DRAPING TOOL & MATERIAL

A few basic supplies are needed for any draping project.

Draping tools are necessary to drape, measure, mark, and draft
designs. Keep all necessary supplies on hand and keep them
neatly together to use at any time.

Awl- A pointed metal instrument used for punching holes for

belt eyelets and other clean, sharp holesin fabric or leather.
18-Inch Clear Plastic Ruler- A 2-inch wide ruler divided into
1/8-inch grids. It is clear and perfect for truing and adding seam
allowances. Available through C-Thru Ruler Co.

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French Curve Ruler- An irregular curve with an edge describing
a spiral curve used to shape and curve edges of curved collars,
necklines, crotch seams, and armholes.
Hip Curve Ruler -A 24-inch ruler with a long, slightly shaped
curve that finishes with a strong circular shape. This ruler is
marked in both inches and centimeters, along with fractional
measurements. It is used to shape lapels, seams, flares, godets,
princess lines, and pant crotch seams.
Iron -A steam-and-dry iron used to smooth and aid in blocking
muslin,
Ironing Board A flat, adjustable board about 54 inches long by
15 inches wide that tapers to 6 inches at one end to provide a
stable, soft surface on which to iron or press.
L-Square- A metal or plastic ruler with two arms of different
lengths meeting at right angles. These rulers are marked in both
inches and centimeters, along with fractional measurements.
Muslin -An inexpensive fabric, on which the grain and
crossgrain are quite visible, used to drape garments made of
woven goods. The quality and hand of the muslin should
represent the texture and characteristics of the actual fabric
chosen for the garment design. Soft muslin will simulate the
draping quality of natural or synthetic silk, lingerie fabric, and
fine cottons. Medium-weight muslin will simulate the draping
quality of wool and medium-weight cottons Coarse muslin will
simulate the draping quality of heavyweight wools and cottons.

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Also, canvas muslin will simulate the draping qualities of such
heavyweight fabrics as denim,fur,and imitation fur.
Garments made of knitted fabrics should be draped in less
expensive knit fabric. However, the sample knit should have the
same stretch value as the fabric selected for the fin- ished
garment.
Notcher- A punching tool used to mark the edge of a sloper or
paper
pattern.-Pattern Drafting Paper Strong, white drafting paper,
with 1-inch grids of pattern dots, of a good quality and
thickness. Available in rolls of various widths. Pencils Soft 28 or
5H pencils used in developing muslin patterns.
Pin Cushion or Pin Dispenser-A sewing tool that keeps pins
orga- nized in a convenient place. The most common pin
cushion is in the shape of a tomato. However, other types and
sizes are available. Choose the pin cushion that will be easiest to
use.
Scissors and Shears -Shears are usu ally 4 to 8 inches long and
made of steel. Bent-handled shears are excel- lent for easy and
correct cutting A 3- to 6-inch scissor is smaller than shears. The
difference between shears and scissors is that one han- dle on a
pair of shears is larger than the other. The handles on a pair of
scissors are the same size.

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Straight Pins- Satin dressmaker pins #17 with sharp tapering
points that will not rust are used to anchor muslin or fabric to the
dress form while draping.
Style Tape -A narrow, woven tape that is used to delineate style
lines on the dress form.
Tailor's Chalk -A small piece of chalk, approximately 1 1/2-inch
square, with two tapered edges. It is used to mark lines
temporarily on garment hems and other alteration points. Tape
Measure A flexible, narrow,firmly woven,
60-inch reversible tape- marked with measurements indicating
both inches and metric terms used to take dress form, muslin,
and body measurements.
Tracing Wheel -A sharp, spike-edged, circular wheel with a
handle that is used to transfer markings from the drape to the
pattern paper.
Yardstick -A wooden or metal ruler 1 yard in length (36 inches)
that is marked in inches or metric terms. An aid for laying
pattern pieces on the straight of grain of the fabric or for
measuring hem lines.
Basic Front Bodice: Preparing the Fabric
1 Measure the length for the front bodice along
the straight of grain from the neckband to the
waist and add 5 inches. 1. 2.

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Snip and tear the fabric
at this length.Bust Lev
-el Line
2 Measure the width for the front bodice along the cross grain
from the center front of the dress form to the side seam at the
bust level and add 5 inches. 3.
4.
Snip and tear the fabric at this width,
then block and press the fabric
3 Draw the center front grain line 1 inch from the torn edge and
press under.
4 Draw a perfect crossgrain line that will represent the bust level
line. With an L-square ruler, draw a perfect crossgrain line in the
center of the fabric panel.
5 a)Measure the apex on the dress form the distance from the
center front to the apex

b). Measure and crossmark the apex this distance on the bust
level of the fabric.

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6 a. Measure from the apex to the side seam at the bust level on
the dress form and add 1/8-inch ease.
b. Measure and crossmark this side seam distance on the bust
level of the fabric.
7a. Draw the center of the princess panel line. Divide in half the
distance from the apex to the side seam at the bust level.
b. Draw a line parallel to the center front grainline at this
divided position, squaring down from the bust level, using an L-
square ruler.
Basic Back Bodice: Preparing the Fabric-
Measure the length for the back bodice along the straight of
grain from the neckband to the waist and add 5 inches.
Snip and tear the fabric at this length.
2 Measure the width for the back bodice along the
cross-grain from the center back seam to the
side seam at the underarm and add 5 inches.
3Draw the center back grainline 1 inch from the torn edge and
press under. Snip and tear the fabric at this width.
3 Neckline Crossmark Shoulder Blade Level
4 Crossmark the center back neckline position 3 inches- below
the top of the fabric on the center back grainline.

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5 Draw the shoulder blade level line.
a. Measure down 4 1/4 inches from the back neckline mark.
b. Draw a perfect crossgrain line, using an L-square ruler at this
4 1/4-inch position.
6a. Measure the distance from center back to the armplate at the
shoulder blade level of the dress form.
b. Crossmark this back shoulder distance on the fabric at the
shoul- der blade level line.
Basic Front Bodice: Draping Steps
1 Pin the apex mark on the fabric to the apex position on the
dress form.
2 Pin the center front grainline fold of the fabric
to the center front position of the dress form,
Anchor pins at center front neck and center front
waist. An addi- tional pin may be needed at the
bust level tape.
3. Put a pin on the center of the princess panel po
sition at the waistline on the dress form and use it as a guide for
the fol lowing steps.
b. Pin the center of the princess panel line of the fabric exactly
in the center of the princess panel of the dress form.

