CHAPTER I

AUTOMOTIVE PAINT AND EQUIPEMNT

1. Title of the Module:

2. Overview/Introduction

This chapter discuss the history of automotive paint. It explains alos the
importance of preparation, the different types of primer and base coat. It also gives
you an insights about clear coat and the different equipment that used in automotive
painting.

3. Learning Outcome/Objective

At the end of the chapter, the students’ should be able to:

1. Discuss what is automotive paint and its history

2. Discuss the process on automobile painting
3. Familiarize the different tools and equipment in painting.

4. Learning Content/ Topic

A. History
B. Preparation
C. Primer
D. Base coat
E. Clear coat
F. Equipment

5. Teaching and Learning Activities

The first thing most people notice about automobiles are their paint jobs.
When a car has a lackluster, faded finish, it will look old and dated no matter how
good of shape it is otherwise in. Cars with bright colors and high-gloss clear coats
draw the eye, making the vehicles more appealing. Chrome further brightens up a
vehicle, helping its bumper, rims, trim and other parts look new and giving the car a
high-end look. Automotive paint did not always offer the same beautiful look that
people have come to expect today. Instead, its history provides a fascinating insight
into the technology behind the development of modern automotive painting
processes

PRE-1900 TO EARLY 1900S

When vehicles were first invented,
modern auto paints were simply not
available. Instead, people handpainted their
cars using brushes and paint that they could
purchase at their local stores. Because the
paint faded and flaked away very quickly,
many people would repaint their cars every
year. Around 1900, automakers used the same varnishes that were used for
carriages. Applying paint could take as long as 40 days for each vehicle, and after it
dried, it had to be sanded and polished.
During the early 1900s, a man by the name of Dr. George Sargent conducted a
study, discovering that electroplating chrome would require a ratio of one part of
sulfuric acid to 100 parts of chromium. He presented his research in a paper in 1920.

THE ROARING 20S: PAINT GUNS AND CHROME PLATING DISCOVERIES

In the 1920s, Ford Motor Company started using paints made from
nitrocellulose lacquers on automotive assembly lines. These paints had a
substantially shorter drying time than the older varnishes. 1924 was a big year for
both paint advancements and chrome plating. During that year, paint spray guns
made their splash into the world of auto painting, making their appearance on
assembly lines. At the same time, two men at Columbia University by the names of
Colin Fink and Charles Eldridge discovered the chrome electroplating process. The
men based their work on the paper that had earlier been published by Dr. Sargent.

THE 1930S AND SPRAY-ON CHROME

In the 1930s, automakers started using paints called stoving enamels. These
paints provided glossier shines and much faster drying times. In the world of chrome,
Dr. William Peacock developed a silvering spray in order to silver mirrors. At the
time, mirrors were very expensive because they had to be individually made by
master craftsmen. With the silvering spray in 1932, Dr. Peacock’s discovery allowed
thousands of mirrors to be manufactured every day, greatly decreasing the price of
mirrors and making them widely available

THE 1950S AND 1960S: ACRYLICS

In 1955, General Motors started painting its cars with a new acrylic that
required the cars to be baked after the acrylic was applied. This process gave the
cars a consistent finish, but the finish wasn’t as glossy as that provided by stoving
enamels. In 1960, Ford Motor Co. began using acrylic stoving enamels, which
provided the tough finish with more shine

THE 1980S: URETHANE AND POLYURETHANE

In the late 1980s, car manufacturers began using urethane and polyurethane
paints on their vehicles. After the application, clear coats were then applied. This
resulted in durable and highly
glossy finishes.

TODAY
The technology of
automotive painting continues to
evolve. Some car makers now use
a process called electrocoating,
which involves submerging vehicles
in a primer bath and using electric
currents to bind the coating to the metal. Spray chrome has also advanced
significantly. People are now able to use PChrome chrome spray to achieve the
same feel and look that is provided by chrome plating but at a fraction of the
expense. To learn more about PChrome chrome spray and its use for vehicle
restoration or customization, call us today.

