Includes the Usambara Mountains

( Lushoto )
Usambara Mountains
Foreword its historic heritage to become a major
tourist attraction on Mainland Tanzania.

The Regional As a newcomer on the international

Commissioner, and regional tourism map Tanga takes
Tanga Region the opportunity to get it right from the
start. The emerging tourism industry
in Tanga Region is led by a cooperation
Captured by the term “Geotourism” by between local private and public tourism
National Geographics Traveller, exciting stakeholders. They are determined to
new forms of travel are developing help residents and local governments to
in the world that sustain and enhance recognise, preserve and use the tourism
the unique character of a destination potential of the immense beauty of
- its environment, culture, heritage, Tanga Region: the natural environment Traditional Dhow
aesthetics and the well-being of its and diverse ecosystems of the Indian
residents. Ocean coast, islands, mountains and
the Maasai Steppe that all form part of
Geotourism includes Ecological, Nature, Tanga Region.
Cultural and Heritage Tourism. What
they all have in common is that they In addition, Tanga Region also has
offer visitors a wider range of authentic significant, valuable and unique built
experiences off the beaten track, in heritage in its historical area. Nowhere
addition to and beyond the traditional in East Africa exist historical buildings
wildlife viewing and beach holidays. of heritage architecture and in large
numbers as found in Tanga. And nowhere
By enhancing a geographic location is this historical area so well planned and
with its nature, history and culture, and developed as in Tanga City.
involving local residents as hosts rather
than servants, Geotourism creates a Let us all work together and develop the
win-win situation. These new forms of significant tourism potential of Tanga Ushongo Beach
tourism help local people recognise and Region in order to preserve and make use
preserve the immense value of their own of marine and terrestrial environments
local environment, unique cultures and and historical heritage!
historical heritage, by carefully developing
them into tourism products that generate
considerable additional income. Maj. Gen. (rtd) Said Said Kalembo
Regional Commissioner, Tanga Region
Recent examples of successful
Geotourism in East Africa include
Zanzibar, where tourism has helped
immensely to save the famous World
Heritage site Historic Stone Town.
Bagamoyo is now also following the
same path and has started restoring Tanga City

4 5
 Usambara Mountains reach up In the scramble for Africa over the
to 2,000 meters above sea level last decades of the 19th century,
and are part of the international German commercial interests and
biodiversity hotspot “Eastern Arc later the German government
Mountains” with their rich endemic conquered the inland, bought the
flora and fauna. Particularly famous coastal strip from the Sultan and
are the “African Violets” (called developed the colony as ‘German
“Usambara Violets” in Germany). East Africa’. With its protected port
Other attractions include Maasai and fertile hinterland, especially
and Paré settlements in Handeni in the Usambara mountains,
and Korogwe and the famous Tanga Tanga became a centre of
sisal estates. German colonization and also an
administrative centre up to 1890
Tanga Region History
Tanga on the Tanzanian northern
when Dar es Salaam was made the
capital of the emerging colony.

History, natural, coast close to the Kenyan border has

a fascinating history as one
cultural & built sandbanks. They are bordered by a of the oldest settlements
heritage range of uninhabited islands - some along the East African
Tanga Region covers 27,348 km2 with historical lighthouses and ruins coast. The word “Tanga”
(3% of the total area of the country) such as Ulenge Island and Toten means “sail” in the Kiswahili
and has an estimated population Island. Some offer accommodation language, an indication that
of nearly two million inhabitants, in small resorts. the protected Tanga Bay has
with at least 300.000 living in over many centuries offered
Tanga City. While most people in The many interesting destinations a safe haven for local fishers
the hinterland are small farmers to visit in and around Tanga Region and the thriving Indian Ocean
and livestock keepers, the coastal include: historic Tanga City centre, trade along the East African
rural inhabitants live off fishing off-shore islands - Toten, Ulenge, coast. Another translation of
and small-scale farming. Others are Yambe and Karange, Maziwe Island “Tanga” refers to the Bondei Lushoto (formerly Wilhelmsthal)
engaged in trades, boat building, off Pangani, nearby Amboni Caves, word “farm”.
salt harvesting and charcoal making. Gallanos Hot Springs and Tongoni
Tanga has the second largest port of Ruins. In 1631, people from the area joined Rapid colonial infrastructural and
Tanzania. the Mazrui dynasty of Mombasa in economic development followed
Tanga Regions hosts several protected their fight against Portuguese rule from 1889 after the end of the
The region offers a wide range of areas: Saadani and Mkomazi National and remained under their influence bloody ‘Bushiri war’ - an uprising of
beautiful places to visit: the long Parks, Amani Nature Reserve, thereafter. Tanga and Pangani local Arab rulers (accused of being
Indian Ocean coastline with its Coelacanth Marine Park and Maziwe became important trading centres slave-traders by the Germans) and
sheltered bays and lagoons, such Island Marine Reserve. for slaves and ivory when the Sultan their followers against the German
as Moa Bay, Manza Bay, Kwale Bay, of Muskat and Oman moved to occupation and the sale of the
Tanga Bay and Mwambani Bay; The region also has lush mangrove Zanzibar in 1832 and controlled a coast by the Sultan. To open up the
Kigombe, Pangani and Ushongo forests, pristine semi-arid forests coastal strip of 10 miles inland of hinterland and especially the fertile
have marvellous beaches - all with along the coast and on the islands. the East African coast. and cool Usambara mountains
fringing and offshore coral reefs and Tropical rainforests of the scenic for economic development and

6 7
trade, a railway was built from Throughout the colonial history, the
Tanga to Moshi and a road network main source of Tanga’s economic Sisal,
developed, including the scenic
winding paved road from Mombo
wealth was Sisal, which was
introduced from Florida, US in 1893
the economic base of Tanga’s ‘past glory’
up the mountains to the emerging and soon turned Tanga Region into Tanga’s wealth was for decades founded on Sisal (Agave sisalana),
district centre Wilhelmsthal (now the World’s main producer and the “white gold of Africa”. Sisal, a hard natural fibre is indigenous
Lushoto). Kiswahili was made the exporter of this profitable crop. to South and Central America, weighs about 150 kilograms when
official language of the colony and This lasted for half a century up to fully grown and much resembles a giant pineapple. Sisal plants were
African boys were offered education Independence, when nationalization introduced from Florida to East Africa in 1893 by a German, Dr. Hindorf.
in the (still existing) Tanga School to resulted in the collapse of the One thousand plants were sent but only 62 survived the journey
join the lower ranks of the colonial industry within a few years. (reportedly smuggled in the folds of a large coloured umbrella). Sisal
administration. Tropical diseases is a very particular crop, which
were researched and a public health World War I brought a massive is drought and disease resistant
system was introduced with large- disruption of the economic and requires much sunlight and
scale screening and early forms of development of the then prospering a narrow range of moisture.
treatment of cholera, tuberculosis, colony. Germany and Britain fought Sisal Farm (1920’s)
malaria and sleeping sickness among a long-drawn-out proxy war in The long spiky sisal leaves are
others. order to tie up each others’ forces cut by hand, starting usually at
and keep them off the European 2 to 3 years after planting, and
Tanga town was developed with a battlegrounds. In November 1914 then annually for up to 8 years, when the plant dies after producing
range of public, commercial and Tanga made military history with the a long flowering pole that is used for low-cost roofing poles. The sisal
famous “Battle of Tanga”: ‘flowers’ are actually seedlings that can be planted directly into the
with help of the newly built soil. Harvesting is an arduous task and workers have to be careful of
railway the German colonel the sharp black spike at the end of each leaf. Fibres are removed
von Lettow-Vorbeck shifted from the leaves in a factory by crushing and scraping. They are then
overnight his troops of dried in the sun, graded and packed in bales for export. Sisal fibres
settlers and Askari soldiers are turned into ropes, twines, cords, fishnets, mats and carpets, and
to Tanga to defend the town more recently, insulation in luxury cars. Modern biogas technology
against British warships. The allows using the waste from sisal production for power generation.
Katani House, Tanga City Germans won this battle
even though British-Indian The stem oozes a juice rich in starch and sugar, which the Mexicans
residential buildings. At the end of troops outnumbered the German ferment into strong liquor called pulque, a practice not known in
the 19th century Tanga already had forces 8 to 1. The British claimed East Africa.
around 5,000 inhabitants. It was afterwards that the Germans were
an important centre for trade and helped by wild bees that got upset By 1956, half the world’s sisal was produced in East Africa (225,000
settlement together with Dar es by the shelling their nests in the tons), with roughly 186,000 of these from colonial Tanganyika. In
Salaam, Ujiji, Tabora, Bagamoyo, trees. They actually stung and Tanga Region, sisal covered 5% of the land area. The sisal industry
Pangani and Kilwa Kivinje - the chased all troops on the ground. was very labour-intensive and attracted workers from other regions,
latter five being either slaving in particular Tabora, Mtwara, and Morogoro. The thriving economy
ports or caravan crossings. By 1913, The British retaliated a year and trade also brought a sizeable population of Europeans and Asians,
Tanga was the fourth largest town later by bottling up and sinking and turned Tanga into a tribal, religious and racial melting pot. The
in Tanzania; by Independence in the legendary German warship town grew rapidly in the 1950s (at an annual rate of roughly 12%)
1961 it was second. “Königsberg” in the Rufiji delta, before settling down to its current level.

8 9
thus gaining control of the coastal He introduced a one-party state From the early nineties,
waters of the German colony. Cut and nationalised the economy. the Tanzanian economy
off from supplies of their homeland His policy of ‘’Ujamaa and African started recovering and is
and often outnumbered, the Socialism’ was popular among - now growing fast.
Germans are said to have invented and very generously supported by
modern guerrilla warfare that avoids - European left-wing intellectuals But Tanga Region has not
and governments, and to yet caught up with its
a certain extent also by former glory; Tanga City
the Soviet Union and the remains a relatively quiet,
socialist countries of the laid-back town - something
Eastern Block. that, ironically, is one of
the attraction for tourists Local Handicrafts

This change of policy after who much prefer peaceful Climate

Independence had various and unspoilt places off the The coastal area is warm with an
impacts on Tanzania, beaten track. average temperature of around 28°
Bombo Hospital, Tanga City and particularly on the C (82° F). Sea breezes make the
prosperous Tanga Region, climate very pleasant all year. The
open battle and ties the adversary’s due to its relatively export- Facts & Figures central plateau around Korogwe
troops with hit-and-run tactics and oriented economy. Most sisal and Tanga Region and Handeni experiences hot days
rapid movements over vast areas. other plantations, many businesses and cool nights. In the hilly country
According to a popular myth, and buildings in Tanga town were Location between the coast and the northern
fighting in East Africa continued for nationalised. Villages were obliged Situated at the north-eastern corner highlands temperatures can drop at
two weeks after the Allied forces to move and combine their land of Tanzania, the Region of Tanga nights below 10° C (50° F) in the
victory in Europe, because the two for communal farms in the so- links the well known Kilimanjaro “winter season” (June to August).
armies could not be found in the called villagization campaign. As Region with Dar es Salaam in the The hottest months are from October
bush, being so far away from any food and cash crops had to be sold south and Kenya in the north. to February. The main rainy season
means of communication! Germany to the government at fixed and Tanga offers its visitors a great is from April to late May where it
lost what was considered her most mostly very low prices only, farmers variety of landscapes: from the rains mostly at night, leaving the
favoured colony and Britain ruled stopped producing for the market stretched coast with mangroves day with bright sunshine.
Tanganyika under a UN mandate and returned to the subsistence and long white-sandy beaches to
until Independence in 1961. economy. Within a decade, the the lush mountains covered with Population & Area
formerly thriving economy of Tanga rainforests that are overlooking the (census 2002)
1961 - Today collapsed. The downturn of the Sisal vast and hilly inland. District Population Area (km²)
Mwalimu (Teacher) Julius Kambarage Industry was also accelerated by a Pangani 43.920 1.700
Nyerere became the first President decline of demand due to upcoming Tanga is one of the 26 regions of Mkinga 106.837 3.000
of independent Tanganyika (called synthetic fibres. Tanzania. Its Regional Headquarters Kilindi 143.792 5.500
Tanzania after the union with is in Tanga City, the biggest town Muheza 171.568 2.300
Zanzibar in 1964) and he remains Nyerere realised that the country and the economic centre of the Tanga City 242.640 600
a national legend until today. He was in trouble and stepped down Region. Tanga Region is divided into Handeni 248.633 8.000
is seen as one of the few African in 1986 to allow his successors to eight districts, each having their Korogwe 260.238 3.100
leaders who could not be accused of liberalise the economy, and later own administration. Lushoto 418.652 4.000
corruption, and who resigned from introduce multi-party policies, Region 1.636.280 28.356
power voluntarily and peacefully. which followed in the mid nineties. Tanzania 42.000.000 945.203
10 11
Biggest Towns Organized Tourism Tanga Cultural Ilya Tours and Safaris Sed Adventures
(census 2002)
Stakeholders & Heritage Central Market, Tours & Safaris
Tanga City(growth rate 4.6) 242,640
Tanga Region Tourism Cluster Ocean Breeze Hotel opp. NMB Bank,
Korogwe 44,538 The Tanga Cultural P.O. Box 6128, Tanga Sun Hotel
Muheza 34,220 and Heritage Tourism ( +255 (0)786 671 163 ( +255 (0)784 689 848
Handeni 18,470 TATONA Cluster initiative is +255 (0)713 560 569 +255 (0)754 826 823
Lushoto 17,660 Founded in 2008, the Tanga Tourism an organised effort to +255 (0)784 660 569 @ info@
Pangani 6,908 Network Association (TATONA) increase the growth @ post@ anna@
takes the lead in efforts to protect and competitiveness ilyatours.com sedadventures.com
Main Access Points and develop the tourism potential of the stakeholders www.ilyatours.com TAYODEA Tour Care
vRoad involved in Tourism in RH Travels near Bus Stop,
Excellent tarmac roads to Arusha, Tanga. domestic Flights Agent Florida Hotel
Moshi, Nairobi (Kenya) and to Street No. 4, near ( +255 (0)27 26 44350
Dar es Salaam Tanga Cultural & Heritage Mkwakwani Lodge, @ youthall2000@
Good all-weather road to Mombasa Tourism Cluster ( +255 (0)653 192 172 yahoo.com
(Kenya) Independence Avenue +255 (0)27 26 45843 www.tayodea.or.tz
(Air P.O.Box 5293 @ rhtravels@ Community Care &
Baobab Tree
Airport in Tanga City Tanga, Tanzania hotmail.com Friendship Association
Airstrips at Ushongo/Pangani of the natural ecosystems, built ( +255 (0)27 264 6114 Starworld Travels&Tours Green Valley Hotel
and Saadani heritage and culture of Tanga +255 (0)784 286 158 int. & dom. Flight Agents ( +255 (0)784 861 969
oBoat Region. By creating regional and +255 (0)655 540 126 opp. Post Office @ cocafatz@
From/to Tanga City - Pemba international linkages to tourism @ info@ ( +255 (0)27 26 45597 yahoo.com
From/to Pangani - Pemba + Zanzibar markets in order to boost Tanga’s tangacultural @ starworldtravel_
economic development, TATONA heritagetourism [email protected] Korogwe
Distances has the mission to develop tourism .com TAYODEA Tourist Lutindi Cultural
(from Tanga City) that is culturally sensitive, socially Information Center Ecotourism Group
Dar es Salaam 355 km responsible, ecologically friendly Market Street, near Msambiazi village,
Arusha 440 km and environmentally sustainable. Tour Operators opp. NMB Bank, Tanga 13 km off main road
Kilimanjaro Int. Airport 390 km The association comprises members & Information ( +255 (0)27 26 44350 ( +255 (0)27 26 41040
Moshi 350 km from Tour Operators and Guides, Centres +255 (0)713 260 027 +255 (0)764 414 491
Mombasa 200 km Hoteliers, Restaurants, Transport @ tayodea@ +255 (0)753 101 618
Pangani 45 km Companies, Manufacturers of Tanga yahoo.com @ lutindi-hospital@
Lushoto 160 km Tourism products and other BlueMango Expeditions www.tayodea.or.tz elct.org
Korogwe 95 km stakeholders. Tours & Safaris
Handeni 165 km Independence Avenue, Lushoto Pangani
Muheza 35 km Tanga Tourism Network Association Sachak House Friends of Pangani Tourist
Independence Avenue P.O. Box 661, Tanga Usambara Society Information Centre
P.O.Box 6164 ( +255 (0)717 032 496 Main Street, ( +255 (0)27 263 0006
Tanga, Tanzania +255 (0)716 919 686 opp. NMB Bank @ www.pangani
( +255 (0)27 26 45254 @ cindy@ ( +255 (0)27 2640 132 tourism.com
+255 (0)713 375 367 mathias@ +255 (0)784 420 310
@ [email protected] bluemango @ usambaras2000@
www.tangatourism.com expeditions.com hotmail.com
Swimming Children