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c. Anchor pins at the waistline and the crossgrain Pin the front
crossgrain paral-lel to the floor (not the bust level tape).
5 Clip the waistline fabric at the center of the princess panel
from the bottom edge up to the waist seam tape.
6 Pin and drape the front waist dart. The excess faone that falls
between the center of the princess panel and the center front
waist position will become the front waist dart. Be careful not to
overstretch the waistline or the rib cage area.
a. Crossmark the princess seam at the waistline. Smooth the
fabric from center front to the princess seam at the waistline and
cross- mark. Crease the fabric at the waistline/princess seam
crossmark
b. Pin the excess fabric on the princess seam. The excess fabrics
creased at the princess seam cross- mark and folded toward the
cen ter front. Taper the dart to nothing toward the bust apex.
7 Smooth and drape the remain- der of the waistline. Smooth the
fabric across the waist tape until the fabric passes the side seam.
Pin at the side seam/waist corner. Leave a 1/8-inch pinch at the
waistline. Also, do not mold the rib cage area.
8 Pin and drape the side seam and the beginning of the
shoulder..
a. Smooth the excess fabric past the side seam. Be careful not to
pull or mold the fabric across the rib cage area.

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b. Smooth the fabric up and over the dress form armplate to the
shoulder. Create a 1/4-inch-1/4- inch pinch at the screw level
(mid dle at ridge) of the armhole. This ensures that the armhole
does not become too tight Pin in place Leave all excess fabric in
the shoul- der area.
9 drape the front neckline. Trim and clip the neckline at inter-
vals. Smooth the excess fabric around the neck area.
10 Drape and smooth the fabric over the shoulder/neckline seam
of the dress form to a point just past the princess seam. Pin in
place. Crossmark the princess seam and the shoulder.
11Drape the front shoulder dart The excess fabric that falls
between the shoulder/neckline and the shoulder/armhole area
will become the amount of excess fabric in the shoulder dart.
The larger the bust, the larger the dart; the smaller the bust, the
smaller the dart.
a. Crease the fabric at the shoulder/princess seam crossmark.
b. Pin the excess fabric on the princess seam. The excess fabric
is folded at the princess seam cross- mark and folded toward the
center front neck. Taper the dart to noth- ing toward the bust
apex..
12 Mark all key areas of the dress form to the fabric.
a. Neckline: Crossmark at center front neck and at
neckline/shoulder corner. Lightly mark remainder of neckline.

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b. Shoulder seam and shoulder dart: Lightly mark shoulder seam
and crossmark shoulder dart and shoulder ridge corner.
c. Armplate:
 Top at shoulder seam ridge.
 Middle at screw level.
 Crossmark bottom at side seam.
d. Side seam: Lightly mark.
e. Waistline and waist dart: Crossmark at center front waist. side
seam waist, and both sides of the dart.
Basic Back Bodice: Draping Steps
1 Pin the center back grainline fold of the fabric
to the center back position on the dress form
2 Align the neckline position mark of the fabric
to the cen ter back neck position on the dress form.
3 Pin and drape the back cross- grain line of the fabric to the
shoulder blade level on the dress form. Pin the armplate
crossmark 1/4 inch away from the plate lat the armhole ridge).
Distribute the excess ease along the shoulder blade level.
4 Pin and drape in the back waistline dart 7 inches long by 1 1/4
inches wide, as follows:

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a. Smooth the fabric toward the side seam until the fabric passes
the princess seam. Place a cross- mark at the princess/waist
seam.
b. Measure and crossmark the waistline 1 1/4 inches toward the
side seam from the princess seam/waist crossmark.
c. Measure and crossmark 7 inches up at the middle of the dart,
remaining parallel to center back (on grain). Refer to the
illustration.
d. Fold the back waistline dart in place. At the waistline, fold the
princess seam crossmark to the 1 1/4-inch crossmark. Taper the
dart to nothing at the 7-inch mark.
5Clip, smooth, and drape the waistline.
a. Clip the waistline fabric at the center of the princess panel up
to the bottom of the waist seam tape..
b. Smooth the fabric across the waist tape until the fabric passes
the side seam, Pin at the side seam/waist corner.
6 Drape the back side seam. Smooth the fabric past the side
seam and flat over the dress form. Be careful not to mold or
distort the back rib cage area. Pin in place.
7 Clip, smooth, and drape the back neckline.
a. Carefully trim the excess fabric around the neck area, clipping
at intervals

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b. Smooth the fabric over the shoulder/neddine area of the dress
form and pin in place.
8 Drape in the back shoulder dart, 3 inches long by 1/2 inch
wide:
a. Smooth the fabric over the shoulder seam, starting at the
neckline and moving toward the princess seam, and crossmark.
b. Measure toward the armhole 1/2 inch from the princess seam
at the shoulder (width of back shoul- der dart) and crossmark.
c. Measure down 3 inches on the princess seam from the
shoulder seam and crossmark.
d. Fold the back shoulder dart in place. Fold the fabric from the
princess seam crossmark to the 1/2-inch crossmark. Taper the
dart to nothing at the 3-inch crossmark
Mark all key areas of the dress form to the fabric.
a. Neckline: Crossmark at center front neck and at
neckline/shoulder corner. Lightly mark remainder of neckline.
b. Shoulder seam and shoulder dart: Lightly mark shoulder seam
and crossmark shoulder dart and shoulder ridge corner.
c. Armplate:
 Top at shoulder seam ridge.
 Middle at screw level.
 Crossmark bottom at side seam.

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d. Side seam: Lightly mark.
e. Waistline and waist dart:
Crossmark at center front waist. side seam waist, and both sides
of the dart.
Trueing the Basic Two-Dart Bodice Drape
Some designers prefer to transfer and true up muslin drapes on
the dotted paper. Others prefer to true up directly onto muslin.
This author recognizes that there is more than one way of
creating a design. Illustrations of steps 2 through 10 are
examples of the trueing process on the actual muslin drape.
1. Remove the fabric from the dress form and lay it flat on the
table. If you are planning to true up the fabric onto paper com
plete the following steps:
a. Draw in the straight of grain and crossgrain on the pattern
paper. Place the fabric on top off the paper, matching the
straight of grain and crossgrain.
b. Transfer all the fabric markings using a trace wheel.
2Draw a short 90-degree angle at:
a. Center front neck (1/4 inch)
b. Center front waist (1/2 inch)
c. Center back neck (1 inch)
d. Center back waist (1 inch)

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3.Draw in the four darts using a straight ruler.
a. Front waist dart: Locate the ten- ter of the dart at the waistline
crossmarks. At this center position. extend a grainline to the
apex. If necessary, recenter the dart until it is on grain. Draw the
dart legs 1 inch from the apex through the waist dart crossmarks.
The center of the dart should be on the grain.
b. Front shoulder dart: Draw the dart 1 inch from the apex
through the shoulder dart crossmarks
c. Back waist dart Locate the cen- ter of the dart at the waistline
crossmarks. At this center position, extend a grainline the length
of the dart (new vanishing point). Draw lines from the vanishing
point (point of the dart) througho waist dart crossmarks.
d. Back shoulder dart: The vanish- ing point of the back waist
dart goes through the shoulder dart crossmarks nearest the
neckline. This line will not be exactly on the original princess
markings. Measure down 3 inches on the vanishing point line
and connect the other shoulder dart crossmark.enter Front
4.Draw in the front and back necklines using a french curve
ruler, as illustrated. Be sure to blend lines smoothly into the 90-
degree angle at center front and center back necklines. Connect
the crossmarks at the shoulder seam.
5.Draw in the front and back shoulder seams. Fold the shoulder
darts into position. Using a straight ruler, blend from the

