Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research, volume 390

International Conference on Research and Academic Community Services (ICRACOS 2019)

Upcycling Wedding Gowns: Development Of Design, Materials

And Ornaments

Ratna Suhartini* Aldia Haryuninda Danardewi

Department of Family Welfare, Faculty Juhrah Singke Alumni of Department of Family
of Engineering Department of Family Welfare, Faculty Welfare, Faculty of Engineering
of Engineering
University State of Surabaya University State of Surabaya
Surabaya, Indonesia University State of Surabaya Surabaya, Indonesia
[email protected] Surabaya, Indonesia
[email protected] [email protected]
*corresponding author

Abstract— This study aims to analyze: a) upcycling of Research on 29 designs has a high value added upcycled
bridal gowns in terms of design development, material luxury bag for the Dubai fashion market developed from pre-
uniformity, decoration and upcycling feasibility. This consumer waste produced from the manufacturing process
type of research is research exploration. Research and sewing fashion products. The design generated from the
procedures include a) problem collection, b) Gathering following research is planned to be sold as a limited exclusive
wedding gowns, c) developing wedding dresses from line on Harvey Nichols and Dubai Bloomingdale from the S /
design aspects, material harmony, decoration d) design S 2014 season. Market analysis and design models proposed
validation e) design revisions, f) realizing the product. in the current study generally apply in the development of
future trade markets (Kim, Hyun Joo. 2014).
Observations were made on 2 wedding dresses. There are
30 Observer experts in the field of fashion. Data were Developing bridal gown collections using upcycling
analyzed quantitatively descriptive, using percentages, techniques to be profitable, marketed and sustainable without
then categorized. The results of the research on one and creating waste. This research defines and analyzes fashion
two wedding gowns that are viewed from the development industry waste, sustainable methods and techniques, along
of the design are very good, the harmony of the material with addressing the impact of fast fashion waste on humans.
is very good, the decoration details are very good. Upcycling techniques are the least wasteful, because they
involve the transformation of clothing, textiles, and materials
Keywords—design development, material, ornaments, that are dumped into items of higher value or value.
upcycling, wedding gown, Researchers developed a collection of wedding dresses, by
recycling two discarded gowns and only using discarded
I. INTRODUCTION textiles. Upcycled couture, shown at the annual CSUN fashion
The wedding gown industry is one of the largest waste show in spring 2016. (Karkazian, Talene Lynn 2016).
contributor industries, in terms of usage, storage and This study aims to understand current upcycling behavior
manufacturing costs. Wedding gown designs are demanded and behavioral influencing factors to develop design
innovative and modern. The waste produced comes from interventions and policies for order development to increase
bridal clothes that are no longer used, or up to date and the rest the upcycling scale. The results of the study show provide
of the production. The prepared material has many types and insight into the latest recycling behavior. Behavioral factors
volumes. The material used is taken a little, as needed, so it that influence upcycling are demographic characteristics,
gives a lot of waste. Waste wedding dresses consist of bridal upcycling has the potential to create high attachments that lead
gowns that fail products, have poor quality, no more storage to longevity products. The survey revealed specific key
space. (Huffington Post, 2013). The high fashion waste is also behavioral factors (intentions, attitudes and subjective norms)
caused by the many shops that offer bridal or salon gowns that and potential target groups of people in art and design aged 30
get rid of their grief because they are not up to date damaged years or more) based on group differences. Fifteen (15)
/ defective and cannot be repaired. promising designs and interventions to formulate policies to
The alternative for bride dress waste is to process wedding improve upcycling. (Kyungeun, Sung. 2017).
gowns using the upcycling method. This upcycling technique Research on developing methods for craft-based recycling
was chosen to redesign discarded wedding gowns (Braungart design through literature review, interviews and practical
& McDonough, 2002). Usability for customers is to be able to research on plastic waste materials. Research shows certain
buy fashionable wedding dresses at affordable prices and factors that lead to successful upcycling designs are: (1).
(Braungart & McDonough, 2003). Upcycling is to reuse Passion for design or making crafts; (2) Experience, related
something by producing something more high-quality and background and practice; (3) Good tools, machines and
valuable than the original (Kress and Fry 2016: 190). accessories; (4) Creative thinking. There are six phases that
Anderson (2014), upcycling is using something that is not are repeated in this method: (1). Brainstorm what products
valuable or that is not used to be something valuable without will be made; (2) Build an inspirational council to choose what
having a negative impact on the environment. products to make; (3) Concept visualization; (4) Making

