Redfish Magazine 2011 December Eu

Redfish Issue #6, December 2011
Central
the beautiful American cichlids
Klunzinger’s
A quick guide to the major groups! Wrasse
Tropical Marine Reef
Grow the Red Tiger Lotus! Family Serranidae explored. Vanuatu’s amazing reef!
100
80
Light insensity (%)

60
40
20
0
0:00 4:00 8:00 12:00 16:00 20:00 0:00
Time
PAR Readings
Surface 855
20cm 405
40cm 185
60cm 110
0 200 400 600 800 1000
Model Number Dimensions Power

Radiance 60 68x22x5.5cm 90W
11000K (white only) Total Output

1.0 1.0
Relative Spectral
0.8 0.8
Distribution
0.6 0.6
0.4 0.4
0.2 0.2
0.0 0.0
400 500 600 700 400 500 600 700
Wavelength
Marine
Coral Reef
Redfish contents redfishmagazine.com.au
4 About
5 News
Redfish is:
7 Off the shelf Jessica Drake, Nicole Sawyer,
Julian Corlet & David Midgley
13 Where land and water meet: Ripariums Email: [email protected]
Web: redfishmagazine.com.au
15 Competitions Facebook: facebook.com/redfishmagazine
Twitter: @redfishmagazine
16 Red Lotus Redfish Publishing. Pty Ltd.

PO Box 109 Berowra Heights,
17 Today in the Fishroom NSW, Australia, 2082.
ACN: 151 463 759
23 Klunzinger’s Wrasse This month’s Eye Candy Contents Page Photos courtesy:
(Top row. Left to Right)

26 Not just Groupers: Serranidae ‘Gurnard on the Wing - Coió’ by Lazlo Ilyes
‘shachihoko’ by Emre Ayaroglu
‘Starfish, Waterlemon Cay, St. John, USVI’ by Brad Spry
31 Snorkel Vanuatu ‘Water Ballet’ by Martina Rathgens
‘Strange Creatures’ by Steve Jurvetson
40 Illumination: Guide to lighting (Part II) (Bottom row. Left to Right)

‘Tide Pooling’ by Steve Jurvetson
‘Great Barrier Reef 005’ by Steve Evans
‘Starfish shrimp on a cushion sea star’ by Tanaka Juuyoh
‘Red Sea Anemonefish in Red Bubble Anemone’ by Silke Baron
‘Friends’ by Sharon Silverbush
The Fine Print
Redfish Magazine
General Advice Warning

The advice contained in this publication is
general in nature and has been prepared
without understanding your personal situ-
ation, experience, setup, livestock and/or
environmental conditions.
This general advice is not a substitute for,

or equivalent of, advice from a professional
aquarist, aquarium retailer or veterinarian.
Distribution
We encourage you to share our website
address online, or with friends. Issues of
Redfish Magazine, however, may only be
distributed via download at our website:
redfishmagazine.com.au
About Redfish Opinions & Views

Opinions and views contained herein are
those of the authors of individual ar ticles
and are not necessarily those
Redfish is a free-to-read magazine of Redfish Publishing.
for fishkeeping enthusiasts.
Ownership and copyright
Redfish Magazine is © 2011
At Redfish we believe in the free exchange of information to
Redfish Publishing. Pty Ltd.
facilitate success by aquarium and pond hobbyists. Each month PO Box 109 Berowra Heights,
Redfish Magazine will bring you dedicated sections on tropical, NSW, Australia, 2082.
coldwater, marine and ponds. ACN: 151 463 759
Redfish was founded in early 2011 by Jessica Drake,

Nicole Sawyer, Julian Corlet and David Midgley.
We hope you enjoy this, the sixth issue of Redfish.
古池や蛙飛込む水の音
ふるいけやかわずとびこむみずのおと
Photo courtesy: (matt)

About « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 4
Conservation News
Saving Nemo:
charisma is not enough
Gland, Switzerland, 13 December, 2011 (IUCN)
If conservation action is not taken, there may
come a time when no one will be able to find
Nemo. One in every six species related to char-
acters in the movie Finding Nemo is threatened
by extinction, according to a new study by IUCN
(International Union for Conservation of Nature)
and Simon Fraser University.
A team of marine scientists have analyzed the

extinction risk and reviewed successful conser- Ocellaris Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris)
vation programmes for Nemo, the charismatic Photo by Natascia Tamburello
clownfish, as well as more than 1,500 other spe-
cies related to characters in the 2003 Disney/
Pixar animated movie, Finding Nemo.
The study revealed that widely distributed ani-

mals like turtles and sharks are at most risk, and
hunting and fishing poses the greatest threat to
species’ survival.
“Putting Nemo in office aquariums, making soup

out of Anchor the shark’s fins and selling Shel-
don the seahorse as curios has taken a toll,” says
Loren McClenachan, the study’s lead author and
NSF International Postdoctoral Fellow at Simon
Green turtle (Chelonia mydas)
Fraser University. “Our research highlights how
Photo by Ryan Cloutier
very little we know about many of these animals.
It’s unthinkable that the characters in Finding
Nemo could become extinct, but this is the real-
ity unless we pay more attention to the diversity
of marine life.”
All species of marine turtles (“Squirt” and

“Crush”) and more than half of all hammerhead
sharks (“Anchor”), mackerel sharks (“Bruce” and
“Chum”), and eagle rays (“Mr. Ray”) are threat-
ened. Seahorses (“Sheldon”) are the most threat-
ened group of bony fish in Finding Nemo, with
two in five species at risk of extinction. Despite a
demonstrated need for conservation action, reg-
ulation of trade in endangered marine species is
severely deficient for those with high economic Scalloped Hammerhead (Sphyrna lewini)
Photo by Terry Goss, 2008 Marine Photobank
value, like sharks.
“Our study found that threatened sharks and
News « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 5

rays lacked needed protection against interna-
tional trade, compared to all other groups. Fewer
than one in ten species of threatened sharks and
rays considered in the study were protected by
the CITES (Convention on International Trade
of Endangered Species),” says co-author Nicho-
las Dulvy, co-chair of the IUCN Shark Specialist
Group and Associate Professor of Biology at Si-
mon Fraser University. “For sharks and rays this
is particularly concerning, as these species are
highly vulnerable to overexploitation.”
Conservation relies on strong, well-founded

science, but knowledge shortfalls exist for the
majority of marine species. Small species and an Eagle Ray. Photo by Renata
Ferrari Legorreta. Marine Photobank
invertebrates, such as Pacific Cleaner Shrimp
(Lysmata amboinensis) (like “Jaques”); suffer
the most. This lack of data raises the concern
that small species could face local and regional
extinction without the conservation community
being aware.
While the research shows a stark shortfall in

ocean management and marine conservation,
there is still hope. For example, protecting turtles
against entanglement in commercial fishing gear
and from hunting has helped reverse trends in
some locations. “We have the tools to save ma-
rine species, particularly through international
treaties such as CITES,” says co-author Kent Car-
penter, Professor at Old Dominion University and White shark (Carcharodon carcharias)
Manager of the IUCN Marine Biodiversity Unit Photo by Terry Goss
“Implementation of coordinated international
conservation initiatives are necessary as cha-
risma alone is not enough to ensure a species’
survival.”
About IUCN
IUCN, International Union for Conservation of Nature,
helps the world find pragmatic solutions to our most
pressing environment and development challenges.
IUCN works on biodiversity, climate change, energy,

human livelihoods and greening the world economy by
supporting scientific research, managing field projects
all over the world, and bringing governments, NGOs, the
UN and companies together to develop policy, laws and
best practice.
IUCN is the world’s oldest and largest global environ- Three-spotted Seahorse (Hippocampus tri-
mental organization, with more than 1,200 government maculatus). Photo by A Bijukumar
and NGO members and almost 11,000 volunteer experts Marine Photobank
in some 160 countries. IUCN’s work is supported by over
1,000 staff in 45 offices and hundreds of partners in
public, NGO and private sectors around the world.
www.iucn.org
News « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 6