12 13
14 15
 Coral Rag Coast

Mangroves

Rice Fields Sisal Plantation near Usambaras

16 17
 rule in Tanga, where most colonial All buildings have a large open
officers, settlers and soldiers died courtyard at the back for kitchen,
very young from malaria or in the toilets and storage.
war.
Tanga saw the development of
Historical building designs these buildings at the turn of the
Tanga has two major types of 19th century. Different from other
historic buildings of the German East African towns, the historic
(1881-1916) and British (1916-1961) town of Tanga was developed in a
colonial periods, robust colonial planned manner, with streets and
government buildings and private roads clearly demarcated and open
commercial-residential houses. areas for parks and other recreation

Tanga City
The latter are mostly two-storey provided for. Because of this, Tanga
buildings lining the streets of the is still considered the best planned
historic centre and were built by town in the country. More than half
History, natural, the local merchant community
as a fusion of coastal Swahili
of the historic buildings are still
standing and inhabited.
cultural & built at the seafront next to the CRDB styles, Indian and Arabic
heritage bank (now a private building) and architecture.
a row of similar buildings lining this
Tanga’s historical centre street, the Usambara Courthouse, The architectural designs
Tanga City has unique resources for the stunning residence of the are over a hundred years
cultural and heritage tourism. The German District Commissioner old, and similar to colonial
historic centre between the railway of Tanga St Paul-Illaire that now buildings along East Africa’s
line and the port is a treasure-trove houses the Palm Court Hotel B&B Indian Ocean coastline in Old Tanga Club
of architectural heritage that is (on the road to the Harbours Club) towns such as Zanzibar,
special in Tanzania. and close-by the now ruined Cliff Mikindani, Bagamoyo,
Block of the Bombo Hospital, the Pangani and Mombasa and
Many of the impressive former first hospital in East Africa (1901). Lamu in Kenya. Typically,
colonial administration and other Others are Katani House, the Old they have a raised “baraza”
public buildings as well as private Tanga School and Mkonge Hotel (the (veranda), thick pillars,
commercial-residential houses former Sisal Planters’ Club) and the carved solid timber doors, small
are over a century old and still Ismaili Jamat Khana and more. louvered wooden windows and They also reflect a particular
in use. The so-called Regional A few monuments remaining of the intricately designed wooden lifestyle of the people who inhabit
Block, the former office of the German colonial period can be found balconies. The walls are up to two them up to today. One example is
German District Commissioner was in Jamhuri Park, at the seafront feet thick; the roof is raised and the use of the ground floor veranda
recently rehabilitated and is being close to the market and opposite opens on the sides to allow the in front of the house opening to the
developed into the Tanga Museum. of the CRDB bank: the Clock tower ocean breeze to cool the house. road. People still follow the Swahili
Other beautiful surviving landmark and close by the Marine monument, The walls are built with fossil coral cultural tradition of relaxing on
buildings, some in urgent need of built in 1889 to commemorate the stone, sand and lime; the ceiling is this shaded baraza, different from
repair and maintenance, include sailors who died during the Bushiri made of mangrove poles and lime Mombasa and Zanzibar, where roads
the once best hotel in town, the war. Three graveyards also bear plaster, the doors and windows from were often built rather narrow and
legendary former Hotel Kaiserhof witness of the European colonial locally available hardwood timber. left no room for verandas.
18 19
 Then followed the
The German Colonial Period rehabilitation of the
impressive former German
Public buildings are solid and impressive, making their District Commissioner’s
presence felt wherever they stand. The Germans office, the so-called Regional
developed a special colonial architecture for tropical Block, which will become
areas that included elements of Arabic design from places a museum of history and
culture of Tanga.
like Zanzibar, and made maximum use of local materials
such as coral stone, mangroves, timber, sand and stones, After Urithi had set an
and decorating the buildings with intricate arches, example on how to restore Court House
mosaics, elaborate masonry and wood craftsmanship. historical buildings with
very limited funding, other A sad incidence was the collapse of
property owners and organizations the Sakina Building on the corner
The British Colonial Period also recognised the value of the of Swahili and India Streets. This
architectural heritage and followed building was being fully rehabilitated
Buildings were mostly erected after the Second World suit. Rather than pulling such by the owner but due to errors in
War and based on architectural designs of that period. buildings down or ‘modernising’ the masonry work, a section of the
Examples are the Library, Katani House and others, them, they restored the houses main wall collapsed resulting in the
built by commercial companies such as banks and agro- to their original style. Examples inevitable destruction of the whole
industrial firms, or by philanthropists who had become include the former Immigration building.
wealthy from the booming sisal industry. As Tanganyika office, the former residence of
the German District Commissioner This strongly points at the urgency
was not a full colony, Britain did not invest as much as (now Palm Court Hotel), the old of having proper guidelines and
Germany in infrastructure and public buildings. Khanbhai Building (ground floor), skills in place for rehabilitation
the Old Bohora Mosque, the Exim works to prevent similar disasters in
Bank building, the Shia Old People’s future - a vision strongly promoted
Rehabilitation of the courthouse. Urithi also prepared, Home, the former Riddoch Building by the local tourism industry.
heritage buildings in collaboration with experts from and the former Sisal Authority Town
The local NGO Urithi (Tanga Heritage Germany, an architectural plan Warehouse.
Society) was the first to recognise for rehabilitating the Cliff Block of
the value of the architectural the Bombo Hospital, an impressive Unfortunately, some historical
heritage and has rehabilitated building overlooking Tanga Bay. buildings with landmark potential
several historical buildings with very were demolished, such as the
limited funding, mostly donations The rehabilitated buildings were Planter’s Hotel. Others collapsed
and small grants of the German then handed over to their original as a result of lack of repairs and
Embassy and the North German users - the Usambara Courthouse maintenance, soon sadly joined by
town of Eckernförde. The first three to the High Court of Tanga and the the Old Boma next to the Regional
rehabilitated buildings include the Old Tanga School to the Municipal Block that is about to collapse. Many
Usambara Courthouse, the Old Council to be run as a secondary historic buildings are in a state of
Tanga School (the first school of East school. The ‘Msonge’ was renovated serious disrepair; some are even still
Africa built in the 1890’s) and the to become a tourist information under threat of being demolished.
‘Msonge’, a small round hut close to centre. Clock Tower

20 21
 Guidelines for Conservation Shaaban Robert
Tanga is very rich of ‘Conservation and the Heritage Toronto Tanga’s forgotten Kiswahili poet
natural & historical Design Guidelines’ Board is involving the
Machui village, 10km south of Tanga, has been
heritage. This includes for anyone planning or local community in the
Immovable features, undertaking building identification, evaluation, the home of one of the greatest writers of the
such as natural, works in the historic interpretation and Kiswahili literature, Shaaban Robert. He was
scenic and cultural Stone Town. They commemoration of the born in 1909 from parents of the Wayao tribe
landscapes with their include an explanation heritage. from southern Tanzania. He was educated in
biodiversity including on how to design new Msimbazi school in Dar es Salaam and started
rare species; buildings, buildings in compliance
ruins, archaeological with the law, an analysis Participatory work with the colonial civil service as a clerk in
localities, battlegrounds of traditional stone Heritage Customs Department of Pangani in 1926. During

re?
and cemeteries. Tanga’s structures and common Conservation this time he produced much of his literary work.
Heritage has also Movable causes of failure, detailed
is guided by:
h a t pictu
features, such as locally
typical arts and craft,
descriptions of traditional
building technologies and
- A comprehensive
inventory of Heritage
w
From 1944-1946 he joined the Wildlife Department, followed by
work with the Tanga Provincial Commissioner’s Planning Office up
historical maps and up-to-date conservation
documents, as well as techniques, as well as
in the city, based on to 1952. As a member of the East Africa Swahili Committee, the
detailed research, to East Africa Literature Bureau, the Tanganyika Languages Board
Intangibles, such as advice on how to plan
identify its location,
cultural and traditional and execute repairs of and the Tanga Township Authority, he dedicated his literary work
value and integrity.
manufacturing, beliefs traditional buildings.
- Acknowledgement and to the promotion and further development of the rich Kiswahili
and values, skills, music, language. In recognition, he was awarded the Margret Wrong
respect for the value
speech, narratives, As times change, people
and integrity of Heritage Memorial Literature Prize and also made a ‘Member of the British
names, events and wish to change their
ceremonies. buildings or need to carry
in the development and Empire’ (MBE) by the Queen of England. Today, the road passing
property management the National Museum and leading to the State House in Dar es
out repairs. But these
through a co-ordinated
changes, unless properly Salaam bears his name.
Historical Heritage guided, can destroy a
planning approach and an
Conservation open dialogue between
town’s special character, Altogether, Shaaban Robert has produced 22 books of prose,
Like in Zanzibar, the citizens, owners,
which is a main attraction
historical centre of for tourism. Therefore,
developers, consultants, essays and poems, some of which have become standard reading
Tanga is a unique in Zanzibar, the law
city staff and councillors in Kiswahili literature classes. He was married twice and had
cultural asset. The at the earliest ten children. He died relatively young in 1952 and was buried at
requires anyone wanting
opportunity and always
ongoing collapsing and to do building work in
prior to the issuance of
Machui near his birthplace, where he is now commemorated with
demolition of historical the Stone Town to first a white marble gravestone. (extracted from Urithi Newsletter
landmark buildings and any formal approvals.
ask permission from the Vol.2, No.1, 2001)
ill-conceived repairs - Protection of heritage
Stone Town Conservation
are now threatening its in any planning and
and Development
survival. Unlike Zanzibar, design context. Where
Authority, which assesses
Tanga has yet to adopt comprehensive protection
the building application
is not feasible, the least
a policy of heritage according to these
destructive form of Recommended reading on Tanga’s colonial history:
conservation. guidelines.
intervention is essential.
Being a pioneer in
- An understanding and
Charles Miller, Battle for the Bundu, Capetown, 1974
Tanzania, Zanzibar has Tanga could also take a
appreciation of the value William Boyd, An Ice Cream War, London 1982
drawn up: leaf from other places Juhani Koponen, Development for Exploitation,
of Heritage through
around the world,
such as Toronto, where
interpretation and German colonial policies in mainland Tanzania 1884-1914,
communication. Helsinki/Hamburg 1994

22 23
Attractions The Tongoni ruins consist of mosques
and tombs, remains of residential
Gallanos
Hot Sulphur Springs
Toten Island served as a quarantine
station and European graveyard,
Tanga City
houses of the first Shirazi. About 8 km from Tanga City and thus its name ‘Toten Island’, which
Tongoni Ruins Resident guides take you through only 3 km from the Amboni caves is German for ‘island of the dead’.
Other areas worth visiting include the site and explain its history, you can find the Gallanos Hot In 1884, the last inhabitants of the
the well-preserved Tongoni charging a small entrance fee. Springs. These hot and sulphurous Island moved to Tanga. Research is
Ruins, which are managed by the springs are visited by local people needed to explore the history of the
Department of Antiquities. Tongoni Amboni Caves for their healing properties,
is a small fishing village situated The mysterious Amboni Caves 8 km especially for skin ailments.
17 km south of Tanga City. It was north of Tanga City are probably the The colourful greenish-
once a prosperous and respected most extensive limestone caves in blue and yellow deposits
trading centre in the 15th century East Africa, and were sculptured by in the bottom of the brook
established by the Shirazi of Persian natureintoafascinatingunderground give evidence of sulphur.
origin who established many Islamic world of halls, chambers, niches Visitors can take a bath in
settlements in East Africa such as and tunnels, some equipped with the springs, when there is
Kilwa and Mafia. stalactites and stalagmites. A one enough water (mostly after
kilometre stretch can be explored the rainy season), but the
with a local guide who can also walk to the springs is in
Tongoni was probably the location tell many stories about the history itself interesting, through
of the first port before Tanga. Vasco of the caves and of people hiding local ‘shambas’ (fields) and Mosque on Toten Island
Da Gama, the Portuguese sailor, is there over the ages. You will see patches of coastal forest.
known to have visited Tongoni in formations that locals describe as many ruins on Toten Island, which
the Virgin Mary, the Statue Toten Island are also in urgent need of protection
of Liberty, also ancient Toten Island is located in Tanga Bay as historical sites.
paintings, animal footprints directly opposite Tanga Harbour.
and signs of witchcraft and The island is covered by a lush Toten Island also has small beaches
offerings. coastal forest with huge baobab and nature trails criss-crossing the
trees and has also ruins of early forest and ruins and can be visited
The limits of the cave settlements. When the Portuguese by boats, arranged by hotels and
system have not yet been controlled part of the coast, Toten tour operators in Tanga.
investigated. Local legend Island seems to have been used for a
has it that the caves have prison. Later, according to historical Ulenge Island
an exit to the north close to records, the island was around 1854 Ulenge Island borders Tanga Bay and
Mount Kilimanjaro and an occupied by a considerable number Kwale Bay at the north of Tanga. The
extension that comes back of inhabitants. Islamic monochrome island is a typical fossil coral island
to the coast. It is dangerous and Chinese blue and white shards that was formed from a fringing
to go beyond the known mostly of the 15th, 16th and late reef at the last Ice age about 15.000
Amboni Caves
limits of the caves without 18th and 19th centuries have been years ago. The island is covered by
April 1498. He made a second visit proper equipment and expertise. found here. There are also ruins of a dense pristine so-called ‘coral-
the next year and spent 14 days in two mosques and German tombs of rag’ forest with a highly specialized
Tongoni, where he abandoned and The entrance fee is around 3 USD. the turn of 19th century, as well as plant community that has developed
destroyed one of his ships, the ‘San A small kiosk in front of the caves foundations and ruins of buildings to survive without any groundwater,
Raphael’ for being beyond repairs. offers drinks and snacks. of the German colonial era, when instead depending on capturing the
24 25
moisture from the humid air and is hoped that the Port Authority can in such tombs, but also sometimes A long and winding mangrove
storing rainwater during the rainy restore this historical lighthouse to found in ‘mihrabs’ of mosques. creek leading to the village was for
seasons. The bedrock of the island is its former glory! centuries used by dhows trading all
made up of an impressive substrate Traditional Boat Building along the East African coast from
of fossilized coral. You can still see Around the lighthouse, and now Building of traditional boats is still Arabia, India, and as far away as
the skeletal structures of corals and overgrown by dense coastal thicket, one of the liveliest crafts found along China. Archaeological artefacts
giant clams - a gentle reminder of Ulenge Island also has a number of the Tanga coast. Dugouts (mtumbi), found in abundance around the ruins
the passage of millennia. impressive ruins of what once was a outrigger boats (ngalawa), small of this ancient village give evidence
sanatorium for lung patients of the planked boats and the legendary of this, such as coins, beads and
Ulenge Island has important ruins Bombo Hospital. Old photographs cargo dhows (jahazi) are built and shards of pottery, among others of
from the German colonial period show a very beautiful towered repaired using very simple age-old the Chinese Ming dynasty that are
that still need to be researched building that was often mentioned hand tools, mostly close to small over 500 years old. Many of the
and documented. The impressive in travellers’ reports of the German landing sites in bays and mangrove ancient baobab trees bear marks of
historical lighthouse built at the colonial period as their first sight creeks, e.g. at Mchukuni village witchcraft rituals performed until
turn of the 19th century was still when they approached Tanga from in Mwambani Bay. Fishermen are today by local people praying to
the North. happy to invite you for a sailing trip their ancestors buried in this very
on a Ngalawa to the small islands, ancient village. The famous African
Towards the ocean, Ulenge or even on a Jahazi (dhow) going to archaeologist Peter Garlake has
Island is also bordered by a Pemba, but make sure to bring a life started researching and published
healthy coral reef that offers vest, as none of these boats have about the history of the Swahili
great snorkelling and diving safety equipment and Tanzania has coast including the Ndumi area in
over its shallow reef crest no maritime rescue service either. the 1960s, and more discoveries
and down into the drop off wait to be made there. Ndumi
Yambe Island of the Pemba channel. Old Ndumi Village Ruins truly has the potential to become
The adjacent uninhabited Ras an archaeological site of national
fully intact until 2008, complete Yambe Island Nyamakuu peninsula has foundations importance and prime destination
with a Fresnel lens powered by the Yambe Island borders the southeast and ruins of the ancient Ndumi village. for tourism!
so-called AGA gas light that, when coast of Tanga Bay opposite of These date probably back to the
introduced in the 1920s, functioned the Ras Nyamakuu peninsula. The 14th century and are bordered
without a resident lighthouse island is surrounded by coral reefs by a still mostly intact unique
keeper. In 2008, scrap metal and totally covered by coastal rag imposing arch at its entrance
dealers dismantled and vandalized and mangrove forests. Uninhabited that is probably found nowhere
all metal parts of this historical today, German records of the 19th else in Tanzania. Sections of a
monument, destroyed the lens and century mention a small resident town wall built in defence against
removed all doors, the copper roof village of a local Arab ruler with marauding Maasai probably in
and internal staircase. Until that his slaves. Maybe from his time or the 18th century are still held
year, the lighthouse could still be earlier, the island has ruins hidden together by roots of fig trees,
climbed to enjoy the breathtaking in the forest, a walled grave and including a section with a spy-hole
view over Ulenge and Kwale Islands, pillar tomb with large panels, overlooking the creek. Old graves,
into Kwale and Tanga Bays and the enclosed by stones decorated with wells and house foundations are
turquoise sea between Tanga and a herringbone pattern and a frieze scattered in a beautiful park
Pemba that is still plied by dhows of small panels. The herringbone landscape and shaded by huge
unchanged for a thousand years. It pattern is a rare and unique feature ancient baobab trees. Ndumi Village Ruins

