Table of Contents

Clarinet Repair

I Step by step directions for disassembling the clarinet 4

II Problems disassembling and removing screws 6
III Removing old tenon cork and pads 7
IV Cleaning the clarinet body 9
V Cleaning and buffing 9
VI Finding the right pad to use 13
VII Installing new pads 13
VIII Installing key corks and tenon corks 14
IX When and how to change springs 18
X How to install clarinet pads 21
XI Time to assemble clarinet 25
XII Crack and wood repair 30
XIII Play testing and tuning 30

Saxophone Repair

I Step by step directions for disassembling the saxophone 32

II Problems disassembling and removing screws 38
III Removing old neck cork and pads 39
IV Cleaning the saxophone body, keys and screws 41
V Finding the right pad to use 42
VI Installing new pads 42
VII Installing key corks and neck cork 42
VIII When and how to change springs 44
IX How to install saxophone pads 47
X Time to assemble the saxophone 50
XI Play testing and tuning 53

2
 Flute Repair
I
Step by step directions for disassembling the flute 54
II
Problems disassembling and removing screws 56
III
Replacing head joint cork 57
IV
Removing flute pads 58
V
Cleaning the flute body 59
VI
Cleaning and Buffing 59
VII
Finding the right pad to use 63
VIII
Installing new trill and 1SI finger key pads 63
IX
Installing key corks 64
X
When and how to change springs 64
XI
How to install flute pads 68
XII
Time to assemble the flute 71
XIII
Setting adjustment screws 74
XIV
Play testing and tuning 75

3
I Step by step directions for disassembling the clarinet:
A Upper Section (keep long screws in the keys and pivot screws in posts.)
1) Use flat nose pliers if the screw is stuck after unscrewing
2) Unhook all springs
a) remove trill keys
b) remove register key
c) remove D-A and E-B key
d) remove C#-G# key
e) remove D#-A# key
f) remove G# key
g) remove A key
h) remove F-C key

Upper section keys

From top left down the keys are: upper and lower trill keys, register key, E-B key and D-A key
From top right down the keys are: C#-G# key, D#-A# key, G# key, A key and F-C key

4
B Lower section (keep long screws in the keys and pivot screws in posts.)
1) Use flat nose pliers if the screw is stuck after unscrewing
2) Unhook all springs
a) remove ring key assembly
b) remove A#-E# key
c) remove both side levers
d) remove G#-D# and F-C keys
e) remove E-B key
f) remove F#-C# key
g) remove side F-C lever

Lower section keys

From top to bottom the keys are: ring key assembly, A#-E# key, side levers, G#-D# key with
the F-C key, side F-C lever, E-B key and F#-C# key

5
II Problems disassembling and removing screws

A In most cases the short pivot screws are not a problem

1) Make sure you are using a large enough screw driver
2) Screw driver should be the same width as the head of the
screw
3) It is important to have a long enough handled screw driver
4) Be sure to hold the screw driver straight and firm so as not to
damage the screw slot
5) If the screw is still seized try a penetrating oil
a) there are heat acting oils but it is easy to bum the clarinet
b) spray oils and rust inhibitors work well
c) try tightening and loosening the screw' slowly
d) let the oil soak in for at least an hour
e) if all fails you need to drill out and replace the screw

B Long screws present the most problem

1) Same as the pivot screws, be sure the screw driver
tip matches the head of screw
2) Work the screw slowly back and forth
3) Add oil if needed
4) Most times the screw is stuck in the key not the post
5) Let the oil soak in for at least an hour
6) If all fails you need to drill out and replace the screw

Screwdriver must be same width as the head of the screw

6
Ill Remove old tenon cork and pads

A Use a single edge razor blade to cut off old key cork
B Use a large jeweler screw driver to remove tenon cork
(Caution: careful not to damage edge of the tenon or the indentation)
1) May need to sand pieces of old cork off. Be careful of the tenon
2) Do not use chemicals or heat
C Use a medium size screw driver to dig out pads
1) Scrape out the old glue as best as possible with screw driver
2) If pad does not come out easily use a little heat
a) I like to use a low temp heat gun. Some like to use an
alcohol lamp
b) Be careful not to bend the keys

Remove old tenon cork

7
 Pad should pop out easily

Use heat to remove stuck pads

8
IV Cleaning the clarinet body
A For plastic clarinets many chemicals will damage the finish
1) Mild soap is the safest to use
2) I like to use a name brand glass cleaner and a paper towel
3) Use small circular brush or a tooth brush to loosen dirt
4) After cleaning wash with water
5) Some plastic clarinets are made of hard rubber and glass
cleaner will damage the finish. Test first on a small area.
B For wood clarinets with heavy dirt build up
1) Use Toluene Toluol (found at any hardware or paint store)
a) do not clean inside of body with toluol
b) clean inside with water only (may use mild soap)
2) After body is dry apply raw linseed oil
a) oil is for the outside only
b) place a paper towel under the instrument
c) apply heavy coat to outside body, barrel and bell
d) allow 24 hours for the oil to soak in
e) wipe the instrument completely dry inside and out
f) carefully wipe each tone hole by wrapping a paper towel around a
small screwdriver

V Cleaning and buffing

A Buffing the tenon bands
1) Place masking tape on the barrel, bell and lower section
2) Goggles and gloves must be worn
3) Use a jeweler’s rouge and buff lightly
a) I prefer to use a buffing rouge for plastic because it is less
abrasive and messy
4) Caution: Silver-plated or sterling silver should not be
buffed. Use silver cleaner and polish only!!!
5) After buffing clean off compound with toluol (caution do
not use toluol on plastic clarinets)
6) Remove tapes and wipe the sections clean

B Buffing the keys and posts

1) Caution: Silver plated or sterling silver should not be
Buffed. Use silver cleaner and polish only!!!
2) Goggles and gloves must be worn

9
 3) Remove and replace the screw after buffing each key
4) Buff with touch and the wheel rotating downward
5) The key should touch the center of the wheel in a
downward motion. You are buffing against the
wheels rotation
6) Hold the key firmly. It can get away from you
7) Most keys nave some form of plating. Do not buff too long or
hard
8) Add buffing rouge after each key. It will be messy
9) For buffing the posts try to touch only the top of them
(stay away from the springs and buff in the direction of the
springs)
a) do not remove the post to polish
b) if you want the post perfectly polished use car compound
and a rag cut thin
c) careful not to bend or damage springs
10) Clean all keys, screws and posts with toluol
11) Caution: Do not clean plastic clarinet posts with toluol
it will damage finish!!!
12) To reach inside of the tubes use pipe cleaners dipped in
toluol
13) Make sure screws fit inside of the keys with no resistance
a) if the screw gets stuck half way, the tube is bent
1) to fix this use a drill bit slightly smaller then the tube
2) place the drill bit in a vise
3) put the key over the drill bit and gently spin the key (by hand)
Keep checking the screw
14) Apply lightweight, all-purpose oil
15) Do not use spray lubricants or graphite

