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com
HAYNES SERVICE & REPAIR MANUAL
'".

(GPZ600R. GPH600R. nlDJa 600R &

m
ZH750 (GPH750R. ninja 750R)
'85 to '97
.co
es
uid
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all

"Haynes Manuals just cannot be beaten"

M:Jlor C\'CIe News
COLOUR
wiring diagrams
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 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

Kawasaki ZX600 &

750 Fours
Service and Repair Manual
by Bob Henderson
and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered (178()-.260-3Y3)

ZX600A (GPZ600R). 592cc. UK 1985 through 1990
ZX600A (Ninja 600R). 592cc. US 1985 through 1987
ZX600B alumininum frame model (Ninja 600RX). 592cc. US 1987
ZX600C (GPX600R). 592cc. UK 1988 through 1996
ZX600C (Ninja 600R). 592cc. US 1988 through 1997
ZX750F (GPX750A). 748cc. UK 1987 through 1991
ZX750F (Ninja 7S0R). 748cc. US 1987 through 1990

PrInted in the USA

C Hayne. Pubtlahlng 1999 Haynes Publishing
A book In lhe Hayne. Service and Repair Manual Serl" Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset 8A22 7JJ, England
All lights ,....rHd. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted Haynes North America, Inc
In any lorm or by any means, electronic or machanical, including 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA
photoeopyil'lg, rKOrding or by any information ItOf'lllil8 or rwtrieval system,
withotlt pennl,lIon In writing from tIw eopyright holder. Editions Haynes
4, Rue de l'Abreuvoir
ISBN 1 85980 230 4 92415 COURBEVOIE CEDEX, France
Libllory 01 CongrHl Catalog Card Numt:.r 81.12743
Haynes Publi shing Nordiska AS
British Ubrary Cataloguing In Pub~cation o.ta Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSAlA, Sweden
A catalogue record lor this book is a~ailabkllrom the Bntl$h Ubrary.
 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

Contents
LIVING WITH YOUR KAWASAKI

Introduction
Kawasaki - The Green Meanies Page 0·'
Acknowledgements Page 0·7
About this manual Page 0·7
Safety first! Page 0·8
Identification numbers Page 0·.
Buying spare parts Page 0·9

Daily (pre-ride) checks

Engine/transmission oil level Page 0-10
Clutch fluid level (750 models) Page 0-10
Brake fluid levels Page 0-11
Suspension, steering and drive chain Page 0-11
Coolant level Page 0-12
Legal and safety checks Page 0-12
Tyres Page 0-13

MAINTENANCE
Routine maintenance and servicing
Specifications Page '·2
Recommended lubricants and fluids Page '·3
,.,
Component locations
Maintenance schedule
Maintenance procedures
Page
Page
Page
, ..
'·7
 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

Contents
REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL
Engine, transmission and associated systems
Engine, clutch and transmission (BOO models) Page 2A.'
Engine, clutch and transmission (750 models) Page 28-1
Cooling system Page 3·,
Fuel and exhaust systems Page 4·'
Ignition system Page
5·'
Chassis components
Frame, suspension and final drive Page 6·'
Brakes
Wheels
Page
Page 7-10
7·'
Tyres Page 7-13
Fairing and bodywork Page 8·,
Electrical system Page 9·,
Wiring diagrams Page 9·20

REFERENCE
Dimensions and Weights Page REF·1
Tools and Workshop Tips Page REF-2
Conversion Factors Page REF-20
Motorcycle Chemicals and Lubricants Page REF-21
MOT Test Checks Page REF·22
Storage Page REF·26
Fault Finding Page REF-28
Fault Finding Equipment Page REF-36
Technical Terms Explained Page REF·40