26 27
Tanga Museum carpets); building local houses from Traditional Beliefs TAYODEA and the Novelty Youth
The new Boma - where the German natural products; women creating Traditional healing areas, as the Centre. Among other things they
Colonial government was situated - & painting pottery; weaving & locals believe, are spirit places organise International Youth Days,
is to be used as the Tanga Museum. designing tie die fabrics; creating where a witch doctor performs National Youth Weeks, Round Table
The building has been renovated handbags from Kanga material rituals that are believed to ward Discussions, Youth Work Camps,
with support from the German (used daily as customary women’s off evil happenings in your life - or Monthly Youth Dialogue and the
Embassy and Tanga’s Sister City clothing); men designing and carving in the reverse side - develop a ritual Tanga Youth Parliament.
Eckernförde. Momentarily the NGO wooden products like curios, bowls against an enemy. Visiting a witch
URITHI has its office in the Boma, & decorating items. doctor or a local medicine man
promoting the cultural heritage in and tasting their products brings
Tanga City. Fishing you in contact with centuries
Enjoy learning how to fish with the old traditions still performed
The museum is still in the process local fisherman and catch fish using today. This can be experienced
of being equipped with exhibits and centuries old ways; see how they throughout the year.
yet to be opened fully. If you want clean the fish, sell and prepare the
to visit the impressive historical catch. Traditional Medicine
building and see the existing Natural medicines, devised from
exhibits, members of URITHI will Ceremonies generations old procedures, use
show you around. Every March and October bands the roots of trees, gums, leaves,
Mon - Fri, 09.00 -12.00 from all over Tanzania, Kenya, spring water, ocean water,
( +255 (0) 784 44 00 68 Cameroon, Zanzibar, and Congo blood and coffee. Learning
meet at Mkwakwani Stadium for the uses can be an exciting Local Music

Activities the ‘Battle of the Bands’ concert. experience and give you a ‘sense of Agriculture
Many activities in Tanga run People from all over the East Coast medicine of time’ before laboratory Learn how the locals prepare their
throughout the year. Ask your tour of Africa come for the concert. pharmaceuticals were the norm. land, plant, harvest, sell and prepare
operator for more information & From January to December the their crops. Visit the local livestock
scheduled rallies. circus ‘Mama Africa’ shares creative Music/Dance herders and pastoralists like the
entertainment with locals touring You can experience traditional local Maasai and see how they keep
Arts & Crafts Africa, visiting Tanga during June. dance and music from the variety of their cows, goats, sheep, chicken,
The following artists can be visited In Tanga, various religious groups ethnic groups living in and around ducks and pigs. Visit them in their
year round: Women in villages/ are active, like Christians, Muslims, Tanga City. In the bars and clubs in homes and how they manage their
town weaving baskets, sewing shirts Hindu, Sikhs and others; most of town you will find live performances livestock.
on century old sewing machines; them are open for visitors to their of modern Tanzanian music like
women creating beaded jewellery ceremonies. During the four week Taarab, Baikoko, Bongo Flava and Enjoy the rich variety of fruits which
and passionate ladies items; hair period of Ramadhan (fasting time Hip Hop and the ‘Old Dance’. Some Tanga Region is famous for, both
braiding; designing clay pots; for the Muslims) some shops and entertainment is not active during temperate and tropical climate
weaving local mattresses (weaved restaurants may be closed. Pretty the month of Ramadhan. fruits, such as peaches, apples,
much every weekend there is a pears, wild raspberries, guava,
wedding going on in Tanga, and Joining Youth Groups loquarts, cape berries, as well
you can pop in and enjoy the There are several NGOS and as pineapples, mangos, bananas,
cultural style. organisations supporting and papayas, passion fruit, oranges,
empowering the local young people, mandarins and jack fruit.
Kanga (Cloth) e.g. Nguvumali Youth Centre,
28 29
 Facts & Figures o Boat
The Ferry “Spice Islander” to
Tanga City
Pemba and Zanzibar starts at the
Main Transport fares Tanga Harbour. The trip to Pemba
(estimation for 2009) costs 21,000 Tsh one way (15,000
v Bus for Residents). It leaves Tanga on
To/from: Tsh Hours Tuesdays to Pemba, and continues
Dar es Salaam 12,000 (~ 6) on Thursday to Zanzibar. The return
Arusha 12,000 (~ 8) Zanzibar-Pemba leaves on Fridays;
Moshi 10,000 (~ 6.5) Pemba-Tanga on Sundays. It is highly
Lushoto 7,000 (~ 4) recommended to check correct
Pangani 2,000 (~ 1.5) departure in advance.
Mombasa 18,000 (~ 4)
From Pangani and Ushongo you can
The main Bus station is on Pangani hire a boat service to Zanzibar
Road, about 2 km from the City (see ‘Pangani’).
Centre. It is known for aggressive
flycatchers (some of them b Get Around Town
dishonest!); so be prepared for Everywhere in town you will find
intensive discussions as soon as you taxis, “bajaj” (3-wheel- Motorcycle)
step out the bus. Having organized and “pikipiki” (Motorcycle) and
a Hotel/Guesthouse in advance buses (“dalladalla”) to take you
helps a lot. A taxi into town should around. Furthermore you will find
not cost more than 3,000 Tsh. possibilities to hire bicycles (around
1,000 Tsh per day).
The Scandinavia Buses stop at the
stadium (500 m from the Centre); the : Health
service is currently not operating. Regional Hospital Bombo
(Hospital Road)
( Airplane
One-way Flight to: USD Several private Hospitals:
Dar es Salaam (Residents 110,000 Tsh) 136 Burhani (4th Street, Ngamiani)
Zanzibar (Residents 80,000 Tsh) 106 ( +255 (0)27 26 47650
Pemba (Residents 60,000 Tsh) 76 Safi Medics (Hospital Road)
( +255 (0)27 26 43938
Coastal Aviation arrives in Tanga at Tanga Medicare Hospital
6. Raskazone Swimming Club

9. Ngamiani Business Area

17. British WWI Cemetery

13. Popatlal Sportsground
4. Raskazone Peninsula
3. Historical Graveyard

15:30 PM (departure Dar: 14:00) and (close to Main Post Office)

8. Tangamano Ground

11. Okaz Supermarket

18. Katani Sisal House

leaves again for Dar at 16:00 PM. ( +255 (0)27 26 46920

10. Ngamiani Market

14. Burhani Hospital

2. Bombo Hospital

The airport is around 5 km out of +255 (0)715 310 555

16. Tanga Medics
6a Bathing Club

15. Safi Medics

town on the Dar es Salaam/Arusha

5. Yacht Club
1. Bus Stand

highway. A taxi into town should not Major Pharmacies open everyday
cost more than 7,000 Tsh. 09.00-12.45; Mon-Fri 14.00-18.00
7. Port

30 31
 Central
1. Central Market MasterCard.Bankcharges, HTanga City Kola Prieto (x)
2. SD Supermarket esp. for transfers can Hotels ( +255 (0)27 26 44206
3. Post Office vary quite a lot. Changing s-single, d-double
4. Clock Tower money after office hours +255 (0)784 489 526
No. in map
5. Jamhuri Park is not recommended s-30,000
6. Library on the streets. In case Sea View Hotel (i)
Raskazone
7. Tanga Museum/Old Boma
of emergency contact ( +255 (0)784 441 142
8. Tanga City Council Panori (a)
your Hotel or local Tour d-30,000/35,000
9. Cathedral ( +255 (0)656 049260
Operators. Malindi (k)
10. Railway Station +255 (0)27 26 46064
( +255 (0)27 26 42791
11. Central Bakery s-30,000
* Post d-10,000/20,000
12. Stadium d-42,000/55,000
Post office Independence Ocean Breeze (l)
13. Police Mkonge (b)
14. Immigration Street, 9:00 – 16.00, Mon- ( +255 (0)27 26 44545
( +255 (0)27 26 43440
15. Scandinavia Bus Stand Fri, Letters/parcels within d-10,000/15,000
+255 (0)753 248 611
16. Coastal Airline Office Tanzania are transported Mbuyukenda (m)
@ mkongehotel@
17. Uhuru Park by some trustworthy bus ( +255 (0)714 720 942
kaributanga.com
18. German WWI Cemetery companies like Raha Leo. +255 (0)27 26 40094
mkongehotel.com
19. Fish Market @ mbuyukendahostel@
R Restaurants s-75,000/80,000
4 Things To Do elct.ned.org
B Bank/ATM d-85,000/90,000
s-15,000
F Filing Station Nyinda Classic Hotel(c)
Swimming Raskazone d-20,000/25,000
( +255 (0)754 537 434
Tanga Yacht Club: New Upare Hotel (w)
+255 (0)27 26 45051
* Shopping Sisal products admission 2,500 TSh; ( +255 (0)784 956 928
s-40,000/60,000
Tanga City is the major industrial Katani House (Hospital Road) Restaurant open s-7,000/15,000
Regal Naivera Hotel (d)
and economic centre of the region. midday’s and evenings d-8,000/15,000
( +255 (0)784 641 464
You find pretty much everything in Arts & crafts Bathing Club: +255 (0)712 996 668
town – sometimes it might take you Local products are sold at many admission 300 TSh Chumbageni
@ regalnaiverahotel@
a little while to get to the one shop places: e.g. Central Market, Swimming Club: Tanga Hotel 2007 (h)
yahoo.com
selling what you are looking for. Endelevu Cultural Group (Street admission 500 TSh; ( +255 (0)27 26 45006
regalnaivera
No.4), Ukili at Work Group (Street Restaurant open +255 (0)27 26 45006
hotel.com
Supermarkets No. 7), BlueMangoExpeditions and evenings s-12,000
s-40,000/45,000
SD Supermarket (Market Place) Tanga International Conference SP Motel
d-50,000/80,000
Okaz (Makoko Road / 6th Street, Centre (Mwambani). Nightlife ( +255 (0)27 26 44435
Inn by the Sea (e)
Ngambiani) La Vida Loca +255 (0)788 837 307
( +255 (0)27 26 44614
Central Bakery (Swahili Street, just @ Internet Chichi Night Club s-15,000/20,000
s-15,000/20,000
Spider
before the railway) Internet cafes are found all around La Grande Casa Chica Raskazone Hotel (f)
the town centre and Ngamiani area. These Clubs all on ( +255 (0)27 26 45004
( +255 (0)713 670 790
Markets Independence Avenue +255 (0)718 771 499
+255 (0)733 670 790
Central Market (Market St.,Mon-Sun) l Money s-15,000/25,000
@ raskazone.hotel@
Ngambiani (12th Street, Mon-Sun) All major banks have branches in the Tanga Hotel Ze City
gmail.com
Tangamano Market - open air city centre around Market Place. There Eckernfoerde Avenue ( +255 (0)27 26 42013
s-10,000/15,000
(Pangani Road, Clothes and are operating ATM cash machines 24 hrs (Live Band, Fri + Sat) d-20,000/30,000 +255 (0)713 527 515
Utilities, Tue+Thu+Sat) a day, accepting mostly Visa and some suite-40,000/60,000 s-16,000
32 33
Silvarado Hotel (g) s-15,000 Sahare Makundi Raskazone Ngamiani
( +255 (0)27 26 45259 d-20,000 Tanga Beach Resort (v) Local cuisine Swimming Club (6) AL-uruba
s-50,000 Soni Innn ( +255 (0)785 171 717 1,500 - 5,000 Indian cuisine (Khayrat Hotel)
Savena Inn Street No 11 +255 (0)27 26 45424 Rusha Roho 5,000 – 10,000 Local cuisine
( +255 (0)27 26 46567 ( +255 (0)27 26 45777 @ info@ Local cuisine 500 daily Street No 10
s-16,000/30,000 s-25,000/30,000 tangabeach 1,500 - 8,000 membership required 2,500 – 8,000
Palm Court Hotel (s) resort.com Food Point Pizzeria d’Amore Royal Café
( +255 (0)784 928 300 Chuda s-85/155 USD Local cuisine Italian, int’l. cuisine Local cuisine
s-5,000/10,000 New Dolphin Hotel (n) d-115/185 USD 3,000 - 5,000 opp. Mkonge Hotel Street No. 3
( +255 (0)27 26 46061 Mondays closed 1,200 - 2,800
Mwambani +255 (0)784 400 407 HTanga City Razkazone 7,000 – 12,000 Local Food Stands
Tanga International @ dolphinhotel2000@ Restaurants Tanga Yacht Club (5) Panori (a) Street No. 7
Conference Centre yahoo.com Basic price listed Indian, local, int’l. Local, int’l. cuisine
( +255 (0)716 666 617 d-25,000/50,000 cuisine 7,000 – 24,000 Chuda
+255 (0)732 976 512 Old Dolphin Central ( +255 (0)27 26 44246 Nyinda
@ Reservation@ d-12,000/15,000 Patwas @ [email protected] Executive One Hotel
icctan.com Nyinda Executive (o) Indian & local cuisine tangayachtclub.com Local cuisine
www.meeting ( +255 (0)655 662 257 3,000 – 7,000 4,000 - 9,000 2,500 - 12,500
pointtanga.net +255 (0)718 260 299 Ocean Breeze (l) 2,500 daily
s-22,000/40,000 s-20,000 Local cuisine membership required
d-32,000/60,000 d-25000 4,000 – 8,000
Red Sea Motel Cappuccino &
Ngamiani ( +255 (0)27 26 47540 EXPRESSO
Khayrat Hotel +255 (0)754 847 261 Local cuisine
Street No 10 s-15,000 2,500 – 3,500
( +255 (0)27 26 45508 Waridi Excutive Hotel Exotica
+255 (0)716 093 338 ( +255 (0)715 978 475 (Sea View Hotel)
@ [email protected] +255 (0)753 182 088 Indian cuisine
s-15,000/20,000 s-15,000/25,000 5,000 – 12,000
Central City Hotel Mazoon Food Palace
( +255 (0)27 26 44476 ( +255 (0)27 26 45567 Indian, local, int’l. Savannah
+255 (0)27 26 44477 +255 (0)716 462 000 cuisine
+255 (0)713 237 137 s-15,000/20,000 2,500 – 10,000
@ centralcityhotelltd@ d-20,000/30,000 Afrique
yahoo.com Mtendele Hotel (t) Local cuisine
40,000/50,000 ( +255 (0)654 488 882 2,500 – 5,000
Panama +255 (0)27 26 45304 New Upare Hotel
Street No 14 @ mtendele@ Local cuisine
( +255 (0)714 988 519 yahoo.com 2,000 – 6,000
s-15,000 www.mtendele.com Local Food Stands
Maua Inn d-20,000/50,000 Roundabout
Street No 8 Mkwakwani Stadium
( +255 (0)27 26 46242 1,000 – 3,000
34 35
36 37
Tanga Coast
The coastal stretch of Tanga Region ‘living fossil’ Coelacanth fishes that
is tropical, well structured with live in deep waters along the outer
numerous bays and small uninhabited island drop offs. They were only
islands covered by pristine coastal recently discovered in 2003, when
forests, surrounded by coral reefs, fishermen started catching them
with extensive areas of sea grass accidentally as by-catch in deep-set
beds, mangroves, creeks and drops shark nets. Before that, Coelacanths
offs. Small fishing villages line the were only found in the Comoros,
coast, where locally made dugouts and very few in South Africa and
(mtumbwi), outrigger (ngalawa) Indonesia. Coelacanths, a critically
and larger wooden planked cargo endangered ‘Cites I Species’, are
boats (jahazi) - all powered by the of enormous scientific interest as
beautiful age-old traditional lateen they are among the oldest fish on
sails - still dominate and ply the Earth, dating from the era when
turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean, marine animals started moving out
reminiscent of an over 1,000 years of the sea and populating the land.
old trade that linked East Africa with Coelacanths pre-date even the
Arabia and the Indian subcontinent. dinosaurs by over 300 million years!
For their protection, the Tanzanian
Boat trips can be organised through government has decided to create
tour operators in Tanga City. a Marine Park along the Tanga south
coast, and in 2009 already gazetted
Coelacanth an area stretching from Tanga Bay
Marine Park outwards beyond the fishing village
of Kigombe. The park also includes
Tanga is also
immensely Toten Island, Mwambani Bay and
privileged the Yambe and Karange Islands,
to host a where most of the Coelacanths have
sizeable been found so far. Similar to these
population outer coral rag islands in the park,
of the huge the cliffs of stunningly beautiful
Live Coelacanth
and unique Mwambani Bay and further down