Goggles and gloves must be worn

10
Attach a 6 inch buffing wheel to bench motor

Apply buffing compound to wheel

11
 Buff key with wheel rotating downward

Clean screws and keys with toluol before applying oil

12
VI Finding the right pads to use
A All clarinets are different and the best way to find the
right pad is through the suppliers
1) Most clarinets can use a medium, double skin pad
2) Some Vito clarinets need a thicker pad
3) Most clarinetists like to have a top quality cork pad
a) this is for all the pads except the lower four pads
b) all octave keys should have a cork pad
4) They make a pad that is as water proof as cork and lasts
much longer but it is very difficult to seat
a) the name of the pad is Norbeck pad from the Feree’s companx
b) these pads are made of silicone and don’t form a seat. To install these
pads use very little pressure after heating
c) these pads arc a little tacky for the first month they are for students
and marching band instruments only.
5) Measuring for the correct size is simple
a) most companies measure in millimeters
b) all pads are measured from the inside cup diameter
c) the pads must have enough room to float freely in their pad cup

VII Installing new pads

A How to glue the new pads securely
1) There are many adhesives available
a) french cement
b) stick shellac
c) clear hot glue sticks
2) Dry fit all the pads and line up with the keys
a) be sure pad is not too tight in the pad cup
3) For me the quickest method is the glue gun
a) put a little drop of glue m the cup and press the pad evenly in
the cup

Dry fit pads first, then glue pad in evenly

13
VIII Installing key corks and tenon corks
A Install cork on the keys
1) It is best to use a piece of cork a little thicker then needed
2) Most clarinets can use 1/16” or 1.6mm sheet cork
3) The keys on most clarinets that need cork are:
a) trill keys
b) register key
c) D-A key
d) C#-G# key
e) D#-A# key
f) G# key
g) A key
h) E-A key
i) F-C key
j) Ring key assembly
k) A#-E# key
l) G#-D# key
m) F-C key
n) side F-C lever
o) side F#-C# and E-B levers
4) There are two different F#-C# and E-B levers
a) one has a pin that fits into another key and needs fish skin
to take out the play
1) fish skin is a type of plastic (similar to the pads skin)
b) the other type uses cork to raise the level and fits under the
matching key
5) The best glue I found to use is super glue gel
a) cut cork larger then the key
b) use only enough glue to cover the cork (glue on cork not key)
c) use a single edge razor blade to trim cork
d) sand cork to match key neatly (220 grit sand paper or emery
board)

14
B Installing new tenon cork
I) Measure the inside width of the tenon indentation
3) For most clarinets 1/16” or 1.6mm thick sheet cork will
work
4) Cut the cork with a new single edge raiser blade with straight
edges
5) Check to be sure it fits perfectly
6) Taper edge of one side of the cork to a 45-degree angle
7) Glue the clarinet first, then the cork (for the glue dries
faster on the cork)
8) Glue must be sticky on both surfaces before attaching
9) Attach slowly to keep the cork straight and firmly pressed
against the tenon. You have only one chance
10) Cut the cork flush
II) Wait about an hour. Clean off glue with toluol (careful not
to touch clarinet body)
12) Now sand the tapered edge first with 220-grit sandpaper
(paper should be cut same width as tenon)
13) Check fit to determine if additional sanding is necessary
14) If fit looks tight add cork grease and check again
15) You must remove the grease before any additional sanding
Use toluol
16) The final fit should be a little tight
17) All new tenon corks need constant cork grease

Be sure to cut the cork straight and not to bevel the edges
 Attach tapered edge up on the tenon

Wrap cork around and over tapered edge

16
I

17
IX When and how to change springs
A Flat springs (found on the A, octave and trill keys)
1) The flat springs are held on with small screws
2) Reasons for changing a flat spring are:
a) rusted and affecting the action of the key
b) action of the key is too soft or too hard
1) for action too soft try increasing the bend of the spring
2) for action too hard try decreasing the bend of the spring
3) to remove the spring it is best to turn the spring and
screw together
4) to replace with the same spring new you have to
measure both the length and thickness
5) using a thinner spring will lighten the action and a
thicker spring will stiffen the action

B Needle springs
1) There are two types of needle springs:
a) round springs which have no point and are usually stainless
steel
b) blue needle springs, which have points
2) The reasons for changing these springs are similar to the
flat springs
a) if the spring is rusted and not responding properly
b) if the spring is broken off
3) The spring should go through the post and the tip of the
spring be flush with the spring receiver on the key
4) The round springs are a little easier. They can stick out past the
receiver
5) To remove the old spring (wear safety glasses)
a) cut the spring almost flush with the post
b) using flat nose pliers press the old spring into the post
c) if unable to press the spring out cut it flush with the post
d) there are two tools that will help, one is called spring
punching/removing pliers the other a spring punch
e) line up the tip of the punch with the old spring and lightly tap
the spring through the post
6) To match up a new spring, measure the old one or try a
different thickness of spring until you find one that fits
firmly in the post
7) The new spring should go through the post and the tip of
the spring be flush with the spring receiver on the key

18
8) The back end of the spring needs to be flattened
a) lay the spring on a solid surface and hit the end with a
hammer
b) flip the spring over and hit it again
c) do not use heat as it will weaken the spring
9) Slide the spring into the post and with a pair of small
diagonal wire cutters press the spring into the post
10) You can use the spring punch pliers if you have enough
room
11) Make sure the spring is in tight
12) Carefully bend the new spring at the post so as not too
curve the spring
13) You will need a spring hook to connect the spring onto the
key
14) Adjust the bend to get the desired action

Be careful not to stick yourself with spring. Wear goggles

19
 Measure spring from end of post to end of spring receiver

Flatten back end of spring

20
I
I
I
I
I
I Spring should be flush with the post and receiver

I
X How to install clarinet pads
I A How to seat clarinet skin pads
I 1)
2)
Follow these directions carefully.
Be sure the key fits between the posts without any play
3) If there is any play you need to use a swedging tool
I 4) This procedure will stretch or lengthen the key for a tight fit
a) lock the end of the key that is short and gently rotate side to side
b) keep checking for a tight fit
I c) if too tight shorten with a steel file

I
I
I
I
I Make sure pad is glued before attaching to clarinet

I
21
 Place key in swedging tool snug

Gently rotate side to side

22
 5) Now that the key fits tightly we can seat the pad (for installing
skin pads prick a small pin size hole on the side of the pad)

a) to seat the pad place a pad iron (thin piece of metal) between the
pad and the clarinet and apply a little heat to the top of cup
b) 1 like to use a low temp heat gun with a 3/8” tip
c) It only needs a little heat to melt the glue and skin of the pad
3 to 4 seconds maximum
d) if you over heat the pad it will melt the skin off
e) immediately after applying heat, remove the pad iron and close
the key down firmly for about a minute to cool
f) if done correctly pad will have the impression of the tone hole
g) time to check for a good seal
1) attach the spring to the key
2) make sure screw is in not too tight and key moves freely
3) you will need a strip of cigarette rolling paper about a !4”
wide
4) place the strip between the pad and tone hole
5) press down lightly on the key and pull out the paper
6) there should be the same amount of pressure on the paper
all around the pad
7) if one side of the pad is pressing harder then another it is
not properly seated
8) if you need to adjust the pad
a) place the pad iron under the pad and
apply a little heat again
b) use a pad slick and shift the pad
c) hold the key closed and let cool
d) check the seat with the cigarette paper
9) If you overheat the pad the skin will get an air bubble
a) to fix this problem simply pierce a tiny hole on the side
of the pad