Off the Shelf
Aqua One Powder
Water Treatments
Aqua One’s Powder Water Treatment range is just what the doctor ordered for your aquarium!
With the new extensive water treatment range providing all the necessities to keep your aquarium
at optimum peak, finding what you need to keep your occupants happy is now simpler than ever!
The Range consists of:
• Chlorine Neutraliser
• Ammonia Neutraliser
• Goldfish pH & Alkalinity Buffer
• Tropical pH & Alkalinity Buffer
• American Cichlid pH & Alkalinity Buffer
• African Cichlid pH & Alkalinity Buffer
• Tanganyika pH & Alkalinity Buffer
• Marine pH & Alkalinity Buffer
• Calcium Supplement
• Magnesium Supplement
• Rift Lake Salt
Aqua One products are widely available at most quality pet retailers.
To find your nearest retailer, visit www.aquaone.com.au
Aqua One Moray

Internal Filter
The Aqua One Moray Internal Filter is a
high quality filter with the flexibility of a
canister filter in a compact design.
Biological, mechanical and chemical filter

media are supplied in interchangeable car-
tridges giving flexibility to the user. With
corner or flat glass mounting options avail-
able, it makes the Aqua One Moray Internal
Filter highly adaptable to any aquarium.
Aqua One products are widely available

at most quality pet retailers. To find your
nearest retailer, visit www.aquaone.com.au
Off the shelf « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 7

Off the Shelf
PSE1 Hang-On Protein Skimmer
with UV + Power Filter
AQUATOP’s PSE-1 Protein Skimmer Elite is a hybrid

power filter equipped with an effective Protein Skim-
mer, a 7-watt UV Sterilizer and a third compartment
dedicated to the filtration media of your choice, ef-
fectively giving you three products in one convenient
design.
The 7-watt UV Sterilizer helps to prevent unwanted al-

gae blooms and aids in the eradication of free-floating
parasites. Capable of filtering 200 gallons per hour, the
PSE1 Protein Skimmer performs foam fractionation, a
process that removes harmful organic waste from your
aquarium water before the waste enters the nitrogen
cycle. Combined with the UV sterilizer and a dedicated
filtration media compartment, the PSE-1 provides all
the filtration needed for saltwater aquariums up to 60
gallons. www.aquatop.com
Off the shelf « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 8

By Jacob and Ronald Jung, Photos by Devin Biggs
When one thinks of a lake, river or stream, often the last The rafts are made of buoyant, closed cell foam and make
thing that comes to mind is the water. We tend to, however, up the foreground of the riparium display. The surface of the
remember the shorelines that border these bodies of water. foam that makes up the rafts is honey combed with holes.
These shorelines are very diverse and filled with a large These holes go all the way through the raft, and are used to
number of interesting plant specimens. They are so inter- hold the stems of the riparium plants. As the riparium plants
esting, that aquarists have created a new type of planted on the rafts grow, their root systems develop under water
aquarium which attempts to emulate these shorelines. The on the underside of the raft, while the plant’s foliage grows
name given to these shoreline setups is riparium. out on the top.
Ripariums emulate shorelines by utilizing the plants found

along bodies of water. Each plant is individually planted in
specially designed planters or rafts, which are placed slightly
under the water line and on the back and sides of an aquar-
ium. As the plants grow, not only do they add a fascinating
beauty to the display, but they also absorb nutrients from
the water column of the aquarium. This feature dramatically
increases the water quality of the aquarium, making ripari-
ums a great home for fish.
Planted ripariums should not be confused with paludarium

or vivarium type setups, as they are quite different. Paludari-
ums and vivariums utilize immobile land areas, and tend to
be more like terrariums (land only setups) with large water
features. The planters and rafts that make up a riparium on
the other hand, are very mobile and are not real land mass- the roots of this Anubias species grow readily
es. Ripariums can be viewed as a hybrid type of aquarium. down into the aquarium water.
The Planters and Rafts To create more depth in a riparium display, many planters
The riparium planters form the base of all riparium display
and rafts are equipped with various mechanical features
tanks. The planters are designed in an unobtrusive cup-like
which enable them to attach to each other. Not only does
shape which allows them to hold both a planting substrate
this add depth to the display, but it also lets one put more
and the roots of a riparium plant. Each planter is designed
plants into a smaller space.
to allow water from the aquarium to enter into the planter,
usually through small holes. The aquarium water is absorbed
Riparium planters and rafts are available from online retail-
by the riparium plant as its vital source of water and nutri-
ers such as Riparium Supply (www.ripariumsupply.com),
ents. To attach the planters to the glass of the display tank,
though several hobbyists have been able to create “DIY”
planters are equipped with either suction cups or sandwich
versions.
magnets. These attachment accessories keep the planter
in place, but also make it possible to easily rearrange the
riparium display. The Riparium Styles
Now that you know the ins and outs of the planters and
rafts, I will begin to cover the three main styles or types of
planted ripariums. A key feature of setting up a planted
riparium is deciding on what style the new composition will
attempt to emulate. Many of the decisions concerning equip-
ment, flora and fauna are affected by what style is chosen.
These styles vary mainly when it comes to water level and
humidity, which play a major role in what plants are suitable
for a display.
The first style is perfect for aquarists that enjoy collect-

ing plants. The water level in this style is about 1/3rd of the
fish tank’s total volume. Humidity is very high, which can be
achieved by the use of a hood or glass lid over the tank. The
high humidity levels in this type of riparium make it perfect
for growing emersed aquatic plants. This style has a boxed
feel, as the plants stay within the aquarium.
The second approach also has a low water level (again,
Freshwater « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 11

about 1/3rd of the tank’s total volume). Humidity, however,
is on the lower side, as a hood or lid is not used. This setup
tends to not use emersed aquatic plants (as most need
lots of humidity to survive), but does use some of the larger
riparium plant specimens. The use of pendant light fixtures
and rimless aquariums are highly recommended for this type
of composition.
The final design, unlike the other two, has a high water level
of about 80-100% of the tank’s total volume. Humidity is low,
and the use of pendant or hanging light fixtures is a neces-
sity. The larger amount of water kept in the riparium makes
this style perfect for showcasing fish.
Riparium Equipment
The equipment (other than the planters and rafts) used to
keep a planted riparium functioning slightly differs from the
equipment used in traditional planted aquariums.
Proper filtration in the planted riparium is best achieved if a

canister or in-tank filter is used. Canister filters are the best
option in my opinion as they can properly filter high volumes
of water and can be used in ripariums with lower water lev-
els. In-tank filters also work in low water ripariums, but take
up much more space in the tank and aren’t as powerful.
Practically any light fixture used for planted aquariums can
be used over a planted riparium. Most riparium hobbyists riparium hanging planter and trellis raft with
tend to stick with LED, T5 high output and metal halide fix- Iguanura tenuis palm and Pilea grandifolia
tures, however, as these seem to be the most powerful and

our atmosphere, which is rich in CO2.
Obtaining the majority of riparium plants is not difficult. A

large number of them are very popular in the house plant
and pond industries so purchasing a new riparium plant
can be as simple as going to your local nursery, or clicking a
button on your favorite pond plant seller’s website. Spath-
iphyllum (Peace lilies), Dieffenbachia (Dumb canes), various
Pilea, Acorus (Sweet flags), Cyperus (Umbrella sedges),
Chamaedorea elegans (Parlor Palm), Lysimachia nummularia
(Creeping Jenny) and Pogonatherum crinitum (Baby panda
bamboo) are few examples of common riparium plants
which are also popular in the houseplant and pond hobbies.
For a high humidity riparium, emersed aquatic plants are