Surface Preparation

The second step in a typical auto repair is surface preparation. During this
step filler may be applied to fill voids and the surface sanded smooth. Other painted
surfaces may be sanded or roughed up so that it will hold the new paint. Just prior to
painting, the vehicle is cleaned, taped or masked to protect areas that will not be
painted, and any dust or oil is removed with a solvent. Taping does not involve any
chemical hazards.

Applying Body Filler / Bondo

The application of filler material can expose you to some hazardous materials
if you do not take appropriate precautions. Most body fillers contain a solvent called
styrene. As the filler dries, styrene is released to the air and you can breathe it. It has
a characteristic sweet smell at low concentrations and a sharp disagreeable odor at
high concentrations.
Exposure to styrene can cause respiratory irritation. It may also damage your
liver and possibly cause cancer at very high levels of exposures - not usually found
in autobody shops. Styrene can also be absorbed directly through the skin if you
come in direct contact with the uncured filler. In some people, direct contact with the
filler may cause skin rashes and repeated exposure may increase your sensitivity.

All About Automotive Primer

Primer. It's an important part of most painting processes, and this is no
exception in the world of automotive paint. Whether you're painting your own
vehicle or just performing touch-ups, most will recommend sanding and then
applying a primer before continuing with the final topcoat.

So - What IS Primer?
In the automotive world, the term primer generally refers to a paint-like
substance that's usually applied to freshly sanded metal before the topcoat. Much
like paint, different types of automotive primer can be applied with a spray gun or a
brush, and is allowed to dry thoroughly between coats. While it might seem like
adding an unnecessary step, using car primer paint when refinishing an auto body is
important for a number of reasons. Some will have good filling capabilities, some will
provide sealing against the elements and others will work best when used in
conjunction with a second type of primer before completion of the final paint job.

Why Use Primer?

First and foremost, automotive primer helps the paint adhere to bare metal.
Without primer as a buffer, the shiny metal surface, whether old or new, won't bond
with the paint well. This leads to peeling, flaking, and eventually rust, which turns a
driveable car to junk in no time. Car paint primer acts as a bonding agent to help the
paint adhere more strongly to the body of the vehicle.
Equally as important, auto paint primer helps prevent rust and moisture
damage to your vehicle by adding a couple of extra protective layers. This is
generally an automotive primer sealer, like urethane or epoxy-based.
It also can serve as a filler for sanding/grinding marks and small scratches on
your car body, negating the need for putty or a more prolonged repair job, like a
urethane surfacer.

How to Use Auto Primer

If you're performing any type of bodywork, repairs or paint updates, you'll
need to use primer at some point. This is especially true if you're refinishing your
car's paint job at home and will be sanding down to bare metal or removing rust.
Most auto body primer types come available as "two-part", which means a primer
base and an activator need to be mixed before use. Simply follow the included
instructions, and alter as necessary. Others, like urethane primer, can require up to
4-parts mix ratio, but easy-to-follow instructions are provided. Still others come
complete in aerosol form for quick and easy application

Once you've mixed your car primer paint, before you proceed with priming any
part of your vehicle, you'll want to make sure you've accomplished a few preparatory
tasks first:
 Remove any rust completely, either by sanding by hand or grinding.
 Fill any large dents, dings, scratches, or pock marks on your vehicle's body,
unless you've selected a primer that's known for good build, like polyester
primer.
 Sand down any blemishes or inconsistencies before priming, and especially
after filling or using putty.
 Once you've completed the sanding and other prep, you'll want to make sure
the vehicle's surface is as clean and free of particles as possible to allow for
better contact. Give your vehicle a quick wash and spot clean any areas you
may have sanded or ground down with a wet rag. As always, allow the vehicle
surface to dry completely before applying any type of paint or primer.

 How you apply the primer will depend on the scope and size of your project. If
you're just performing small touch-ups, brushing the primer on by hand will
definitely work, and you'll want to use smooth, even strokes to avoid visible
lines in the end paint job. If you're going to be painting your entire vehicle or
repainting larger portions of the car, using a spray gun will be your best option.
Always start with a clean spray gun, and keep a bucket of thinner on hand in
which to soak spray gun parts as soon as you're finished to prevent build-up on
your equipment.

