully unscrew the wheel nut (1), then slide of the washer (2) and the bush (3).
Remove the rear wheel from the motorcycle.
Overhauling the rear wheel

Proceed with inspection of the rear wheel.
As the rear wheel has no bearings, it should be supported on the service tool part no. 88713.1073.
Notes
This service tool can also be used to install the wheel on a balancing machine.

Rear wheel
Overhauling the wheel

Inspect the wheel as follows:
Visually inspect the wheel for cracks, scoring and deformation; change the wheel if damaged.
Fit the wheel on service too part no. 88713.1073 using the original fasteners.
Using a dial gauge, measure rim run-out and out-of-round relative to the wheel shaft axis (see Sect. C 1.1, Rear
wheel).
If the values measured are not within the tolerance limits, renew the wheel.
Refitting the rear wheel

Clean the mating surfaces and grease the threaded end of the stub axle with the recommended grease.
Fit the wheel, aligning it with the stub axle and the driving pins.
Fit the tapered bush (3) and the washer (2), and hand tighten the wheel nut (1).

Rear wheel
Tighten the wheel nut to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and check that the hole in the nut is
aligned with one of the holes in the stub axle.
If not, tighten the nut slightly until the holes are aligned.
1

Rear swingarm
5 - Rear swingarm
1 Swingarm pivot shaft

2 Pin
3 Bolt
4 Rear swingarm
5 Nut
6 Washer
7 Upper drive chain slider
8 Lower drive chain slider
9 Bolt
10 Bolt
11 Washer
12 Left spacer
13 Circlip
14 Washer
15 O-ring
16 Caliper mounting bracket
17 Eccentric hub
18 Spacer

Rear swingarm
19 Bearing
20 Spacer
21 Right spacer
22 Bush
23 Oil seal
24 Inner ring
25 Roller bearing
1098 REAR WHEEL PIN

1098 REAR FORK
1098S REAR WHEEL PIN
1098S REAR FORK
Important
Removal of the rear eccentric hub

Before removing the eccentric hub, you must first remove the following parts:

Remove the rear wheel G 4, Removal of the rear wheel
Remove the rear sprocket G 8, Renewal of the rear sprocket
Remove the rear brake caliper G 6, Removal of the rear brake caliper
Slacken off the bolts (3).

Withdraw the spacer (18) and the inner ring (24) on the chain side and withdraw the stub axle complete with brake
disc from the opposite side.

Rear swingarm
Remove the circlip (13) on the wheel side of the eccentric hub.
Remove the washer (14), the caliper mounting bracket (16) with the O-rings (15).

Rear swingarm
Remove the other washer (14).
Withdraw the eccentric hub (17) from the chain side of the swingarm.
Notes
The rear hub is a component particularly critical to the dynamic safety of the motorcycle. For this reason, any
overhaul of the internal components of the hub is strictly forbidden. The hub is available as complete assembly, part
no. 819.2.042.1A.
Removal of the rear eccentric hub

Refitting is the reverse of removal, with attention to the following points.
Before refitting, apply the recommended grease to the seat on the eccentric hub (17) of the caliper mounting bracket
(16) on which the rings (15), also greased, will be located.

Rear swingarm
If the caliper bracket locating pin (2) was removed, apply the recommended threadlocker on reassembly.
Refit the washers (14) with their square edges facing the eccentric hub.

Rear swingarm
Apply the recommended grease to the bolts (3) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings)
in the sequence 1-2-1.

Refit the rear brake caliper G 6, Refitting the rear brake caliper
Refit the rear sprocket G 8, Refitting the rear sprocket
Refit the rear wheel G 4, Refitting the rear wheel
Tension the drive chain as indicated in the paragraph “Adjusting the chain tension” in Sect. D 4.
Removal of the swingarm

Before removing the parts in question, you must first remove the following parts:

Remove the rear sprocket G 8, Renewal of the rear sprocket
Remove the rear brake caliper G 6, Removal of the rear brake caliper
Remove the shock absorber and tie- G 7, Removal of the rear suspension
rod from the swingarm rocker arm
Remove the rear hub as described in “Removal of the rear eccentric hub” in this section.
Free the rear brake hose from the lower chain slider (8) and the speed sensor wiring by unscrewing the bolts (9).
Disconnect the speed sensor wiring connector (A) from the main wiring loom.

Rear swingarm
You can check the play in the swingarm bearings while the swingarm (4) still installed on the motorcycle frame
Grasp the rear of the swingarm (4) and try to move it in the four directions shown by the arrows.
Any abnormal movement is sign of worn bearings that could cause instability when riding.
Refer to the indications for checking swingarm bearing play in Sect. G 1, Wheel bearings.
Once the play in the swingarm bearings has been checked, the swingarm (4) may be removed from the motorcycle.
Restrain the swingarm pivot shaft (1) on the left side of the motorcycle while undoing the bolt (5) on the opposite
side: recover the washer (6).

Rear swingarm
Use the drift 88713.1074 to fully extract the swingarm pivot shaft.
Remove the swingarm (4) assembly from the frame.
Detach the upper chain slider (7) from the swingarm (4) by unscrewing the bolts (9) and (10), recovering the washer
(11).
Inspecting the swingarm pivot shaft

Before refitting the swingarm pivot shaft (1), check it carefully for distortion.
Roll the shaft on a reference surface and measure maximum distortion using a feeler gauge (see Sect. C 1.1, Rear
wheel).

Rear swingarm
Overhauling the rear swingarm

Inside the swingarm (4), at the point at which it pivots on the frame, there are a pair of ball bearing races (19) on the
right-hand side and a pair of roller bearings (25), with seal rings (23), on the left-hand side.
To change the bearings, proceed as follows.

From the right-hand side of the swingarm, remove the spacers (21) and (12) and the two bushes (22) from the left-
hand side.
Remove the ball bearings (19), seal rings (23) and roller bearings (25) with a suitable punch and press. Support the
swingarm and take care not to damage the bearing bores.
Important
Once disturbed, the bearings (19), seal rings (23) and roller bearings (25) must not be reinstalled.

Rear swingarm
Heat the entire swingarm up to 150 °C and support it.

Inset the new roller bearings (25) in the serice tool part no. 88713.1068 and install them from the outside into the
bore on the left–hand side of the swingarm.
Drive them in until the tool is fully inserted into the swingarm.
Use the same tool to fit the new seal rings (23), positioned as shown in the sectional view, so that they seat against
the newly installed roller bearings.

Rear swingarm
For installing the ball bearing races (19) you will need tool part no. 88713.2409 comprised of:
(A) – drift for internal bearings;
(B) – drift for external bearings;
(C) – guide pin.
Fit a new bearing (19) with the internal spacer (20) onto the drift (A) and position it on the interior of the right-hand
side support of the swingarm.
Insert the guide pin (C) into the previously mounted roller bearings and insert the other end in the bore in the tool
(A).
Drive the bearing (19) fully into the swingarm.
Fit the other new bearing (19) at the outer end of tool (A).
Using tool (A) as a stop, use tool (B) to drive the external bearing up against spacer (20): remove the tools.
Before refitting the swingarm (4), grease the ball bearings (19), roller bearings (25) and seal rings (23) with the
recommended grease.

Rear swingarm
Refitting the swingarm

Refit the upper chain slider (7) securing it with the bolts (9) and (10) and the washers (11).
Refit the rear brake hose and speed sensor to the swingarm (4), securing them with the lower chain slider (8) and
tightening the bolts (9).
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the bolts (9) and (10) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame
torque settings).

Rear swingarm
Locate the swingarm (4) on the frame.

Lubricate the swingarm pivot shaft (1) with the recommended grease and drive it home in the frame.
On the opposite side of the bike, secure the swingarm pivot shaft (1) with the nut (5) after applying the
recommended grease, interposing the washers (6).
Connect the speed sensor to the main wiring loom.

Reconnect the shock absorber and G 7, Reinstalling the rear suspension
tie-rod to the swingarm
Refit the rear brake caliper G 6, Refitting the rear brake caliper
Refit the rear sprocket G 8, Refitting the rear sprocket

Rear swingarm

Hydraulic rear brake
6 - Hydraulic rear brake
1 Bolt
2 Pin
3 Bolt
4 Rear brake disc
5 Spacer
6 Speed sensor
7 Bolt
8 Bolt
9 Spring washer
10 Washer
11 Rear brake caliper
12 Sealing washer
13 Banjo bolt
14 Dust cap
15 Bleed valve
16 Pad retaining pin and clip
17 Pair of brake pads

1098 REAR BRAKE

1098 REAR WHEEL PIN
1098S REAR BRAKE
Important
Removal of the rear brake caliper
Important
Critical safety components. The brake manufacturer advises against any servicing of the internal components of brake
calipers or the master cylinder. Incorrect overhaul of these critical safety components can endanger rider and
passenger safety.
Before removing the parts in question, you must first remove the following parts:

Remove the right-hand side fairing E 2, Removal of the side fairings
Drain the rear brake circuit D 4, Draining the brake circuit
Remove the banjo bolt securing the F 4, Removal of the complete
brake hose to the rear brake master gearchange control
cylinder
Remove the lower chain slider G 5, Removal of the swingarm
Unscrew and remove the banjo bolt (13) securing the hose (A) to the rear brake caliper and recover the sealing
washers (12).
Remove the hose (A).
Unscrew the two bolts (8) securing the rear brake caliper (11) to the caliper mounting bracket, taking care to recover
the washers (9) and (10), and remove the caliper (11).
If it is necessary to remove the caliper mounting bracket (B), refer to Sect. G 5, Removal of the rear eccentric hub.

Notes
See “Checking brake pad wear and changing brake pads” (Sect. D 4) for instructions on how to change the brake
pads.
To remove the speed sensor (6), unscrew the bolt (7) securing it to the caliper mounting bracket, taking care to
recover the spacers (5).
Only the following parts should be renewed:

Caliper: Pads, fasteners and bleed valve assembly.
Master cylinder: control pedal, bleed valve assembly, reservoir and its parts (Sect. F 4).
Refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this section for indications on renewal of the above components.
Removal of the rear brake disc

Remove the rear eccentric hub (Sect. G 5, Removal of the rear eccentric hub).
Unscrew and remove the four bolts (3) securing the brake disc to the stub axle and remove the rear brake disc (4).
If they are to be renewed, unscrew the bolts (1) from the hub and remove the locating pins (2).
The disc must be perfectly clean with no signs of rust, oil or grease deposits or other contaminants and must be free
of any deep scoring.
Refer to Sect. C 1.1, Hydraulic brakes for the brake disc wear tolerance limits.
Proceed with the refitting of the rear brake disc (4), tightening the bolts (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame
torque settings) in the sequence 1-2-3-4.
Refit the rear eccentric hub as described in Sect. G 5, Removal of the rear eccentric hub.
Refitting the rear brake caliper

If the brake hoses are renewed or if one of the components of the rear brake system have been removed, make sure
that the hose connection fittings on the master cylinder and the caliper are correctly positioned.

Warning
If incorrectly positioned, the hose can affect brake operation and foul moving parts. Position the hose as shown in the
figure.
Remember to fit the copper faced sealing washers (12) to the either of the hose end fitting the brake hose to the
caliper (11).
After positioning the union correctly, tighten the banjo bolt (13) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).
If removed, locate the speed sensor (6) on the caliper mounting bracket (B) with the spacer (5) and tighten the bolt
(7) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Notes
The gap between the sensor (6) and the brake disc bolt must be between 0.6 and 2.2 mm.
If the caliper mounting bracket (B) was removed, see Sect. G 5, Removal of the rear eccentric hub for refitting
instructions.
Fit the rear brake caliper (11) over the brake disc, aligning it with the holes in caliper mounting bracket (B).
Apply grease to the bolts (8) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) interposing the
washers (9) and (10) between the bolts and the caliper mounting bracket (B).

Remove the lower chain slider G 5, Refitting the swingarm
Remove the banjo bolt securing the F 4, Refitting the rear brake control
brake hose to the rear brake master
cylinder
Fill the rear braking system with D 4, Fill the brake system with fluid
brake fluid
Refit the right-hand side fairing E 2, Refitting the side fairings

Rear suspension
7 - Rear suspension
1 Bolt
2 Washer
3 Nut
4 Bolt
5 Spacer
6 Oil seal
7 Roller bearing
8 Rocker arm assembly
9 Bolt
10 Shock absorber
11 Bush
12 Nut
13 Ball joint
14 Tie-rod
15 Nut
16 Ball joint
17 Bolt
18 Bolt

Rear suspension
19 Tie-rod central shaft
1098 REAR SUSPENSION

1098s REAR SUSPENSION
Important
Rear suspension system

The rear suspension uses a fully adjustable progressive hydraulic monoshock (10). The system consists of an upper
rocker arm (8) and an adjustable tie-rod (14), which is fixed to the single-sided swingarm.
The swingarm pivots on the frame and the engine to achieve maximum rigidity; the rear end of the swingarm
supports the eccentric wheel hub which allows chain tension adjustment.
For adjustment of the rear shock absorber, refer to (Sect. D 4, Adjusting the rear shock absorber).
Removal of the rear shock absorber

Remove the seat cowling E 3, Removal of the side panels and
seat cowling
To remove the rear shock absorber (10) from the swingarm and from the rocker arm (14), remove the upper (9) and
lower (17) mounting bolts.

Rear suspension
Overhauling the rear shock absorber 1098

Before dismantling the shock absorber, measure the spring preload length (L). The same length must be restored on
re-assembly.

Slacken off locknut (A) and spring adjuster nut (B) with a pin wrench or special tool.
Remove the retaining ring (C) and the spring.

Rear suspension
Visually inspect the shock absorber for oil leaks and other problems.
Renew the shock absorber if necessary.
Refitting the rear shock absorber 1098

Fit the spring into its seat in the shock absorber with the tapered end towards the lower mounting.
Fit the spring retaining ring (C).
Screw in the spring adjuster nut (B) to obtain the previously measured length (L).
Notes
One full turn of the adjuster nut changes the length of the spring by 1.5 mm.
Tighten down the lock nut (A) against the adjuster (B).
Overhauling the rear shock absorber 1098S
Important
Contact an authorized ÖHLINS Service Centre in case of problems with the shock absorber.
Removal of the rear suspension rocker arm

Disconnect the top of the rear shock absorber from the rocker arm as described in “Removal of the rear shock
absorber” in this section.
Separate the tie-rod (14) and the rocker arm (8) by unscrewing the bolt (4) and recover the collars (11) from either
side of the ball joint (13).

Rear suspension
Before removing the rocker arm (8) from the frame, check the play of its internal needle roller bearings (7).
Pull and push the rear end of the rocker arm in all four directions.
If excessive play is encountered, the bearings need to be renewed.
To remove the rocker arm (8) from the frame, unscrew the nut (3) and withdraw the washer (2).
Slide out the bolt (1) and remove the rocker arm assembly (8) from the frame.

Rear suspension
Overhauling the rear suspension rocker arm
Disassembly of the rear suspension rocker arm

The rocker arm movement is obtained by needle roller bearings (7) rotating on an internal spacer (5). Two oil seals
(6) on the outer sides of the bearings keep the lubricant inside the cages.
First remove the inner spacer (5), then remove the oil seals (6) and the needle roller bearings (7) using a suitable
drift.
Important
Take care not to damage the bearing housings on the rocker arm while driving out the bearings. Once disturbed, the
oil seals (6) and needle roller bearings (7) may not be refitted.
Reassembly of the rear suspension rocker arm

Place two new needle roller bearings (7) on drift part no. 88713.1071 and lubricate with the recommended grease.
Support the rocker arm and drive in the needle roller bearings until the tool is seated against rocker arm.
Important
Make sure that the bearings are installed perfectly square in the hole. Avoid jamming. Use a press, if necessary.

Rear suspension
Fit a new oil seal (7) on the installation tool, with the metal side facing outwards, and drive it in so that it seats
against the previously installed bearing.
Repeat the above procedure for the other roller bearing (7) and the other oil seal (6).
Lubricate the bearings and oil seals with the recommended grease and insert the inner spacer (6).
Disassembly and overhaul of the shock absorber tie-rod

Unscrew and remove the upper bolt (4) and lower bolt (18).
Remove the tie-rod assembly (14).
The tie–rod (14) is comprised of a central shaft (19), two nuts (12) and (15), and two ball joints (13) and (16). Two
mounting collars (11) are located at the sides of each ball joint.

Rear suspension
After removing the collars (11), check the amount of play in the ball joint by turning the internal ring by hand:
change the ball joint if it has excessive play.
On reassembly, note that the nut (15) marked (A) has a left-hand thread: this nut is to be fitted to the end of
the rod (19) also marked (A).
The centre-to-centre distance between the two ball joints should be 166.7 mm.
When this distance is changed, the motorcycle chassis attitude will be affected.
Tighten to the prescribed torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) the nuts (12) and (15) on the rod, locking the
latter to the central closing mount.
Reinstalling the rear suspension

Lubricate the shank and thread of the bolt (1) and the underside of the head of the nut (3) with the recommended
grease.
Insert the rocker arm assembly (8) between the frame supports, as shown in the figure.
Drive the bolt (1) fully home in the frame.
Fit the nut (3) and washer (2) on the opposite side.
Restrain the nut (3) and tighten the bolt (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Rear suspension
Grease the thread and the underside of the head of the upper shock absorber bolt (9) and insert it in the rocker arm.
Position the shock absorber (10) with the reservoir at the top.
Align the upper mounting of the shock absorber with the front hole in the rocker arm and lower mounting with the
slot in the swingarm.
Grease the thread and underside of the head of the shock absorber lower mounting bolt (17), and tighten it to the
specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Rear suspension
Install the collars (11) on both the ball joints end fittings.
Install the lower end of the tie-rod (14) on the swingarm.
Grease the thread, underside and sliding surface of the lower pivot bolt (18) and insert it in the swingarm from the
right-hand side. Tighten the bolt (18) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Grease the thread and the underside of the head of the upper tie-rod bolt (4) and insert it in the rocker arm.
Insert the upper end of the tie-rod in the rocker arm and tighten the bolt (4) to its specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame
torque settings).

Refit the seat cowling E 3, Refitting the side panels and seat
cowling

Rear suspension

Final drive
8 - Final drive
1 Nut
2 Lock washer
3 Front sprocket, Z=15
4 Chain
5 Bolt
6 Front sprocket cover
7 Rear sprocket, Z=38
8 Nut
9 Washer
10 Nut
11 Rear sprocket flange
12 Cush drive bush
13 Inner ring
14 Spacer
15 Spacer
16 O-ring
17 Shim

Final drive
1098 GEAR-BOX
1098 REAR WHEEL PIN
1098s GEAR-BOX
Important
Inspecting the final drive

To check wear of the final drive, carry out a visual inspection of the front sprocket (3) and the rear sprocket (7). If
the teeth are found to worn as shown in the figure (dotted line), the sprocket must be renewed.
To check the amount of wear on the chain (4), keep the chain taut and measure 16 links.
If the length (L) is greater than 256.5 mm, the chain should be renewed.
Important
The rear sprocket (7), front sprocket (3) and chain (4) must all be renewed together.

Final drive
Removal of the front sprocket

Undo the bolts (5) and remove the sprocket cover (6).
Slacken the chain (Sect. D 4, Adjusting the chain tension).
Remove the chain with the service tool no 88713.1344.

The tool is composed of a holder (A), punch (B), body (C) and two wrenches (D) and (E).
Fit the link to be opened into the holder (A).
Fit a punch (B) into the body (C) and manually unscrew the bolt until the punch no longer protrudes.
Fit the holder (A) and link into the body (C).
Manually turn the bolt (F) on body (C) so that the punch (B) locates against the pin, taking care that they are aligned
with each other.
Fit hex wrench (D) into the hexagonal part of the body (C) and wrench (E) onto the bolt.
Turn the bolt (F) clockwise to push out the pin.

Final drive
Remove the chain.

Engage a low gear and unscrew the nut (1).
Remove the nut (1) and the safety washer (2).
Remove the front sprocket (3) with the chain (4) from the gearbox output shaft.
Remove the spacer (15) with the O-ring (16) from the gearbox output shaft.
Important
The O-ring (15) must be renewed on reassembly.
Refitting the front sprocket

Refit the ring (17) (Sect. N 9.2, Reassembly of the crankcase halves).
Grease the O-ring (16) and install it on the front sprocket spacer (15).
Fit the spacer, from the gasket side, on the output shaft and drive it fully home against the bearing's inner ring.
Before fitting the front sprocket, check that the spacer (15) is installed on the gearbox output shaft.

Final drive
Check that the splines of the gearbox output shaft and the sprocket are in perfect condition.
Fit the front sprocket (3) and install the safety washer (2).
Fit the chain and join the links using the same service tool part no. 88713.1344 that was used to split the chain.
The tool is composed of a holder (A), punch (B), body (C) and two wrenches (D) and (E) and link plate holder (F).
Connect the two halves of the chain with the external link and manually fit the plate onto the pins.
Warning
Lubricate the pins abundantly; try to avoid touching them with your hands.
Fit the holder (A) onto the external link.

Fit the punch (B) into the body (C) and the plate holder (F).
Fit the body (C) onto the holder (A) which holds the chain in position.
Manually turn the bolt (G) until the plate holder (F) is seated against the plate itself.
Use wrenches (D) and (E) to turn the bolt (G) clockwise until the chain pin is in contact with the holder (F).
Remove the holder (A) from the tool.
Manually turn the bolt (G) until the punch (B) locates against the pin, taking care that they are aligned with each
other.
Use wrenches (D) and (E) to turn the bolt clockwise until the punch (B) is seated against the chain plate.
To complete reassembly, repeat the entire procedure with the second pin.
Warning
Carefully check the two pins: the figure shows the correct result of the procedure.

Final drive
Adjust the chain tension (Sect. D 4, Adjusting the chain tension).

Fit the sprocket cover (6) and tighten the bolts (5) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Renewal of the rear sprocket

Slacken the chain D 4, Adjusting the chain tension
Hold the stub axle against rotation and, using a socket wrench, loosen the nut (8).
Fully unscrew the nut (8) and remove the washer (9) and the flange (11) complete with the rear sprocket (7).
Recover the spacer (14).
Using a mallet, tap the sprocket flange (11) with the cush drive bushes (12) off the sprocket (7).

Final drive
Refitting the rear sprocket

Check the cush drive bushes (12) for signs of wear and, if necessary, remove from the sprocket flange and renew
them.
Refitting is the reverse of removal.
If it was necessary to remove the cush drive bushes (12), grease all the mating surfaces and the undersides of the
retaining nuts (10) of the cush drive bushes (12) with the recommended grease.

Final drive
Check for wear following the instructions given at the beginning of this section.
To refit the nut (8), follow the instructions given for the axle nut in Sect. G 4, Refitting the rear wheel.

Adjust the chain tension D 4, Adjusting the chain tension
Washing the chain

Chains with O-rings must be washed in oil, diesel fuel or paraffin (kerosene).
Do not use petrol, trichloroethylene or other solvents, which could damage the rubber O-rings. For the same reason
use only sprays specifically formulated for use with O-ring chains.
Lubricating the chain

Final drive
Chains with O-rings are lubricated and sealed to protect the O-rings themselves against wear in the pin/bushing area.
However, these chains need lubricating at regular intervals to protect metal parts of the chain and the O rings.
Lubrication also serves to keep the O-rings soft and pliable to ensure the maximum sealing efficiency.
Using a brush, apply a thin protective film of high-density gearbox oil along the entire length of the chain both inside
and outside (Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids).
1

Frame
0Frame
1 - Handlebars 3
Removal of the handlebars 4
Refitting the handlebars 5
2 - Steering 6
Steering angle adjustment 8
Removal of the steering head components 9
Refitting the steering head components 11
3 - Steering damper (1098) 14

3 - Steering damper (1098S) 17

4 - Footrest brackets 20
Removal of the front footrests 21
Refitting the front footrests 22
Removal of the rear footrests 23
Refitting the rear footrests 24
5 - Sidestands 26
Removal of the sidestand. 27
Refitting the sidestand 29
6 - Frame inspection 30
Disassembly of structural components and the frame 31
Checking the frame 35
Reassembly of structural components and the frame 37
7 - Number plate holder 39

Removal of the number plate holder 40
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Frame
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Handlebars
1 - Handlebars
1 Left handlebar
2 Right handlebar
3 Bolt
4 Plug
5 Bolt
6 Bolt
7 Spring pin
8 Grip

Important
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Handlebars
Removal of the handlebars

To remove the right handlebar, the following parts must be removed first:

Remove the throttle twistgrip F 1, Removal of the throttle cable
Remove the right-hand handlebar P 5, Checking the right-hand
switch handlebar switch
Remove the front brake lever F 3, Removal of the front brake
master cylinder
Remove the top yoke H 2, Removal of the steering head
components
To remove left handlebar, the following parts must be removed first:

Remove left-hand handlebar switch P 5, Checking the left-hand
handlebar switch
Remove the clutch lever F 2, Removal of the clutch master
cylinder assembly
Remove the top yoke H 2, Removal of the steering head
components
Loosen the bolts (5) securing the handlebar to the fork leg.
Open up the two parts of the mounting clamp and remove the handlebar from the fork tube.
Refitting the handlebars

Fit the handlebar onto the fork leg and install the top yoke.
Important
When refitting the handlebars to the fork legs, position them relative to the top yoke by inserting the end of the

Handlebars
handlebar pin (7) into the slot (A) in the top yoke.
If the bolts (5) securing the handlebar to the fork leg were removed when removing the handlebars, apply the
recommended grease to their threads.
To complete the RH handlebar refitting procedure, install the following parts:

Refit the throttle twistgrip F 1, Reassembling the throttle control
Refit the right-hand handlebar switch P 5, Checking the right-hand
handlebar switch
Refit the front brake lever F 3, Refitting the front brake master
cylinder
Refit the top yoke H 2, Refitting the steering head
components
To complete the LH handlebar refitting procedure, install the following parts:

Refit the left-hand handlebar switch P 5, Checking the left-hand
handlebar switch

Handlebars
Refit the clutch lever F 2, Refitting the clutch master

cylinder assembly
Refit the top yoke H 2, Refitting the steering head
components

Steering
2 - Steering
1 Bottom yoke
2 Oil seal
3 Bearing
4 Nut
5 Bolt
6 Bolt
7 Top yoke
8 Adjuster screw
9 Nut

Important

Steering
Adjusting the steering head bearings
Notes
For adjustment of the steering head bearings, see Sect. D 4, Adjusting the steering head bearings.
If this does not solve the problem, check the bearings (3) for wear and, if necessary, renew them as described in
“Removal of the steering head components” in this chapter.
Steering angle adjustment

Loosen the nuts (9).
Loosen the adjuster screws (8) on both sides of the bottom yoke.

Steering
Use a 6 to 6.5 mm spacer (A) fitted to the fork outer tube, or use a gauge.
Turn the front forks to the right until the spacer (A) is seated against the frame top tube.
Turn the adjuster screw (8) on the opposite side to bring it into contact with the stop on the steering head.
Apply threadlocker to the thread of nut (9).
Hold the adjuster screw (8) firm and tighten the nut (9).
Turn the forks to the opposite side, and repeat the process to adjust the other screw and tighten the relative lock nut.
Removal of the steering head components

Remove the fork legs G 2, Removal of the front forks 1098
Remove the steering damper H 3, Removal of the steering damper
Notes
All parts fitted to the top and bottom yokes, wires and control cables included, can remain on motorcycle provided
they do not hinder the following operations.
Loosen the bolt (6) securing the top yoke (7) to the steering stem nut (4).
Remove the top yoke (7).

Steering
With the service tool part no. 88713.1058 loosen the ring nut (4) and unscrew it from the steering stem.
Slide the oil seal (2), the inner race (A) and the ball race (B) of the upper bearing (3) off the steering stem.
Remove the bottom yoke (1) complete with the steering stem from the frame tube.
Remove the ball race (B) of the lower bearing (3).
The inner race (A) of the lower bearing (3) and the relative oil seal (2) will remain on the steering stem.

Steering
Using a universal puller (of the type shown in the figure) remove the ring (C) from the steering stem, taking care not
to damage the seat.
Important
Once removed, the seals (2) and the bearings (3) must not be refitted.
Using a suitable drift, remove the outer bearing races (C) from the steering head. Proceed with extreme care to avoid
damaging the seats.
Refitting the steering head components
Important
The steering tube bearings (3) are identical but in no case may their components be swapped around during
reassembly.

Steering
Clean all contact surfaces and lubricate with the recommended grease.
To fit the outer races (C) of the bearings (3) to the steering head, use the service tool no. 88713.1062 and proceed
as follows: heat the steering head to 150 °C;
fit the outer races (C) in their seats on the steering head;
fit the fixed bush (E, with threaded hole) of the tool into the lower race;
Fit the other movable bush (F) into the upper end of the tool and drive it fully home against the upper bearing race.
Tighten the nut (G) and use a wrench to seat the outer rings (E) fully in the steering head;
leave the tool assembled until the steering head has cooled down to ensure that bearings are properly seated.
Fit the oil seal (2) (with the rim facing upwards) and inner race (A) of bottom bearing (3) onto the steering stem (D)
after heating it for about 10 minutes to 120 °C.
Fit drift part no. 88713.1072 into steering stem. Keep the inner race (A) pressed against the oil seal (2) manually
for at least 10-15 seconds.
Lubricate the inner bearing race (A) with the recommended grease.
Fit the ball race (B) to the steering stem (D) with the smaller diameter of the cage facing upwards and grease the ball
race.
Insert the steering stem in steering head and push it until it becomes axially seated.

Steering
Fit the bottom yoke assembly to frame.

Grease the ball race (B) and fit it to outer race (C) of the upper bearing.
Fit the inner race (A) of the upper bearing (3) to the steering head, with the larger diameter side of the race facing
upwards.
Install the oil seal (2) with the flat side facing upwards.
Tighten the steering stem nut (4) by hand until it seats against the oil seal (2).
Fit service bush part no. 88713.1058 to the steering stem nut (4) and fit the torque wrench to the bush.
Tighten the steering stem nut (4) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Fit the top yoke (7) onto the steering stem nut (4), aligning the fork leg bores with the corresponding bores on the
bottom yoke. Relocate the fork legs as described in Sect. G 2, Refitting the front forks 1098.
Grease the bolt (6).
Tighten the bolt (6) on the top yoke to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Steering

Refit the fork legs G 2, Refitting the front forks 1098
Refit the steering damper H 3, Refitting the steering damper

Steering damper (1098)
3 - Steering damper (1098)
1 Steering damper
2 Bolt
3 Bolt
4 Support
5 Bolt
6 Ball joint
7 Spacer
8 O-ring
9 Spacer
Important
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Removal of the steering damper

Unscrew and remove the bolt (2) securing the steering damper rod (1) to the frame.
Loosen the bolt (5) securing the steering damper to the mounting clamp (4) on the top yoke.
Remove the steering damper (1) from the mounting clamp (4).
Recover the spacer (7).
Loosen the bolt (3) securing the mounting clamp (4) to the top yoke and remove the clamp, the O-ring (8) and the
spacer (9).
Refitting the steering damper

Lubricate the spacer (9) with the O-ring (8) and fit to the seat on the top yoke.
Apply threadlocker to the thread of bolt (3) and insert it in the hole of the mounting clamp (4).

