Textile Technology I

Spinning technology
Basic terminology, classification of yarns, basic parameters of linear textiles, general
technological scheme of staple-spun yarn production

Ing. Eva Moučková, Ph.D.

Faculty of Textile Engineering
Department of Technologies and Structures

Textile Technology I | 2018/2019

 Introduction, basic terminology
SPINNING = production of yarn from staple fibres
- conversion of a large quantity of individual unordered fibres of relatively short
length into a linear, ordered product of very great length by using suitable
machines and devices [1]

Spinning

500 µm

[1] Klein, W. The Rieter manual of spinning, Volume 1, Technology of short staple spinning [3] https://www.indiamart.com/shivdharaexim/cotton-yarn.html. 26.6.2018
[2] Trützschler Gmbh & CO KG: From bale to web, edition 03/2011 [4] https://www.englishfinecottons.co.uk/journal/manufacturing/a-21st-century-mill/
 Introduction, basic terminology

Textile raw material for spinning: fibres (fiber raw material)

Fibre = a textile raw material, generally characterised by flexibility, fineness and high ratio
of length to thickness (thickness up to 0.1mm)
- various kinds (vegetable, animal, man-made fibres, special fibres), various
profiles, various length

Polyamide fibres Wool fibres

Cotton and flax fibres

Classification of fibres according to length (in terms of processing):

- Staple fibre - a fibre of limited and relatively short length (> 10 mm)
- Unspinnable fibre – fibre shorter than 10 mm, it can not be spun into yarns
- Continuous filament – a fibre of indefinite length (continuous fibre)
 Introduction, basic terminology

Fibres raw material – natural fibres in unprocessed state (unclean), or man-made fibres

- supplied to the mill in a certain so-called staple lengths

- usually pressed in bales

Bale of fibres [1]

Secondary textile raw materials - fibers obtained from the processing of textile waste
(yarn residues, fabrics), they replace or complement the primary textile raw materials
[1] Trützschler Gmbh & CO KG: From bale to web, edition 03/2011
 Introduction, basic terminology
STAPLE SPUN YARN = a product of substantial length
and relatively small cross-section consisting of staple
fibres held together usually by twist such way that
individual fibres break during the yarn breakage .

On what factors does yarn structure

and properties depend?
Mikroscopical image of yarn
A … rotor spun yarn, B ... ring spun yarn

Staple spun yarn utilization:

Production of woven and knitted fabric for:

- Clothing fabrics - Medical textiles (bandages)

- Sportswear - Technical textiles (bags, ropes, conveyor
- Protective and working clothes belts .. )
- Home textiles - Automotive

Manufacture of sewing threads, embroidery yarns, …

 Basic terminology
Basic classification of staple spun yarns according to yarn construction

Single yarn – how we recognize the single spun yarn?

Assembled yarn – two or more yarns wound together on a bobbin (without twist)
- Use: usually supply product for production of plied yarn

Plied (twisted, folded, doubled) yarn – two or more yarns twisted together

Fancy yarn – yarn that is produced deliberately with

various irregularities in its colour or form
- Single or plied yarn

Fancy yarn (slub) [2] Fancy yarn - buclé, loop, knop, ondé [1]

[1] http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Ryj – Digitalkamera FineFix A 201, CC BY-SA 3.0,

[2] Marzoli Spinning solution: Fancy yarn, Brescia. Italy.
 Basic terminology
Basic classification of staple spun yarns according to yarn construction

Core yarn - it consists of central core (staple fibres, filament)

that is wrapped with staple fibres or filament in whole length of
yarn

Cross-section of core yarn

Construction of core yarn [1]

Core yarn [2]

Bulked yarn - it is usually compound from a blend of fibres of high and low potential
shrinkage. During subsequent hot and/or wet processing, the greater contraction of
high-shrinkage fibres causes the yarn to contract longitudinally, and the low shrinkage
fibres to buckle.
- The use – usually for knitted fabric manufacturing
[1] http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/07/types-of-yarn-characteristics-of-yarn.html, připojení 27.6.2018
[2] http://www.functionyarn.com/products/Yarn/Core_pun_yarn/26.html
 Introduction, basic terminology
Basic classification of single staple-spun yarns
a) According to spinning b) According to spinning method
technology