38 39
the coast mainly consist of marine
fossils dating at least 15.000 years
Kigombe
Kigombe is situated about 30km
ago, when the sea level sank south of Tanga. The village has
during the last Ice age and exposed more than 3,000 inhabitants. It is
ancient coral reefs. Fossilized corals surrounded by vast sisal fields and
and shells like the giant Tridacna actually is the biggest fishing village
continuously emerge from the along the Tanzanian coastline.
cliff walls and line the beaches of
What to do in Kigombe
You can stroll along the endless
beaches and admire magnificent
mangroves. Or you have a look
at the Kingfisher house – right at
Coconut Indonesia and India are alcoholic drink (about 6
the largest exporters % alcohol).
the southern end of the village There is no plant more of copra worldwide. Oil
- built in colonial times in the typical of the Swahili extracted from copra is Other uses of coconut
early 20th century, from where coast than the coconut used to make cooking are numerous: the
you have a beautiful view over palm. Some botanists oil, margarine and soap. trunks are used for fuel,
Coastline Kigombe harbour. consider that this charcoal, house and
palm originated on the Nuts for copra need to boat building and rather
the coastline. A Management Plan The more adventurous can go on a Pacific coast of Central
is now under preparation, which be mature, and they are fine furniture; the dried
dhow to a paradise-like little sand America, while others ready when they fall to leaves produce thatch
will designate zones of protection island and snorkel along some stunning think that the centre
and multiple uses and hopefully the ground. Under ideal (‘makuti’) or can be
coral reefs – part of the Coelacanth of origin is Melanesia; conditions, with good made into mats and
introduce sustainable fishing Marine Park - on the way out. that is roughly from New
techniques in the area. Today the rainfall, each tree may fences. The coarse fibre
Guinea to Fiji. Anyway, yield over a hundred on the outside of nuts
park can be visited through Tour For accommodation and contacts by the time Vasco da
Operators. Once fully established nuts a year. is coir, used for ropes,
in Kigombe see Pangani Facts & Gama reached East matting and upholstery.
and well managed and a Visitors’ Figures. Africa in 1498, coconuts
Centre built, this Marine Park will Locally, coconuts are The oil is for cooking,
were already here. also sold when they anointing, illumination
be a powerful tourist attraction. Malaysian sea-rovers or are immature, when and soap. Half shells
Arabs had introduced the flesh is eaten and (the stony endocarp)
them centuries earlier. the juice is drunk. A are used for bowls,
coconut, when it is at cups, measures, scoops
The main product of the stage of being full of and ladles. Besides
these palms is the juice, is called ‘dafu’ in this, coconut honey,
copra, the thick white Kiswahili. thin and reddish-brown
edible flesh contained Palms are also tapped is delicious. Indeed,
in the nuts. This copra for palm wine or toddy. without the coconut,
or ‘meat’ of the coconut The unopened flower life on the Swahili coast
can be dried and is tapped for the sap, would be poorer: it
stored for long periods, which can - after a is a great provider to
which facilitates its few days - turn into an mankind.
Lionfish
export. The Philippines,

40 41
 History, natural, Several historical sites in and around
cultural & built the town serve as reminders of the
heritage strong Arabic influence and the later
German and British colonial era in
History of Pangani Tanganyika. The district boma or
Archaeologists have found the headquarters is the most impressive
remains of small 15th century building remaining from the period
settlements on the bluffs just of Zanzibari rule. People were
north of Pangani. The modern buried alive under the pillars during
town came to prominence in the construction as it was believed this
nineteenth century when - under would ensure strong foundations.
nominal Zanzibari rule - it was a
major terminus of caravan routes Today
to the deep interior. From the 1860s Once a centre of Swahili trade
townspeople established large with the African mainland, the
Pangani plantations of sugar and coconut in
Mauya along the banks of the river
town of Pangani is now a sleepy
backwater that little remembers its
just west of town. The plantations days of splendour. The old German
Pangani is situated 45 km south of or your own nets because they are were worked by slave labour and administrative boma still stands
Tanga City and lays at the mouth of often not in the best condition. Pangani became an important behind a colonnade of tall shade
the Pangani River, which flows all Eating in town is limited. Some centre of the slave trade.
the way down from the Kilimanjaro local restaurants serve fresh grilled After the Sultan of Zanzibar
Highlands and meets the Indian fish, seafood or chicken with chips signed treaties with Great
Ocean. Pangani has a remarkable and a salad. For a cosy three course Britain outlawing the ocean-
history dating back to the 15th candle light dinner better make an going trade in slaves in 1873,
century and traces of old buildings arrangement with the lodges in the Pangani became a centre for
and monuments still can be seen. area. smuggling slaves across the
Its quiet and laid-back atmosphere narrow channel to Pemba, in
offers an ideal get-away for those Travelling further south to Ushongo evasion of British warships.
seeking to escape the masses of Beach or Saadani National Park is
tourists that flock to Zanzibar. possible by crossing the river to In 1888 Pangani was
Bweni, a small village on the other the centre of an armed
A range of higher budget side. The new car and passenger movement to resist German
accommodations are found a few ferry is operating from 6:00 am colonial conquest of the
kilometres north of Pangani Town to 6:30 pm; charges are 200 Tsh entire mainland coast. The
Pangani Old Town

