DRY PROCESS OF WASHING

The process where no water is used or a little amount of water is used is called dry process. In
denim washing most of the dry processes are used such as whiskering, tagging, hand scraping, PP
spray etc. Most of the dry processes are done in denim garments for vintage look. Dry process that
are done on denim garments are describe below.

6.1 Whiskering:
Whiskers are the impression of worn out lines generated by natural wearing on Hip & Thigh
area. Generally it is done in horizontal direction of the garments. It is known as CAT’s whisker,
Moustache, Honeycomb. It’s another form that shows a worn effect but fashionable garments.
Description:
To make whisker first, Buyer’s given design is plotted on a tracing paper. Then from the tracing
paper the design is transferred to the ply-wood or gas kit. The next step is to place foam rubber
according to the design on ply wood with the help of solution gum. Finally, the upper surface
of the rubber is grinded to a slope or spherical shape and the whisker pattern is prepared.
After making pattern is entered through the front opening of the pant and rubbing is done by
emery paper at 320 ppm to 600 ppm. Thus the effect produced on the pants is called whisker.
It may require more or less than 3 efforts to make whisker pattern to make buyer’s design
accurately.
 (A)

(B)

(C)

Fig-6.1: (A)Whiskering Pattern, (B) During Whiskring, (C) After Whisker

6.2 Hand Scrapping:

Hand sand is a step which is generally being done in rigid form of garments to get distress look.
Locations can be front thigh & back seat or it can be overall / global application as per standard.
Hand sand is carried out in length direction.

Description:

Emery paper is being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design.

 Emery paper comes in different number generally start from 40 to till 600 and above ,
higher the number finer the emery paper, lower the number coarseness of the paper.
 In industry 220 , 320 ,400 & 600 number papers are most popular & widely used.
 The most important factor is to select right number of paper according to the fabric strength
& intensity need.
 Hand sanding must be started from intense part & feathering out on less intense part
gradually.
 Operations are carried out in horizontal and vertical direction.
 Feathering / merging white sanded part to dark blue area in such way that it should look
natural & not artificial.
 Purpose of doing this process is make used worn out look to the garments.

Fig-6.2: Hand Scrapping

6.3 Tacking:

Tacking is done in the garments (before washing) to import fashionable effect after washing. It
creates a very heavy contrast (rigid & washed) on waistband, bottom hems, back pocket, front
pocket corners, Side join etc.

Description:

 In high temperature process Tacking is done by knotting, high effect occurs.

 In low temperature process Tacking is done by tag gun, less effect occurs.
 After completing wash cycle, it must be removed from garment before making
softening.

Fig-6.3: Tagging

6.4 Grinding:

Grinding is being done on pocket edges & bottom hems edges by running against abrasion
surface or stone to achieve worn out effect. Many different make of machines & pen grinding tools
are available in the market which runs with pneumatic system.
 Fig-6.4: Grinding Machine

6.5 PP Spray:

Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans to take a bright effect on sand blast/ Hand sand
area. Potassium permanganate solution is sprayed on blasted area of jeans garment with the help
of normal spray gun.

PP spray recipe
Potassium permanganate : 10-40 g/l
Acid (H2SO4 / H3PO4) : 10-40 g/l
PP: Acid : 2:1 or 1:1

Description:

This potassium permanganate (K2MnO4) spray appears pink on garment when fresh and turns to
muddy brown on drying. The garment is hanged in open to dry after potassium permanganate spray
and when the potassium permanganate turns its colors completely then it is considered to ready
for next process. It is always followed by neutralization process. Sodium Meta bi-sulphate is most
commonly used neutralizer.

Fig-6.5: After PP Spray

6.6 PP Neutralization:

After PP Spray Meta is used for neutralized potassium permanganate.