- Ring spun yarn

- Carded
(Wollen)

- Combed - Rotor spun yarn

(Worsted)

- Air jet spun yarn

- Other (see the course Spinning)
(see the course Spinning)

- Others ….
 Introduction, basic terminology
Semi-products in the spinning mill:

Flock of fibres - a tuft of fibrous raw materials of light

weight (weight range: 0.1mg - 0.1g )

Flock of fibres [3]

Fleece – a flat textile; a sheet of flocks of fibres, flocks are interconnected only by
natural cohesion (friction forces among fibres)
- usually the supply product for carding machine and for production of non-
woven fabric

Fleece – sketch [1]

Fleece as a supply product for carding machine [2]

[1] Dostálová, M., Křivánková, M.: Základy textilní a oděvní výroby, Technická univerzita v Liberci, Liberec, 2004.
[2] www.rieter.com Accessed 2011-07-04
[3] www.truetzschler.de Accessed 2013-07-06
 Introduction, basic terminology
Semi-products in the spinning mill:
Card web – a fine thin layer of partly straightened staple fibres;
- usually it is acquired by doffing fibres from the doffer on the carding machine

Card web – output from the carding machine [1]

Sliver – a linear textile consists of staple fibres that are interconnected by self-cohesion
- card sliver,
- drawn sliver
- combed sliver (a top – in the worsted sp. technology),
- converter sliver (a top)

Sliver lodged in the can [1]

Longitudinal view on card sliver
Top wound on the bobbin [2]
Tow and top (converter sliver) [2]
[1] www.truetzschler.de Accessed 2010-07-06
[2] n.schlumberger: firemní materiály firmy nsc, France, 2006
 Introduction, basic terminology
Semi-products in the spinning mill:
Sliver lap – the fibers layer of straightened staple fibres, formed by doubling and drawing of
several slivers, wound on the bobbin

Sliver lap [1], [2]

Roving – a linear textile consists of staple fibres, strengthened with true protective
twist or rounding but only to the extent that individual fibres does not
break when roving breakage occurs
- a supply product for a ring spinning frame

Roving wound on roving

Longitudinal wiev on the cotton roving bobbin [4]
[1] ww.rieter.com. Připojení: 27.6.2018 [3] Thrutzschler Combing comptele brochure
[2] Marzoli Spinning Solution: Galilelo, Graw Frames_Combing section. Brescia. Italy. [4] www.oerlicon.com. Připojení 15.6.2014
 Introduction, basic terminology
Other products in the spinning mill:
Tow – a linear textile - an essentially twist-free fibrous assembly of a large
number of substantially parallel man-made filaments of total fineness
higher than 10 ktex
- it is processed by the converter (cutting or stretch-breaking into staple
fibres, sliver formation)

Tow [2]
Tow and top (converter sliver) [1]

Low-denier tow – a linear textile – a twist-free fibrous assembly of parallel continuous

man-made filaments, substantially finer than tow, total fineness usually of 200-1000 tex.
In the technology of spinning, the low-denier tow is :
- processed by a converter (by stretch-breaking or
cutting into staple fibres, formation of fine strand).
The strand is then spun into the yarn.
- used as a core into the core-yarn Low-denier tow [2]
[1]n.schlumberger: firemní materiály firmy nsc, France, 2006
[2] ncs: TT12 converter . Dostupné z: http://www.nsc-schlumberger.com/sites/default/files/produits/pdf/nsc_fibre_to_yarn_-_tt12-bd.pdf. 26.6.2018
 Basic terminology
Others fibrous formation in the spinning technology:

Filament - a linear textile of natural infinite fibres (silk)

Silkworm coconuts [1]

- a linear textile of man-made infinite fibres of total count lower than 2 000 dtex =
often called filament yarn
- monofilament yarn – one infinite fibre
- multifilament yarn – more infinite fibres (fibrils)

Microscopical image of multfilament yarn - 100% PES, 36 fibrils, 10 tex Microscopical image of
multifilament yarn - 100% PA
The use of monofilament, multifilament yarn: clothing and technical 280 fibrils, 188 tex

purposes, medical purposes, sportswear

Are multifilament yarns produced by discussed spinning technology?