Copyright © 2020 The Authors. Published by Atlantis Press SARL.

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 Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research, volume 390

experimental prototypes; (5) Producing products; (6) C. Wedding Gown Material

Refection on process. These phases are considered as an Some types of fabrics used to make wedding dresses:
iteration, there may be several iterations depending on the Lace, silk, taffeta, satin, brocade, charmeuse, chiffon,
situation (Wang Jin, 2018). damask, georgette, jersey, organza, tulle and wool. (Elizabeth
The next research that will be carried out is upcycling the Shimmer (2004: 48) and Tina Andrea (wedding inspiration:
bridal gown in terms of design development, material 2009) Bridal dress decorations consist of: appliques, beading,
suitability, decoration and the feasibility of upcycling the edging, embroidery, jewels, pearls, sequins.
wedding gown.
III. RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
This type of research is quantitative descriptive research.
II. LITERATURE REVIEW Describe the upcycling of wedding gowns through the
exploration stage of design including design development,
A. Upcycling Wedding Gown material harmony, decoration and the feasibility of wedding
Upcycling is the creativity to transform used goods into gowns. Upcycling techniques use 2 techniques, change the
useful without going through the process of processing design and add material and upcycling decoration materials
materials. The quality of goods that are changed to more have that are suitable for use but have torn defects, holes, designs
good function values. Upcycle is a method to stop the designed for sources of inspiration, up to date wedding dress
demands of the large number of productions that will become designs. Data collection techniques using observation. The
waste (Shruti Kuswaha, Charu Swami 2016). Upcycle is a Observer consists of wedding dress practitioners, bridal gown
particular recycled form that uses wasted material or old designers, salon and bridal entrepreneurs, fashion designers,
products, is not desirable to be a quality new product (Kim and fashion design lecturers in Surabaya. The number of
Hyun Joo, 2014). The purpose of upcycle is to prevent waste observers is 30 people. The research design is as follows.
of material by utilizing existing material. (Benson and
Stephen, 2009).
The technique used for Upcycle wedding gowns is to
change the design of clothing and add variety, decoration or
materials. 1) Changing out-of-date clothing models to up-to-
date clothes, by changing the wedding dress model into a
useful back dress. 2) Adding material or decoration can
beautify and add quality from clothing. Adding decorative
materials can use new materials or old materials that are still
suitable for use.
B. The Development of Wedding Gown Designs
A wedding gown is a gown that consists of one or two
upper lower parts that are joined (sewn) into one, the Figure I. Research Design
silhouette of a variety of dresses can be loose or body shape
and the length of the dress also varies (Hasanah et al, 2011; The steps of the research that have been carried out by the
70). There are 5 types of wedding dresses: 1) classic / researcher: 1) Reviewing the potential and problems include:
traditional, 2) Romantic, 3) Victorian, 4) Outdoor / garden, a) Literature study on upcycle wedding gowns, b) Interviews
and 5) Contemporary. The color of the wedding gown is with bridal gown designers and experts on wedding dress
white, Ivory, diamond white, alabaster, light gold, and upcycle. 2) Collection of bridal gowns that are looking for
champagne. Wedding dress design (Holly, 2007): ball-gown, used bridal gowns that will be upcycle in bridal gowns and
empire, A-line, Sheath, mermaid, trumpet. The hallmark of bridal boutiques 3) Design development that is developing
wedding dresses is trains, which means tail dresses. Train or designs of used wedding gowns, each of the 3 designs 4)
this tail is a cloth that is behind the dress and can be part of Design validation includes: a) selection of wedding dress
the dress or just be an addition, the tail can also be placed on designs will be on upcycle, b) Selection of bridal gown
the back of the waist or stretched to the floor from the back designs performed by wedding gown designers 5) Revised
of the shoulder. According to The Wedding Gown Book, designs include: a) revision of the design of upcycle wedding
Elizabeth Shimer (2004; 45), there are 4 types of trains, dresses chosen by wedding dress designers b) revisions to the
namely: sweep, chapel, cathedral, and royal. design of wedding gowns chosen by fashion lecturers 6)
The Upcycle wedding dresses cannot be separated from Manufacture of products that make upcycling products bridal
the development of design. According to Triyanto, 2012; 46) gown designs I and upcycling bridal gown designs II 7)
development is a process carried out by a creator in Product revisions namely product revisions carried out by
processing, making and determining the style of various fashion experts 8) Data deployment process of product
objects. To make a design development must understand the distribution includes: a) managing research data b) drawing
concepts of design types, design elements, design principles conclusions.
and design development techniques. Designers need to pay
attention to structural design, decoration design, design Data analysis to find out the wedding gown upcycling
elements, design principles. The design development products in terms of aspects of design development, material
technique consists of: stilton, distortion, transformation, suitability, decoration, and the feasibility of wedding dress
deformation techniques. upcycling products using percentages and mean values.