 Once you've applied the auto primer, curing time will vary between types, so
make sure you read labels and instructions. Smears and poor curing jobs lead
to poor paint jobs, so err on the side of caution if you're not certain the primer
coat is completely dry and allow extra time if needed.
  The number of primer coats you'll need will also vary. For large areas and
whole-body work, two coats is the standard. This allows maximum coverage
and rust prevention, and provides the best base for paint adhesion. For smaller
touch-ups, use your best judgement. Only one good coat might be necessary.

Different Kinds of Automotive Primer

The kind of car paint primer you end up using will vary with your project needs.
You can ensure a lasting, high-quality auto paint job and extra rust protection with a
good primer base. Different types of automotive primer will also withstand sanding
differently, and depending on your project, you may want to consider this.
 Epoxy Primer - Epoxy primer is considered a good standard base when it
comes to ensuring the auto paint bonds to the metal and promotes a quality
paint finish. It's formulated specifically to prevent corrosion, so epoxy primer for
cars won't sand as well as other types, like urethane primer.

 Urethane Primer Surfacer - This type of two-part primer surfacer is often used
in conjunction with any putty or fillers you're using to perform repairs and is
applied over a secondary base primer as it doesn't provide the best corrosion
resistance.

 Polyester Primer - Polyester primer has what's known in the auto world as
excellent "build" - it fills small scratches and dings much like a putty or filler
would and has the highest filling capability of any sprayable primer. This makes
it perfect for filling bodywork blemishes AND achieving a good paint bonding
surface at the same time. However, it tends to be a bit more brittle and prone to
cracking than urethane or epoxy once dry, so this makes a great primer for
small repair and filling jobs but may not be the best choice for an entire car.

 Urethane Sealer - This type of primer is best used merely as a strong

adhesive layer for the paint to bond to. Urethane sealer doesn't really have any
filler capabilities, but is perfect for when you're painting a vehicle that's already
in decent condition or you need to seal off a good amount of filler or bodywork.

 Acid Etch Primer - Another good, basic car paint primer. Acid etch primer is
much like urethane surfacer in that it's forte is not so much corrosion
prevention as providing a strong bonding surface for paint. If extra rust
prevention is the goal, use acid etch primer in conjunction with a sealer or rust
preventative. This type of primer dries much more quickly than the others, so is
used in a lot of body repairs in auto shops to speed up repair time. It also
eliminates the need for any metal conditioner, so this is best when applied
directly to bare metal and then covered with a secondary primer, like epoxy or
urethane.

 Enamel Primers/Sealers - Enamel primers are a extremely economical and,

much like epoxy, provide a good base for auto paint to adhere to. They have a
fair to good level of corrosion resistance.

 Lacquer Primers/Sealers - Lacquer primer dries quickly and sands quite well,
but can lead to cracking and bubbling in the long term, so these auto paint
 primer types are best used beneath a corrosion prevention and paint layer for
small bodywork jobs.

 Moisture Cure Urethane Primer - This auto primer is excellent for both paint
adhesion and rust protection on difficult repair jobs where complete rust
removal is unobtainable, making it an excellent all-around primer choice for
completing two jobs at once. It also cures quickly when exposed to the
moisture in the atmosphere, so curing times are cut roughly in half.

When To Use Automotive Primer & When You Might Not Need To
Whenever you're dealing with bare metal, whether old or new, you'll need to
use primer before covering the area with any automotive paint. If you're making small
body repairs and need to sand down or grind out a blemish, it's important to protect
that area and make sure the paint will bond with the surface in order to further
damage from rust or peeling.
The only time you won't need to use primer is if you're not uncovering any
bare metal. If you're just lightly buffing away the top layer of paint and haven't
uncovered your vehicle's steel panels, then it's ok to forego the primer. This goes for
any plastic parts as well. If you're not removing paint down to the bare surface, then
the primer is unnecessary.

So...What Primer Should I Use?

If you're needing a best all-around primer, something that provides a little
corrosion protection and allows maximum paint adherence these will be some of
your best bets:
 For large paint jobs - in instances where you need to repaint/refinish a large
surface area of your vehicle, epoxy primer will usually be your best option. It's a
two-component primer, so it's simple to mix, and provides the optimum blend of
paint adhesion and corrosion resistance and protection. Epoxy auto primer can
be applied on top of everything from fillers and fiberglass to prepared steel or
factory finishes. Dry time is quick as well, making this a great all-around auto
primer for home mechanics and auto body shops alike.