[1] Synek, L. Jak se vyrábí hedvábí. 26.1.2014 Dostupné z: https://zoommagazin.iprima.cz/cestovani/latka-ktera-zmenila-svet-jak-se-vyrabi-hedvabi. Cit.

26.6.2018
 Basic terminology
Others fibrous formation in the spinning technology:

Thread – a general term for yarn, multifilament yarn, tow …

- It is used in the cases where it is necessary to generally express the shape of the
product without regard to its method of production, structure, construction and type of raw
material
 Basic terminology
Basic types of yarn packages

Conical cross-wound bobbin Cylindrical cross-wound bobbin

Cop
(cross-wound cone) (cheese bobbin)

Cops [1] Yarn wound on the cross-wound bobbin [2] Yarn wound on the cylindrical cross-wound
bobbin [3]

- Note: weavers and knitters do not want buy the yarn wound on the cop – due to small amount of material,
large overhead storage - the yarn has to be rewound on cross-wound bobbins before it is further distributed
[1] Marzoli Spinning solution: Galileo MDS1 Ring Spinning Frame. Brescia. Italy.
[2] https://www.indiamart.com/shivdharaexim/cotton-yarn.html. 26.6.2018
 The most important fibre raw materials used for staple-spun yarn production
Natural fibres
a) vegetable
- cotton - flax, hamp, jute, …

Cotton-plant and fibrous tuft Microscopical image of

cotton fibres [1]

video

Bast fibre processing – see the course of

Special technologies (KTT/SPV)

- Usual fibres length: 25 - 40 mm

- Usual fibre fineness: 1.2 – 2.3 dtex
[1] http://www.swicofil.com/products/001cotton.html
[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8NyC_HhO-Y
The most important fibre raw materials used for staple-spun yarn production
Natural fibres
b) animal:
- Sheep wool - Other hairs - Fibre waste during
Mohair silkworm coconuts
(angora goat)
processing

Cashmere
(cashmere goat)

Camel’s hair

- Usual fibres length:

60 - 150 mm
Angora
- Usual fibres fineness: rabbit Alpaca
1.2 – 2.3 dtex
Video: http://www.pfeifer.liberec.net/web/download.php
The most important fibre raw materials used for staple-spun yarn production

Man-made fibres
- Viscose
- Polyamide
- Polyester
- Polypropylene
- Polyakrylonitrile

Special fibres For more details, see the course

- Kevlar Textile Fibers
- Nomex
- Metal fibres
- Glass fibres

- The usual length of fibers corresponds to the length of:

- cotton: up to max. 60 mm (so called cotton type man-made fibres),or
- wool: more than 50 mm (so called woolen type man-made fibres)
 Basic parameters of linear textiles
FINENESS (yarn count, yarn number)
 The linear density (relation between mass and length of fibrous material – fibre, sliver,
roving, yarn)
Ways of expression of fineness
1) System TEX
- It is mass of linear fibrous product per unit of length
- It expresses how many grams weigh 1 km of linear fibrous product
m [g ] T … fineness (count) [tex]
T [tex] =
l [km]
m … mass [g]
l …...length [km]
Basic unit: 1 tex (a linear textile of length 1 km weighs 1 g)
In the tex units, the yarn count (about 8.4 tex - 200 tex) and the fineness of roving
(hundreds of tex)
Derived units:
a) „kilotex“ ktex [g/m], [kg/km] ……. sliver (range: 3 – 40 ktex), tow (more than 10 ktex),
fleece (more than 100 ktex)
1 ktex = 1000 tex
b) „decitex“ dtex [0.1g/km] …fibres (units of tex – cotton fibre ca 1.6 dtex, wool f. ca 4
dtex)
1 dtex = 0.1 tex (1 tex = 10 dtex)
c) „militex“ mtex [mg/km] … fibres (silk)
1 mtex = 0.001 tex (1 tex = 1000 mtex)
 Basic parameters of linear textiles
Ways of expression of fineness
2) System Nm (“Number metrical“)
 It is length of linear fibrous product per unit of mass
 This system indicates: how many meters of fibrous product has a mass of 1g