PP neutralization recipe

Sodium meta-bi sulphite : 3-5 g/l

Temperature : Cold
Time : 5 minutes

Description:

Sodium meta bi sulphate is used to neutral the potassium per manganite. Take 150 pieces of
garments in a washing machine then add water according the M:L ratio. Then run the machine
and add sodium meta bi sulphate. Here normal temperature is used. Run machine about 5 minutes.
Then drop the liquor and unload the garments. To remove the excess water hydro extractor is used.
Then garments are dried by using dryer.
 Fig-6.6: After PP Neutralization

6.7 3D Whisker:

Another name of 3D whiskering is “Wrinkle” means creating wrinkle effect above on the whisker
effect. This process is one kind of resin finishing process.

A typical recipe/formula: This solution sprayed into denim pant where wrinkle will be done

Typical resin recipe

Resin CCPT : 120 ml

Catalyst (KBC) : 40 ml
Coating agent U41 : 50 ml
Wetting agent : 20 ml
Binder : 20 ml
Sizing agent : 50 ml
Water : 720 ml
Description:

In this process applying resin on textile materials, resin form cross-linking inside the amorphous
region and block the free hydroxyl (-OH) group and prevent hydrogen bond formation and thus
improve wrinkle free finishing. As per design wrinkle is done by using hand. Then the garments
put on the tube of 3D machine. Standard Temperature for permanent Crinkle on the oven is 160
0
C. Standard time is required for permanent wrinkle in the oven 2-5 min. Then the garments are
curing at 160 0C for 15 minutes in Oven machine.

Some advantages:

a. Improved resistance and recovery to crease.

b. Good water repellency and moderately soil repellency
c. Improved handle and draping properties
d. Increased wet and dry fastness

Fig-6.7: 3D Wrinkle

6.8 Destroy:
Destruction’ is an art which make denim look unique & used. To make destruction pen type of
stone tools being used in mid of wash process to apply on desired area. It can also be achieved by
cutting it thru knife the warp yarns & keep the weft yarn as is to show white thread. Holes also
can be made by cutting weft & warp yarns. These are all manual processes & every garment will
look unique & different than others. Sometime garments are placed above a pattern paper and
scrapped by emery paper in weft direction to create destroy effect.

Fig-6.8: Destroy

6.9 Patch & Repair:

These are totally manual processes to give uniqueness to Denim and to make it look vintage. First
cut or damage the units intestinally to desired area & then make hand repairs or machine repair to
look natural. Diluted bleach can be used to spot the desired area followed by neutralization. These
process are time consuming hence productivity is low & reproducibility is very difficult but similar
aesthetics can be achieved.

6.10 Color Spray:

Color solution recipe:

Pigment : 30-50 gm
Binder : 100 ml
Fixer : 75 ml
Water : 825 ml
Description:
Specific pigment color solution is sprayed on the desired area of the garments. It makes a beutiful
color outlooks at that specific area. Pigment color with appropiate binder solution is applied whis
is then followed by curing in order to have permanent effect on jeans.

6.11 White Spray:

White spray solution recipe:

White paste : 1000gm

Binder : 50 ml
Phosphate : 50 ml

Description:

White paste solution is sprayed on the desired area of the garments. It makes a bright outlook at
that specific area. White paste with appropriate binder solution is applied which is then followed
by curing in order to have permanent effect on jeans.

6.12 Wrinkle Free:

This process is one kind of resin finishing process. In this process of applying resins on the textile
material that they cross linked with the amorphous block the free (-OH) that prevent the hydrogen
bond formation and thus improve the wrinkle free finishing. Mainly it is applied on twill fabrics,
single jersey, and denim fabric.

Typical Wrinkle free recipe:

Wetting agent : 0.5-1%OWF

Resin : 6-10% OWF
Softener : 3-5% OWF
Water : 80 Liter
Some advantages:

 Improve resistance and recovery to creasing by wrinkle free process.

 Good water repellency and moderately soil repellency and remove of soil by washing can
be achieved by wrinkle free process.
 Resin improves resilience, handle and draping properties of fabric.
 Improve wet and dye fastness.