Insert the steering damper (1) in the mounting clamp (4) so that the part with the largest diameter (A) is located in
correspondence with the clamp (4).
Apply threadlocker to the thread and fit the bolt (5) in the mounting clamp.
Tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Insert the screw (2) into the damper's ball joint and fit spacer (7) under the head.
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the thread of the bolt (2) and tighten it to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,
Frame torque settings) in the threaded hole on the frame.

Steering damper (1098S)
3 - Steering damper (1098S)
1 Steering damper
2 Bolt
3 Bolt
4 Bolt
5 Spacer
6 O-ring
7 Spacer
Important
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Removal of the steering damper

Unscrew and remove the bolt (2) securing the steering damper rod (1) to the frame.
Loosen the bolt (4) securing the steering damper to the mounting clamp on the top yoke.
Remove the steering damper (1) from the mounting clamp (A).
Loosen the bolt (3) securing the mounting clamp (A) to the top yoke and remove the clamp, the O-ring (6) and the
spacer (7).
Refitting the steering damper

Lubricate the spacer (7) with the O-ring (6) and fit to the seat on the top yoke.
Apply threadlocker to the thread of bolt (3) and insert it in the hole of the mounting clamp (A).
Insert the steering damper (1) in the mounting clamp (A), checking that the damper protrudes beyond the end of the
clamp by 73 mm.

Apply threadlocker to the thread and fit the bolt (4) in the mounting clamp.
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the thread of the bolt (2) and tighten it to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,
Frame torque settings) in the threaded hole on the frame.

Footrest brackets
4 - Footrest brackets
1 Front right footrest bracket

2 Front left footrest bracket
3 Spring
4 Pivot bolt
5 Right front footrest
6 Left front footrest
7 Bolt
8 Right heel plate
9 Left heel plate
10 Circlip
11 Bolt
12 Bolt
13 Right rear footrest
14 Ring
15 Left rear footrest
16 Pivot bolt
17 Rear left footrest bracket

Footrest brackets
18 Rear right footrest bracket

19 Spring
20 Ball
1098 FRAME
1098 REAR FRAME
1098s FRAME
1098s REAR FRAME
Important
Removal of the front footrests

The left footrest assembly can be removed after removing gearchange pedal (A) from the bracket (2) (Sect. F 5,
Refitting the gearchange control).
Undo the two bolts (7) securing the bracket to the frame and remove the complete footrest and bracket assembly.
To separate the footrest from the bracket, remove the lock ring (10) and slide out the pivot bolt (4), thus freeing the
footrest and the spring (3).

Footrest brackets
Refitting the front footrests

Position the spring (3) between the lugs of the footrest (5) or (6) and fit it to the bracket, inserting the straight end
(B) of the spring in the hole in the bracket.
Grease the pivot bolt (4) and insert it from the front, securing it on the other side with the circlip (10).

Footrest brackets
Fit the entire assembly to the frame, securing it with the bolts (7) coated with the recommended threadlocker.
Tighten the bolts (7) to the prescribed torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Refit the gearchange pedal (Sect. F 5, Refitting the gearchange control) to the left footrest bracket.
Removal of the rear footrests

Remove the rider seat (Sect. E 3, Removal of the seats).
Unscrew the bolts (12), remove the brackets (17) and (18) from the seat cowling.
To separate the footrest (13) from the bracket (18), remove the retainer ring (14) and slide out the pin (16), thus
freeing the footrest, the spring (19) and the ball (20).
The procedure is the same for the rear left footrest (15).

Footrest brackets
Refitting the rear footrests

Footrest brackets
Position the spring (19) and the ball (20) on the rear right footrest bracket (18).
Position the footrest (13) on the bracket (18) and insert the pivot bolt (16), while pressing the footrest (13).
Fasten the pivot bolt on the opposite side with the ring (14).
The procedure is the same for the rear left footrest (17).

Footrest brackets
Locate the footrest brackets (17) and (18) and tighten the bolts (12) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).
Refit the rider seat (Sect. E 3, Refitting the seats).

Sidestands
5 - Sidestands
1 Sidestand
2 Bolt
3 Bracket
4 Bolt
5 Switch
6 Inner spring
7 Spring assembly
8 Plate
9 Pivot bolt
10 Nut
1098 STAND
1098S STAND

Sidestands
Important
Removal of the sidestand.

Remove the left-hand side fairing E 2, Removal of the side fairings
Disconnect the wiring connector of the sidestand switch (1) from the main wiring harness.
Unscrew the two bolts (2) securing the sidestand bracket (3) to the engine and remove the complete sidestand
assembly.
Disassembly of the sidestand.

Unscrew the retaining bolt (4) and remove the sidestand switch (5).
Release the sidestand springs (6) and (7) from the connecting plate (8) located on the sidestand bracket (3), and
remove them.
Unscrew the pivot bolt (9) securing the sidestand to the bracket and remove the sidestand (1) and the nut (10).

Sidestands
Inspecting the sidestand

Fit the sidestand leg to the bracket and check that there is no excessive play. Ensure that the ends of the sidestand
are not bent with respect to the shank.
A stand which shows signs of cracking must be renewed immediately.
For details of how to test the switch (5), see Sect. P 6, Checking the sidestand switch.
Reassembly of the sidestand

Grease the sidestand leg (1) and fit it to the bracket (3). Secure it with the pivot bolt (9) and the nut (10).
Tighten the pivot bolt (9) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Locate the sidestand return springs (6) and (7) and attach them to the connection plate (8) and to the sidestand leg
(1).
Locate the switch (5) on the bracket against the pivot bolt (9).
Fit the retaining bolt (4) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Sidestands
Refitting the sidestand

Position the plate (3) on the frame, apply recommended threadlocker to the two bolts (2).
Connect the sidestand switch connector to the main wiring harness.

For correct positioning of the sidestand switch wiring, refer to the plate in Sect. P 1, Plate 40.

Refit the left-hand side fairing E 2, Refitting the side fairings

Frame inspection
6 - Frame inspection
1 Headlight assembly
2 Frame
3 Rear subframe
4 Bolt
5 Bolt
6 Nut
7 Headlight
8 Instrument panel
9 Spacer
10 Nut
11 Rubber mounting
12 Bolt
13 Spacer
14 Rubber mounting
15 Air temperature sensor

Frame inspection
1098 FRONT HEAD-LIGHT AND INSTRUMENT PANEL

1098 FRAME
1098 REAR FRAME
1098S FRONT HEAD-LIGHT AND INSTRUMENT PANEL
1098S FRAME
1098S REAR FRAME
Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text. Refer to the exploded
view diagram.
Disassembly of structural components and the frame

Before carrying out dimensional checks on the frame, you must remove all the superstructures fitted, referring to the
removal procedures outlined in the sections of this manual.
The structural components of the frame (2) are the headlight assembly (1) and the rear subframe (3).
Both serve to support motorcycle superstructures and must therefore be in perfect condition.
The flow chart below illustrates the logical sequence in which the parts are to be removed from the motorcycle and
gives a reference to the section of the manual in which the removal procedure is described.

Frame inspection
Removal of the headlight assembly

Unscrew the bolts (12) to disconnect the headlight (7).

Frame inspection
Disconnect the various wiring connectors, remove all cable ties from the headlight support (Sect. P 1, Plate 10) and
unscrew the bolts (4).
Remove the headlight assembly (1).
Removal of the rear subframe

Disconnect all the wiring connections of the electrical components mounted on the subframe (Sect. P 1, Plate 34,
Plate 35) and remove the silencer (Sect. L 8, Removal of the exhaust system).
Unscrew the bolts (5) securing the rear subframe (3) to the frame (2).
Separate the rear subframe (3) from the main frame (4).
Recover the nuts (6).
Checking the frame

Check the dimensions of the frame against the dimensions shown here to determine whether it needs to be realigned
or renewed.

Frame inspection
Important
Badly damaged frames must be renewed and not repaired. Any work carried out on the frame can give rise to
potential danger, infringing the requirements of EC directives concerning manufacturers' liability and general product
safety.
Frame general dimensions (mm)
Rear subframe general dimensions (mm)

Frame inspection
Reassembly of structural components and the frame
Refitting the rear subframe

Locate the rear subframe (3) on the mountings on the frame (2).
Insert the bolts (5) from the outside and secure on inside with the nuts (6), applying the specified threadlocker.

Frame inspection
Reconnect the wiring connections (Sect. P 1, Plate 34, Plate 35) and refit the silencer (Sect. L 8, Refitting the exhaust
system).
Refitting the headlight assembly

Fit the headlight (7), fit the retaining bolts (12) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Install the lamp assembly (1) complete with accessories to the mounting on the front of the steering head, making
sure the holes are aligned.
Insert the bolts (4) in the front mounting.
Apply the prescribed threadlocker and tighten the bolts (4) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Reconnect and refit the wiring connectors (Sect. P 1, Plate 10).

1

Number plate holder
7 - Number plate holder
1 Number plate holder

2 Cover
3 Rubber mounting
4 Support
5 Bolt
6 Nut
7 Support
8 Reflector
9 Bracket
10 Washer
11 Bolt
12 Bolt
13 Nut
14 Bolt
15 Nut

Number plate holder
1098 NUMBER PLATE HOLDER

1098S NUMBER PLATE HOLDER
Important
Removal of the number plate holder

Undo the bolts (12) and remove the number plate holder cover (2).
Undo the bolts (5) securing the number plate holder (1) to the support (4).
Disconnect the rear turn signal connectors from the main wiring loom (Sect. P 1, Plate 34, Plate 35) and remove the
number plate holder assembly.
Unscrew the bolts (11) and (14) to remove the number plate support (7) from the number plate (1) and from the

Number plate holder
bracket (9).
Refitting the number plate holder
Refit the number plate support (7) to the bracket (9) and to the number plate holder by fitting the bolts (14) and (11).

Number plate holder
Reconnect the turn signal wiring connectors to the main wiring loom (Sect. P 1, Plate 34, Plate 35).
Refit the number plate holder (1) to the support (4) with the bolts (5).

Number plate holder
Refit the number plate holder cover (2) with the bolts (12).

Fuel / Exhaust System

2 - Fuel tank 3
Removal of the fuel tank 4
Removal of the fuel filler cap assembly 6
Refitting the fuel filler cap assembly 7
Renewal of the fuel tank flange 8
Refitting the fuel tank flange 9
Refitting the fuel tank 10
6 - Airbox – Throttle Body 14

Removal of the airbox and throttle body 15
Refitting the airbox and throttle body 24
7 - Air intake 30
Removal of the air filters 31
Refitting the air filters 32
8 - Exhaust system 33
Removal of the exhaust system 34
Refitting the exhaust system 38
10 - Evaporative emissions canister 44

Evaporative emissions canister system (US versions only) 45
Removal of the evaporative emissions canister 46
Refitting the evaporative emissions canister 46
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Evaporative emissions canister
10 -Evaporative emissions canister
1 Evaporative emissions canister

2 Hose
3 Hose clip
4 Filter/oil reservoir hose
5 Hose clip
6 Hose
7 Hose clip
8 Tee fitting
9 Hose
10 Hose
11 Hose clip
12 Union
13 Seal
14 Union
15 Breather pipe
16 Bracket
17 Plate
18 Rubber
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19 Spacer
20 Bolt
21 Bolt
1098 EXHAUST SYSTEM

1098S EXHAUST SYSTEM
Important
Evaporative emissions canister system (US versions only)

US models are equipped with an additional system with an evaporative emissions canister that prevents fuel fumes
from being discharged into the atmosphere.
Hose (4) is connected to the evaporative emissions canister (1); when the fuel has been filtered, it is returned to the
intake manifolds via the hoses (6), (9) and (10). Hoses (15) and (2) vent to the ground.

Removal of the evaporative emissions canister

Remove the fuel tank L 2, Removal of the fuel tank
Loosen the clamps securing the hoses connecting the evaporative emissions canister (1) to the intake manifolds of
the horizontal and vertical cylinders.
Disconnect the hose (10) connecting the evaporative emissions canister (1) to the vertical cylinder.
Disconnect the hose (9) connecting the evaporative emissions canister (1) to the horizontal cylinder.
Withdraw the evaporative emissions canister (1) downwards to detach it from the plate.
Refitting the evaporative emissions canister

To refit the evaporative emissions canister, execute the removal sequence in reverse order.

Refit the fuel tank L 2, Refitting the fuel tank
Refit the fairings E 2, Refitting the side fairings

Fuel tank
2 - Fuel tank
1 Fuel tank
2 Front fuel tank mounting (right)
3 Front fuel tank mounting (left)
4 Bolt
5 Bolt
6 Support
7 Quick-release fastener
8 Bolt
9 Bolt
10 Rubber mounting
11 Spacer
12 Washer
13 Bolt
14 Panel
15 Seal
16 Union
17 Hose
18 Hose

Fuel tank
19 Union
20 Hose
21 Bolt
22 O-ring
23 O-ring
24 Quick-release fitting
25 Flange
26 O-ring
27 Collar
28 Filter
29 Thermistor
30 Collar
31 Bracket
32 Bracket
33 Bolt
34 Hose
35 Hose
36 Clamp
37 T-fitting
1098 FUEL TANK

1098 FUEL SYSTEM
1098S FUEL TANK
1098S FUEL SYSTEM
Important
Removal of the fuel tank

Remove the seat and side panels (Sect. E 3, Removal of the seats - Removal of the side panels and seat cowling).
Remove the bolt (13) and recover the washer (12).
Detach the hoses (34) and (35) from respectively plates (32) and (31).

Fuel tank
Raise the fuel tank and disconnect the fuel level sensor (A) from the main wiring loom.
Disconnect the quick-release fittings (24) from the flange.
Withdraw the fuel tank (1) towards the rear of the motorcycle to disengage the front catches from the frame.

Fuel tank
Removal of the fuel filler cap assembly

Open the filler cap.
Unscrew the outer bolts (9) securing the ring nut to the filler cap recess.
Unscrew the anti-theft screw (8) on the inside.
Remove the complete filler cap assembly.
The rubber breather nozzle (B) is located inside the filler cap. If the nozzle (B) is to be renewed, apply a uniform film
of speed bonder around the groove.
Fit the nozzle making sure that it is properly seated in the recess groove.
Refitting the fuel filler cap assembly

Grease the new O-ring and its groove in the fuel tank.
Refit the filler cap assembly in its seat in the tank and tighten the bolts (8) and (9) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,

Fuel tank
Renewal of the fuel tank flange

Unscrew the six bolts (21) securing the fuel tank flange. Remove three of the bolts, leaving three in position in order
to help lift the flange.
Remove the flange (25) from the fuel tank.
Recover the O-ring (A).

Using the appropriate tool, undo the clips (B) next to the fuel filter (C).
Remove the old filter from the connecting hoses and fit a new filter.
Before reassembly, carefully remove any deposits or scale from all parts.
Important
When installing the new filter, position it with the arrow punched on the external housing pointing towards the flange.
Notes
The flange is supplied as a spare part complete with the fuel pump and pressure regulator: The entire flange
assembly must be replaced in case of malfunction.

Fuel tank
Refitting the fuel tank flange

Grease the O-ring and locate the flange and refit by reversing the steps of the removal procedure. Tighten the bolts
(21) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Refitting the fuel tank

If the fuel tank has been disassembled into its component parts, reposition all the parts as shown in the exploded
view. In particular:
apply the recommended threadlocker to the bolts (4),
and tighten the bolts (4), (5) and (33) and unions (16) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Fuel tank
Reposition the fuel tank (1), inserting the front catches in the corresponding locations on the frame.
Connect the quick-release fittings (24) to the flange.

Fuel tank
Connect the wiring connector (A) to the main wiring loom.
Insert the hoses (34) and (35) in respectively plates (32) and (31).
Secure the tank to the frame with the bolt (13) and the washer (12).
Tighten the bolt (13) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Fuel tank
Refit the seat and side panels (Sect. E 3, Refitting the seats).
Positioning of the fuel tank breather and drain hoses and the water overflow hose and expansion tank.

Fuel tank
Positioning of the fuel pipes

Fuel tank

Airbox – Throttle Body
6 - Airbox – Throttle Body
1 Stepper motor
2 O-ring
3 Screw
4 Fuel injector support
5 Union
6 Hose
7 Air intake funnel
8 Special screw
9 Seal
10 Seal
11 Throttle body assembly
12 Bolt
13 Injector
14 Hose (vertical)
15 Union
16 Hose (horizontal)
17 Fuel injector cap

18 Drain hose
19 Hose
20 Airbox
1098 THROTTLE BODY

1098 AIR INDUCTION - OIL VENT
1098S THROTTLE BODY
1098S AIR INDUCTION - OIL VENT
Important
Removal of the airbox and throttle body

Remove the fuel tank L 2, Removal of the fuel tank
Remove the air scoops L 7, Removal of the air filters
Disconnect the throttle cable F 1, Removal of the throttle cable
Disconnect the fuel injectors (13) from the main wiring harness.
Remove the retaining clips (A).

Loosen the clamps (B) securing the throttle body to the intake manifolds (C).
Disconnect the connector (D) connecting the main wiring loom to the stepper motor (1).
Disconnect the wiring connector (E) connecting the main wiring loom to the throttle position sensor (F).

Slacken off the clamp (G) securing the hose (18) to the blow-by valve.
Withdraw the airbox (20) complete with the throttle body (11) and the fuel injectors (13).

Removal of the fuel injectors

Undo the screws (3) to remove the fuel injectors (13) complete with hoses (14) and (16) from the airbox.
Refitting the injectors

Check that the injector O-ring seals (2) are present.
Position the hoses and unions (5), (6), (14), (15) and (16) with the fuel injectors (13) on the airbox (20) in the
corresponding yellow clips.
Tighten the screws (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Removal of the stepper motor

The stepper motor is installed in the central part of the throttle body:
to remove it, unscrew the two bolts (H) and disconnect the hoses (L) and (M) from the airbox. Refer to Sect. M 3,
Stepper motor for details of stepper motor operation.

Refitting the stepper motor

Reconnect the hoses (L) on the throttle body and the hose (M) to the airbox.
Locate the stepper motor with its support on the throttle body, inserting the bolts (H).
Tighten the bolts (H).
Disassembly of the airbox – throttle body

Unscrew the six bolts (8) and remove the throttle body (11) from the airbox (20).

Reassembly of the airbox – throttle body

If removed, refit the fuel hoses (N) with relative quick-release fittings, the hose clamps to the airbox and the cable
grommet (P) as shown.
Fit the cable grommet with two bolts and four washers as shown.

If removed, refit the air intake funnels (7) to the throttle body (11) and tighten the bolts (12) to the specified torque
If removed, refit the throttle cables to the throttle body as indicated: insert the throttle opening cable (P) and the
throttle closing cable (Q) in the throttle body plate, as shown in the figure. Secure the throttle cables with two circlips
(R).

If removed, refit the throttle cable stop (S) tightening the screw (T).
Refit the throttle body (11) to the airbox (20).

Tighten the six bolts (8) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Refitting the airbox and throttle body

Locate the hose clamps (B) in their seats on the air intakes (C).
Position the airbox (20) and the throttle body (11) on the motorcycle.

Tighten the hose clamps (B) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Reconnect the wiring connectors connecting the injectors (13) to the main wiring loom.

Connect the wiring connector (D) to connect the main wiring harness to the stepper motor (1).
Connect the wiring connector (E) of the main wiring harness to the throttle position sensor (F).
Reconnect the hose (18) to the blow-by valve and tighten the clamp (G).
Important
If the throttle body is renewed, carry out the procedure to reset the TPS (Sect. D 5, Resetting the throttle position
sensor (TPS)).

Connect the throttle cable F 1, Reassembling the throttle control
Refit the air intake scoops L 7, Refitting the air filters
Refit the fuel tank L 2, Refitting the fuel tank


Positioning of the airbox drain hose

Positioning of the blow-by hose


Positioning throttle cables


Air intake
7 - Air intake
1 Bolt
2 Rubber
4 Spacer
5 Air filter
6 Left air scoop
7 Bolt
8 Seal
9 Left intake hose
10 Right air scoop
11 Right intake hose
1098 AIR INDUCTION - OIL VENT

1098S AIR INDUCTION - OIL VENT

Air intake
Important
Removal of the air filters

Undo the bolts (7) securing the air scoops to the airbox.
Unscrew the bolts (1) securing the air scoops to the headlight assembly and withdraw the intake hoses (9) and (11)
with the air scoops (6) and (10) from the headlight assembly.
Refitting the air filters

If removed, refit the seals (8) to the air scoops (6) and (10), positioning the locating nib in the relative notch on the
air scoop.

Air intake
Reposition the hoses (9) and (11) with the air scoops (6) and (10) on the headlight assembly.
Insert the bolts (1) securing the air scoops to the headlight assembly and the bolts (7) securing the air scoops to the
airbox.
Tighten the bolts (1) and (7) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).


Exhaust system
8 - Exhaust system
1 Nut
2 Exhaust gasket
3 Spring
4 Horizontal cylinder head exhaust pipe
5 Rubber mounting
6 Spacer
7 Bolt
8 Nut
9 Exhaust manifold
10 Bolt
11 Lambda sensor
12 Seal
14 Right-hand clamp
15 Left-hand clamp
16 Clamp rubber
17 Bolt
18 Nut

Exhaust system
19 Washer
20 Cables assembly
21 Vertical cylinder head exhaust pipe
22 Heat shield
23 Washer
24 Bolt
25 Plug
26 Bolt
27 Washer
28 Rubber
29 Left-hand silencer
30 Right-hand silencer
31 Exhaust valve motor
32 Washer
1098 EXHAUST SYSTEM

1098S EXHAUST SYSTEM
Important
Removal of the exhaust system

Unscrew the bolts (10) and recover the seals (19).
Unscrew the bolt (17) and the nut (8).

Exhaust system
Remove the springs (3) and slide the silencers (29) and (30) from the vertical cylinder head exhaust pipe (21).
Remove the heat shield (22), unscrew the bolts (24) and recover the washers (23) and (27).
Remove the circlips (A) from the cables assembly (20) for the exhaust valve motor (B).
Remove the cables (20) from the exhaust valve (B).

Exhaust system
Unscrew the bolts (26) to remove the exhaust valve motor (31) from the frame and disconnect the wiring (C) from
the motor (31).
Disconnect the lambda sensor (11) from the wiring (D).

Exhaust system
Unscrew the bolt (7) and the nut (18) securing the pipe (21) to the frame.
Remove the springs (3) and withdraw the vertical cylinder head exhaust pipe (21) from the horizontal cylinder head
exhaust pipe (4) and the exhaust manifold (9).

Exhaust system
Unscrew the bolts (1) and remove the exhaust manifold (9) from the vertical cylinder head exhaust pipe and the
horizontal cylinder head exhaust pipe (4) from the horizontal cylinder head.

Exhaust system
Refitting the exhaust system

Position the exhaust manifold (9) on the vertical cylinder head and the horizontal head exhaust pipe (4) on the
horizontal cylinder head along with the gaskets (2).
Tighten the nuts (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Connect the vertical cylinder head exhaust pipe (21) to the horizontal cylinder head exhaust pipe (4) and to the
exhaust manifold (9) with the springs (3).

Exhaust system
Secure the vertical head exhaust pipe (21) to the frame with the bolt (7) and nut (18) and tighten the bolt (7) to the
specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Connect the lambda sensor (11) to the wiring (D).

Exhaust system
Locate the engine (31) on the frame and tighten the bolts (26) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).
Connect the motor to the wiring (C).
If the cables (20) have been removed from the motor, position them so that the top corner of the pulley race (located
between the two cable end fittings) is aligned with the notch. To facilitate cable fitting, use the respective instrument
panel function to move the motor (Sect. P 7, Moving the valve motor to facilitate cable fitting).

Exhaust system
Position the cables (20) on the exhaust valve (B).

The travel stop (E) of the exhaust valve pulley must be seated against the blade of the exhaust valve (B).
Secure the cables with two circlips (A).
Refer to the figures at the end of the chapter for correct routing of the cables (20).
The cables must have no free play.
To adjust the cables, turn the adjusters (F).

Exhaust system
Refit the heat shield (22).

Connect the silencers (29) and (30) to the pipe (21) and locate the springs (3).
Insert the bolt (17) with the nut (8) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Exhaust system
Insert the bolts (10) with the washers (19) and tighten the bolts (10) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame
torque settings).

Positioning the control cables of the exhaust valve motor

Exhaust system

Injection - ignition system

2 - Fuel injection-ignition system 3
3 - System components 4
Electronic Control Unit (ECU) 4
Removal of the battery support 6
Refitting the battery support 9
Fuel injectors 13
Stepper motor 14
Air pressure sensor 15
Air temperature sensor 17
Ignition coils 18
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) 21
Rpm/timing sensor 22
Injection relay 23
CAN Line 24
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Fuel injection-ignition system
2 - Fuel injection-ignition system

The electrical components of the injection-ignition system electrical are listed below: the reference
next to each component is that shown in the diagram in Sect. P 1, Wiring diagram.
2 Ignition switch
3 Left cooling fan
4 Right cooling fan
5 Starter motor
6 Starter contactor
7 Battery
8 Regulator fuse
9 Regulator
15 Fuel tank
16 Stepper motor
17 Injection relay
18 Self-diagnosis
19 Horizontal cylinder coil
20 Vertical cylinder coil
21 Horizontal cylinder spark plug
22 Vertical cylinder spark plug
23 Horizontal cylinder injector
24 Vertical cylinder injector
25 Throttle position sensor
26 Rpm/timing sensor
27 Coolant temperature sensor
28 Speed sensor
29 Sidestand
31 Neutral switch
32 Oil pressure switch
34 ECU
35 Fuses
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System components
3 - System components
Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
The engine ECU (1) is an electronic digital microprocessor-based unit.
It controls both the injectors and the coils, thus controlling fuel injection and ignition in accordance
with the engine operating conditions detected by the following sensors:
- Absolute pressure sensor (measures atmospheric pressure)
- Air temperature sensor (measures intake air temperature)
- Engine temperature sensor (measures coolant temperature)
- Timing/rpm sensor (measures engine rotation speed and cylinder timing relative to TDC)
- Throttle position sensor (measures the throttle opening angle)
The ECU also monitors battery voltage so that it can adjust injector opening time and ignition coil
charging time accordingly.
The ECU determines the following values.
- Amount of fuel delivered to each cylinder with a sequential non-parallel control
Injector closing time and therefore injection timing relative to the end of the induction stroke for each
-
cylinder
- Ignition advance.
Important
The maps, which include ignition advance values, injection times, crankshaft angle for injector closing
and all correction curves as a function of temperature and atmospheric pressure values, are stored in
the Flash Eprom of the ECU. The above values are preset by the Manufacturer after testing the
motorcycle under different riding conditions. These settings cannot be changed.
CO content can be adjusted using software on the “DDS” tester, which should be connected to the ECU
diagnostic socket.
For this procedure, refer to Sect. D 5, Adjusting the idle speed.
There are two kinds of ECU connector, one has a grey terminal block (Telaio-Body), and one has a
black terminal block (Motore-Engine).
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System components
Warning
If the ECU is changed, it will be necessary to follow the procedure for “Resetting the throttle position
sensor (TPS)”, Sect. D 5.
For removal and refitting of the ECU, refer to the chapters “Removal of the battery support” and
“Refitting the battery support” in this section.
Removal of the battery support

To remove the battery support, you first need to remove the left-hand side fairing (Sect. E 2, Removal
of the side fairings) and disconnect the sidestand wiring connector (A) from the main wiring loom
(Sect. P 1, Plate 31).
Unscrew the bolt (2) and remove the battery retaining bracket (3).

System components
Disconnect the battery terminal clamps (5) and (4). Always disconnect the negative terminal clamp (5)
first.
Remove the battery (6).
Remove the clamp (B) and disconnect the regulator wiring connector (7) from the wiring loom.
Disconnect the two wiring connectors (8) and (9) from the ECU.
Undo the screws (10) and remove the ECU (1), freeing it from the ECU earth lead (C).
Detach the wiring connector of the contactor (13) with the fixing device from the battery support.
To remove the contactor, proceed as described in Sect. P 3, Starter contactor.

System components
Remove the regulator fuse (14) from the battery support, withdrawing it through the holes provided.
Undo the screw (11) and remove the injection and fans relay (12).

System components
Release the wiring from any cable ties (D).

To remove the regulator/rectifier (15), proceed as described in Sect. P 2, Regulator/rectifier.
Undo the bolts (16) securing the battery support (17) to the frame.
Recover the spacers (18) and the washer (19).

Remove the battery support from the motorcycle.

System components
Refitting the battery support

Check the condition of all rubber components and replace them if necessary.
Insert the small diameter side of the spacers (18) into their rubbers.

System components
For the positioning of the wiring on the battery support, refer to Sect. P 1, Plate 35.
Refit the regulator/rectifier (Sect. P 2, Regulator/rectifier) and the contactor (Sect. P 3, Starter
contactor).
Fit the regulator fuse (14) inserting it through the holes in the battery support.
Fit the injection and fans relay (12), tightening the screw (11) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,

System components
Position the ECU so that the threaded hole (E) is facing upwards; insert the retaining screws (10) with
the ECU earth connector (C) under the right-hand screw, and tighten to the specified torque
Make sure the clip (F) for the connector (8) is in its “open” position (as shown in the diagram).
Push the connector firmly into the ECU.
Rotate the clip (F) to secure the connector (clip in “locked” position).
Repeat the procedure for the other connector (9).
Make sure the connector clip is in the “open” position.
Push the connector firmly into the control unit.

System components
Rotate the clip to secure the connector (clip in “locked” position).

System components
Important
If the ECU is changed, use the DDS tester to set the TPS to zero (Sect. D 5, Resetting the throttle
position sensor (TPS)).
If it has been removed, refit the rubber mat (20) in its seat, locating the pins in the holes (C) on the
battery support.
Refit the battery in the support and refit the support to the motorcycle by reversing the removal
operations.

System components
Reconnect the battery support wiring to the main wiring loom (Sect. P 1, Plate 35) and refit the left-
hand side fairing (Sect. E 2, Refitting the side fairings).
Fuel injectors
The injectors (1) deliver the correct quantity of fuel required for optimal engine operation.
The ECU controls injector opening by feeding current to the coil of an electromagnet which creates a
magnetic field to attract the armature, thereby generating fuel spray. If we take the physical
characteristics of the fuel to be constant (viscosity, density), as well as the injector delivery and
pressure head (controlled by the fuel pressure regulator), the amount of fuel injected depends on the
duration for which the injector is open.
This time is determined by the ECU in accordance with the engine operating conditions.
In this way correct fuel delivery in ensured.
For removal or refitting of the injectors, refer to Sect. L 6, Removal of the fuel injectors.
Notes
To test the operation of the injector, use the DDS tester and follow the instructions given in the
paragraph “Guided diagnosis”, Sect. D 5.
The fuel output must be even and the jet should be fully atomised, without droplets.
Do not leave the engine stopped for a long time with the fuel circuit full.
The fuel could clog the injectors and render them inoperable.

System components
Periodically, after lengthy periods without running the engine, we recommend adding TUNAP 231 to
the fuel in the tank to help clean critical sections of the fuel circuit.
Notes
Electric injectors are only supplied as part of the “Injectors and pipes” kit, and must not be replaced
individually.
Stepper motor
The throttle body incorporates an automatic choke function performed by a stepper motor (1).
The stepper motor shaft is fitted with a valve which opens a communicating passage between two
ports; one of these ports (2) is connected to the intake manifold of the vertical cylinder while the other
(4) is connected to the intake manifold of the horizontal cylinder. A third port (3) is connected to the
airbox.
The stepper motor simultaneously controls two by-pass ports having an air flow capacity of around
6 kg/h.
The by-pass ports with adjuster screws are present because it is necessary to balance the air flow to
the two cylinders.
In order to compensate for the quantity of supplementary air supplied by the stepper motor and
consequently deliver the correct amount of fuel, the ECU converts the stepper motor steps into angular
degrees of the throttle: this system means that opening the stepper motor is equivalent to opening the
throttle.