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 Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research, volume 390

IV. RESULT AND DISCUSSION Upcycling I wedding gown products and upcycling II
wedding dresses, viewed from decoration details can be seen
A. Result in Diagram 4.3 and 4.4.
a. Wedding gown products in terms of design
development 1) Harmony of Material Combination

1. Conformity Development of Upcycling Wedding Harmony of Material

gown Designs
Combination
93%
100% 77%

50% 23%
7%
0%
gown 1 gown 2

yes no

Figure 4. The Harmony of Ingredients

Based on figure 4, the harmony of the material on the

Figure 2. The Percentage of Results Will Be Design Development
wedding gown is measured in terms of the harmony of the
2) Attractive Wedding gown Upcycling material mix, the bridal gown upcycling I is 93% the answer
"yes" and 7% the answer "no". Categorized as harmony the
wedding dress material is "very good". Whereas upcycling II
More attractive than the old gown wedding dresses are 77% "yes" and 23% "no". Categorized
design as harmony of wedding dress material "good".
93% 90%
100% 2) Selection of New Material Colors Match with Old
50% Materials
7% 10%
0% Harmony of Color Selection for
gown 1 gown 2 New Dress Material with Old
yes no Gown
200%
Figure 3: Attractive Upcycling
97% 100%
100%
Based on the review of the more attractive designs of the
3% 0%
old gowns, the bridal gown upcycling I was 93% "yes" and 0%
7% "no". It can be categorized as the new "very good"
gown 1 gown 2
upcycling wedding gown design. As for upcycling II wedding
gowns for 90% "yes" answers and 10% "no" answers. yes no
Categorized the design of the new upcycling wedding dress
"very good". Figure 5. Harmony in Color Selection
Table 1 the Average Value of the Finished Product Design
Gown 1 Gown 2 Based on the figure 5 indicator results so that the harmony
of the material on the wedding gown is seen in terms of the
Yes No Yes No harmony of the choice of material colors, the wedding gown
of the first dress for 97% of the answers "yes" and 3% the
90% 10% 93% 7%
answer "no". It is categorized as the choice of the color of the
93% 7% 90% 10% wedding dress material "very good". Whereas the bridal
gown upcycling II is 100% "yes" and 0% answer "no".
Average Average Average Average Categorized the selection of wedding dress colors "very
good".
92% 8% 92% 8%
Table 2 the Average Value of the Product Mix of Ingredients
Gown 1 Gown 2
On average the results of the development of the design
of the wedding gown upcycling, the wedding gown upcycling Yes No Yes No
I the average answer "yes" 92% and the answer "no" 8%.
Wedding dress upcycling II the average answer is "yes" 92% 93% 7% 77% 23%
and the answer is "no" 8%. 97% 3% 100% 0%
b. Wedding Gown Products Viewed From Material
Average Average Average Average
Harmony
95% 5% 88.5% 11.5%

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 Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research, volume 390

gown upcycling I which was viewed from the suitability of

The average bridal gown product is covered in terms of the "very good" decoration details. Whereas for wedding
the harmony of the wedding gown material and the average gowns upcycling II is 97% "yes" and 3% "no". The
"yes" answer is 95% and the answer is "no" 5%. Wedding categorical suitability of the upcycle wedding gown details is
dress upcycling II the average "yes" answer is 88.5% and the “very good”. So, the average harmony of bridal gown
answer is "no" 11.5%. decorations is the average "yes" answer of 93.5% and the
answer is "no" 6.5%. Wedding dress upcycling II the average
c. Wedding Gown Products Viewed From Decoration "yes" answer is 98.5% and the answer is "no" 1.5%
Details
Table 3: The Average of Decoration Harmony
Upcycling wedding gown products that are reviewed Gown 1 Gown 2
from decoration details can be seen in diagrams 5
Yes No Yes No
1) Suitability Details on Upcycle Wedding Gown
90% 10% 100% 0%

97% 3% 97% 3%

Average Average Average Average

93.5% 6.5% 98.5% 1.5%

d. Development of Upcycle Wedding Gowns

The product of the design of the bridal gown upcycling I
and the bridal gown upcycling II, which is viewed from the
product of the development of the bridal gown upcycling can
be seen in the bar chart in diagrams 4.7 and 4.8.
1) Upcycle Wedding Gown Products Up To Date
Figure 6. Suitability of Decoration Details

Based on the figure 6 of the product indicators, details of

bridal gown trimmings are viewed in terms of the suitability
of the details of the gown, wedding gowns, and I for 90% of
the answers "yes" and 10% of the answers "no". It was
explained that the product indicators detail the gowns of
bridal gowns that are viewed from the suitability of "very
good" decoration details. Whereas for wedding dresses,
upcycling II is 100% "yes" and 0% "no". Categorized as the
suitability of the details of bridal gown decoration upcycling
"very good".
2) Harmony Details on Upcycle Wedding Gowns with
Materials
Figure 8. The Wedding Gown Products Upcycle Up to Date

Based on the 7’s indicator chart, the product of the

development of bridal gown designs is including up to date,
and the wedding gowns are 87% "yes" and 13% "no". It was
explained that the product indicators for the development of
bridal gown designs were included to be "very good".
Whereas for upcycling II wedding dresses 80% for "yes"
answers and 20% "no" answers. It was explained that the
indicators for the development of bridal gown designs were
included to be up to date "very good".
2) Upcycle Wedding Gowns Worth Using
Based on Figure 8 of the product indicators, the
development of the upcycling wedding gown design is
Figure 7. Harmony of Decoration Details with Ingredients
feasible to wear, for the bridal gown upcycling I for 97% of
the answer "yes" and 3% the answer "no". It was explained
Based on the figure 7 indicator of the product details on that the indicator of the wedding gown upcycling deserves to
bridal gown decoration, which are viewed from the harmony be used "very well". Whereas for wedding gowns upcycling
of the decoration details with the material, for the wedding II is 100% for "yes" and 0% answers for "no" answers.
gown upcycling I is 97% "yes" and 3% "no". It was explained Explained that the upcycling wedding dress indicator
that the results indicator became the details of the wedding deserves "very good". Used.

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 Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research, volume 390

namely size, size, shape of clothing models are elements that

Upcycle Wedding Gowns Worth need to be taken into account in fashion design (Soekarno,
Reuse 2004: 28).
150% Upcycling I wedding gowns are more interesting because
97% 100%
100% changing the silhouette of the skirt also adds a cape, the cape
is designed to be detachable or removable. The length of the
50% cape is limited to sweeping the floor, this type is suitable for
3% 0%
0% marriages that are not too formal (Elizabeth Shimer 2004:
gown 1 gown 2 45).

yes no
The development of the Upcycling II wedding gown is
more attractive because it fosters the design of the skirt, the
Figure 8. upcycling wedding gowns worth wearing new design skirt is developed into a half-circle skirt with
splits in the front and chapel / chapel tail trains with a length
Table 4 Develops the Results into Upcycle Wedding Gowns of 1-1.5 m. This type of tail is suitable for formal weddings
Dress 1 Dress 2 (Elizabeth Shimer 2004; 45).

Yes No Yes No b. Upcycling wedding gown products viewed from material

harmony
87% 13% 80% 20%
1) Upcycle Wedding Gowns Have Harmony in the
97% 3% 100% 0% Combination of Materials

Average Average Average Average The results of the research into the aspects of the harmony
of the wedding gowns of upcycling have the right
92% 8% 90% 10% combination of techniques and fabrics so that they can make
an essential wedding dress. The combination of wedding
So, the average feasibility of a wedding gown upcycling gown material upcycling takes into account the texture of the
wedding gown upcycling I the average answer "yes" 92% and material to be selected. Harmony in the combination of bridal
the answer "no" 8%. Wedding dress upcycling II the average gowns upcycling has the existence of harmony and
"yes" answer is 90% and the answer is "no" 10%. compatibility between objects one and the other objects when
combined (Soekarno, 2004: 29). In an upcycle wedding dress
one combines the type of satin and tile. The two upcycle
B. Discussion wedding dresses combine satin and chiffon material.
a. Wedding gown upcycling products are reviewed from
design development 2) The Color Selection of Wedding Gown Material Matched
with Old Wedding Gown Material
1) The Conformity Development of Upcycle Wedding Dress
Design The results of the study from the aspect of harmony in the
color of the wedding gown are viewed from the color
The results of the research on the development of selection. The material for the bridal gown upcycling I, II is
wedding gown designs upcycle in terms of suitability a new color. In choosing the color of the material selected
Development of bridal gown designs upcycling, development colors that are similar or as close as possible similar to the
of bridal gowns upcycling I, II developed into a new design color of the original material. The color of the original gown
without removing the characteristics of an object and the material is ivory color. The color of clothing greatly affects
principle of development. the overall appearance so that the choice of colors that are
The development of bridal gown designs is developing a suitable, harmonious, and in accordance with time and
structural design that is also called silhouette (Soekarno 2004; opportunity is very appropriate (Soekarno, 2004: 14). Colors
10) before the gown is developed, the silhouette of old and materials as well as harmony in the form of fashion
dresses in the form of A line with strapless silhouette and A (Soekarno, 2004: 29).
line skirt, after the design development was changed to c. The upcycling wedding gown products are reviewed from
silhouette, I line with strapless and pias skirt. Silhouette I is a the details of decoration
silhouette in which the body part is straight but the bottom is
wide or enlarged (Soekarno, 2004: 10). 1) The Upcycling Wedding Gowns Have Decorative Details
That Are Suitable for Wedding Dresses
The development of the bridal gown upcycling II design
before the gown was developed, the silhouette of the old The results of the study of the harmony of the bridal gown
gown was the silhouette of H line. After the development of decoration are seen in terms of the suitability of the details of
the design it was changed to a silhouette Line straight skirt the wedding gown for bridal dresses. It can be seen that; the
section was changed to a half-circle gown with a tail. Line original decoration details of the one wedding gowns are lace
silhouette is a form of clothing variations of various applications on the body part. The details of the two upcycle
silhouettes, can be added in the back with a long shape wedding gowns are beads combined with sequins. Details of
new upcycle wedding gowns use additional lace applications
2) The Attractive Upcycle Wedding Gowns on both pearl and jewels gowns. The details of one upcycle
The results of the study of aspects of wedding dresses wedding dress decoration and two upcycle wedding gowns
upcycling more interesting than the old design, it is known, are appropriate, this is in accordance with Tina Andrea (2009)
Design development pay attention to design elements, that there are 7 types of ornaments used in wedding dresses

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 Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research, volume 390

namely applique, beading, edging, embroidery, jewels, pearls something, by producing higher quality and higher value
and sequins. from the original (Kres and Fry, 2016)
Embellishments on upcycling wedding dresses serve to
beautify wedding gowns, by Elizabeth Shimer (2004: 45)
Plain wedding gowns can be embellished with beads and V. CONCLUSION AND SUGGESTION
other equipment. Beads and embroidery are used to add A. Conclusion
wealth and texture to plain cloth. Small sequins and colorful
gems and gems are sewn to give a decorative impression Based on the results of research and discussion it can be
concluded that.
2) Details of Wedding Gown Embellishments Have
Hardness with Material 1. Wedding gown products ucpcyling I, II in terms of design
development, there are two aspects that are considered
The research results from the aspect of suitability of "very good". Namely the design of upcycle wedding
decorative details for wedding gowns can be seen that, gowns according to the design and design of upcycle
upcycle one wedding gown and two upcycle wedding gowns wedding gowns is more attractive than the old dresses.
use ornaments such as lace, pearls and jewels or gems. The
color of the material used in the bridal gown ucpcyling I, II 2. Wedding gown products ucpcyling I, II, in terms of
tends to be ivory white. This affects the choice of colors for harmony of materials, there are two aspects that are
decoration details used, the color of the decoration used for considered "very good", namely the harmony in the
wedding gowns upcycle one and the wedding gown upcycle combination of materials with the percentage and
two is broken white for pearls and ivory is chosen for consistency of the selection of old material colors.
brocade. an item that is up cycle is designed with high quality 3. Wedding gown products ucplingling I, II, in terms of
and good details will make it unique and irreplaceable decoration details, there are two aspects that are
(Cassidy and Li-Chou, 2013). considered "very good", namely the suitability of
d. Development of results to be an Upcycle wedding dress decorative details for wedding gowns and the harmony of
decorative details with upcycle wedding gowns.
1) Upcycling wedding dress products including dresses that
are up to date 4. The development of bridal gowns ucplingling I, II, there
are two aspects that are considered "very good", namely
The results of the research from the aspect of developing upcycle wedding dresses including up-to-date wedding
the results become upcycle wedding dresses that are reviewed dresses and upcycle wedding gowns that are suitable to
from the bridal gown products including the up to date wear
gowns. The wedding dress that will be on upcycle is a used
dress with conditions that are no longer up to date, damaged B. Suggestion
or torn in some parts. The aim of this upcycle is to use fashion There are a number of things suggested, such as:
that is no longer a trend in fashion that is trendy again. To
cycle wedding gowns, you need to pay attention to the trend 1. It is recommended that before unpacking the wedding
of wedding gowns that are currently in effect, decorations that gown to be upcycle, first learn about the design of old
are suitable for wedding gowns and materials that match the gown, sewing techniques from old dresses, and the
wedding gown. construction of old gown patterns so that when the
workmanship is easier and directed.
Wedding gown upcycling I before being done upcycling
is an A line bridal gown without decoration and there are 2. It is recommended to research upcycle wedding gowns
defects on the back of the dress. After this one wedding dress then use more decorative details for example: sequins,
on upcycle was changed, the dress was changed to a trumpet pearls, brocade
silhouette with ornate details tailored to the wedding gown.
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