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shoulder neck corner to the shoulder ridge corner in one
continuous line.
6.Draw in the front and back waistline. Fold the waist dart
closed. Using a hip curve ruler. blend the waistline smoothly
from center front to the side seam. Then blend the waistline
from center back to the side seam.
7 Check the waistline curve. Pin the trued side seams together.
The waistline should be drawn in one continuous, smooth line. If
this is not the case, the drape is probably incorrect. Sometimes a
slight readjustment is needed to get a smooth continu ous curve.
This is done by lowering the side seam/waist corner 1/4 inch If
this does not solve the problem, check the drape for accuracy by
redraping and rechecking all draping steps.
8 Check the front to back waistline distance (waistline balance).
a. Measure from center front to the side seam.
b. Measure from center back to the side seam.
The front waistline should be 1/2 inch longer than the back
measurement. If this is not the case, readjust the side seam at the
waistline by adding and subtract- ing the difference.
9 Draw in the front and back side seam positions. Using a
straight ruler, connect the cross- mark at the armplate/side seam
to the side seam/waist crossmark.
10Add side seam ease.

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a. Drop the front and back side seams 1 inch. At the
underarm/side seam position, drop and crossmark the side seam
1 inch from the armplate/side seam crossmarks.
b. Add 1/2 inch bady ease to the front and back side
seam/armhole corner and crossmark.
c. Draw in a new side seam for both the front and back. Connect
the 1 inch crossmark with the 1/2- inch ease crossmark and draw
in a new side searn. Connect them to the original side waist
corners.
Designer's Custom Fashion Ease: in some years, fit is snug,
while in other years, fit is very loose. Because fit varies, the ease
amount may be less or more, depending upon the fashion ease of
the sea- son. Also, note that when trueing bustiers, sleeveless
dresses, and knits, the ease amount is not included. Refer to the
chapters on these types of garment.
Draw in the back bodice arm- hole. Using a french curve,
connect the following positions and place the ruler down, as
illustrated:
a. Shoulder back ridge corner.
b. Plate position at the screw level. Square and draw in a line: 1
1/4 inches down from the shoulder blade back crossmark
position. 1/4" in from Plate
c. The new side seam, at the 1-inch drop position.

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The back armhole line should blend parallel to the grain at the
screw level armhole mark. The french curved ruler blends at a
slight angle at the side seam underarm position. Only the front
blends in flat at this position
12Draw in the front bodice arm- hole. Using a french curve
connect the following positions and place the ruler down, as
illustrated:
a. Shoulder ridge corner.
b. 1/4 inch toward center front from the front plate position at
the screw level
c. The first side seam at the 1-inch- drop position. Be sure this
front armhole line blends in flat for 1/2 inch at the underarm
position,
13 Add seam allowances to all seams and trim excess fabric
14 Establish armhole notches. Place the armhole notches. The
front armhole notch (single) and the back armhole notches
(double) should be placed one- third of the armhole distance up
from the side seam (about 3 inches)
15 Balance the armhole.
a. Measure front and back armhole. The front armhole should
measure 1/2 inch shorter than the back armhole.
b. Correct front and back armhole. To make the front or back
armhole longer, reshape the front armhole by removing 1/4 inch

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at the middle of the armhole, shaping back to its original corners
at the top and bottom.
BASIC SKIRT DRAPING
Basic Front and Back Skirt: Preparing the Fabric

1.Measure the length (along the straight of grain) for the front
and back skirt from 2 inches above the waist to the bottom of the
dress form. Add 4 inches. Snip and tear the fabric at this length.
2.Measure the width (along the crossgrain) for the front and
back skirt at the hip level from cen- ter of the dress form to the
side seam. Add 3 inches. Snip and tear the fabric at this width.
3.Draw the center front and cen ter back grainlines on the fab-
ric 1 inch from the torn edge and press under.

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4.Mark the center front waist position. Measure down 2 inches
from the top of the fabric at the center front fold Pencil in a
waistline mark at this position.
5.Draw the crossgrains for the front and back skirt.
a. On the skirt front, measure down 7 inches from the waistline
mark. Using an L-square ruler, draw the perfect crossgrain on
the skirt front.
b. On the skirt back, measure down 9 inches (on the center back
grainline) from the top of the fab- ric. Using an L-square ruler,
draw the perfect crossgrain on the skirt back.
6.Determine the front side seam. Measure from center front to
the side seam (at the hip level) and add 1/2 inch for ease.
Transfer this measurement to the) fabric Using this mark, draw a
side sear perfectly parallel to the cen- ter front grainline.
7. Determine the back side seam. Measure from center back to
the side seam (at the hip level) and add 1/2 Inch for ease.
Transfer this measurement to the fabric Using this mark, draw a
side seam per- fectly parallel to the center back grainline.
8. Draw a secondary side seam line. Measure 3/4 inch toward
center front/back from the side seam on both the front and back
skirts. This line will be used to help. drape in the waistline.
Basic Front Skirt: Draping Steps

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1. Pin the center front grainline fold of the fabric on the center
front position of the dress form, matching the crassgrain of the
fabric to the hip level line on the dress form.
2.Smooth and pin the crossgrain of the fabric, evenly distribut-
ing the ease across the dress form to the side seam.
Be sure the fabric crossgrain is parallel to the floor. The side
seam of the skirt drape should fall exactly on the side seam of
the dress form when the cross- grain is placed perfectly.
3.Pin the side seam (below the hip level) to the dress form.
4. Pin the front 3/4-inch line to the side seam/waist corner of the
dress form.
5.Drape in two darts at the front waistline. The excess tab- ric
that falls between center front of the dress form and the pinned
3/4 inch mark on side seam will become the frant waist darts.
a. Drape in the first dart (the first half of the excess fabric) on
the princess seam.

 Crossmark the princess seam at the waistline. Smooth the tab

ric from the center front to the princess seam, Crossmark and
crease the fabric at the princess seam/waist
 Pin the excess fabric on the princess seam. The excess
fabric.folded at the princess seam crossmark and folded

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 toward center front. Taper the dart to nothing down toward
the hipline.
b. Drape in the second dart (the remaining half of the excess
fabric)
 Measure over on the waistline. 1 1/4 inches from the first dart.
Place a waistline crossmark at this position. Crossmark and
crease the fabric at the waist- line crossmark
 Pin and drape the excess fabric on the waistline crossmark.
The remaining amount of excess fabric is creased at the
second crossmark and folded toward center front. Taper the
dart to nothing down toward the hipline
Basic Back Skirt: Draping Steps
1.Match the back side seam at the hip level to the front side
seam at the hip level. The side seams should match and be per
fectly parallel to each other.
2.Smooth and pin the crossgrain of the fabric, evenly distribut
ing the ease across the dress form.
3. Pin the center back grainline fold of the fabric to the center
back seam of the dress form.