B How to seat cork pads

1) Cork pads do not use heat to seat properly
2) After pad is glued into the cup, press the key firmly for about a
minute
3) Check to see if you have a good seal with the cigarette paper
4) If the pressure is not even, use the pad iron under the pad and
apply a little heat and while hot, close the key firmly
5) Cork pads are usually easy to install
 Be careful not to bum the clarinet

Make sure pressure is even all around the pad

24
 C How to sand key cork to adjust pad height
1) Use a strip of 220 grit sand paper cut thin
2) Place the sand paper with grit side touching key cork
3) Close key down lightly and pull sand paper out slowly from under
the key cork
4) If possible slide paper side to side

XI Time to assemble the clarinet

A Upper section
1) First key is the E-B key
a) seat the pad (skin or cork)
b) check to be sure seat is perfect
c) connect the spring (make sure key moves freely without play)
d) make sure when the key is closed the ring is flush with the raised
tone hole
1) if ring is too high place the pad slick under the pad and
press the ring down (a little bit at a time key bends easily)
2) if ring is too low carefully pull the ring up with your thumb, (do
not use tools it is easy to damage the tone hole)
2) F-C key
a) trim the cork enough to fit the key under the E key
b) put the screw in tight with the key able to move freely
c) with the F ring down the E key should be closed
1) you will have to use a strip of 220 sand paper to sand the
cork under the E key
2) sand and check until the F key is flush with its tone hole
3) sanding the cork under the F key will raise the height of
the E key to the desired height
a) if the cork is too thick the F will sound flat
b) if the cork is too thin the action will be a little high
c) I like to keep the action low, then adjust by pitch
after clarinet is finished
3) A key
a) trim cork just enough to put the screw in
b) seat the pad
c) check that the pad is perfectly seated
d) the pad should open about 1/8”
e) this can be adjusted after clarinet is finished
4) G# key
a) put the key on
b) seat the pad
c) there is an adjustment screw on top of the key
1) if the screw is made of plastic, skip the next step
 2) if the screw has leather or rubber under it, skip the next
step
d) place a thin strip of leather on the A key where the G# screw
meets it
e) raise the screw for clearance
f) check that both A and G# pads close
g) lower the screw so it just touches the A key
h) use cigarette paper. It should have only a little resistance
i) with A key pressed down G# key should open with its cork
touching the clarinets body or its post
j) sand cork if adjustment is needed
5) C#-G# key
a) put the key on
b) seat the pad
c) pad should open about 1/8”
d) final adjustment after clarinet is finished
6) D-A key
a) put the key on
b) connect the spring (making sure key moves freely without play)
c) seat the pad
d) make sure when the key is closed the ring is flush with the
raised tone hole
1) if ring is too high place the pad slick under the pad and
press the ring down (a little bit at a time key bends easily)
2) if ring is too low, carefully pull the ring up with your thumb.
(do not use tools. It is easy to damage the tone hole)
e) final adjustments after clarinet is finished
7) D#-A# key
a) put the key on
b) connect the spring (making sure key moves freely without play)
c) seat the pad
d) sand cork for key to raise up pad
e) final adjustment after clarinet is finished
8) Register key
a) put the key on
b) seat the pad
c) pad must open at least 1/8”
d) final adjustment after clarinet is finished
9) Top two trill keys
a) put the keys on
b) seat the pads
c) pad should open about 1/8”
d) final adjustment after clarinet is finished
10) Bottom two trill keys
a) you need to remove the F key to seat third trill key

26
 b) seat the pads
c) pad should open about 1/8”
d) put the F key back on
e) final adjustment after clarinet is finished
B Lower section
1) Low A#-E# key
a) put the keys on
b) seat the pads
c) pad should open about 1/8”
d) final adjustment after clarinet is finished
2) Lower ring assembly
a) put the key on
b) connect the spring making sure key moves freely without play
c) seat the pad
d) make sure when the key is closed the rings are flush with the
tone holes
1) if rings are too high place the pad slick under the pad
and press the rings down (a little bit at a time key bends
easily)
2) if rings are too low carefully pull the rings up with your thumb,
(do not use tools it is easy to damage the tone hole)
e) sand cork to allow the pad to open about 1/8”
f) final adjustments after clarinet is finished
3) Connect the upper and lower sections
a) adjust the cork on the D-A key bridge
b) when B flat-F is pressed the D-A key should close with the same
resistance as the low B flat
c) use cigarette paper to check
4) D flat-B flat trill key needs to be checked for cork adjusting
5) Side F-C lever
a) put the key on
b) connect the spring
c) do not sand the cork
6) F#-C# key
a) put the key on
b) connect the spring
c) seat the pad
7) E-B key
a) put the key on
b) connect the spring
c) seat the pad
d) make sure that when you press the low E key booth the low E
and low F close with the same resistance (test with cigarette paper)

27
 8) F-C and G#-D# keys
a) be sure to connect the springs before putting the screw in
seat the pads
c) low G# pad should open a little less than a !4”
d) final adjustment after clarinet is finished
9) Before putting the side levers back you need to adjust the F-C
lever
a) sand the cork on the side F lever and the F key
1) (this is the most difficult part) if you sand too much there
will be play on the side F lever
2) sand the bottom side F lever just enough for the F key to
open a little bit more than 1/8” with no play between the
keys
10) For the last two side levers there are different key designs
a) one type has pins on the end
1) usually for this style no cork is used. A piece of cork
needs to go under the low E key
2) the cork will lower the E key to match the foot of the F
key
3) after all is set up, simply place a small piece of fish skin
over the pins and place the pins in their matching holes
b) the second style is a little harder
1) there needs to be a piece of leather glued on the low F#
and low E keys where the levers meet
2) cork is then used under the levers to lower the low F# and
low E keys
3) when the low F# and low E keys rest on the low F key’s
foot you did it correctly

28
Pin style lever

29
XII Crack and wood repair
A) Pinning cracked wood
1) make sure crack is closed
2) to pin the crack first remove any and all oil with toluol
3) drill a hole on an angel from one side to the other
4) space pins about a half inch apart
a) the pin is no more than a piece of threaded rod
b) after hole is drilled attach the threaded rod to a slow speed drill
c) using the drill spin the pin into the hole
d) cut the rod flush with the clarinet body
e) grind the ends of the pin below the surface
f) fill with wood powder and glue
g) I like to apply the glue first then the powder and finish with
more glue. Caution do not inhale the glue
5) after pinning scratch out any loose wood and apply a thin
coat of super glue into the crack
6) use wood powder and glue to fill holes sand the wood
smooth with 220-sand paper, then fine steel wool. Alway
sand with the grain.
7) clean body with toluol then apply oil
8) to get a nice finish to the wood buff with a clean wheel on
the bench motor