Index Page REF-44

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REF-44 Index

Note: Referern;es throughout this index relata to Chapter-page number

Chemicals - REF-21
A Choke cable - 4-11 E
Clutch (600 models) - 1-11, 2A-23
About this Manual· 0-7 Electric Suspension Control System
cables - 2A-26
Acknowledgements· 0-7 (ESCS) - 6-10
Clutch (750 models) - 2S-15, 28-18
Air fiher· '-15, 4-11 Electrical system - 9-1 et seq, REF-22
clutch fluid - 0-10,1-2,1-23 alternator-g-16, 9-17
Air suction valves - ,-a
bleeding -2S-19 battery - 9-2, 9-3
Alternator - '-20, 28-25, 9-16, 9-17
Anti·dive seals - '-23 hoses - 1-24 brake lever - g-7
Anti-dive valve assembly - 6-9 master cylinder - 28-18 brake light - 9-5
Antifreeze - 0-12, '-2, '-20, ,-21 slave cylinder - 28-18 brake light switches - 9-7
Asbestos - o-a Clutch fluid - 0-10, 1-2, 1-23 brake pedal - 9-8
Coils - 5-3, 5-4 brushes - 9-18
B Connecting rods - 2A-29, 2A-31 , 28-22,
28-23
charging - 9-3, 9-15
direction indicators- 9-6, 9-7
Battery· o-a, '-16,9-2,9-3 Conversion factors - REF-20 fault finding - 9-2
Bearings· REF·14 Coolant· 0-12,1-2 fuel gauge - 9-8
Bleeding Coolant pump - 3-9 fuses - 9-3
brakes - 7-10 Coolant reservoir - 3-5 gauges - g-a
clutch - 28-19 Coolant temperature gauge - 3-6 handlebar switches - 9-1 0
Brake fluid - 0-11, '*2, '*23 Cooling fan - 3-5 headlight - 9-5, 9-6
Brakes, wheels and Cooling system - 1-20, 1-21, 3-1 et seq horn - 9-12
tyres - '*12, 7-' ot seq, REF·24 coolant pump - 3-9 ignition main (key) switch - 9-10
bleeding -7-10 coolant res9I'Voir - 3-5 indicators - 9-6, 9_7
brake fiuid - 0-11, '*2, '-23 coolant temperature gauge - 3-6 instruments - g-g
caliper - '-23, 7-2 fan - 3-5 junction box - 9-3
disc(s) - 7-S 011 cooler - 3-10 licence plate light - 9-5
hoses and lines -'-24, 7-9
lever - 9-7
light -' *13, 9-5, 9-7
radiator - 3-8
radiator cap - 3-5
lighting system - 9-5
meters - g-a
neutral indicator light - 9-5
•
switch - 3-5
master cylinder - 7-6, 7-7 temperature gauge - 3-6 neutral switch - 9-10
pads-,·,2,7-3 thermostat - 3-7
numberplate light - 9-5
pedal-I-13, g-a oil pressure sending unit - g-g
thermostat housing - 3-7
plunger unit - 6-9 oil pressure warning light - 9-5
thermostatic fan - 3-5
tyres -7-13 pedal - g-a
water pump - 3-9
wheel bearings - 7-12 regulator/rectifier - 9-17
Crankcase - 2A-27, 2A-28, 28-20, 28-22
wheels - 7-10 sidestand switch - 9-12
wheels alignment check - 7-11
Crankshaft - 2A-29, 28-23 slip rings - 9-18
Break-in procedure - 28-30 Cylinder block - 2A-17, 28-11 speedometer - g-g
Brushes and slip rings - 9-18 Cylinder compression - 1-24 starter motor - 9-13
Cylinder head - 2A-13, 2A-15, 28-9, 28-11
c D
starte!' solenoid - 9-12
stop light - 9-5, 9-7
switches - 9-7, 9-10, 9-12
Cables - 1-18, 2A-26, 4-10, 4-11 tachometer - g-g
Caliper - 1-23, 7-2 Daily (pre-ride) checks - 0-10 et seq taillight - 9-5, 9-7
Camshafts - 2A-8, 2A-9, 2A-35, 28-6, 28-7, Dimensions - REF-l temperature gauge - g-g
28-25 Dlrectlon Indicator tum signal assemblies - 9-6, 9-7
Carburenor - 1-22, 4-3, 4-4, 4-5, 4-8 assemblies - 9-7 voltage regulatorlrectifier - g-17
synchronisation - 1-9 bulbs - 9-6 warning light bulbs - g-g
Centrestand - 6-3 Disc(s) - 7-5 wiring diagrams - 9-19 et seq
Chain - 0-11, 1-7, 1-12, 6-16, REF-18 Drive beH - 1-20 Electricity - o-a
Charging - 9-3, 9-15 Drive chain -1-7, 0-11, 1-12, 6-16, REF-18 Electrolyte - '-16
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Index REF o 45