another option. Cryptcorynes, Echinodorus swords, Microso-
trellis raft with a Pilea grandifolia plant rum pteropus (Java ferns), Anubias, Limnophilia, Alter-
nathera, Bacopa and many others make amazing riparium
are easy to hang. plants. Such specimens can be found at local fish stores,
fellow hobbyists or online dealers. Keep in mind that it takes
I have also found that many T5 high output light fixtures some time for aquatic plants to change to their emersed
made for hydroponic setups are perfect for planted ripari- form.
ums. Hydroponic T5 light fixtures tend to be very easy to
hang, and the price is often fair. If you have a local hydro-
ponics store, or know of a good online retailer check them Why Planted Ripariums?
out when shopping around. Now that you know a bit about planted ripariums, why set
one up? What are the advantages to using the riparium
An aspect of lighting the planted riparium that
is often overlooked is the shade given off by the
planters and rafts. If you plan on growing any
aquatic plants in the display, take that into ac-
count when purchasing your light fixture.
As with any par t of an aquarium, be sure to do
your research! Make sure that the equipment will
work with your setup.
Riparium Plants
and How to Care for Them
The plants native to most shorelines are very
specialized, as they have adapted to surviving
without oxygen around their root systems. These
adaptations occur due to the lack of oxygen in
the soil in which they are rooted. The lack of
oxygen is caused by excessive amounts of water,
which saturates the soil removing any air. The
vast majority of plants require oxygen around
their root systems. If the oxygen depletes, the
cells that form the roots die out, killing the plant.
Without these specializations, the areas around
rivers and lakes would be wastelands and erosion
would greatly increase.
The conditions in a riparium provide all the vital

requirements for plants to grow and prosper: wa-
ter, energy and nutrients. The plants absorb wa-
ter from the aquarium itself, they receive energy
via the lighting over the riparium, and they receive
micro and macro nutrients from the aquarium’s
water column, along with carbon dioxide from

planting system? For one, the roots of the riparium plants the water of your aquarium a little closer to shore.
provide plenty of protective cover for shy fish and fry. This
makes them great for breeding aquariums. Recommended reading
This ar ticle covered some of the very raw basics of the
The riparium plants also greatly increase the aquarium’s planted riparium hobby. If it interests you, I highly recom-
water quality. As they grow, plants absorb nitrogenous mend you research this topic more. A few online sites that
wastes from the water column of the aquarium. This aspect have great riparium related content include: The Jake-arium
makes planted ripariums very fish friendly. If you are a plant (www.thejakearium.com), Hydrophyte’s Blog (www.hydro-
collector, ripariums cater to you too: Many riparium plants phytesblog.com) and Aquatic Plant Enthusiasts aquarium
are interesting on both biological and aesthetic levels and forum (www.aquaticplantenthusiastsforum.com). A simple
with the many untried specimens out there, you are sure to Google search will also yield many great websites.
stay interested for a long time.
The final and very impor tant reason, however, is the beauty
of the displays. With pleasing colors and textures, the
riparium plants add a new and beautiful emersed dimension
to the normal planted aquarium.
Conclusion
Although relatively new, planted ripariums have been
increasing in popularity by leaps and bounds- and it is no
wonder why! Their beauty, advantages and ease of care
make them perfect for any hobbyist, from the exper t to the
newbie. Ripariums give the hobbyist the ability to not only
replicate the rarely seen depths of creeks and lakes, but also
the beautiful and intriguing shoreline where land and water
meet. I urge you to give planted ripariums a try, and bring
Redfish Magazine
PhotoContest 2011
Need Inspiration?
Here are some amazing
aquatic images from flickr!
Redfish Magazine Photo Contest. Oct 2011 - Dec 2011
Redfish Magazine is pleased to announce the second of its quarterly Aquarium

Photo Contests for 2011-2012. Each month we’ll publish our favourite reader
submitted photos, and in January 2012, we’ll announce the winners for this
round.
“Diver Silhouette” by Tim Sheerman-Chase
The theme this quarter is:

“My fish and I”
This quarter we are pleased to be able to offer
Julian Sprung’s excellent book: Corals: A Quick
Reference Guide as a prize!
Codeword: MANAGUENSE “Starfish” by Clinton & Charles Robertson
Entering the photo contest

Entering the photo contest is simple.
Email your name, the codeword, postal address and a high res. version
of your photo to [email protected].
Please check the rules and regulations prior to entry.

“Waiting for Separation” by Hamid Najafi. “pictures at the aquarium”
by Luis Argerich
Rules and Regulations

Photo must be your own work. Post processing of your own images is
allowed. You must be over 18 years of age to enter the competition.
Detailed rules and regulations are available at:

www.redfishmagazine.com.au/competitions/2011_photo_comp_1
“Untitled” by D. Sharon Pruitt.
“koi”
by Sabotrax
Competitions « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 15
R Red Lotus is a bit of a misnomer. It’s not really
red, frequently at least, nor is a lotus of any
kind. From a botany perspective, Lotuses are
either a small perrenial plant, with hooked,
beak-like flowers from the pea family or they
E
are water plants from the genus Nelumbo
(the one with the edible roots and seeds). Red
Lotus, though, isnt either of these. What it is,
however, is a water lily. Like all of its more
recognisable cousins, Red Lotus produces
large circular leaves that float on the waters
surface. This behaviour isn’t desirable in the
D
aquarium and it is the submerged foliage
that’s of interest to most aquarists.
First, some basics. Red Lotus is native to tropi-

cal Africa, where like all water lilies it occurs
in slow-moving water. In the aquarium, bright
lighting is essential to keep it submerged and
stop it producing those surface leaves. In all
liklihood it may still produce some stems which
head to the surface, though these should be
removed by the aquarist. Plants can’t learn, in
the sense you or I can, but I get the feeling the
specimens of Red Lotus get the message after
L
I chop off any stems heading to the surface,
and begin to desist from doing so.
Neutral water (pH 6.0-7.3) is ideal for the

species and high output T5 (or equivalent LED
lighting) should be considered essential to
O
grow this plant. Further, regular fertilisation
including the use of CO2 should be considered
routine for this species. Perhaps most impor-
tantly, this plant requires a rich substrate to
succeed. This need not be the substrate of the
aquarium, pots of substrate - well concealed
- are also acceptable. Indeed, it’s been sug-
T
gested by some that a pot may help restrain
some of the vigour of the species.
In terms of propagation, plantlets are some-

times formed on the leaves or via runners.
Flowers, which are produced on the surface
U
can be pollinated and seed collected, though in
truth this works better in ponds than aquari-
ums.
The green and tricolour forms have much the

same requirements. If anything, in my experi-
ence anyway, the green form requires even
S
more light. If you’re looking for an astound-
ing centrepiece for your aquarium, look no
further, while not red or a lotus - this water
lily is amazing!
Tropical Freshwater « Redfish Magazine 2011:1

2011:6 » 11
16
Today In The Fishroom with Mo Devlin
With their long,

Better photographs
spectacularly of your Bettas
coloured fins, there’s
not a more photogenic
subjects than
Betta splendens
Text and photos by Mo Devlin