XIII Play testing and tuning

A) Play testing is the most important part of repairing any
instrument
1) Play the instrument first to warm the instrument up
2) Start playing chromatic scales from low E up
3) See if any thing sounds flat (a chromatic tuner is the best way
to be sure)

30
4) Before making any adjustments check the notes with the
octave key (if the lower register is in tune and the notes with
the octave key is flat sand or bend octave key to open more)
5) Clarinetists like to have the action (height of the keys) as low
as possible
6) If you are finding all notes to be sharp or flat adjust the barrel
height
7) If a note is sharp with and not sharp without the register key, this
is not normal (the notes have to be played in tune)
a) open G if flat (sand cork to raise open the E-B pad)
b) staff B flat if flat (sand or bend the register key to open more)
c) staff E if flat (open the D-A pad by sanding the lower section
bridge on the ring keys)
d) staff D# if flat (sand the key’s cork or carefully bend up the key
to open the pad more)
e) low C if flat (the lower section bridge on the ring keys need to be
sanded to raise its pad)
f) staff A if flat (sand both the A and G# cork)
1) do not touch G# set screw
2) make sure when A key is pressed G# is open completely
3) recheck with cigarette paper
g) If A is in tune the G# should be too
h) Low B, B flat and A should be in tune
i) Low A# if flat (sand the key’s cork or carefully bend up the key
to open the pad more)
j) Low G is flat (the F-C key’s pad needs to be raised by sanding F-
C foot or bending the foot down to allow the pad to open more)
k) Low G# if flat (sand the keys cork or carefully bend up the key to
open the pad more)
l) Low F# if flat Caution: This is not a common problem (sand
the low F key’s foot cork or carefully bend the foot down to open
the F#-C# pad this will force you to redo the bottom alignment
again)
m) Low E should always be in tune

31
I Step by step directions for disassembling the Saxophone:
A Palm keys first (keep long screws in the keys and pivot screws in posts.)
1) Use flat nose pliers if the screw is stuck after unscrewing
2) Unhook all needle springs
a) remove side high D key
b) remove side high D sharp key
c) remove side high F key
d) remove the lever for the alternate key

Side palm keys

32
B Pinky keys (keep long screws in the keys and pivot screws in posts.)
1) Use flat nose pliers if the screw is stuck after unscrewing
2) Unhook all needle springs
a) remove low E flat and low C keys
b) remove G sharp lever
c) remove low B flat key
d) remove low B key
e) remove low C sharp key

Pinky keys

33
 C Side, high F sharp and alternate F sharp keys
1) Use flat nose pliers if the screw is stuck after unscrewing
2) Unhook all needle springs
a) remove the three side levers and keys
b) remove the alternate F sharp key
c) remove the high F sharp lever and key

Side keys, high F sharp and alternate F sharp keys

34
D Octave key assembly
1) Use flat nose pliers if the screw is stuck after unscrewing
2) Unhook all needle springs
a) remove octave key assembly

Octave key assembly

35
 E Upper key assembly
1) Use flat nose pliers if the screw is stuck after unscrewing
2) Unhook all needle springs
a) remove the G key
b) remove the long screw
1) high alternate key
2) bridge key
3) B key
4) B flat key
5) A key
c) remove the G sharp key

Upper key assembly

36
F Lower key assembly
1) Use flat nose pliers if the screw is stuck after unscrewing
2) Unhook all needle springs
a) remove the long screw
b) remove the bridge key
c) remove the F key
d) remove the E key
e) remove the D key

Lower key assembly

37
II Problems disassembling and removing screws

In most cases the short pivot screws are not a problem

1) Make sure you are using a large enough screwdriver
2) Screw driver should be the same width as the head of the
screw
3) It is important to have a long enough handled screwdriver
4) Be sure to hold the screw driver straight and firm so as not to
damage the screw slot
5) If the screw is still seized try penetrating oil
a) there are heat acting oils but it is easy to bum the clarinet
b) spray oils and rust inhibitors work well
c) try tightening and loosening the screw slowly
d) let the oil soak in for at least an hour
e) if all fails you need to drill out and replace the screw

B Long screws present the most problem

1) Same as the pivot screws, be sure the screw driver
tip matches the head of screw
2) Work the screw slowly back and forth
3) Add oil if needed
4) Most times the screw is stuck in the key not the post
5) Let the oil soak in for at least an hour
6) If all fails you need to drill out and replace the screw

Screwdriver must be same width as the head of the screw

38
Ill Remove old neck cork and saxophone pads

A Use a single edge raiser blade to cut off old cork

1) You will need to sand pieces of old cork off. Careful not to
scratch the finish past the cork.
2) Do not use chemicals or heat

Remove old neck cork

39
 B Use a medium size screw driver to dig out pads
1) Scrape out the old glue as best as possible with screw driver
2) If pad does not come out easily use a little heat
a) I like to use a low temp heat gun. Some like to use an alcohol
lamp
b) be careful not to bend the keys
c) be careful not to bum the keys finish

Use heat to remove stuck pads

40
IV Cleaning the saxophone body, keys and screws
A Many chemicals will damage the finish
1) Mild dish soap is the safest to use
2) I like to use a name brand glass cleaner and a soft towel
3) Use a soft tooth brush to loosen dirt
4) After cleaning wash with water
5) To help protect the finish I like to use a name brand furniture
polish and a soft towel
6) Do not buff the lacquered finish will come off

B Cleaning the screws and keys

1) Clean all keys, screws and posts with toluol (toluene)
2) To reach inside of the tubes use pipe cleaners dipped in
toluol
3) Make sure screws fit inside of the keys with no resistance
b) if the screw gets stuck half way, the tube is bent
4) to fix this use a drill bit slightly smaller then the tube
5) place the drill bit in a vise
6) put the key over the drill bit and gently spin the key (by hand)
keep checking the screw
4) Apply lightweight, all-purpose oil
5) Do not use spray lubricants or graphite

41
V Finding the right pads to use
A All saxophones are different and the best way to find the
right pad is through the suppliers
1) Most saxophones can use a .185” thick pad
2) Some Yamaha saxophones need a .160” thick pad
3) Measuring for the correct size is simple
a) most companies measure in millimeters
1) pads are measured from the inside cup diameter

VI Installing new pads

A How to glue the new pads securely
1) There are many adhesives available
a) french cement
b) stick shellac
c) clear hot glue sticks
2) Dry fit all the pads and line up with the keys
a) pad should have a lose fit
3) For me the quickest method is the glue gun
a) puts a little bit of glue in the cup and press the pad evenly in
the cup