Engine 1600 models) Fasteners-I- 17, REf- S

camshaft - lA-a, lA-g, 2A- 35 Fault finding - REF- 28 fit seq H
connecting rods - 2A* 29, 2A- 31 electricai systfIITI - 9- 2
crankcase - 2A*27, 2A*28 flngine - S- 2 Handlebar. - 6-3
crankshaft - 2A* 29 Fflnder- a- g, a-l 0 switCh&$; - 9 - 10
cylinder block - 2A· 17 Headlight - g- S
Filter
cylinder head - 2A* 13, 2A*15 air - I- IS, 4- 11 aim - 9-6, REF- 22
main bearings - 2A. 29 luel-I - 19 bulb - 9-5
oil pan - 2A- 21 oil-I - 14
Hom - 9- 12
oil pressure relief valve - 2A* 23 Hoses -' - 23, 1- 24, 7- 9, REF- 19
Final drive - REF - 23
011 pump - 2A-22 Footpegs - 6 -3
Piston rings - 2A- 20
pistons - 2A* 18
ForlI; oil- ' -2, ' . 21
Forks - 6. 4 I
removal and installation - 2A. 4 Frame, suspension and I/na/ drive-
rocker arms - 2A· 12 Ie IgnHer - 5- S
6. 1 at seq Idle m ixture adjustment - 4- 3
starter motor - 2A* 34 anti-dive valve assembly - 6- 9 ,-g5-'

m
sump - 2A- 21 Idle speed -
brake plunger unit - 6- 9 Ignition system - et seq
valve cover - ZA - ? centrestand - 6- 3
valves - 2A* 14, 2A-I S colis - 5- 3, S- 4
chain - 6-' 6 fault finding - 5- 2
Engine (750 models) ElectriC Suspension Control Systam (Escs)
alternator - 28- 25
Ie Igniter - 5- S
- 6-10 main (key) switch - 9- 10
break-In procedure - 26* 30 footpegs - 6-3

.co
camshaft - 28- 6, 2S- 7, 28-25 misfire - 5- 2
forKs - 6· 4 Indicators
connecting rods - 2S- 22, 2S* 23 frame - 6- 2, 6· 3
crankcase - 28*20, 28- 22 assemblies·9- 7
handlebars - 6· 3 bulbs - g. e
crankshaft - 28- 23
rocker ann - 6·' 2 Instruments
cylinder block - 2B- l1 rubber damper - e- 17
cylinder head - 28-9, 2B- l1 bulbs - 9-9
shock absorber - 6- 12 cluster - 9-8
main bearings - 28*22, 28*23
side stand - 6- 3
oil pan - 28* 12
sprockets - 6.' 6
011 pressure relief valve - 28 - 14
011 pump - 2a*1 3
steering head bearings - 6· 10 J
es
suspension linkage - e -1 2
piston rings - 28- 12
pistons - 28- 12
swingarm - e- IS Junction box - 9- 3
tia-rod - 6- 12
removal and installation - 28*4
uni-trak - 6- 12
rocker arms - 2B. 7
running-In procedure - 28*30
wheel coupling - 6- 17 K
Fuel and exhaust systems-
starter - 28*25, 2S*23, 2S. 24
' · '9,4·' atseq Knee grip COYilf'S - a· 9
sump - 28- 12
valve cover - 2S- 6 air finer-4· "
uid

cable - 4· 1,
valves - 28· "
Engine fautt finding - S. 2 cables -4 - 10 L
carburetlors - 4. 3, 4- 4, 4-5, 4-8
Engine o il - 1. 2, 0.' 0, 1· 14 Legal checks - 0. ,2
Engine, clutc h and transmission choke cabla - 4- 11
exhaust system - 4- 13 Ucence plate light - 9. 5
(600 models) - 2A.l at seq Ughtlng system - 9- S
Englna, clutch and transmission filter- I-1 9
Lubrication - 1- 13, REF- 21
(750modfl/s) - 28.1 at seq fuel level adjustment - 4_9
EvaporativfI flmission controi fuel level S8flSOf - g- g
system -'·'0 fuel tank - 4- 3 M
-g

Exhaust system - ' . '7, 4 . '3, REF· 23 gauge - g- a

hoses -' · 23 Main bearings - 2A- 29, 28· 22, 28- 23
Idle mixture adjustment - 4. 3 Maintenance schedute - 1.6
mixture adjustment - 4- 3 M aster cylinder - 1.23, 28-1 8, 7. 6, 7-7
throttle cables - 4 - 10 Met.,.. - g- a
throttle grip· 4- 10 Misfire - 5- 2
F Fumfls - o·a Mixture adjustment - 4- 3
all

Fuses - 9· 3 MOT test cheeks - REF- 22 et seq

Fairing and bodyworlc - a-I et seq brakes - REF-24
fairing - 8- 8 electrical system - REF -22
fairing stays - a- g exhaust - REF - 23
fendS!" - 8- 9, 8. 10 final drive - REF - 23
knee grip COVefS - a. g G headlight beam height - REF - 22
sidecars - REF . 25
mudguard - 8- 9, 8· 10
seat - 8· '0 Gaskets - REF- 17 steering - REF . 23
side COVefS - 8 - 9 Gauges -9· 8 suspension - REF . 23
tailpiecfl - 8- 10 Gear shift mechanism - 2A- 26, 28· '9 tyres - REF - 24
windshlflld - 8. 9 Gearbox oil - 0- 10,1 - 2 wheels - REF - 24
Fan - 3-S Glossary - REF· 40 at seq Mudguard - a- g, a- l0
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REFo46 Index
N s Throttle grip - 4-10
Tie-rod - 6-12
Tools snd worlcshop tips - REF-2 at seq
Neutral indicator light - 905 Safety first! - ooa, 0.12 Torque - REF-13
Neutral switch - 9 0 10 Sealants - REFo17 Transmission (BOO models)
Numberplate light - 90S Seals -,023, REF-16
Seat - a-lO
gear shift mechanism - 2A-26
•
o Shock absorber - 6-12
Side covers - a-g
Sidestand - 6-3
primary chain - 2A-35
secondary sprocket - 2A-33
shafts - 2A-35, 2A-36
Oilcooler-3010 Transmission (750 models)
switch - 9-12
Oilfitter-'·14 gear shift mechanism - 2S-1g
Sidecars - REF-25 shafts - 2S-25, 2S-26
Oil pan - 2Ao21 , 28.12 Slave cylinder - 2B-18
Transmission oil- a-la, 1-2
all pressure relief valve - 2Ao23, 28.14 Spark plugs - 1-a, '-20
Transmission shafts - 2A-35, 2A-36
l
all pressure Specific gravity - 1-16
sending unit - gog Tum signal
Speedometer - 9-9 assemblies - g-7
warning light - 905 Sprockets -1-12, 6-16
all pump - 2Ao22, 2S.13 bulbs - 9-6
Starter motor - 2A-34, 28-23, 2S-24,
Tyre pressures - 0-13, 1-2
Oil seals -'.23, REF.16 2S-25, 9-13
Tyres - 0-13, 1-16, 7-13, REF-24
Oil
engine/transmission - 0.'0, '02, ,.14
fOrK-,02, 1021
Starter motor clutch· 2A-33
Starter solenoid· 9-12
Steering - 0-11, REF-23 u •
Steering head - '-23 Unl-Trak - 6-12
p bearings - 1-15, 6-10
Stoplight - 1-13, 9-5
linkage - 1-20

Pads ,'.12, 703, goa

Pedals -'.13
switches - 9-7
Storage - REF-26 v
Sump - 2A-21 , 2S-12
Pickup coils - 50 4 Valves - 2A-14, 2A-15, 2S-11
Suspension - 0-11, 1-24, REF-23
Piston rings - 2Ao20, 28.12 clearances -'-17
Suspension linkage (Uni-Trak) - 6-12
Pistons - 2Ao18, 28.12 Swing arm - 1-20, 6-15
cover - 2A-7, 2S-6 •
Voltage regulator/rectifier - 9-17
Switches -1-13, 3-5, 9-7, 9-1O, 9-'2
R
T
w
Radiator - 308 Warning light bulbs - g-g
cap - 305 Water pump - 3-9
Tachometer - 9-9
Recommended break-in Taillight - 9-5 Weights - REF-1
procedure - 2Ao39, 28030 bulbs - 9-7 Wheels ·1-16, 7-10, REF-24
Reference - REF-, at seq Taitplece - a-1 a bearings - 1-23, 7-12
Regulator/rectifier - go17 Technical terms explained - REF-40 et seq coupling - 6-17
Rocker arms - 2Ao12, 2S07 Temperature gauge - 3-6, g-g Wheels alignment check -7-11
Routine maintenance and Thermostat - 3-7 Windshield - 8-9
servicing - ,., at seq housing - 3-7 Wiring diagrams - g-1g et seq 1
Rubber damper - 6 0 17 Thermostatic fan - 3-5 Workshop - REF-4
Running-in procedure - 2Ao39, 2S030 Throttle cables - 1-18,4-10 tips - REF-2

I
C

I
I

•
•
 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

Kawasaki ZX600 &

750 Fours
Service and Repair Manual
by Bob Henderson
and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered (178()-.260-3Y3)