A good friend of mine keeps telling me that I It’s the highest compliment and always makes me
should be a more active “blogger”. Like most, feel good about my contribution to the hobby.
I manage to juggle a job, family life and still find
precious little time to, as my father always told
me, “invest in the things that make me happy”. If How is it done?
you would have asked me twenty years ago, I One of the questions I am most often asked is
would have said it was my fish collection. how I manage to capture the color and clarity in
my photographs. The simple answer is always
I’m for tunate that I have two real passions in the same…light. It all comes down to how much
life: my fish and my photography. As luck would light and how it is directed on a subject. Ninety-
have it, they have dovetailed nicely over the nine percent of all of the photographs I take are
years. If asked today, I would have to say that done using at least two or more often up to four
it’s actually more taking photos of my fish and flash units. Available light just isn’t an option.
not simply just keeping the fish.
All of my equipment, from flash to camera and
I remind my friend that I’ve been “blogging” for lens are Nikon products. The flash, a Nikon SB-
the better par t of twenty years. I do it on vari- 900, when mounted on a camera can illuminate a
ous forums across the globe under the heading, subject up to twenty or more feet away. When
“Today in the Fishroom”. True…most of it is you train four of them onto an area of the fish
photos with captions or shor t paragraphs, but tank that might be one or two foot square, it’s
I have found that I can convey my “message” easy to imagine the amount of light cast on the
better more so through photos. Over the years “sweet spot”. This set up allows me to shoot at
I have received hundreds of emails telling me that a very low ISO (100) and a very high aper ture
someone has added a specific fish to their collec- (f22 – f32) all while utilizing a high shutter speed
tion after seeing it featured in one of my “blogs”. (1/250th or more).
Blog « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 18

Bigger Isn’t Always Better to react. Once they were face to face with their
neighbor, they reacted on cue displaying their fins
I happen to really like the tank buster cichlids.
And most of my photos are of my extensive col- and posturing for the other fish. It was a perfect
lection of Central and South American cichlids. photo oppor tunity.
As you can imagine, big fish require big tanks.
And while my preferred setup still allows me to A good photo is always more than a proper
get enough light, it can still sometimes be a chal- exposure. If you can get the fish to pose, it can
lenge adjusting the output of the individual flash make a big difference. With large cichlids it’s a
units. matter of a bit of luck combined with timing and
dash of knowing how the fish will respond to the
On occasion I will “take my act on the road” and camera. With Betta fish it was much simpler.
take photos at a local fish show. A few weeks
back I had the oppor tunity to speak at the
Nor th Jersey Aquarium Society in Lyndhurst New
A Controlled Environment
My good friend Rose Orso, owner of and one of
Jersey. Their local show had an impressive display
the country’s largest impor ters of fish, pulled me
of entrants...including quite of few of the Betta
aside and asked if I wouldn’t mind taking home a
species.
very unique Betta fish to photograph. In the bag
the fish looked like it was a very light shade of
All of the Betta were arranged in small contain-
pink with a grey body. I had never seen one like
ers, each about 25cm high and 12 cm wide and
that and gladly accepted, taking two additional
square. Each Betta was shielded from the next
fish as well.
fish with a small white card. I tried my standard
setup, with a single diffused light placed on top
In the past I have prepared fish tanks with the
of the container…and got some very nice results
sole purpose of creating a photo tank. You
using a powerful flash on a very small container.
can see a video on how this was done on the
The beautiful par t of this was all that I had to do
Aquamojo You Tube page at: http://www.you-
was temporarily remove the card to get the fish
tube.com/user/Aquamojo. I decided to do the

same for this shoot, only on a much smaller scale. at the same time. The smaller labarynth fish like
I purchased a small plastic container about the the Betta are a pleasant change and are much
same size as the one at the show and painted the easier to photograph.
back in black.
One of the things that is strikingly obvious is the
I suspended a piece of egg crate across two cin- the color. All three fish were more vibrant no
der blocks and placed the container in the middle. doubt due to the extreme amount of light shone
Then with a diffused light above, one below and on such a small area. The other observation was
one to the side, I took my shots. One thing was quite simply, what a beautiful fish over all. The
missing, and that was the predictable interac- natural grace and beauty as they unfurl those big
tion that made the fish react and pose. Problem beautiful fins make them a photogrpahers dream.
solved, I cut a hole in the egg crate and placed a
small hand mirror alongside. The fish’s reflection Overall the “experiment” with photographing this
was enough to get them excited. type of fish was a big success and I am looking
forward to doing more. In the meantime, I hope
The Fish Models you enjoy the photos.
I will admit to having a limited knowledge on the
Betta fish. I’ve been intrigued with many of the If you have any specific questions about the setup
Labarynth type fish, keeping Snakeheads (Chan- or just aquatic photography in general, drop me
na micropeltes) and forms of Gourami including an e-mail and I would be delighted to address
five of the Giant family (Osphronemus goramy) them either directly or through a similar ar ticle.
Mo Devlin is the owner of Aquamojo.Com. He maintains three thousand gallons of fresh water tanks. Over his
thir ty years in the hobby he has successfully bred many of the Central and South American cichlid fishes.
His passion for New World cichlids is only rivaled by his love of photography. Over the years, he has posted
images of his collection frequently in his “Today in the Fishroom” series on line across many national and interna-
tional fish forums. Mo has spent two terms on the board of trustees for the American Cichlid Assn, was chairman
of the organization in 2010, and has been the Publicity chairman for the past decade.
photo by Khantipol
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Klunzinger’s magnificient wrasse
It’s hot and dry in the desert port that is Al-Qusair on the shores of the Red Sea in Egypt. Date
palms line the small alleyways of the town, through which a German-born physician named Klun-
zinger walks his rounds. Bizarrely, almost 140 years later few will remember the Doctor who
treated the residents of Al-Qusair, instead he’s remembered for his work on the animals of the
Red Sea. Imortalised by taxonomy, his name is carryed by numerous fish and insects of the region,
named in honour of his work.
Surely amongst the praying mantises and

ponyfish to bear his name, it’s rather striking
that the fish most often associated with Carl
Benjamin Klunzinger, isn’t named after him
at all - but rather, was named by him - and
thus bears the common name ‘Klunzinger’s
Wrasse’. In 1871, Klunzinger described Thala-
ssoma rueppellii, naming the fish for Eduard
Rüppell, a German explorer and naturalist
whose work preceeded Klunzingers taxonomy
of fishes and marine animals of the region.
Klunzinger’s wrasse is sparingly available in

the fishkeeping hobby, having a distribution
that’s limited primarily to the Red Sea. The the port city of Al-Qusair
Tropical
Readers
Freshwater
Tanks««Redfish
RedfishMagazine
Magazine2011:1
2011:2»»11
9
fish has a striking colouration that is common to juveniles and adults, though some males bear
darker edges to their fins. Like all Thalassoma wrasses, Klunzinger’s Wrasse is a torpedo shaped
fish, who use their sleek shape to swim rapidly when required.
a large group of Klunzinger’s Wrasses swim over a coral outcropping.
In the wild, the species occurs at shallow depths down to 30 metres (100’). In these habitats, the
species is found on reef edges, and drop offs into the open sea. Typically, individuals are found in
small groups, these groups are mainly females and one dominant male. Sometimes smaller individu-
als, juveniles join these groups. Being a social fish that can individually reach 20 cm (8”) in length,
housing such a group requires a very large aquarium. Volumes from 300-500 litres upward should
be considered a minimum to house this species sucessfully in the long-term, though experts may
manage in smaller volumes.
As per other Thalassoma, Klunzinger’s wrasse can be boisterous, particularly when housed in
aquariums that are too small. Conspecifics such as tangs are ideal, as they are also large and fast
moving. Slow-moving or small-sized species should be added only on the provision of good advice
from your aquarium or expert aquarists. The species should be added early to the aquarium and h
provided with numerous solid, stable sheltering places in which it can sleep. When startled the spe-
cies can sometimes bury itself in the sand, so be sure to seat heavy items on the aquarium base
where they cannot be undermined. Feeding is straightforward and the species is an unfussy feeder.
Breeding is not currently being undertaken on this species, and all individuals available in the
aquarium trade are sourced from the Red Sea. Despite this the IUCN ranks Klunzinger’s Wrasse,
thankfully, as Least Concern, most notably due to the protection of parts of the Red Sea from
collection. As with all marine species, breeding in captivity for the aquarium industry should be a
medium-term goal. Hobbyists interested in breeding tropical marine species are directed to www.
marinebreeder.org for more information.
Like many large wrasses, Klunzinger’s Wrasse ships poorly, so care should be taken to ensure you
get healthy stock that has not been mishandled. Insist upon good and ethical handling at your local
aquarium, as such precautions are good for the aquarist and good for the fish being shipped.
If you’ve got the space to house a Klunzinger’s Wrasse, you wont be disappointed - they are ma-
jestic animals of great appeal - however, be sure you can meet their needs before you purchase!
Marine « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 24

