LS Installation Instructions

Thank-you for choosing Swap Specialties and Performance for your LS project needs. Expect everything to be the
highest of quality, craftsmanship, and detail. Every product is 100% tested and carries a limited lifetime warranty.
Please follow these simple guidelines to ensure proper installation and function of your product(s).

Getting to know your Powertrain Control Module

(PCM)

Your PCM from Swap comes tuned for standalone operation free of the vehicle of its origin. Some minor
performance and drivability enhancements have been altered in the computer to give your engine the best
performance and ease of economy. Some changes may need to be made and/or programmed if you have
made engine enhancements such as:

Larger Fuel Injectors

Aftermarket Camshaft
Electronic Transmission Enhancements
Turbo or Supercharger Installation
Significant Internal Motor Modifications
Gear Ratio and Tire Size of your project

We can provide the changes you need with our simple and fast Mail-In program. We do recommend that any major
motor modifications be tuned on a dynamometer by a professional to achieve maximum potential and operation.

Installation
Your PCM is a factory manufactured unit and is completely weatherproof. Many popular mounting
locations are on fenders, under dash, under battery trays, and on a firewall- The options are virtually
endless. However, DO NOT MOUNT IN CLOSE PROXIMITY TO HEAT such as close to exhaust or heat
exchanger.

Mounting brackets are available for your PCM but some fabrication may be needed to fit in custom areas.
As will all electrical components, do not weld on, screw to, or drill any PCM. Vital interior components of
the computers are sensible to electricity and must not be tampered with.
It's Harness Time!

Your standalone harness comes setup to run from the PASSENGER REAR of the engine unless otherwise
ordered. The harness will come with a "Natural" form to fit the motor and intake and ensure ease of
installation. Please keep adequate clearances from exhaust and tight areas to prevent any issues down the
road. Also assure any tight wires may need to be rerouted to ensure integrity.

Connectors and wires will all be labeled accordingly. Furthermore, each wire and connector is formed to
specific lengths to reach components. If for any reason something looks like it wont reach, please take the
time to ensure you have the correct item you are trying to connect.

Relay & Fuse Box

The relay and fuse box is completely weatherproof and can be mounted anywhere on the vehicle. A
diagram on the inside cover shows relay and fuse location. This can be a main point of troubleshooting if
problems ever arise.

ALL RELAYS COME WITH WIRE OUTPUTS. All output wires are labeled and appropriate lengths.

The wires provided are not long enough?

If you need to extend any wires please make sure the wire size is the same size or larger. DO
NOT use "crimp connects" as these are not weatherproof and my malfunction as time passes.
Please use a rosin-core solder if possible to connect any extending wires and use a heat shrink
sleeve to shield and cover the joint.
Where do my wires go to?

Battery Do I need this? YES!

The back of the fuse box has a 1/4" stud. A wire DIRECTLY FROM THE BATTERY needs to be run to this post.
A minimum of 10 GA WIRE or larger should be used. This fuse box protects the entire setup so no need to
fuse this connection.
DO NOT setup a disconnect to this wire. The PCM learns your driving habits, power and efficiency data, and
fuel habits and it needs battery power to store it. If you kill power to the battery the computer has to learn
this data from the start and may ultimately harm its processor.

12v Key IGN Do I need this? YES!

This wire needs to see 12v with ignition on AND WHILE CRANKING. Also known as IGN 1, this wire tells the
computer when you turn the key on and also shuts the system down.
Popular locations for this wire should the key switch only. The engine will not shut down until this wire
looses power. If you cannot connect it directly to the key switch please refer to a wire that is not powering
another vehicle component- A draw could keep this circuit hot or make it loose power while cranking

Fuel Pump Do I need this? YES!

This wire is the output from your fuel pump relay. This needs to go directly to the fuel pump "+" terminal
on the pump. A 12v supply with max of 15 amps will be supplied. For dual pump setups please assure a
jumper wire from pumps or addition to this wire is soldered securely and shielded from weather.

Fan 1 and Fan 2 Do I need this? Only if you are running electric fans
These wires are outputs from your fan relays. These provide power to your fan(s) and need to go directly
to the "+" on each fan. Of course, you will need to ground out the other wire on the fans themselves.
I'm Not Running Electric Fans?
No Problem, Just omit this step and don’t install these wires. It will not make a difference in the
system itself. If you ever want to add these relays and wires just let us know, we have the hook-
up!