4. Drape and pin the back 3/4- inch line of the fabric to the side
seam/waist corner of the dress form.

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5.Drape in two darts at the front waistline. The excess tab- ric
that falls between center front of the dress form and the pinned
3/4 inch mark on side seam will become the frant waist darts.
a. Drape in the first dart (the first half of the excess fabric) on
the princess seam.
 Crossmark the princess seam at the waistline. Smooth the tab
ric from the center front to the princess seam, Crossmark and
crease the fabric at the princess seam/waist
 Pin the excess fabric on the princess seam. The excess fabric.
sfoided at the princess seam crossmark and folded toward
center front. Taper the dart to nothing down toward the
hipline.
b.Drape in the second dart (the remaining half of the excess
fataric)
 Measure over on the waistline. 1 1/4 inches from the first dart.
Place a waistline crossmark at this position. Crossmark and
crease the fabric at the waist- line crossmark
 Pin and drape the excess fabric on the waistline crossmark.
The remaining amount of excess fabric is creased at the
second crossmark and folded toward center front. Taper the
dart to nothing down toward the hipline
6 Mark all key areas of the dress form:
a. Waistline front and back.
b. Darts front and back.

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TRUEING BASIC SKIRT DRAPE
Remove the fabric from the dress form and lay it flat on the
table. If you are planning to true up the fabric onto paper,
complete the following steps:
a. Draw in a straight grainline and the crossgrain at the hip level
to match the straight of grain and crossgrain of the fabric on two
pieces of paper (one for the skirt front and one for the skirt
back).
b. Draw a side seam line.. Remeasure the hip and add 1/2 inch
ease. Transfer this measure ment to the paper. Draw a side seam
line at this position parallel to the grainline. (Do this for both the
front and back skirts).
c Place the fabric drape on top of the paper, matching the
straight grains and the crossgrain hip lev- els. The side
seamlines should match automatically.
d. Transfer the waistline, darts, and side seam markings onto the
paper, using a trace wheel.
2 Draw a short 90 degree angle at:
a. Center front waist (1/2 inch)
b. Center back waist (1 inch)
Draw the front and back waist darts.
a. Locate the center of each dart.

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b. Draw the center dart line. Using a straight ruler, draw a line
for the center of each dart parallel to the grainline. The length of
the front darts is 3 1/2 inches. The length of the back darts is 5
1/2 inches. The bottom of each dart line is known as the
vanishing point.
4.Draw in the outer dart legs. Using a straight ruler, draw the
outer legs of the darts from the varishing point to the waist- line
crossmarks.
5. Draw the side seams. Using a hip curve ruler, place the
straight part of this ruler to the side seam/waist corner and the
side seam (as illustrated).
6. Draw the waistline. Fold and pin in the waist darts. With the
darts folded in place, use the hip curve ruler and draw the
waistline
7 Check side seams,
a. Pin the front and back side seams together.
b. Measure the side seams from the hip level to the waistline.
These measurements should be the same. If they are not, adjust
the back waistline/side seam corner to match the front
measurement.
8.Check the waistline.
a. Pin the front and back skirt side seams to each other. Pin in
the darts.

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b. Check the waistline shape. This should be a continuous,
smooth, curving line.
c. Match and walk front and back. bodice waists to the skirt
waists when a bodice is being attached to the skirt. Waistlines
should be the same distance when all darts are folded closed.
9 Draw the hemline, with the side seams still pinned.
a. Measure and crossmark the desired length. Measure from the
center back waist down to the desired skirt length.
b. Square a line from center back crossmark, across the skirt to
center front of the skirt. This: line should be perfectly parallel to
the hipline.
Pin and Check Final Proof of Skirt Drape
After completing and trueing up the skirt fabric drape, the
finished design should be pinned together. This usually
represents half of the
design and is placed on the right side of the dress form. The
front drape should be pinned to the back dicular to the seamline.

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 BASIC SLEEVE BLOCK
Cut a piece of pattern paper 32 inches long by 24 inches wide.
Fold the paper in half lengthwise.
2 Draw the capline. With the fold in front of you, draw a perfect
crossgrain line 2 inches from the right side of the paper. This is
the top of your sleeve, or the capline.
3 Draw the wrist level line. With the fold in front of you,
measure down from the top of the sleeve (capline) the desired
overarm distance (size 8 is 22 3/4 inches, size 10 is 23 1/8
inches). Using an L-square ruler, draw a perfect crossgrain line
up from the fold at this level for the wristline.
4 Draw the bicep line. With the fold in front of you. measure
from the top of the sleeve (capline) the desired cap height (size 8
is 6 1/4 inches, size 10 is 6 3/8 inches). Using an L-square ruler,
draw a perfect crossgrain line up from the fold at this level for
the bicep line.
5Draw the elbow line. With the fold in front of you, divide the
distance from the bicep line to the wristline in half. Draw in an
elbow line 1/2 inch above this halfway point
6 Crossmark one half of the bicep circumference.
a. Determine the bicep sleeve circumference needed and add the
necessary amount of ease. Divide this amount in half (size 8 is 6
inches, size 10 is 6 1/4 inches)..

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b. Place a crossmark on the bicep line this distance up from the
fold of the paper.
7 Crossmark one half of the elbow circumference. a. Determine
the elbow circumference needed and add the necessary amount
of ease. Divide this amount in half size 8 is 5 1/8 inches, size 10
is 5 3/8 inches).
b. Place a crossmark on the elbow line this distance up from the
fold of the paper.
8Draw the underarm seamline. Connect the bicep crossmark and
the elbow crossmark. Continue this line straight up until it
crosses the top of the sleeve (capline) and down until it crosses
the wristline. This line represents the underarm seamline.
9 To prepare to shape the cap of the sleeve:
a. Fold the cap area in half from the top of the sleeve (capline) to
the bicep line
b. Fold the sleeve in half lengthwise. Place and crease the sleeve
foldline to the underarm seamline.
10 Prepare to draw in the cap shape by establishing a guideline
for the french curve. a. Put a crossmark on the bicep line 1 inch
in from the underarm seamline.
b. Put a crossmark on the lengthwise fold 3/4 inch above the
point at which the folds of the cap height meet.
c. Lightly draw a line to connect these two crossmarks.