System components
Notes
The influence of the stepper motor air flow is present to approximately 30° throttle angle; no
correction is required for greater angles.
The opening of the stepper motor opening is controlled by 2 strategies:

Strategy 1) controlled solely by engine temperature (stepper motor opening/closing is determined by
engine temperature alone).
Strategy 2) controlled by engine temperature and status. This strategy is applied only in the engine
starting phase; the system determines a quantity of steps, to be added to those of the previous
strategy, which are immediately decreased to zero, in accordance with the number of engine cycles,
once the system has detected that the engine has started.
Air pressure sensor

This sensor is integrated in the instrument panel and indicates the atmospheric air pressure. This
information is sent to the ECU by a serial line (CAN line), and is used to correct the calibrations stored
in the Flash Eprom.
Notes
To test the operation of the injector, use the DDS tester and follow the instructions given in the
paragraph “Guided diagnosis” (Sect. D 5).
Coolant temperature sensor

This sensor is mounted on the horizontal cylinder head coolant outlet union and measures the coolant
temperature. This information is sent to the ECU and used to correct the calibrations stored in the
Flash Eprom so as to ensure optimal ignition and fuel supply at all times. The same information is sent
to the instrument panel via the CAN line for the coolant temperature display. It is composed of a body
containing an NTC thermistor (the resistance of the thermistor decreases as the temperature
increases).
Notes
To test the operation of the coolant temperature sensor, use the DDS tester and follow the instructions
given in the paragraph “Guided diagnosis” (Sect. D 5).
Removal of the coolant temperature sensor

To remove the coolant temperature sensor, first remove the LH side fairing (Sect. E 2, Removal of the
side fairings) and the battery support (as explained in this section).
Disconnect the wiring connector.
Unscrew the sensor (1) from the coolant manifold (2) (Sect. P 1, Plate 12).

System components
Refitting the coolant temperature sensor

Refit by reversing the removal operations, securing the sensor to the union with the specified torque
(Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and applying the recommended threadlocker.
Refit the left-hand side fairing (Sect. E 2, Refitting the side fairings).
Air temperature sensor

The sensor (1) is located on the right-hand side of the instrument panel and measures the external air
temperature:
the temperature signal is sent to the ECU integrated in the instrument panel for display and sent over
the CAN line to the engine ECU which uses it to make mapping corrections.

System components
Ignition coils
Raise the fuel tank (Sect. L 2, Removal of the fuel tank).
Undo the nut (1) securing the coil to the cylinder head.
Remove the connector (2) and extract the coils (3) from the spark plugs on both cylinder heads.
Clean the area around the spark plug bores with a compressed air jet before removing the spark plugs
themselves.
Remove the spark plugs, making sure that dirt does not fall into the combustion chambers.
Spark plugs
Check the colour of the ceramic insulation around the central electrode:
an even, light brown colour indicates the engine is in good condition and running at the right
temperature.
Secondly, check the central electrode for wear and measure electrode gap, which should be: 0.6-
0.7 mm.

System components
Important
Check the gap between the central and side electrodes. If the gap is not as specified or if the spark
plug has heavy sooty deposits, renew it.
Refit the spark plug in the cylinder head, first tightening it fully by hand.
Refit the fuel tank (Sect. L 2, Refitting the fuel tank).
Important
Do not use spark plugs with inadequate thermal rating or incorrect thread length.
The spark plug must be securely installed.
If a spark plug is loose, it can overheat and damage the engine.
Spark plug type

Make: NGK
Type: MAR10A-J
Checking the coils

The coils used on this model are known as “cigar” coils.
They are similar in appearance to a spark plug cap. They transform the low voltage from the ECU into
high voltage for the spark plugs.
To test the coils, proceed as follows:
Measure the resistance between the two pins (1-15).
The resistance should be 650 mΩ±50; if not, replace the coil.
Notes
To check the coils for faults, use the DDS tester and follow the instructions given in the paragraph
“Guided diagnosis” (Sect. D 5).
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

The TPS is powered by the ECU to which it sends a signal indicating the throttle position. This
information is an indirect measure of the engine load and is used by the ECU as one of the main

System components
parameters for defining the fuel flow rate and spark advance.
Notes
To check this component, use the DDS tester following the instructions given in the paragraph “Guided
diagnosis” (Sect. D 5).
It is not possible to change the throttle position sensor as a single component. In the event of a fault
with this component, it will be necessary to replace the entire throttle body assembly (Sect. L 6,
Removal of the airbox and throttle body) and then reset the TPS (Sect. D 5, Resetting the throttle
position sensor (TPS)).
Rpm/timing sensor
This sensor (1) is of the inductive type: it faces the timing gear and is capable of reading the 46 teeth
and the 2 -tooth gap.
The signal coming from the pickup on the camshaft gear is used by the ECU to determine the engine
speed and as a timing reference point.
Notes
To check these components for faults, use the DDS tester and follow the instructions given in the

System components
paragraph “Guided diagnosis” (Sect. D 5).
For instructions on how to renew the sensor and check the air gap, see the chapter “Flywheel-
alternator” (Sect. N 8).
Injection relay
The relay (1) is positioned next to the battery and fixed to the battery support.
To remove the relay (1), first remove the battery support as described previously in this section.
Disconnect the relay from the electrical system and apply 12 V (battery voltage) between contacts
(86) and (85) (small contacts): you should hear a click that confirms that the internal electromagnet
has switched.
Connect a multimeter to contacts (30) and (87) (big contacts) to check for electrical continuity (see
Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments concerning operation of the multimeter). The resistance reading
should be near zero and, if present, the continuity sound signal should be emitted. If this does not
occur, the part must be renewed.
CAN Line
This model utilises a CAN line (Controller Area Network) which has made it possible to greatly simplify
the layout of the electrical system and consequently reduce its overall weight.
The CAN line is connected to two nodes:
the instrument panel and the Magneti Marelli engine ECU (I.A.W. 5 AM 2). This network makes it possible to avoid

System components
superfluous duplications of the sensors on the motorcycle, since their signals are shared by the two nodes and hence
the two processing units.
The sensors are connected to the nearer of the two units (instrument panel or ECU), which then
transmits their signal to the network so that it can be used by the ECUs.
The CAN line is composed of only two wires carrying series of digital signals, each of which contains
precisely defined and decodable information. The nodes connected to the line (instrument panel and
engine ECU) are equipped with hardware to determine when the signals are of interest to them and
should be used by their processors.
The signals exchanged over the CAN line between instrument panel and engine ECU are as follows:
- Motorcycle speed (input to engine ECU)
- Neutral selected (input to engine ECU)
- Engine oil pressure (input to engine ECU)
- Coolant temperature (input to engine ECU)
- Oil temperature (input to engine ECU)
- Starter motor actuation (starter button) (input to engine ECU)
- First level diagnostics code generated by the ECU
- Engine oil pressure (input to engine ECU)
- Scheduled service limit (light on instrument panel illuminates)
- Intake air temperature (input to instrument panel)
- Battery voltage
- Motorcycle model identification
- EOBD light control
- Immobilizer recovery
- Atmospheric pressure (sensor integrated in the instrument panel).
1

Engine
0Engine
1 - Removal–refitting of the engine assembly 5
Removal of the engine 6
Refitting the engine 9
2.1 - Lubrication system: oil pump 10

Removal of the oil pump 11
Disassembly of the oil pump 12
Reassembly of the oil pump 13
Refitting the oil pump 14
2.2 - Lubrication system: oil cooler 15

Removal of the lubrication system 16
Oil cooler inspection 18
Refitting the lubrication system 18
3.1 - Cooling system: coolant expansion tank 20

Removal of the expansion tank 21
Refitting the expansion tank 23
3.2 - Cooling system: radiator 26

Removal of the radiator 27
Renewal of the cooling fan 29
Refitting the radiator 30
Removal of the cooling system hoses and unions 32
Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions 35
3.3 - Cooling system: water pump 40

Removal of the water pump 41
Refitting the water pump 44
4.1 - Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments 49

Checking and adjusting the valve clearances 50
Checking valve lift 52
Checking the engine timing 54
4.2 - Cylinder head assemblies: timing 57

Removal of the timing belt covers 58
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Engine
Removal of the tensioner pulley/timing belt 59

Removal of the camshaft pulleys/idler pulley 59
Removal of the tensioner and idler pulley mounting studs 60
Disassembly of the camshaft pulleys 61
Removal of the timing belt driveshaft pulleys 62
Refitting the timing belt driveshaft rollers 64
Refitting the idler and tensioner pulley mounting studs 66
Reassembly of the timing pulleys 67
Refitting the camshaft pulleys/idler pulleys 68
Refitting the timing belts 71
Refitting the timing covers 73
4.4 - Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts 74

Removal of the camshafts 75
Checking the camshafts and supports 77
Refitting the camshafts 78
Removal of the intake manifold and coolant union 84
Refitting the intake manifold and coolant union 85
4.5 - Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms 86

Removal of the cylinder heads 87
Removal of the valves 88
Removing the valve rocker arms 89
Overhaul of cylinder head components 92
Reassembly of the cylinder head 99
Fitting the cylinder head assemblies 106
5 - Cylinder/piston assemblies 108

Removal of the cylinder/piston assembly 109
Overhaul of the cylinder barrel/piston components 112
Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly 117
6.1 - Clutch assembly: clutch 121

Description 122
Removal of the clutch 123
Inspection and overhaul of the clutch components 128
Reassembly of the clutch 130
6.2 - Clutch assembly: right-hand side crankcase cover 134

Engine
Removal of the right-hand side crankcase cover 135

Disassembly of the right-hand side crankcase cover 136
Reassembly of the right-hand crankcase cover 137
Refitting the right-hand side crankcase cover 139
6.3 - Clutch assembly: primary drive gears 141

Removal of the primary drive gears 142
Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash 145
7.1 - Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism 148

Removal of the gearchange mechanism 149
Disassembly of gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly 151
Refitting the gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly 152
Refitting the gearchange mechanism 153
7.2 - Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts 155

Removal of the gearbox assembly 156
Disassembly of the gearbox shafts 158
Overhaul of the gearbox 163
Inspection of the gear selector forks 164
Inspection of the gear selector drum 165
Reassembly of the gearbox shafts 166
Reassembly of the gearbox 170
8 - Flywheel-alternator 171
Removal of the left-hand side crankcase cover 172
Disassembly of the left-hand crankcase cover 174
Removal of the flywheel/alternator assembly 175
Overhaul of the flywheel/alternator assembly 177
Refitting the flywheel/alternator assembly 185
Refitting the left-hand crankcase cover 187
9.1 - Crankcase assembly: external components 190

Removal of external components 192
Refitting the external components 195
Removal of the timing gears 199
Refitting the timing gears 200
Removal of the starter motor idler gear 201
Refitting the starter motor idler gear 202

Engine
Checking the engine sensor air gap 204
9.2 - Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves 205

Separation of the crankcase halves 207
Overhaul of the crankcase halves 210
Main bearings 214
Shimming the shafts 218
9.3 - Crankcase assembly: connecting rods 229

Removal of the connecting rods assembly 230
Disassembly of the connecting rods 231
Overhaul of the connecting rods 232
Reassembly of the connecting rods 237
Refitting the connecting rods. 239

Removal–refitting of the engine assembly
1 - Removal–refitting of the engine assembly
1 Bolt
2 Nut
3 Bolt
4 Swingarm pivot shaft
5 Washer
6 Washer
1098 FRAME
1098 REAR FORK
1098S FRAME
1098S REAR FORK
Important
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Removal of the engine

In order to remove engine you must first remove a series of other components from the motorcycle.
Most of these removal procedures are described in the relative sections of this manual.
The following flow chart illustrates the logical sequence in which the parts are to be removed from the motorcycle and
a reference to the section where the removal procedure is described.
This section describes only the operations to be carried out after having removed all the parts listed in the diagram.
Place a stand beneath the engine to support it during removal from the frame.
Unscrew the nuts (2) on the right-hand side of the frame, on the two upper engine bolts (1) and recover the washers
(6).

Restrain the swingarm pivot shaft (4) from the left side of the motorcycle while undoing the bolt (3) with washer (5)
on the opposite side.
Use the drift 88713.1074 to fully extract the swingarm pivot shaft.
This frees the swingarm from the engine and therefore it can be left attached to the frame.

Remove the two upper bolts (1).
Withdraw the complete engine assembly from the frame by lowering it and pushing it forwards.

Refitting the engine

Important
Apply the recommended grease to the nuts (2) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Refit the removed parts by performing the steps shown in the table and in the specific sections of the manual in
reverse order.

Lubrication system: oil pump
2.1 - Lubrication system: oil pump
1 Complete oil pump assembly

2 O-ring
3 Circlip
4 O-ring
5 Pump body
6 Circlip
7 Reducer bush
8 Spring washer
9 Bolt
10 Bolt
11 Spring washer
12 Pump drive gear
13 Key
14 By-pass plug
15 Locating dowel
16 By-pass spring
17 By-pass valve
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1098 FILTERS AND OIL PUMP

1098S FILTERS AND OIL PUMP
Important
Removal of the oil pump

Drain the oil from the lubrication D 4, Changing the engine oil and
system filter cartridge
Remove the engine from the frame N 1, Removal of the engine
Remove the right-hand side N 6.2, Removal of the right-hand
crankcase cover side crankcase cover
Undo and remove the bolts (9) and (10) securing the pump assembly.
Remove the oil pump assembly (1) and extract O-rings (2) and (4) from the crankcase half together with two
centring bushes (15).
Disassembly of the oil pump

Hold the oil pump (1) in a vice taking care not to damage the drive gear (12).

Warning
Make sure that vice jaws are faced with soft material.
Remove the plug (14) and extract the spring (16) and by-pass valve (17).
Check the condition of the above components.

Remove the circlip (6) and withdraw the pump drive gear (12).
Reassembly of the oil pump

Check that the circlip (3) and Woodruff key (13) are both present on the pump.
Fit the pump drive gear (12) on to the oil pump and secure it by installing the circlip (6) in its groove.

Install in the pump the by-pass valve (17) and the spring (16); screw in the plug (14) and tighten to the specified
torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings) after applying a medium strength threadlocker.
Refitting the oil pump

Position the locating dowels (15) and the O-rings (2) and (4) in correspondence with the crankcase lubrication oilways.
Position the oil pump on the crankcase and tighten the bolts (9) and (10) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine
torque settings).

Check the gear backlash with the driving pinion by fixing dial gauge part no. 88765.1518, equipped with the
relevant stylus, to the crankcase.
Set dial gauge stylus on one tooth of oil pump gear and zero set instrument in this position.
Move gear slightly to measure play; take four readings in diametrically opposed positions of the gear.
The backlash should be 0.10 mm.

Refit the right-hand crankcase cover N 6.2, Refitting the right-hand side
crankcase cover
Refit the engine to the frame N 1, Refitting the engine
Fill the lubrication system with oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge

Lubrication system: oil cooler
2.2 - Lubrication system: oil cooler
1 Oil cooler
2 Rubber mounting
3 Spacer
4 Aluminium gasket
5 Nipple
6 O-ring
7 Oil hose
8 Plate
9 Bolt
10 Support
11 Bolt
1098 OIL COOLER

1098S OIL COOLER
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Important
Removal of the lubrication system

Drain the oil from the lubrication D 4, Changing the engine oil and
system filter cartridge
Undo the nuts (A) on the feed and return hoses (7) and the nipples (5) and disconnect them from the engine.
Unscrew the nipples (5) on the crankcase and recover the gaskets (4).
During removal, take care not to lose the O-rings (6) which ensure a tight seal.
Unscrew and remove the bolt (11) with the spacer (3) securing the oil cooler to the support (10). Remove the oil
cooler, withdrawing the pin (B) of the support (10).
The support (10) can now be removed by unscrewing the bolts (9).

Unscrew the bolt (9) securing the plate (8) to the oil cooler (1).
Unscrew the feed and return hoses (7) from the oil cooler (1).
Oil cooler inspection

Make a visual inspection of the oil cooler. Renew the cooler in the presence of damage or leaks.
Refitting the lubrication system
Notes
Before refitting the hoses (7), check that the O-rings (6) are installed and lubricate them with engine oil.

Locate the feed and return hoses (7) on the cooler with the plate (8) and tighten the bolt (9) to secure.
If removed, refit the support (10) securing it to the horizontal cylinder head with the two bolts (9).

Fit the oil cooler (1), first inserting it in the pin (B) of the support (10).
Fit the spacer (3) and the bolt (11).
Tighten the bolt (11) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Locate the gaskets (4) and the nipples (5) in their seats in the crankcase.
Tighten the nipples (5) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Locate the feed and return hoses (7) on the crankcase and tighten the nuts (A).

Fill the lubrication system D 4, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge

Cooling system: coolant expansion tank
3.1 - Cooling system: coolant expansion tank
1 Coolant expansion tank

2 Filler cap
3 Bolt
4 Bracket
5 Hose clip
6 Breather pipe
7 Breather pipe
8 Bolt
9 Washer
1098 COOLING CIRCUIT

1098S COOLING CIRCUIT
Important

Removal of the expansion tank

Drain the cooling system D 4, Changing the coolant
Remove the airbox L 6, Removal of the airbox and
throttle body
Loosen the clamp (5) and remove the hose (6) from the radiator.
Unscrew the two bolts (8) and recover the washers (9).
Remove the expansion tank (1) complete with the bracket (4) and the hoses (6) and (7).
Unscrew the bolts (3) to remove the tank (1) from the bracket (4).
Loosen the clamps (5) to remove the hoses (6) and (7) from the tank.

Refitting the expansion tank

Locate the hoses (6) and (7) on the tank with the clamps (5).
Tighten the bolts (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) to secure the tank (1) to the bracket
(4).
Locate the expansion tank (1) complete with the bracket (4) and the hoses (6) and (7).
Start the two bolts (8) with the washers (9) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Attach the hose (6) to the radiator with the clamp (5).

Refit the airbox L 6, Refitting the airbox and throttle
body
Fill the cooling system D 4, Changing the coolant
Positioning of the expansion tank-radiator connection hose


Cooling system: radiator
3.2 - Cooling system: radiator
1 Horizontal cylinder coolant outlet union

2 Pump/radiator hose
3 Bolt
4 Spacer
5 Rubber mounting
6 Radiator cap
7 Spacer
8 Bolt
9 RH cooling fan
10 Radiator
11 LH cooling fan
12 Bolt
13 Special screw
14 Clamp
15 Radiator/thermostat hose
16 Thermostat
17 Clamp
18 Thermostat/cylinder head hose

19 Seal
20 Vertical cylinder coolant outlet union
22 Thermostat/cylinder head hose
1098 WATER RADIATOR ASSY

1098 COOLING CIRCUIT
1098S WATER RADIATOR ASSY
1098S COOLING CIRCUIT
Important
Removal of the radiator

Refit the battery support M 3, Removal of the battery support
Loosen the clamps (14) on the coolant hoses (15) and (2); disconnect the hoses from the unions on the radiator (10).
Loosen the clamp (A) and remove the expansion tank-radiator hose (B).
Undo the bolt (3) with the spacer (4) fixing the radiator to the left-hand side of frame.

Disconnect the wiring connectors of the main wiring loom (C) from both fans.
Remove the radiator (10) from the motorcycle, withdrawing it from the pin (D), on the upper right-hand side of the
frame.
Radiator inspection
Visually inspect the radiator. If it shows signs of damage or leaks, the radiator must be renewed.
Check also that the air flow through the radiator core is not obstructed by leaves, insects, mud etc.
Important
An excessively high coolant temperature may be caused by partial obstruction of the radiator core.
Carefully check the condition of the radiator core.

Renewal of the cooling fan

Unscrew the three fan retaining bolts (8) and remove the fan (11) from the radiator.
Repeat the above operation for the other cooling fan (9).
When refitting the fan, tighten the bolts (8) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Refitting the radiator

Check that the rubber mountings (5) are present on the upper radiator brackets (10) and that the special screw (13)
is fitted.
Insert the support of radiator (10) on the pin (A) on the right-hand side of the frame and then fit the screw (3) with
the spacer (4) on the left-hand side.
Tighten the bolt (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Reconnect the fan wiring to the main wiring loom (C).
Connect the cooling system hoses (15) and (2) to their respective unions on the radiator and tighten the clamps (14)
to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Attach the expansion tank-radiator connection hose (B) to the inlet on the radiator cap with the clamp (A).

Refit the battery support M 3, Refitting the battery support
Refill the cooling system D 4, Changing the coolant
Removal of the cooling system hoses and unions

Remove the battery support M 3, Removal of the battery support
Loosen the clamps (14) securing the hose (2) connecting the radiator (10) to the pump and the radiator/thermostat
hose (15) to the thermostat (16).

Loosen the clamps (14) and (17) securing the thermostat assembly (16) – thermostat/cylinder head hose (18) -
thermostat/cylinder head hose (22).
Loosen the clamps (14) to dismantle the thermostat assembly (16) – thermostat/cylinder head hose (18) -
thermostat/cylinder head hose (22).

Undo the bolts (12) and remove the union (20).

Recover the O-rings (19) located between the union and the vertical cylinder head.
Disconnect the wiring connector (A) of the temperature sensor (21) on the horizontal cylinder head union (1) from
the main wiring loom.
Unscrew the bolts (12) and remove the horizontal cylinder union (1).
Recover the O-rings (19) located between the union and the horizontal cylinder head.
Important
Periodically check the connection hoses for signs of leaks.
Hoses that are cracked, swollen, or hardened should be renewed.
Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions

Install a seal (19) in the seat on the horizontal cylinder head union (1) and one in seat of the union (20).
Fix the union (1) to the horizontal cylinder head (12) and tighten the bolts to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame

torque settings).
Fix the union (20) to the horizontal cylinder head (12) and tighten the bolts to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame
torque settings).
Reconnect the wiring connector (A) of the temperature sensor (21) on the horizontal cylinder head union (1) from the
main wiring loom.
To reassemble the thermostat (16) - thermostat/cylinder head hose (18) – thermostat/cylinder head hose (22)
assembly, locate the clamps (14) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Locate the thermostat (16) - thermostat/cylinder head hose (18) – thermostat/cylinder head hose (22) assembly with
the clamps (14) and (17) and tighten the clamps to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Locate the pump/radiator hose (2) and radiator/thermostat hose (15) with the clamps (14) and tighten the clamps to
the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).


Refit the battery support M 3, Refitting the battery support
Positioning of the thermostat hose clamps

Positioning of the radiator hoses


Cooling system: water pump
3.3 - Cooling system: water pump
1 Bolt
2 Washer
3 Circlip
4 Washer
5 Outer bearing
6 Inner bearing
7 Spacer
8 Seal seat
9 Mechanical seal
10 Water pump impeller
11 Locating dowel
12 Water pump cover assembly
13 Bolt
14 Plug
15 Seal
16 Left-hand side crankcase cover
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1098 WATER PUMP - ALTERNATOR COVER

1098S WATER PUMP - ALTERNATOR COVER
Important
Removal of the water pump

Remove the cooling circuit hoses N 3.2, Removal of the cooling system
from the water pump cover hoses and unions
Remove the left-hand side crankcase N 8, Removal of the left-hand side
cover crankcase cover
Notes
For clarity, the figures show the engine removed from the frame.
Undo and remove the five screws (13) securing the water pump cover (12) to the left-hand side crankcase cover (16).
Remove the water pump cover (12).
Clean the pump housing of any scale. Rotate the rotor shaft (10) to check the bearings for wear. If there is excessive
play, change the bearings as follows.
Remove the circlip (3) and washer (4) from the impeller shaft.
Withdraw the impeller (10) with the mechanical seal (9) from the outside.

Recover the ceramic washer (A) and seal ring (B) located on the inner side.
Undo and remove the bolts (1) with washer (2).

Working from the rotor side use a suitable drift to press on the inner race of end bearing (5) until it can be extracted
from the cover.
Use the same technique to remove the other bearing (6).
Working from the inside of the cover, remove the seat (8) of the mechanical seal (9).
Remove the inner spacer (7).
Check the condition of the components of the mechanical seal: there should be no signs of deformation, cracking, or
excessive wear. In the case of damage, both components must be renewed.
Refitting the water pump

Clean the seat in the cover, any parts you intend to reuse, and the rotor shaft. Lubricate with engine oil and refit as
follows.
Using drift part no. 88713.0869 fit the new seal (9) on the impeller shaft.

Working from the inside of the cover, fit the inner spacer (7) with its square edge (A) facing outwards.
Using a suitable drift that bears on the outer race, drive home the bearing (6) against the spacer (7) with the shield
side facing the cover.
Fit the other bearing (5) and drive it fully home against the previously fitted bearing.
Fit the two bolts (1) with washers (2) and tighten them to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Now turn over the cover and fit the locating ring (8) using drift part no. 88713.0870. Position the ring as shown in
figure and push it until it seats against the spacer (7).
Fit the seal ring (B) and the ceramic washer (A).

Insert the impeller shaft (10) with the mechanical seal (9). Turn the cover over.
Insert rotor shaft (10) with seal and turn over the cover again.
Fit spacer (4), positioned as shown in the cross-sectional view, and lock the assembly in place with circlip (3).
Rotate the impeller (5) and make sure it turns smoothly without sticking.
Clean the mating surfaces thoroughly on the pump cover and on the left-hand side crankcase cover.

Apply a bead of liquid gasket to the water pump cover (12) as shown in the figure.
Fit the locating dowels (11) and position the pump cover (12) on the left-hand side crankcase cover.
Fit the screws (13) in their threads.
Tighten the screws (13) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Refit the components removed in the procedure.


Refit the left-hand side crankcase N 8, Refitting the left-hand crankcase
cover and connect the cooling system cover
hoses to the crankcase cover
Refit the cooling system hoses to the N 3.2, Refitting the cooling system
water pump cover hoses and unions
Fit the side fairings E 2, Refitting the side fairings

Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments
4.1 - Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments
1 Closing shim
2 Intake side camshaft
3 Opening shim
4 Exhaust side camshaft
5 Valve
1098 HEAD: TIMING

1098 VERTICAL HEAD
1098 HORIZONTAL HEAD
1098S HEAD: TIMING
1098S VERTICAL HEAD
1098S HORIZONTAL HEAD

Important
Checking and adjusting the valve clearances

Remove the radiator N 3.2, Removal of the radiator
throttle body
Remove the timing belts N 4.2, Removal of the tensioner
pulley/timing belt
Remove the rocker cover N 4.4, Removal of the camshafts
Notes
Checking the opening clearance

Move the piston of the cylinder being checked to TDC of the power stroke: in this condition all the valves are closed
and the camshafts are in their rest position and thus free to rotate.
Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the opening rocker arm (A) and the lower edge of the camshaft
cam (B).
The clearance must be within the specified limits (Sect. C 1.1 Timing system/valves).
If they are not, remove the opening shim (3), as described in the paragraph “Removal of the valves” Sect. N 4.5, and
replace it with a shim of appropriate thickness to obtain the specified clearance.
Notes
Opening rocker arm shims measuring 2 to 3.45 are available as replacement parts: each shim is marked with its size.

Checking the closing clearance

Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the closing rocker arm shoe (C) and the upper edge of the
camshaft cam (D), taking care not to compress the rocker arm return spring.
The clearance must be within the specified limits (Sect. C 1.1, Timing system/valves).
If it is not, remove the closing shim, as described in the paragraph “Removal of the valves” (Sect. N 4.5), and replace
it with a shim of suitable height to obtain the specified clearance.
Notes
Closing rocker arm shims measuring from 2.2 to 4.5 are available as replacement parts: each shim is marked with its
size.
Check and adjust the clearances of all valves.

Refit the opening and closing shims as described in the paragraph “Reassembly of the cylinder head” (Sect. N 4.5).

Checking valve lift

Put the engine in the condition described in “Checking and adjusting the valve clearances” above.
Install the dial gauge stand (E) 88765.1518 on the intake side camshaft bearing studs, and secure it with the knobs
(F).
Set the opening valve clearance to zero when the camshaft is in its rest position by fitting a feeler gauge between the
upper rocker arm and the opening shim.
Lock the dial gauge into the seat of the stand marked “A” and position the fork probe against the face of the closing
shim.
Set the dial gauge to zero when the valve is fully closed.
Rotate the intake camshaft so as to allow the intake valves to lift fully.
Check that the reading on the dial gauge corresponds to the specified value (Sect. C 1.1, Timing system/valves).
Repeat the same procedure with the exhaust valves, moving the stand to the opposite studs and fitting the dial gauge
into the seat marked “S” on the stand (E).

Refit following the procedure indicated in the previous paragraph “Checking and adjusting the valve clearances”.
Refit the components removed.

Refit the timing belts N 4.2, Refitting the timing belts
Refit the rocker cover N 4.4, Refitting the camshafts
body
Refit the radiator N 3.2, Refitting the radiator
Checking the engine timing

throttle body
Remove the timing belts N 4.2, Removal of the tensioner
pulley/timing belt
Remove the rocker cover N 4.4, Removal of the camshafts
Remove the water pump cover N 3.3, Removal of the water pump
Put the engine the condition described previously for the operation “Checking and adjusting the valve clearances”.
Install service tool (G) no. 88765.1188 in the spark plug bore to determine piston's TDC, along with gauges (H)
88765.1518 and the timing check tool (L) (timing degree wheel 88765.1523 with graduated disk).

Set the opening valve clearance to zero when the camshaft is in its rest position by fitting a feeler gauge between the
upper rocker arm and the opening shim.
Check that, in this condition, the camshaft can rotate. If it moves stiffly, use a thinner feeler gauge.
In this condition, with the piston of the horizontal cylinder at TDC with the valves fully closed as confirmed by the
reading on gauge (G), set the gauges (H) to zero.
Refit the belts and tension them as described in Sect. N 4.2, Refitting the timing belts.
Turn the degree wheel (L) counterclockwise until the dial gauge (H) on the exhaust side reads a lift of 1 mm. Check
that the angular displacement reading in degrees on the degree wheel (L) is as specified.
Continue to rotate in the same direction until you obtain a 1 mm lift on the intake side. Check the angular value on
the degree wheel.
Continue turning the shaft until you reach total closure of the valve on the expansion stroke.
Now reverse the rotation (i.e. clockwise) of the degree wheel (L) until gauge (H) shows a 1 mm lift of the intake
valve. Check that the angular value is as specified.
Rotate clockwise again until obtaining 1 mm lift of the exhaust valve. Check the angular value against the specified
value.
Repeat the procedure for the vertical cylinder.
Permissible tolerance for measured values is ±3° with respect to specified values.

Remove all tools installed for the timing check and tension the belts to their prescribed operating tension, as
described in Sect. D 5, Measuring timing belt tension.
If the values obtained are outside the specified ranges (Sect. C 1.1, Timing system/valves), loosen the timing pulley
screws (H) and correct the value by turning the camshaft nut with the wrench supplied with service tool
no. 88713.1806.
Then tighten the three timing pulley screws (H) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings) and mark
the new timing positions on the relative components.

Refit the components removed in the procedure.