CE Light Do I need this? No

This here is your Check Engine Light. This wire PROVIDES THE GROUND for the light operation. The other
side of your light will need to see 12v IGN1, not battery power. This light functions just like a normal car
and will illuminate if the engine is not running or if the computer senses an issue.

Tach Do I need this? No

This wire is a tachometer OUTPUT. It gives a output signal for a gauge hookup. Keep in mind different
gauges use different signals to operate. Refer to your gauge manual for proper operation

Speedo Do I need this? No

Yup, just like it says, this wire is a speedo output for your convenience. Again, all gauges are different so
please refer to your gauge manual to see what your gauge is looking for. This is a standard GM 4k output.
 Brake Switch Do I need this? Only on 4L and 6L electronic transmission
This wire needs to see 12 volts when the vehicle brakes are NOT applied. It is for transmission operation
and makes sure the torque converter unlocks when you are stopping. Think of this wire as opposite of the
brake lights…..

On to the good stuff….

Ground Eyelet
This eyelet needs to be fastened to the back of the cylinder head. There are lots of open spots, pick a good
one and bolt it down.

O2 Bank 1
This is the upstream sensor for bank #1. Cylinders 1,3 5, and 7 are trimmed from this sensors reading. The
sensors need to see all 4 cylinders to read correctly. Please put these as close to or in a collector/collection
point. The hotter the sensor gets the better it works.

O2 Bank 2
Just the same as the above but for the opposite side, Bank 2. Cylinders 2,4 6, and 8. DO NOT MIX THESE
UP. It will confuse the computer and you will get an extremely rich or lean condition.

My O2 connectors are different than the harness?

It's possible, GM uses many different sensors and it can be confusing! For simplicity sake please
run the same connectored O2's as what is on the harness. Some PCM's need certain sensors to
read correctly. Please let us know if you have any questions here.

I am not going to run Oxygen Sensors?

If you are running a very high performance setup, or your tuner doesn't use O2's they will need
to be programmed out of the PCM. These are fuel trim devices and sometimes boats or race
cars run without them. This setup is called "Open Loop"

Knock Sensors
Depending on the motor you are running, there are 2 different configurations- they are shown below. Just
plug it in and your all set. These sensors detect spark knock and protect the motor accordingly. If you do
not run these they need to be programmed out of the PCM function.
Gen 3 24x Located at Rear of Block Gen 4 58x Located on Side of Block
Crank Sensor (CKP)
The crank position sensor (CKP) is the sensor that is the PCM uses with the Cam positon sensor to fire
injectors and adjust timing control. The sensor is a 3 pin plug located behind the starter on the passenger
side of the block. 24x engines have a BLACK connector and 58x engines have a GREY connector.

How to check your Crank Position Sensor?

If you have everything all set to go and your motor will not start, well the Crank Position Sensor
is a good place to start and likely culprit. To check this sensor turn the key on once the entire
setup is installed. The fuel pump will cycle or "prime" when you do so. Next crank the engine
over, if the fuel pump DOES NOT come back on then the sensor is likely faulty. Also, if you have
a scan tool you will not be getting an RPM reading during cranking as well. IT IS IMPORTANT
TO USE A HIGHER QUALITY OEM SENSOR as opposed to a Off-Branded one.

Cam Position Sensor (CMP)

The Cam Position Sensor (CMP) is used by the PCM to judge injector timing as well as spark timing. This is
a 3 pin connector and can vary in location. Some 58x engines have the capability to adjust the Camshaft's
position in which you will have a larger connector on your harness. For most 24x engines the stock location
is in the rear of the block right behind the manifold (where a distributor would usually set). On 58x engines
the factory location is in the front of the block on the mid to upper driver side timing chain cover.
Gen 3 24x Gen 4 58x

MAP Sensor
The Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP) relays the negative or positive pressure to the computer.
The computer then uses it to judge engine loading and adjust fuel and spark control. The sensor is a 3 pin
connector located in the manifold usually along the top half of the manifold.

I am running an aftermarket intake without a MAP sensor.

Some aftermarket intake manifolds do not come with a provision or hole for a MAP sensor. You
will need to have the manifold drilled to accept the sensor, it cannot be tuned out.