27
11Draw the underarm curve of the sleeve cap. Using a french
curve and referring to the illustration, connect positions A
(underarm seam/bicep line corner), B (middle of french curve
guideline), and C (capline at lengthwise foldline)
All three positions must touch the french curve at the same time.
12 Draw the top portion of the sleeve cap. Using a french curve
and referring to the illustration, connect positions B middle of
french curve guide- line), D (crossmark on lengthwise foldline),
and E (capline at center sleeve foldline). All three positions must
touch the french curve at the same time
13 Cut out the entire sleeve. With the sleeve still folded in half,
cut out the sleeve following the newly shaped cap, the underarm
seamline. and the wristline.
14 Reshape the front under arm curve. Open the sleeve draft and
fold the unmarked underarm area in half. Remove 1/4 inch at the
middle of this lower curve on the underarm seamline, blending
to nothing at the lengthwise quarter fold and the underarm seam.
This side represents the front cap/underarm of the sleeve.
15 Create the elbow dart and wristline placement. With the
sleeve open, cut on the elbow line to the center foldline of the
sleeve. Also cut on the center foldline from the wrist level up to
the elbow level. Do not cut through entirely.
16 Form the back of the sleeve and the elbow dart. Lap over the
center sleeve line This will cause an opening at the elbow line.

28
Lap this center line until the elbow dart area is opened at least
1/2 to 5/8 inch.
Tape a small piece of paper underneath the slashed opening. At
this slashed opening, draw the dart 3 1/2 inches long and the
width of the opening. Fold the dart closed to determine the shape
of the dart and trim excess paper.
17 Determine the sleeve cap notches, Pivot the stitchline of the
sleeve cap into the stitchline of the desired armhole. Refer to the
pivoting steps on pages 125-126, for a clear example of pivoting
tech- nique and notch placement.
18 Add seam allowance to the sleeve.Refer to Walking the
Sleeve, to determine the ease amount. This ease will be
"crimped" and evenly distributed from the frant (single notch) to
the back notches (double notches). The sleeve is now ready for a
fitting.

29
 PLEATED SKIRT
PREPARING THE FABRIC-
1Prepare the hip yoke drape (see pages 200-262) Prepare the
dress form."
2 Measure the length along the straight of grain for both the
front and back skirts. Use the entire width of the fabric for the
front and another piece for the back.
3.Pin the side seams together allowing for the necessary seam
allowances
4Starting from the side seam, mark two times the width of each
pleat on both sides of the side seam
5Mark the distance of the space between the pleats. Contin these
measurements for the entire width of the fabric
6Pleat the fabric for both the front and back until the enture
width of the fabric is used
7Draw in a cosgrain 9 inches down from the top of the fabric
Pleated
Skirt with Hip Yoke: Draping Steps
1Pin the center front and center back grainline folds of the fabric
on the center positions of the dress form
2Align front and back crossgrains at the hip level. Pin the
crossgrain in place.

30
Trim the excess fabric at the yoke seam, leaving enough for
seam allowances Drape the yoke and draw in the desired style
line

31
Convertible Collar: Preparing the Fabric
1.Measure the width of the desired collar design (along the
straight of grain) and add 4 inches. Illustrated: approximately 6
inches.
2.Measure the length of the desired collar design (along the
crossgrain) from center back to center front and add 4 inches.
Snip and tear the fabric at this crossgrain length.
Illustrated: approximately 12 inches.
3 Draw the center back grainline 1 inch along the torn edge and
parallel to the grain of the fabric Press under
4.Draw a perfect crossgrain line 1 inch from the lower edge of
the fabric. Use an L-square ruler.
5.Draw a shorter second crossgrain line 1/2 inch above the first
crossgrain line, starting about 3 inches from the grainline fold
(see illustration).
Convertible Collar: Draping Steps
1.Drape convertible collar into the designed neckline of the
garment.
2.Pin the center back grainline fold of the fabric on the center
back neckline position of the dress form.
3. Align the crossgrain of the fabric on the neckline of the dress
form Drape the back neckline. Clip, smooth, and pin the

32
crossgrain along the neckline from the center back to the
shoulder of the dress form
5 Drape the front neckline. Clip, smooth, and pin the crossgrain
line from the shoulder to the front neckline of the dress form.
6 At the same time, allow the second crossgrain to drop and
shape onto the neckline at the center front position of the dress
form.
If desired, draw in the neckline at this time.
7.Drape the collar stand. Anchor a pin on the center back upper
fold. This is to ensure that the collar stand does not fall off of the
center back and stays perpendicular to the grain. Fold the fabric
over on itself (the desired width) at center back. The fold will
continue around to the front of the drape, gradually disappearing
at center front.
8.Clip the collar at the shoulder. To allow the collar to lie down
easily, clip from the outer raw edge up to the desired width of
the collar. After clipping, place another pin at the center back,
just below the neckline.
9.Trim and clip the fabric up to the desired collar width and
shape. The collar will automatically lie over the shoulder and
drape flat at center front point
10 Draw the desired outer edge styling. Starting at center front
neck, continue to draw the desired width, finishing at center
back.

33
11.Draw the neckline. Flip the collar up and draw the front
neckline from the shoulder to center front.
12. Crossmark a shoulder position notch.
13 True up all seams:
b. Transfer the collar shape to the other side of muslin.

a. Remove the collar from the dress form and true up all lines.
Add 1/4 inch.
c. Add a 1/4-inch seam allowance around the collar edges and
trim excess fabric.
14 Check the collar fit and outside shape. Return the trued collar
to the dress form and check for accuracy, fit, shape, and balance.
The drape should fit smoothly around the neckline without
gapping or stretching.

34
Mandarin Collar
The mandarin collar is generally # narrow, standing collar that
curves: around the neck smoothly Variations in the width of the
collar and how closely it is draped to the neckline will create
many different designs. It can be stiff and close to the neck for a
military effect, it can be a soft, loose band for a more casual
look; or it can be made with its opening in the back, creating a
narrow standing band collar. Also, a be collar can be developed
by adding long tie strips at the center front ends.
Mandarin Collar: Preparing the Fabric
1.Measure the width of the desired collar and add 2 inches. Snip
and tear the fabric at this width
Illustrated: approximately 4 inches.
2 Measure the neck area from center back to center front and
add 4 inches. Snip and tear the fabric (along the crossgrain) at
this length.
Illustrated, approximately 12 inches.
3.raw the center back grainline 1 inch along the torn edge and
parallel to the grain of the fabric. Press under.
4.Draw a perfect crossgrain line 1 inch from the lower edge of
the fabric.

35
5 Draw a second crossgrain line 1/2 inch above the first
crossgrain line, starting about 3 inches from the grainline fold
(see illustration).
Mandarin Collar: Draping Steps
1.Drape the mandarin collar into the designed neckline of the
garment.
2.Pin the center back grainline fold of the fabric on the center
back position of the dress form neckline.
3. Align the crossgrain of the fabric on the neckline of the dress
form,
4. Drape the crossgrain, Clip, smooth, pin, and drape the
crossgrain along the back neckline seam of the dress form from
the center back to the shoulder seam.
5.Drape the crossgrain on the neckline of the dress form to
center front. From the shoulder, continue to clip, smooth, pin,
and drape the crossgrain on the front neckline of the dress form.
Allow the second crossgrain to drop and shape onto the neckline
at the center front position of the dress form.
6.Draw the new front neckline from the shoulder to center front
7.Crossmark a shoulder position notch.
8 Draw the desired outer edge styling from center front neck to
center back in the desired width and parallel to the neckline.
9.True up all seams.

