Laser-Cut-Infinity-Dodecahedron-Fusion-360 - Copie
Laser-Cut-Infinity-Dodecahedron-Fusion-360 - Copie
Laser-Cut-Infinity-Dodecahedron-Fusion-360 - Copie
by thomasj152
I have been wanting to build my own in nity dodecahedron for years. The depth seen in these beautiful objects never
fails to amaze me. However, after building an in nity cube a few years ago, I decided that I needed access to a laser cutter
before attempting the dodecahedron. Fortunately, I recently gained access to one at my university's makerspace and
immediately began designing and building it!
I ended up with this model! It contains 270 LEDs and is relatively small compared to other in nity dodecahedrons, with a
distance between opposing pannels of only 18 cm.
To ensure that anyone could recreate the entire process of designing and building this project, I divided this instructable
into four parts:
Designing in Fusion 360
Laser cutting the frame (including exporting for laser cutting in Fusion 360)
Building
Programming
I hope you will have as much fun as I did building this and end up with a great-looking project!
Note
Having a laser cutter available for this project is a must. I used this project to increase my experience with laser cutting,
and thus it heavily relies on its use. But don't worry, if you do not have a laser cutter available to you, this 3D printable
in nity cube might be for you!
You will need steady hands for making this project, since the soldering needs to be done at "sub-optimal" angles. Let's
just call it a good practice/ a fun challenge.
Supplies:
Electronics
2 meters of 144 LEDs/meter ws2812b strip ( aliexpress)
A few meters of thin gauge wire (preferably red black and green)
A microcontroller (I used an Arduino nano every since I had one laying around)
A few meter of usb A cable
5V 5A power supply (a phone charger with less amps also works if you run LEDs less bright)
Some dip LED diodes (only the legs of them are being used, sorry LEDs)
Materials
3mm plywood
As I was thinking of ways to build platonic solids from laser-cut material, I settled on the designs shown above. Instead of
connecting the outer panels to each other via tabs on the sides, this design connects the outer panels together via
connectors on the inside. The pieces on the inside also serve as a great place to attach the LED strips. The icosahedron
above was the rst test piece I made, and since I liked the way it looked, I went on to design a dodecahedron. No glue is
used in these builds; all pieces are just pressed together. This approach is also used in the nal build and is surprisingly
sturdy. All that is left to do is to design one that has the correct dimensions to t some LED strips!
From this point on, the parts of the dodecahedron will be referenced as follows:
Outer panel: one of the wooden pentagons that forms the outside of the dodecahedron.
Inner strip: one of the wooden strips that is on the inside of the dodecahedron. These pieces hold the LED
strips.
Connector: one of the pieces that connects the outer panels with the inner panels.
Mirror panel: one of the panels with a one-way mirror.
There will be three di erent versions of the outer panel: a normal one, one with a cutout in one corner so a cable can t
through, and a top piece that has a weaker friction t so that it can be removed later.
In this step I will go over the design processes for this project. If you are interested in this, I advise you to download the
attached Fusion 360 File. This way you can follow the process easier, or even better, move around in the timeline yourself
to see everything step by step! Downloading the le also allows makes it easier to make your own modi cations or
customizations.
Alternatively, if you select the model browser in the frame below, you can use it to display di erent components of the
design, to get an idea about how it all ts together.
I used this video to design the base dodecahedron. This video builds the dodecahedron by placing multiple patched
together. These patches are copied and rotated by their dihedral angle to build the solid. Keep in mind that it is
important to use a parameter to constrain the dimensions of the base pentagon, so that it can be resized later.
Add the necessary construction elements, such that the center of the dodecahedron can be marked with a point.
Once completed, it might be nice to move this body into its own component, since it will only be used for reference later
on.
Note
This approach of designing a dodecahedron is preferred over using a 3d sketch, since fusion 360 might have di culties
with solving 3d sketches when resizing.
The inner strips are the sections that will hold the LED strips. The dimensions of these pieces are based around the LED
strips. Since the two meters of LED strip has a total of 288 LEDs, and a dodecahedron has 30 sides, 288/30 = 9.6. Because
you can't use half LEDs, 9 LEDs will be used per section, which thus need to be 70mm long. The sections wil be 13mm
wide to accommodate the 12mm wide strip.
The outer panels will form the outside of the dodecahedron, the mirror panels will also be glued to these pieces. Now
that the inner strips are designed, we can o set the projection of these parts by a few mm, to allow for space to put the
mirrors on. The outer edge of these panels is just one of the sides of the base dodecahedron extruded.
Once those two parts are designed, it becomes easier to design the connectors. Open a sketch perpendicular to the
previously designed components, and project the intersection of those parts. Design the tabs and some space for the
cable, and you're good to go.
Sign in
NEXT
View in 3D Download
https://www.instructables.com/FG4/4BQI/LF40332A/FG44BQILF40332A.f3d
All wooden pieces of this build are press t together, thus, it is important that all parts t snugly together. Therefore you
will need to adjust all parts for the kerf of your laser cutter. For my laser cutter the kerf was 0.25mm, so all parts were
o set by 0.125mm. If you do not do this, all parts still t together, but they will need glue. I advise you to cut out a few of
the necessarry parts rst to make sure they t together snugly.