What kind of sensor do I use

There are a lot of types of sensors on the market. We suggest you use a stock application
sensor unless your tuner tells you otherwise. Your PCM tune will need to be setup to accept a
different style that factory (1 Bar, 2 Bar, 2.5 Bar, 3 Bar). The only difference between these
sensors is pressure range it which it can read. DO NOT USE A CHEAP AFTERMARKET SENSOR.
Its best to stay with a OEM or higher quality sensor in this case.
Fuel Injectors
On to these babies…… Your harness will be setup with factory injector connectors unless otherwise
ordered. These 2 pin connectors should be set up to reach 1 and only 1 injector, they fire in sequential
order and cannot be swapped around. Bank 1 cylinder will be labeled #1 and bank 2 #2 cylinder will be
marked #2.

I'm not running stock injectors?

Please let us know, do not cut into the harness yourself as it will void all warranties. The PCM
will also have to be tuned to run a different size injector. If you have a stock motor we
recommend you do not change the size (they are rated by lbs./flow). Consult a tuner or us for
recommendations and advise on injector sizing higher HP motors.

Coolant Temp Sensor

The ECT sensor is located in the front of the driver side cylinder head. It is a 2 pin connector and is in the
same location on all LS style engines.

Did you know?

There is a port in the back of the Passenger head you can use for your Temp Gauge! Instead of
trying to "T" into the existing temp sensor, put a sending unit in the passenger head to run your
engine Temp gauge from.

Coil Packs
Each engine has a sub harness that routes the coil pack wiring to a single plug on each valve cover. The
standalone harness you purchased has a single white plug on both Bank1 and Bank2 that plug into these
sub harnesses. That’s it, coils are done! If you need this sub harness, please contact us and we will be
happy to get you setup with one (or two).

What if I'm Relocating my Coils?

You will have to purchase an extension or relocation harness to accommodate for any engine
setup with the coils NOT mounted on the factory position (valve covers)

Alternator
Each harness is built for the factory alternator, in the factory position, unless otherwise specified and
acknowledged. The harness will reach in BOTH and high mount and a low mount location. If you are
running a different style of alternator you will need to purchase an Adapter from us to accommodate a
different style plug.

TPS and IAC (DBC Setup ONLY)

On Drive-by-cable setups there is an IAC and TPS located on the Driver side of the throttle body. These
control Idle and throttle input. Simply just plug these into their designated plugs and you are ready to roll!
Drive-by-wire operations have these sensors built into the internals of the throttle body.

My Engine isn't Idling Correctly!?

Please call us! There are many factors that affect the idle from a bad IAC valve to engine mods.
Together we will get your issues pinpointed and fixed!
 Throttle Body and Pedal (DBW Setup ONLY)
So, some 24x engines and ALL 58x engines are drive-by-wire from the factory. Your harness will come
specified for the year and size engine it is for, no exceptions can be made here unless you personally take
the vehicle to a dyno tuner. The computers are very unforgiving in throttle body and pedal changes that
deviates from the factory setup.

I want to run DBC on my 58x engine!

No problem, you will have to purchase a Crank sensor converter so we can adapt a 24x DBC
computer to your engine. 58x computers Will Not run a DBC setup.

Transmission (a-k-a, the tranny)

If you are running an electric transmission your harness will come with the correct plug. If you are running
a standalone transmission, no need to read any further, your all set! The
computer is setup with the gear ratio and tire size you gave us on the order. Simply plug in the appropriate
connections shown below and its time to turn the tires.

ECM, PCM, TCM…… What's the heck is the difference?

The 24x Gen3 PCM (Powertrain Control Module) Controls BOTH the engine AND the tranny.
58x, Gen4 setups have them SEPARATED into the ECM (Engine Control Module) and the TCM
(Transmission Control Module). So, if you have a 58x Engine you will have 2 controllers that are
Matched from us to operate both together. If you are providing your own computer(s) make
sure they (ECM and TCM) are from the same vehicle or you may have issues.

4L60e / 4L80e Computer is SEPARATE from Trans 6L60e / 6L80e Computer is INSIDE Trans

Questions, Comments, Gripes, Moans, or Frustrations……

Please email us, we would love to help out with any questions you have. You can also call us at anytime, we
are here to help and make your LS swap the best investment of your project.

[email protected]

(989) 720-SWAP (989-720-7927)

8am-5pm EST or leave a message
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