36
a. Remove the collar from the dress form and true up all seams.
b. Add a 1/4-inch seam allowance around the outer edges and
trim excess fabric. The center back grainline will be placed on
the fold of the fabric.
10 Check the collar fit and outside shape. Return the trued collar
to the dress form and check for accuracy, fit, shape, and balance.
The drape should fit smoothly around the neckline without
gapping or stretching.
Variation
For a band collar, prepare the fabric drape in the same manner,
draping the collar from center front to center back.

37
Turtleneck Collar: Preparing the Fabric
1.Prepare the dress form.
a. Place pins at the desired neckline on the dress form, b.
Measure the total desired.
b.neckline. Remember, the wider and/or lower the neckline, the
more exaggerated the turtleneck collar.
2.Fold a large piece of fabric on the bias (10 inches to 40 inches
Square.
3.Square a line from the fold twice the desired width of the
collar. Add 1/2 inch. This line should be placed as close to the
left end of the fabric as possible.
4.Draw a line parallel to the bias fold that is the length of the
neckline. Start at the line squared from the fold.
5.Square another line down to the bias fold at the end of the
neckline length.
6.Add seam allowances on all outer lines. Cut along these lines
and remove the excess fabric.
Turtleneck Collar: draping steps
1.pin and clip both layers of the fabric along the desired neckline
guidline.pin the centre back guideline to the centre back position
of the dress form. Keep the fabric folding.

38
2.align the neckline edgs of the fabric on the desired neckline
guideline of the dress form.
3.pin and clip both layers of the fabric until the entire desired
neckline is inclosed. Follow the desired neckline guideline the
dress foam.
4.match and pin the right and left centre back guideline from the
neck edge up to the fold of the fabric.
5.draw the entire neckline.
6.crossmark the shoulder position notches.
Fold the bias fold edge of the fabric back over on itself.
Covering the neckline.
8.turn up all seams.remove the collar from the dress form and
true up all seams.
9.return the trued collar to the dress form. Check for
accuracy,fit,and balance. The drape should roll and fit smoothly
around the neck

39
Shawl Collar
The back neck area may be straight for a higher stand or have
aslight curve for a little less stand The back neck shaping allows
the collar to roll the amount the designer wants
The shawl collar works successfully in every sort of neckline
from high neck to dramatically low- cut lines it is important to
take great care in draping and styling the selected shape to give
at polished and put-together look
The main characteristic of a shawl collar is that the lapel and
upper collar are cut in one piece with the garment. The collar
has a center back seam to allow the front of the jacket to stay on
the straight of grain. The length and width of the collar vary
greatly depending upon the intended effect of the styled jacket.
The outer shape of the collar may have a curved, scalloped, or
notched edge
Shawl Collar: Preparing the Fabric
1.Measure the length for the front and back drape (along the
straight of grain) from the neckband to the length of the desired
garment. Add 10 inches. Snip and tear the fabric at this length.
2 Measure the width for the front and back drape (along the
crossgrain) from center front to the side seam. Add 10 inches for
the front. Add 4 inches for the back. Snip and tear the fabric at
this width.

40
3 Draw the center front grainline 7 inches from the torn edge of
the fabric. Do not press under.
4.Draw in the desired extension line toward the torn edge and
parallel to the center front grainline.
Hiustrated: 3/4 inch.
5 Crossmark the center front neckline position. Measure down
10 inches from the top edge of the fabric on the center front
grainline and crossmark.
6 Determine the position of the crossgrain line.
a. Measure the distance from the center front neck to the bustline
level on the dress form. This is the neckline to bushjeve
distance.
b. Measure and crossmark the neckline to bust level distance on
the center front line of the fabric c. Draw a perfect crossgrain
line at the bust level line crossmark, using an L-square ruler.
7 Crossmark the apex, the side seam, and the center of the
princess panel line on the crossgrain line. If necessary, refer to
Basic Bodice, page 48.
8 For a straight jacket, draw in the hipline 14 inches from the
bust level line. Draw in a side seam the distance from center
front to the side seam and add 1/2 inch for ease. Refer to The
Basic Shift.

41
Shawl Collar: Back Bodice Draping Steps
1.Draw in the center back grainline, the back neckline
crossmark, the shoulder blade level, the side seam, and the
hipline on the fabric piece as illustrated.
2 Heferring to the design sketch completely drape the back to
match the desired c front. Refer to The Shits page 10% for more
detailed draping steps.
3 True up the back, add seam allowances, and return the drape to
the dress form
4.Mark all key areas of the back drape:
a. Neckline.
b. Shoulder.
c.Shoulder dart.
d. Armhole ridge.
e. Armplate at screw level.
f. Armplate at side seam.
g. Side seam.
h. Hem.
Shawl collar: front bodice draping steps
1.Pin the apex crossmark on the fabric to the apex position of
the dress form.

42
2 Smooth and drape the fabric from the apex over to the center
front of the dress form.
a. Pin the neckline crossmark to the center front neck of the
dress form.
b. Pin the remainder of the center front grainline to the center
front of the dress form, from the neckline down.
3 Align and pin the center of the princess panel line to the dress
form. Anchor pins on the side seam of the dress form
4.Align and pin the crossgrain at the bust level and the hip level.
Make sure not to distort or pull the fabric.
5. Drape the side bust dart and shoulder area.
a. Drape the shoulder area by laying the fabric smooth and flat
over the shoulder ridge.
b. Smooth the fabric over the dress form armplate. Create a 1/4-
inch-1/4-inch pinch at the screw level (middle at ridge) of the
armhole. This is to ensure the armhole does not became too
tight. Pin in place.
c. Unpin the bust level line and allow the excess fabric to fall
below the crossgrain line. Fold the excess fabric up and into the
bustline level line. This creates a side bust dart, using the excess
fabric that is falling below the bust level line.
d. Allow all fabric below the dart and the bustline to hang
loosely to the hip (plumb).

43
6 Clip the fabric, starting at the back princess area into the
neckline/shoulder corner. Anchor a pin in the neckline/shoulder
corner.
7 Pin the breakpoint, grainline, and extension lines.
a. Place a pin at the desired breakpoint position (depth of the
finished neckline) on the extension line
b. Pin the grainline and the extension line to the dress form from
this breakpoint position down to the bottom of the drape
c. Remove the pins above the breakpoint pin
8.Slash the fabric at the breakpoint from the outer edge of the
fabric into the breakpoint pin
9.Trim the excess fabric from the breakpoint pin down to the
bottom of the fabric
10. Fold in a lepel/collar roll line by turning back the fabric in
the front of the garment. Start at the extension breakpoint pin
and finish at the neckliner shoulder pin.
11.Clip, pin, smooth, and drape the fabric around the back
neckline.
a. Lift the lapel area up, starting from the shouldermeckline pin.
b. Clip pin and drape the back lapel area around the back
neckline of the dress form.
c. Mark the finished neckline.