VII Installing key corks

A Install cork on the keys
1) It is best to use a piece of cork a little thicker then needed
2) Most saxophones can use 1/16” or 1.6mm sheet cork
3) The best glue I found to use is gel super glue
a) cut cork larger then the key
b) sand cork to match key neatly (220 grit sand paper or emery
board)

42
B Installing new neck cork
1) Use a piece of 3/32” (2.4mm) thick sheet cork
2) Taper edge of one side of the cork to a 45 degree angle
3) Glue the sax neck first, then the cork (for the glue dries
faster on the cork) make sure you glue the taper edge.
4) Glue must be sticky on both surfaces before attaching
5) Attach slowly to keep the cork straight and firmly pressed
against the neck. You have only one chance
6) Cut the cork flush
7) Now sand the tapered edge first with 220-grit sandpaper
8) Check fit to determine additional sanding
9) If fit looks tight add cork grease and check again
10) You must remove the grease before any additional sanding
Use toluol
11) The final fit should be a little tight
12) All new neck corks need constant cork grease

Attach tapered edge up on the neck

43
VIII When and how to change springs
A Flat springs
1) The flat springs are held on with small screws
2) Reasons for changing a flat spring are:
a) rusted and affecting the action of the key
b) action of the key is too soft or too hard
1) for action too soft try increasing the bend of the spring
2) for action too hard try decreasing the bend of the spring
3) to remove the spring it is best to turn the spring and
screw together
4) to replace with the same spring new you have to
measure both the length and thickness
5) using a thinner spring will lighten the action and a
thicker spring will stiffen the action

B Needle springs
1) There are two types of needle springs:
b) round springs which have no point and are usually stainless
steel
b) blue needle springs, which have points
3) The reasons for changing these springs are similar to the
flat springs
a) if the spring is rusted and not responding properly
b) if the spring is broken off
4) The spring should go through the post and the tip of the
spring be flush with the spring receiver on the key
5) The round springs are a little easier. They can stick out past th<
receiver
6) To remove the old spring (wear safety glasses)
a) cut the spring almost flush with the post
b) using flat nose pliers press the old spring into the post
c) if unable to press the spring out cut it flush with the post
d) there are two tools that will help, one is called spring
punching/removing pliers the other a spring punch
e) line up the tip of the punch with the old spring and lightly tap
the spring through the post
7) To match up a new spring, measure the old one or try a
different thickness of spring until you fined one that fits
firmly in the post

44
8) The new spring should go through the post and the tip of
the spring be flush with the spring receiver on the key
9) The back end of the spring needs to be flattened
b) lay the spring on a solid surface and hit the end with a
hammer
b) flip the spring over and hit it again
c) do not use heat as it will weaken the spring
10)Slide the spring into the post and with a pair of small
diagonal wire cutters press the spring into the post
11) You can use the spring punch pliers if you have enough
room
12) Make sure the spring is in tight
13) Carefully bend the new spring at the post so as not too
curve the spring
14) You will need a spring hook to connect the spring onto the
key
15) Adjust the bend to get the desired action

Be careful not to stick yourself with spring. Wear goggles

45
 Flatten back end of spring

Spring should be flush with the post and receiver

46
IX How to install saxophone pads
A How to seat saxophone pads
1) Follow these directions carefully. Use gloves
2) Be sure the key fits between the posts without any play
3) If there is any play you need to use a swedging tool
4) This procedure will stretch or lengthen the key for a tight fit
d) lock the end of the key that is short and gently rotate side to side
e) keep checking for a tight fit
f) if too tight shorten with a steel file

Place key in swedging tool snug

47
 Gently rotate side to side

5) Now that the key fits tightly we can seat the pad
a) 1 like to use a low temp heat gun with a 3/8” tip
b) it only needs a little heat to melt the glue 4 - 5 seconds maximum
c) immediately after applying heat close the key down firmly for
about a minute to cool
d) if done correctly pad will have the impression of the tone hole
g) time to check for a good seal
1) attach the spring to the key
2) make sure screw is in not too tight and key moves freely
3) you will need a strip of cigarette rolling paper about a Vi”
wide
4) place the strip between the pad and tone hole
5) press down lightly on the key and pull out the paper
6) there should be the same amount of pressure on the paper
all around the pad
7) if one side of the pad is pressing harder then another it is
not properly seated
8) if you need to adjust the pad
b) place the pad iron under the pad and
apply a little heat again
b) use a pad slick and shift the pad
c) hold the key close let cool
d) check the seat with the cigarette paper

48
Be careful not to bum the saxophone finish

49
 B How to sand key cork to adjust pad height
1) Use a strip of 220 grit sand paper cut thin
2) Place the sand paper with grit side touching key cork
3) Close key down lightly and pull sand paper out slowly from under
the key cork
4) If possible slide paper side to side

X Time to assemble the saxophone

A Be sure all tone holes are even use a large fine file to adjust.
Careful not to lower more then needed.
B Lower key assembly
1) Install the long screw for the Bridge key, F key, E key and D key
a) seat the pads
b) check to be sure seat is perfect
c) connect the spring (make sure key moves freely without play)
d) make sure when the F key is closed the Bridge closes with the
same pressure
e) make sure when the E key is closed the Bridge closes with the
same pressure
f) make sure when the D key is closed the Bridge closes with the
same pressure
2) G sharp pad
a) seat the pad
b) check to be sure seat is perfect
c) put the screw in tight with the key able to move freely
d) with the F key down the Bridge and G sharp pad all close with
even pressure

C Upper key assembly

1) Install the long screw
a) High alternate key
b) Bridge key
c) B key
d) B flat key
1) with the F key pressed make sure B flat key along with
the lower bridge key close with the same pressure
e) A key
1) seat the pads
2) check to be sure seat is perfect
3) connect the spring (make sure key moves freely without
Play)

50
 4) make sure when the B key is closed the Bridge closes with
the same pressure
5) make sure when the A key is closed the Bridge closes with
the same pressure
6) make sure when the High alternate key is pressed the Bridge
closes
7) Install the G key
a) seat the pad
b) check to be sure seat is perfect
c) connect the spring (make sure key moves freely without
play)

D Octave key assembly

1) Install long screw
a) octave key button should be flush with thumb rest
b) the lever for the neck has a cork under it which puts pressure on the
secondary octave key (under the G key lever)
c) make sure secondary octave key pad is seated properly
d) make sure pivot mechanism moves freely

E Side, high F sharp and alternate F sharp keys

1) Install alternate F sharp key
a) seat the pad
b) check to be sure seat is perfect
c) connect the spring (make sure key moves freely without play)
2) Install high F sharp key
a) seat the pad
b) check to be sure seat is perfect
c) connect the spring (make sure key moves freely without play)
3) Install the three side keys and levers
a) seat the pad
b) check to be sure seat is perfect
c) connect the spring (make sure key moves freely without play)
F Palm keys
1) Install high F key
a) seat the pad
b) check to be sure seat is perfect
c) with the alternate key pressed the high F key should be raised
1) with the alternate key not pressed be sure high F key is
closed
2) bend the alternate key to adjust keep the cork thin
2) Install the D and D sharp keys
a) seat the pad
b) check to be sure seat is perfect