Refit the water pump cover N 3.3, Refitting the water pump
Refit the timing belts N 4.2, Refitting the timing belts
Refit the rocker cover N 4.4, Refitting the camshafts
body

Cylinder head assemblies: timing
4.2 - Cylinder head assemblies: timing
1 Vertical cylinder timing belt cover

2 Air filter
3 Horizontal cylinder timing belt cover
4 Bolt
5 Filter cover
6 Bolt
7 Washer
8 Nut
9 Tensioner pulley assembly
10 Circlip
11 Camshaft pulley
12 Tensioner pulley mounting stud
13 Idler pulley assembly
14 Timing belt
15 Nut
16 Key
17 Spacer
18 Camshaft pulley

19 Driveshaft pulley spacer

20 Spacer
21 Nut
22 Bolt
23 Washer
24 Spacer flange
1098 TIMING
1098 HEAD: TIMING
1098S TIMING
1098S HEAD: TIMING
Important
Notes
To work with the engine installed, first proceed as follows:

Disconnect the electrical system P 1, Routing of wiring on frame
components on right-hand side of the
engine
Notes
Remove also any parts which may impede the procedure in any way.
Removal of the timing belt covers

Undo the bolts (4) securing the timing belt cover (1) and remove it from the vertical cylinder assembly.
Undo the bolts (4) securing the timing belt cover (3) and remove it from the horizontal cylinder unit.

Removal of the tensioner pulley/timing belt

Loosen the nut (8) and remove the tensioner pulley (9) from its mounting stud (12) on the cylinder head.
Remove the timing belt (14) from the horizontal cylinder assembly.
Important
If the belts are to be re-used, mark the direction of rotation with an arrow and also mark the cylinder they belong to.
Repeat the procedure for the other cylinder.
Removal of the camshaft pulleys/idler pulley

Insert tool part no. 88713.1806 on the pulleys to stop them rotating and use the bush supplied with it to slacken off
nuts (21) securing the pulleys.
Important
On reassembly, always use new nuts.
Remove the nuts (21) and the pulleys (11) from the camshafts.

Loosen the nut (8) and remove the idler pulley (13).
Repeat the same procedure to remove the other pulley.
Removal of the tensioner and idler pulley mounting studs

Using service tool no. 88713.1821, remove the tensioner pulley mounting studs (12) from the cylinder heads.
Disassembly of the camshaft pulleys

Undo and remove the bolts (22).
Slide off the washer (23).
Withdraw the camshaft pulley (11) from the spacer flange (24).

Removal of the timing belt driveshaft pulleys

Use the service tool no. 88713.1805 to hold the driving pulley against rotation.
Important
If this operation is carried out with the engine installed in the frame, hold the driveshaft pulleys against rotation by
using service tool no 88713.2011 mounted on the alternator cover.
Loosen the nut (15) using the socket supplied with the service tool.
Remove the nut (15), the spacer (20) and the outer pulley (18).

Remove the first Woodruff key (16) from the timing belt driveshaft.
Remove the intermediate spacer (19) and the inner pulley (18).
Remove the inner spacer (17) and second Woodruff key (16) on the timing belt driveshaft.
It is now possible to remove the circlip (10) on the driveshaft.

Refitting the timing belt driveshaft rollers

To fit the circlip (10) to the driveshaft, use the protective cap 88713.2834.
Install the inner spacer (17) on the driveshaft, taking care to align the notch in the spacer with the slot for the
Woodruff key.
Fit the first Woodruff key (16) on the timing belt driveshaft.

Locate the inner pulley (18).
Refit the second Woodruff key (16) and the washer (19).
Locate the outer pulley (18) and the spacer (20).

Apply the recommended grease to the threads on the end of the driveshaft.

Fit the nut (15).
Important
To prevent the nuts working loose and consequent serious engine damage, always use new self-locking nuts on all
timing belt pulleys on reassembly.
Lock rotation of the pulleys with service tool no. 88713.1805 and, using the insert supplied with the wrench in
conjunction with a torque wrench, tighten the self-locking nut to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque
settings).
Refitting the idler and tensioner pulley mounting studs

Apply the recommended threadlocker to the threads of the studs
To fit the studs correctly on the cylinder heads, note the references of the parts given in the photographs.
Insert the idler and tensioner pulley mounting studs (12) in the cylinder heads and tighten them using service tool
no. 88713.1821.
Tighten the pulley shafts to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Reassembly of the timing pulleys

Fit the pulley (11) on the hub (24), aligning the timing mark (D) on the pulley with the timing mark on the (E) on the
hub.
Fit the washer (23) up against the pulley, aligning the timing notch (F) with the timing marks on the pulley and the
hub.
Insert the three bolts (22) in the threaded holes (G) of the hub.
Tighten the bolts (22) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Refitting the camshaft pulleys/idler pulleys

Check that the keyway on the end of the camshaft is in good condition and without burrs.
Fit a Woodruff key (B) in the keyway of each camshaft.
Fit the pulley (11) on the camshaft, inserting the Woodruff key in the in the slot (C) in the pulley.
Apply the recommended grease to the threads on the end of the camshaft.
Repeat the procedure on the other camshaft.

Fit the service tool 88713.1806 on to the pulleys to prevent rotation.

Apply the recommended grease to the mating face of the nut (21).
Fit the nut (21).
Carry out the same operations on the other camshaft.
Important
Always fit new nuts on reassembly.
Using the bush supplied with service tool 88713.1806 and a torque wrench, tighten the nuts (21) to their specified
Fit the idler pulleys (13), complete with bearings, on to their mounting studs on the cylinder heads and tighten down
the nuts (8) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Unscrew the bolts (22) securing the pulleys, turning them anti-clockwise through 90° ± 5°.
Check that the pulleys have no endfloat and can rotate freely at all points along the full length of the slots.
Refitting the timing belts

Turn the pulleys on the timing belt driveshaft until the timing mark on the outer roller is aligned with the mark on the
right-hand crankcase cover.
In this condition, the horizontal cylinder piston will be at top dead centre.
Install the service tool 88713.2011 in the alternator cover to hold the crankshaft against rotation and secure it the
relative pin.

Fit the service tool no. 88765.1524 to prevent rotation of the camshafts: one for the vertical cylinder head and one
for the horizontal cylinder head.
Fix the tools to the rocker cover with the pin (C).
Important
To ensure correct timing, the bolts (22) securing the pulleys to the hubs must be loose and positioned in the centres
of their slots.
Fit the vertical cylinder timing belt around the camshaft pulleys and pass it behind the idler pulley.
Repeat the operation for the horizontal cylinder belt.
Notes
If the used belts are to be refitted, position them in their original direction of rotation and on their original cylinder.
Fit the tensioner pulleys (9) on the mounting studs on the two cylinder heads.
Start the nut (8) on the crankshaft.

Check the timing belt tension and adjust if necessary as described in the paragraph “Measuring timing belt
tension” (Sect. D 5).
Warning
Check the tension on the belt sections (D) and (E) shown in the figure.
Once the belts are correctly tensioned, ensure that the nuts (8) securing the tensioner pulley (9) and the bolts (22)
are tightened to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Remove the camshaft holding tool 88765.1524 and the crankshaft holding tool 88713.2011.
Refitting the timing covers

Locate the horizontal cylinder timing cover (3) and secure it in place with bolts (4).

Do the same with the vertical cylinder outer cover (1).

Tighten the bolts (4) progressively in a crosswise pattern to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Notes
If the above operations have been carried out with the engine installed in the frame, refit the previously removed
parts.

Reconnect the electrical system P 1, Routing of wiring on frame
components on right-hand side of
engine

Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts
4.4 - Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts
1 Cylinder head
2 Stud bolt
3 Special screw
4 Seal
5 Horizontal cylinder head rocker cover
6 Vertical cylinder head rocker cover
7 Special screw
8 Washer
9 Cylinder head gasket
10 Grub screw
11 Locating dowel
12 Union
13 Clamp
14 Horizontal cylinder exhaust camshaft
15 Horizontal cylinder intake camshaft
16 Plug
17 Oil seal
18 Vertical cylinder exhaust camshaft
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19 Key
20 Vertical cylinder intake camshaft
21 Bolt
22 Timing side support
23 Opposite side support
24 Seal
25 Intake manifold
26 Bolt
27 Washer
1098 HEAD: TIMING

1098 VERTICAL HEAD
1098 THROTTLE BODY
1098S HEAD: TIMING
1098S VERTICAL HEAD
1098S THROTTLE BODY
Important
Removal of the camshafts

Remove the coils M 3, Ignition coils
Remove the timing belt covers, the N 4.2, Removal of the timing belt
timing belts and timing belt pulleys covers
Remove the oil pump from the engine N 2.1, Removal of the oil pump
Unscrew and remove the bolts (7) from the rocker covers.
Remove the rocker cover (6).
Remove the gaskets (4) and (9).

Repeat the same procedure for the other rocker cover.

Remove the seals (8) on the rocker cover.
Unscrew the bolts (3) securing the camshaft supports.

Withdraw the camshaft supports (22) and (23) straight out from the cylinder head, taking care not to damage the
machined faces and locating dowels (11).

Remove the exhaust camshaft (14) and the intake camshaft (15), and slide off the seal rings (17) on their ends.
Repeat the same procedure for the other cylinder head.
If necessary, unscrew the stud bolts (2) from the cylinder heads.
Checking the camshafts and supports

Check the cam contact surfaces for scratches, grooves, steps and waving.
Worn cams are frequently the cause of poor timing, which leads to loss of engine power.
Place the camshaft between two centres and check the runout using two dial gauges.
Service limit: 0.1 mm.

Visually inspect the camshaft tracks for scoring and abnormal wear. If any of the above defects are found, the
camshaft should be renewed.
If you find scoring or excessive wear, check the operation of the engine lubrication circuit.

Refitting the camshafts

If the stud bolts (2) were removed, apply the recommended threadlocker to the short end of the stud bolts (2), i.e.
the end that is to be screwed into the cylinder head.
Tighten the lock nuts (2) to the prescribed torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Check that the camshafts (marked “VA” and “VS” for the vertical head and “OS” and “OA” for the horizontal head) are
clean and in good condition. If the camshafts are not new, use emery cloth to remove signs of wear on the cam and
support surfaces, working on a flat surface.
Lubricate with the specified lubricant (Molycote M55 Plus), the camshaft seats on both the cylinder head and the
supports (22) and (23) (green zone).
Fill the reservoirs (A) with the recommended lubricant (Molycote M55 Plus).

Apply sealant (Three Bond 1215 liquid gasket) at the four points of the support (22) shown in red in the photo. Clean
off any excess sealant.
Notes
Only apply sealant to the timing side support (22): do not apply to support (23).
Install the camshafts (14) and (15) in the cylinder head, and rotate them to distribute the lubricant evenly.
Check that the locating dowels (11) are present.
Fit the supports (22) and (23) so they are perfectly seated on the cylinder head, checking that the number stamped
in zone (B) of the cylinder head is the same as the number stamped in zone (C) of the support.
Important
The support (22) must be installed on the timing side.

Bed down the supports.

Apply engine oil to the threads and undersides of the heads of the bolts (3).
Insert the bolts (3).
Pre-tighten the bolts (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Pre-tighten one support at a time, working in the sequence 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8.
Then finally tighten the bolts to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Tighten one support at a time, working in the sequence 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8.
Remove any excess sealant from between the cylinder head and the support.
Turn the camshafts by hand to check that they rotate freely.
Notes
The bolt (3) in position 1 must always be installed on the intake and timing side.

Important
Check the valve lift as explained in Sect. N 4.1, Checking valve lift.
Oil seals
Lubricate the oil seals (17) with denatured alcohol.
Fit the installation tool supplied with service tool 88713.2861 on the camshaft and install the oil seal on the cylinder
head with the spring side.
Important
Always fit new oil seals on reassembly.
Use the drift provided with the tool and a mallet to seat the oil seals.
When correctly installed, the oil seal should be flush with the bevel of the cylinder head bore.

Rocker cover
Apply sealant (Three Bond 1215 liquid gasket) at the four points of the rocker cover shown in red in the photo.
Fit the gaskets (4) and (9) on the rocker cover, as shown in the figure.
Apply sealant (Three Bond 1215 liquid gasket) at the four points of the cylinder head shown in red in the photo.
Rocker cover identification: The vertical head rocker cover (6) has a nib (A) on the left-hand side (exhaust side),
whereas rocker cover (5) has a nib (B) on the right-hand side (exhaust side).

Locate the cover (6) on the cylinder head, aligning the four fixing holes.
Install the four washers (8) in the cover fixing holes, with the rubber sides facing the cover.
Insert the bolts (7).

Tighten screws (7) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings) in the indicated sequence.
Remove excess sealant from the area of application.

Refit all the components removed in the procedure.

Refit the oil pump N 2.1, Refitting the oil pump
Refit the timing belt pulleys, timing N 4.2, Refitting the timing belt
belts and the timing belt covers driveshaft rollers

Refit the coils M 3, Ignition coils
Removal of the intake manifold and coolant union

throttle body
Remove the manifolds (25) by undoing the bolts (21).
Notes
When the lower two bolts (21) of the vertical cylinder head manifold are unscrewed, the expansion tank support will
come free.
Loosen the clamp (A) and remove the hose (B).

Unscrew the union (12) and recover the seal (24).

Refitting the intake manifold and coolant union

Apply the recommended threadlocker to the union (12), fit it with seal (24) and tighten to the specified torque
(Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Refit the hose (B) and tighten the clamp (A) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Check that the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and manifold are perfectly flat and clean and install the intake
manifold (25) on the cylinder head.
Relocate the expansion tank support (Sect. N 3.1, Refitting the expansion tank).
Tighten the four bolts (21) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings) in a crosswise pattern (1-2-3-4).


body

Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms
4.5 - Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms
1 Closing rocker arm shaft

2 Opening rocker arm shaft
3 Opening rocker arm
4 Closing rocker arm (left)
5 Valve opening shim
6 Half rings
7 Valve closing shim
8 Oil seal
9 Valve guide
10 Exhaust valve seat
11 Exhaust valve
12 Plug
13 Intake valve seat
14 Intake valve
15 Aluminium gasket
16 Closing rocker arm (right)
17 Spacer
18 Valve return spring (right)
file:///C|/1098/wsm/usa/1098S_07_N_4E9_00.69.1.html (1 of 24) [15-8-2008 0:12:38]

19 Valve return spring (left)

20 Cylinder head
21 Cylinder head nut
22 Washer
1098 HALF CRANKCASES

1098 VERTICAL HEAD
1098S HALF CRANKCASES
1098S VERTICAL HEAD
Important
Removal of the cylinder heads

Remove the coolant hoses N 3.2, Removal of the cooling system
hoses and unions
Remove the timing belt covers and N 4.2, Removal of the timing belt
the timing belts covers
Remove the oil pump N 2.1, Removal of the oil pump
Using the service tool 88713.2676, unscrew the nuts (21) on the cylinder head studs.
Remove the cylinder head nuts (21) and special washers (22).

Remove the cylinder head assembly by lifting it off the engine studs.
Removal of the valves

Remove the cylinder head assembly N 4.5, Removal of the cylinder heads
from the engine
Remove the timing belt pulleys N 4.2, Removal of the camshaft
pulleys/idler pulley
Remove the camshafts N 4.4, Removal of the camshafts
Raise the rocker arm (3) and remove the opening shim (5) from the valves with a pair of pliers.
Push down the closing rocker arms (16) and (4) and the closing shim (7).

Remove the half rings (6) from the valves with a magnetic screwdriver. Extract the closing shims (7) from the valve
using a pair of pliers.
Withdraw the valves (14) and (11) from underside of the cylinder head.
Removing the valve rocker arms

With the cylinder head in the condition described in the previous paragraph, remove the rocker arms.
Unscrew the eight plugs (12) and recover the seals (15).

Using an M5 bolt, withdraw the shafts (2) of the opening rocker arms (3) on the exhaust and intake sides.
Remove the opening rocker arms (3).
Using accessory (C) of the rocker arm spring tensioning kit 88713.2069 installed between the spring and the inner
wall of the cylinder head, move the straight end of the rocker arm return spring (19) and (18) and insert it in the
drilled shaft.

Use the shaft to slide the end of the spring into its final position.
Using an M5 bolt, withdraw the shafts (1) of the closing rocker arms on the exhaust and intake sides.
Remove the closing rocker arms (4) and (16), the springs (18) and (19) with the spacers (17).

Remove the seal rings (8) from the ends of the valve guides.

Overhaul of cylinder head components
Cylinder heads
Remove any carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and its ducts.
Remove any scale from the coolant ducts.
Check for cracking and inspect the sealing surfaces for scoring, ridges or other damage.
Check that the cylinder barrel mating surfaces of the cylinder head are free of carbon deposits and scale. If this is not
the case, spread diamond dressing compound (6 to 12 micron thickness) on a reference surface and slide the cylinder
head on the surface as shown in the figure until a flat finish is obtained.
Valve seat
Visually inspect the valve seats: for cracking or pitting.

Minor damage can be repaired by grinding with special 45° and 60° single-blade grinders. Grind the valves and check
the seal.
If the valve seats are excessively damaged, fit oversize seats. Replacement seats are available with 0.03 and
0.06 mm oversized outside diameters.
Important
When you change the valve seats, change the valve guides as well.
Proceed as follows:
Remove the worn seats, grinding carefully to avoid any damage to cylinder head bores.
Check the diameter of head bores and choose the oversized valve seat that will give an interference fit of 0.04 to
0.10 mm.
Heat the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 150° and chill the new valve seats in dry ice.
Drive the seats perfectly square into the head bores using the appropriate valve guide seat installer 88713.2846 and
88713.2847.

Allow the cylinder head to cool down and grind the seats to the following dimensions:
CA = Ø41,6± 0.025 mm.
CS = Ø33.6± 0.025 mm
S = 1.2 mm.
D = 0.2 to 0.4 mm
Important
Do not use any lapping compound after final grinding.
It is advisable to smooth the joint between the intake valves seats and the intake ducts (F = before; G = after).

Valve guides
Check the inner surface of the valve guides for cracking or distortion.
Thoroughly check the dimensions of the inner surface of the valve guide. Measure the inside diameter with a bore
diameter gauge.
Measure the diameter at different positions of the valve guide.
The assembly clearance must be:

highest measured value – lowest measured value = 0.03 to 0.045 mm.
The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.08 mm.
Change the valve guides when the ovality exceeds permissible limit or the clearance to the valve stem is outside the
tolerance range.
When you change the valve guide, you must also change the valve.
Replacement valve guides are available with outside diameter oversizes of 0.03, 0.06 and 0.09 mm.
Change the valve guides as follows:
heat up the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 150 °C.
remove the original valve guides using service tool no. 88713.2842
allow the cylinder head to cool down and check the condition of the seats.
select the most suitable valve guide so as to obtain an assembly clearance with the cylinder head of 0.022 to
0.051 mm; heat the cylinder head up again and chill the new valve guides with dry ice;
lubricate the seats in the head and install the valve guides using the appropriate service tools and referring to
dimension given in the figure;
A= 22.4±0.15 mm.
B= 28.45±0.15 mm.
Hone the mating surface with a reamer.

Checking the valve

Check that the stem and the surface that contacts the valve seat are in good condition.
There must be no pitting, cracks, deformations or signs of wear.
Warning
The valves cannot be ground.
Perform the following checks.

Measure the diameter of the valve stem (B) at various points along the section that runs in the valve guide.
Check the valve stem for buckling. Place it on a “V” block and measure deformation with a dial gauge.
Check that valve head band (at 45° to valve head top face) is concentric to the valve stem as follows: place valve on
a V block, set a dial gauge at right angles to head and rotate valve.
Nominal concentricity: 0.01 mm.

Use Prussian blue or a mixture of minium and oil to check that the contact surface (W) between the valve and seat is
1.4 to 1.6 mm (1.05 to 1.35 mm when new). Grind the seat if the dimension measured is greater than the above
limit.
Checking the valve seal

After grinding the seats it is important to check the seal between the valve face and the seat: if the seat contact area
(S) on the valve is wider than the 45° band (W) this could lead to poor sealing.

Checking the rocker arms

Check for signs of wear, grooves or chrome flaking off.
Check the condition of rocker arm bore and shaft.
Assembly clearance: 0.025 to 0.049 mm
Wear limit: 0.08 mm.
Opening and closing shims - Springs

Check the condition of the contact surfaces of the valve opening and closing shims: there must be no signs of wear.
Check the condition of the closing rocker arm return springs:
Check for cracking, distortion, or loss of elasticity.

Reassembly of the cylinder head
Notes
The cylinder heads are identical. Only the definition of the intake and exhaust side determines whether they are to be
installed on the vertical or horizontal cylinder.
The exhaust side can be identified by the three threaded holes on the flange.
The intake side can be identified by the presence of four threaded holes on the flange.
All the photos in this chapter refer to a vertical cylinder head.
Valve guide seals

Position the cylinder head on the service stand 88713.2103.
Use alcohol to lubricate the valve guide seals (8) and insert them from the spring side onto tool 88713.2442.
Fit the end of the tool into the valve guide and use a mallet to tap the seals (8) home into the valve guides.

Reassembly of the closing rocker arms.

Check that the rocker arms are not scored or show signs of breakage in the area of contact with the camshaft and
shim.
The closing rocker arm shafts are 10 mm in diameter, whereas the opeining rocker arm shafts are 9 mm in diameter.
Using an M5 bolt, position the closing rocker shaft (1) towards the exhaust side of the cylinder head.
Locate the spacer (17) on the shaft.

Locate the spring (18) on the spacer (17).
Locate the closing rocker arm (16) and drive the shaft home.
Proceed in a similar manner to install the closing rocker arm (4) with the spring (19) from the exhaust side.

Load the springs (18) and (19) on the closing rocker arms (16) and (4) respectively using service tool
no 88713.2069.
Proceed to install the closing rocker arms (4) and (16), the relative springs and shafts on the intake side (C) in the
same manner as described for the exhaust side (D).
Notes
Always install the closing rocker arms on the exhaust side before those on the intake side.
Warning
Take care not to damage the shoe of the closing rocker arm with the intake spring during assembly.

Refitting the valves, closing shims and half rings

Carefully clean the two intake valve seats (A) and the two exhaust valve seats (B).
Lubricate the stems of the two intake valves (14) and the two exhaust valves (11) with engine oil.
Install the valves in respective seats in the cylinder head.
Hold the closing rocker arm (16) pushed downwards and fit the closing shim (7) on the valve stem. If using the old
cylinder head, start by fitting the original shim.
Insert the new half rings (6) and release the rocker arm to ensure that they seat inside the shim (7). To ensure the
half-rings are seated in the shim, tap the end of the rocker arm (16) with a rubber mallet.

Repeat the procedure with the opposite valve and check that the top of the valve stem is aligned with the surface of
the shim (7); if it is not, repeat the half-ring installation procedure.
Install the closing shims on the intake valves (14) using the method described above for the exhaust valves.
Refit the camshafts (Sect. N 4.4, Refitting the camshafts) to check the valve closing clearances (Sect. N 4.1, Checking
and adjusting the valve clearances).
Refitting the opening shims and opening rocker arms

Using an M5 bolt, position the opening rocker arm shaft (2) (diameter 9 mm).

Locate the opening rocker arm (3) and drive the shaft home.
Install the four rocker arms (3) in the manner described above.
Raise the opening rocker arm (3) and install the opening shim (5) so it seats against the valve stem.

Release the rocker arm so that it rests against the shim.

Ensure the shim is correctly seated by lightly tapping the rocker arm shoe (A) with plastic mallet.
Refit the camshafts (Sect. N 4.4, Refitting the camshafts) to check the valve opening clearances (Sect. N 4.1,
Checking and adjusting the valve clearances).
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the plugs (12).

Fit the eight plugs (12) with their seals (15): position the seals so that the square edges face the cylinder head.
Tighten the plugs to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Refit the camshaft supports N 4.4, Refitting the camshafts
Refit the timing belt pulleys N 4.2, Refitting the camshaft pulleys/
idler pulleys

Refit the rocker covers N 4.4, Refitting the camshafts

Refit the cylinder head assembly N 4.5, Fitting the cylinder head
assemblies
Fitting the cylinder head assemblies

Before fitting the head, check that gasket is installed on the mating surface between head and cylinder (Sect. N 5,
Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly).
Notes
When fitting the gasket, side (E) with the stamped code must be in contact with the cylinder head.
Lower the cylinder head carefully over the studs. Take care not to damage the threads.
Fit the special washers (22) and nuts (21) onto the cylinder head studs.

Tighten the nuts (21) on the studs in the sequence 1-3-2-4 using service tool 88713.2676 in conjunction with a
torque wrench.
Pre-tighten and tighten the cylinder head nuts (21) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Refit the coolant hoses N 3.2, Refitting the cooling system
hoses and unions
Refit the oil pump N 2.1, Refitting the oil pump
Refit the timing belts and covers N 4.2, Refitting the camshaft pulleys/
idler pulleys

Cylinder/piston assemblies
5 - Cylinder/piston assemblies
1 Piston
2 Gudgeon pin circlip
3 Gudgeon pin
4 Set of piston rings
5 Cylinder-crankcase gasket
6 Water pump outlet union
7 Hose clip
8 Horizontal cylinder coolant inlet hose
9 Vertical cylinder coolant inlet hose
10 Cylinder barrel
11 Cylinder head gasket
12 Bush
1098 CYLINDERS - PISTONS

1098S CYLINDERS - PISTONS

Important
Removal of the cylinder/piston assembly

Loosen the clamps (7) and remove the hoses (8) and (9) from the cylinder barrels (10) and from the left-hand
crankcase cover.
Unscrew the unions (6).
Notes
The following procedure is described with the engine removed from the frame and the cylinder head removed from
the engine (Sect. N 4.5, Removal of the cylinder heads).

Remove the cylinder head gasket (11) from the cylinder barrel.
Remove the locating dowels (12).
Use service tool no. 88765.1523 to bring the piston of the horizontal cylinder to TDC.
Carefully lift the cylinder barrel (10) off the crankcase, keeping it vertical.
If necessary, rock the cylinder slightly using both hands or tap its base gently with a rubber mallet. Continue to lift
the cylinder until you can access the gudgeon pin (3).
Since insertion of piston in the barrel is a difficult operation to perform at the time of reassembly, remove the piston
together with the barrel as described below.
Stuff the crankcase opening with a rag or soft paper to prevent foreign material from falling in.

Remove the circlip (2) from the gudgeon pin (3) on the clutch side.
Working from the opposite side, drive out the gudgeon pin sufficiently to release the connecting rod.
Lift the barrel/piston assembly clear of the crankcase studs. If work is to be carried out on the piston, carefully
withdraw it from the cylinder.
Remove the four O-rings (A) located on the crankcase studs between the barrel and the base gasket (5).

Important
Mark the pistons to show from which cylinder they were removed:
V= Vertical - H= Horizontal
To remove the vertical barrel-piston assembly, bring the vertical piston to TDC and proceed as for removal of the
horizontal cylinder barrel.
Overhaul of the cylinder barrel/piston components
Overhauling the cylinder

Check that the walls are perfectly smooth. Measure the cylinder bore diameter at 50 mm from the top surface and
determine the size class to which it belongs in accordance with the values specified in Sect. C 1.1, Cylinder/Piston.
Measure the bore diameter again at three different heights A, B and C and at positions offset by 90°; check that the
measurements of taper and ovality in the bore fall within the range specified in Sect. C 1.1, Cylinder/Piston.
In the event of damage or excessive wear the barrel must be renewed as it has a silicon carbide coating (which
provides the cylinder walls with excellent anti-friction and anti-wear properties) and therefore cannot be rebored.
The cylinder barrels are marked with letters (stamped between two oil return ways) indicating their size class.
Always match cylinders with pistons from the same size class.

Overhauling the piston

Clean the piston crown and piston ring grooves of any carbon deposits.
Inspect the piston and check its dimensions carefully: there must be no signs of scuffing, scoring, cracks, or other
damage.
The piston diameter must be measured at 7.5 mm up from the bottom of the skirt at a 90º angle to the gudgeon pin.
The pistons must always be renewed as a pair.
Checking the piston-cylinder clearance

The pistons are marked by a letter (punched into the piston crown) that indicates the size class to which they belong.
Always match cylinders with pistons from the same size class.
For the values, refer to Sect. C 1.1, Cylinder/Piston.

Overhauling the gudgeon pins

Gudgeon pins must be perfectly smooth without signs of scoring, steps, or blueing due to overheating. The well-
lubricated gudgeon pin must slide smoothly inside the piston without stiffness.
The assembly clearance with the piston at the time of installation must be 0.002-0.008 mm.
The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.035 mm.
If a new gudgeon pin is fitted, you must also change the connecting rod small end bush.
Overhauling the piston rings

The piston rings must not show any signs of scuffing or scoring. Replacement pistons are supplied complete with
piston rings and gudgeon pin.

Checking the piston ring-grooves clearance
The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.15 mm for the top compression ring (1st) and 0.10 mm for the others (2nd
and oil control ring).
The markings punched on the piston rings must always be facing upwards.

Checking the piston ring/cylinder clearance

Insert the ring in the cylinder bore so that it is positioned 50 mm from the top face of the cylinder barrel; make sure
that the ring is positioned perfectly square to the cylinder walls by checking with a gauge at several points around the
ring that the top surface of the ring is exactly 50 mm from the top face of the cylinder barrel.
Measure the piston ring gap (A):
Distance (A) mm Wear limit

Top compression ring 0,2 ÷ 0,4 0,8
Second compression ring 0,3 ÷ 0,5 0,8
Oil control ring 0,2 ÷ 0,7 1,0

Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly

If you are using new cylinders and pistons, combine cylinders and pistons belonging to the same class (see “Overhaul
of the cylinder barrel/piston components” in this section).
If the pistons have been separated from their cylinders, before reassembling these components, position the piston
ring gaps at 120° from one another (the marks must always face the piston crown).
Use a universal tool to carefully insert the piston into the cylinder (first lubricate the inside of the cylinder with engine
oil). Position the cylinder with the smallest valve recess is on the side of the exhaust port.
Remove any deposits and degrease the contact surfaces of the crankcase and the cylinders.
Check that the cylinder barrel locating dowels (B) are fitted on the crankcase.

Apply sealant to the gasket (5) then locate the gasket on the crankcase.
Using the cap 88713.1920, fit the O-rings (A) on each stud and guide them into their seats in the crankcase.
Bring the connecting rod small end close to TDC and slide the barrel-piston assembly (1-10) onto the crankcase studs.
Push the connecting rod small end into the piston close to the gudgeon pin (3) bore. Lubricate and insert the gudgeon
pin.

The gudgeon pin (3) must slide smoothly in the connecting rod small end bush and in the piston (1).
Stuff the crankcase opening with a cloth to prevent foreign objects from falling inside and then fit circlip (2).
Important
Always use new circlips (2) on reassembly.
Push the cylinder barrel (10) down until it seats against the crankcase.
Refit the locating dowels (12).

Fit the cylinder head gasket (11) over the studs. The side marked with the part number must be facing the head.
Notes
The shape prevents incorrect fitting of the gasket, provided that the coolant flow holes are aligned with those on the
cylinder.
Repeat the procedure for the other cylinder barrel and refit the cylinder heads (Sect. N 4.5, Fitting the cylinder head
assemblies).
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the unions (6) and tighten them to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine
torque settings).
Fit the hoses (8) and (9) and tighten the clamps (7) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).