and at Ushongo Beach, 16 km south per person and from 5,000 Tsh for local leader of the resistance was trees and the former prison - painted
of the river. High cliffs are forming vehicles depending on size. The Abushiri ibn Salim al-Harthi, born in a fading ochre red - overlooks the
the small bays around the coastline, other option to reach Saadani Zanzibar - and slave trader himself. river’s lazy waters. Old houses along
giving a stunning view of the Indian National Park is to pass 50 km After his defeat he was hanged by the main road are lived-in examples
Ocean. There are a few guesthouses through small villages from Pangani the Germans in Pangani in December of colonial and traditional Swahili
in town offering low budget bed & to the Tanga-Dar es Salaam highway 1889. architecture and slowly crumble by
breakfast. It is recommended to and enter the Park from there. the monsoon winds. Visitors passing
bring enough mosquito repellent through the area may explore what
42 43
Attractions system that stretches from Tanga
up to Saadani. Snorkelling is
surrounding reefs Fungu Datcha,
Fungu Ushongo, Masera and
perfect for those who want to give
it a try, while more experienced
Pangani & Ushongo
Not only the historical highlights, the opportunity to observe the Kipumbwe Reef are excellent places surfers will find more thrill at the
the laid-back atmosphere and the fascinating underwater world to dive with numerous dive sites and reef break on the outside for wave-
beautiful beaches are attracting without complicated equipment a relaxed and professional attitude riding and jumping. Different sized
tourist to visit this part of the world. and training. Especially the reef to the sport for experienced and boards and sails are available and
Pangani and Ushongo are as well a surrounding Maziwe Island features novice divers. Dive groups are training can be arranged. The winds
heaven for outdoor adventures and beautiful underwater scenery with usually small and instructions can are usually good in the afternoon;
activities. Rich coral reefs run along hard & soft corals and an interesting be given in several languages. always watch for the tide level
the coastline, supporting a vibrant marine life. Check the equipment especially surfing along the shallow
before renting it. Fogged There are various options open to reefs.
masks, unfit fins and leaking those who want to learn to dive,
snorkels can take away the from a one day introductory course Sailing
whole fun of it. Start the to the PADI Open Water Certification, Get a glimpse of the African sailing
snorkel adventure in shallow an internationally recognized tradition and cruise along the coast
water and use a life-jacket qualification. Even the youngsters in a Ngalawa or a wooden dhow
depending on experience from age 8 can get a first
level and conditions of the experience underwater.
ocean.
Kayaking
Diving Looking for more adventure,
The Tanzanian coastline is an then get a sea kayak and
Diving unexplored and untouched paddle out from the beach
underwater world and making an area and Pangani is a new and view the coastline from
excellent place to snorkel and dive. dive destination in the warm waters afar. Take snorkel equipment
Various hotels offer water sports of the Indian Ocean. A diversity and discover the reefs close
including kayaking, windsurfing, of dive sites, from gently sloping to shore or row in one of the
island boat trips, sailing and biking. coral gardens to massive bommies small mangrove rivers for
surrounded by beautiful reef fish is some bird watching.
A culture walk through Pangani offering something for everyone. Most of the kayaks are Sailing
town, a Pangani River Cruise or a Blue spotted rays, crocodile fish, “Sit-on-top” style, easy
trip to Saadani National Park can be leaf fish and Napoleon fish are to start the trip and never sink. for a day or a sunset cruise; this is
arranged by nearby lodges & resorts, regular encounters underwater Kayaks can be hired by hour/half a great way to enjoy the natural
Pangani Tourist Office and Tanga and not to forget the presence day in different places and inquire ocean environment. A day cruiser
tour operators. For all excursions of the many green turtles. The about the hot spots and weather and a catamaran sail yacht can
and activities always take enough depth ranges from 5-35 meters and conditions. be hired for more comfortable
water, wear a T-shirt and lots of sun diving is possible all year around travelling. Combine a sailing trip
protection. with an average visibility of 15m Windsurfing with sightseeing around Pangani or
and an extremely pleasant water Windsurfing is still a popular activity snorkelling at one of the sand islands;
temperature of 26-29 C. and beginners and pros can all enjoy it is a truly unique experience.
Snorkeling the warm waters and fresh sea Learn more about sailing and take a
The coast in this Region is host Maziwe Island Marine Reserve breeze of the ocean. The shallow few hours instructions while staying
to a rich and exciting coral reef (see Tanga Coast for map) and the and sheltered areas of the coast are at the beach.
46 47
Fishing
Fishing along the coast includes
official tracks; any road or footpath
is excellent for a ride, as is the
Facts & Figures next options are the hospitals in
Tanga City
Pangani & Ushongo
casting along shore, fishing from the beach at low tide.
kayak to trips on a motorized Dhow Main Transport fares (2010) Pangani District Hospital open daily
to inshore reefs or deep sea fishing Pangani River Cruise v Bus 8am-12.45 pm; Mo-Fr 2pm – 6pm
to the outside fishing grounds. Enjoy The Pangani River meanders the To/from: Tsh Hours
a fishing combination by trolling and landscape, fringed with mangroves Tanga 2,000 (~ 1.5) * Shopping
bottom fishing using lures or natural and coconut plantations. You might Muheza 2,000 (~ 1.5) Pangani has a small market at the
bait. Typical catches are Kingfish, see Mangrove and Pied Kingfisher (Best to go via Tanga) bus station with fresh goods like
Barracuda and Trevally, with some hiding in the branches of trees, Buses to Pangani and Ushongo fruits/vegetables. (open daily)
luck even a sailfish or a Yellow Fin Colobus monkeys looking for a departing from Tanga bus stand
Tuna. shady area, and with a bit of luck are not really on a fixed schedule. @ Internet
some crocodile might come up to Another more comfortable and Some lodges/resorts in Pangani and
the surface. faster way to get there is by Ushongo offer internet connection.
Leave before sunset, when taxi; the price depends on your
it is not so hot anymore and negotiation skills, but it should not l Money
most wildlife become active exceed 60,000 Tsh to Pangani. To NMB is the only bank operating in
again. Make sure there is get to Ushongo from Pangani, ask at Pangani, offering to change cash
some roof shade on the the Pangani bus station for leaving money only. There is no international
boat, take a cool box of cold dalladallas, the Tourist Office on the ATM service and you cannot change
drinks and enjoy a romantic market area or arrange transport traveller cheques in Pangani.
sun downer on the River. directly with your lodge/resort.
* Post
Pangani Culture o Boat Ocean Road following the Pangani
Walk To/from: River next to the ferry
The pleasant atmosphere of Ushongo (~ 0.5 hrs)
Pangani makes for a pleasant Zanzibar/Nungwi (~ 1.5-2 hrs) 4 Things To Do
walk to the historical places
of interest any time of the The speedboat leaves Mon, Wed, Diving - Ushongo
day. The Boma, German Fri; Departure Ushongo (07.30), Kasa Divers –
Cemetery, the Slave Prison Pangani (08.00); Dep. Zanzibar/ PADI Dive Resort & Watersports
and the memorial garden Nungwi (10.30), Pangani (12.00). ( +255 (0)786 427 645
are found to the west of Fare: 1-4 pax 250-270 USD per boat +255 (0)784 134 056
town. To visit the Slave 5 and more: 45-50 USD per person @ www.kasa-divers.com
Depot, stroll down the River Transfers to Pemba or other Beach Crab Dive Centre
Fishing Boat Road and continue to the travelling days on request. ( +255 (0)784 543 700
coconut processing area at ( +255 (0)784 134 056 @ www.thebeachcrab.com
Biking the river’s mouth. Combine the walk +255 (0)782 457 668
Bike through the tropical coastline stopping at the fossilized remains @ [email protected] Information - Pangani
away from busy roads and of a dinosaur north of town. The Pangani Tourist Information Centre
experience a different picture tour takes about 2 hours and guides : Health ( +255 (0)27 263 0006
of Pangani, its local villages and can be found in the Pangani Tourist Pangani District Hospital @ www.panganitourism.com
breathtaking scenery. There are no Office opposite the bus station. West of Pangani Town
48 49
 +255 (0)713 917 754 Ushongo Beach Drifters Lodge
HPangani & @ info@ (16 km south ( +255 (0)27 2641071
Ushongo baharipori.com of Pangani) +255 (0)714 542 909
Hotels s-50, d-70 USD Emayani Lodge @ drifters@
s-single, d-double
(hb) s-60, d-90 USD ( +255 (0)27 26 40755 mtnloaded.co.za
hb-half board
(fb) s-70, d-110 USD +255 (0)782 457 668 (hb) s-30/70 USD
fb-full board
cottage: 230 USD @ info@ Kaskaz Beach Lodge
Capricorn emayanilodge.com ( +255 (0)784 489 248
Pangani
Beach Cottages (hb) s-105 USD s-60 USD
Mkoma Bay
30 km south of Tanga d-80 USD p.p. d-120 USD Star
Tented Lodge Sea
( +255 (0)784 632 529 The Beach Crab Resort
4 km north of Pangani
@ capricornbeachcot ( +255 (0)784 543 700
( +255 (0)27 26 30000
[email protected] +255 (0)784 253 311
+255 (0)786 434 001
capricornbeach @ info@
@ mkomabay@
cottages.com thebeachcrab.com
gmail.com
s-44 USD, d-88 USD camping: 4,500 p.p.
mkomabay.com
YMCA Hostel (hb) Tented Camp
(hb) s-110,000/130,000
4 km north of Pangani s-45,000
d-200,000/250,000
( +255 (0)787 525 592 d-35,000 p.p.
Tinga Tinga Lodge
s-15,000 Tsh (hb) Bungalow
2 km north of Pangani
d-20,000 Tsh s-105,000
( +255 (0)784 403 553
Pangani Beach Resort d-75,000 p.p.
+255 (0)786 364 310
2 km from Pangani Tulia Beach Lodge
+255 (0)27 26 30022
( +255(0)27 26 30088 ( +255 (0)27 26 40680
@ info@
+255(0)786 156 110 +255 (0)782 457 668
tingatingalodge.com
40 USD p.p. @ info@
s-65/89 USD
Stop Over Hotel tuliabeachlodge.com
d-47/65 USD p.p.
Pangani Town s-45 USD
(hb) s-73/97 USD
( +255 (0)784 498 458 (hb) d-55 USD p.p.
d-55/73 USD p.p.
+255 (0)717 441 011 camping: 10 USD
Peponi Beach Resort
s-10,000 Tsh Ushongo Beach
30 km south of Tanga
Sea Side Cottages
( +255 (0)784 202 962
Community Hostel ( +255 (0)784-214 412
+255 (0)713 540 139
Pangani Town +255 (0)715-477999
@ info@
( +255 (0)27 26 30318 @ info@
peponiresort.com
@ alcposs.spiritual ushongobeach.com
s-40/50 USD
[email protected] cottage: 70-130 USD
d-55 USD
d-30/40 USD The Tides Lodge
(hb) s-52/67 USD
Safari Lodge ( +255 (0)27 26 40845
d-80 USD
opp. Police Station +255 (0)784 225 812
camping: 4 USD
( +255 (0)788 286 265 +255 (0)713 325 812
Bahari Pori Beach Resort
+255 (0)717 505 637 @ info@
10 km north of Pangani
s-10,000,d-12,500 thetideslodge.com
( +255 (0)754 073 573 Beach Bicycling Anenome Fish
(hb) s-200 USD
50 51
remains of the old town on foot. and an ideal destination for families, importance of this ecological system per person to support their project
Even a short walk rewards visitors honeymooners and those looking for above and under water. protecting the island and the
with a glimpse of the quiet life in an a holiday off the beaten track. surrounding reefs.
old trading town along the Swahili The long reef slopes and
Coast. Maziwe Island beautiful coral gardens
Pangani is a secondary centre of Marine Reserve around the Island are still
the sisal industry, servicing sisal (see Tanga Coast for map) visited by sea turtles looking Sea Stars
plantations to the north and south Maziwe Island is one of the oldest for breeding places, with
of town. Marine Reserves in Tanzania and records of about 200 nests of
is located about 15 nautical miles green and olive ridley turtles
Ushongo off the coast of Pangani. In 1912 - in a season, when Maziwe
Continuing the journey another 16 according to a report of a German was still a forested island.
km south, away from the old remains officer – the island was covered by Unfortunately, there is no
of history, another important part of a dense forest which was so lush chance of breeding success
the coastal Swahili culture can be that he got lost looking for a sailor’s today as sea water now
grave. From the 1970s the covers the eggs at high tides
trees were cut down and and they rot. The Tanzanian
the island reverted to a Government, the Friends
sandbank. Around 1983 of Maziwe NGO, the local
the last tree was seen on community and the NGO Sea Sense
Maziwe and what is left have joined together to find a way When visiting Maziwe Island
today, is a sun-kissed sand to protect and save the remaining (and any other marine areas)
island, exposed during low turtle nests. On the agenda of the please follow the environmental
tide. Established in 1975 it turtle conservation project is close friendly guidelines:
was given the status of a monitoring of any turtle activity
Reserve to protect this most on the island, relocating nests to 1. Please do not step on corals as
important breeding place a protected area on the mainland they break easily. Watch your feet
for sea turtles of the East and raising awareness amongst and fins at all times.
Coral Fish African Coast as well as to
communities of the importance of 2. Please do not chase, touch
take care of the important sustainable resource use. Turtles and feed marine wildlife. Feeding
seen: a traditional fishing village in reef system around. are on the brink of extinction in fish or any other species can lead
Ushongo Beach. No visitor can fail to Tanzania. Ask for more information to them becoming reliant upon the
be charmed by the wooden sailing A diversity of nearly 400 species in your Lodge/Resort, visit the Turtle food source and aggressive towards
boats that glide gently through the of fish, 35 genera of hard and Conservation Area and Information humans.
water in the early morning hours, soft corals, sponges and algae as Centre at Kasa Divers or check 3. Please do not litter on the
providing fish for the fishermen’s well as shoreline birds have been under www.seasense.org. island and take all the rubbish back
families and surrounding lodges and identified. Just recently a group of home.
resorts. bird experts from Denmark counted The entrance fee for the Marine 4. Please do not collect any shells
35,000–38,000 Terns roosting or Reserve is 10 USD per person per or other dead or alive marine
Ushongo is still one of the little passing Maziwe, among them the day. creatures.
known secrets of the Tanzanian first Black Tern reported in Tanzania. 5. Please do not anchor on the
coast with its fabulous and secluded Still a lot of research needs to be A local community called “Friends coral reef.
beaches, fringed by coconut palms done on Maziwe to understand the of Maziwe” is collecting 2,000 Tsh

44 45
52 53
54 55
56 57
 while Swahili fishermen cast their nets and snorkelling. Visit Saadani
below a brilliant red sunrise. fishing village, which lies within
the reserve. Go out fishing with the
Welcome to Saadani National Park! local fisherman for a fresh catch
for dinner. Trips to the Park are
About Saadani arranged through tour operators.
National Park Saadani was very important during
Size: 1,100 sq km (430 sq miles) pre-colonial and colonial times. In
Location: On the north coast, roughly the 19th century it was a major
100 km northwest of Dar es Salaam as trading post for caravans and also
the crow flies, and a similar distance a regional administrative centre for
southwest of Tanga City. the German colonial government.

Saadani National Park

An impressive ruin of the German
Entrance Fee: 20 USD boma can still be visited.
(1,500 for Tanzanians)
Where the Bush When to go
Meets the Beach How to get there The Park is accessible all-year
The park is the only wildlife giraffe, buffalo, warthog, common ( Air: Charter flights from round, however the access roads
sanctuary in East Africa to boast an waterbuck, reedbuck, hartebeest, Zanzibar or Dar es Salaam are sometimes impassable during
Indian Ocean beachfront. Saadani wildebeest, red duiker, greater kudu, v Road: Thrice-weekly road the heavy rain season in April and
possesses all the attributes that eland, sable antelope, yellow baboon shuttle from Dar es Salaam, taking May. The best game-viewing is in
make Tanzania’s tropical coastline and velvet monkey. Herds of up to four hours in either direction. January and February and from
and islands so popular with local 30 elephants are encountered with There is no road access from Dar es June to August.
and international nature lovers. Yet increasing frequency and several lion Salaam along the coast; follow the
it is also the one place where those prides are resident, together with Dar-Tanga highway for 160
idle hours at the beach might be leopard, spotted hyena and black- km to Mkata, then 60km on
interrupted by an elephant strolling backed jackal as well as over 200 dirt road to Saadani National
past, or a lion coming to drink at species of local and migratory birds. Park. Direct road access
the nearby waterhole! Boat trips on the mangrove-lined from Tanga and Pangani via
Protected as a game reserve since Wami River come with a high chance Ushongo is possible except
the 1960s, in 2002 it was expanded of sighting hippos, crocodiles and after heavy rain, and all
to cover twice its former area. a selection of marine and riverine year access from Tanga to
The reserve suffered greatly from birds, including the mangrove the Park via the Tanga-Dar
poaching prior to the late 1990s, but kingfisher and lesser flamingo, while highway. A 4-wheel drive is
recent years have seen a marked the beaches form one of the last always required in the Park.
turnaround due to a concerted major green turtle breeding sites on Lion Pride
clampdown on poachers, supported mainland Tanzania. What to do
and helped by local villagers with Explore the many attractions of Contact
the conservation drive. Palm trees sway in a cooling oceanic the Saadani National Park through Contact Person: Tourism Warden
breeze. White sand and blue water game drives, guided walks and boat ( +255 (0) 785 555 135
Today, a surprisingly wide range sparkle alluringly beneath the tropical safaris on the Wami River. The white @ [email protected]
of grazers and primates is seen on sun. Traditional dhows sail slowly past, sandy beaches and the perfectly [email protected]
game drives and walks, among them propelled by billowing white sails, clean water invite for swimming www.tanzaniaparks.com
58 59
Accommodation
Kisampa Lodge Saange Beach Lodge
just outside the Park direction Mkata Saange village just outside the Park
( +255 754 972 694 ( +255 (0) 787 921 421
+255 753 005 442 @ [email protected]
@ [email protected] www.oloika-lodges.com
[email protected]
www.kisampa.com The Saadani Safari Lodge
Kisampa Camp: ( +255 (0) 22 27 73294
240/300 USD p.p. sharing +255 (0) 784 585 401
Kisampa Bush Camping: @ [email protected]
(exclusively set up for each client www.saadanilodge.com
group) 240/300 USD p.p. d-285/400 USD p.p. sharing
Sima Beach Retreat: Child (6-16) 227 USD p.p. sharing
(private beach camp, exclusively set Honey Moon 500 USD p.p. sharing
up for each client group) 240/300 Includes: Full board, park fees &
USD p.p., min. 4 pax taxes, airstrip transfer, laundry, one
daily shared activity
A Tent with a View
Mkwaja just outside the Park
( +255(0) 713 323 318
+255(0) 222110507
@ [email protected]
www.saadani.com
Full Board or All Inclusive (except
park fees 20 USD)
Tented Banda: 195/275 USD p.p.
Suite: 265/375 USD p.p.
Single supplement 80 USD per night

Saadani Rest Houses

inside National Park
( +255(0) 784 517 212
+255 (0) 762 263 649
@ [email protected]
www.tanzaniaparks.com
Old Rest House
s-20 USD, Res.-10,000
New Rest House
s-50 USD, Res.-30,000
d-70 USD, Res.-40,000
Bandas 40 USD, Res.-20,000
Tents 20 USD, Res.-10,000 p.d. Giraffes

60 61
Mangrove forests bind the silt winds. With them, the
washed down into river Arab traders brought
Mangroves are a group mouths, and provide an Islam, their language
of trees that are important refuge and Arabic (which mixed
able to survive in salt nursery for young fish with Bantu languages
and brackish water. and crabs, as well as and formed the regional
These trees belong to habitat for many bird lingua franca Kiswahili),
unrelated families and species. All mangrove gunpowder, pottery and
all have adaptations to forests in Tanzania are beads. What they took
life in waterlogged soils legally protected. back on the Kusi (south-
and saline or semi-saline west-monsoon) was
water. Some species The Tanga coastline has ivory, slaves, mangrove
develop spider-like prop many mangrove forests; timber and poles,
roots to prevent the so far nine different and honey from the
plant from falling over species have been mangrove flowers.
in soft mud; others have identified. Mangrove wood is much
knee-like aerial root prized for furniture,
projections, which allow For many centuries, poles, building
the roots to breathe the termite-resistant scaffolding and house
during low tides. mangrove poles were construction. Even the Market, Kitivo / Usambaras
Mangroves are at the traded to Arabian very boats that took
interface between countries and beyond, these prizes back to
land and sea and are mostly by lateen-sailed Arabia were made from
vitally important in the Arabic Dhows that were mangrove timber. Dhow
protection of coastlines able to reach the east ribs come from the
and estuaries from African coast due to white mangrove and
erosion by wave action the seasonal Kaskazi the mangrove Heritiera
of the sea. Mangrove (north-east monsoon) makes fine dhow masts.

