Lecture 4 5
Lecture 4 5
Lecture 4 5
1. Straight draft.
• This draft is the simplest type of draft which forms the basis of many other drafts.
• It is the most common draft and it can be used with any number of heald shafts.
• Each successive thread is drawn on each successive heald shaft. The 1st thread is
drawn through the first heald shaft and the 2nd through the second shaft and so on.
So the no. of heald shaft equals the no. of warp threads in a repeat.
• Used in twill design.
5 X
4 X
3 X
2 X
1 X
X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X
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WEAVE PLAN
2. Skip draft:
• This draft is used in weaving the fabric with high density of warp threads.
• The no of heald used is multiple of 2 than the no of threads in warp repeat.
• This enables to decrease the density of heald on each shaft and to reduce the friction
thread against thread and thread against shaft.
• In case plain of dividing each heald shafts into two, the odd number of threads are
drawn through the 1st set of heald shafts and the even number of threads are drawn
through the 2nd set.
4 X X
3 X X
2 X X
1 X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
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WEAVE PLAN
3. Pointed or V – draft:
• Used to produce fabric with symmetrical design e.g. jig jag twill, Diamond.
• This is used where the straight draft can not be applied because large warps repeat.
• This draft can be considered as a combination of straight drafts.
• A straight draft is returned in the opposite direction at a predetermined point.
• The 1st and last heald shafts contain two warp ends.
• The number of heald shafts equals to half of the no of threads in warp repeat.
x
x x
x x
x x
x
Pointed draft
4. Broken draft:
x x
x x
x x
x x
x x
x x
Broken draft.
5. Divided draft:
• In this draft, the heald shafts are divided into two or more groups.
• For every group, suitable draft is selected.
• Used in double warp weaves, two ply weaves, pile weaves i.e. two or more set of
warp yarns required.
• More frequently inter weaving threads are kept in the front heald shafts.
• In warp pile fabric, the ground warp threads are passed through the front heald shafts
and the pile warp threads are passed through the front heald shafts and the pile warp
threads are passed through the back heald shafts.
x
x
x
x
x
x x
x x x
Divided draft
6. Grouped draft:
• This draft is used for producing check & stripe fabrics.
• Two sets of stripes are used in two set heald shafts.
• Warp of each group passed through a particular group of healds adjacently and the
other set of warp is inserted through another group of healds adjacently.
• The repeat of draft is determined by the no. of stripes and the no. of threads in each
stripe.
x
x x
x x
x x
x
x x
x x
x x
x x
Grouped draft
7. Curved draft:
• Used to produce decorated weave with large repeat unit.
• Used to reduce the no. of heald shafts.
• Irregular drafting and not classified.
x x
x x
x x
x x
x x
x x
x x
x x
x x
x x
x x x
x
Curved draft
8. Combined draft:
• In producing some special types of fabrics different type of drafts are required
to be mixed.
• It is a very complicated type of draft.
• It can be chosen if there are some technological or economical reasons.
• Great experience is required for such drafting plan.
x x x
x x x x x
x x x x x
x xx x x
x x x x
Combined draft
Difference between Straight & Skip draft:
x
x
x
skip draft
Difference between Broken draft & Divided Draft: