© 2023 JETIR September 2023, Volume 10, Issue 9 www.jetir.

org(ISSN-2349-5162)

Plant Based Natural Dyes in Assam: A Systematic

Review
Nila Kumar Singha
Lecturer in Weaving Mechanism (Selection Grade)
Department of Textile
Assam Textile Institute, Guwahati, India
Abstract : In the history of natural dyeing, India has a rich heritage of using vibrant colouring fabrics, paintings with the locally
available colouring materials. These colorants were made from plants, animal extracts or minerals. During the medieval and early
colonial periods indigoid blue, khoyar from acacia bark, range of reds from madder, burgundy from lac insects were mostly used
in which the colour “last as long as the cloth itself”. Among the various types of natural colorant materials, plant extracted dye is
widely used, some of which has also medicinal properties. In India, there are more than 500 varieties of plants that can be used for
dyeing and printing. In Assam also, there are large number of dye yielding plant available in the forest as well as domestic areas.
In this article, the author studied the different dye yielding plants of Assam and establishes more than 50 numbers of mostly used
plants which are grouped according to the particular colour they produced. Though, natural colour has certain inherent drawbacks
for large scale production, use of natural materials increases the value of a product and contributes to sustainable and eco-friendly
environment.

Keywords: Colorant, Natural Dye, madder, dye-yielding, drawbacks.

1. INTRODUCTION
Natural dyes are used as ‘colorant’ and it seems to be the principal colouring matters of dyeing textile substrate from ancient
times to the late 19th century. The colorants are the substances that have an affinity to the substrate to which it is being applied.
Natural dyes are not only used in textile substances but also in food industry (Annatto, Curcumin and cochineal), leather items,
cosmetics (lipstics, hair colouration), dye-sensitized solar cells, histological staining, pH indication & pharmaceuticals (Saffron,
Rhubarb) and several other fields [33, 54]. In the ancient period plants and insects have been used as the main source of natural
dyes. Natural dyes and pigments are also obtained from the minerals of the earth. Colouring matters derived from different
organs of plant , such as roots, bark, leaf, fruit are known as vegetable class of dyes, lac, cochinel, kermes are the animal dyes
which are obtained from animal and colorants obtained from various inorganic metal ores and metal salts are known as mineral
dyes [39, 52]. However, though there are abundant numbers of natural colorants in the form of plants, animals or minerals, only
few of these yield colorants which can be extracted and used commercially viable.
A drastic decline in the usage of natural dyes occurred after the introduction of synthetic dyes by Henry Perkin in the year
1856 [25]. By the development of synthetic dyes, due to its versatile application properties and number of advantages it becomes
very popular and people adopted these dyes for dyeing and printing purposes. Thus, synthetic dyes led to an almost complete
replacement of natural dyes. The replacement of natural dyes by the synthetic dyes have also certain other reasons, such as wide
range of colour, reproducibility in easier way, and easily available varieties of colours with low cost. Due to such plentiful
advantages of synthetic dyes many dyeing and printing units were established throughout the world and achieved mass production
with speedy processes and accurate result as per requirement.
The production of synthetic dyes involves reaction which is conducted at high temperature and pressure using primarily from
petroleum derivatives. About 80% synthetic dyes are constituted of aromatic azo type. Researches have shown that synthetic dyes
are suspected to release harmful chemicals that are allergic, carcinogenic and detrimental to human health. Some of the synthetic
dyes contain toxic or carcinogenic amines or other such chemical groups which have environmental impact and distress to the
human skin. These dyeing plants, which uses chemicals, does not maintain proper effluent treatment plant and disposed their
wastage into the cultivatable land or in river etc. thus leads to environmental and water pollution.
In the present era, ecological consideration, safe environment is becoming an important factor in the selection of consumer
goods all over the world. Moreover, Government is very serious about the environmental pollution and waste disposal problems.
As a result most of the developed countries close their dying and printing industries so as to overcome the environmental
pollution problem. Germany was the first to take initiative to put ban on production and use of numerous specific azo dyes.
Netherlands, India and some other countries also followed the ban of such dyes [22].
Indian Government also serious about this matter and framed rules & regulations for control of such dyeing & printing plants.
In 1970s and 80s, the farmers created agitation against a dyeing and printing plant at Sanganer, Rajasthan, who disposed the
effluents of chemical dyes in the agricultural land and leads to uncultivable and unpotable water. Same condition was happening
in Tirupur in Tamilnadu, where the farmers created agitation, which led to shutdown of about 70% of chemical dyeing units in
2011[39]. On the other hand, natural dyes are biodegradable and do not cause any health hazards and hence they can be easily
used without much environment concerns. So, natural dyes provide a reasonable solution to these problems. Of course, natural
dyes have certain inherent drawbacks and technical problems in terms of commercial application to textile substrate. Some of the
common downsides are:
JETIR2309594 Journal of Emerging Technologies and Innovative Research (JETIR) www.jetir.org f773
© 2023 JETIR September 2023, Volume 10, Issue 9 www.jetir.org(ISSN-2349-5162)

 adaptation of traditional dyeing processes on modern equipment [63]

 supply of dye-houses with the required amount of plant material [63]
 standardization of extraction and dyeing of the plant material [13]
 selection of plant material and processes that yield products with acceptable fastness properties [13]
 Reproducibility of shades [52]
 Difficult to standardize the recipe and methods [52]
 Lack of availability of standardized methods and precise technical know-how on extraction and dyeing techniques.[14,52]
 The aqueous extract of natural dyes causes fungi growth if not used within 24-48 hours.[52]
 Use of metallic mordant or metal salts such as copper, cobalt, chromium etc.in some of the dyes, which are not eco-friendly.
[14]
 Lack of proper knowledge about the natural sources for producing the different colour & shade.

Despite such some of the disadvantages of natural dyes, use of natural materials and natural methods is considered to be a
choice that increases the value of a product and contributes to sustainable life in environmental, economic and sociologic senses
[26]. Nowadays, most of the commercial dyers and textile export houses have started re-looking to the maximum possibilities of
using natural dyes for dyeing and printing of different textiles for targeting niche market [4].

2. OBJECTIVES
It is observed and proved that most of the synthetic dyes are non-biodegradable, carcinogenic and generate water pollution as
well as waste disposal problems. On the other hand, natural dyes are biodegradable, eco-friendly, no health hazards and it has the
antimicrobial, medicinal properties. Thus, natural dyes will provide a reasonable alternative to synthetic dyes in view of its eco-
friendliness, environ-friendliness, no effluent generation, mild dyeing condition, medicinal benefits, ancient heritage and aesthetic
approach [10, 14, 46]. In fact natural dyes also have some drawbacks in terms of commercial application. Despite such common
disadvantages for application of natural dyes on textiles in large scale sector, it is widely used in decentralized sector in every
corner of India. Similarly, in the Assam and North Eastern region of India, it is seen that the coloration of textiles, especially on
eri silk, is mostly confined in handloom sectors and small scale exporters and sale with high valued products. They dyed the
textiles with traditional techniques and do not have standardized methods and precise technical know-how.
In Assam, it is perceived that plants are the major sources of natural colorants. But, most of the local dyer does not have the
comprehensive knowledge about the different local plants which can produce a particular colour or shade. Moreover, it is revealed
from the different published research paper that most of the research is carried out about the class of natural dyes, extract ion
methods, dyeing principles, fastness properties, medicinal uses etc. There is less research paper found in relation to the name of
the groups of colour yielding plants for producing a particular colour. Thus, the author tries to give a systematic study as per the
literature published (delimited to the referenced papers) about the different colour yielding plants available in Assam and
summarize the group of colour yielding plants for producing a particular colour or shade along with their fastness properties.

3. METHODOLOGY
A three stage procedure is followed so as to obtain the accurate conclusions for the literature review process. In the first stage,
the authors have searched the papers in the internet, books and journals from two different sources, one is the downloaded soft copy
from the internet through search engine and the other is hardcopy from the nearby libraries and friends. The downloaded materials
(research papers) are related to the name of the plants, sources, extraction, application, advantages & disadvantages of natural dyes.
In the second stage, a systematic review was carried out for all the downloaded and collected articles. After applying
inclusion/exclusion criteria some of the papers are rejected which are not relevant to the reviewing topics and the papers which
have the relevant materials to the investigated topic are selected for reviewing. Then, they are grouped together as per the nature of
similar content.
In the third stage, grouped papers are analyzed and synthesized according to the certain specific areas and finally summarized.
Lastly, the author’s conclusions are drawn based on the reviewed literatures.

4. SUMMARY OF LITERATURE REVIEW AND DISCUSSION

The development of natural dyes took place at the same time after the technique of weaving had been discovered in about
5000BC [NPTEL]. The earliest written record of the use of natural dyes was found in China dated 2600 BC
(www.quilthistory.com Quilt History ‐ The earliest dyes). In India, the Ajanta paintings, dated as far back as 1 st century AD,
where colourful garments worn by men and women perceived the use of natural dyeing and paintings.

4.1 Classification of Natural dyes

Natural dyes are mainly obtained from the renewable resources of nature such as plant leaves, roots, bark, flowers, fruits, and
animals, although some minerals are also available in the earth for painting and dyeing. These colorants cover a wide range o f
chemical classes including indigoid, antraquinone, alpha-napthquinone, flavones, flavonols dihydropyrans, anthocyanidins and
carotenoids [70]. Natural colorants can be classified in different groups based on their source of origin, chemical composition,
application and on the basis of colour / hue [4, 8 28,25]. The classification of natural dyes can be represented as below in fig.1.0.

JETIR2309594 Journal of Emerging Technologies and Innovative Research (JETIR) www.jetir.org f774
© 2023 JETIR September 2023, Volume 10, Issue 9 www.jetir.org(ISSN-2349-5162)

Based on Source of origin

 Vegetable origin: Derived from various parts of plant.
 Animal/Insect origin: Secretion of insects and dried insect bodies.
 Mineral origin: extracted from mineral source

Based on Chemical composition

(Indigoid, antraquinone, alpha-napthquinone, flavones, flavonols dihydropyrans,
anthocyanidins and carotenoids)
Natural Dyes

Based on Application
Substantive dyes & Adjective dyes
( Mordants, Acid, Basic, Vat, Direct, Disperse dyes)

Based on Hue
Colour Index Natural No. of Dyes Percent
Yellow 28 30.4
Orange 6 6.5
Red 32 34.8
Blue 3 3.3
Green 5 5.5
Brown 12 13.0
Black 6 6.5

Figure 1.0 Classification of Natural Dyes

Silk and wool fibres are mostly dyed with natural fibres as they have the strong affinity towards natural dye. On the other hand
cellulosic fibres, cotton, jute, linen have poor affinity for natural dyes and thus mordanting technique with exhaustion method of
dyeing is successfully used [28].

4.2 Plant based natural colour source

The plant based natural source of colour cannot be applied directly to the textile substrate. They have to be extracted properly
and converted to applicable state. K.H. Prabhu et al enlisted a list of natural dyes source and their applications, where the plants
species, common name, part used, colour application are incorporated [25]. Similarly, S.B. Gokhale et al also enlisted a list of
commonly dye yielding plants in India, where the author mentioned the botanical name & family, parts used, colouring
components, uses and mordants combination with the dyes for producing different colours [48]. Both the above mentioned papers
give a brief idea about the list of colour yielding plants available in India. But, all the species are not available in the Northeast
region of India. Moreover, the local peoples are practising the extraction and dyeing procedure with their traditional methods from
the available local plants in their nearby areas. A survey was conducted by A.V. Singh in the Nagaon district, Assam in 2014-15
[3]. In the study, the surveyor found that the processes of dyeing techniques are followed from generation to generation through
verbal transformation. The surveyor recorded the information on dye yielding plants, methods of dye preparation through
discussions from the volunteer respondents and mentioned in his paper.
After reviewing the referenced papers [1-67], the author revealed that there are number of information available in respect to
the various class of natural dye yielding plants, their extraction methods, dyeing procedures and advantages and drawbacks of
natural dyes. But, there is some shortage of direct information regarding the different group of plants available for producing a
particular colour. Thus, the author tries to make a list of available dye yielding plants, predominantly in the Assam, India for
producing a particular colour or shade. The summary of dye yielding plants in colour wise is prepared and tabulated as below in
Table 1.

Table 1 List of colour wise dye yielding plants in Assam, India

Colour Plants Name Botanical Name Parts used / Dyeing Hints

Croton joufra Roxb /
Euphorbiaceae Fresh Leaf paste- 100%
Gosmahudi (Mishing)
Indgofera ttinctoria L. /
Blue Papilionaceae Leaves & Twigs paste mixed with slake lime
Sibu (Karbi)
Piper betle L. /
Piperaceae Leaves & roots paste mixed with slake lime
Pan (Assamese)
Aparajita
Light Blue Clitoria ternatea Flowers-90.0%, Water-10.0% and lemon ½ crashed
(Butterfly pea)
Baphicacanthus cusia
Dark Blue Sibu (Karbi) Indigo Dry leaves and stem powder mixed with hot water
(Nees) Bremek

JETIR2309594 Journal of Emerging Technologies and Innovative Research (JETIR) www.jetir.org f775
© 2023 JETIR September 2023, Volume 10, Issue 9 www.jetir.org(ISSN-2349-5162)

Dark Blue Assam Indigo (Rom) Strobilanthes cusia Fresh Leaves boiled in water and dyed with vat dyeing process.
Light pista First pre-mordanted with 10% Myrobolan , then dyed with
Henna Lawsonia intermis
green Henna
First pre-mordanted with 10% Al2(SO4)3 , then dyed with
Pista green Henna Lawsonia intermis
Henna
First premordanted with 10% Myrobolan + 10% Al2(SO4)3
Light green Henna Lawsonia intermis
and dyed with Henna
First premordanted with 10% Myrobolan + 10% Fe3SO4 and
Shabby green Henna Lawsonia intermis
dyed with Henna
Kattha Acacia sundra Pre-mordanted with Alum or Harda, dyed with kattha at 800 C.
Premordanted with Alum or Harda , dyed with annatto dye at
Annatto Power Bixa orellan
800C
Brown Trema orientalis
Machmai (Assamese) Stem bark boiled in water
Blume
Eucalyptus
Eucalyptus Grinded leaves with water and Onion Ash mordanting
tereticornis
Eucalyptus
Light Brown Myrtaceae Crashed leaves with onion ash mordant
Camaldulensis
Light 2% Green dab (coconut) husk dye + 2% Lac dye (on Cotton
Dab(coconut) shell dye Arecaceae +
Reddish fibre) with
+Lac dye (stick lac) Kerria lacca
Brown 0.1% K2Cr2O7
Medium
Banana stem dye + Musa spp. + 2% banana stem dye + Lac dye (on Cotton fibre) with
Reddish
Lac dye (stick lac) Kerria lacca 0.1% K2Cr2O7
Brown
Eucalyptus
Myrtaceae Crashed leaves with Soap nut mordant
Camaldulensis
Mesaki Jati Koroi Sarcochlamys
Leaves & stem bark boiled in water
(Assamese) pulcherrima Gaud.
Radha sura (Assamese)
Delonix regia Raf. Flower petal with reproductive organ
Dark Brown / Gulmohar
Dab(coconut) shell dye Arecaceae +Kerria 2% Green dab (coconut) husk dye + 2% Lac dye (on silk fibre)
+Lac dye (stick lac) lacca with 0.5% Potash Alum
Tea Camellia sinensis Premordanted with Fe3SO4 , dyed with tea at boil.
Tamul (Assamese) / Grinding the young betel husk and post mordant with Lime
Areca Catechu
Betel Nut water
Pastel Brown Betel Nut Areca Catechu Crashed young betel nut husk, then post mordant with Alum
Yellowish Eucalyptus
Eucalyptus Grinded leaves with water and mordanting with Harda
Brown tereticornis
Blackish
Khoyar (Assamese) Acacia catechu wild Dry stem bark mixed with slakes lime with boiled in water
Brown
Terminalia
chebula/Myrobalan
Coffee Terminalia (Haritaki) + Xilikha -30.0%, Pomegranate-40.0%, Alum-20.0% and Ferous
(Haritaki) +
Colour Pomegranate Sulphate-10.0%.
Punica Granatum
(Pomegranate)
Deep Catechu brown dye + Acacia catechu % Blended catechu brown dye + 2%Lac dye with 0.5% Potash
Chocolate Lac dye +Kerria lacca Alum
Ghee
Rose Rosa rubiginosa Rose-80.0%, Eating Soda-05.0% and Water-15.0%.
(Cream)
Light Pink Tamarind Tamarindus indica Tamarind Peels-100.0%.
Light Pink Lac Kerria lacca First premordanted with 10% Myrobolan and dyed with Lac
Dark Pink Lac Kerria lacca First premordanted with 10% Al2(SO4)3 and dyed with Lac
First premordanted with 10% Myrobolan + 10% Al2(SO4)3
Pinkish Red Lac Kerria lacca
and dyed with Lac
Butea Monosperma + Palash flower-20.0%, Myobalan-30.0%, Alum-10.0% and
Palash + Myobalan
Terminalia chebula Water-40.0%.
Maroon
Rongapuroi (Assamese)
Basella alba L. Ripe fruit mixed with alum
/Malabar Spinach
First mordant with aluminium acetate for cellulosic or with
Marigold Tagetes
alum for protein fibre, then dyed with extracted marigold dyes
Adina cordifolia
Keli kadam (Assamese) Chips of heart wood boiled in water
Benth & Hook.f
Yellow
Bael or Bel (Assamese)
Aegle marmelos
/ Crushed fruit shell boiled in water
Correa ex Roxb.
Wood Apple
Ingtat arong (Karbi) / Artocarpus lakoocha Chips heart wood boiled in water
JETIR2309594 Journal of Emerging Technologies and Innovative Research (JETIR) www.jetir.org f776
© 2023 JETIR September 2023, Volume 10, Issue 9 www.jetir.org(ISSN-2349-5162)

Mnkey fruit Roxb.

Kurial (Deori) /
Kanchan / Bauhina purpurea L. Stem bark boiled with slakes lime
Butterfly tree
Kath halodi (Assamese)
Berberies aristata DC Stem boiled in water
/ Daru haldhi
Haludi (Assamese) / Curcuma domestica
Rhizome boiled in water with slakes lime
Turmeric Valeton
Radha sura (Assamese)
Delonix regia Raf. Flower mixed with turmeric
/ Gulmohar
Ervatamia divaricate
Togor (Assamese) Fruit pulp around the seeds boiled in water
(Linn.) Alston
Garcinia morella
Kuji thkera (Assamese) Gum from ripe fruit mixed with alum
Desr.
Tepor-tenga Garcinia
Stem bark & fruit gum grinded & boiled in water
(Assamese) xanthochymus Hk.f.
Kopah (Assamese) / Gossypium
Fresh flowers paste
Cotton herbaceum L.
Chubaiata (Assamese) Mussaenda frondos L. Leaves boiled in water
Naga Tenga Myrica esculenta
Stem Bark boiled with slake lime
(Assamese) Buch. Ham
Noga bhomloti Symplocos
Leaves & Stem Bark boiled withwater
(Assamese) cochnichinesis Moore
Symplocos oxyphylla
Tam tingali (Assamese) Stem bark boiled in water
Wall
Sagoon (Assamese) / Tectona grandis L.f.
Stem bark boiled in water
Teak (Verbenaceae)
Rongalong (Assamese) Trifolium prtense L. Flowers boiled with alum
Terminalia
chebula/Myrobalan
Xilikha (Haritaki) + Xilikha -30.0%, Pomegranate-40.0%, Alum-20.0% and water-
Golden (Haritaki) +
Pomegranate (Dalim) 10.0%.
Punica Granatum
(Pomegranate)
Light Yellow Palash Butea Monosperma Butea (Palash)-50.0%, Alum-05.0% and Water-45.0%
Reddish Woodforrdia
Dhaiphool (Assamese) Flowers paste with little water
Yellow fruiticosa Kurz
Mangifera indica L./
Piium guajava L.
Aam, Madhuri, Silikha
/Terminalia chebula Dried stem bark of all four plants powered and boiled
and Jamun (Assamese)
Retz./ Syzygium
cuminii
Black
Rauvolfia tetraphylla
Arsontita (Bodo) Fruit juice mixed with alum
L.
Syzygium cuminii L.
Jamun (Assamese) Stem bark boiled in water with slake line
Skells
Silikha (Assamese) Terminalia catappa L. Fruit with alum boiled in water
Red Black Bakam (Assamese) Caesalpinia sappan L. Stem bark and heart wood decoction in water with iron
Bluish Black Jetuka (Assamese) Lawsonia inermis L. Leaves crashed with leaves of Indigofera tinctoria for paste
Joroth (Assamese) /
Bixa orelllana L. Dry Seed powder mixed with slake lime
Red Beri
Gongari (Deori) Mallotus philippenis Ripe fruits crushed and boiled in water
Orange Nyctanthes
Sewali (Assamese) Fresh flower paste boiled in water with alum addition
arbor-tristis L.
Pterospermum
Bonbogori (Assamese) Stem bark, leaves, gum grinded and boiled in water
lanceaefolium Roxb
Impatiens balsamina
Orange Red Ushahul (Bodo) Stem, leaves and flower paste and boiled in water
L.
Godhuli gopal
Mirabilisjalapa L. Flower paste boiled in water
(Assamese)
Morinda angustifolia
Red Achu goch (Assamese) Stem chips or root treated with slake lime
Roxb
Rongapotia goch Poinsettia
Flower boiled with alum
(Assamese) pulcherrima Graham
Albizia odoratissima
Brick Red Jatikoroi (Assamese) Fresh stem bark boiled in water
Benth
Deep Red Banana stem dye + Musa spp. + Kerria 2% waste banana stem dye + 2% Lac dye (On silk fibre) with
JETIR2309594 Journal of Emerging Technologies and Innovative Research (JETIR) www.jetir.org f777
© 2023 JETIR September 2023, Volume 10, Issue 9 www.jetir.org(ISSN-2349-5162)

Lac dye lacca 0.5% Potash Alum

The summary report in reference to colour yielding plants for a particular colour, as prepared in the Table-1, is after reviewing
the papers mentioned in the referenced section. But, during preparation of the table most of the included information is included
from the A. K. Samanta et al [1], A. Kar et al [2], S. Chakravarty [55], K. Chandra Rath et al [24], S. Khatun et al [56], W. S.
Laitonjam et al [67], G. Tripathi et al [20], K.C. Rath et al [24]. After thorough study the data of the above table and the different
research articles mentioned in the reference section, the following inferences can be drawn.
 A dyeing plant can produce variety of shades of same colour based on the use or non-using of mordant in the dyeing process.
 A dyeing plant can produce variety of shades of same colour based on the amount of mordant used in the dyeing process.
 Yellow and brown colour yielding plants are mostly available in the northeast region in comparison to other colour.
 To produce secondary or tertiary colour two or more than two colour yielding plants with compatible nature can be mixed at
the time of dyeing just like synthetic dyes.
 Same dyeing recipe produces different hue when dyed with cotton or silk fibre.
 Cotton or silk fibre shows different hue even when they are dyed from the same dyeing recipe and condition.
 Majority of the natural dye process involves the use of natural or metallic mordant [6]. Post-mordanted dyed sample shows
better colour fastness than pre-mordanted procedure [66].
 Instead of artificial mordant enzymatic dyeing method to prevent environmental pollution. The enzymatic method at low
temperature on silk shows higher dye absorption, colour strength and good colour fastness with low pollution to environment
[53].

4.3 Natural dye market and Brands

From the information available in the internet, it is observed that there are number of companies in India and abroad producing
natural dyes and marketing, mostly in small pacing for home-use or for small scale dyeing. The Natural Dyes Market size is
estimated to reach US$4.5 billion by 2027 and it is projected to grow at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 8.6% from
2022-to 2027 [68]. As natural dyes has the UV protection, anti-microbial, anti-bacterial, anti-insect etc. properties, a number of
brands in the fashion and textile industry has emerges and available in the market under various trade names.

5. CONCLUSIONS
In today’s world, the consumers are very much interested in using the naturally dyed garments due to its non-toxic, non-
carcinogenic nature and as a whole due to its number of beneficial properties. The demand of naturally dyed product is increased
day-by-day and it will be augmented in the near future too. There are plentiful dye yielding plants in Assam and the people of
Assam are practising natural dyeing of textiles since early days. Earlier, dyeing with natural dyes in Assam was restricted to the
various tribes with their traditional dyeing technique from locally available products. For the last few decades numbers of
research works have been carried out on natural dyes by the researchers from educational institutions, research organisations,
social organisations etc. As a result, some information on natural dyes and its application processes are available in the form of
books, journal, leaflets etc.
Through this review, the author attempts to provide certain specific information about the natural colour yielding plants
available in the state of Assam. However, the practice of natural dyeing is performed by the local entrepreneur in small sector and
supplied to the local, national and international market. But, this is just a small contribution towards the world’s huge demand of
naturally dyed product. Thus, there is tremendous scope for production of natural dyed & printed products in large scale and
export to the international market. Thus, it is very much essential to establish and documented the scientific procedure of natural
dyeing technique for each and every class of natural dye. To do so, an integrated effort from the researchers, people of academic
institutions, Non-government Organisations, Industry people must exercise experimental & research project for proper
documentation of dyeing, printing process.