Community Directory
International
Advanced Aquarist http://www.advancedaquarist.com
Britain
Anglia Reef Club http://www.angliareefclub.org.uk/
Bracknell Aquarist Society http://bracknellaquarist.wordpress.com/
Bristol Aquarists Society http://www.bristol-aquarists.org.uk/
Bristol Tropical Fish Club http://www.bristoltropicalfishclub.org.uk/
British Cichlid Association http://www.britishcichlid.org.uk/
British Killifish Association http://www.bka.org.uk/
British Koi Keeeper’s Society (BKKS)
See website for UK sections http://www.bkks.co.uk/
Catfish Study Group http://www.catfishstudygroup.org/
Dunstable & District Aquarist Society http://www.ddas.co.uk/
Federation of Nor thern Aquarium Societies (FNAS)
See website for list of associated clubs http://www.fnas.org.uk/
Greater Manchester Cichlid Society http://www.nekrosoft.co.uk/gmcs/
Hounslow & District Aquarists Society http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/hounslowfish/
Ilford &District Aquarists & Pondkeepers Society http://www.ilfordaquarists.co.uk/
Preston and District Aquatic Society http://www.nor thtrop.co.uk/preston.html
Reigate and Redhill Aquarist Society http://www.networkclub.co.uk/rras/
Ryedale Aquarist Society http://www.ryedaleaquaristsociety.co.uk/
Southend Leigh and District Aquarist Society http://www.southendaquarist.co.uk/
Strood and District Aquarist Society http://www.stroodaquarist.co.uk/
Scotland
Federation of Scottish Aquarist Societies.
See website for list of associated clubs http://www.scottishaquarist.co.uk/scottish_aquarium_society.htm
Aberdeen Fish Keeper’s Club http://sites.google.com/site/aberdeenfishkeepersclub/
Greenock & District Aquarist Society http://www.scottishaquarist.co.uk/greenock&district_as.htm
Fair City Aquarist Society http://www.faircityaquaristsociety.co.uk/
Union of Scottish Aquarists http://www.fishwebusa.co.uk/
Capital Aquarist Society, Edinbourgh http://www.scottishaquarist.co.uk/capital_aquarists_society.htm
Dundee & District Aquarist Society http://www.scottishaquarist.co.uk/dundee&district_aquarist_society.htm
Glenrothes Aquarist Society http://www.scottishaquarist.co.uk/glenrothes_aquarist_society.htm
Grangemouth Aquarist Society http://www.scottishaquarist.co.uk/grangemouth_aquarist_society.htm
Lanarkshire Aquarist Society http://www.scottishaquarist.co.uk/lanarkshire_aquarist_society.htm
Musselburgh & District Aquarist Society http://www.scottishaquarist.co.uk/musselburgh_a_s.htm
Per th Aquarist Society http://www.scottishaquarist.co.uk/per th_aquarist_society.htm
Poecilia Aquarist Society http://www.scottishaquarist.co.uk/poecilia_scotia.htm
Workington & District Aquarist Society http://www.scottishaquarist.co.uk/workington_as.htm
Wales
Newpor t & District Aquarist Society http://kimnp19.tripod.com/
Ireland
Irish Midlands Aquatic Society http://midlandsaquatic.weebly.com/index.html
Be par t of our community!

Our current listing is primarily from Britain, if you’re par t of
a fishkeeping club or society on the Continent we’d love to
add you to our list!
Email us at [email protected]
to get listed here.
Photo by Hobvias Sudoneighm
Community « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 25

MORE THAN JUST GROUPERS
by aaron sewell
The family Serranidae is made up of 5 subfamilies colours, especially reds, purples and oranges. The
that on the surface appear to be vastly different. reason for this is that in shallow water, the colours
From the small shoaling anthias to some of the larg- are bright and allows fish to display during breed-
est bony fish found on coral reefs such as the giant ing season, at the same time, due to the poor pen-
Queensland grouper, huge contrasts appear within etration of red light through water, at depth these
this group of fish. This ar ticle will discuss the various colours appear dark and dull allowing these brightly
members of the family, focusing on those that are coloured fish to hide with relative ease. This is espe-
suited to home aquaria. cially prominent in the Epinephelin genera Cephalop-
holis, Variola and Plectropomus.
Despite the obviously large difference between cer-
tain members of the family, to be defined within the
same family, there are clearly some characteristics Anthiinae
that are shared amongst the different subfamilies. The name Anthias was originally used to describe a
Serranids are carnivores, whether their prey be small species of fish discovered in the Atlantic ocean (An-
planktonic crustaceans or relatively large fish. thias anthias) and is a latin word that means sea fish.
Ironically, members of the genus Anthias are almost
Taxonomically, Serranids are defined physically by the non-existant in the aquarium trade (though they
presence of 3 spines on the operculum, a main spine are only found in the Atlantic Ocean and cannot be
that appears as a V shape at the back of the oper- legally impor ted into Australia anyway).
culum with a smaller spine both above and below
the main spine. Also, the presence of 3 spines on the Anthias are the most commonly kept members of
anal fin as well as a complete and continuous lateral the Serranid family, largely due to the fact that most
line that does not reach the anal fin. remain small enough that they are comfor tably kept
in an average home aquarium. Ironically, they are
It is not uncommon for Serranids to have vibrant probably the most difficult members of the family
Reefkeeping
Marine «
« Redfish
Redfish Magazine
Magazine 2011:1
2011:6 »
» 23
26
The Lyretail Anthias (Pseudanthias squamipinnis) occur in large schools in the wild around outcrops on the
reef. Here they feed actively from the water column, a behaviour that makes them challenging to maintain
long-term in the reef aquarium.
for aquarists to care for long term. Being planktonic down) or on sheer drop-offs. For this reason, it is
grazers, anthias fare best with almost continuous usually recommended that Pseudanthias be kept in
feeding and it is often recommended that these fish small groups of at least four fish.
be fed no less than 4-5 times through the day. Ideal
foods include brine and mysis shrimp though most
anthias will readily accept flake or pellet foods.
The vast majority of anthias offered to the aquarium

trade belong to the genus Pseudanthias though
there are others, such as the sunburst
anthias (Serranochirrhites latus)
that are commonly available.
Pseudanthias are shoaling fish,

often found on the reef by the
hundreds, forming harems of
a few males with many dozens
of females. On the other hand,
sunburst anthias are pairing
fish that are generally found in
deeper water (14-70m) com-
monly found beneath over-
the beautiful Pseudanthias pleurotaenia (Square-spot fairy basslet).
hangs (often swimming upside
Photo by Jenny Huang.
Most Pseudanthias are sexually dichromic protogy-
nous hermaphrodites, or more simply, they star t
their lives as females and then mature as males and
the sexes can be distinguished by colour differences.
Females will only become males when an oppor tu-
nity arises through social dynamics, i.e. if a male dies,
the most dominant female will take his place. For the
species that form harems this is the reason it is ideal
to keep multiple females with just a single male.
Epinephelinae
The epinephelin subfamily is the most recognisable the Barramundi Cod (Chromileptes altivelis) is too
group in the serranid family and are commonly large for most aquarists and is best admired at a
known as groupers (though some go by the name public aquarium or in the wild!
cod or trout). With members such as the coral trout,
coral cod, potato cod and the aforementioned giant
Queensland grouper, they are very familiar to any-
one with an interest in reef fishes. Despite their often
immense size, epinephelins make excellent additions
to aquariums that are suitably sized due to their har-
diness and their willingness to accept just about any
foods offered.
While it is common practice to feed large marine

predators, such as groupers, scorpionfishes and mo-
ray eels live foods, it is something that most people
would advise against for a number of reasons. Many
feeder fish offered by aquarium stores belong to various Plectropomus and Cephalopholis species
the family Cyprinidae (goldfish, carp and minnows), make their way into the hobby, though some are too
generally cheap fish that breed prolifically. The large for most aquarists. Photo by Leonard Low.
problem with these fish is that they contain a high
amount of fat but more impor tantly they produce
an enzyme called thiaminase which leads to a vita- per, which can reach 70cm in length. The more ideal
min B1 deficiency and has been shown to be a major members of the family for home aquariums belong
health concern for predators. Secondly, the practice to the genus Cephalopholis which commonly reach
of feeding live fish to captive fish is cruel as contrary lengths of between 20-50cm. This genus includes the
to what occurs in the wild, captive feeder fish are not flagtail (C. urodeta) and coral rock cods (C. mini-
given ample oppor tunity to evade their predator. atas/Plectropomus spp.) which reach lengths of 30
Groupers should be fed meaty foods and will eagerly and 40cm respectively and make exceptional addi-
accept prawns, whitebait and other suitably sized tions to a suitably sized aquarium with the added
offerings. bonus of being fairly readily available. Like most
groupers, these 2 species are par ticularly hardy and
The first concern when contemplating buying an quite placid with the obvious exception of feeding
epinephelin grouper is the size of the aquarium it will time where they are usually quite aggressive feeders.
be housed in as well as the maximum size of the fish.
There are several species that are commonly offered Like most members of the serranid family, epinephelin
to aquarists which reach sizes that make them highly groupers are largely solitary fish that tend to live in
undesirable for the average aquarist (or even those and around caves and overhangs where they can
with exceptionally large home aquariums). These hide and ambush their prey. In the aquarium, caves
include the barramundi cod (Chromileptes altivelis – or rock ledges should be provided and only 1 speci-
formally changed from the genus name Cromileptes), men of a given species should be kept in an aquari-
also known as the butterfly cod or polka dot grou- um. In larger aquariums these fish can be mixed but

than) and more than one soapfish should not be
kept in the same aquarium as they are highly territo-
rial. Despite being territorial against their own kind,
soapfish are placid towards other fish and will gener-
ally tolerate other fish of equal or greater size.
The strikingly marked Sixline Soapfish (Grammistes

sexlineatus) is sometimes seen in the aquarium trade.
In mature Sixline Soapfish the lines

break into a series of attractive dashes.
separate rock structures should be provided and
they should be sufficiently spaced apar t in order to
avoid fights for dominance and territory.
Grammistinae
Soapfishes are not common in the aquarium trade
but occasionally specimens of a few species such
as the sixline soapfish, Grammistes sexlineatus, are
available. One of the major drawbacks to keeping
these fish is the fact they produce a toxic mucous –
grammistin - which is released through their skin that
has the potential to kill all fish in an average sized
aquarium, including the soapfish.
Apar t from this, soapfish are extremely hardy and

do well in the home aquarium. Like most serranids, Hamlet fish are sometimes available and are the
they are ambush predators and feed on small fish best known members of the subfamily Serraninae.
and crustaceans. This means that they should not Top: Shy Hamlet (Hypoplectrus guttavarius),
be kept with tankmates that are smaller than them- Centre: Barred Hamlet (Hypoplectrus puella),
selves (or fish that they will grow substantially larger Bottom: Indigo Hamlet (Hypoplectrus indigo).

sessile inver tebrates such as corals, anemones and
molluscs and besides small fish, only pose a threat
to crustaceans such as crabs and shrimp. These fish
are reclusive and spend most of their time amongst
rockwork. Given their behaviour and their small size,
it is generally recommended they are kept in fairly
small aquariums where they can be viewed easily as
they tend to remain out of view in larger aquariums.
Serraninae
The subfamily serraninae contains few if any spe-
cies of interest to aquarists. This is not because of
aggression, hardiness or size but rather because
Liopropoma rubre aka Peppermint bass. most members of this subfamily are found in sub-
Photo by Brian Gratwicke tropical and temperate waters around the world
from southern Australia to the Mediterranean and
Liopropomatinae nor thern Atlantic Ocean. These fish tend to grow to
around 20-40cm so are suitable for larger temperate
This is a subfamily consisting of just a single genus
and 28 species that share a distinct torpedo-like aquariums and like most members of the family, they
body shape. As a group, the members of the sub- are not difficult to keep. Their colours tend to be less
family Liopropomatinae do not have a common vibrant than other Serranids but they still often have
name though most members are referred to as bass bold reds and yellows making them far from unat-
(such as the peppermint bass, Liopropoma rubre) tractive.
or basslets (such as the pinstriped reef basslet,
Liopropoma susumi). Members of this subfamily are In general, serranids are great additions to home
generally small, reaching up to around 10cm, with aquariums, whether you’re after a small shoal of
some larger species reaching around 15cm. However, something pretty or something large and colourful
despite their size and generally attractive coloura- with a heap of personality. They are ideal additions
tions these fish are seldom offered to aquarists. Like to fish only aquariums or full reef aquariums as no
other members of the serranid family, these fish are members of the family pose a risk to sessile inver te-
carnivorous and their diet consists primarily of small brates such as corals and anemones. They are hugely
fish and crustaceans. popular fish for all types of aquarists and there are
plenty of reasons behind their popularity.
Most information with
respect to these fish in
aquariums comes from
candy basslets (Liopro-
poma carmabi) which
are not uncommon in
the US aquarium trade
though absent from the
Australian trade due
to impor t regulations.
These fish tend to be
quite placid and will co-
habitate well with most
other aquarium fish of
suitable size (keeping
in mind they will feed
on smaller fish). They
are safe to keep with

Vanuatu
Snorkel
Reef « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 32

In September 2011 two members of the Redfish team visited the tropical South
Pacific island of Efate, in Vanuatu. We spent almost all of our time there snorkel-
ling the marine sanctuary of Hideaway Island (a small coral atoll just off the main
island) and the pristine reefs of Moso Island. It was a unique and rewarding expe-
rience to swim with so many of our favourite aquarium species of coral and fish in
their natural habitat. Here’s a pictorial tour of our time there.
Top left: Interesting inver tebrates abound on the reef.

Top right: Amphiprion melanopus - one of several anemonefish species found on the reef,
hiding in anemone tentacles.
Bottom left: A Spiny Squirrelfish (Sargocentron spiniferum)
Bottom right: Colourful wrasses such as this one are very tame and will follow you around the reef like a dog.

Top Left: A brightly coloured coral growing
on the Hideaway reef.
Top right: The Scribbled Leatherjacket (Aluterus
scriptus) can grow to a length of 1 metre.
Right: Clark’s anemonefish (Amphiprion clarkii)
Reefkeeping
Coldwater
Technical « Redfish Magazine 2011:3
2011:2 » 24
2011:4 34
26
Top left: One of the many species of friendly, brightly coloured wrasses, this 6-Bar Wrasse, (Thalassoma
hardwicke), obligingly allowed itself to be photographed!
Top right: These Amphiprion melanopus were par t of a colony of at least 40 fish, each
claiming their own host anemone within quite a small area.
Middle left: Lovely vistas such as this are a common sight when snorkelling the reef at Hideaway Island
Middle right: The fish are extremely tame and take very little notice of human visitors.
Bottom left: This large school of bait fish regularly schooled in the same area and were easy to locate.
Bottom right: One metre long Giant Trevally (Caranx ignobilis) constantly patrolled the school of bait
fish and would periodically lunge at the group, attempting to catch one of the fish.