44
12. Anchor a pin at the center back upper fold. This is to ensure
that the collar stand does not fall off from the center back. Fold
the fabric over this upper fold pin to create a collar stand at
center back. Pin in place.
13.Clip the outer edge of the fabric up to the desired collar
width.
14.Draw the desired outer edge of the collar, starting at the
breakpoint pin. Finish drawing at the center back of the collar.
15.Trim the excess fabric, leaving enough for seam allowances.
16. Drape a fisheye dart. Flip the collar up and drape a fisheye
dart on the roll line of the collar. The dart should start at the
neckline/shoulder corner and drape to the center front of the
jacket.
17 Mark all key areas of the dress form on the front and back
drape:
a. Shoulders.
b. Fisheye dart.
c. Armplate:
d. Shoulder seam at ridge
e. Plate at screw level
f. Plate at underarm/side seam
d. Side seam and dart.
e. Bottom of desired design or waistline.

45
18.True up all seams. Remove the front and back drape from
the dress form and true up all seams. Add 1/4-inch seam
allowances at the back neckline and the outer edges of the
collar. Add a 1/2-inch seam allowance to all other seams.
19.Check the drape. Pin the front and back to each other.
Return the drape and collar to the dress form and check for
accuracy, fit, and balance. The collar should fit smoothly
around the neckline without gapping or stretching. Also, the
entire bodice drape should fit all areas of the dress form
correctly.

46
Draping of Torso block using following features:
Princess Bodice: Preparing the Fabric
1.Measure the length for front and back panel (along the the
straight of grain) from the neckband to the waist and add 5
inches
Snip and tear the fabric at this length
2 Divide the fabric piece in half. Fold the fabric from selvage to
selvage. Snip and tear the fabric piece in half lengthwise
Use one piece for the front panels and the other piece for the
back
3.Measure the width for the center front panel (along the
dougrain) from the center front of the dress form to 4 inches past
the apex. Using one of the fabric pieces prepared in step 2. unip
and tear the fabric at this width. Use the remaining front fabric
piece for the side front panel.
4.Measure the width for the center back panel. Measure from the
center back of the dress form to the back princess seam at the
shoulder blade level and add 4 inches.
Using the other fabric piece prepared in step 2, snip and tear the
fabric this width.
Use the remaining back fabric piece for the side back panel.

47
Draw in the grainlines on the front panels.
a. Draw the grainline for the center front panel 1 inch from
the torn edge and press under.
b. Draw the grainline for the side front panel at the center of
the
fabric piece.
6 Draw the crossgrain lines for the front and side front panels in
the center of both panels (crosswise)
7. Crossmark the apex.
a. Measure the dress form from center front to the apex.
b. Crossmark the apex this distance on the center front panel on
the crossgrain line.
8.Draw in the grainlines on the back panels.
a. Draw the grainline for the center back panel 1 inch from the
torn edge. Press under.
b. Draw the grainline for the side back panel in the center of the
fabric piece (lengthwise).
9. Draw the crossgrain line for both back panels 8 inches from
the top of the fabric edge.
Center Front Princess Panel: Draping Steps
1.Pin the apex crossmark on the fabric to the apex position on
the dress form.

48
2. Pin the center front grainline fold of the fabric to the center
position of the dress form.
Anchor pins at center front neck and center front waist. An
additional pin may be needed at the bust level tape.
3.Drape the neckline by trimming the excess fabric around the
neck area and dipping at interval. Smooth the neckline in place.
4.Drape and smooth the fabric over the shoulder seam of the
dress form to just past the princess seam. Pin in place.
5.Drape and smooth the waistline across the waistline tape from
center front to just past the princess seam. Pin in place.
6.Mark all key areas of the dress form on the center front panel.
a. Neckline: Lightly mark
b. Shoulder seam: Lightly mask
c. Waistline: Lightly mark
d. Princess seam and style line: Crossmark 2 inches above and
below apex
7.True up center front panel. Add seam allowances and trim all
excess fabric. Place panel back on the dress form.
Side Front Princess Panel: Draping Steps
1.Pin the grainline of the side front panel to the center of the
front princess panel on the dress form

49
2.Match the crossgrain of the side front panel to the crossgrain
of the center front panel. Anchor pins on the crossgrain at the
bust level. Place another anchor pin on the straight of grain at
the waistline.
3 Clip the waistline at the center of the front princess panel up to
the bottom of the waist seam tape
4.Clip Drape and pin the waistline in place. From the grainline
of the front panel, smooth the fabric across the waist seam tape
toward the side seam. Also, drape toward the princess seam. Pin.
5.Smooth and pin the side seam In place. From the grainline of
the side front panel, smooth the fabric past the side seam of the
dress form. Do not allow the grainline to slip out of position. Pin
the side seam in place.
6.Continue to smooth the fabric flat over the armplate. Create a
1/4-inch-1/4-inch pinch at the mid- armhole area ridge.
7.Drape the shoulder by carefully smoothing the excess fabric
above the bust level up and over the shoulder of the dress form.
8 Smooth and pin the princess seam in place. From the grainline
of the side front panel, smooth the fabric over the princess seam
between the crossmarks.
9.Mark all key areas of the dress form on the side front panel:
a. Princess seam and style line crossmarks: Match to center front
panel crossmarks

50
b. Armplate: Shoulder seam at ridge
Middle of plate at screw level (1/4-inch-1/4-inch pinchi Bottom
of plate at side seam
c. Shoulder seam.
d. Side seam.
e. Waistline.
10. True up all the lines. Remove the side front panel from the
dress form and true up all the lines, Add seam allowances and
the front armhole notch
Trim excess fabric Pin to front panel. Place the drape on the
dress form to check seams, crossmarks, fit, and balance.
Center Back Princess Panel: Draping Step
1.Pin the center back grainline fold of the fabric to the center
back position of the dress form.
2 Align and pin the crossgrain of the fabric to the shoulder blade
level of the dress form.
3.Drape and smooth the back waistline from center back to just
past the princess seam. Pin the waistline in place.
4.Drape and smooth the back neckline. Carefully trim the excess
fabric around the neck area and clip at intervals. Smooth the
fabric around the neckline.

51
5.Smooth the fabric over the shoulder of the dress form and pin
in place.
6.Mark all key areas of the dress form on the center back panet
a. Neckline.
b. Waistline.
c.Shoulder seam.
d. Back princess seam and style line crossmarks: Double
crossmarks are used in the back.
7.True up all lines. Remove the center back panel drape from the
dress form. True up all lines add seam allowances, and trim all
excess fabric. Place this center back panel drape on the dress
form.
Side back princess panel: draping steps
1. Pin the grainline of the side back panel to the center of the
back princess panel on the dress form.
2. Match all crossgrains at the shoulder blade level.
3. Clip the waistline at the side back panel up to the bottom of
the waist seam tape.
4. Drape and pin the waistline in place. From the grainline of the
back panel, smooth the fabric across the waist seam tape toward
the side seam. Also, drape toward the princess seam.

52
5. Drape the shoulder by smoothing the excess fatic from above
the shoulder blade level up and over the shoulder seam of the
dress form NOTE: The grainne will be angled toward the
neckline (over the crossgrain).
6. Smooth and pin the side seam In place. From the grainline of
the ude back panel, smooth the fabric past the side seam of the
dress form. Do not allow the grainline to slip out of position Pin
the aide seam in place
7 Drape and pin the princess seam in place. From the graintine
of the ude back panel. smooth the fabric past the princess seam
of dress form Do not allow the grainline to slip out of position
Pin the princess seam.
8.Mark all key areas of the dress form on the side back panel: a.
Princess seam and style line crossmarks: Match to center back
panel double crossmarks.
b. Armplate:
 Shoulder seam at ridge
 Middle of plate at screw level
 Bottom of plate at side seam
c. Shoulder seam.
d. Side seam,
e. Waistline.

53
9.True up all lines. Remove the drape from the dress form True
up all lines, add seam allowances and back armhole notches, and
trim all excess fabric. Pin the entire garment together and place
the drape on the dress form. Check for accuracy, fit, and hang.

54
Torso Princess Bodice
A torso princess bodice is styled with a vertical seams rather
than darts. This divides the bodice front and back into two
panels it also has no waist fitting seam allowing for long vertical
slimming lines. Once sewn.
the princess bodice represents the same shape as the basic torso
bodice, or dress, but with vertical seams The torso princess
drape offers versatility to an important classic and creates a
crisp, longer, and
slimmer look Fashionable tops for suits, dresses, or sportswear
separates may be designed in this length and shape. Many
designers use this classic pattern to create a semational body fit
and look.
Torso Princess Bodice: Preparing the Fabric
1.Measure the length for the front and back panels (along the
straight of grain) from the neckband to the hip area and add 5
inches. Snip and tear the fabric at this length.
2.Divide the fabric piece in half. Fold the fabric from selvage to
selvage. Snip and tear the fabric piece in half lengthwise.
Use one piece for the front panels and the other piece for the
back panels.

55
Front draping step

56
57
basic back draping steps

58
59
60
basic skirt draping steps

61
62
63
64
Basic sleeve draping steps

65
66
Trueing the basic bodice drape

67
Convertible collar: draping steps

68
Madarian collar draping step

69
Turtleneck collar:draping steps

70
COWL NECKLINE
1. Prepare the dress form. Determine the desired neckline depth. Place a
pin on the dress form at this neckline position. Also, place a pin on each
shoulder seam the width of the fabric.
2. Drape the center front neckline. Place the folded edge of the fabric on
the dress form. 3. Match the center front bias line of the fabric to the
center front neckline pin on the dress form.
4. Drape and pin the shoulders into position by holding the
fabric at each end of the fold line of the fabric edge.
5. Swing the fabric up and onto the shoulder. Allow the neckline cowl to
fall in gently. Be sure to keep the center front bias line on the center
front ofthe dress form.
6. Lift and pleat each shoulder to form additional desired cowl Drapers.
BASIC NECKLINE COWL: PREPARING THE FABRIC
1. Measure and cut a perfect square of soft fabric wide enough for an
entire front or entire back bodice.
2. Draw a true bias line diagonally across the piece ofa fabric. 3.
Determine the neckline edge and facing area. Turn a
corner of the fabric deep enough to reach from one shoulder pin through
the neckline pin and over to the other shoulder pin. Add 3 inches for
ease and press in place.
BASIC NECKLINE COWL: DRAPING STEPS
1. Prepare the dress form. Determine the desired neckline depth. Place a
pin on the dress form at this neckline position. Also, place a pin on each
shoulder seam the width of the

71
2. Drape the center front neckline. Place the folded edge of the fabric on
the dress form.
3. Match the center front bias line of the fabric to the center front
neckline pin on the dress form.
4. Drape and pin the shoulders into position by holding the fabric at each
end of the folding of the fabric edge. Sewing the fabric up and onto the
shoulders. Allow the neckline cowl to fall in gently. Be sure to keep the
center front bias line on the center front of the dress form.
5. Lift and pleat each shoulder to form additional desired cowl drapes.
6. Clip the waistline fabric. Pin and drape the waistline, side seam, and
armhole areas.
7. Mark all key areas of the dress form on one side of the drape only.
a. Shoulder seam
b. Side seam c. Waistline d. Armhole area and desired armhole shape 8.
True up the front cowl drape.
a. Fold the drape on the center front bias fold.
b. True up all seams and add seam allowance.
c. At the neckline fold, determine the width of the
bodice drape folded. Trace all necessary markings from the trued side to
the unmarked side. Trim excess fabric.
d. Place the drape back on the dress form. Check for accuracy and make
all necessary corrections.
9. Drape a back bodice design. Refer to one of the basic back drapes to
correctly drape the back bodice design.

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TORSO PRINCESS BODICE: PREPARING
THR FABRIC
1. Measure the length for the front and back panels
from the neckband to the hip area and add 5 inch.
Snip and tear the fabric at this length.
2. Divide the fabric piece in half. Fold the fabric
from selvage to selvage. Snip and tear the fabric
piece in half lengthwise. Use one piece for the front
panels and the other piece for the back panels. 3.
Measure the width for the center panels from the
center front of the dress form to 5 inches past the
apex. Using one of the fabric pieces prepared in step
3. snip and tear the fabric at this width.
Use the remaining fabric piece for the side front
panel.
4. Measure the width for the center back panel from
the center back of the dress form to the back princess
seam at the shoulder blade level and add 5 inches.
Using the other fabric piece, snip and tear the fabric

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at this width. Use the remaining back panel piece for
the side back panel.
5. Draw the grainline for the center front panel 1
inch from the torn edge and press under.
6. Draw the garinline for the side front panel in the
center of the fabric piece.
7. Draw the crossgrain line for the front panels 12
inches from the top edge of the fabric.
8. Crossmark the apex.
a. Measure the dress form from center front to the
apex.
b. Crossmark the apex this distance on the center
front panel on the crossgrain line.
9. draw the grainline for the center back panel 1 inch
from the torn edge and press under.
10. Draw the grainline for the side back panel in the
center of the fabricpiece.
11. Draw the crossgrain line for both back panels 8
inches from the top edge of the fabric.

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