51
 G Pinky Keys
1) Install low E flat and C keys
a) seat the pad
b) check to be sure seat is perfect
2) Install low C sharp key
a) seat the pad
b) check to be sure seat is perfect
3) Install low B and B flat keys
a) seat the pads
b) check to be sure seat is perfect
b) be sure when B flat key is pressed the B key closes with the
same pressure
4) Install the G sharp key lever
a) this is the most important key make sure everything is perfect
1) with G sharp key pressed G sharp pad raises
2) with G sharp key not pressed G sharp pad is closed
3) G sharp pad spring needs to open the pad with just enough pressure
4) G sharp key spring need a lot of pressure to close the G sharp pad
5) Problem some old horns have a poor design for the low C sharp
key is hard to press if G sharp key spring is too strong
6) With the low B, B flat and C sharp pressed the G sharp needs to
press at the same time

52
XI Play testing and tuning
A Play testing is the most important part of repairing any
instrument
1) Play the instrument first to warm the instrument up
2) Start playing chromatic scales from low B flat up
3) See if any thing sounds flat (a chromatic tuner is the best way
to be sure)
4) Before making any adjustments check the notes with the
octave key (if the lower register is in tune and the notes with
the octave key is flat sand or bend octave key to open more)
5) Saxophonists like to have the action (height of the keys) as low
as possible
6) If you are finding all notes to be sharp or flat adjust the mouth
piece
7) If a note is sharp with and not sharp without octave key, this
is not common (lower the next closest key)
8) Easy blowing horn verses a hard or resistant blowing horn is
not usually the horn but the height of the keys
9) The higher the keys the cleaner the sound and freer the horn
will play
10) adjust the height of the upper key assembly first. Then set
the height of the lower keys with the B flat lever
11) 1 found most saxophones keys are high action
12) If you lower a key until the sound changes that will tell you
the lowest the action can be set
13) The neck should fit snug in the body of the saxophone
when the neck screw is tighten (do not over tighten the
screw)
14) If neck is too lose you will need a tenon expander (see
Feree’s Tool catalog for expanders)
15) If the E is in tune and the D is flat this is simple to fix raise the
height of the low B and B flat
16) The G# key pressed and the F key also pressed make sure the G#
pad is closed.
17) Make sure the 1 over 1 B flat key closes with the same pressure
as the G# key

53
I Step by step directions for disassembling the flute:
A Flute body (keep long screws in the keys and pivot screws in posts.)
1) Use flat nose pliers if the screw is stuck after unscrewing
2) Unhook all springs
a) remove lower key assembly (4th, 5th and 6th finger)
b) remove B key (1st finger)
c) remove B flat key assembly (2nd finger)
d) remove C key (3rd finger)
e) remove trill keys
f) remove G sharp key
g) remove thumb keys

Flute body keys

54
B Foot joint
1) Use flat nose pliers if the screw is stuck after unscrewing
2) Unhook all springs
a) most flutes use only one long screw to hold the keys on

Foot joint keys

55
II Problems disassembling and removing screws

A In most cases the short pivot screws are not a problem

1) Make sure you are using a large enough screwdriver
2) Screw driver should be the same width as the head of the
screw
a) It is important to have a long enough handled screw driver
b) Be sure to hold the screw driver straight and firm so as not to damage the
screw slot
5) If the screw is still seized try penetrating oil
a) there are heat acting oils but it is easy to bum the clarinet
b) spray oils and rust inhibitors work well
c) try tightening and loosening the screw slowly
d) let the oil soak in for at least an hour
e) if all fails you need to drill out and replace the screw

B Long screws present the most problem

1) Same as the pivot screws, be sure the screw driver
tip matches the head of screw
2) Work the screw slowly back and forth
3) Add oil if needed
4) Most times the screw is stuck in the key not the post
5) Let the oil soak in for at least an hour
6) If all fails you need to drill out and replace the screw

Screwdriver must be same width as the head of the screw

56
Ill Replacing head joint cork

A Most flutes head joints are tapered

1) unscrew and remove end cap
2) push end cork assembly out through the other end
3) unscrew threaded top washer and remove
4) pull off cork no glue is used
B Replacement corks only come in one size
1) call supplier and give them the brand name to be sure

C Installing new cork

1) place new cork on the stem
2) screw washer on snug
3) use a little cork grease
4) put the assembly in from the bottom , with stem up
5) push assembly until the threads are from the top
6) if cork is too lose tighten washer more
7) if still too lose remove cork grease with toluol
8) screw end cap on

57
IV Removing flute pads

A Use medium size screw driver to dig out glued pads

1) these are the trill keys and 1st finger B key
2) If pad dose not come out easily use a little heat
a) I like to use a low temp heat gun. Some like to use an alcohol
lamp
b) be careful not to bend keys
3) The rest of the pads are held in with screws or snap resonators
(caution: some screws look like snaps)
a) to remove grommets or boosters use a medium size screw driver
b) open hole pads have grommets and the best tool is a flute pad grommet
pliers

Pad should pop out easily

Use heat to remove stuck pads

5«
V Cleaning the flute body
A For metal flutes many chemicals will damage the finish
1) Mild soap is the safest to use
2) I like to use a name brand glass cleaner and a paper towel
3) Use small circular brush to loosen dirt
4) Some metal cleaners work well

B For wood flutes with heavy dirt build up

1) Use Toluene Toluol (found at any hardware or paint store)
a) do not clean inside of body with toluol
b) clean inside with water only (may use mild soap)
2) After body is dry apply raw linseed oil
a) oil is for the outside only
b) place a paper towel under the instrument
c) apply heavy coat to outside body, barrel and bell
d) allow 24 hours for the oil to soak in
e) wipe the instrument completely dry inside and out
f) carefully wipe each tone hole by wrapping a paper towel around a
small screwdriver
C For sterling silver or silver plated flutes
1) use silver cleaners and polish only

VI Cleaning and buffing

A Buffing head joint, body and foot joint
1) Goggles and gloves must be worn
2) Use a jeweler’s rouge and buff lightly
a) I prefer to use a buffing rouge for plastic because it is less
abrasive and messy
3) Caution: Silver-plated or sterling silver should not be
buffed. Use silver cleaner and polish only!!!
4) After buffing clean off compound with toluol
5) finish with metal polish

B Buffing the keys and posts

Caution: Silver plated or sterling silver should not be
1)
buffed. Use silver cleaner and polish only!!!
2) Goggles and gloves must be worn
3) Remove and replace the screw after buffing each key