REFERENCES

[1] A. K. Samanta, Sunanda Mitra Roy (2017). “Dyeing of cotton yarns with Latkan wood, Hena, Lac & Turmeric” in
books: Handloom Textiles & Natural Dyes.Edited By-Ashish Mitra, Visva-Bharati, Department of Silpa-Sadana,
WB, pp:188-193.
[2] A. Kar & SK Borthakur. (2008). Dye yielding plants of Assam for dyeing handloom textile products. Indian Journal of
Traditional Knowledge, 7(1):166-171.
[3] A. Victor Singh (2017). Study on Dye Yielding Plants of The Karbis of Nagaon, Assam. International Journal of
Advanced Research, 5(7):382-385.
[4] A. K. Samanta and A. Konar (2011). “Dyeing of Textiles with Natural Dyes” in books: Natural Dyes, Edited by E.
Perrin Akçakoca Kumbasar, 29-56. DOI:10.5772/1817
[5] A. Kamboj and Surabhi Mahajan. (2018). Development of silk Kurtis with tie and dye technique using natural dyes.
Asian Journal of Home Science, 13(1): 175-179.
[6] A. Kumar Samanta and Adwaita Konar.(2011). Dyeing of Textiles with Natural Dyes, Natural Dyes, Dr. Emriye
Akcakoca Kumbasar (Ed.), ISBN: 978-953-307-783-3, InTech, Available from:
http://www.intechopen.com/books/natural-dyes/dyeing-of-textiles-with-natural-dyes. pp:29-56.
[7] A. N. Banerjee , OP Kotnala & Sankar Roy Maulik. (2017). Dyeing of Eri silk with natural dyes in presence of natural
mordants. Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge, 17(2):396-399.

JETIR2309594 Journal of Emerging Technologies and Innovative Research (JETIR) www.jetir.org f778
© 2023 JETIR September 2023, Volume 10, Issue 9 www.jetir.org(ISSN-2349-5162)

[8] A.Tamilarasi (2021). Classification and types of natural dyes: A brief review. International Journal of Creative
Research Thoughts (IJCRT), 9(11): c527-c532.
[9] Ado A , Yahaya H. , Kwalli A. A. , & Abdul kadir R. S. (2014). Dyeing of textiles with eco-friendly natural dyes: A
review. International Journal of Environmental Monitoring and Protection; 1(5): 76-81.
[10] A. Mukherjee (2017). “Innovative dyeing and printing with natural dyes” in books: Handloom Textiles & Natural
Dyes. Edited By-Ashish Mitra, Visva-Bharati, Department of Silpa-Sadana, WB, pp:188-193.
[11] B. Patel and p. Kanade (2019). Top Dyeing of Silk using natural dyes. Asian Dyer, June-July 2019, pp:63-66.
[12] B. Sutradhar , D. Deb , K. Majumdar & B.K. Datta (2015). Short Communication: Traditional dye yielding plants of
Tripura, Northeast India. 16 (2): 121-127.
[13] Borland V.S. (2000). Natural resources: animal and vegetable fibers for the 21st century. American. Textile. Industry,
29(6): 66–70.
[14] D. Pargai, S. Jahan and M. Gahlot (2020). “Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles” in Chemistry and
Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933.
[15] D. N. V. Satyanarayana & K. Ramesh Chandra (2013). Dyeing Of Cotton Cloth with Natural Dye Extracted From
Pomegranate Peel and its Fastness. International Journal Of Engineering Sciences & Research Technology,
2(10):2664-2669.
[16] Ekta Grover, Anshu Sharma, Bhawana Rawat, Susan Paul & Shahnaz Jahan. (2005). Article in International Dyer,
November 2005: pp.9-16.
[17] E. Catharine. (2016). Applications of Cross Dyeing with Natural Dyes. Textile Society of America Symposium
Proceedings. 953. pp.108-116.
[18] G. Tripathi, M. K. Yadav, P. Padhyay & S. Mishra (2015). Natural dyes with future aspects in dyeing of Textiles: A
research article. International Journal of PharmTech Research, 8(1):096-100.
[19] Gajendra CV, Kumaran K and Uma D (2019). Eucalyptus bark as a novel source for dyeing silk fabric. International
Journal of Chemical Studies, 7(3): 818-823.
[20] G. Tripathi , Mukesh Kumar Yadav,Yogesh Kumar Tiwari. (2017). Cotton fabric dyeing process Eucalyptus
camaldulensis leave’s from natural dye. International Journal of ChemTech Research, 10(9) : 79-82.
[21] Hana Křížová (2015). “Natural dyes: their past, present, future and sustainability” in book: Recent Developments in
Fibrous Material Science (pp.59-71)
[22] J. Arora, P. Agarwal, G. Gupta (2017). Rainbow of Natural Dyes on Textiles Using Plants Extracts: Sustainable and
Eco-Friendly Processes. Green and Sustainable Chemistry, 7, 35-47. https://doi.org/10.4236/gsc.2017.71003.
[23] K Elsahida, A M Fauzi, I Sailah & I Z Siregar (2019). Sustainability of the use of natural dyes in the textile industry.
IOP Conference series: Earth and Environmental Science. 399 012065. doi:10.1088/1755-1315/399/1/012065.
[24] K. Chandra Rath, Biswanath Sethi. (2017). Cytotoxic Effect of Silk Dyeing Industry Effluents on the Mitotic Cells of
Allium cepa. European Journal of Zoological Research, 5 (2):10-16.
[25] K. H. Prabhu and Aniket S Bhute (2012). Plant based natural dyes and mordants: A Review. Scholars Research
Library. J. Nat. Prod. Plant Resour, 2(6):649-664.
[26] S. D. Doğan & M. Akan (2018). A Research on Colours and Fastness Values of Different Materials Dyed with Some
Natural Dyes. International Journal of Materials Science and Applications. 7(3): 69-74. doi:
10.11648/j.ijmsa.20180703.11.
[27] K. Terangpi (2021). Importance of the Indigenous Plant Knowledge: Study of Selected Plant Species Culturally Used
by the Karbi Community of Karbi Anglong District, North-East India. Agrobiodiversity & Agroecology, 01(01): 65-
78. Doi: https://doi.org/10.33002/aa010104
[28] L. Chungkrang and Smita Bhuyan (2020). Natural Dye Sources and its Applications in Textiles: A Brief Review.
International Journal of Current Microbiology and Applied Sciences, 9(10):261-269.
[29] Lokesh P and Kumara Swamy M (2013). Extraction of natural dyes from Spathodea campanulata and its application
on silk fabrics and cotton. Pelagia Research Library, 4(1):111-115.
[30] M. Gias Uddin (2015). Study on the color levelness of silk fabric dyed with vegetable dyes. Uddin. Sustain Chem
Process (2015) 3:10 DOI 10.1186/s40508-015-0038-1.
[31] M. L. Gulrajani (2001). Present Status of Natural Dyes. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, Vol.26: pp. 191-
201.
[32] M. Gogoi & Anumoni Gogoi (2017). Traditional Natural Colour of Assam. International Journal of scientific research
and management, 5(1):5026-5035.
[33] M. Yusuf, Mohd Shabbir & Faqeer Mohammad (2017). Natural Colorants: Historical, Processing and Sustainable
Prospects. Published with open access at Springerlink.com. DOI 10.1007/s13659-017-0119-9.
[34] N. Gogoi & B. Kalita. (1999). Dyeing of silk with natural dye(Part-I). Colourage, January-1999, pp.23-26.
[35] N. S. Mat Hussin, A. R. Ismail, S. W. Hasbullah & N. Abdul Kadi (2020). Properties Of Textiles Dyed With Young
Adonidia Merillii (Betel Nut) Fruit Husk. International Journal Of Scientific & Technology Research, 9(3): 1917-
1922.
[36] Netra Lal Bhandari, Kabita Bist, Jyoti Ghimire , Santosh Chaudhary , Durga Prasad Pandey, Rameshwar Adhikari
(2020). Feasibility Study of the Euphorbia Pulcherrima Plant Extract As Natural Dye With Different Mordants For
Fabric Dyeing. Journal of Institute of Science and Technology, 25(1): 30-36.