Clutch assembly: clutch
6.1 - Clutch assembly: clutch
1 Clutch spring
2 Collar
3 Clutch lifter
4 Bolt
5 Lock washer
6 Cush drive rubber
7 Cush drive hub
8 Clutch plates
9 Thrust washer
10 Clutch centre
11 Bolt
12 Pressure plate
13 Clutch drum
14 Bearing
15 O-ring
16 Spacer
17 O-ring
18 Nut

19 Locating dowel
20 Bush
21 Clutch cover gasket
22 Clutch cover
23 Bolt
24 Bolt
1098 CLUTCH
1098 CLUTCH COVER
1098S CLUTCH
1098S CLUTCH COVER
Important
Description
The clutch is disengaged by a slave cylinder consisting of a piston (1) housed inside a cylinder mounted to the left-
hand crankcase cover. This piston (1) moves a pushrod (2), which runs through gearbox input shaft and operates the
pressure plate (3) located on top of the clutch plate pack (4).
Motion is transmitted from the clutch centre (5) to the primary shaft through special cush drive rubbers (6), which
make for smoother clutch engagement and thus prevent damage to transmission parts. Before working on the
internal clutch parts, check that the clutch operates correctly. Then deal with the problem in a systematic manner.
The following is a list of possible causes of clutch malfunctions.
A clutch which does not disengage may be caused by:

- excessive play of the control lever;

- distorted clutch plates;
- incorrect spring tension;
- faulty clutch release mechanism;
- excessive wear of the hub or clutch drum.
A clutch which slips may be caused by:

- insufficient play of the control lever;
- worn clutch plates;
- weakened springs;
- faulty clutch release mechanism;
- excessive wear of the hub or clutch drum.
A noisy clutch may be caused by:

- excessive backlash between the primary drive gears;
- damaged primary drive gear teeth;
- excessive play between driving plate tabs and clutch drum;
- worn gear/clutch drum bearings;
- worn cush drive rubbers;
- the presence of metal particles (filings) on the gear teeth.
Removal of the clutch

Notes
Undo the four retaining bolts (23) and the two retaining bolts (24) from the clutch cover (22).
Remove the cover and the sound deadening gasket (21).

Unscrew the retaining bolts (4) and remove the collars (2) and the clutch springs (1).
Remove the pressure plate (12).

Remove the clutch lifter (3) and its O-ring (17) using a suitable drift and a plastic headed mallet.
Then remove the bearing (14) installed from inner side of the pressure plate (12) using a drift of suitable size.
Notes
Once disturbed, the bearing must be renewed.
Remove the clutch plates (8).

When removing the clutch plates, keep them together in pairs in the correct order and set them aside, tying them
together, if necessary.
Restrain the clutch centre (10) using service tool 88713.2133 and remove the centre nut (18).

Remove the washer (5), bush (20) and thrust washer (9).
Remove the clutch centre (10) complete with the cush drive rubbers from the shaft.

When renewing the cush drive rubbers (6), use a drift to remove the hub (7) from the clutch centre (10) and
overcome the resistance of the rubbers.
Slide off the spacer (16), taking care not to damage its internal O-ring (15).
Visually check the O-ring for wear and renew it if necessary.

Locate the service tool 88713.1805 to prevent the clutch drum from rotating when loosening the screws (11).
Notes
If no cover parts need to be serviced, leave the clutch drum assembly and the primary drive gear installed on the
clutch cover.
Undo the eight bolts (11) securing the clutch drum to the primary drive gear.
Remove the clutch drum.
Inspection and overhaul of the clutch components
Checking the clearance between the clutch drum and the friction plates
Insert the friction plate (A) in the clutch drum (B) and measure tang-to-slot clearance (S) with a feeler gauge.
The clearance “S” must not exceed 0.6 mm.
If it does, renew the plates and, if necessary, the clutch drum.

Overhaul of the friction plates

The friction plates must not show any signs of blackening, grooves or deformation.
Measure the thickness of the friction plates. It should not be less than 2.8 mm.
Place the plate on a flat surface and check the amount of deformation with a feeler gauge.
Max flatness error: 0.2 mm.
Overhaul of the pressure plate

Check the condition of the bearing: renew the bearing if the play is excessive.
Check the contact surface of last plain steel plate. If extremely scored, polish it in the same manner as described
previously for the cylinder head surface.
Check the condition of the spring guide cups and always replace the spring retaining collars.

Overhaul of the clutch springs

Measure the length “L” of each spring:
Minimum length: 36,5 mm.
Renew any springs that are shorter than the above limit value.
Reassembly of the clutch

Assemble the clutch drum to the primary drive gear.
Apply threadlocker to the threads of the eight retaining bolts (11) and insert them into the gear.
Important
Use new bolts.
Tighten the bolts (11) to the specified torque working in a crosswise pattern (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Fit the spacer (16) to the gearbox input shaft along with the lubricated O-ring (15). The O-ring side should face the
engine.

Fit the clutch centre (10) complete with the cush drive rubbers onto the input shaft.
Fit the following parts onto the end of the input shaft:
- thrust washer (9);
- bush (20) with pin (19) in the cush drive hub;
- safety washer (5) and nut (18).
Restrain the clutch centre with the service tool 88713.2133 and tighten the retaining nut to the specified torque

Fit the clutch plates (8) in the following order (see figure):
- two plain plates (G) 1.5 mm thick;
- one friction plate (H) 3 mm thick;
- a convex plate (L) 1.5 mm thick, installed as shown in cross-section;
a set of six friction plates (H) alternated with six plain plates (G). The clutch pack should be completed with a friction
-
plate.
Insert the clutch lifter (3) in the bearing (14) of the pressure plate (12).
Install the pressure plate (12) so that the mark on the end of one of the clutch spring posts is aligned with the marks
on the corresponding pressure plate hole, indicated by the triangle.

Fit a spring (1) and collar (2) into each recess and fit the retaining screws (4) after lubricating their threads with
engine oil.
Tighten the screws (4) gradually in a crosswise pattern and then tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine
torque settings).
Locate the gasket (21) and the clutch cover (22) and then tighten the bolts (24) and (23) to the specified torque



Clutch assembly: right-hand side crankcase cover
6.2 - Clutch assembly: right-hand side crankcase cover
1 Locating dowel
2 O-ring
3 Plug
4 Oil level plug
5 Bolt
6 Ring
7 O-ring
8 Seal
9 Switch
10 Bush
11 Oil seal
12 Shim
13 Circlip
14 Right-hand side crankcase cover
15 Bolt
16 Plug
17 Seal
18 Grub screw

19 Bolt
1098 CLUTCH COVER

1098 CLUTCH COVER
1098S CLUTCH COVER
1098S CLUTCH COVER
Important
Removal of the right-hand side crankcase cover

Drain the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
Remove the clutch centre N 6.1, Removal of the clutch
Notes
Undo and remove the six short bolts (5) and the long retaining bolts (15) and (19) from the crankcase cover (14).
Tap around the edge of the cover with a plastic mallet to detach it from the crankcase half.
Remove the right-hand side crankcase cover from the crankcase, taking care to recover the locating dowel (1).
Important
The right-hand crankcase cover (14) can be removed complete with the clutch drum and primary drive gear.
Remove the O-ring (2) located next to the crankcase oil way.

Disassembly of the right-hand side crankcase cover

Remove the plug (3) and the O-ring (7), the engine oil pressure sensor (9) and the seal (8), the plug (16) and the
seal (17) from the crankcase cover.
Remove the circlip (13) and withdraw the shim (12) and the oil seal (11).
The drilled bush (10) is mounted to the cover by a forced interference fit. Remove it using a suitable puller.
Inspect the oil seal (11) and renew it if necessary.

To check the condition of the oil seal (6) installed in the crankcase cover between the clutch drum and the primary
drive gear, first remove the latter two components (Sect. N 6.1, Removal of the clutch).
Reassembly of the right-hand crankcase cover

If the bush has been renewed, seat the new bush (10) in the crankcase cover using a suitable drift or a press.
If the oil seal (11) needs to be renewed, fit the new seal into the crankcase cover, positioning it so the side without a
spring is facing the circlip (13).
Before fitting, check that the edges of the circlip groove show no sign of burrs which might otherwise damage the oil
seal.
Then fit the shim (12) and the circlip (13).
Important
In order for the oil seal (11) to function correctly, it must have an assembly clearance that allows the circlip (13) to
rotate.

If it has been removed, install the new oil seal (6) in the crankcase cover, with the spring side facing inwards (see
figure), and lubricate the seal lips with engine oil.
Fit the plug (3) and the seal (7). Fit the sensor (9) and the seal (8). Fit the plug (16) and the seal (17).

Refitting the right-hand side crankcase cover

Clean and degrease mating surfaces on the clutch cover and crankcase and ensure that locating bush (1) and the O-
ring (2), located in correspondence with the oil way, are installed in the crankcase.
Apply a uniform continuous bead of DUCATI liquid gasket onto crankcase mating surfaces, working around all the
holes.
Lubricate the oil seal (6) with engine oil and fit the bush 88700.5665 onto the primary drive gear so as not to
damage the seal while fitting the cover.
Fit the cover assembly (14) to the crankcase and insert the retaining screws.

Tighten the bolts (5), (15) and (19) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings) following the
numbered sequence:
Retaining bolts
See Type Qty.
5 M6x25 hex socket bolts 6

Refit the clutch drum, clutch centre N 6.1, Reassembly of the clutch
and the clutch plate pack
Top up the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge

Clutch assembly: primary drive gears
6.3 - Clutch assembly: primary drive gears
1 O-ring
2 Oil seal
3 Primary drive gears
4 Bearing
5 Circlip
6 Bearing
7 Spacer
8 Spacer
9 Spacer
10 Lock washer
11 Nut
12 Circlip
1098 CLUTCH
1098 CLUTCH COVER

1098 CRANKSHAFT
1098S CLUTCH
1098S CLUTCH COVER
1098S CRANKSHAFT
Important
Removal of the primary drive gears

Remove the clutch drum, the clutch N 6.1, Removal of the clutch
centre and the clutch plate pack
crankcase cover side crankcase cover
Notes
Withdraw from the input shaft the spacer (8) and the O-ring (1) seated against the bearing (6) of the driven gear (C)
of the primary drive (3).
Remove the driven gear (C) of the primary drive (3) complete with the bearings and oil seal.
To renew the inner parts of the gear, use a suitable drift (A) and a support (B).

After removing the oil seal (2), tap from the inside towards the exterior using part of the inner race of bearing (4) to
be removed, after moving aside spacer (5) located between the two bearings.
Tap on different points to remove the components squarely.
Use the same technique to remove the bearing (6).
Important
Once disturbed, the oil seal (2), circlip (12) and the spacer (5) must be renewed. The latter two components must
always be renewed as a pair.
Remove the spacer (7) from the gearbox input shaft.

Remove the oil pump (Sect. N 2.1, Removal of the oil pump) in order to be able to disengage the driving gear (D).
Straighten out the lock washer (10) on the nut (11) securing the driving gear (D) of the primary drive pair.
Install the tool 88713.2102 on the gear (D) and hold it against rotation by inserting a pin in one of the engine
mounting bolt holes.

Loosen the retaining nut (11) of the driving gear (D) using a socket wrench of suitable length.
Remove the nut (11) and the lock washer (10).
Remove the driving gear (D) of the primary drive and the spacer (9) from the crankshaft.
Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash

Carefully degrease the splined end of the crankshaft and the corresponding internal splines of the primary gear.
Fit the inner spacer (9) to the shaft with its flat side facing outwards.

Fit gear (D) onto the crankshaft with oil pump drive sprocket facing the crankcase.
Temporarily secure the gear with washer (10) and nut (11).
If fitting a new primary drive gear pair (3), check the backlash.
Temporarily fit the gear (C) complete with the bearings and the oil seal onto the gearbox input shaft and fix a dial
gauge on the crankcase; position the dial gauge stylus on a gear tooth.
Turn the driven gear (D) to mesh the teeth and check with the dial tool that backlash ranges between 0.05 and
0.07 mm.
Measure the backlash at 16 diametrically opposed points of the gear.

If the measured values are outside the permissible tolerance, change the position of the driven gear (C) on the input
shaft leaving crankcase gear (D) untouched. If still outside tolerance values, renew the primary drive gear pair.
When this test is complete, finally tighten the previously installed nut (11).
Install the tool 88713.2102 on the gear (D) and hold it against rotation by inserting a pin in one of the engine
mounting bolt holes.
Tighten the nut to the specified torque with a torque wrench (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings), turning clockwise.
Stake the washer (10) on the gear (D) in correspondence with the milled location and on the nut (11) in a diagonally
opposed position.
Refit the oil pump and check the meshing play between the oil pump gear and primary drive gear on the crankshaft
(Sect. N 2.1, Refitting the oil pump).

crankcase cover
Refit the clutch drum, clutch centre N 6.1, Reassembly of the clutch
and the clutch plate pack

Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism
7.1 - Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism
1 Return spring
2 Washer
3 Special screw
4 Gear pawl assembly
5 Interlock plunger holder
6 Seal
7 Detent ball spring
8 Ball
9 Circlip
10 Selector claw return spring
11 Shim, thk. 0.5 mm
13 Ring
14 Nut
15 Selector drum control fork
16 Gearchange lever pin
17 Shaft with gearchange lever arm
18 Gearchange lever arm return spring

19 Bolt
20 Washer
21 Bolt
22 Washer
23 Locating ring
24 Stop plate
27 Gearchange mechanism
1098 GEARCHANGE
1098S GEARCHANGE
Important
Removal of the gearchange mechanism

Remove the left-hand side crankcase N 8, Removal of the left-hand side
cover and flywheel/alternator crankcase cover
assembly
crankcase cover complete with clutch side crankcase cover
drum and primary drive gear
Undo and remove the bolts (18) and (20) securing the gearchange mechanism (25).
Remove the gearchange mechanism complete with the shaft, spring, and stop plate.

Important
Visually inspect the gear selector claw (14) for wear, particularly around the area where it contacts the selector drum.
If it proves necessary to change components, disassemble the gear selector lever as shown in the exploded view.
Reassemble the gearchange mechanism, orienting the eccentric pin (15) in such a way that the lever arm (16) is
positioned centrally with respect to the shoulders of the stop plate (23).
Now tighten the nut (13) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Disassembly of gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly

Unscrew the interlock plunger screw (5) and remove the seal (6), spring (7) and the detent ball (8).
Unscrew the RH crankcase half bolt (3) and remove the pawl (4), washer (2) and spring (1).

Refitting the gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly

Fit the pawl (4), washer (2) and spring (1) on the retaining bolt (3).
Fit the assembled unit on the right-hand crankcase half, locating the end of spring (1) behind the crankcase rib.
Grease and then fit the ball (8), spring (7), and seal (6) to the gear interlock plunger (5).
Tighten the gear interlock plunger to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Refitting the gearchange mechanism

Locate the gearchange mechanism (25) with the shaft, spring, and stop plate, on the chain-side crankcase half.
Locate the gearbox drum selector claw in the centre of the drum rollers.
Temporarily fit the gearchange lever (or a service lever) and the engine sprocket, and shift to second gear.
Fit the plate 88713.2827 in the claw shaft pins (see figure).
Align the notch that marks the centreline of the selector claw, with the end of the plate.
Then tighten the gearchange mechanism retaining screws (18) and (20) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine
torque settings).
With the gearbox in neutral, check that the lever travel is the same when shifting up and down. The same should
apply when a gear is engaged.
Operate the gearchange lever and turn the sprocket at the same time to check that all the gears engage when
shifting up and down.
Remove the previously installed lever and sprocket


Fit the right-hand side crankcase N 6.2, Refitting the right-hand side
cover crankcase cover
Refit the flywheel/alternator N 8, Refitting the flywheel/alternator
assembly and left-hand side assembly
crankcase cover

Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts
7.2 - Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts
1 Shim, thk. 1 mm
2 Gearbox input shaft
3 Shim, thk. 0.5 mm
4 Needle roller bearing
5 5th speed driving gear
6 Splined washer, thk. 0.5
7 Circlip
8 3rd- 4th speed driving gear
9 6th speed driving gear
10 2nd speed driving gear
12 Splined washer, thk. 0.5
13 Roller bearing
14 Oil seal
15 Shim
16 Selector drum assembly

18 1st speed driven gear

19 Shim, thk. 1 mm
20 5th speed driven gear
22 3rd speed driven gear
24 2nd speed driven gear
25 Gearbox output shaft
26 Shim
27 Shim, thk. 1 mm
28 1st, 4th- 2nd, 3rd speed selector fork
29 5th, 6th speed selector fork
30 Selector fork shaft
31 Shim, thk. 1 mm
32 Needle roller retaining circlip (square cross-section)
33 Special needle roller (square cross-section)
34 Selector drum
1098 GEARCHANGE
1098 GEAR-BOX
1098S GEARCHANGE
1098S GEAR-BOX
Important
Removal of the gearbox assembly

Separate the crankcase halves N 9.2, Separation of the crankcase
halves
Withdraw the selector fork shafts (30).

Move the forks (28) and (29) to disengage them from the slots in the selector drum (34).

Withdraw the selector drum (16) taking care not to lose shims (31) and (27) mounted on the shaft. Note that the
positions of the shims must not be inverted.
Now you can renew the needle roller retaining ring (32) and the special needle rollers (33).
Remove gear selector forks (29) and (28).

Remove the gearbox input (2) and output (25) shafts complete with gears, taking care to recover the spacers on the
ends of the shafts.
If the bearing inner races (A) are left on the shafts, slide them off the ends of the gearbox input (2) and output (25)
shafts (Sect. N 9.2, Separation of the crankcase halves).

Disassembly of the gearbox shafts

Place the shaft in a vice in such a way as to facilitate the disassembly operations.
Important
Take care not to invert the positions of the shims on reassembly:
this would potentially lead to jamming when using the gear selector control, making it necessary to reopen the engine
crankcase.
Disassembly of the gearbox output shaft

Remove the chain-side clearance washer (15) and clutch-side clearance washer (26) from the output shaft.

Withdraw the first speed driven gear (18) with the roller cage (17) and the shim (19).
Remove the fifth speed driven gear (20).
Use two flat screwdrivers to remove the circlip (7) taking care not to damage the shaft surface.
Remove the circlip (7) and the splined washer (6).

Withdraw the fourth speed driven gear (21) with the roller cage (4) and splined washer (12).
Remove the third speed driven gear (22) with the roller cage (4) and the splined washer (6).

Remove the circlip (7) and remove the sixth speed driven gear (23).
Remove the circlip (7) and withdraw the splined washer (6) and the second speed driven gear (24).
Withdraw the roller cage (4) and the shim (3). All the components have thus been removed from gearbox output
shaft (25).
Disassembly of the gearbox input shaft

Remove the chain-side shim (11) and the clutch-side shim (1) from the input shaft.

Remove the second speed driving gear (10). Use two screwdrivers to prise out the circlip (7) and the splined washer
(6).
Important
Take care to avoid damaging the surface of the shaft while removing circlip (7).
Remove the sixth speed driving gear (9) with its roller cage (4). Remove the splined washer (6) and the circlip (7).
Withdraw the third and fourth speed driving gear (8).

Remove the circlip (7) and the splined washer (6).
Remove the fifth speed driving gear (5) with the roller cage (4).

Slide the shim (3) off the input shaft (2).
Overhaul of the gearbox

Check the condition of the front coupling dogs of the gears. They must be in perfect condition and with no sign of
wear on the edges of the teeth.
The idler gears must rotate freely on their shafts.
When refitting, make sure the circlips are correctly positioned.
Check the needle roller bearings for wear.
The threads and splines of the shafts must be in perfect condition.
At each overhaul, check the condition of the needle roller cage (13) and the oil seal (14) located on the end of the
gearbox input shaft: remove them if necessary using a suitable puller and renew them.
Also check that the component parts of the gear selector mechanism are in good condition.
Engage the gears and check that the gearchange mechanism does not stick (selector fork - gear groove, and fork pin
- desmodromic drum groove) due to incorrect end float. Restore the correct endfloat by shimming the gearbox shafts
and the selector drum with suitable shims.

For the total gearbox shaft and selector drum end float values, refer to Sect. C 1.1, Gearbox.
Inspection of the gear selector forks

Visually inspect the gear selector forks. Bent forks must be renewed as they may lead to difficulties in gear changing
or may suddenly disengage when under load.
Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance of each fork in its gear groove.
If the service limit has been exceeded, check whether or not it is necessary to renew the gear or the fork by referring
to the limits specified for each part (Sect. C 1.1, Gearbox).
Inspection of the gear selector drum

Use a gauge to measure the clearance between fork pin and the slot on the selector drum.
If the service limit is exceeded, determine which part must be renewed by comparing these dimensions with those of
new components (Sect. C 1.1, Gearbox).
Also check the wear on the drum support pins; these must not show any signs of scoring, burrs, or deformation.
Turn the drum in the crankcase to establish the extent of radial play. If play is excessive, change whichever part is

most worn.
Reassembly of the gearbox shafts

Figure 1 shows all the parts to be reassembled on the gearbox input shaft (2), with the calculated end shims (1) and
(11) (Sect. N 9.2, Reassembly of the crankcase halves).

Figure 2 shows all the parts to be reassembled on the gearbox output shaft (25), with calculated end shims (15) and
(26) (Sect. N 9.2, Reassembly of the crankcase halves).

Reassemble the gears on the gearbox shafts by reversing the disassembly procedure.
Take particular care when installing the idler gears. The assembly of the 3rd and 4th speed gears and the relative
fixing components on the output shaft is given as an example.
Fit the circlip (7), checking that it is fully inserted into its groove on the shaft. Push the circlip into position with a
suitable size tubular drift.
Slide the washer with three internal points (6) over the shaft until it locates against the circlip you have just fitted.
To fit the needle roller cage (4) onto the shaft, first lubricate it with plenty of grease (of recommended type) and then
open it slightly to make it easier to slide on to the shaft.
Fit the 3 th speed gear (22).

Fit the three-pointed washer (12), which can be distinguished from its counterpart (6) by its bigger outside diameter.
Fit another needle roller cage (4) using the method already described.
Fit the 4 th speed gear (21).

Fit another 3-pointed washer (6) and another circlip (7) onto the shaft. Seat the circlip using the drift used previously.
Reassembly of the gearbox

To reassemble gearbox components follow the procedure under Sect. N 9.2, Reassembly of the crankcase halves
relating to reassembly of the crankcase halves.
As a final practical test, ensure that with the gearbox in neutral the front coupling dogs (A) of sliding gears (B) are
equidistant on both sides with respect to the corresponding coupling dogs on the fixed gears (C).
Check also that there is always a small amount of clearance between fork (D) and relative groove (E) on sliding gear
(B) when engaging the gears.


Reassemble the engine crankcases N 9.2, Reassembly of the crankcase
halves

Flywheel-alternator
8 - Flywheel-alternator
1 Bolt
2 Cylinder coolant inlet union
3 Ignition inspection plug
4 Oil seal
5 O-ring
6 Cover
7 Bolt
8 Aluminium gasket
9 Cable guide
10 Washer
11 Bolt
12 Bolt
13 Bolt
14 Flange
15 Flanged nut
16 Belleville washer
17 Flywheel
18 Washer

Flywheel-alternator
19 Inner ring
21 Electric starter driven gear
22 Starter clutch
23 Flywheel-starter clutch assembly
24 Alternator rotor
25 Bolt
26 Bolt
27 Bearing
28 Circlip
29 Left-hand side crankcase cover
30 Locating dowel
31 Bracket
32 Bolt
33 Alternator stator
1098 WATER PUMP - ALTERNATOR COVER

1098 ELECTRIC STARTER AND IGNITION
1098S WATER PUMP - ALTERNATOR COVER
1098S ELECTRIC STARTER AND IGNITION
Important
Removal of the left-hand side crankcase cover

Remove the front sprocket cover G 8, Removal of the front sprocket
Drain the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
Remove the clutch pushrod F 2, Removal of the clutch slave
cylinder
Remove the pump-cylinder hoses N 5, Removal of the cylinder/piston
assembly
Remove the water pump-radiator N 3.3, Removal of the water pump
hose
Notes
This operation is described for an engine removed from the frame since all reassembly procedures are easier with the
engine on the bench.
Disconnect the alternator wiring connector from the main wiring loom (A).

Flywheel-alternator
Unscrew the two retaining bolts (7) of the centre cap (6) over the end of the crankshaft.
Unscrew the left-hand crankcase cover bolts (1), (11), (12) and (13).

Flywheel-alternator
Fix service tool 88713.1749 to the holes of the two bolts (7) you have just removed.
Turn the tool shaft slowly to remove the cover (29) from the LH crankcase half.
On the cover in correspondence with the gearchange shaft, there is an oil seal (4) that may be damaged when
removing the crankcase cover.
Always check the condition of this oil seal and renew it if damaged.
Disassembly of the left-hand crankcase cover

Undo the three stator retaining bolts (25) and the two cable guide bracket (31) retaining bolts (32) from inside the LH
crankcase cover.
Remove the stator (33) and the cable guide (31).
The left-hand side crankcase cover is fitted with a bearing (27), held in place by circlip (28), which locates on the end
of the crankshaft.
Remove the circlip (28) with circlip pliers.
Remove the bearing (27) using a universal puller.
Be careful when fitting the new bearing (27) to ensure it is positioned with the shielded side facing away from the

Flywheel-alternator
cover.
Secure the bearing with the circlip (28), ensuring that it is correctly fitted in its seat in the LH crankcase cover (29).
Unscrew the horizontal and vertical cylinder coolant inlet unions (2).
When fitting new components, apply the recommended threadlocker and tighten to the specified torque. (Sect. C 3,
Engine torque settings).
Important
The unions (2) may also be removed without removing the LH crankcase cover (29) from the engine.
Disassemble the components of the water pump (B) as described in (Sect. N 3.3, Removal of the water pump).
Removal of the flywheel/alternator assembly

Use service tool no. 88713.2874 fixed to the M10 side stand fixing holes (D).
Lock the tool to the flywheel with screw (E).
Unscrew the alternator/flywheel retaining nut (15).
Warning
While unscrewing the nut, apply axial pressure to the wrench socket to avoid damage or injury in the event of the
wrench suddenly slipping off the nut.

Flywheel-alternator
Remove the nut (15), the Belleville washer (16) and the flywheel assembly (23) with the driven gear (21) from the
crankshaft.
Remove the inner ring (19), the needle roller bearing (20) and the washer (18).
Important
Check the bush (19), the needle roller bearing (20) and the inner washer (18) for wear. Renew if worn.

Flywheel-alternator
Overhaul of the flywheel/alternator assembly

Check that the inner part of alternator rotor (24) shows no signs of damage.
Check that the starter clutch is working properly and that the needle races do not show signs of wear or damage of
any kind.
If there is any malfunction, remove the whole assembly.
Disassembly of the flywheel/alternator

Undo the eight bolts (26) and remove the rotor (24) from the flywheel.
Insert two of the bolts (26) just removed from the flywheel rotor-side in their holes in order to remove the flange
(14) and the starter clutch (22) from the flywheel (17).
The starter clutch is a slight interference fit on the flange. To remove it, use a suitable drift.

Flywheel-alternator
Reassembly of the flywheel-alternator assembly

Install the starter clutch (22) in the flange (14) to bring the edge (A) of the clutch up against the flange.
Important
Assemble the components (starter clutch and flange) so that the edge (A) of the starter clutch is positioned on side of
the flange with the bevelled edge (B).

Flywheel-alternator
Seat the flange (14) with the starter clutch (22) in the flywheel (17), aligning the flange locating hole (C) with the
flywheel locating hole (D).
Notes
The flange locating hole (C) is the hole with the countersunk lead-in (E).
Notes
The locating hole (D) of the flywheel can be either one of the two holes (F).
Notes
Use suitable tools to align the locating holes.

Flywheel-alternator

Flywheel-alternator
Important
Assemble the components (flange and flywheel) so that edge (A) of the starter clutch (22) is enclosed between the
flange and flywheel.
Install the rotor (24) on the flywheel (17), aligning the flywheel locating hole (D) with the rotor locating hole (G).
Notes
The flywheel locating hole (D) of the flywheel is the hole that was previously aligned with the flange locating hole (C),
i.e. the hole with the countersunk lead-in (E).
Notes
The rotor locating hole (G) is the hole positioned on the same diameter as the fixing holes (H).
Notes
Use suitable tools to align the locating holes.
Apply threadlocker to the rotor/flywheel fixing bolts (26) and start them in their threads.

Flywheel-alternator
Tighten the bolts (26) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings), in the indicated sequence.
Lubricate the surface (L) of the driven gear (21) with engine oil.

Flywheel-alternator
Install the driven gear in the starter clutch, ensuring it is properly seated.
Notes
To facilitate installation, rotate the driven gear in the direction of the green arrow.
Hold the flywheel (17) with one hand and check that the driven gear can rotate freely in the direction of the green
arrow but not in the direction of the red arrow.
If either of these two is not met, this means that the starter clutch has not been installed correctly.

Flywheel-alternator
Refitting the flywheel/alternator assembly

Install the roller cage assembly (20) with the washer (18) and inner ring (19).
Install the roller cage assembly (20) with the washer (18) and inner ring (19).
Install the flywheel assembly (23) with the gear (21), aligning the notches as shown in the photo.

Flywheel-alternator
Fit the Belleville washer (16) on the end of the crankshaft.
Warning
The Belleville washer is tapered: position it as shown in the photo.
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the thread on the end of the crankshaft and the nut (15).
Start the nut (15) on the crankshaft.
Hold the flywheel with the service tool 88713.2874 to prevent rotation, and tighten the nut (15) to the specified
Refitting the left-hand crankcase cover

Make sure that the following parts are installed in the LH crankcase cover (29) before refitting it:
crankshaft end bearing (27) with its circlip;
the alternator stator (33) with the cable clamp (31).
Install the water pump (Sect. N 3.3, Refitting the water pump).

Flywheel-alternator
Remove any scale and grease from the mating surfaces of the left-hand crankcase half and the cover.
Fit the two locating dowels (30).
Spread a continuous uniform bead of DUCATI liquid gasket on the cover mating surface, ensuring continuity around
the holes for the retaining screws and bushes.
Grease the end of the crankshaft and the gearchange shaft to facilitate installation of the cover and to prevent the oil
seal (4) from being damaged, if already installed in the cover.
While positioning the cover on the crankcase, slightly turn the timing belt drive shaft pulleys to facilitate insertion of
the pump control shaft.
Tap the cover at different positions with a rubber mallet to facilitate its location on the shafts and locating dowels.
Notes
Should it be necessary to remove the cover again, fit the puller 88713.1749 to the threaded holes located in
correspondence with the crankshaft.
Insert the retaining bolts in their holes following the indications given in the table.

Flywheel-alternator
Ref. Qty. Description

11 8 M6x25 mm screws
1 1 M6x25 mm drive-lock bolt
Under the bolt (11), located in correspondence with the starter motor, fit the washer (10) and hose/wiring clip (9).
Tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Dampen the seal (4) with alcohol and install it in the LH crankcase cover, in correspondence with the gearchange
shaft.
Apply threadlocker to the bolts (7).

Tighten the two retaining bolts (7) of the centre cap (6) over the end of the crankshaft to the specified torque
(Sect C 3, Engine torque settings).

Flywheel-alternator
Reconnect the alternator wiring to the main wiring loom (A).