 For small touch-ups - polyester primer surfacer is perfect for those little repair
jobs that require some light filling or putty, as it has great "build" - meaning it's
on the thicker side and has the ability to fill in minor nicks and scratches and
sands down well, negating the need for an extra putty or filler step. Polyester
auto primer is perfect for completing small auto body repair jobs and is
excellent for spot repairs.

 For the best rust protection - in situations where rust was present and
sanded out, or even where complete rust removal is not an option, moisture
cure urethane primer will provide the best protection from further rust damage.
Urethane auto primer sands easily, dries quickly, and holds color well.
Base Coat
The base coat is applied after the primer coat. This coat contains the visual
properties of color and effects, and is usually the one referred to as the paint. Base
coat used in automotive applications is commonly divided into three categories:
solid, metallic, and pearlescent pigments.

 Solid paints have no sparkle effects except the color. This is the easiest type of
paint to apply, and the most common type of paint for heavy transportation
vehicles, construction equipment and aircraft. It is also widely used on cars,
trucks, and motorcycles. Clear coat was not used on solid colors until the early
1990s.
 Metallic paints contain aluminium flakes to create a sparkling and grainy effect,
generally referred to as a metallic look. This paint is harder to manage than solid
paints because of the extra dimensions to consider. Metallic and pearlescent
paints must be applied evenly to ensure a consistent looking finish without light
and dark spots which are often called "mottling". Metallic basecoats are
formulated so that the aluminium flake is parallel to the substrate. This
maximises the "flop". This is the difference in the brightness between looking
perpendicularly at the paint and that at an acute angle. The "flop" is maximised if
the basecoat increases in viscosity shortly after application so that the aluminium
flake which is in a random orientation after spraying is locked into this position
while there is still much solvent (or water) in the coating. Subsequent evaporation
of the solvent (or water), leads to a reduction in the film thickness of the drying
coating, causing the aluminium flake to be dragged into an orientation parallel to
the substrate. This orientation then needs to be unaffected by the application of
the clear coat solvents. The formulation of the clear coat needs to be carefully
chosen so that it will not "re-dissolve" the basecoat and thus affect the orientation
of the metallic flake but will still exhibit enough adhesion between the coatings so
as to avoid delamination of the clear coat. A similar mode of action occurs with
pearlescent pigmented basecoats.
 Pearlescent paints contain special iridescent pigments commonly referred to as
"pearls". Pearl pigments impart a colored sparkle to the finish which works to
create depth of color. Pearlescent paints can be two stage in nature (pearl base
color + clear) or 3 stage in nature (basecoat + pearl mid-coat + clear-coat).
Clearcoat
Usually sprayed on top of a colored basecoat, clearcoat is a glossy and
transparent coating that forms the final interface with the environment. For this
reason, clearcoat must be durable enough to resist abrasion and chemically stable
enough to withstand UV light. Clearcoat can be either solvent or water-borne.
One part and two part formulations are often referred to as "1K" and "2K"
respectively. Car manufacturer clear coats applied to the metal bodies of cars are
normally 1K systems since they can be heated to around 140 °C to effect cure. The
clear coats applied to the plastic components like the bumpers and wing mirrors
however are 2K systems since they can normally only accept temperatures up to
about 90 °C. These 2K systems are normally applied "off line" with the coated plastic
parts fixed to the painted metallic body. Owing to the difference in formulation of the
1K and 2K systems and the fact they are coated in different locations they have a
different effect on the "redissolving" of the metallic base coat. This is most easily
seen in the light metallic paints like the silver and light blue or green shades where
the "flop" difference is most marked
6. Recommended learning materials and resources for supplementary reading.

Learning Materials

 Book, LTO Pilipino driver’s Manual, Videos, Power Presentation

Resources

 TESDA CBLM
 LTO manual

7. Flexible Teaching Learning Modality (FTLM) adapted

Online:

 Synchronous
 Asynchronous
 Modular