You will need to laser cut the following wooden parts out of 3mm plywood
connector.dxf * 150
inner_strip.dxf * 30
outer_panel_top * 1
outer_panel_cable_hole * 3
outer_panel_normal * 8
Alternatively you can export the dxf les directly from the Fusion 360 model. You can easily export the bodies for laser
cutting and adjust for your own kerf using this add-in. I really recommend this add-in if you laser cut objects regulary!
Download
https://www.instructables.com/FY6/YAJT/LF40343X/FY6YAJTLF40343X.dxf
Download
https://www.instructables.com/FSF/DEAE/LF40343Y/FSFDEAELF40343Y.dxf
Download
https://www.instructables.com/F2H/3TRY/LF40343Z/F2H3TRYLF40343Z.dxf
Download
https://www.instructables.com/F0Q/TRYV/LF403441/F0QTRYVLF403441.dxf
Download
https://www.instructables.com/F3J/J5OF/LF403442/F3JJ5OFLF403442.dxf
View in 3D Download
https://www.instructables.com/FIZ/TZ4U/LF4035HK/FIZTZ4ULF4035HK.f3d
The following should be cut from acrylic with one-way mirror lm already applied to it. This video contains instructions
on how to go about applying it. Applying the lm before cutting makes the edges look a lot cleaner.
mirror_panel.dxf * 12
I rst cut out larger pentagons and applied mirror lm to each one individually. Then I went and cut the proper size
pentagon out of each piece. This way I tried to limit inconsistencies in the mirror lm, as it is easier to apply it to a smaller
piece of acrylic.
Make sure to clean these pieces with warm water and soap before gluing them in place later on. This ensures they have
clean re ections.
Download
https://www.instructables.com/FZL/5SG4/LF4035LL/FZL5SG4LF4035LL.dxf
It becomes a lot easier to troubleshoot incorrect connections when you have an Arduino that is displaying something on
the LEDs. Personally I always use this piece of demo code from fast LED. Just change the LED pin to the pin you use. Set
the amount of LEDs to 270 and you are good to go. I use the Arduino IDE for programming.
Now you can start by soldering the rst piece of LED strip. Grab a piece of old usb cable (something like 1 meter), and
strip a section of the red green and black wires inside of it. Connect these to a section of 9 LEDs. Wire the other side of the
cable to the Arduino.
You should now be able to see the rst signs of life!
If you have trouble wiring them up correctly, please look at this instructable for some more information about doing so.
Once the rst piece of the LED strip is connected to the Arduino, you can start building. Start by taking the two outer
panels with a cable hole. Connect two together with 15 connectors and three inner strips. Make sure all cut-outs for the
cable are in the same corner.
Now add the previously made section of LED strip. Put the cable through the hole, and put the piece of LED stip in place.
You can put some glue around the cable to provide a little tension relief.
Now nish this section by putting the nal outer panel with cable hole in place.
Now that the rst three edge pieces are in place, the others can be added. The sketch shows the advised order of the LED
strip sections. The red lines indicate strip sections, the blue lines show data cables that run behind other sections, and the
green dot shows the starting point.
Slowly work your way around the bottom pentagon until you have all ve surrounding pentagons in place. Now work
your way around again until you have the other ve in place. Wire up the nal ve sections of LED strip, and you're good!
Make sure to test all LED connections regularly.
Be aware that the diagram above only shows the data connections of the LED strip. The power connections should
always have a short path to the entry point of the cable. This is why you will see multiple cables connected to one end of
the strip.
Instead of using cables for the really short sections, I used the legs of LEDs. Just hold them in place with tweezers while
you solder them in place.
The second image shows how the data cables should be routed behind the back. Make sure not to close o any sections
that still need these cables, as you cannot access them anymore once closed o .
Soldering these LEDs becomes more challenging the further you go. Make good use of those tweezers to keep
everything in place. Tinning everything that you plan on soldering in advance is also de nitely a must.
Once you have all the LEDs working, you can start gluing the panels in place. Make sure they are clean before gluing
them in place!
First, remove the top panel of the dodecahedron. You will need to use this hole to enter the acrylic mirror pieces.
Then, remove the protective lm from the back side of the acrylic. Place a drop of glue in each corner of the pentagon
(on the side without the mirror lm), and put the mirror into place and press it slightly. Wait for the glue to dry, rotate the
dodecahedron such that another side that does not yet have a panel is facing the bottom, and repeat.
As for the top panel, just glue a piece of mirror in the center of it, whilst it is not attached to the dodecahedron. make sure
the mirror is attached rmly and centered properly. Put this piece in place as the last piece, since it is hard to get it out
again.
Note
It might be a good idea to check beforehand if the glue you use stains the acrylic and how well it bonds acrylic to wood.
The programming is currently quite simple. Unfortunately I haven't gotten to program any fancy code yet that utilizes
the layout of the dodecahedron, but I will do this soon!
For the time being, I just stuck to the demo reel code from above.
Download
https://www.instructables.com/FL7/PMHP/LF2K2UBY/FL7PMHPLF2K2UBY.ino
If everything worked out, you should have ended up with a nice looking project. Let me know if you have any questions.
Check out my pro le for more LED projects.