Fabrics-store-Sofia - Linen Skirt Pattern-1

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SOFIA SKIRT

WONDERFULLY WRAPPED
Linen becomes fluid with our fit-and-flair maxi skirt.
Easy and comfortable to wear with an adjustable wrap
front and side tie closure.
Misses and Women Sizes Included
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SOFIA PATTERN
Sofia is a long, maxi-length wrap skirt with a full A-line
shape, and “fit and flair” seam shaping.

Sized for ladies 0/2 to 28/30

Simple instructions for the confident beginner sewist.

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LAURA IS WEARING IL020 3.5oz SOFTENED LINEN IN COBALT

Our lovely model Laura is 5’10” and wearing size 4/6 of this pattern with 3 inches
added to the bottom hem length.

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PATTERN DETAILS
SOFIA SKIRT
Sizes: 0/2 to 28/30

• Long maxi length


• Slightly longer back “sweep”
• Full A-line volume at hem
• “Fit and flair” seam shaping
• Adjustable wrap fit with ties
• Semi-fitted at waist and hips
• Slit hole in waistband for tie pass
• Front waist darts

FABRICS & SUPPLIES Fabrics:


- Main fabric: medium/light weight
linen
For a refined look, we chose our 3.5
ounce IL020 with finer, smoother
threads.
- Optional: Interlining for waistband.

SIZING & YARDAGE


Misses/Women's Size Guide Based on Body Measurements in Inches
Size 0/2 4/6 8/10 12/14 16/18 20/22 24/26 28/30
Bust 33-34 35-36 37-38 39-40 42-44 46-48 50-52 54-56
Waist 25-26 27-28 29-30 31-32 34-36 38-40 42-44 46-48
Hip 35-36 37-38 39-40 41-42 44-46 48-50 52-54 56-58

Finished Garment Measurements - Approximate in Inches


Size 0/2 4/6 8/10 12/14 16/18 20/22 24/26 28/30
Waist 25 27 29 31 35 39 43 47
Hips 38 40 42 44 48 52 56 60
Skirt Length 44 44 1/4 44 5/9 44 7/8 45 1/3 45 3/4 46 1/6 46 3/5

Estimated Yardage - 54" Width Linen - Shrinkage Has Been Calculated


Size 0/2 4/6 8/10 12/14 16/18 20/22 24/26 28/30
Main Fabric 4 yards 5 yards

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PATTERN & CUTTING GUIDES
PATTERN PIECE REFERENCE

A: FRONT - CUT 2 IN LINEN “FACE TO FACE”


B: SIDE BACK - CUT 2 IN LINEN “FACE TO FACE”
D
F C: BACK- CUT 2 IN LINEN “FACE TO FACE”
E D: WAISTBAND- CUT 1 IN LINEN “ON FOLD”,
C UT 1 IN INTERLINING “ON FOLD”

C B A E: LONG TIE- CUT 1 IN LINEN


F: SHORT TIE- CUT IN LINEN

CUTTING LAYOUT EXAMPLES


Selvages

A Sizes 0 to 14
Folded Edge

B (example is size 14)


4 yards
C
D
E

F CUT SHORT TIE FROM SECOND LAYER


Selvages

UNFOLD TO CONTINUE
CUTTING TIES AND WAISTBAND. Selvages
Sizes 16 to 30
E (example is size 30)
F A 5 yards
D
Folded Edge

C
Selvages
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SEWING & PREPARATION TIPS:
Sewing with quality linen from Fabrics-Store is very enjoyable! Linen is a stable fabric
that does not easily shift or slip, which is a very helpful characteristic for sewing a neat
and even seam with little effort. You do not need to “push” or “pull” the fabric while
sewing... just simply guide it.

Pre-washing: You will want to prewash and dry your linen fabric in the same manner
you would your finished garment. This will soften your fabric, and eliminate further
shrinkage in your final garment.
If you plan on only dry cleaning your final garment, likewise you will want to dry clean
the fabric before cutting and sewing. Secure the raw edges with a zig-zag or serger
stitch before washing to avoid fraying. You may also sew the two raw edges
together to form a continuous piece to avoid twisting in the wash. Remove fabric
from dryer while it is still slightly moist. Press any deep creases or wrinkles using your
iron’s steam setting with high heat, using a protective press cloth if needed to avoid
scorching.

Fine Seaming: To ensure that your seaming will last as long as your linen garment,
we encourage “single-needle” tailoring and French seaming. Once you think of
French seams as simply sewing the seam twice to encase the raw edges, you will
see that it does not take that much more time than the second step of using a serger.
Setting the stitch length on your sewing machine to 2mm (about 12-14 stitches per
inch) makes for a very durable seam, and is also an attractive indication of fine
tailoring.

Alternate Seaming: If you instead prefer to stitch your seams regularly and serge the
raw edges, simple sew the seams with the full 5/8” allowance. You can then serge the
raw edges, allowing the machine to trim 1/8” off the edges. This will result in seam
allowances finishing at 1/2”.

Pressing: For best results, it is highly recommended that you press your seams as you
finish sewing each of them. Pressing with a steam iron (and press cloth if needed) will
help “set” the stitches into the fabric. You will find it is much easier to press your
seams “as you go” instead of trying to press them all after the garment is finished.

Sewing Glossary: If certain sewing terms and techniques are new to you, please refer
to the sewing glossary at the end of this document.

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SEWING INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Prepare ties: Fold each tie in half length 4. Hem edges of front skirt opening: 3/4”
wise with right sides together. Sew a seam allowances for this edge. Turn
1/2” seam around the long side and under 3/8” and press. Turn under
one short side of each tie. Turn them again another 3/8” and topstitch
inside out, neatly press. 5. Sew on waistband. With right sides
2. Prepare waistband: With right sides together, sew the outside layer of the
together, sew the raw edge of each waistband to the waist of the skirt
appropriate tie into the short edges with 1/2” seam allowance. Be sure
of the waistband with 1/2” seam to check that the left and right ties
allowance. Turn right side out, and are arranged correctly. Clean finish
press a crease into the upper edge of the inside edge by tucking under the
waistband. 1/2” seam allowance and hand sew or
3. Skirt seaming: 5/8” seam allowances. machine topstitch.
Pin all adjoining seams together. The 6. Sew buttonhole slit through the
front remains “open”. If sewing with waistband at the side back as indicated
a French seam remember to start with on the pattern. This will allow the
wrong sides together, stitching a 1/4” under-tie to slip through to the outside
seam for the first pass. Press seam to neatly continue wrapping around
to one side, fold right sides together the waist.
encasing the raw edge. Do the second 7. Hem the bottom. 3/4” seam allowance.
pass of the seam at 3/8”. This is a total Turn under 3/8” and press. Turn under
of 5/8”. You can can also choose to again another 3/8” and topstitch.
do a regular seam of 5/8” with serged
or zig-zagged edges.

F
Short Tie
D BUT
TON
HOLE
E
Long Tie

A A
B B
C C
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Glossary:
Basting Stitch: A temporary hand or Grainline- cross grain: The direction of
machine loose or long stitch to hold a fabric going from selvage edge to selvage
seam in place before sewing the final edge. In woven fabric, these would also be
permanent stitching. known as the weft threads of the weave.

Bias grain: In woven fabrics, this is the Grainline- on grain: The direction of fabric
diagonal direction at 45 degrees to the running parallel to the selvage edge of
grain and crossgrain. There are two bias the cloth. This is also referred to as the
directions in the cloth, perpendicular to “lengthwise grain”. In woven fabric, these
each other. would also be known as the “warp” threads
of the weave.
Buttonhole: A slit in the fabric to fasten
a button. The raw edges of the slit are Notch- outward: Markings on the pattern
finished with a machine or hand sewn zig- that indicate an outward triangular cut
zag stitch. outside the seam allowance. Notch
markings will be arranged to show where
Edge stitch: A row of top stitching very two seam edges join properly together.
close to a seamed edge or folded edge, A single wedge will often indicate a front
usually about 1/16th of an inch. piece, and 2 to 3 wedges together can
indicate back pieces.
Fabric- right side: The side of the fabric
which will be the exposed, outside part of Notch- snip: Markings on the pattern
a garment. that indicate a small “snip” into the
seam allowance. Notch marking will be
Fabric- wrong side: The inside of the fabric arranged to show where two seam edges
which will be the unexposed side or inside join properly together. A single notch will
of a garment. often indicate a front piece, and 2 to 3
notches together can indicate back pieces.
French seam: A seam sewn in two steps to
encase the raw edges of the fabric within Overlock machine: A specialized sewing
itself, giving a clean finish. 1- Wrong sides machine designed to sew and cut along
together, sew 1/4” seam. 2- Turn right the raw edge of a fabric seam with a
sides together, stitch 3/8” seam. Total networked stitch to secure the edges from
5/8” seam allowance. fraying. Also known as a ”serger” machine.

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Glossary (continued):
Press cloth: A piece of cloth used to lay
over a garment to protect it while ironing
from burning or scorching. Usually made
of cotton or linen or wool.

Raw edge: The cut edge of fabric. If not


secured with stitching or a finishing, the
raw edge of a fabric can fray or unravel.