JETIR2309594 Journal of Emerging Technologies and Innovative Research (JETIR) www.jetir.org f779
© 2023 JETIR September 2023, Volume 10, Issue 9 www.jetir.org(ISSN-2349-5162)

[37] P. Kampeerapappun, K. Wongwandee & S. Janon. (2020). Dyeing properties and color fastness of eri silk yarn dyed
with soaked red kidney bean water. Journal of Metals, Materials and Minerals, 30(4): 51-59.
[38] P. Kanti Das and A Kumar Mondal (2012). The Dye Yielding Plants Used In Traditional Art Of 'Patchitra' In Pingla
And Mat Crafts In Sabang With Prospecting Proper Medicinal Value In The Paschim Medinipur District, West
Bengal, India. International Journal of Life Science Biotechnology and Pharma Research, 1(2): 158-171.
[39] P.Tolat Balaram (2017). “Eco-friendly dyes of India” in books: Handloom Textiles & Natural Dyes.Edited By-Ashish
Mitra, Visva-Bharati, Department of Silpa-Sadana, WB, pp:182-187.
[40] Patel, N. (2011). Natural Dye Based Sindoor. Life Sciences Leaflets, 11, 355 to 362.
[41] Pubalina Samanta, Deepali Singhee and Ashis Kumar Samanta (2018). Fundamentals of Natural Dyeing of Textiles:
Pros and Cons. Current Trends in Fashion Technology & Textile Engineering, 2(4): 69-76.
[42] R. Chakrabarti and A. Vignesh . Natural Dyes: Application, Identification and Standardization. Available online in
www.fibre2fashion.com. (Accessed on July.24, 2022).
[43] R. Siva. (2007). Status on natural dyes and dye-yielding plants in India. Current Science, 92(7):916-925.
[44] R. Kanchana, Apurva Fernandes, Bhargavi Bhat, Saurabhi Budkule, Santeshwari Dessai & Reshma Mohan (2013).
Dyeing Of Textiles With Natural Dyes - An Eco-Friendly Approach. International Journal of ChemTech Research,
5(5), pp 2102-2109.
[45] R. Siva (2007). Status of natural dyes and ye-yielding plants in India. Current Science, 92(7): 916-925.
[46] R. Jihad [2014]. Dyeing of Silk Using Natural Dyes Extracted From Local Plants. International Journal of Scientific &
Engineering Research, 5(11): 809-818.
[47] S. Khatun, G.R.M. A. M. Khan, L. Rahman. K. Hossain, D. Talukdar & M. Khatun. (2012). Extraction Of Natural
(Dab Shell And Latkan) Dyes Blended It With Synthetic (Reactive Red And Methyel Orange) Dyes And Observe
Their Dyeing Effects On Silk And Cotton Fibre. IOSR Journal of Applied Chemistry (IOSR-JAC), 2(6): 45-47.
[48] S. B. Gokhale, A. U. Tatiya, S. R. Bakliwal & R. A. Fursule (2004). Natural Dye Yielding Plants in India. Natural
Product Radiance, 3(4): 228-234.
[49] S. Bhuyan and N. Gogoi (2013). Value addition of Eri silk yarns with Datura stramoniumA natural colourant. J.
Acad. Indus. Res. Vol. 1(9):530-532.
[50] S. Dolanbay Dogan & Meral Akan (2018). A Research on Colours and Fastness Values of Different Materials Dyed
with Some Natural Dyes. International Journal of Materials Science and Applications, 7(3): 69-74.
[51] S. Jyotsna Gogoi, N. Gogoi and B. Baishya Kalita (2019). Tea Leaves; A herbal dye on ERI silk. Journal of
Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 8(6):442-446.
[52] S. Roy Moulik (2017). “Natural Dye – an overview” in books: Handloom Textiles & Natural Dyes.Edited By-Ashish
Mitra, Visva-Bharati, Department of Silpa-Sadana, WB, pp:170-175.
[53] S. Salimpour Abkenar (2021). Traditional Dyeing of Silk with Natural Dyes by EcoFriendly Method. International
Scholarly and Scientific Research & Innovation 15(6): 133-136.
[54] Salauddin Sk M, Mia R, Haque MA, Shamim AM 92021). Review on Extraction and Application of Natural Dyes.
Texti le & Leather Review. 2021. https://doi.org/10.31881/TLR.2021.09
[55] Sangeeta Chakravarty and Rani Hazarika Kakaty. (2015). An Analytical Study on Traditional Techniques of Dyeing