Shellfish Gleaning

62 63
www.UsambaraMountains.com
The end of the kingdom was in 1898 comparison the whole of Western 2,000 mm falls in Amani every year. for the tourist is made more
when a fire destroyed the capital at Europe houses only 71 species of This stability allowed the forests to memorable when accompanied
Vuga. The demise of power was due trees. That means 9.6 times as evolve and form many species over by a guide knowledgeable in the
to a number of factors, including many tree species in the Usambaras a long period of time. The forests of ecology of these forests. (Contacts
epidemics of smallpox, an old as compared to Europe! the Usambaras were once continuous for registered guides see below)
disease in Africa that was spread with those of the Central African
far and wide by the Arab slave Other examples from this rainforests, but became isolated The most important attraction of the
traders. An important slave route biological wonderland: from them perhaps millions of East Usambaras is the Amani Nature
was immediately below the Irente • 2,855 plant species in total years ago. So this little refuge in the Reserve with its botanical garden,
View point following the Mkomazi • 30 species of amphibians & clouds, left undisturbed by climate butterfly farming, tea & spice
flood plain into the interior. reptiles, 15 are endemic; among change that occurred elsewhere, plantations and accommodation on
them the Usambara two-horned, could continue with its evolution of site (see Muheza section for more
With the demise of the Kingdom three-horned & soft-horned many and unique species. information). Nature reserves are
came the Germans as colonists. chameleons better protected than forest reserves
They gave the Usambaras special • At least 8 butterfly species Sadly, as Shakespeare once said, as nobody is allowed to collect dead
status as a place of rest and are endemic, while 43 species are “Where every prospect
recreation, away from the humid, threatened pleaseth only man is vile”.
disease-ridden coast. Lushoto was • Interesting mammals such as Man has been an enemy
‘Wilhelmsthal’ and some wished tree hyraxes, Swynnerton’s squirrel, of the forests. Only 6.7 %
it would become the capital of the lesser pouched rat and Abbot’s of the original vegetation
Deutsch Ost-Afrika. The Germans duiker is left today. Your best
also founded the Amani Agricultural bet of finding original and
Research station in East Usambaras Highlights amongst birds are: the undisturbed rainforest is in
that became famous for botanical green-headed oriole, Amani sunbird, the Amani Nature Reserve
experiments testing mainly rubber Usambara-hyliota, -Eagle Owl, (East Usambaras) and
and cotton; over 350 people were -Weaver, -Alethe, Hartlaub’s Turaco, Mazumbai Forest (West Cloud Forest
employed at its peak. Fischer´s Turaco, Blue-mantled Usambaras).
crested flycatcher, bartailed and wood or to herd livestock. Good
Biology Narina trogons … the list is endless. Every visitor coming for the beauty news, in 2010 the Shume-Magamba
The Usambaras have exceptional and the richness of the Usambara forest reserve (largest in the West
biodiversity; occupying only 400,000 WhyaretheUsambarassobiologically Mountains helps to preserve the Usambaras) will be upgraded to
hectares, the mountains house 684 rich? The answer lies in geological natural environment! a nature reserve status. This will
tree species and sub-species. By and climatical stability: no major mean a larger operational budget
geological upheavals for 30 Forest & Nature Reserves and better protection from arsonists
million years. The south- in the Usambaras and wood thieves. This is the first
easterly trade winds have There are many forest reserves and forest reserve to be upgraded to a
shed their moisture here for one nature reserve in the Usambaras nature reserve and hopefully more
30 million years. Most of the that are under the Department of will follow.
rain comes in the ‘Masika’ Forestry and Beekeeping, among
season (March to May) and them are Ndelemai near Soni, The jewel in the crown of the West
the East Usambaras get the Shagayu near Mtae, and Mkuzu near Usambaras is Mazumbai, a private
most rain as they are closest Magamba. These reserves are well reserve, quite remote - about 2
African Violet to the Indian Ocean. Over worth visiting, and the experience hours drive from Lushoto – and well
66 67
worth the effort to get there. It was blessed the place after feeling Natural Resources. They found the industry was doing well and tea was
owned by a Swiss family for a long thirsty and water came out. discovery special in human history, exported mainly to England. Today
time and is now owned by Sokoine particularly because of the
University, using it for student How to get there number of footprints found
practices. The sheer size of the There are two common ways to and the perfect condition
trees is breathtaking. Camping is reach Nilo by vehicle: from Muheza they are in. The footprints
allowed, and campers can relax in through Amani Nature Reserve via are at the surface, clearly
the old Swiss-style farmhouse. Derema to Kizerui gate (about 59 visible to the naked eye
Nilo Nature Reserve km); and from Korogwe township and at least 1.5 million
to Kizara gate via Magoma years old, so probably from
division and Kwentonge (78 predecessors of mankind.
Tea Plantation
km).
The footprints are found in a Tanzania produces 32,000 tons a
Fees sedimentary deposit, in a layer year (1% of the world’s harvest)
Contact the Nature Reserve left after a volcanic eruption. This and ranks fourth in Africa as a tea
or Tour Operators for more layer was still soft when people exporter, after Kenya, Malawi and
information. and animals passed. The layer must Uganda. Tea factories can be found
have been covered by sand or new in Muheza, Korogwe and Lushoto
Contact layers that over time again must districts. Plantation tea in Tanzania
Conservator have been washed or eroded away. is all of the Assam type. It is grown
Botanical Delight
( +255 (0)784 587 805 The sedimentary layer with the at high elevations in the tropics
+255 (0)754 609 497 footprints has become solid rock, a where it is warm and wet.
Nilo Nature Reserve is among the @ nilonaturereserve@ process which takes more than 1.5
East Usambara tropical rain forest yahoo.com million years. Tea is a tree which left unpruned
blocks covering an area of 6,025 ha. would grow to 10 metres; however
It is the second largest contiguous
forest block under protection after
Attractions Mambo Caves
Near Mambo caves have been
it is kept at 1 metre, a height
convenient for plucking. The most
Amani Nature Reserve. The Reserve Recent Discovery: discovered close to the footprints tender, fresh leaves are plucked.
was established in 2007. Madala Hominid with traces of very ancient habitation Pickers harvest 30-40 kg of leaves
Many ecotourism attractions can be Footprints - probably from the same species as a day, and 2-3 thousand tea leaves
visited in Nilo Reserve. The highest In April 2009 near Mambo, district those who left the foot prints. The are needed to produce a kilogram of
peaks of East Usambaras with an Lushoto in the Usambara Mountains caves must have been created due tea! In Tanga Region tea is produced
altitude of 1,506 m. (Nilo Peak) and a unique rock was discovered to a heavy earthquake causing big on big plantations and small family
1,400 (Lutindi Peak) are giving a by Ndege Chombo. The rock has rock falls. Earthquakes with heavy farms. Near Korogowe there are 77
clear 360° view of the East and West many footprints from predecessors impact are not known in recent family farmers who sell the tea to
Usambaras. Further attractions are of human beings as well as Tanzania history, which indicates the nearby factory.
the Tuvui and Zumbe kuu waterfalls from different animals. Since these sites are very ancient.
and the traditional worship areas then different expeditions were A visit to a tea factory or farms
are found at Lutindi peak and organized with history professor Mr. Tea in the Usambaras is most interesting; ask a tour
Kwemkole village called ‘Hundu’ Mgema from the National Historic Tea was first planted in the 1902 operator! After the visit you are
as well as the Holy water point - a Documentary Films Production by German settlers. Large-scale sure to be offered a cup of the
historical point where according and Mr. Jumanne Gekora Maburi, commercial production began golden-brown beverage!
to the local legend once a Bishop archaeologist at the Ministry of in 1926 and by the 1960´s the
68 69
 but once the tree cover seems that coffee, as
is removed they become a plantation crop, had
Coffee barren landscape after a been abandoned.
Cultivation few years. The Germans
in the West had to learn this lesson With the failure of the
Usambaras at a great loss 100 years coffee in the Usambaras
ago. Unfortunately, to the Germans looked for
The Germans looked this day the belief lingers other crops to plant in
at the resources of on, that tall tropical its place. These included
the Usambaras in a forest signifies abundant tree crops such as
completely different soil fertility. black wattle (grown for
way from the indigenous the tannin in its bark)
inhabitants. They were In 1886 the “Deutsch- and the quinine tree
interested in economic ostafrikanische from Peru (also grown
development of the Plantagengesellschaft” for its bark for the
colony, especially for was formed as the first extraction of quinine,
exporting agricultural German plantation in an anti-malaria drug).
products to Germany. the Usambaras. The Other tree crops were
Three main areas in primary crop of the first fruit trees like apples,
the country were set plantations was coffee, peaches, pears and
aside for plantation and the plantation plums, still produced to
agriculture, one being establishment was at this day. Tea, as a coffee
the Usambaras. the expense of species- replacement, proved to
diverse montane forest. be more resilient to the
In the 1880´s magnificent, The first estate in the poor quality soils.
dense, high forest western Usambaras was
covered most of the Sakare, established in Irente, it seems, was one
Usambaras, and early 1896, with 20,000 Coffea of these experimental
white travellers were full liberica shrubs planted coffee estates from the
of enthusiasm about their in the first year, and a last century. The name
lush verdance. Seeing further 200,000 planned. “Irente Coffee Estate”
such fine forests, these By 1897 there were a lingered on into 1961
travellers concluded that total of 1.25 million when the Lutheran
the forests were growing shrubs of Coffea arabica church bought it and the
on exceedingly fertile planted in the Usambaras name changed to Irente
soils. One of them Farler, on 600 ha, with a further farm. Lately it is known
reported that “No more million shrubs planned. as Irente Biodiversity
fertile soil could be found However, yields started Reserve, where you
in the world.” As it turns shrinking and shrubs may still see patches
out, he could not have failed and even the of coffee shrubs still
been more wrong. Today introduction of manure growing, living symbols
it is known that tropical in 1905 did not improve of the failed dreams of
forests look very fertile, the yields. By 1914 it these early colonists.

70 71
 further through forest and steep and juice “factories” and the royal
cultivated slopes to reach Lushoto, village of Kwembago. Enjoy a picnic
half an hour beyond Soni and 34 lunch, rye bread and cheese at
km from Mombo. Lushoto is the Irente Biodiversity Reserve. A visit
biggest town in the Usambaras to Irente Children’s Home, Irente
with a population of over 400,000, School for the blind and the Rainbow
a friendly place in a very beautiful school can also be arranged.
setting among high forested peaks.
Usambara Farms & Flora (4-5hrs)
Attractions This walk takes you through the
fertile farm lands of Jaegertal
Lushoto is among Tanzania’s popular (German for ‘Hunters Valley’) to a

Lushoto
cultural tourism programs. The fruit tree nursery where you can
tourist office is opened daily 7.30- learn about different varieties of
18.00. The West Usambara Cultural fruit trees and their propagation.
History, natural, Tourism Program offers over a dozen
different guided tours around West
You can continue uphill to the village
of Vuli to visit local soil conservation
cultural & built colonial settlement and plantation Usambara, ranging from three-hour and irrigation projects. You return
heritage agriculture. Located at 1,400 m strolls to a challenging five day to Lushoto via the arboretum.
The first European to reach Lushoto above sea level, the climate is bicycle trip to Moshi via the Pare
was the Missionary Johann Ludwig cool and subtropical and up to Mountains. (see below for contacts Magamba Rainforest (5-6hrs)
Krapf who in 1849 was given a warm independence much favoured by of local tour guides and operators) This tour begins with an uphill
welcome by king Kimweri I. In 1886 European settlers. In 1912, the walk from Lushoto to the royal
the German colonists entered the district already had 13 plantations One Day
Usambaras and persuaded the local growing vegetables, fruits, tea, walking tour
chiefs to sign away their domain for coffee and a variety of other food Montessori Sisters of Ubiri
a pittance. The subsequent German crops. (3-4hrs)
advance was made easier because This tour takes you for a
- in the later half of the nineteenth Lushoto is the administrative centre short walk from Lushoto to
century - Usambara was racked by of the Western Usambara Mountains the Catholic Mission of the
chaos. The slave trade had started and has several colonial buildings Montessori Sisters in Ubiri.
to invade the mountains, while at that are still being used, such as the At this beautiful landscaped
the same time the Sambaa-Kilindi- former District Office (still the same mission you can taste, learn
Dynasty was caught up in a civil today) and the historical Post office about and buy locally made
war against the Bondei tribe who (built in 1913), as well as several cheese, wines and jams.
wanted independence. solid European style residential
plantation houses scattered in the Irente View Point (5-6hrs) Irente View Point
After consolidating their rule, surrounding valleys of the Usambara From the famous Irente
the German Colonial Government Mountains. Viewpoint you see the village of village of Kwembago, where you
founded today’s Lushoto in 1898 Mazinde almost 1,000 metres below learn about the cultural history
as “Wilhelmsthal” (after the name When driving up the mountains, and the vast Maasai Plains beyond. of the traditional ruling clan, the
of the German emperor), which the scenery becomes even more On the return trip to Lushoto you Kilindi. From Kwembago you have a
became an important centre of spectacular past Soni as you wind can visit the Irente cheese, jam beautiful view of Lushoto and the
72 73
Maasai plains. You proceed to the over the Maasai plains. Before Kwamongo and Magila. From
lush Magamba rainforest, home to returning to Lushoto you visit a local there, the walk continues
black and white colobus monkeys. farm or tree nursery. to the Bumbuli Mission and
The return to Lushoto passes via Hospital, an historic German
an old German middle school (now Several Days settlement, where you can
Sekuco University) and the village walking tours from stay overnight. The walk
of Magamba. Lushoto continues to the Mazumbai
rain forest reserve, a bird
Growing rock Mtae (3-5days) watchers paradise. After
From Soni you walk to the top of From Lushoto you pass through enjoying the forest you Calla Lily
Kwamongo Mountain peak, famous a tropical rain forest trek over return to Soni via the village
for its multicoloured butterflies, via mountains and through valleys to of Mgwashi and Kwesine. : Health
the village of Shashui and Kwemula. the villages of Lukozi, Manolo and Lushoto District Hospital
From Kwamongo you have views of Sunga before finally reaching your Facts & Figures Private clinic in Lushoto
destination at the historical Lushoto Mabwawani Dispensary,
village of Mtae. There are Dr. Mtunguja
several viewpoints in Mtae Main Transport fares(2010) ( +255 (0)784 459 118
area: Mtae View Point and v Bus Open 7.30 am - 4.00 pm weekdays.
Mambo View Point, with a To/from: Tsh Hours Saturday and Sunday closed
breathtaking view of the Dar es Salaam 12,000 (~ 8.5) Bumbuli Lutheran Hospital
African plains. To reduce Arusha 12,000 (~ 7) (50 km from Lushoto)
walking time, catch the bus Moshi 10,000 (~ 5) ( +255 (0)27 26 40361
to Mtae. Tanga 7,000 (~ 4) Pharmacies along the main street
Soni Waterfalls
Mlalo (3-4 days) The buses usually leave in the * Shopping
Mlalo has an alluring famous morning both from and to Lushoto. Markets and small shops
old German church and The buses to Tanga leave throughout Around the Central Market close to
missionary station, now the day; the first one starts at 06.00 the bus station you’ll find small shops
hosting a secondary school. am and the last bus leaves at 04.00 for food and clothing like kangas
Soni, Lushoto and Handeni plains. The walk from Lushoto to Mlalo and pm. The direct buses to Moshi, and kitenge. The market is open
Your descent is to the village of back takes three or four days with Arusha and Dar es Salaam leave every day, good days are Sunday and
Magila at the foot of the growing some sections travelling by bus. It’s early in the morning. An alternative Thursday in Lushoto and Tuesday and
rock. best combined with a visit to Mtae. to direct buses: take a minibus Friday in Soni.
The walk goes through Magamba to Mombo junction at the foot of
Bangala River tour (5-6hrs) forest; Mtumbi Hill (Usambaras the mountain to connect to other Arts & Crafts
From the village of Mbuzii you highest mountain) can be climbed destinations. Mombo is a big stopover Irente Biodiversity Reserve
weave slowly down the slopes of the from here. Several good markets place with several restaurants and (Irente Farm)
Bangala river valley at times wading are in the area; in Kileti village the a fresh food market. Buses into the 5 km from Lushoto
through cool mountain streams that main attraction is pottery. mountains (e.g. Mtae, Mlalo, Mlola) organic jams and juices, muesli,
offer a welcome relief to the rising depart around 01.30 pm; buses to rye bread, tilsiter cheese, cottage
savannah heat. Throughout the Mazumbai Forest (4-5 days) Bumbuli and Mgwashi leave in the cheese, yoghurt
walk you see traditional irrigation This physically challenging walk afternoon from Soni junction (15 Montessori Sisters
systems and have beautiful views begins in Soni and passed via km from Lushoto). in Ubiri
74 75
78 79
www.UsambaraMountains.com
 Mambo / Mtae
(60km from town)
MamboViewPoint
 Reservations:
www.MamboViewPoint.org
[email protected]
tel +255 785 272 150
In case of no anwer +255 774 272 150