Refit the water pump-radiator hose N 3.3, Refitting the water pump
Refit the pump-cylinder hoses N 5, Refitting the cylinder/piston
assembly
Fit the clutch pushrod F 2, Refitting the clutch slave cylinder
Refit the sprocket cover G 8, Refitting the front sprocket
Top up the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge

Crankcase assembly: external components
9.1 - Crankcase assembly: external components
1 Oil breather valve

2 O-ring
3 Seal
4 Neutral switch
5 Cylinder barrel/head stud
6 Nipple
7 By-pass spring
8 Nipple
9 Plug
10 Aluminium gasket
11 Nut
12 Lock washer
13 Timing gear pair
14 Key
15 Key
16 Bolt
17 Bolt
18 Washer

19 Starter idler gear

20 Washer
21 Gear shaft
22 O-ring
23 Engine sensor
24 Shim
25 Bolt
26 Washer
27 Aluminium gasket
28 Circlip
29 Bolt
30 Washer
31 Starter idler gear
32 Washer
33 Gear shaft
1098 GEARCHANGE
1098 TIMING
1098 ELECTRIC STARTER AND IGNITION
1098S GEARCHANGE
1098S TIMING
1098s HALF CRANKCASES
1098s HALF CRANKCASES
1098S ELECTRIC STARTER AND IGNITION
Important
Removal of external components

Remove the lubrication system N 2.1, Removal of the oil pump
Remove the oil filter cartridge D 4, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
Remove the cylinder head assemblies N 4.2, Removal of the timing belt
and the timing parts covers
Remove the cylinder barrel/piston N 5, Removal of the cylinder/piston
assemblies assembly
Unscrew the bolt (17) and remove the oil breather valve (1) with the O-rings (2). Check the condition of O-rings (2)
and renew them if necessary.

Unscrew and remove the oil inlet and outlet nipples (8) from the right-hand crankcase half and recover the seals (27).
Unscrew and remove the oil filter support nipple (6) and remove also by-pass spring (7).

Remove the mesh filter (A) with its seal from the right-hand crankcase half (Sect. D 4, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge).
Remove the drain plug (10) with its seal (9).
Remove the neutral switch (4) with seal (3).
Remove the cylinder head studs (5) with the aid of the appropriate tool.

To remove the engine sensor (23), unscrew the bolt (25) and recover the shim (24) and the washer (26).
Check the condition of O-rings (22) and renew them if necessary.
If the engine sensor is to be renewed, it will be necessary to check the air gap as indicated in the paragraph
“Checking the engine sensor air gap”.

Refitting the external components

Grease the engine sensor (23) in the part indicated.
Fit the engine sensor (23) in its seat in the crankcase.
Position the 0.6 mm thick shim (24).

Insert the bolt (25) with the washer (26) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the engine sensor (23) and the timing gear (13). The value must
be between 0.6 and 0.8 mm.
Notes
If the gap is incorrect, loosen the screw (25) of the engine sensor and replace the shim (24) with one of suitable
thickness (paragraph “Checking the engine sensor air gap”).

Install the oil vapour breather valve (1) in the crankcase along with O-ring (2).
Tighten the two oil hose connection nipples (8) with the seals (27) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque
settings).
Locate the by-pass spring (7) and screw on the nipple (6) that supports the oil filter cartridge, tightening to the
specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Tighten drain plug (10) and seal (9) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings) applying the specified
threadlocker.
Refit the neutral switch (4) with seal (3).
Refit the mesh filter (A) with seal as described in (Sect. D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).

Now fit the studs (5) on the crankcase halves, applying thread locker and tightening to the specified torque value
(Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings). Use the appropriate commercial tool for this operation.

Refit the cylinder barrel/piston N 5, Refitting the cylinder/piston
assemblies assembly
Refit the cylinder head assemblies N 4.2, Refitting the timing belt
and the timing parts driveshaft rollers
Refit the oil filter cartridge D 4, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
Refit the lubrication system N 2.1, Refitting the oil pump
Removal of the timing gears

Remove the left-hand crankcase N 8, Removal of the left-hand side
cover and alternator assembly crankcase cover
Slide out driving gear (A) of timing gear pair (13) and remove the Woodruff key (14).

Relieve the staking on the lock washer (12) of the nut (11).
Restrain the driven timing gear by inserting a pin (C) in one of the holes, and unscrew the nut (11).
Remove the nut (11), washer (12), driven timing gear (B) and Woodruff key (15) from the timing belt driveshaft
shaft.

Refitting the timing gears

Before refitting, check the wear on the timing gear pair (13) and renew if necessary.
Important
The timing gears (13) must always be renewed as a pair.
Warning
When installing the driven gear (B), align the timing mark with that on the driving gear (A).
Important
On completion of the refitting operations, check that tab washer (12) is staked against nut (11) in such a way as to
prevent the nut from working loose.


Refit the left-hand crankcase cover N 8, Refitting the flywheel/alternator
and alternator assembly assembly
Removal of the starter motor idler gear

Unscrew the bolt (29) and remove the idler gear (31) with the washers (30) and (32) and the shaft (33).
For models with starter idler gear (19), remove the circlip (28) and the washer (18). Remove the gear (19) and the

washer (20). Unscrew the bolt (16) and remove the shaft (21).
It is now possible to remove the starter motor (Sect. P 3, Starter motor).
Refitting the starter motor idler gear

For models with starter idler gear (19), apply the recommended threadlocker to the bolt (16) and fix the shaft (21) by
tightening the bolt (16) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings). Locate the gear (19) and the
washer (20). Locate the washer (18) and the circlip (28).
Refit the idler gear assembly (31), bolt (29), washers (30) and (32) and shaft (33) as indicated.

Notes
Apply the prescribed threadlocker to the bolt (29) and tighten to the specified torque.

Checking the engine sensor air gap

If either the alternator or the engine sensor has been renewed, the sensor air gap must be checked as described
below.

Remove the plug (B) from the inspection hole in the left-hand crankcase cover.

Insert a feeler gauge (A) through the hole, positioning it between the end of sensor (23) and the teeth of timing belt
driveshaft gear.
Check that gap is 0.6 to 0.8 mm.
If not, slacken off the screw (25) securing the sensor (23) so as to extract the shim (24) and replace it with one of
suitable thickness.
Notes
There are three different shims available, and these can be identified by their colours, as shown in the figure.
Tighten the screw (25) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Refit the plug (B) with its seal and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).


Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves
9.2 - Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves
1 Bearing
2 Bearing shell
3 Crankcase half - front
4 Bearing
5 Circlip
6 Washer
7 Bearing
8 Oil seal
9 Bearing
10 Retaining plate
11 Bolt
12 Bolt (M8x90)
13 Right-hand side crankcase half
14 Oil seal
15 Bearing
16 Circlip
17 Bearing shell
18 Bearing

19 Bearing
20 Bolt
21 Spacer
22 Bush
23 Bearing
24 Bolt (M6x35)
25 Bolt (M8x75)
26 Bolt (M8x75, drilled)
27 Bolt (M6x75)
28 Bolt (M8x90)
29 Circlip
30 Timing belt driveshaft
31 O-ring
32 O-ring
33 Hose
34 Bolt
1098 TIMING
1098S TIMING
Important
Separation of the crankcase halves

Remove the cooling system N 3.2, Removal of the radiator
assemblies assembly
Remove the engine starting system P 3, Starter motor
Remove the right-hand crankcase N 6.2, Removal of the right-hand
cover side crankcase cover
Remove the clutch assembly N 6.1, Removal of the clutch
Remove the gauze pickup filter D 4, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
Use two screwdrivers to remove the circlip (29) from the timing belt driveshaft shaft (30) on the right-hand crankcase
half.

Notes
Take care to avoid scoring the surface of the shaft while removing the circlip.
Unscrew the crankcase bolts working from the chain side.
Unscrew the two bolts (12) and (25) on the right-hand side near the vertical cylinder.

Re-use the left-hand crankcase cover or a service cover with puller 88713.1749. Secure it to the crankcase half
using some of the original bolts and begin separating the crankcase halves by turning the central pin of the tool.
Tap the end of the gearbox output shaft with a plastic mallet to separate the crankcase halves.
Notes
Take care not to lose the shims on the shafts and on the selector drum.
Remove the gearbox shafts and gear selector drum from the crankcase halves as described in Sect. N 7.2, Removal of
the gearbox assembly.
Drive out the crankshaft (L) using a plastic mallet, taking care not to lose the shims.
Remove the timing belt driveshaft (30).

Remove the bolts (34), remove the hoses (33) and recover the O-rings (32).
Overhaul of the crankcase halves

Carefully examine the engine crankcase halves.
Check that the surfaces of the crankcases are perfectly flat using a reference surface.
Check that bearings (1) and (18) and bushes (2) and (17) are in perfect condition. Note that the main bearings must
always be changed in pairs (refer to the procedure below in “Main bearings”).

Notes
When overhauling an engine it is good practice to renew all the crankcase bearings.
After having renewed the gearbox shaft bearings (28) and (9), secure them in the crankcase with the spacers (21)
and the retaining plate (10).
At each overhaul it is recommended to renew also the oil seal (8) on the outside of bearing (9).

Renew the bearings (7) and (23) on the ends of the gearbox shafts and timing belt driveshaft bearings (4) and (15).
Take care not to lose the shim (6) interposed between the bearing (7) on the end of the gearbox input shaft and the
chain side crankcase half.

The oil seal (14) on the external side of the roller bearing (15) must be renewed at each engine overhaul.
Check that the oilways are free of restrictions or clogging.

Check the condition of locating dowels (22). In the event of signs of distortion or excessive assembly clearance with
the corresponding seats, remove the locating dowels using appropriate tools.
If it proves difficult to remove the dowels (22) from the crankcase, use a tap with a left-hand thread to force them
out.
Important
The dowels (22) must always be renewed when they have been removed using the above procedure.
Remove the bearing (23), the circlip (5) and the roller bearing (4).

Main bearings
The main bearings have are of the angular contact type with offset inner races so that the balls transmit loads from
one groove to the other along straight lines at an angle to the axis of the bearing. Angular contact thrust bearings are
designed to withstand combined loads (radial and axial loads).
Bearings of this type can bear thrust loads in one direction only. In fact, under the action of a radial load inside the
bearing, an axial force is created that must be counterbalanced by an axial force acting in the opposite direction; that
is why these bearings are generally fitted back to back in pairs.
To renew the bearings proceed as follows:
- heat the crankcase half in an oven to 100 °C;
- remove the bearing using a drift and hammer;
install the new bearing (while the crankcase is still hot) keeping it perfectly square in its seat using a tubular drift
-
that only bears on the outer ring of the bearing;
- allow the parts to cool and check that the bearing is securely seated in the crankcase.

Important
On worn engines, the bearing holder may no longer be a tight fit in the crankcase half.
After having removed the bearing holder, check that the interference fit between the crankcase and the holder with
the bearing installed is no less than 0.03 mm, otherwise the crankcase halves must be renewed.
Notes
For shimming the main bearings, see the chapter at the end of this section.
Reassembly of the crankcase halves

The crankcase halves must be in good condition and perfectly clean. The mating surfaces must be perfectly flat and
free from burrs.
Overhauling the right-hand side crankcase half

The following parts must be present on the internal side of the crankcase half:
the output shaft end bearing (23);
the input shaft bearing (28), secured with bolts (20) and retaining spacer (21);
the main bearing (18) complete with bush (17);

the roller bearing (15) with retaining circlip (16) installed in correspondence with the end of the timing belt driveshaft.
Refitting the left-hand side crankcase half

The following parts must be present on the internal side of the crankcase half:
the double cage ball bearing (9) supporting the fork control shaft with stop plate (10) and retaining bolts (11);

the gearbox input shaft end bearing (7) with the inner spacer (6);
the main bearing (1) complete with bush (2);
the bearing (4) with the retaining circlip (5) installed in correspondence with the timing belt driveshaft.

Notes
None of the bearings except the main bearings have an obligatory assembly direction.
Refit the gauze pickup filter as described in Sect. D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge.
Important
To avoid damaging the filter, insert it by hand only. Do not use hammers or other metal tools.
Above the gauze filter seat there is a plug (19) which closes off the lubrication oilway. If it is to be renewed, apply the
prescribed threadlocker to its threads.
Tighten the bolts and the plug to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Shimming the shafts

Before assembling the crankcase halves, calculate the shims required to obtain the correct end float of the crankshaft

and gearbox shafts.

To determine the correct shim thicknesses proceed as follows.
Shimming the crankshaft

After fitting the new main bearings, proceed as follows to determine the total shim thickness “SA”:
measure the distance “LA” between the bearing contact surfaces on the crankshaft;
measure the depths “LA1” and “LA2” corresponding to the distance between contact surface of the crankcase half and
the contact surface of the inner race of the bearings.
Add a pre-load of 0.30 mm to prevent excessive crankshaft end float when the crankcase halves are at their normal
operating temperature.
This gives:
SA=LA1+LA2+0.30-LA.
To calculate the each single shim thickness note that:
SA=SA1+SA2
where “SA1” and “SA2” represent the shims for the right-hand crankcase half 1 and the left-hand crankcase half 2.
Considering the alignment of the shaft, this gives:
SA1=LA1+0.15-LA/2;
and finally, the second shim thickness: SA2=SA-SA1.

In addition to the above description, the following text illustrates a practical shimming procedure, providing a guide
on how to calculate the crankshaft shim thicknesses accurately.
Install a shim of minimum thickness (1.90 mm) on each side of the crankshaft to prevent contact between the
crankshaft web and the engine block.
Install the crankshaft and assemble the two crankcase halves.
Fit four M8 screws into the holes shown in the figure and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque
settings).
Place a dial gauge (A) with a magnetic base on a support plate fixed to the crankcase.
Bring the stylus into contact with the end of the crankshaft and set the dial gauge to zero in this position.

Insert a lever (B) between the crankcase and the crank web and force the crankshaft towards the dial gauge.
Note the dial gauge reading. This is the crankshaft endfloat. Add a preload of (0.30 mm) plus the thickness of the
shims used (1.90x2=3.8 mm).
Divide the resulting value by two to obtain the thickness of the shim packs to be installed at either end of the
crankshaft.
Notes
After assembling the crankcase, the crankshaft should turn with some interference in the new bearings.
Shimming the gearbox shafts

To establish the total shim thicknesses to be installed on the input shaft “SP” and the output shaft “SS”, proceed as
follows:
Measure the dimensions “LP” and “LS” on the input and output shafts (for the output shaft add shim thickness “R” of
2.3 mm;
Measure the depth corresponding to the distance between the contact surface of the crankcase half and the contact
surface of the inner race of the bearing for the input shaft (“CP1” and “CP2”) and for the output shaft (“CS1” and
“CS2”);
Given that end float should be in the range 0 to 0.15 mm, we will take the optimal value of 0.15 mm, which gives:
SP=CP1+CP2-LP-0.15 and SS=CS1+CS2-LS-0.15.
To determine the thickness of each single shim pack, note that:
SP=SP1+SP2 and
SS=SS1+SS2
Where “SP1” and “SP2” are the clutch and chain side input shaft shimming values respectively and “SS1” and “SS2”
the corresponding values for the output shaft. This gives:
SP1=CP1-64-0.075 and
SS1=CS1-64-0.075, so that
SP2=SP-SP1 and SS2=SS-SS1.

Notes
The method described for the crankshaft can also be used to calculate the shim thicknesses for the gear shafts.
Shimming the gearbox selector drum

A similar procedure is used to establish the total shimming thickness “ST” for the gearbox drum.
Given that:
LT1 = right-hand side crankcase depth
LT2 = left-hand side crankcase depth
LT = gearbox selector drum shoulder.
Given that end float should be 0 10 to 0.40 mm.

And taking the mean optimal value of 0.25 mm.
This gives: ST=LT1+LT2-LT-0.25.
Given that ST=ST1+ST2.
We obtain ST1=LT1-59-0.125, so that ST2=ST-ST1.
Notes
The method described for the crankshaft can also be used to calculate the shim thicknesses for the gear shafts.

Reassembly of the crankcase halves

Apply the recommended threadlocker to the bolts (34) and secure the hoses (33) with the O-rings (32), tightening
the bolts (34) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Install the timing belt driveshaft (30) in the roller bearing (4) in the right-hand crankcase half.
To avoid damaging the oil seal (14) on the timing belt driveshaft, protect the threaded end of the shaft with the
special protective cap 88700.5749. Moisten the oil seal (14) with alcohol and fit it on the timing belt driveshaft,
seating it against the roller bearing (4).
Fit the circlip (29) in the groove on the shaft and remove the protective cap.

Notes
When refitting used components, make sure that the inner races (C) of the gearbox shaft bearings are fitted into the
correct bearings and have not been left on the shafts.
Mesh the gearbox shafts and install them on the right-hand crankcase half with the calculated shims.
Notes
A figure and a list of the component parts of the gearbox appear in Sect. N 7.2, Reassembly of the gearbox shafts.
Insert the 1st-4th and 2nd-3rd speed selector forks (D) in their respective channels in the driven gears of the output
shaft.

Notes
The two selector forks are identical.
Insert the 5th-6th speed selector fork (E) in the driven gear of the input shaft.
Install the selector drum (F) in the crankcase with calculated shim thickness.
Fit the pins (G) in the previously installed selector forks.

Fit the shimmed crankshaft into the right-hand crankcase half, positioning the connecting rods (H) in correspondence
with the relative cylinder barrel seats.
Important
Make sure that the connecting rods (H) are correctly positioned in the respective cylinder seats. Incorrect positioning
of the connecting rods at this stage will inevitably lead to the need to re-open the crankcase.
Check that the two locating dowels (22) are correctly installed.
Grease the O-ring (31) to hold it in position and install it.

Apply a uniform and continuous bead of DUCATI liquid gasket to the mating surfaces of the crankcase halves, going
around all the holes as shown in the figure.
Bring the crankcase halves (3) and (13) together, tapping with a rubber mallet in the area of the shafts if necessary.
Apply the recommended grease to the bolts and insert them in their holes (note that the bolts are different lengths).
Start with the larger diameter bolts (M8), and in particular, the left-hand side bolt (25) and follow the order indicated.
Ref. Qty. Description

26 1 M8x75 mm bolts
Tighten all screws to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Ensure that the crankshaft can be turned with a certain amount of interference with the main bearings (the
crankshaft should have a pre-load of 0.2 to 0.30 mm); check also that all the parts you have fitted are free to rotate
or move correctly.
Install the gauze filter cover with its gasket (Sect. D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Fit the filter cartridge (Sect. D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Install the oil seal (8) on the gearbox output shaft.

Install the bush of service tool no. 88713.2060 on the output shaft. Lubricate the new oil seal (8) and seat it.
Using the tool's drift, drive the oil seal fully home so it seats against the crankcase bearing.

Refit the clutch assembly N 6.1, Reassembly of the clutch
crankcase cover
Refit the engine starter system P 3, Starter motor
assemblies assembly
Refit the cooling system N 3.2, Refitting the radiator
Install the engine in the frame N 1, Refitting the engine

Crankcase assembly: connecting rods
9.3 - Crankcase assembly: connecting rods
1 Special screw
2 Connecting rod assembly
3 Half bearing
4 Grub screw
5 Key
6 Crankshaft
7 Grub screw
8 Shim
9 Bushes
1098 CRANKSHAFT
1098S CRANKSHAFT
Important

Removal of the connecting rods assembly

Remove the cooling system N 3.2, Removal of the radiator
assemblies assembly
Remove the engine starting system P 3, Starter motor
Remove the right-hand crankcase N 6.2, Removal of the right-hand
cover side crankcase cover
Remove the clutch assembly N 6.1, Removal of the clutch
Separate the crankcase halves N 9.2, Separation of the crankcase
halves
After separating the crankcase halves, withdraw the crankshaft (7) complete with connecting rods (2).
Disassembly of the connecting rods

To disassemble the connecting rod, undo the bolts (1) and separate the connecting rod from the crankshaft.
Important
Take care not to mix up components of different connecting rods and maintain the original orientation.

Overhaul of the connecting rods

Make the following dimensional checks on the connecting rods:
- clearance with gudgeon pin on assembly.
In the event of excessive wear (Sect. C 1.1, Crankshaft), renew the connecting rod.
The small end bushing must be in good condition and firmly driven into its seat.
Check for parallelism error measured at 100 mm from the connecting rod longitudinal axis:
the value must be H - h less than 0.02 mm; otherwise, renew the connecting rod.
The connecting rod is supplied in two size classes A and B relative to the big end diameter (Sect. C 1.1, Crankshaft)
as punch marked on the side of the cap.
It is preferable to use crankshaft and connecting rods of the same size class.

Renewal of the small end bushing

To remove the worn bushing, use a suitable drift and a press.
Drill lubrication holes into the new bushing in correspondence with the existing lubrication holes on the connecting rod
small end.
Now ream out the bushing until the inside diameter (D) is 20.035 to 20.045 mm.
Connecting rod bearings

It is good practice to renew the bearings (3) each time the engine is overhauled.
Replacement bearings are supplied ready for assembly and they must not be reworked with scrapers or emery cloth.
The bearings may belong to two different size classes, each identified by a specific colour (YELLOW and BLUE).
The bearings are composed of an external steel ring, the inner face of which is electro-plated with a lead-based
compound.
The table shows the appropriate bearings to be fitted according to the size class of the crankshaft and connecting rod.
Crankshaft class Connecting rod class Bearings colour

B B BLUE/YELLOW
B A YELLOW/YELLOW
A B BLUE/BLUE
A A BLUE/YELLOW

Crankshaft
The main bearing and big-end journals should not be scored or grooved;
the threads, keyways, and slots must be in good condition.
Check for fretting or burrs in the fillet between journal and shoulder.
Fillet radius: 2 mm.
With the aid of a micrometer, measure the ovality and taper of the big-end journals, taking the measurements in
various different directions.
Use a dial gauge to measure the alignment of the main journals by setting the crankshaft between two opposing
centres.
At each overhaul it is strongly recommended to clean the crankshaft's internal oilways.
The prescribed values are given in Sect. C 1.1, Crankshaft.
The crankshaft is supplied in two size classes (journals) A and B, as punch marked on the side of the crank web on
the pinion side.

Unscrew all the plugs (4) and (7) from the crankshaft, heating the crankshaft, if necessary, to release the
threadlocker applied at the time of assembly.
Clean all the oilways using suitable diameter metal brushes and then blow with compressed air to remove any
residues that have accumulated and are restricting the oil flow.
Apply THREE BOND 1375B liquid gasket to the plug threads (4) and (7) and reinstall them.
Tighten all the plugs to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Big-end bearing shell-journal clearance

To check the assembly clearance between the bearing shells and crankshaft journals you will lay a strip (A) of GREEN
“Plastigage PG-1” on the journal. Fit the connecting rod with the original bearings and tighten the screws to a torque
of 50 Nm.
Remove the connecting rod and compare the width of the Plastigage strip to the scale (B).
If the width measured corresponding to the existing clearance is not within the prescribed limit (Sect. C 1.1,
Crankshaft), either the bearings or the crankshaft must be renewed.

Reassembly of the connecting rods

Before starting the work, check that the crankshaft main bearing journals and big-end journals are free of burrs or
evident signs of machining: if necessary, clean the surfaces with very fine emery cloth and oil.
Check that the grooves are in perfect condition with no signs of forcing.
Check that each connecting rod (2) and cap are fitted with their locating pins (D).
Wash the pins and dry them with compressed air.
Clean and lubricate the journals and con-rod bearing shells (3) with engine oil and fit the connecting rods in their
original mounting positions.
Use the recommended grease to lubricate the threads and underside of the heads of the new bolts (1) and the
threaded hole in the connecting rod, packing in grease from both sides of the hole.
Warning
The grease utilised is an irritant in contact with the skin. Wear protective gloves.
Important
Lubrication of connecting rod cap bolts is essential to obtain the correct coupling and to prevent breakage of the parts.
Use the same connecting rod cap bolts a maximum of three times.
Tighten the bolts (1) by hand.

If this proves difficult or in the case of jamming, undo the bolts and lubricate them again.
Remove excess grease. Tighten the bolt by hand until the head seats against the connecting rod.

Fit the spacer of the tool 88713.2878 between the connecting rods and take up residual axial play with the fork
feeler gauge of the tool 88713.2878 which is available in the following thicknesses:
0.1 mm - 0.2 mm - 0.3 mm.
Temporarily fit the gudgeon pin to align the connecting rods, and then tighten the bolts.
Tighten the bolts (1) with a torque wrench and angle reading (degree wheel) in accordance with the procedure
described below (observe the same tightening sequence at each step as that of the previous step):
1 first torque each bolt to a value of 20 Nm;
2 now carry out a second tightening stage applying a torque of 35 Nm on each bolt;
now tighten each bolt, reading the angle of rotation, to 85 Nm, checking that the final angle is between 55° and
3
90°.
Important
If the final angle is less than 55° or greater than 90°, repeat the procedure using two new bolts.

Refitting the connecting rods.

Install the connecting rod assembly (7) and (2) in the crankcase, carry out the shimming and crankcase reassembly
procedure as described in Sect. N 9.2, Reassembly of the crankcase halves.
Important
Make sure that the connecting rods (2) are correctly positioned in the respective cylinder seats. Incorrect positioning
of the connecting rods at this stage will inevitably lead to the need to re-open the crankcase.

Refit the clutch assembly N 6.1, Reassembly of the clutch
crankcase cover
Refit the engine starter system P 3, Starter motor
assemblies assembly
Refit the cooling system N 3.2, Refitting the radiator

Install the engine in the frame N 1, Refitting the engine

Electric system
0Electric system
1 - Wiring diagram 4
Key to wiring diagram 5
Wiring colour codes 6
Key to fusebox 6
Routing of wiring on frame 7
Plate 1 9
Plate 2 9
Plate 3 10
Plate 4 10
Plate 5 11
Plate 6 11
Plate 7 12
Plate 8 13
Plate 9 14
Plate 10 14
Plate 11 15
Plate 12 15
Plate 13 16
Plate 14 17
Plate 15 18
Plate 16 19
Plate 17 20
Plate 18 21
Plate 19 22
Plate 20 23
Plate 21 24
Plate 22 24
Plate 23 25
Plate 24 26
Plate 25 27
Plate 26 28
Plate 27 29
Plate 28 30
Plate 28 31
Plate 29 32
Plate 30 33
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Electric system
Plate 31 34
Plate 32 35
Plate 33 36
Plate 34 37
Plate 35 37
Plate 36 38
Plate 37 39
Plate 38 40
Plate 39 41
Plate 40 42
Plate 41 43
Plate 42 44
Plate 43 45
2 - Battery charging system 46

Checking the battery charging system 46
Recharging the battery 47
Topping up the electrolyte 48
Battery 51
Alternator 53
Regulator/rectifier 56
3 - Electric starting system 59

Electric starting system 59
Starter motor 60
Starter contactor 63
4 - Lights and indicating devices 66

High beam headlights relay 69
Headlight aim 71
5 - Indicating devices 72
Checking the indicating system components 72
Fan relay 80
Checking operation of the fan relay 80

Electric system
6 - Protection and safety devices 85

Checking protection and safety device components 85
Checking the fuses 87
7 - Instruments 88
Instrument panel 88
Instrument panel system 89
Display settings and functions 91
8 - Immobilizer and transponder 118

Using a multimeter to check the electrical systems 122
10 - USB Data Acquisition (DAQ) (for 1098S only) 124

USB Data Acquisition (DAQ) (for 1098S only)
10 -USB Data Acquisition (DAQ) (for 1098S only)

A USB DAQ (1) is supplied in kit form. To use it, position it under the seat with the cap (2) fitted and
the connector (3) from the main wiring loom connected. Refer to the instrument panel functions
(Sect. P 7, USB DAQ (Switching ON/OFF)).
Warning
Each time you disconnect the data acquisition kit, be sure to refit the cap on the respective connector.
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Wiring diagram
1 - Wiring diagram
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Wiring diagram
Key to wiring diagram

1 Right-hand handlebar switch
2 Key switch
3 Left cooling fan
4 Right cooling fan
5 Starter motor
6 Starter contactor
7 Battery
8 Regulator fuse
9 Regulator
10 Alternator
11 Rear right-turn signal
12 Tail light
13 Number plate light
14 Rear left-turn signal
15 Fuel tank
16 Stepper motor
17 Injection relay
18 Self-diagnosis
19 Horizontal cylinder coil
20 Vertical cylinder coil
21 Horizontal cylinder spark plug
22 Vertical cylinder spark plug
23 Horizontal cylinder injector
24 Vertical cylinder injector
25 Throttle position sensor
26 Rpm/timing sensor
28 Speed sensor
29 Sidestand
30 Horn
31 Neutral switch
32 Oil pressure switch
33 Rear brake light switch
34 ECU
35 Fuses
36 Clutch switch
37 Front brake light switch
38 Left-hand handlebar switch
39 Transponder antenna
41 Finish line sensor
42 Dashboard
43 Lights relay
44 Front left-turn signal
45 Headlight
46 Right sidelight

Wiring diagram
47 Front right-turn signal

48 EX-UP motor
49 Fan relay
50 Left sidelight
51 Data Acquisition
52 Lambda sensor
Wiring colour codes

B Blue
Bk Black
Bn Brown
G Green
Gr Grey
Lb Light blue
O Orange
P Pink
R Red
V Violet
W White
Y Yellow
Key to fusebox
Pos. Item Val.

1 Key-on 10 A
2 Lights 15 A
3 Device 15 A
4 Instrument panel 5A
5 Injection 20 A
6 Engine Electronic Control Unit 5A
7 Fans 7,5 A
Routing of wiring on frame

Routing of wiring has been optimised to ensure the minimum obstruction.
Each section is designed to prevent interference with parts that might damage wires or cause operating failures when
riding. The diagrams on the following pages show the origins (“0” points) for correct re-routing of cables and the
locations of cable ties.
Each figure includes references to the diagrams showing the cable routing or the item to which it must be connected.