Top left: Ring-eyed Hawkfish (Paracirrhites arcatus) are common but are shy and can be hard to spot. They
are usually found sitting on coral branches.
Top right: Amphiprion akindynos is known as the Barrier Reef Anemonefish
but it is also found in Vanuatu.
Middle left: Moorish Idols (Zanclus cornutus) are a common sight.
Middle right: Giant Clams are plentiful and have a huge range of colours and patterns on their mantles.
Bottom right: This reef near Moso Island is less frequently visited by tourists and as a result is in better condi-
tion with a greater variety and denser growth of coral.
Bottom left: Rhinecanthus verrucosus, the Blackbelly Triggerfish

Top left: A pair of Beaked Leatherjackets (Oxymonacanthus longirostris), stunning oddities of the reef
Top right: Amphiprion melanopus
Bottom left: Locals examine the body of an adult tur tle, which has been attacked by a very large shark. Note how
cleanly cut the edges of shell are - the shark’s bite is so powerful it has sheared through the tough shell without
any crushing action. The shark was witnessed by several divers who identified it as a Tiger Shark. The body of the
tur tle was removed from the water to discourage the shark from staying in the area.
Bottom right: Large, healthy Acropora corals are a welcome sight. These ones are close to a metre in diameter.

Top left: The wonderfully patterned Undulated Triggerfish (Balistapus undulatus) is easily found on the reef.
Top right: Parrotfish constantly chew on the hard corals.
Middle left: The Clown Wrasse (Coris gaimard) is not only a very pretty fish, it also has a lot of personality!
Middle right: The Chevroned Butterflyfish (Chaetodon trifasciatus).
Bottom left: The Dragon Wrasse (Novaculichthys taeniourus) is a robust fish which is able to move quite
large chunks of coral rubble and rocks with its mouth when looking for food.
Bottom right: Balistapus undulatus

Top right: A perfect tropical view from the Tranquility Island tur tle sanctuary, in nor thern Efate.
Top left: facilites at Hideaway Island.
Middle left: The Hideaway Island jetty.
Middle right: Mele Cascades are only a shor t distance from Por t Vila.
Bottom left: Mele Cascades - not all of Vanuatu’s beauty is underwater!
Bottom right: Hideaway Island as viewed from the surrounding reef.

Top left: This Barracuda cruised slowly past, allowing us to estimate its length at about 1.6 metres.
Top right: This Giant Moray Eel (with Cleaner Wrasse) is a resident of the Hideaway reef. It lives up to its
name, measuring at least 3 metres in length.
Bottom left: One of the pristine reefs of Moso Island.
Bottom right: Another reef just off Moso Island.
Scuba diving on a tropical coral reef is an amazing experience, but it requires a lot
of equipment and training, and for health reasons is not always possible for every-
one. Snorkelling is a great low-tech alternative to diving - the equipment is much
simpler and only basic swimming and ocean safety knowledge is required. The
reefs of Vanuatu are easily accessible for snorkellers and offer a rich and diverse
array of fish and corals to explore. We’d highly recommend Vanuatu as a destina-
tion for anyone with an interest in fish.

Illumination by Sara Allyn Mavinkurve
PART II
Now that you know all about light itself, this article (Part II of two), will discuss the different types of
lighting systems and fixtures available for aquariums. Almost all aquarium lighting falls into one of three
broad categories; metal halide, fluorescent, and LED.
Fluorescent
Fluorescent lighting utilizes a bulb enclosing mercury vapor. Electricity passing through the mercury
vapor results in the production of ultraviolet light. This ultraviolet light causes phosphor to “fluoresce” (i.e.
produce visible light).
Linear tube fluorescent bulbs come in a variety of different

diameters (sizes around). Some of the different styles, shapes
and sizes of fluorescent bulbs are referred to as T2, T8, T12,
T5, etc. If you thought the “T” in T5 stood for something
highly technical, I’m sorry to disappoint you. The “T” in T5
simply stands for “Tube.” In any event, linear tube fluorescent
bulbs are used in a great number of aquarium lighting fixtures.
Generally, T5 lighting is relatively efficient, affordable and reli-
able.
T5 bulbs are a favorite for aquarium light fixtures for a few

reasons. One reason is that they have a small diameter (about
a centimeter and a half ). The smaller the diameter, the more
bulbs you can line up over the width of an aquarium. T5
fluorescent bulbs are also generally more efficient, producing
in the range of 70 to 100 lumens per watt. “Compact” fluo-
rescent bulbs are just fluorescent bulbs which have been bent
and/or twisted around, in one fashion or another, presumably
to allow them fit in a smaller space. A compact fluorescent bulb could be one continuous tube simply bent
in half once, or it could be twisted around to fit into a space normally intended for a round incandescent
bulb. High Output (HO) fluorescent bulbs and fixtures produce more light but also consume more watts.
Very High Output (VHO) fluorescent bulbs produce even more light and consume even more electricity.
There are all kinds of fluorescent lighting fixtures available for aquariums, in just about all sizes and light-
ing demands. Some may say that you can’t keep Acropora sp. (or any “SPS”) under fluorescent lighting.
However, that’s simply not true. I’ll concede that it might be difficult to keep SPS corals at two or three
feet below a T5 lighting fixture (due to lack of light at that depth). However, you can certainly keep SPS
corals higher up in an aquarium with sufficient T5 lighting. The drawbacks of fluorescent lighting are 1)
need for bulb replacement every six months, and 2) limited light intensity over a given area.
Metal Halide
Also known as “flood lights,” metal halide bulbs and fixtures probably offer the most intense lighting
readily available to reef aquarists at affordable prices. Metal halide bulbs are either single (mogul base) or
double ended (HQI). The double ended bulbs are thought to produce more light. Ballasts for metal ha-
lide light fixtures come in different wattages and varieties. Electronic ballasts are thought to be somewhat
more efficient than magnetic ballasts.
Metal halide lights have their pros and cons. Under the pros of metal halides is that these lights are reliable
producers of high intensity lighting. They are available in relatively inexpensive forms, and are available in
several different K ratings. Under the cons, metal halide lights are rapacious consumers of electricity and no-
torious heat producers. It’s not an exaggeration to say you could “cook an egg” on a typical 250 watt metal
halide light pendant after it’s been on for an hour or two. Metal halide bulbs, like fluorescent bulbs, contain
mercury vapor. One major difference is that metal halide bulbs also contain “metal salts” which increase light
intensity. Different kinds of metal salts, and different mixes of gases/vapors inside the bulb, can produce
different spectrum patterns of light (and different K ratings). Most metal halide light fixtures produce in the
range of 60 to 120 lumens per watt. The quality of the bulb certainly makes a difference.
Aesthetically speaking, metal halide lighting is probably the most visually appealing to most people (at least
in my experience). Most notably, metal halide lighting produces “glitter lines” (flickering beams of light
which look like sunlight through water). Some LED light fixtures also produce some of this glitter line ef-
fect. For whatever reason, we don’t see much, if any, of this glitter line effect with fluorescent lighting.
LED
Light-emitting diodes represent an entirely different kind of lighting. LED “bulbs” are not tubes filled with
mercury vapor. The basic unit of any LED light is deceptively simple. It’s a cathode and an anode inside a
semiconductor material. I’ll try to give an over-simplified explanation of how it all works. An LED light
unit creates an environment wherein higher energy electrons can fall into a lower state of energy, emitting
light as they do so. The difference between the starting and ending energy states of the electrons (the “band
gap” in technical terms) determines the wavelength of the light produced. This is the basic physical process
common to all LED lights. Just about everything else about an LED light can vary. Consequently LED
lights come in a great variety of shapes, sizes, intensities and colors. There are countless types of semicon-
ducting materials which can be used (and more are developed every day).
Long story short, not all LED lights are the same, much less equal. Although I understand the excitement
over LED lights (in many applications, ranging from aquariums to Christmas trees), I’ve noticed that this
new “craze” has resulted in some exaggerated buzzing on the merits of LED lights. Most notably, LED
lights are sometimes rumored to be highly efficient, cool-running and last a lifetime. As the expression goes,
“if something sounds too good to be true, it probably is.” The truth is that not all LED lights deserve such a
fantastic reputation. In fact, only a few types are able to produce the high intensity light needed for normal
sized reef aquariums.
Not all LED lights are entirely cool-running. In fact, many high power LED lights heat up to the point of
threatening their own integrity. A well designed LED light will direct heat away from the light source. To
combat the heat, many high power LED lights are also equipped with an aluminum heat sink (which of-
ten looks like a silver micron filter shaped structure behind the light source). No big deal, right? Well, one
of the things people tend to like about LED lights is that they’re usually compact and smaller than other
lights. However, these heat sinks can add quite a lot of bulk to these lights. Once all is said and done, a well
designed high output LED lighting system, capable of producing enough light for a reef aquarium, could
potentially take up just as much space as any other lighting system. Any high intensity LED light is going
to produce at least some heat. If the light isn’t designed well, the heat will not be adequately directed away
from the light source. Such faulty designs can cause the lights to fail. It’s true that LED lights, in many ap-
plications, are strikingly more efficient than their incandescent and/or halogen bulb counterparts. However,
believe it or not, in terms of lumens per watt, many LED lights (in application) are only about as efficient
as quality T5 fluorescent lighting. In theory, LED lights could, in the future, be far more efficient than they
currently are. Right now, when it comes to efficiency, most LEDs are not much (if at all) better than any
high efficiency fluorescent lighting system.
LED lights do not last forever. Well designed, high quality, LED lights can last up to 20+ years of continu-