Mambo / Mtae
2 hrs drive from Lushoto

Daily direct busses from

Arusha,
Dar es Salaam and Tanga
 To allow township expansion the – traditional fishing - Narrow
government decided to relocate Bank of river where locals fear
offices from old Korogwe to drowning if they cross because of
Manundu area, now referred to as a mysterious gravity pull (hence
New Korogwe. The combination ‘Ruvu Maajabu’).
of the two areas now form the
Korogwe Township. For more information contact the
Cultural Tourism Program at Motel
Attractions White Parrot:
( +255 (0)27 26 41068
Korogwe Cultural Tourism +255 (0)715 340 776
Biking Trails +255 (0)713 299 935

Korogwe
Kilole Ruvu Canoeing Trail (4–5 hrs) @ [email protected]
Rice plantations - Kilole Village -
Coconut Wine Bar - Minazini Lutindi
Korogwe is located on the western Korogwe town is at the back door Vijana Uwanjani - Leprosy camp Eco-Cultural Tourism
side of Tanga Region at the foot of the Amani Nature Reserve (see Ruins Lutindi is part of the Usambara
of the Usambara Mountains. It is Muheza part for more information). Korogwe hydrometric station Mountains and located on the
easily accessed by road from Tanga, Between the town and the Reserve Fishing - Wire River crossing escarpments of the Eastern Arc
Dar es Salaam, Moshi, Arusha and lie tea estates and beautiful Mountains close to Korogwe,
other regions of Tanzania. Korogwe mountain forest. Ndemaha Water Falls (4–6 hrs) surrounded by beautiful scenery.
district has high mountains and flat Old Korogwe - TANU Memorial This place is a good starting point
plains with sisal plantations. These History, natural, Gibril Park - Sisal Estates to explore the mountains.
mountains are part of the Eastern
Arc Mountains. It lies between 400
cultural & built Old Korogwe Trail (4–5 hrs) Lutindi is famous for the Mental
and 1,550 m above sea level and heritage Points of interest: Hospital (the first in East Africa)
the annual rainfall ranges between Korogwe town is divided into two Rice plantation - Nyumbu founded by German missionaries in
600-1,000 mm. The district has areas: Old and New Korogwe. The Village - Old Korogwe - Anglican 1896. Two Germans were given land
the population of about 270,000 town was founded by a person known Mission 1886 - TANU monument on the mountains from the village
people. as Nkorogwe from the Zigua people. Gibril Park - Kitopeni Village chief where they founded the
He came from the Nguu Mountains hospital. Guided tours are offered
The main source of water of Korogwe (Kilindi) and settled in the area. He Hiking Trails
town is Pangani ‘Ruvu’ river. ‘Ruvu’ was so famous that after his death Zungumat Hill (4-6 hrs)
means ‘never dry water channel’ people honoured him by naming the Treasure hunting site -
in Zigua tribal language; the Zigua settlement ‘Korogwe’ after him. Sienna siamea - Mitiki
people originate from this area. The tree
Pangani river gets its water from In Korogwe the colonial government zone - View points
Mt. Kilimanjaro, passing through built a Boma offices that can be
the dam Nyumba ya Mungu (‘God’s visited. The Anglican missionaries Ruvu Maajabu (‘Ruvu
House’) nearby Korogwe, reaching built their first church in 1886, still wonders’)
the Indian Ocean near Pangani existing today. (15 minutes driving)
town. Msambiazi Village -
River stone and rocks Market

82 83
through the hospital compound with times as ‘Bismarck’s head’. This Facts & black is sold at Lutindi HKorogwe
interesting insights into hospital
routines, the Tanzanian health
tour is for people with climbing
experience.
Figures Mental Hospital. Hotels
s-single, d-double
system and several projects like a Korogwe Markets &
sisal workshop and tea production. The hospital runs a workshop where small shops White House Inn
colourful carpets, doormats or Main Transport Around the Central ( +255 (0)27 26 40554
The community-based cultural- tablemats are made from local sisal. fares (2010) Market close to the +255 (0)754 822 775
eco-tourism group offers tours to This is occupational therapy for the v Bus bus station you’ll s-20,000/25,000
the nearby attractions like walking patients. A tea production unit with To/from: Tsh Hours find small shops for d-25,000/30,000
safaris into the indigenous forests organic classic black tea blended Tanga 3,000 (~ 2) food and clothing like White Parrot Motel
and through villages to spectacular with different spices is situated on Moshi 7,000 (~ 4.5) kangas and kitenge. ( +255 (0)27 26 41068
view points: the grounds, and much more is to Arusha 8,000 (~ 6) The market is open s-35,000/50,000
be explored and to learn about this Lushoto 3,500 (~ 3) every day. d-40,000/60,000
old missionary site. Korogwe Transit Hotel
Direct buses to/from Supermarket ( +255 (0)715 700 445
Full board accommodation Tanga, Dar es Salaam, Near the Bus stand, 8.00 +255 (0)783 451 233
is offered on the hospital Lushoto, Arusha, Moshi am - 4.30 pm d-20,000
compound in a small guest and Mwanza pass daily Lutindi Mental Hospital
house. Camping is possible through Korogwe. The @ Internet Guest House
on suitable areas. town is situated half Internet service is ( +255 (0)27 26 41040
The income of all these way between Arusha available in town. +255 (0)764 414 491
activities helps run the and Dar es Salaam. @ lutindi-hospital@
hospital and is used for l Money elct.org
nature conservation projects : Health NMB Korogwe, operating s-18,000 d-36,000
Hiking in the villages. Magunga District an ATM without VISA or
Hospital MasterCard services Segera Junction
Short walks (30 minutes to 2 hours) How to get there Anglican Mission CRDB Korogwe Branch, 20 km from Korogwe
lead to Lutindi View, Point Masusu From Korogwe follow the main road Hospital operating an ATM for Segera Highway Motel
or to the nearby tea fields. to Msambiazi village. There you Kwandolwa Sisters VISA card, MasterCard, ( +255 (0)27 26 40815
Half day tours (4-5 hours) will be turn right and continue 13 km on Convert Plus, Maestro, Circus. +255 (0)715 982 506
guided to the Magamba View Point a winding road up the mountain. Hospital Hours: 8.30 am – 4.00 s-22,000 d-30,000
and through the lush rainforest, There is a connecting road to get Lutindi Mental Hospital pm (Mon-Fri), 8.30 am – camping-5 USD
where you easily see chameleons to Lushoto, 80 km distance on a 1.30 pm (Sat)
and Colobus monkeys. A special panoramic road via Bumbuli and Pharmacies HKorogwe
attraction is: you are guaranteed to Sakarani Mission in Soni (a map can along the main streets * Post Restaurants
see the famous African violet! be provided for this drive). Situated along the Korogwe
* Shopping highway, near to NMB Highway Restaurant
A full day trip goes to the 1,450 Contact Arts & Craft BANK Hours: 8.00 am – local food
m high Mashindei Mountain. This Lutindi Cultural-Eco Tourism Group Colourful sisal doormats 4.30 pm (Mon-Fri), 9.00 White Parrot Motel
tour takes about 8 to 9 hours and ( +255 (0) 27 26 41040 and other sisal articles am – 1.00 pm (Sat) local food
is a challenging experience. You can +255 (0)764 414 491 as well as spiced tea
climb the peak of this remarkable +255 (0)753 101 618 like orange, cinnamon,
mountain known during colonial @ [email protected] cardamom or plain
84 85
 for the evolution of an astonishing ago, the oldest ones already in
rich and complex tropical rainforest the 1920s. In fact, the core of the
ecosystem – in fact the second most present ANR consists of six previous
biodiversity place in Africa. Forest Reserves namely Kwamkoro,
Kwamsambia, Mnyuzi scarp, Amani
Amani Nature Reserve Zigi, Amani East and Amani West.
This mountainous and heavily However, this legal status was
forested reserve leads to the considered insufficient for an area of
most accessible part of the East such high biodiversity conservation
Usambaras and is one of Tanzania’s values and hence Amani Nature
most attractive and under-visited Reserve was proposed.
destinations. Amani means peace

Muheza
in Kiswahili. The Reserve offers People are thought to have been
beautiful scenery, unusual and living in the East Usambara
wonderful flora and fauna, a Mountains for even more than
Muheza is a small district town in the grave stones with them. Thankfully constant chorus of cicadas and tree 2,000 years. The oldest settlements
North East of Tanzania 35 km inland things have changed. By the 1920’s frogs, joined by the screeching of known within the area date back
from Tanga City. It lies at the foot of Magila was a thriving community bush babies at night. In the Reserve to early iron age in the 3rd century
the East Usambara Mountains on the with a school, hospital and convent. is one of Africa’s largest botanical AD. Most of Amani plateau was
edge of the coastal plain. Until July In time however - especially with gardens with enough linking trails densely forested with scattered
2007 Muheza District stretched from the rail and road links - the nearby through primeval rainforest to keep settlements concentrated mainly
the Kenyan border to just north of Muheza village became the district you in raptures (or blisters packs) for along the western escarpment. The
the Pangani river, with a total area town. a whole week, even if your interest indigenous dwellers of the Amani
of 4,922 km². 90% of the 280,000 in botanical things is limited to the plateau were the Washambaa.
population lived in the rural areas. Attractions greens on your plate. During the German colonial era from
In July 2007 Muheza District was split East Usambara Mountains the 1890’s forest land was cleared
in two roughly along the line of the Some 40 km inland from the Location for agriculture plantations. At the
Zigi river with Mkinga District to the Indian Ocean the mountains of Amani Nature Reserve (ANR) is same time, forest conservation
north and Muheza to the south. East Usambara rise abruptly from located in Muheza and Korogwe was emphasised as well and eight
the coastal low lands, their steep districts. The main access to the forest reserves were established
History, natural, escarpments levelling off about a ANR is via Muheza town. The in the East Usambaras by 1913.
cultural & built kilometre above sea level into a
deeply furrowed plateau. The range
distance from Tanga to Amani HQ
is 65 km and 35 km from Muheza,
In 1902 the Germans established
a research centre – ‘Biologisch-
heritage is separated both physically and passing along the Sigi Information Landwirtschaftliches Institut‘ - at
In the 1870’s Anglican missionaries biologically from West Usambaras by Centre (25 km from Muheza). Amani which concentrated on
were given land by the local chief the 4 km wide Lwengera Valley. With biological and agricultural research.
in a rocky area at the foot of the the exception of the dry low lands History
Magoroto Hill at a place called Magila to the north the climate is warm and Amani Nature Reserve (ANR) was
where a leper colony was already humid influenced by the proximity of officially gazetted on 8th May
established. Mostly because of the Indian Ocean. Rainfall averages 1997, with an area of 8,380 ha
malaria, missionaries of that era had 2,000 mm a year, which together and a boundary of 149 km. Most
a life expectancy of 18 months when with deeply weathered red loam of the forests around Amani were
they arrived and they brought their soils has created ideal conditions gazetted as Forest Reserves decades Chameleon

86 87
It was the first of its kind in Africa. and Forestry Research Institute. for the diversity of their flora and
During the same time Amani In 1951 all herbarium collections, fauna, and for the remarkably
Botanical Garden with an area of staff and equipment of the station high degree of endemic plants
about 360 ha was established. were moved to Muguga, Nairobi and and animals found in the forests
the silvicultural research activities (i.e. species that occur only here
Commercial logging of timber began to Lushoto. The buildings were and nowhere else in the world).
during the German colonial era. later handed over to the National For instance, over 500 birds and View Point