Wiring diagram
Position Description
1 Plate 8 Air temperature sensor wiring
2 Plate 8 Lights relay wire
3 Plate 9 Instrument panel wiring
4 Plate 9 Right front indicator wiring branch
5 Plate 9 Left front indicator wiring branch
6 Plate 10 Headlight wiring
7 Plate 10 Right sidelight wiring
8 Plate 10 Left sidelight wiring
9 Plate 11 Finish line sensor wiring
10 Plate 12 Coolant temperature sensor wiring
11 Plate 13 Vertical cylinder coil wire
12 Plate 13 Main wiring rear branch
13 Plate 14 Horizontal cylinder coil connector
14 Plate 14 Main wiring branch
15 Plate 14 Fusebox
16 Plate 15 Right-hand handlebar switch wire
17 Plate 15 Front brake switch wire
18 Plate 16 Immobilizer antenna wiring
19 Plate 17 Right cooling fan wiring
20 Plate 18 Keyswitch wire
21 Plate 18 Left-hand handlebar switch connector.
22 Plate 18 Keyswitch connector
23 Plate 18 Clutch switch connector
24 Plate 18 Left-hand handlebar switch wire
25 Plate 18 Clutch switch wire
26 Plate 19 Left cooling fan connector
27 Plate 20 Horizontal cylinder injector
28 Plate 21/Plate 22 Pick-up connector
29 Plate 21/Plate 22 Alternator connector
30 Plate 21/Plate 22 Engine earth cable
31 Plate 23 Horn wiring
32 Plate 24 Rear brake light switch wiring
33 Plate 25 Neutral sensor wiring
34 Plate 26 Oil pressure sensor wiring
35 Plate 27 Speed sensor wiring
36 Plate 28 Lambda sensor wiring
37 Plate 29 Stepper motor wiring branch

Wiring diagram
38 Plate 29 TPS wiring branch

39 Plate 30 Fuel tank flange wiring
40 Plate 31 Sidestand wiring
41 Plate 32 Vertical cylinder injector wiring
42 Plate 33 Exhaust valve motor wiring
43 Plate 34/Plate 35 Data acquisition connector
44 Plate 34/Plate 35 Rear wiring harness connector
45 Plate 35/Plate 36/ Battery support wiring branch
Plate 37/Plate 38/
Plate 39/Plate 40/
Plate 41
46 Plate 35/Plate 36 Fuse
47 Plate 36 Contactor/battery positive terminal cable
48 Plate 37 Contactor connector
49 Plate 38 ECU earth
50 Plate 38 ECU connector (body)
51 Plate 38/Plate 41 ECU connector (engine)
52 Plate 39 Relay (injection and fans)
53 Plate 40 Wiring branch for sidestand switch connector
54 Plate 40 Regulator/main wiring harness connector
55 Plate 41 Battery negative
56 Plate 41 Pick-up connector
57 Plate 41 Earth connections union
58 Plate 41 Engine earth
59 Plate 42/Plate 43 Starter motor/contactor cable

Plate 1
Plate 1
Plate 2
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Plate 1
Plate 3

Plate 1
Plate 4

Plate 1
Plate 5

Plate 1
Plate 6

Plate 1
Plate 7

Plate 1
Plate 8

Plate 1
Plate 9

Plate 1
Plate 10

Plate 1
Plate 11

Plate 1
Plate 12

Plate 1
Plate 13

Plate 1
Plate 14

Plate 1

Plate 1
Plate 15

Plate 1
Plate 16

Plate 1
Plate 17

Plate 1

Plate 1
Plate 18

Plate 1
Plate 19

Plate 1

Plate 1
Plate 20

Plate 1
Plate 21

Plate 1
Plate 22

Plate 1
Plate 23

Plate 1
Plate 24

Plate 1
Plate 25

Plate 1
Plate 26

Plate 1
Plate 27

Plate 1
Plate 28

Plate 1

Plate 1
Plate 28

Plate 1
Plate 29

Plate 1
Plate 30

Plate 1
Plate 31

Plate 1
Plate 32

Plate 1
Plate 33

Plate 1

Plate 1
Plate 34

Plate 1
Plate 35

Plate 1
Plate 36

Plate 1
Plate 37

Plate 1

Plate 1
Plate 38

Plate 1
Plate 39

Plate 1
Plate 40

Plate 1
Plate 41

Plate 1

Plate 1
Plate 42

Plate 1
Plate 43

Plate 1

Battery charging system
2 - Battery charging system

Checking the battery charging system
To check the current flow in the charging circuit, use the “DDS” tester, which is equipped with an inductive clamp-type
ammeter. see the chapter “Testing the battery charging system”, Sect. D 5.
With the “DDS” tester you can determine the engine rpm required for the alternator to produce sufficient current to
charge the battery, power the injection/ignition system and all the electrical equipment on the motorcycle. When
applied to a cable, the ammeter clamp detects the magnetic field generated by the current passing through that cable.
The tester performs an automatic calibration routine using its own transducer. If the measured current is a positive
quantity, this means that alternator is powering all the electrical loads and charging battery at the same time. A
negative value means that charging system is not powering the loads and a significant amount of current must be
supplied by the battery, which is discharging at the time of the measurement.
Alternatively, a multimeter can be used (Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments): connect the multimeter probes to the
battery terminals, select the DC scale on the instrument and check for the presence of 14.5 V±0.5 at an engine
speed of 3000 rpm.
Important
If polarity is reversed when clamping the ammeter onto the cable, the sign of the readings will also be reversed,
giving rise to incorrect diagnosis.
Recharging the battery

Examine the label on the battery showing the check intervals in order to determine when to test the voltage.
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Charge the battery if the open circuit voltage is lower than 12.8 V. Leaving the battery discharged for more than one
month could damage it. Check the battery charge with a voltmeter.
Always check the condition of the battery before recharging and 1 to 2 hours afterwards.
Important
Pay careful attention to recharging times. Interrupt charging immediately if the battery becomes too hot to the touch.
Leave to cool before resuming charging.
Use only constant-voltage battery chargers.

Check that battery terminals are properly connected to the battery charger.
To charge the battery, proceed as follows:
Type of charging Volt. Ampere (A) Time (Hours)

Normal 12 1,8 5-10
Fast 12 9 1
Use fast charging in emergencies only.
Storing the battery

If the battery voltage is less than or equal to 11.5 V, it must be recharged.
Connect the battery charger to the battery.
Use a voltage of 16-17 V.
If the ammeter shows no change, increase the voltage to the maximum of 25 V.
Charge for 5 minutes.
If the ammeter shows a change, return the voltage to 16-17 V; otherwise replace the battery.
Topping up the electrolyte

Remove the battery from the motorcycle.
Warning
Carefully read the relevant safety rules before working on the battery (Sect. A 3, General safety rules). The electrolyte
in the battery is toxic and can cause burns if it comes into contact with the skin because it contains sulphuric acid.
Wear protective clothing, a face-mask and goggles when adding electrolyte. If the liquid comes into contact with the
skin, wash thoroughly with cold water. If it comes into contact with the eyes, wash thoroughly with water for
15 minutes and consult an ophthalmologist. In the event of accidental ingestion, drink large quantities of water or
milk, and continue with milk of magnesia, beaten egg or vegetable oil. Do not allow sparks, flames, cigarettes or any
other heat source to come near the battery, as it produces explosive gases. When recharging or using the battery
indoors, make sure that the room is adequately ventilated. Do not inhale the gases produced during recharging. KEEP
OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
Place the battery on a flat surface. Remove the protective film (1).

Warning
Make certain that the electrolyte is of the specific type for your battery.
Remove the container with the electrolyte from the vinyl bag. Remove the strip with the caps (3) from the container
(2).
Important
Keep the cap strip (3) to hand because it will be used later as plugs for the battery cells.
Warning
Do not peel or perforate the sealed areas.

Place the electrolyte container (2) upside down. Align the six sealed elements with the six filler holes on the battery.
Push the container (2) downwards with sufficient force to break the seals and allow the liquid to flow out.
Notes
Do not tilt the electrolyte container as this could interrupt the flow temporarily or even permanently.
Make certain that air bubbles emerge from all six filler holes. Leave the container in this position for at least twenty
minutes.
If no bubbles emerge from one of the holes, tap gently on the bottom of the respective container.
Important
Never move the container away from the battery. Do not cut or puncture the liquid container.
Make sure that all the electrolyte has flowed out. Carefully extract the container (2) from the battery.
Place the cap strip (3) previously removed from the electrolyte container (2) on the battery, making sure that the
strip closes all the electrolyte filler holes correctly.

For 3-12 Ah batteries, leave to stand for at least 30 mins.

For batteries of over 12 AH, leave to stand for at least 1 hour.
Rest the cap strip on the filler holes without fixing it. Recharge the battery as described in the paragraph “Recharging
the battery”.
Notes
If using an automatic charge reducing battery charger, make certain that the charger current (amps) is greater than
or equal to the standard (STD) recharging system indicated on the battery.
Press firmly downwards with both hands until the caps are firmly in place (do not use a hammer).

Battery
Battery safety rules
Warning
Carefully read the relevant safety rules before working on the battery (Sect. A 3, General safety rules). When under
charge, batteries produce explosive gases. Keep batteries away from heat sources, sparks or open flames.
Instructions for use

The battery is of the sealed, maintenance-free type and requires no work to be done on it at the time of installation.
Notes
Always keep the battery clean. Apply grease around the battery terminal clamps to prevent corrosion.
Warning
Never remove the valve cover located on top of the cover. If the block, cover or terminals are broken or if the valve
cover has been tampered with it is essential to change the battery.
Important
If the motorcycle is left unused for more than 30 days, remove the battery and store it in a safe, cool place.
Always charge the battery before the first use and after long storage periods - such as before selling the vehicle.
Removal of the battery

Remove the left-hand side fairing (Sect. E 2, Removal of the side fairings).
Unscrew the bolt (2) and securing the bracket (3), then remove the bracket (A) and (5).
Undo the terminal bolts (4) and (5). Always start with the negative terminal.
Remove the battery (1).

Refitting the battery

Refitting is the reverse of removal. Pay particular attention to the terminals (1), which should not show any sign of
oxidisation. Tighten the terminal screws (4) and (5) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and
apply a water repellent spray.

Alternator
The motorcycle is equipped with a 12 V -520 W alternator, consisting of a stator (A) located in the left-hand side
crankcase cover and a rotor (B) fixed to the crankshaft.
Notes
To check the charging system for possible faults, use the “DDS” tester (Sect. D 5, DDS tester).
The absolute value of voltage measured across the terminals of two of the three yellow cables (the measured value
will be the same whichever combination of cable is used) must be within the range indicated in the table below.
(Ambient temperature: 20 °C)
Important
Before testing, disconnect the alternator wiring from the electrical system when the ignition key is set to OFF.
Engine rpm 2000 6000

effective V 27±10 78±10
Values significantly lower than those indicated above can be due to:
- partially demagnetised rotor;
- short-circuited coil windings.
In the above cases the whole alternator assembly (rotor and stator) should be renewed.
If checks have a favourable outcome, reconnect the alternator to the regulator with ignition key on OFF. Make sure
that no cables are damaged or disconnected.
Removal of the alternator


Disconnect the alternator wires from the electrical system (refer to plate in chapter “Routing of wiring on frame”
Sect. P 1).
Remove the alternator cover, the stator (A) and rotor (B) (Sect. N 8, Removal of the left-hand side crankcase cover).
Refitting the alternator

Fit the rotor (B), the stator (A) and the left-hand crankcase cover.
Reconnect the alternator wires to the electrical system (refer to plate in chapter “Routing of wiring on frame”
Sect. P 1).

Regulator/rectifier
The regulator (2) is fixed to the battery support (3).
The rectifier-regulator consists of an aluminium casing containing the diodes that rectify the current produced by the
alternator. It also contains an electronic device that regulates the current supplied by the alternator in accordance
with battery voltage.
If the battery is drained, the current has the value necessary to restore optimum operating conditions of the battery.
In contrast, if the battery is fully charged, the current value will be lower.
Notes
Check the charging current using the “DDS” tester (Sect. D 5, DDS tester).
Removal of the regulator

To remove the voltage regulator, first remove the ECU (4) and disconnect the voltage regulator wiring (Sect. M 3,
Removal of the battery support).
Undo the screws (1) securing the regulator (2) to the battery support (3).
Remove the regulator (2).
Important
Do not disconnect the battery cables when engine is running because this would cause irreparable damage to the
regulator.

Refitting the regulator

Fit the regulator (2) to the battery support (3).
Secure it with the bolts (1) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Notes
Reconnect the regulator cable to the main wiring loom (Sect. P 1, Plate 40).
Refit the ECU (4) (Sect. M 3, Refitting the battery support).
Important
Do not disconnect the battery cables when engine is running because this would cause irreparable damage to the
regulator.

Regulator fuse
The 30 A fuse located at the side of the battery protects the electronic regulator. To gain access to the fuse, remove
the left-hand fairing (Sect. E 2, Removal of the side fairings) and remove the protective cap (A).
A blown fuse can be identified by breakage of the inner filament (B).
Important
Switch the ignition key to OFF before replacing a fuse to avoid possible short circuits.
Warning
Never use a fuse with a rating other than the specified value. Failure to observe this rule may damage the electric
system or even cause fire.
1

Electric starting system
3 - Electric starting system
Notes
The references of the elements shown below are to be found in the “Wiring diagram”, in Sect. P 1.

The key components of the electric starting system are a contactor (6) and a starter motor (5) fed by
the battery (7).
The engine starting strategy is managed entirely by the engine ECU (34), which monitors the following
inputs:
- Engine Stop switch on right-hand handlebar switch (1)
- Engine starter switch on right-hand handlebar switch (1)
- Neutral sensor (31)
- Sidestand sensor (29)
- Clutch microswitch (36)
When these inputs are combined in the required manner, the engine control unit (34) enables engine
starting.
The table lists possible engine starting combinations.

In accordance with the status of specific engine control unit inputs and the indications given in the
table, the control unit enables operation of the starter motor (ON status) when the START button is
pressed.
X = generic status of neutral sensor, clutch, and sidestand.
Safety device functions table

Starter motor
Power:
0.7 kw/12 V
Direction of rotation:
counterclockwise viewed from power take-off side.

The starter motor is highly compact and reliable and therefore rarely gives any type of problem. In
case of malfunction, ensure that the starter motor wiring terminal is properly tightened under the nut
and shows no sign of corrosion. If the terminal is properly tightened and free from corrosion, remove
the starter motor and test it under no-load conditions (no load applied to the shaft). Secure the starter
motor to a test bench, making sure you do not damage the casing. Use a fully charged 12 V battery for
the test. Use battery-motor connection cables which are no longer than 70 cm and with the same
cross-section as the cable on the motorcycle itself. Connect the negative terminal of the battery to an
unpainted area of the starter motor casing and the positive terminal to its electrical terminal. The shaft
of the starter motor should rotate freely and at high speed. Take care not to short-circuit the two
cables connected to the battery.
Removal of the starter motor

Remove the side fairings (Sect. E 2, Removal of the side fairings).
Remove the left-hand crankcase cover (Sect. N 8, Removal of the left-hand side crankcase cover).
If the whole starting gear assembly needs to be renewed, remove the timing gears and the starter
motor idler gear (Sect. N 9.1, Removal of the starter motor idler gear).
Disconnect the starter motor/starter contactor cable (4) (Sect. P 1, Plate 42, Plate 43).
Remove the fixing screw (1) and, if necessary, the insert (2).
Unscrew the retaining bolts (3).

Notes
The starter motor retaining bolts are assembled with threadlocker.
Slide out the starter motor and gasket (5).
Refitting the starter motor

Inspect the condition of the gasket (5) and renew if necessary.
Place the gasket (5) and the starter motor on the crankcase and tighten the bolts (3) to the specified
torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings.

Locate the insert (2) (if removed) in the crankcase, fit the retaining screw (1) and tighten it to the
specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Connect the starter motor/contactor cable (4).
Important
Fill the cap with protective grease before fitting it on the starter motor
If the starting gears assembly has been renewed, refit the starter motor idler gear and the timing

gears (Sect. N 9.1, Refitting the starter motor idler gear).

Refit the left-hand side crankcase cover (Sect. N 8, Refitting the left-hand crankcase cover).
Refit the side fairings (Sect. E 2, Refitting the side fairings).
Starter contactor
The contactor is elastically mounted to the battery support.
Disconnect the battery (Sect. P 2, Battery).
Remove the protective caps (A).
Unscrew the nuts (4), taking care to recover the spring washers (3).
Remove the starter motor-contactor cable (2). Remove the contactor-battery cable (1).
Disconnect the starter contactor wiring connector (5) from the wiring loom (Sect. P 1, Plate 37).

Checking operation of the starter contactor

Apply 12 V (battery voltage) across the positive terminal (A) and negative terminal (B) of the
connector.
With a multimeter connected between the two poles (threaded studs (C) and (D)) of the contactor,
check for electrical continuity (Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments). If there is no electrical continuity,
renew the contactor.

Fit the contactor on the fins (A).
Route the cable (5) beneath the contactor as shown in the figure.
Ensure that the terminals are not oxidized and apply water repellent spray.

Connect the cables (1) and (2) to the contactor terminals (Sect. P 1, Plate 36, Plate 42).
Tighten the nuts (4) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Reconnect the contactor wiring connector to the wiring loom (Sect. P 1, Plate 37).
Refit the protective caps (B).

Lights and indicating devices
4 - Lights and indicating devices

Changing light bulbs
Changing the headlight bulbs

Before replacing a burnt out light bulb, ensure that the replacement bulb has the same voltage and
power rating as specified for the lighting device in question (Sect. C 1.1, Lights/instrument panel).
Warning
The halogen light bulbs in the headlight become hot when switched on and remain hot for some time
after they are switched off. Allow bulbs to cool before replacing them.
The position of the light bulbs in the headlight is as indicated below: low beam (LO), high beam (HI)
and parking light (A).
To access the headlight bulbs, remove the air scoop covers of the headlight shell (Sect. E 1, Removal
of the air scoop covers).
High beam bulb (HI):

Remove the cover (1) by pressing the tab (B).

Remove the bulb lead (2) and remove the bulb from the lead.
Notes
Do not touch the transparent part of the bulb with your fingers, this will darken it and cause a loss of
brightness.
Low beam bulb (LO):

Repeat the operations for removal of the high beam bulb, but this time working on the right-hand side
of the motorcycle.
Parking lights (A):

To replace the parking light withdraw the bulb holder (3) from the rear of the headlight. Remove the
bulbs and replace them.

Refitting the bulbs

After replacing the bulbs as required, reconnect the bulb holders to the lights assembly.
Reposition the covers (1) and secure them to the headlight assembly with the clips (B).
Changing the number plate light bulb

To access the number plate light bulb, unscrew the two screws (4) securing the cover (5).
Extract the bulb and renew it.

High beam headlights relay

The headlights relay (1) is located on the front subframe. To gain access to this component you must
first remove the headlight shell (Sect. E 1, Removal of the headlight shell). A low beam lights relay (1)
has been introduced into the system in order to reduce battery power consumption by automatically
switching off the headlight.
The device is triggered in two cases:

in the first case, if you turn the key from OFF to ON and do not start the engine, After 60 seconds the
- headlight will be deactivated and will only be reactivated the next time the key is turned from OFF to
ON or the engine is started.
in the second case, after normal use of the motorcycle with the lights on, if the engine is shut off
- using the ENGINE STOP switch (2). In this case, 60 seconds after the engine is stopped, the headlight
will be turned off and will only be turned on again the next time the engine is started.
Notes
Also during engine starting, the system turns the headlight off and turns it back on once the engine
has started.
If this strategy is not performed, check the correct operation of the various parts involved.
Checking operation of the high beam lights relay

Disconnect the relay (1) from the electrical system and apply 12 V (battery voltage) between contacts

(113) and (133) (small contacts): you should hear a click that confirms that the internal electromagnet
has switched.
Connect a multimeter to contacts (121) and (122) (big contacts) to check for the full scale reading
(analogue tester) or buzzer (digital tester). If this does not occur, the part must be renewed.
Headlight aim
The motorcycle must be perfectly upright with the tires inflated to the correct pressure and with a rider
seated, perfectly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis.
Position the motorcycle 10 metres from a wall or a screen.
On the wall or surface, draw a horizontal line at the same height from the ground as the centre of the
headlight and a vertical line aligned with the longitudinal axis of the motorcycle.
Notes
If possible, perform this check in conditions of low ambient light.
Switch on the low beam. The height of the upper limit between the dark area and the lit area must not
be more than nine tenths of the height of the centre of the headlight from the ground.
Notes
This is the procedure specified by Italian regulations for checking the maximum height of the light

beam.
Vertical alignment is adjusted by way of the adjuster screws (1) on the rear of the headlight.

Indicating devices
5 - Indicating devices
Checking the indicating system components
In the event of a fault, the internal connections of the device must be checked in all operating
conditions. To do this, disconnect the switch connector from the main wiring loom (Sect. P 1, Routing
of wiring on frame).
Test the device using either an analogue or digital multimeter (Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments.
Notes
The same check can also be performed using the “DDS” tester (Sect. D 5, DDS tester).
Checking the left-hand handlebar switch

To remove the left-hand handlebar switch, undo the fixing screws (1) and disconnect it from the
electrical system.
The colours mentioned in the following descriptions refer to the colours of the wires from the switch
and not to the colours of the wires of the main electrical system.
HORN button
Connect the terminals of a multimeter to the Black/White and Brown wires to check for electrical
continuity, which must be present when the HORN is pressed (see Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments,
concerning operation of the multimeter). When the HORN button is pressed, the resistance value
shown by the multimeter should be close to zero and, if available, a continuity beep should be heard.
When the HORN button is not pressed, the resistance value should be infinity (there is no continuity as
the electrical contacts inside the pushbutton are open) and no continuity beep should be heard. If
these conditions are not met, the device must be replaced.

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Turn signal switch (TURN)

Connect the multimeter to the Orange and Green wires from the turn signal switch and check for
electrical continuity when operating the right turn signals (see Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments
concerning operation of the multimeter). Repeat the above procedure for the left turn signal but
connect the multimeter to the Green and Orange wires. The above colours refer to the colour of wires
from the switch and not to the colour of wires of the main electrical system.
Low and high beam headlights (DIMMER)
The test method is the same; connect the meter to the Red/Blue and Light blue/Yellow wires.
Control switch (MODE)
Connect the multimeter to the Blue/Yellow and Orange wires from the function selector switch and
check that there is electrical continuity when the pushbutton (A) is pressed (Sect. P 9, Diagnostic
instruments – multimeter operation). Repeat the same procedure, operating the pushbutton (A) in the
other position and connecting the multimeter to the Brown and Blue/Yellow wires.

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Flasher (PASSING)
Check for continuity across the Red/Blue and Brown wires.
Refit the left-hand handlebar switch and tighten the screws (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,

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Checking the right-hand handlebar switch

To remove the right-hand handlebar switch, undo the retaining screws (1) and disconnect the wiring
connector from the electrical system.
The colours mentioned in the following descriptions refer to the colours of the wires from the switch
and not to the colours of the wires of the main electrical system.
ENGINE STOP button
Using a multimeter, check for continuity between the Red/Black and Red/White wires (see Sect. P 9,
Diagnostic instruments for information on the operation of the multimeter). When the button is in RUN
position, there should be electrical continuity between the two wires. When the button is in the OFF
position, there should be no electrical continuity between the two wires. If these conditions are not
met, the engine STOP switch is not working correctly and must be renewed. The colours indicated
above refer to the colour of wires coming from the switch and not to the colour of wires of the main
electrical system.
STARTER switch
Proceed as described for the engine STOP button and check for continuity between the Blue/White and
Black wires when the STARTER button is pressed (see Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments concerning
operation of the multimeter). If there is no continuity, the STARTER button is faulty and must be
renewed. The colours indicated above refer to the colour of wires coming from the switch and not to
the colour of wires of the main electrical system.

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Refit the left-hand handlebar switch and tighten the screws (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,
Checking the front and rear brake light switches, neutral light switch, oil pressure switch and clutch switch
Brake light switches
To check operation of the front (1) and rear (2) brake light switches, use a multimeter to check for
electrical continuity (Pos. A) between the terminals of the corresponding switch when the front or rear
brake is applied (see Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments on operation of the multimeter). When the
brake is released, there must be no electrical continuity between the terminals of the corresponding
switch (Pos. B). If these tests fail to produce positive results, the part in question must be renewed.

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Neutral indicator light

To check the neutral light switch (3) proceed as follows:

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The neutral light does not illuminate on the instrument panel.

Remove the electric terminal connected to the neutral switch. Switch on the ignition switch (ignition
key to ON position) and ensure that the light illuminates when the terminal is earthed. If the light
switches on, the neutral light switch should be changed. If the light stays off, switch off the ignition
(ignition key set to OFF) to switch off the instrument panel and check for electric continuity between
neutral switch and engine control unit with a multimeter.
The neutral light on the instrument panel is permanently illuminated.
Switch on the ignition (ignition key set to ON) and remove the electrical terminal from the neutral
switch. If the light switches off, the neutral light switch should be changed. If the light stays off, switch
off the ignition (ignition key set to OFF) and use a multimeter to check whether the section of circuit
between neutral switch and engine control unit is earthed.
Oil pressure sensor

To test the operation of the engine oil pressure sensor (4), proceed as follows:
Use the tester to check that oil pressure into engine oil circuit complies with the specified values
(Sect. D 5, Checking the engine oil pressure).
If the engine oil pressure value is outside the specified range, check the oil circuit components and
service as necessary.
If engine oil pressure value is within the specified range and the oil pressure warning light on the
instrument panel stays off, switch on the instrument panel (ignition key set to ON) without starting the
engine, and disconnect the electrical terminal from the pressure sensor and connect it to earth. If the
warning light now illuminates, this means the sensor is defective and must be replaced. If the indicator
light fails to illuminate, use a multimeter and check for electrical continuity in the section of the circuit
between sensor and warning light on the instrument panel (this check must be performed with the

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ignition key set to OFF, i.e. with instrument panel off).

If the engine oil pressure complies with the stated values and the engine oil pressure warning light on
the instrument panel is continuously illuminated, switch on the instrument panel (ignition key set to
ON) and start the engine, then disconnect the electrical terminal normally inserted on the pressure
sensor. If the warning light now switches off, this means the sensor is defective. If the warning light
fails to switch off use a multimeter and check that the section of the circuit between sensor and
warning light on the instrument panel is not connected to earth (this check must be performed with
the ignition key set to OFF, i.e. instrument panel off).
Clutch switch
For the clutch switch (5) proceed in the same manner as for the brake light switches (see beginning of
this paragraph).
Coolant temperature sensor

The coolant temperature sensor (6) sends an electrical signal to the engine ECU, which shares it with
the instrument panel over the CAN line. To check that the sensor (6) is functioning correctly, connect
the DDS tester to the diagnostics socket of the ECU and follow the instructions given in the paragraph
“Guided diagnosis” (Sect. D 5). After making the correct selections from the menu, read the value of
the coolant temperature from the parameters shown on the tester display. With the engine completely
cold, the air temperature (also read using the DDS tester) should be similar to that of the coolant.
With the engine hot and the cooler fan only just activated, the coolant temperature should be more or
less equal to the fan activation temperature. If these tests do not give a positive result, renew the
coolant temperature sensor. If the DDS reads an error in the ECU memory of the type “coolant
temperature sensor short circuit or broken circuit”, check the circuit connecting the sensor to the ECU.
If this circuit is not faulty (not broken, not shorted and not earthed), renew the sensor.

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Fan relay
The fan relay (7) is located on the right-hand side of the battery support.
To gain access to the fan relay, first remove the left-hand side fairing (Sect. E 2, Removal of the side
fairings).
Checking operation of the fan relay

Disconnect the relay from the electrical system and apply 12 V (battery voltage) between the small
contacts: you should hear a click that confirms that the internal electromagnet has switched.
Connect a multimeter to the big contacts to check for electrical continuity (Sect. P 9, Diagnostic
instruments). The resistance reading should be near zero and, if present, the continuity sound signal
should be emitted. If this does not occur, the part must be renewed.

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Changing light bulbs
Changing the turn signal light bulbs

Rear turn signals
To gain access to the rear turn signal bulbs, undo the screw (2) and detach the cover (3) from the turn
signal support. Remove the bulb (1) from the bulb holder.
Fit a new bulb (1) into the bulb holder. Refit the cover (3) to the turn signal support.
Refit and tighten the screw (2).

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Changing the front turn signals

The front turn signals (1) are built into the rear-view mirrors (Sect. E 1, Removal of the rear-view
mirrors) and in the event of malfunction, the mirror/turn signal assembly must be renewed as a
complete unit.
Changing the rear turn signal bulbs

Undo the screws (2) and remove the cover (3).
Disconnect the wiring (A) of the turns signals (4) and (5). Unscrew the nuts (6) and remove the turn
signals.
When refitting, position the turn signals by inserting the wires (A) through the relative apertures in the
number plate holder (7). Slide the nuts (6) along the wires (A) and screw them onto the turn signals to
secure them to the number plate holder. Tighten the nuts (6) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame
torque settings).
Refit the cover (3) and tighten the screws (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).

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Renewal of the rear parking light and brake light

Remove the seat cowling as indicated in Sect. E 3, Removal of the side panels and seat cowling.
Unscrew the bolts (8) and remove the parking light and brake light unit (11). Remove the spacers (9)
and grommets (10) from the old unit and fit them to the new unit (11). Fit the new parking light and
brake light unit (11) to the seat cowling, tightening the bolts (8) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,
Engine torque settings).
Refit the seat cowling as indicated in Sect. E 3, Refitting the side panels and seat cowling.
Rear view mirror adjustment

Grasp the outer part of the mirror surface (A) and move it manually to the required position relative to
the mirror support (B).

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Protection and safety devices
6 - Protection and safety devices

Checking protection and safety device components
Checking the ignition switch

Disconnect the ignition switch (A) from the wiring loom by opening its connector (Sect. P 1, Plate 18)
and use a multimeter to check its internal connections as follows:
turn the key to OFF and connect a multimeter to contacts (1) and (4) to check electrical continuity
(Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments on operation of the multimeter). The resistance reading should be
near zero and, if present, the continuity sound signal should be emitted.
turn the key to ON and connect the multimeter to contacts (3) and (6) and then to (2) and (5) to
check for electrical continuity. The resistance reading should be near zero and, if present, the
continuity sound signal should be emitted.
turn the key to PARK and connect the multimeter to contacts (1) and (4) and then to (3) and (5) to
check for electrical continuity. The resistance reading should be near zero and, if present, the
continuity sound signal should be emitted.
turn the key to LOCK and connect the multimeter to contacts (1) and (4) to check for electrical
continuity. The resistance reading should be near zero and, if present, the continuity sound signal
should be emitted.
Notes

Checking the sidestand switch

Remove the switch (1) from the sidestand and disconnect the main wiring loom connector from the
switch (Sect. P 1, Plate 31).
Use an analogue or digital multimeter (Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments) to check operation of the
switch (see table).
Notes

Pos. pin (A) Device Val.

●-▲ 0 X
▲-■ X 0
Multimeter pos. Green/ Green/
Green Yellow
White Black
0 = open contact
X = Closed contact
Checking the fuses

The main fusebox (1) is located on the left-hand side of the motorcycle and is accessed by removing
the left-hand side fairing (Sect. E 2, Removal of the side fairings).
The fuses are accessed by removing cover (2), which shows the ampere ratings and fuse positions.
For ampere ratings, refer to the “Wiring diagram”, Sect. P 1.
Important
Before replacing a damaged fuse with a new one of the same rating, identify the cause of the problem.
A blown fuse can be identified by the breakage of inner filament (A).

Important
Switch the ignition key to OFF before replacing a fuse to avoid possible short circuits.
Warning
Never use a fuse with a rating other than the specified value. Failure to observe this rule may damage
the electric system or even cause fire.
As well as the fuses in the fusebox, the motorcycle has a 30 A fuse located alongside the battery
support to protect the electronic regulator (Sect. P 2, Regulator/rectifier).
1

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7 - Instruments
Instrument panel
Remove headlight shell (Sect. E 1, Removal of the headlight shell).
Unscrew the nuts (1). Disconnect the wiring to the instrument panel (2).
Remove the instrument panel (3) complete with the cover (4).
To remove the cover (4) from the instrument panel, remove the rubber mountings (5).
On refitting, tighten the nuts (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Notes
The instrument panel is supplied as a single component; its internal components cannot be renewed separately.
Important
Whenever the instrument panel is renewed, the ignition key programming procedure must be repeated.
Instrument panel system

The instrument panel comprises a LCD digital display unit.
The information on the display can be accessed using a 2-position pushbutton (1) and the headlight flasher button (2)
on the left-hand handlebar switch. Underneath the digital display there are eight indicator lights (four per side) and a
further four auxiliary lights used to signal reaching of the limiter threshold.
The instrument panel is equipped with a sensor that detects the intensity of the ambient light. The instrument panel
automatically switches its backlighting on or off according to the intensity of light detected. The instrument panel also
has an internal temperature sensor which, if the temperature rises above 70 °C, switches off the backlighting to
prevent possible damage.
The instrument panel also houses the atmospheric pressure sensor: the engine ECU acquires this signal via the CAN

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(Controller Area Network) serial communication line.
Indicator lights
The following indicator lights are mounted on the instrument panel.
3) Neutral light (green): illuminates when the gearbox is in neutral.
4) Low fuel light (yellow): illuminates when there are approximately only 3 litres of fuel left in the tank.
5) Turn signal lights (green). illuminate and flash when the corresponding turn signal is in operation.
6) Engine oil pressure light (red): illuminates when the engine oil pressure is too low. This light should come on when
the ignition is switched to ON and normally goes out a few seconds after engine starts. It may come on briefly if the
engine is very hot, but should go out again as engine speed increases.
7) High beam warning light (blue): illuminates when the high beam headlight is on.
8) Engine diagnostics warning light (amber): switches on permanently in the event of a problem with the engine and/
or injection system.
9) Motorcycle diagnostics warning light (amber): switches on permanently in the event of a problem with the
motorcycle.
10) Limiter indicator lights.