l [m]
T [tex ] =
1
T [ ktex ] =
Nm = 1000
m [g ] conversion: Nm Nm
3) System Ne (“Number english“)

 This system indicates how many hanks about specific length [yds] weigh 1lb
 It is defined for various fibre raw materials (cotton, wool, flax)

l [840 yds ]
For cotton: Neco =
1yds = 0.914m
m [lb ] 1 lb = 0.4536 kg

Note: The standard lengths in yards

590.5
Conversion: T [tex ] = are commonly called hanks, or
NeCO in some cases skeins
 Basic parameters of linear textiles
Ways of expression of fineness

4) System Titr denier Td [den]

- It expresses how many grams weight 9 km of linear fibrous product
- Usually used for silk, or multifilament yarns

m [g] Td [ den ] = 9 T [tex ]

Td [ den ] =
Conversion
l [9km ]
 Basic parameters of linear textiles
TWIST Z [tpm]
- It means the arrangement of fibres in direction of helix 1 twist
around the yarn axis
- It is expressed by number of turns of fibres strand
1 twist
around its linear axis per unit length (1 m).
- By twisting, fibres get closer and compress toward each
other; they have higher mutual cohesion = strength of
fibres strand gets higher
- We twist: roving, staple-spun yarn, plied yarn, eventually
multifilament yarn
Helical model of yarn [2]

Twist classification Twist in plied yarn

a) According to direction of fibre arrangement in the yarn (twist direction)

Right twist Z Left twist S
Number of twists inserted into the
yarn per 1 m depends on:
- Kind of raw material (fibre length,
fineness, fibre surface)
- Yarn count
- Yarn use
Right (Z) and left (S) twist direction in yarn [1]
[1] http://www.saviospa.it/ Accessed 2011-07-07
[2] Neckář, B. Struktura a vlastnost příze – přednášky. Katedra textilních technologií, Technická univerzita v Liberci.
 Basic parameters of linear textiles
TWIST Z [tpm]
Twist classification
b) According to twisting method
- True (real) twist (it „permanently stays“ in the twisted fibrous strand, fibre are
arranged in the form of helix)
- it is inserted into the cotton roving and always into staple-spun yarn

- False twist (it is „twisting and untwisting“ of fibrous strand, the twist is inserted
only temporarily in order to condensate fibres together and eliminate air ⇒
internal cohesion of fibre strand increases; In the final strand, fibres are not
arranged in the form of helix
- Usually is inserted by the called rounding

1 … Feeding device
2 … Rubbing aprons (rouding device)
3 ... Delivery (take-off) device
4 … Roving
Principle of false twist insertion (rounding) [1]
Why not
- Only the roving from wool fibres (slubbing) or roving made of some cotton
kind of man-made fibres (woollen type) are rounded. roving?