Textiles with Natural Dyes in Assam, India. Global Journal of Arts, Humanities and Social Sciences. (Published by
European Centre for Research Training and Development UK), 3(10) : 1-7.
[56] Seatara Khatun, G.R.M. Astaq Mohal Khan, Md. Lutfor Rahman, Md. Jahidul Islam, Md. Farid Ahmed, Md. Ruhul
Amin, Md. Saifullahhel Ali Azom. (2016). Extraction of natural dyes and their utilization on silk and cotton fibres.
Int. J. Bus. Soc. Sci. Res., 5(1): 67-70.
[57] Seatara Khatun, G.R.M. Astaq Mohal Khan, Md. Lutfor Rahman, Md. Jahidul Islam, Md. Farid Ahmed, Md. Ruhul
Amin, Md. Saifullahhel Ali Azom (2016). Extraction of natural dyes and their utilization on silk and cotton fibres. Int.
J. Bus. Soc. Sci. Res. 5(1): 67-70.
[58] ST-Natural Dyes 5.2.3\Them Doc\ Paper: A future vision for natural dyeing in India\Ver 3 final, Uzramma. This theme
paper is available in https://kalpavriksh.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Natural-Dyeing-paper-December-2001.pdf
(Accessed on Sept.18, 2023)
[59] Sujata Saxena and A. S. M. Raja (2014). “Natural Dyes: Sources, Chemistry, Application and Sustainability Issues” in
Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing. Textile Science and Clothing Technology, DOI: 10.1007/978-981-287-
065-0_2, pp:37-80.
[60] T. Karthik and D. Gopalakrishnan (2014). Environmental Analysis of Textile Value Chain: An Overview. Textile
Science and Clothing Technology, DOI: 10.1007/978-981-287-110-7_6, pp:153-188.
[61] Teklemedhin TB & Gopalakrishnan LH (2018). Environmental Friendly Dyeing of Silk Fabric with Natural Dye
Extracted from Cassia singueana Plant. Journal of Textile Science & Engineering, S3:001 doi: 10.4172/2165-8064.S3-
001, pp: 01-06.
[62] Teli M. D, Paul. R, Pardeshi P.D (2000). Natural dyes: Classification, chemistry and extraction methods. Part I:
Chemical classes, extraction methods and future prospects.
[63] Uddin MDT, Akhtarul Islam S, Mahmoud Rukanuzzaman MD (2009). Journal of Hazardous Material, 164 (1): 53-60.
[64] V. Kumar Gupta (2020). “Fundamentals of Natural Dyes and Its Application on Textile Substrates” in books:
Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments. DOI:
http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933.
[65] V. Narayana Swamy, K. N. Ninge Gowda & R. Sudhaka (2014). Eco-Friendly Natural Dye for Cotton and Silk
Fabrics. Life Science Leaflets, Vol. 51, pp: 90-99.
JETIR2309594 Journal of Emerging Technologies and Innovative Research (JETIR) www.jetir.org f780
© 2023 JETIR September 2023, Volume 10, Issue 9 www.jetir.org(ISSN-2349-5162)

[66] V. Narayana Swamy (2020). Analysis and Study of Effect of Natural Dye From Bombax malabarica on Silk Fabric.
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 38(1): 49-58.
[67] W. S. Laitonjam, L. Potsangbam, S. D. Wangkheirakpam. (2014). Comparative study of the natural dyes derived
from two indigenous plants of north-eastern India on silk and cotton fabrics. International Journal of Natural Products
Research, 4(1) : 15-18.
[68] https://www.industryarc.com/Research/Global-Natural-Dyes-Market-Research-511877. Accessed on Sept.28, 2023.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I would like to thank all the authors and researchers of the papers which included in my review paper. This review paper is only
possible due to their valuable information provided in their research papers. Above all, thanks to the Great Almighty, for his
countless love and blessings.

JETIR2309594 Journal of Emerging Technologies and Innovative Research (JETIR) www.jetir.org f781