Logging by the Germans at Amani Institute for Medical Research who 1,921 indigenous vascular plant big waterfalls namely Derema and
was conducted mainly through the occupies the area to date. species have been reported from the Ndola; three picnic sites – supplied
extraction of Ocotea usambarensis, East Usambaras alone. Among these with sanitary equipment – invite
Milicia excelsa and Beilschmiedia Sawmilling gained momentum there are as many as 64 endemic taking a rest from hiking.
kweo. A railway line and a station accompanied by industrial logging or near-endemic plant species
master’s house were constructed at from early 1970’s. Mainly Sikh (near-endemics occur also in a few To allow visitors to walk around the
Zigi to facilitate logging between Sawmills with support from adjacent Eastern Arc mountains Reserve on their own, nine trails have
the years 1904-1910. Sawmills were Finland contributed to the that have a similar environment been labelled, mapped and well
installed at Kwamkoro and Zigi rapid deforestation of Amani. and geological history). Perhaps documented in the leaflets and trail
during the logging period. However, due to global concern the most famous of all are the 11 guide books which are available at
on the biological and watershed African Violets (Saintpaulia spp.), the Reserve HQ: Mbomole Hill Trail,
During the British colonial era, more conservation values, the Finnish one species of which (S.ionantha) Monga Trail, Ndola Trail, Turaco Bird
forest reserves were established Government was convinced Baron von Saint-Paul-Illaire, the Trail, Kwamkoro Nature Trail, Derema
and by 1942 the reserved area had to cease logging and support then German commissioner to Trail, Zigi Trail, Amani Research
about doubled in the Usambaras. reforestation instead. In 1989, the Tanga, brought to Europe for the Centre Tour, and Sigi Spice Tour.
Tea plantations were created in East Usambara Conservation and first time in the year 1891. Since
1940’s at the Amani plateau with Agricultural Development Project then, this small, lovely herbaceous Some walks pass by the Lwengera
a consequence of clearing some was formulated and in 1990 the plant has continued its victorious village historical and cultural sites
East Usambara Catchment world conquest on windowsills. like sacred caves and the remains
Forest Project was established of an Iron Age fort settlement.
with support from FINNIDA and Activities Bird watching
IUCN. One of its main objectives These following activities are More than 500 bird species has been
was to create Amani Nature offered in the reserve: hiking, recorded in East Usambara and most
Reserve. walking on trails in the nature forest are found in Amani Nature Reserve.
Amani and nature drives, night walks, Many bird watchers visitsAmani looking
Biodiversity of the camping, butterfly farming visit and for endemic and endangered birds
natural forests. The British built a East Usambara Mountains bird watching. including Usambara Eagle Owl (Bubo
small hydropower station at Zigi to The Usambaras stand out as an vosseleri), Usambara Weaver (Ploseus
provide electricity for Amani. exceptionally diversified ecosystem The three view points are a special nicolli), Amani Sun bird (Anthreptes
The Amani Research Centre was in mainland Africa and are ranked as attraction in the Nature Reserve. pallidigaster) and Long Billed Tailorbird
re-opened under the name of the one of the 25 biodiversity hotspots You can observe the land pattern (Orthotomus moreaui).
East African Agricultural Research and centres of plant diversity of the East Usambaras as well as
Station. Later, forestry was made in the world. Their biological the agricultural peasants and tea Amani Botanical Garden
one of the important research significance has been compared estates from Kiganga Hill, Ngua One of Africa’s largest Botanical
components and the name was to the Galapagos Islands. The and Mbomole Hill viewpoints. Gardens (founded 1902) the garden
changed to be EastAfricaAgricultural mountains are known world-wide Further attractions are the two contains more than four hundred tree
88 89
species (both indigenous and exotic) both guest houses. Facts & Two buses to Amani There are now 2 ATM
and over 300 species of butterfly.
Two campsites are available in the
Figures leave Muheza between
01.00 pm and 02.00
but you cannot change
traveler cheques.
How to get there Reserve - one with fixed water closet Muheza pm and pass Amani to
From Muheza the Amani Nature at ANR HQ, the second one (Kiganga) Main Transport Kwamkoro or Bulwa. * Post
Reserve is well indicated, leading on allowing mobile sanitary system. fares (2010) Situated by the
a rough (all weather) road to Longuza v Bus : Health market, near NMB
plantation forest. A 4-wheel-drive Other nearby guest houses include To/from: Tsh Hours Teule District Hospital BANK, Hours: 8.00 am
car is required for continuing uphill the Emau Hill Forest Camp, Amani Tanga 1,500 (~ 1) Muheza town – 4.30 pm (Mon-Fri),
to the Zigi gate (9 km from ANR HQ) Hill Guest House, the Roman Moshi 9,000 (~ 4.5) ( +255 (0)27 26 44121 9.00 am – 1.00 pm
and to Amani. After the Zigi gate Catholic Mission and Malikitanda Arusha 10,000 (~ 6) 07.30 am - 03.30 pm (Sat)
you will pass through the botanical Tea Research (for details see Lushoto 5,000 (~ 3) @ www.teule.or.tz
garden until you reach the Amani Facts&Figures in Muheza). muhezaddh@
Nature Reserve Headquarters, which All direct buses to/ kaributanga.com HMuheza
is at the crest of the ridge. Conference from Tanga going Hotels
Amani Nature Reserve has one large to Dar es Salaam, * Shopping s-single, d-double
Fees conference facility. Internet facility Lushoto, Arusha, Moshi Shopping in Muhewaza
Contact the Nature Reserve or Tour is accessible at the HQ. and Mwanza pass daily is limited. Around the Muheza Town
Operators for more information. through Muheza. The Central Market in the Golden Land Motel
Butterfly Farming town is situated half town centre a little ( +255 (0)27 26 41242
Contacts The Amani Butterfly Project is one way between Segera up the hill, you’ll find +255 (0)719 002 261
Conservator of the uniquely livelihood projects and Tanga. small shops for food and @ motelg.land@
Amani Nature Reserve which are currently implemented clothing like kangas and yahoo.com
( +255 (0)27 26 40313 in the East Usambaras. It became Vehicles heading to kitenge. The market is s-25,000 d-30,000
@ amaninaturereservefbd@ operational in 2003 following Amani Nature Reserve open every day.
yahoo.com various awareness and mobilization sometimes start at the Amani
www.amaninature.org meetings and trainings in butterfly bus stand, some buses @ Internet Nature Reserve
farming and environmental tend to hang around at There is an internet Sigi Rest House
Accommodation education activities. Today the the start of the road cafe at the central gas ( +255 (0)27 26 40313
Two Guest houses are situated in project aims at promoting butterfly to Amani; walk 200 station with limited @ amaninature
Amani Nature Reserve: one built farming in the East Usambara m into town from the access. Some hotels in reservefbd@
at the lower side known as Zigi Mountains and the conservation of bus stand (the stand Amani Nature Reserve yahoo.com
Rest House and another one at the the local biodiversity and to create is on your left) and and in the area offer s-10,000
ANR Headquarters in Amani village, a model for future insect/ butterfly where road forks, bear internet access. Amani Medical
offering self-contained rooms. Food farming projects in other areas of right and turn right Research Centre
and drinks services are provided at Tanzania again. The unmarked l Money ( +255 (0)27 26 40313
stand for Amani is 50 NMB (near the market) s-25,000 d-30,000
Contact m along on the left is the only bank Emau Forest Camp
( +255 (0)784 802 899 before the railway operating in Muheza, ( +255 (0)782 656 526
+255 (0)655 802 899 crossing opposite the offering to change cash @ [email protected]
@ papilio@ encouraging named money only. Hours: 8.30 www.emauhill.com
amanibutterfly ‘Death Row Electronics’ am – 4.00 pm Mon-Fri, for prices see website
Rural Road project.org shop. 8.30 am – 1.30 pm Sat.
90 91
 570 mm in the lowland to 1,910 mm Euro-Africa migrant birds.
in the highland. The temperature The Mkomazi National Park is the
varies from 18 to 29 ºC; July and south most extension of Sahel in
August being the coolest months. East Africa and the second largest
trans-frontier protected area in East
Vegetation Cover Africa after the famous Serengeti
Mkomazi National Park is within National Park.
the Sudanian phytogeographical
zone dominated by Acacia and What to do
Commiphora woodland species. Its Operational Activities
vegetation is characterized by two • Day game watching
physiognomic types: the dry upland • Guided walking safaris

Mkomazi National Park

forest in the western mountainous • Bird watching
area, and plain vegetations with • Eco–tourism in the villages
bushed and wooded grassland. adjacent to the Mkomazi NP
The Mkomazi National Park is halfway between Kilimanjaro and Tanga
between Arusha and Tanga. This Region; its northern border is the Wild Animals Rhino and Wild dog viewing will
route goes through Mkomazi and the Tsavo West National Park in Kenya. The Park is rich in giraffes, Coke’s be gradually introduced using the
Usambara Mountains, and thus offers The Park is 130 km long from east to hartebeests, buffalos, gerenuks, experience from Kenya Wildlife
perfect stopovers from the northern west and 41 km from north to south. Grant gazelles, Lesser kudus and Service (Tsavo West and Meru
parks and Kilimanjaro to the Indian Water bucks. Larger carnivores National Parks). Guidelines for rhino
Ocean and Tanga Region. Physical Features include lions, leopards, hyenas, silver- viewing will be used to monitor and
The northern part of Mkomazi backed jackals, wild dogs and wild control the activity in the Special
History National Park is highly dominated cats. The largest terrestrial mammal Use Zone.
The word Mkomazi is coined from by the northern Pare - Usambara - the elephant – lives in the Park too!
the Pare language, which is a mountain range arc in Tanzania, Facilities & Services
combination of the two words ‘Mko’ formed of metamorphic rocks. Attractions • Tracks for game watching
(a traditional wooden spoon used The Park’s altitude varies between and site seeing
by the Pare people for eating) and 900 – 1,600 metres above sea Mkomazi has a great diversity • Tourist guiding
‘Mazi’ (water). This suggests that level. The open plains consist of of landscapes with small mosaic • Camping service (at both
the water in the Park is too scarce Precambrian rocks covered with habitat types, creating niches for a public and special campsites)
to even fill a wooden spoon. Indeed, superficially alluvial soil deposits. rich biodiversity. This makes it one • Tours into Mkomazi NP can be
the Park lacks water sources due to The predominant soils in the Park of the richest savannahs in Africa organized by local tour
little rainfall in the area. are the red to reddish brown sandy and possibly in the world with operators (see pages 13 & 77)
clays, which cover hills and ridges. rare and endemic fauna and
Mkomazi Game Reserve was flora, e.g. the Black rhinos
upgraded to the highest conservation Climate and Wild dogs. It is the only
status by being declared as a The climate of Mkomazi National Park in Tanzania with large
National Park with a size of 3,245 Park is semi-arid. The long rains and visible population of
km² on 14th March 2008. occur between February and May, Gerenuk (Litocranius walleri)
while the short ones last from and massive concentrations of
Location September through November. Oryx (Oryx beisa). In addition,
Mkomazi National Park is located Mean annual rainfall ranges from it forms a special habitat for Zebras

92 93
MamboViewPoint (Mtae/Usambara Mtns)
+255 (0)78 52 72150
[email protected]
 blocked the entrance to Tanga port. Japanese attack. The underground
Kronborg transported supplies for bunkers, holding generators for anti
the German troops under Colonel submarine loops, gun placements
Von Lettow-Vorbeck and the famed and living quarters are still there
and embattled German warship today. (See detailed information:
Königsberg that was hiding in the http://indicatorloops.com/
vast Rufiji delta in the south, after manza.htm)
she had sunk the British cruiser
Pegasus in Zanzibar port in 1914. Maboza is the fishing village right
When chased and under fire from along the main road where the
the British warship Hyacinth, ‘dagaa’ fisherman land early in the
Kronborg’s captain beached her morning to sell their nightly catches.

Mkinga, Handeni, Kilindi

inside Manza Bay and set the
timber deck cargo alight, making Moa bay is an important site of
the British believe that the ship was ancient Arabic settlements and
Tanga Region has three more boat building are the prime coastal destroyed. After Hyacinth had given culture. In the days of the sisal
Districts that are a little bit further activities. her up and departed, the Germans boom, the local sisal growers
off the beaten track, but provide extinguished the fire, set up a shipped their produce out of Moa.
interesting features for tourists. Further inland, agriculture takes base on land (still called “Boma” They used a small gauge railway
precedence with coconut, sisal, peninsula today) and recovered that has unfortunately not survived.
Mkinga cashew, fruit plantations as well as most of Kronborg’s supplies
Mkinga in the north of Tanga City livestock keeping. of arms and ammunitions.
stretches up to the Kenyan border These allowed Lettow-
and Mombasa, via Horohoro border Offshore activities Vorbeck to continue the war
post (66 km from Tanga). Mkinga is Offshore, several beautiful reefs until after the armistice in
one of Tanzania’s newest districts, with sand bars pop up at low tide; 1918. Kronborg remained a
dissected from the vast Muheza snorkelling, diving, sailing, fishing partly submerged wreck in
district. New District headquarters is well worth the time. Many local Manza Bay until 1956, when
andplannedsurroundingsettlements fisherman and boat owners would she was salvaged and towed
are currently constructed, and the be happy to take people out to these to Dar es Salaam and her
Sport Fishing
road from Tanga to Horohoro will be diverse and ‘untouched’ places. The remaining cargo of coal sold
(soon) upgraded to tarmac. famed Pemba channel is known for its to the East African Railways and Relics of the shipping store and jetty
billfish fishing, including six different Harbours, thus powering trains and can still be seen.
The road north takes you past species: black, blue and striped ships 40 years after being brought
several fishing villages including marlin, broadbill swordfish, sailfish to East Africa! The wreck is still Duga is the last settlement before
Chongoleani, Kwale, Boma and the rare shortbill spearfish. indicated in today’s marine maps, reaching the border and has the
peninsula, Maboza, and Moa. The but nothing can be found at the site main police station in this area.
coastline follows an extremely Manza Bay was the site of several anymore.
irregular pattern including huge military and naval deployments The valley of the Umba river borders
bays (Kwale, Manza and Moa) and both in the 1st and 2nd World During WW2 the Allies used the the Mkomazi National Park and is
vast mangrove forests dispersed Wars. During WW1 in 1915, the Manza Bay entrance to set up the site of numerous gemstone
with occasional beaches. Fishing as German ship Kronborg took refuge part of the East African coastal mines, being inhabited by Maasai
well as sea salt manufacturing and in Manza Bay when British warships defences against an imminent pastoralists.
96 97
There is one Hotel in Mkinga Bwawani Hotel
offering standard accommodation: outside Chanika, foot of Handeni
Fish Eagle Point Hill, self-contained Rondavels Sisal Plantation
Mkadini beach, 40 km from Tanga 15,000/25,000
City on Mombasa Road, turn off Sawe Hotel Sea Turtle

to Manza or also known as Boma middle of town, near post office

Peninsula self-contained rooms
( +255 (0)784 346 006 20,000
+255 (0)782 748 698 Mama Zekuze
@ [email protected] near German Boma and District
[email protected] Hospital, self-contained rooms
www.fisheaglepoint.com 10,000/15,000
(fb) 65/100 USD p.p.

Handeni Kilindi
West of Handeni and very much
Handeni is the home of the Maasai off the beaten tracks is Kilindi. Its
Plain. It opens sheer endlessly from rural atmosphere with no major
the Usambara Mountains southwards. settlements gives an interesting
Visiting Maasai Villages can be a insight in the life of local farmers,
superb highlight of a Tanzania trip if still lived by two thirds of the
organized by tour operators. Tanzanian citizens.

There are few hotels in Handeni town
offering standard accommodation: The lack of tarmac roads makes a
visit of Kilindi quite challenging,
requiring local guidance.
98 99
 Bombo Hospital, Tanga City

Hotel Kaiserhof, Tanga City

Old Pangani Town

Forest Carved Door

Ngalawa Farm near Lushoto

 Acknowledgements
We really wish to thank the following people for going out of their way and spending
Sponsors many hours of volunteer work to make this Tourism Guide possible: Alex Berg,
Laurent Herman, Musa Dengo, Herman Erdtsieck, Ikwabe Koroso, Anette & Peter
Murless, Halima Omari, Christoph Pörksen, Sibylle Riedmiller, Cindy Wenzel and
the many contributors correcting and improving sections of the guide. This book
was written under the supervision of the former City Director of Tanga, Mr. Majuto
Mbuguyu, and the acting City Director of Tanga, M. J. Gikene.
Special thanks to our graphic designer Camiel Dhooge.

Some texts are based on a variety of public sources,

incl. URITHI newsletters and regional web pages.

Picture Credits
E. Grotenhuis (covers), L. Schoonman
(URITHI), M. Pörksen, S. Riedmiller,
A. & P. Murless, A. Maas, Kiboko,
H. Heile, M. Yllera, D. Marty, K. LUSHOTO
Hissmann/J.Schauer, L. Mundt, K.
Langjahr, C. Wenzel, H. Erdtsiek,
N. Schneider, R. Suter, Mkomazi &
Saadani National Parks (TANAPA) MKINGA

KOROGWE
TANGA
MUHEZA

KILINDI PANGANI

HANDENI

Writing, editing and designing of this guide has been done entirely as volunteer work.
Contact
For feedback, suggestions and updates please contact
Printing of the first edition of this guide has been financed by the Tanga City Council Tanga Tourism Network Association (TATONA)
(P.O. Box 178 Tanga, [email protected]). [email protected]
We thank the German Development Service for advisory support.

Tanga Tourism Guide – 2nd edition, January 2011

Please be responsible with this guide,
leave it at a hotel, give it to a fellow traveler, share!