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Display settings and functions

On switching on the power (key turned from OFF to ON), the instrument panel activates all the digits of the LCD for
1 second and switches on all the warning lights in sequence.
It then reverts to “normal” display mode and, in place of motorcycle speed, shows the model and, for 2 seconds, also
the version (EU, UK, USA, CND, FRA, JAP).
The model is displayed cyclically until the engine is started.
At Key-On the instrument panel always shows the following information (de-activating any previously activated
functions):
Odometer
Air temperature
Clock
Speed
Coolant temperature
Engine rpm
At this point, with button (1) in position B “▼” it is possible to switch from the odometer display function to the
following functions:
TRIP A
TRIP B
TRIP FUEL (only if active)
before returning to Odometer.
If, however, you press button (1) in position A “▲” the system enters MENU mode and displays the following functions
in sequence:
Error (only if active)
BATT
RPM
LAP (OFF or ON)
LAP MEM
USB (OFF or ON)
Erase USB
TIME Set

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CODE (only if active)
Important
This menu is active only if the speed of the motorcycle is less than 20 km/h. If this menu is on the display and the
speed of the motorcycle exceeds 20 km/h, the instrument panel automatically exits the menu and returns to the
initial display. It is possible to exit the menu at any time, however, by pressing button (1) in position A “▲” for
3 seconds.
Total distance travelled indicator (odometer)

At Key-On the system automatically enters this function.
The reading is saved permanently and cannot be reset.
If it exceeds 99999 km (or 99999 miles), the reading “99999” remains displayed permanently.
Trip meter “TRIP A”

While in this function, if you press button (1) in position B “▼” for 3 seconds, the reading is reset to zero.
If the reading exceeds 999.9, it is reset to zero and the count restarts automatically.
If the system’s units of measurement are changed at any time with the “Setting Special” function, the reading in this
function is reset and the count restarts from zero in the newly set unit of measurement.

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Trip meter “TRIP B”

While in this function, if you press button (1) in position B “▼” for 3 seconds, the reading is reset to zero.
If the reading exceeds 999.9, it is reset to zero and the count restarts automatically.
If the system’s units of measurement are changed at any time with the “Setting Special” function, the reading in this
function is reset and the count restarts from zero in the newly set unit of measurement.

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“TRIP FUEL” (distance travelled on reserve fuel) indicator

When the fuel warning light (4) comes on, the TRIP FUEL meter is activated automatically, regardless of the function
displayed. If the fuel level remains in reserve, the reading is saved even after Key-Off.
At the next Key-On, the fuel warning light comes back on after a few seconds and the TRIP FUEL meter is displayed
after 60 seconds (although it starts counting the distance travelled as soon as the motorcycle moves off).
The count stops automatically when the fuel level rises above reserve.
If the reading exceeds 999.9, it is reset and the count restarts automatically.
Air temperature indicator

Shows the outside air temperature.
Display limits: -39 °C to +124 °C.
In the event of a sensor FAULT (-40 °C, +125 °C or disconnected) a series of dashes “- - -” is displayed steadily and
the engine diagnostics warning light (8) comes on.

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Coolant temperature indicator

Displays the engine coolant temperature:
if the reading is less than or equal to -40 °C (-104 °F), the display shows a series of flashing dashes (“---”) and the
Engine Diagnostics warning light comes on (8);
if the reading is between -39 °C (-38 °F) and +39 °C (+102 °F), the display shows the fixed message “LO”;
if the reading is between +40 °C (+104 °F) and +120 °C (+248 °F), the display shows a fixed reading;
if the reading is between +121 °C (+250 °F) and +124 °C (+255 °F), the display shows the flashing message “HI”;
if the reading is greater than or equal to +125 °C (+257 °F), the display shows a series of flashing dashes (“---”) and
the Engine Diagnostics warning light (8) comes on.
In the event of a sensor FAULT, a series of flashing dashes (“---”) appears and the Engine Diagnostics warning light
(8) comes on.

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Service indicator (SERV)

Indicates that the next service is due.
The message “SERV” appears on the display at the following intervals:
after the first 1000 km on the odometer;
every 12000 km on the odometer.
The message is displayed only at Key-On for 5 seconds.
After servicing, the system must be reset with the DDS tester.
Instrument panel diagnostics
Important
The instrument runs the system diagnostics correctly 60 seconds after the last Key-Off.
Any anomalous behaviours of the motorcycle are displayed.

If there are several errors, they are displayed in rolling mode every 3 seconds.
The table below shows the errors that can be displayed.
Warning light Error message Error
COIL 10.1 Horizontal cylinder coil error
COIL 10.2 Horizontal cylinder coil error
COIL 11.1 Vertical cylinder coil error
COIL 11.2 Vertical cylinder coil error

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INJE 12.1 Horizontal cylinder injector error
INJE 12.2 Horizontal cylinder injector error
INJE 13.1 Vertical cylinder injector error
INJE 13.2 Vertical cylinder injector error
PUMP 16.0 Fuel pump relay error
FAN 18.1 Fan relay error
FAN 18.2 Fan relay error
STRT 19.1 Starter contactor error
STRT 19.2 Starter contactor error
STEP. 21.1 Stepper motor error
LAMB. 22.1 Lambda heater error
LAMB. 22.2 Lambda heater error
EXVL 23.1 Exhaust valve motor error
TPS 1.1 Throttle position sensor error
TPS 1.2 Throttle position sensor error
PRESS 2.1 Pressure sensor error
PRESS 2.2 Pressure sensor error
T.WAT 3.1 Engine coolant temperature sensor error
T.WAT 3.2 Engine coolant temperature sensor error
AIR 4.1 Air temperature sensor error
AIR 4.2 Air temperature sensor error

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BATT 5.1 Battery voltage error
BATT 5.2 Battery voltage error
LAMB 6.1 Lambda sensor error
TILT 6.2 Lambda 2 sensor error
Traction control unit error (the error can only occur if the bike has been
DTC 8.0
fitted with the traction control kit available from Ducati performance)
ECU 30.0 Engine ECU error
PK.UP 34.0 Pick-up sensor error
SPEE. 36.0 Speed sensor error
IMMO 37.0 Immobilizer error
CAN 38.0 CAN line error
Battery voltage indicator (BATT)

To display this function, go into the menu and select the “BATT” page.
The battery voltage reading is displayed as follows:
if the reading is between 12.1 and 14.9 Volts, it remains fixed;
if the reading is between 10.0 and 12.0 Volts or between 15.0 and 16.0 Volts, it flashes;
if the reading is less than or equal to 9.9 Volts, the flashing message “LO” appears on the display and the Motorcycle
Diagnostics warning light (9) comes on;
if the reading is greater than or equal to 16.1 Volts, the flashing message “HI” appears on the display and the
Motorcycle Diagnostics warning light (9) comes on.

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Adjusting the engine idle speed (rpm)

To display the function, go into the menu and call up the “RPM” page.
As well as the top rev counter scale, the display also shows engine rpm numerically so that you can adjust the idle
speed more precisely.

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LAP function
To activate this function, go into the menu and set the “LAP” function to “On” by keeping button (1) in position B “▼”
for 3 seconds.
The function is now enabled and awaiting the start command.

START and STOP the timer by pressing the high beam FLASH button (2) on the left-hand handlebar switch.
Alternatively, these functions can be performed automatically by the MT 906/D and MT 907/D infrared system by
Magneti Marelli, by connecting the latter to data acquisition connector (T).
When the LAP function is active, each time you press the FLASH button, the display will show the lap time for
10 seconds, before reverting to normal mode.
During these 10 seconds, the speed reading remains on the display in place of the air temperature reading.
You can save a maximum of 30 laps in the memory.
If the memory is full, each time you press the FLASH button, the display will not save any more lap times and will
display the flashing message “FULL” for 3 seconds until the memory is reset by means of the “LAP MEMORY” function.

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When you switch the LAP function off using the menu, the lap in progress is not saved.
If the LAP function is active and the display is suddenly switched off (Key-Off), the LAP function is switched off
automatically (even if the timer was ON, the lap in progress is not saved).
If the timer is not stopped, when it reaches 99 minutes, 59 seconds and 99 hundredths, it restarts from 0 (zero) and
continues until the function is switched off.
If, however, the LAP function is switched on and the memory has not been cleared, but less than 30 laps have been
saved (e.g. 18 laps), the display will save any remaining laps until the memory is saturated (in this case, it will save a
further 12 laps).
In this function, lap time only is displayed, but other data are also saved (MAX speed, MAX rpm, limiter if reached) for
viewing at a later date in the Lap Memory function.

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LAP Memory display

Displays the data saved with the LAP function: lap time, MAX speed and MAX rpm (and limiter if reached).

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To display the saved times, go into the menu and select the “LAP MEM” page.
From this page, if you hold button (1) in position B “▼“ for 3 seconds, the data for the first lap will appear. The
display will show the lap number, lap time, MAX speed and the MAX rpm reached for the lap in question.
If you press the button (1) in position B “▼”, the display scrolls through the 30 saved times, before returning to the
1st lap.
If you hold the button (1) in position B “▼” for 3 seconds while displaying the saved times, the display immediately
resets all the saved times. In this case, if the LAP function was active, it is switched off automatically.
The MAX speed saved is the maximum speed indicated on the display in Lap function.
During saving, if the MAX speed shown exceeds 299 km/h (186 mph), the speed reached is displayed (e.g. 316 km/
h).
If there is no reading in the memory, the 30 times are shown, with the display showing “00.00.00”, MAX rpm = 0 and
MAX speed = 0.
During the lap, if the engine reaches one of the two thresholds before the limiter or the limiter itself, the respective
warning lights (10) come on during the display of the saved times.

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USB DAQ (Switching ON/OFF)

This function activates the USB Data Acquisition (DAQ) (Sect. P 10, USB Data Acquisition (DAQ) (for 1098S only)): In
order to acquire data, the DAQ must be connected to the motorcycle wiring loom.
To activate the DAQ, go into the menu and set the USB DAQ to “On” by holding the button (1) in position B “▼” for
3 seconds.
Data will now be saved to the DAQ. During acquisition, each time the FLASH button (2) is pressed, one LAP will be
saved, containing the “DDA” data (Sect. P 10, USB Data Acquisition (DAQ) (for 1098S only)).
The first LAP starts when the DAQ is switched on; the last LAP stops when the DAQ is switched off.
If the USB function is active and the display is suddenly switched off (Key-Off), the function is switched off
automatically.

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Erase USB
This function enables you to delete the data saved on the USB DAQ: in order to delete data, the DAQ must be
connected to the motorcycle wiring loom.
To delete the data, go into the menu and select the “Erase USB” page.
If you hold the button (1) in position B “▼” for 3 seconds and the USB DAQ is OFF, the message “WAIT…” appears on
the display for 10 seconds. After 10 seconds, the message “OK” appears for 2 seconds, to confirm that the data has
been deleted.
If, however, you hold the button (1) in position B “▼“ for 3 seconds and the USB DAQ is ON, the DAQ memory is not
cleared and the display shows the message “ERASE FAIL” for 2 seconds.

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Clock setting
To set the clock, select the “TIME Set” page from the menu.
From this page, if you press the button (1) in position B “▼” for 3 seconds, you enter clock setting mode.
On entering this mode, the message “AM” will flash on the display; pressing the button (1) in position B “▼” will
switch the display to “PM” (flashing); pressing the button (1) in position B “▼” will take you back to the previous
display (if the time is exactly 00:00, when the display switches from AM to PM the time will appear as 12:00); press
button (1) in position A “▲” to enter the hours setting mode (the hour digits flash). Each time you press the button in
position B “▼”, the count advances cyclically in steps of 1 hour; if you hold the button down in position B “▼”, the
count advances cyclically in steps of 1 hour every second (when the button is held down continuously, the hours do
not flash).
If you press the button (1) in position A “▲”, you enter the minutes setting mode and the minute digits will start
flashing. Each time you press the button into position B “▼”, the count advances cyclically in steps of 1 minute; if you
hold the button down in position B “▼”, the count advances cyclically in steps of 1 minute every second. If the button
is held in position B “▼” for more than 5 seconds, the minutes advance by 1 every 100 ms (when the button is held in
position B “▼” continuously, the seconds do not flash). If you press the button to position A “▲”, the system exits
setting mode and displays the newly set time.
Notes
If the power supply is disconnected (Battery-Off), the time setting is lost. When power is restored (Battery-On), the
display will show 0:00. Set the time according to the normal procedure.

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Immobilizer override procedure

Should the immobilizer become locked, you can perform the “Immobilizer Override” procedure from the instrument
panel by entering the respective function as follows:
Select the “CODE” page from the menu.
Notes
This menu should be active only if there is at least one immobilizer error.
With this page selected, the initial code is always displayed as “00000”. If you hold the button (1) in position B “▼”
for 3 seconds, you will access the procedure for entering the electronic code marked on the Code Card.

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Entering the code:

on entering this function, the first digit on the left starts flashing.
Button (1):
each time you press the button in position B “▼, the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second;
Iif you press the button in position A “▲”, you can set the second digit, which will start flashing. each time you press
the button in position B “▼, the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second;
if you press the button in position A “▲”, you can set the third digit, which will start flashing. each time you press the
button in position B “▼, the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second;
If you press the button inposition A “▲”, you can set the fourth digit, which will start flashing. each time you press the
if you press the button in position A “▲”, you can set the fifth digit, which will start flashing. each time you press the
press the button in position A “▲” to confirm the code.
If the code entered is incorrect, the initial code “00000” appears on the display again. There is no limit to the number
of times an incorrect code can be entered.
If the code has been entered correctly, the message CODE and the code itself will flash simultaneously for 4 seconds.
The motorcycle diagnostics warning light (9) will go off. The instrument panel then automatically exits the menu, thus

Instruments
allowing “temporary” starting of the motorcycle.
If the error persists, at the next key-on, the instrument panel will return to an error state and immobilize the engine.
Intelligent headlight switch-on

This function allows programmed activation of the headlight even with the motorcycle off (Key-Off).
Immediately after key-off, the instrument panel remains active for 60 seconds, thus allowing the headlight to be
switched on if the button (1) is pressed in position B “▼” or A “▲”.
During these 60 seconds, each time the button (1) is pressed in position B “▼” or A “▲”, the instrument enables you
to switch on the headlight for 30 seconds. Each time you press the button (1) in position B “▼” or A “▲”, a further 30
seconds will be added to the switch-on time, up to a maximum of 6 presses (the maximum time is 180 seconds).
After the first time you press the button (1) in position B “▼” or A “▲”, the period of 30 seconds starts, thus switching
on the headlight. Further switch-on time can be added only if you press the button again within these 30 seconds. If
the 30 seconds have elapsed, no further multiples of 30 seconds can be added, and the instrument panel will switch
off the headlight.
To return to this function, you must do at least one Key-On/Key-Off.
If the battery power is interrupted at any time while this function is active, when power is restored the instrument
panel will de-activate the function (the instrument panel does not remain active for 60 seconds).
Intelligent headlight switch-off

This function helps reduce battery use by automatically switching off the headlight. The device is triggered in 2 cases:
in the first case, if you turn the key from OFF to ON and do not start the engine within 60 seconds, the headlight is
-
turned off and will be turned on again only when the engine is next switched on.
in the second case, after the normal use of the motorcycle with the lights on, if the engine is stopped using the RUN-
- STOP button on the right-hand handlebar switch. In this case, the headlight is switched off 60 seconds after the
engine is switched off, and only switched on again the next time the engine is started.
Service menu
The instrument panel has a service menu, which must be used only by the dealer if necessary.
To enter the service menu, hold button (1) in position A “▲” while simultaneously turning the key switch from Off to
On. Release button (1) after about 2 seconds.

Instruments
The menu contains three functions:

Reprogramming the immobilizer (REPR. CODE);
Setting the units of measurement (SET UNIT);
Moving the exhaust valve “manually” (SET EXVL).
Reprogramming the immobilizer

This function is for reprogramming the immobilizer system in the event of loss or damage to one or both of the keys.
To display this function, go into the service menu and select the Cod. REPR.” page.
To reprogramme the immobilizer, insert the electronic code shown on the CODE CARD.
Entering the code:
press button (1) in position B “▼” for 3 seconds; the first digit on the left will start flashing;
each time you press position B “▼, the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second.
If you press the button in position A “▲”, you can set the second digit, which will start flashing. Each time you press
the button in position B “▼”, the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second.
If you press the button in position A “▲”, you can set the third digit, which will start flashing. Each time you press the
button in position B “▼, the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second.
If you press in position A “▲”, you can set the fourth digit, which will start flashing. Each time you press the button in
position B “▼”, the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second.
If you press the button in position A “▲”, you can set the fifth digit, which will start flashing. Each time you press the
button in position B “▼”, the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second.
Press in position A “▲” to confirm the code.
If the code entered is incorrect, the initial code “00000” appears on the display again. There is no limit to the number
of times an incorrect code can be entered.
If the code has been entered correctly, the message “REPR.”, the message “Cod” and the code entered flash
simultaneously; at this point, it is necessary to turn the key switch to off.
From this moment on, the immobilizer system is waiting to be programmed with the new key (or keys); at the next
Key-On, reprogramme the keys using the procedure described in “Programming the Immobilizer”.
Notes
At this stage, the immobilizer system will immobilise the engine until the keys have been reprogrammed.

Instruments
Loss of the Code Card

Without knowing the electronic code on the CODE CARD, it is impossible to:
reprogramme the immobilizer system in the event of loss of one or both of the keys;
temporarily override the immobilizer in the event of a fault.
To restore the entire system to full operation, it is necessary to renew the KEY SET (2 black keys + new CODE CARD)
and the instrument panel, and thus programming the immobilizer again.
Loss of one key

After purchasing a new key, perform the Reprogramming procedure (by entering the code shown on the CODE CARD)
with the new key and the remaining key.
Loss of both keys

After purchasing two new keys, perform the Reprogramming procedure (by entering the code shown on the CODE
CARD) with the new keys.
Renewal of the instrument panel

After purchasing the new instrument panel, perform the normal “Programming” procedure for the immobilizer system.
Renewing the instrument panel after renewing one or both of the keys
In this case, if you want the immobilizer to be fully functional, before programming the immobilizer, first renew the
KEY SET as well (2 black keys + new CODE CARD).
If the new instrument panel is programmed with the keys renewed previously, it will be possible to start the
motorcycle but the electronic code shown on the CODE CARD will no longer enable you to:
reprogramme the immobilizer system in the event of loss of one or both of the keys;
temporarily override the immobilizer in the event of a fault.
Special settings (vehicle model and units of measurement)

This function allows you to select the units of measurement displayed on the instrument panel.
The ECU automatically communicates to the instrument panel the motorcycle model and the units of measurement to
be used on the display: to change these parameters, go into the “Service Menu ” and select the SET UNIT function.
Now press button (1) in position B “▼” for 3 seconds.

Instruments
Each time you press the button (1) in position B “▼”, the instrument panel scrolls through the following sequence of
options, which flash on the display:
Units of measurement
STANDARD Speed Coolant temperature Counters
EU km/h °C km
UK Mph °C miles
USA Mph °F miles
CND km/h °C km
FRA km/h °C km
JAP km/h °C km
ECU ld. The instrument configures the unit of measurement
parameters in accordance with information relayed from
the ECU
If you press button (1) in position B “▼” for 5 seconds, the option currently displayed will be saved to memory and
the word “MEM” will appear. The new parameter setting will applied at the next Key-On.

Instruments
Moving the valve motor to facilitate cable fitting

With this function, it is possible to move the motor that drives the exhaust valve to facilitate cable fitting.
When renewing cables, if the valve motor is not constrained and the key switch is inadvertently turned to On, the
motor will turn over for a few seconds and stop in a random position. This makes it impossible to fit the cables.
To return the motor to a position in which cables can be fitted, it is necessary to use this function.
To display the function, go into the SERVICE MENU and select the “Set EXVL” page.
If you press button (1) in position B “▼” for 3 seconds, the system goes into “MOVE” mode and the motor can be
moved.
If you hold button (1) in position A “▲” the valve motor turns clockwise; if you hold (1) in position B “▼” the valve
motor turns counterclockwise.
To enable cables to be fitted, turn the motor until the display shows a value of “1.7 v”.
To exit this function, turn the key switch from On to Off.
Notes
If the battery voltage is < 11 Volts, the motor will not work when button (1) is pressed. In this function, furthermore,
no diagnosis can be run and engine starting is disabled.

Instruments
Programming the immobilizer

This instrument panel function enables programming of the Immobilizer System.
Notes
Only 2 keys may be programmed.
insert KEY 1 (one of the two black keys) and turn the ignition switch from Off to On;
within 3 seconds turn the ignition switch from On to Off;
within 15 seconds insert KEY 2 (the other black key) and turn the ignition switch from Off to On;
within 3 seconds turn the ignition switch from On to Off;
within 15 seconds, insert KEY X again (either Key 1 or Key 2) and turn the ignition switch from Off to ON.
If the procedure was successful, the instrument panel will display the message “PROG” steadily for 3 seconds before
returning to normal display mode.

Instruments
Programming aborted:
if you allow the 3 second countdown after Key-On or the 15 second countdown after Key-Off to elapse, or you make a
mistake in the programming procedure, the instrument panel will abort the programming operation and display the
message “OFF” for 3 seconds before returning to the normal display mode.
Important
During the programming procedure, the instrument panel, in addition to saving the key codes in its memory,
retrieves two “electronic” codes from the insertion of KEY 1 (the first black key to be inserted) and KEY 2 (the second
black key to be inserted).
If the immobilizer is reprogrammed, the key codes will be erased and replaced with the new codes of the new keys;
the two “electronic” codes, however, remain permanently in memory and cannot be deleted or overwritten.
The code on the Code Card corresponds to one of the two electronic codes and is used for Immobilizer Recovery and
Immobilizer Reprogramming.
1

Immobilizer and transponder
8 - Immobilizer and transponder

The Immobilizer allows the vehicle to be started only if the rider uses the special ignition key which
sends the identification code to a decoder housed in the instrument panel. The transmission-receiving
system is composed of a TRANSPONDER housed in the ignition key heads and an antenna in the
vicinity of the ignition switch.
Keys with transponder

The two keys contain the secret code used for programming the immobilizer and allowing the engine to
be started;
The transponder is fitted inside the key grip and consists of a power supply circuit, a ROM (Read-Only
Memory) and a transmission circuit. The transponder is supplied with power by the magnetic field
generated by the antenna which is enabled as soon as the instrument panel is switched on. Since the
transponder is very compact and needs no external battery power supply, it is moulded permanently
into the key grip.
Warning
The circuits in the key grips are not shockproof and may therefore be damaged by violent impact.
Immobilizer antenna
The antenna consists of a plastic-coated copper coil connected to a cable that is terminated with a
connector.
The antenna (A) is fitted onto the cover (B) of the ignition lock, which is specifically modified for the
purpose to create a seat in which the antenna is inserted and engaged.

Immobilizer operating principle

At key-on (switching on the instrument panel by turning the key) the decoder (incorporated in the
instrument panel) activates the antenna, which emits an electromagnetic field that serves to power the
transponder in the key grip. The transponder responds by transmitting the code that is stored on its
internal ROM memory, and which is picked up by the antenna and relayed to the decoder. Here the
transponder code is compared to a second code. If the outcome of the comparison is positive, engine
starting is enabled.
Warning light signals and immobilizer indications

Whenever the ignition key is turned from ON to OFF, the immobilizer system activates the engine start
protection system.
When the engine is started and the key is turned from OFF to ON, the system generates the following
signals:
if the code is recognised, the protection system releases the engine lock. When you press the START
-
button (C), the engine starts.
If the code is not recognised, the motorcycle diagnostics warning light (9) comes on. When you press
the button (1) in position A “▲”, the “Error IMMO” message appears on the display, along with the
-
error code denoting the type of IMMO error. In this case, turn the ignition key back to OFF and then
to ON again. If the engine still does not start, contact your dealer.

Removal of the immobilizer

Set the ignition switch to OFF.
Disconnect the antenna wiring connector (A) from the main wiring loom.
Unscrew the two nuts (1) and remove the keyswitch cover (2) with the immobilizer antenna (3).

Refitting the immobilizer

Apply the recommended threadlocker to the inside of the cover (2) in two points of the seat of the
immobilizer antenna (3) and install the antenna (3) in the cover (2).
Position the cover to the keyswitch block and tighten the nuts (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,


9 - Diagnostic instruments
For information on the “DDS” tester, refer to Sect. D 5, DDS tester.
Using a multimeter to check the electrical systems
Introduction
This instrument allows you to measure resistances, voltages, and current values. Multimeters can be
divided into two basic types: those with an analogue display and those with a digital display Units of
the first type are equipped with a dial and needle. The dial is marked with the scales to be used for
measurement of the various parameters. Digital units are equipped with a dial that displays numbers
corresponding to the values of the measured parameters. The type of measurement to be carried out
(voltage, current or resistance) is set by means of a selector or by means of several different sockets
in which to insert the two test probe connector terminals. In certain cases it is essential to set the full
scale value before proceeding. For example, in order to measure a 12 V signal, you need to set a full
scale that is close to this value (e.g. 15 V or 20 V). It would be illogical to set a full scale value of 10 V;
the same applies when setting current (Amps) or resistance (Ohms) full scale values. Sometimes the
instrument can set the required full scale value automatically. Never exceed the maximum value
allowed by the tester when measuring voltage or current signals.
Notes

The DDS tester (Sect. D 5, DDS tester) can perform the functions of a digital multimeter.
Voltage measurement
Voltage measurements must be carried out by connecting the terminals of the tester in parallel to the
load (e.g. to the wires feeding a light bulb or a relay, the two battery terminals, or the two wires
supplying power to a control unit). Voltages can be constant over time (DC voltage) or variable over
time (AC voltage). In the first case, it is important to consider the negative and positive polarity of the
application. It is therefore necessary to select on the multimeter the type of voltage you intend to
measure. (DC voltage is shown by the symbol = while AC voltage is denoted by ~).
Current measurement
Current measurements must be made by connecting the multimeter terminals in series with the load
(e.g. disconnect one of the wires feeding power to a light bulb and connect one terminal of the
multimeter to the free end of wire and the other terminal to the light bulb. When the lights switch is
set to ON, the bulb will illuminate normally and the tester will show the absorbed current, i.e. the
amount of current passing through the wire). Warning: connections in series must be made and
removed only when the power is switched off. Never attempt to make or break a series connection
when a device is powered. Always make sure that the connection in series of the tester terminals on
the electrical device is made is a safe manner in such a way that it cannot be broken accidentally.
Measurement of resistance values and electrical continuity

Resistance measurements must be taken only when the electrical device or section of the circuit is not
powered and isolated from the main electrical system (i.e. not connected to the main electrical
system). These measurements can be utilised to check the resistance value across several sensors. For
example, after disconnecting the electrical wiring to the rpm/ignition - injection system timing sensor
(on the camshaft drive gear) the relative internal resistance can be checked by connecting a
multimeter to its terminals. This makes it possible to check the electrical continuity of the winding
inside the sensor (a reading of infinite resistance indicates that the winding is interrupted). Resistance
measurement can also be used to check the continuity of sections of the electrical circuit or relay type
switches. For example, to check the condition of a section of the electrical circuit between two
connections, disconnect the connections and connect the terminals of the multimeter to the ends of the
electrical cable in question to check that the specified resistance value is present. If this value is close
to zero (i.e. lower than approximately 0.3 ohm) this means that the cable is not interrupted. Some
instruments feature an audible signal that is emitted when the resistance approaches a value of zero.
The same procedure must be adopted to check whether, for example, two contacts of a switch (relay
or manual type) are making the contact correctly when closed. In this case the terminals of the
multimeter must be connected to the switch terminals, checking that the resistance value is close to
zero (or listening for the audible signal) when the switch is closed. To check that the multimeter is
functioning correctly in “electrical continuity test” mode, short out the two test probes. The resistance
value indicated must be almost nil and the audible signal must be activated.
Protections and precautions

The multimeter is equipped with protective fuses and batteries. These components must always be in
perfect condition to ensure that the instrument is functioning correctly. When making electrical
measurements always use the maximum caution to avoid short circuits, which can otherwise cause
irreparable damage to the electrical system and constitute a personal injury hazard. All maintenance
work must be performed exclusively when the system is not live (disconnect the battery in advance).
NEVER connect the multimeter in parallel to make current measurements, and NEVER connect it in
series to carry out voltage measurements.

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Home

SUPERBIKE 1098 - Home Main

file:///C|/1098/wsm/usa/home.html [15-8-2008 12:07:41]

2 - Symbols - Abbreviations - References 5

3 - Hazardous Products - Warnings 8

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Identification data for the Superbike 1098 3

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2 - Starting - Engine warmup 5

3 - Routine maintenance table 6

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Adjusting the rear ride height 45

3 - Seat – seat cowling and side panels 23

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Removal of the side panels and seat cowling 25

2 - Hydraulic clutch control 7

3 - Front brake control 16

4 - Rear brake control 19

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2 - Front fork (1098) 12

2 - Front fork 1098S 25

3 - Hydraulic front brake 38

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Refitting the swingarm 63

6 - Hydraulic rear brake 65

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Refitting the steering head components 11

3 - Steering damper (1098) 14

3 - Steering damper (1098S) 17

7 - Number plate holder 39

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Refitting the fuel tank 10

6 - Airbox – Throttle Body 14

10 - Evaporative emissions canister 44

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2.1 - Lubrication system: oil pump 10

2.2 - Lubrication system: oil cooler 15

3.1 - Cooling system: coolant expansion tank 20

3.2 - Cooling system: radiator 26

3.3 - Cooling system: water pump 40

4.1 - Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments 49

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Checking valve lift 52

4.2 - Cylinder head assemblies: timing 57

4.4 - Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts 74

4.5 - Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms 86

5 - Cylinder/piston assemblies 108

6.1 - Clutch assembly: clutch 121

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Removal of the clutch 123

6.2 - Clutch assembly: right-hand side crankcase cover 134

6.3 - Clutch assembly: primary drive gears 141

7.1 - Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism 148

7.2 - Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts 155

9.1 - Crankcase assembly: external components 190

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Refitting the external components 195

9.2 - Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves 205

9.3 - Crankcase assembly: connecting rods 229