59
 4) Buff with a light touch and the wheel rotating downward
5) The key should touch the center of the wheel in a
downward motion
6) Hold the key firmly. It can get away from you
7) Most keys have some form of plating. Do not buff too
long or hard
8) Add buffing rouge after each key. It will be messy
9) For buffing the posts try to touch only the top of them
(stay away from the springs)
a) if you want the post perfectly polished use car compound and a
rag cut thin
b) careful not to bend or damage springs
10) Clean all keys, screws and posts with toluol
11) To reach inside of the tubes use pipe cleaners dipped in
toluol
12) Make sure screws fit inside of the keys with no resistance
a) if the screw gets stuck half way, the tube is bent
1) to fix this use a drill bit slightly smaller then the tube
2) place the drill bit in a vise
3) put the key over the drill bit and gently spin the key (by hand)
keep checking the screw
13) Apply lightweight, all-purpose oil
14) Do not use spray lubricants or graphite

Goggles and gloves must be worn

60
Attach a 6 inch buffing wheel to bench motor

Apply buffing compound to wheel

61
 Buff key with wheel rotating downward

Clean screws and keys with toluol before applying oil

62
VII Finding the right pads to use
A All flutes are different and the best way to find the
right pad is through the suppliers
1) Most student flutes can use a medium, double skin pad
2) Some Gemeinhardt flutes need a thinner pad
3) Higher quality flutes use a firm felt pad with yellow skin
4) Many flute players use cork pads on the trill keys
5) Open hole flute pads can be ordered direct from instrument
manufacturer
a) supply companies sell punches to convert closed hole pads to
open hole pads
6) Measuring for the correct size is simple
a) most companies measure in millimeters
b) cork pads and skin flute pads are measured from the inside
cup diameter

VIII Installing new trill and 1st finger key pads

A How to glue the new pads securely
1) There are many adhesives available
a) french cement
b) stick shellac
c) clear hot glue sticks
2) Dry fit pads first
3) For me the quickest method is the glue gun
a) put a little drop of glue in the cup and press the pad evenly in
the cup

Dry fit pads first, then glue pad in evenly

63
IX Installing key corks
A Install cork on the keys
1) It is best to use a piece of cork a little thicker then needed
2) Most flutes can use 1/16” or 1.6mm sheet cork
3) The trill keys may need thicker corks or use
nylon bumpers (bumpers only available through
flute manufacture)
4) The best glue I found to use is contact cement
a) cut cork larger then the key
b) for best results apply thin coat to the key and the cork
c) allow only a short time for glue to get sticky
d) if glue is too thick use toluol to thin out
e) if glue dries completely before attaching, apply second coat
f) after glue dries (about 20 minutes) trim cork flush with the edge of
the key
g) sand cork to match key neatly (220 grit sand paper or emery
board)
5) The thumb B flat key needs felt
a) use super glue gel to attach felt (I use a gel style super glue)
X When and how to change springs
A Flat springs (found on the A, octave and trill keys)
1) The flat springs are held on with small screws
2) Reasons for changing a flat spring are:
a) rusted and affecting the action of the key
b) action of the key is too soft or too hard
1) for action too soft try increasing the bend of the spring
2) for action too hard try decreasing the bend of the spring
3) to remove the spring it is best to turn the spring and
screw together
4) to replace with the same spring new you have to
measure both the length and thickness
5) using a thinner spring will lighten the action and a
thicker spring will stiffen the action
B Needle springs
1) There are two types of needle springs:
a) round springs which have no point and are usually stainless
steel
b) blue needle springs which have points
2) The reasons for changing these springs are similar to the
flat springs
a) if the spring is rusted and not responding properly
b) if the spring is broken off

64
3) The spring should go through the post and the tip of the
spring be flush with the spring receiver on the key
4) The round springs are a little easier. They can stick out past the
receiver
5) To remove the old spring (wear safety glasses)
a) cut the spring almost flush with the post
b) using flat nose pliers press the old spring into the post
c) if unable to press the spring out cut it flush with the post
d) there are two tools that will help, one is called spring
punching/removing pliers the other a spring punch
e) line up the tip of the punch with the old spring and lightly tap
the spring through the post
6) To match up a new spring, measure the old one or try a
different thickness of spring until you fined one that fits
firmly in the post
7) The new spring should go through the post and the tip of
the spring be flush with the spring receiver on the key
8) The back end of the spring needs to be flattened
c) lay the spring on a solid surface and hit the end with a
hammer
b) flip the spring over and hit it again
c) do not use heat as it will weaken the spring
9) Slide the spring into the post and with a pair of small
diagonal wire cutters press the spring into the post
10) You can use the spring punch pliers if you have enough
room
11) Make sure the spring is in tight
12) Carefully bend the new spring at the post so as not too
curve the spring
13) You will need a spring hook to connect the spring onto the
key
14) Adjust the bend to get the desired action

65
 Be careful not to stick your self with spring. Wear goggles

Measure spring from end of post to end of spring receiver

66
Spring should be flush with the post and receiver

Flatten back end of spring

67
XI How to install flute pads
A How to seat flute skin pads
6) Follow these directions carefully. Use gloves
7) Be sure the key fits between the posts without any play
8) If there is any play you need to use a swedging tool
9) This procedure will stretch or lengthen the key for a tight fit
g) lock the end of the key that is short and gently rotate side to side
h) keep checking for a tight fit
i) if too tight shorten with a steel file

Place key in swedging tool snug

Gently rotate side to side

68
5) Now that the key fits tightly we can seat the pad
b) to seat the pad place a pad iron (thin piece of metal) between the
pad and the flute and apply a little heat to the top of cup
b) I like to use a low temp heat gun with a 3/8” tip
c) It only needs a little heat to melt the glue and skin of the pad
3 to 4 seconds maximum
d) if you over heat the pad it will melt the skin off
e) immediately after applying heat, remove the pad iron and close
the key down firmly for about a minute to cool
f) if done correctly pad will have the impression of the tone hole
1) the yellow skin pads will only have a slight impression
g) time to check for a good seal
1) attach the spring to the key
2) make sure screw is in not too tight and key moves freely
3) you will need a strip of cigarette rolling paper about a 'A"
wide
4) place the strip between the pad and tone hole
5) press down lightly on the key and pull out the paper
6) there should be the same amount of pressure on the paper
all around the pad
7) if one side of the pad is pressing harder then another it is
not properly seated
8) if you need to adjust the trill keys and 1st finger pad
c) place the pad iron under the pad and
apply a little heat again
b) use a pad slick and shift the pad
c) hold the key close let cool
d) check the seat with the cigarette paper
9) If you overheat the pad the skin will get an air bubble
b) to fix this problem simply pierce a tiny hole on the side
of the pad
10) For the pads held in by a screw or a grommet there are
two methods for shifting the pad
a) using a pad slick to bend the key
1) place slick under the pad on the edge that
touches the tone hole first
2) press the key down firmly on the slick. Keys
bend easily
3) check with cigarette paper
c) you can use paper pad washers to shift pad
1) remove pad and place paper washer under the
low section of the pad (cut washer in half)
2) when replacing one pad you can use the
washers to raise the pad to the same height
as the other pads