ous use. That much is true. Unfortunately, there are a lot of low quality, poorly designed, LED lights out
there on the market. Lower quality LED lights will almost certainly fail; if not immediately, then within a
matter of time.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m just as excited about LEDs as anyone. I even
spent $60 on one of those nifty new dimmable LED PAR38 bulbs
(which came with a remote control!). Unfortunately, I couldn’t find any
practical use for it. It was a cool “toy” and probably would have made a
great light for a nano-reef aquarium. In any event, my personal opinion
is that, currently, the available quality LED aquarium fixtures (for “nor-
mal” sized aquariums) are prohibitively expensive. The more affordable
LED fixtures are typically small and/or otherwise not sufficient for nor-
mal sized reef aquariums (unless you acquire several units). DIY LED
fixtures might be cheaper, but they’re still rather pricy to construct.
Many people believe that the high cost of LED light aquarium fixtures
is due, at least in part, to the expensive litigation between Orbitec and
PFO (two lighting companies fighting over a patent). Some aquarists are
hopeful that once this patent dispute is resolved, one way or another, the
price for LED light fixtures will decline. Personally, I’m not so sure that
will be the case. Patent disputes often go on for years with no concrete
resolution. More often than not, the parties in dispute come to an agree-
ment behind closed doors. Whatever the outcome of the Orbitec patent
dispute, I wouldn’t expect the price of quality LED aquarium light fixtures
to decline any time soon. In fact, I personally think prices might even go up as more expensive and more
advanced technologies become available. Who knows?
So now that you know at least a little bit about all the different types of aquarium lighting, here are some tips
I’ve picked up over the years:
Five Tips for Choosing a Lighting System:

1. Consider your budget. This requires consideration of more than just the initial cost of the set up.
Estimate the monthly electricity cost. Also factor in the cost of bulb replacements (if applicable).
2. Don’t forget the ballast! If you’re buying a light fixture, make sure you know whether or not it
comes with the required ballast. Some aquarium light fixtures have the ballast(s) built into the fixture itself;
others don’t.
3. Know what you want to keep. Obviously, the kinds of corals you plan to keep will determine how
much light you need.
4. Take your time. Most reef aquarists spend anywhere from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars
on their lighting systems. When you’re putting out that kind of cash, you want to make sure you’re get-
ting what you pay for – and getting what you want. Don’t focus on trying to find the cheapest (or the most
expensive) lighting system available. Look for quality and value.
5. Look around. Ask around. Pay attention to what lighting fixtures you see over other aquariums
(in your LFS, at your friend’s house, etc.) If you don’t know what it is you’re looking at, ask. Ask people
about their experiences with different types of systems and different brands. Look at ratings and reviews on
vendor websites.
I hope you’ve enjoyed reading these two articles on aquarium lighting. I’ve certainly enjoyed writing them.
Now, if only I could decide on what lighting system to get for my own aquarium!
Sara Allyn Mavinkurve is a WetWebMedia crew member who has authored a range of ar ticles on corals and
marine aquariums for international and US fishkeeping magazines. She’s a special guest at the Marine Aquariums
of South Africa. When she’s not writing about fish, Sara is an attorney who SCUBA dives in her ever-shrinking
amounts of free-time.
We hope you enjoyed this issue.
Please, tell a friend about Redfish.
www.redfishmagazine.com.au
Contact Details
email: [email protected]
web: www.redfishmagazine.com.au
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Redfish Publishing Pty Ltd.

PO Box 109, Berowra Heights,
NSW, Australia. 2082.
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Redfish Issue #6, December 2011

Light insensity (%)

0 200 400 600 800 1000

Model Number Dimensions Power

11000K (white only) Total Output

16 Red Lotus Redfish Publishing. Pty Ltd.

(Top row. Left to Right)

40 Illumination: Guide to lighting (Part II) (Bottom row. Left to Right)

General Advice Warning

This general advice is not a substitute for,

About Redfish Opinions & Views

Redfish was founded in early 2011 by Jessica Drake,

We hope you enjoy this, the sixth issue of Redfish.

Photo courtesy: (matt)

A team of marine scientists have analyzed the

The study revealed that widely distributed ani-

“Putting Nemo in office aquariums, making soup

All species of marine turtles (“Squirt” and

“Our study found that threatened sharks and

News « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 5

Conservation relies on strong, well-founded

While the research shows a stark shortfall in

IUCN works on biodiversity, climate change, energy,

News « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 6

The Range consists of:

Aqua One Moray

Biological, mechanical and chemical filter

Aqua One products are widely available

Off the shelf « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 7

AQUATOP’s PSE-1 Protein Skimmer Elite is a hybrid

The 7-watt UV Sterilizer helps to prevent unwanted al-

Off the shelf « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 8

Ripariums emulate shorelines by utilizing the plants found

Planted ripariums should not be confused with paludarium

The first style is perfect for aquarists that enjoy collect-

The second approach also has a low water level (again,

Freshwater « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 11

Proper filtration in the planted riparium is best achieved if a

Freshwater « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 12

Obtaining the majority of riparium plants is not difficult. A

For a high humidity riparium, emersed aquatic plants are

The conditions in a riparium provide all the vital

Freshwater « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 13

Redfish Magazine Photo Contest. Oct 2011 - Dec 2011

Redfish Magazine is pleased to announce the second of its quarterly Aquarium

The theme this quarter is:

Codeword: MANAGUENSE “Starfish” by Clinton & Charles Robertson

Entering the photo contest

Please check the rules and regulations prior to entry.

Rules and Regulations

Detailed rules and regulations are available at:

First, some basics. Red Lotus is native to tropi-

Neutral water (pH 6.0-7.3) is ideal for the

In terms of propagation, plantlets are some-

The green and tricolour forms have much the

Tropical Freshwater « Redfish Magazine 2011:1

With their long,

Text and photos by Mo Devlin

Blog « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 18

Blog « Redfish Magazine 2011:6 » 19