[1] ] Dostálová, M., Křivánková, M.: Základy textilní a oděvní výroby, Technická univerzita v Liberci, Liberec, 2004.
 Basic parameters of linear textiles
TWIST Z [m-1]
Method of twist level calculation:
- From machine process variables: Machine twist

n [ rpm ]
Z  m −1  = n ……Number of revolutions of twisting device [rpm],
vodv …Delivery speed = delivery [m.min-1],
vodv = lm
vodv  m.min  −1
Z ……Number of twists [tpm] [tpm = m-1]

- Using twist coefficients – Koechlin’s, Phrix’s – it is based on so

called helical model of yarn

Zákrut podle Koechlina:

Z .. Number of twists [m-1]
α  ktex1/2 m −1  31.623 α… Koechlin’s twist coefficient
Z  m −1  =
T [tex ]
z [ktex1/2 .m-1]
T ... Fineness of twisted fibrous
strand [tex] Helical model of yarn and its
unrolling into area [1]
Zákrut podle Phrixe vztah:
am  ktex 2/3 m −1  .100
Z  m −1  = am…. Phrix’s twist coefficient [ktex2/3.m-1]
T [tex ]
2
3 T ... Fineness of twisted fibrous strand [tex]
 Staple-spun yarn production
- It is realized in the spinning mills
- It is carried out by various spinning processes. Spinning processes are combined into
technological stages (levels).

Opening, Opening into

Opening, cleaning, individual fibres,
mixing mixing cleaning
Fibre tufts

Sliver
Bale of fibres Fibre tufts Card web

Impurities Impurities Fleece

rouno Impurities

Separation of
Attenuation, Attenuation, Attenuation,
short fibres,
Assurance of mass Strenghtening Strenghtening
attenuation
evenness (doubling) Winding Winding

Sliver Sliver Sliver Roving Staple-spun

yarn

Impurities, short fibres

Optional
 Staple-spun yarn production
Basic principle of staple-spun yarn production:

- Small fibre tufts are released from the bales. The fibre tufts are gradually divided into
smaller one, they mix together and impurities are removed (processes: opening,
cleaning, mixing)

- The fibre tufts are divided into individual fibres which are straightened, aligned and form
a sliver (note: during manufacturing of all type of staple-spun yarn).

- For production of fine and strong yarn, short fibres are separated and eliminated.

- The sliver is gradually attenuated (by gradual drawing individual fibres from fibrous
bundle) while trying to achieve the same "thicknesses" of drawn strand along its entire
length (ensuring evenness)

- Subsequent attenuation of the sliver into the thin strand of fibres and its slight
strengthening (by twisting) form the roving (note: in the production of the conventional -
the so-called ring-spun yarn). Attenuation and twisting of resulting very fine fibrous
strand form the yarn. During manufacture, rovings, yarns, or eventually slivers are
wound onto various forms of bobbins.
 Staple-spun yarn production
The exact sequence of individual technological stages are called technological scheme.
Spinning technology: it is an arrangement of individual spinning stages into the technological
line
- It is complicated (a lot of spinning stages, various arrangement)

Basic general classification of spinning technologies (for cotton fibres)

- Carded spinning technology

(production of carded yarn)

- Combed spinning technology

(production of combed yarn)

- „Shortened“ spinning technology

(production of, for example, rotor spun yarn)
Spinning method

 Type of spinning machine used for yarn production

 Ring spinning, compact spinning, rotor spinning, air-jet spinning, dref spinning …
 Depends mainly on the yarn utilization (required yarn properties), yarn count,
type of raw material
Note: The term „Shortened technology“ is not used abroad
 Fibrous raw
material
Basic general technological schemes of
staple spun yarns production Opening
- The sequence of operations for yarn Cleaning, Mixing
production
Fibrous tufts
2
1 Carded spinning technology Carding
(carded ring spun yarn production)
Preparation for combing Sliver
Sliver lap/Sliver
Combed spinning 1 3
technology Combing
(combed ring spun yarn Combed sliver
Doubling and Doubling
production) and drawing
Drawing
3 „Shortened“ spinning technology
(Rotor spun yarn production, for example) Sliver
Roving forming
After spinning, these operations can be realized:
- Steaming Roving
- Winding (always in the case of ring spun yarn)
Spinning
- Assembling (optional)
- Twisting
- Dying
Yarn
 Yarn manufacturing

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeik7MuQ930&t=60s