69
 B How to seat cork pads
1) Cork pads do not use heat to seat properly
2) After pad is glued into the cup, press the key firmly for about a
minute
3) Check to see if you have a good seal with the cigarette paper
4) If the pressure is not even, use the pad iron under the pad and
apply a little heat and while hot, close the key firmly
5) Cork pads are usually easy to install

Make sure pressure is even all around the pad

Use the pad iron it will help prevent burning the pad

70
 C How to sand key cork to adjust pad height
1) Use a strip of 220 grit sand paper cut thin
2) Place the sand paper with grit side touching key cork
3) Close key down lightly and pull sand paper out slowly from under
the key cork
4) If possible slide paper side to side

XII Time to assemble the flute

A Foot joint
1) Assemble all the keys
a) seat the pad
b) check to be sure that seat is perfect
c) connect the springs (make sure keys move freely without play)
2) D sharp key
a) trim the cork enough for the key to open at least 'A inch
b) check to be sure that seat is perfect
c) there should be just enough tension for the key to close
firmly
3) C sharp key
a) trim cork just enough to put the screw in
b) seat the pad
c) check that the pad is perfectly seated
d) the pad should open about *4 inch
e) this can be adjusted after flute is finished
4) Ckey
a) seat the pad
b) this is the most important key
1) adjust C sharp key cork. When C key is pressed booth the
C pad and the C sharp pad close with the same pressure
2) to adjust height of the C and C sharp key sand cork on C
key
B Body section (loosen all set screws)
1) G sharp key
a) put the keys on
b) seat the pads
c) pad should open about !4 inch
d) final adjustment after flute is finished
2) Trill keys
a) before installing key check if key moves freely on rod
1) if key dose not move freely you need to disassemble trill keys
a) remove pinning needle from the end of the trill
keys

71
 b) use pliers to pull out pin
c) if pin is stuck use spring punch from underneath to push
out the pin
d) another use full tool is a key pin removing tool from the
Ferce’s Tool company
e) after pin is out you can disassemble trill keys
f) clean rust off rod. Buff and oil rod and keys

Trill keys disassembled

Remove locking pin from this key to disassemble

a) if key is moving freely put the key on

b) connect the springs making sure key moves freely without play
c) seat the pads
d) adjust key corks so the pads open % inch

3) Connect the lower key assembly (4th, 5th and 6th finger keys)
a) make sure all set screws are loosen
b) make sure all keys move freely if not you need to disassemble

Lower key disassembly

72
 c) only disassemble if needed
1) pull out end pin to release each key until you reach the problem
2) clean off rust and buff the rod. Add oil to rod and key
3) reassemble and replace pins
4) they sell replacement pin or you can use needle pins flattened to
lock in
d) after keys move freely install key assembly
e) seat all four pads
f) do not set adjustment screws until all keys are on

4) G key (3rd finger key)

a) put the key on
b) connect the spring
b) seat the pads (make sure both keys close with same amount of
pressure)
c) sand the cork for pad to open % inch
d) this can be adjusted after flute is finished
5) B flat trill key assembly (2nd finger key)
a) make sure adjustment screw is loosen
b) make sure key moves freely if not you need to disassemble

B flat key disassembled

c) only disassemble if needed

1) pull out end pin to release the key
2) clean off rust and buff the rod. Add oil to rod and key
3) reassemble and replace pin
4) they sell replacement pin or you can use needle pins flattened to
lock in
a) after keys move freely install key assembly
b) connect the spring
c) seat the pad
d) do not set adjustment screw until all keys are on

73
 6) Thumb key
a) put a piece of felt under thumb B flat, where it rest on the thumb key
b) make sure there is no play with the screw or posts, if so use the
swedging tool
c) put the key on
d) make sure flat spring is in position
e) seat the pad
7) B key (1st finger key)
a ) put key on
b) make sure key moves freely
c) connect the spring
d) seat the pad
XIII Setting adjustment screws
A Start with lower key assembly (4th, 5th and 6th finger)
1) Adjust set screw on 4’h finger key so both the 4th finger pad and
pad above (1 over 1 tone hole pad)closes with the same pressure
2) Adjust set screw on 5th finger key so both the 5th finger pad and
lover 1 tone hole pad close with the same pressure
3) Adjust set screw on 6th finger key so both the 6th finger pad and
lover 1 tone hole pad close with the same pressure

6th finger 5th finger 4th finger lover 1 tone hole

4) Adjust set screw on 2nd finger key so both the 2nd finger pad and the
pad above closes with the same pressure (B flat tone hole pad)

74
 5) Time to adjust bridge key. With the 4th finger key pressed all three
pads should close with the same pressure (4th finger pad, 1 over 1
tone hole pad and the B flat tone hole pad)
a) if the B flat tone hole pad closes with more pressure
than the 4lh finger pad you need to sand B flat key
assembly’s bridge cork.
b) if the B flat tone hole pad closes with less pressure than
the 4th finger pad you need to replace B flat key
assembly’s bridge cork with a thicker piece
c) with step 5 completed the 5Ih and 6th finger keys should
close the 1 over 1 tone hole pad and the B flat tone hole
pad evenly
6) Last key is the thumb B flat key. With the thumb B flat key pressed
both the thumb key pad and the B flat tone hole pad needs to close
with the same pressure
a) if the B flat tone hole pad closes with more pressure than the
thumb key sand cork under thumb B flat lever
b) if the B flat tone hole pad closes with less pressure than the
thumb key replace thumb lever cork with a piece that is
thicker
7) To raise up lower key assembly sand cork under lower key
assembly’s bridge. You may also have to sand thumb B flat
key’s cork.
8) If there is play on the 5th and 6th finger keys adjust their corks to
take the play out
XIV Play testing and tuning
B) Play testing is the most important part of repairing any
instrument
1) Play the instrument first to warm the instrument up
2) Start playing chromatic scales from low C and up
3) See if any thing sounds flat (a chromatic tuner is the best way
to be sure)

75
 4) Before making any adjustments check the notes in the low
register as well as in the higher register (if the lower register is
in tune and the notes in the higher register should also be in
tune)
5) Flutist likes to have the action (height of the keys) as low
as possible
6) If you are finding all notes to be sharp or flat adjust the head
joint
7) If a note is sharp with and not sharp an octave higher this
is not command (lower the next closest key)
a) open C sharp is flat loosen end cap and push stem in further
b) open C sharp is sharp pull end cork out a little
c) low C should be in tune if not adjust end cork
d) low C sharp is flat sand low C key’s cork to raise up C key
e) low D sharp is flat sand the key’s cork to open up pad
f) low D should be in tune
g) staff E if flat sand to open up 6lh finger pad
h) staff F is flat sand bottom of bridge key and thumb keys
i) staff G sharp is sand to open up G sharp pad
j) staff G is flat sand to open up lower key assembly
k) staff A is flat sand to open G keys
l) staff B is flat sand to open B flat key assembly

76