Seam allowance: The distance from the


cut edge of a pattern piece to the sewing
line. Seam allowances can vary, so be sure
to double check the indicated amounts on
your pattern.

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“Sofia” Sewing Pattern (Part 1)

PRINT ONLY THIS PAGE FIRST TO CHECK SCALE


IMPORTANT! PRINT AT ACTUAL SIZE, 100%, OR NO
2 Inch SCALING.

Square to
Formatted for paper sizes A4 and Letter.
Check Print
Simply overlap the page margins and
Accuracy align the markings in each corner to
complete the circle and tape in place.
If desired, trim right & bottom margins.

Layered PDF:
This pattern has embedded
layers so you can print all
sizes or a single size. See
your .pdf viewers 'Layers'
menu.
-1-
-2-
3/4”
HEM A
LLOWA
INCLUD NCES
ED
-3-
-4-
-5-
-6-
-7-
-8-
-9-
-10-
-11-
-12-
“SO
-13-
8/10

12/14
0/2

16/18
4/6

20/22

5/8”
SEAM ALLOWANCES
INCLUDED

OFIA”
-14-
-15-
28/30
24/26
-16-
LINE
GRAIN
“SO F I A ”
C: B A C
CUT 2
K
I N LINEN
“FACE
T O FACE”
SIZE L
INE T
0/2 YPES
4/6
8/10
12/14
16/18
20/22
24/26
28/30
SEAM A
5/8”
W
LLO A
INCLUD NCES
ED
-17-
A: F
CUT
“FACE

SIZE

SIZE

0/2
4/6
8/10
12/14
16/18
20/22
24/26
28/30

-18-
FRONT
2 IN LINEN
E TO FACE”

LINE TYPES

LINE TYPES

-19-
-20-
-21-
-22-
-23-
GRAINLINE

-24-
-25-
-26-
-27-
-28-
-29-
-30-
-31-
-32-
-33-
3/4”
HEM ALLOWANCES
INCLUDED

-34-
-35-
“Sofia” Sewing Pattern (Part 2)

PRINT ONLY THIS PAGE FIRST TO CHECK SCALE


IMPORTANT! PRINT AT ACTUAL SIZE, 100%, OR NO
2 Inch SCALING.

Square to
Formatted for paper sizes A4 and Letter.
Check Print
Simply overlap the page margins and
Accuracy align the markings in each corner to
complete the circle and tape in place.
If desired, trim right & bottom margins.

Layered PDF:
This pattern has embedded
layers so you can print all
sizes or a single size. See
your .pdf viewers 'Layers'
menu.
-1-
1/2”
SEAM ALLOWANCES
FOR TIES
-2-
-3-
-4-
SIZE LINE TYPES
0/2
4/6
8/10 1/2”
SEAM ALLOWANCES
12/14 FOR TIES
16/18
20/22

-5-
24/26
28/30
-6-
“SOFIA”
E: LONG TIE
CUT 1 IN LINEN
“SOFIA”
1/2” D: WAISTBAND
SEAM ALLOWANCES CUT 1 IN LINEN “ON FOLD”
FOR WAISTBAND OPTIONAL, CUT 1 INTERLINING “ON FOLD”

SIDE WAIST
GRAINLINE

-7-
-8-
-9-
“SOFIA”
F: SHORT TIE

-10-
CUT 1 IN LINEN
GRAINLINE

-11-
SIZE LINE TYPES

12/14

28/30
20/22
16/18

24/26
8/10
0/2
4/6

CENTER BACK ON FOLD

CENTER BACK ON FOLD

CENTER BACK ON FOLD

CENTER BACK ON FOLD

CENTER BACK ON FOLD

CENTER BACK ON FOLD

CENTER BACK ON FOLD

CENTER BACK ON FOLD

-12-
“SOFIA”
B: SIDE BACK
CUT 2 IN LINEN
“FACE TO FACE”

SIZE LINE TYPES


0/2
4/6
8/10
12/14
16/18
20/22
24/26
28/30

5/8”
SEAM ALLOWANCES
INCLUDED

-13-
-14-
-15-
GRAINLINE
-16-
-17-
GRAINLINE

-18-
-19-
-20-
-21-
SIZE LINE TYPES
0/2
4/6
8/10
12/14
16/18
20/22
24/26
28/30
-22-
-23-
-24-
-25-
-26-
3/4”
HEM ALLOWANCES
INCLUDED

-27-
-28-
-29-
-30-
Thank you
We work hard on making our patterns beautiful enough to
meet your standards.

If you feel like sharing praise or helpful criticism, please


send us your comments to [email protected].

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