ZX600A (GPZ600R). 592cc. UK 1985 through 1990
ZX600A (Ninja 600R). 592cc. US 1985 through 1987
ZX600B alumininum frame model (Ninja 600RX). 592cc. US 1987
ZX600C (GPX600R). 592cc. UK 1988 through 1996
ZX600C (Ninja 600R). 592cc. US 1988 through 1997
ZX750F (GPX750A). 748cc. UK 1987 through 1991
ZX750F (Ninja 7S0R). 748cc. US 1987 through 1990

PrInted in the USA

C Hayne. Pubtlahlng 1999 Haynes Publishing
A book In lhe Hayne. Service and Repair Manual Serl" Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset 8A22 7JJ, England
All lights ,....rHd. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted Haynes North America, Inc
In any lorm or by any means, electronic or machanical, including 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA
photoeopyil'lg, rKOrding or by any information ItOf'lllil8 or rwtrieval system,
withotlt pennl,lIon In writing from tIw eopyright holder. Editions Haynes
4, Rue de l'Abreuvoir
ISBN 1 85980 230 4 92415 COURBEVOIE CEDEX, France
Libllory 01 CongrHl Catalog Card Numt:.r 81.12743
Haynes Publi shing Nordiska AS
British Ubrary Cataloguing In Pub~cation o.ta Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSAlA, Sweden
A catalogue record lor this book is a~ailabkllrom the Bntl$h Ubrary.
 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

Contents
LIVING WITH YOUR KAWASAKI

Introduction
Kawasaki - The Green Meanies Page 0·'
Acknowledgements Page 0·7
About this manual Page 0·7
Safety first! Page 0·8
Identification numbers Page 0·.
Buying spare parts Page 0·9

Daily (pre-ride) checks

Engine/transmission oil level Page 0-10
Clutch fluid level (750 models) Page 0-10
Brake fluid levels Page 0-11
Suspension, steering and drive chain Page 0-11
Coolant level Page 0-12
Legal and safety checks Page 0-12
Tyres Page 0-13

MAINTENANCE
Routine maintenance and servicing
Specifications Page '·2
Recommended lubricants and fluids Page '·3
,.,
Component locations
Maintenance schedule
Maintenance procedures
Page
Page
Page
, ..
'·7
 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

Contents
REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL
Engine, transmission and associated systems
Engine, clutch and transmission (BOO models) Page 2A.'
Engine, clutch and transmission (750 models) Page 28-1
Cooling system Page 3·,
Fuel and exhaust systems Page 4·'
Ignition system Page
5·'
Chassis components
Frame, suspension and final drive Page 6·'
Brakes
Wheels
Page
Page 7-10
7·'
Tyres Page 7-13
Fairing and bodywork Page 8·,
Electrical system Page 9·,
Wiring diagrams Page 9·20

REFERENCE
Dimensions and Weights Page REF·1
Tools and Workshop Tips Page REF-2
Conversion Factors Page REF-20
Motorcycle Chemicals and Lubricants Page REF-21
MOT Test Checks Page REF·22
Storage Page REF·26
Fault Finding Page REF-28
Fault Finding Equipment Page REF-36
Technical Terms Explained Page REF·40

Index Page REF-44

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0-4 Introduction
experience to bear first on engines which

Kawasaki were sold on to a number of manufacturers as

original equipment. 80th two- and four-stroke
units were made, a 58 cc and 148 cc OHC
unit. One of the customer companies was

The Green Meanies

Meihatsu Heavy Industries, another company
within the Kawasaki group, which in 1961 was
shaken up and renamed Kawasaki Auto
Sales, At the same time, the Akashi factory
which was to be Kawasaki's main production
facility until the Kobe earthquake of 1995, was
opened, Shorlly afterwards, Kawasaki took
by Julian Ryder over the ailing Meguro company, Japan's
oldest motorcycle maker, thus instantly
obtaining a range of bigger bikes which were
Kawasaki Heavy Industries realistical ly, it may be that Kawasaki's

m
marketed as Kawasaki-Meguros, The
designers have experience with techniques
wasaki is a company of contradictions. following year, the first bike to be made and

K: It Is the smallest of the big four

apanase manufacturers but the
biggest company, it was the last of the four to
and materials from other engineering
disciplines, Either way, Kawasaki have
managed to be the factory who surprise us
more than the rest, Quite often, they do this
sold as a Kawasaki was produced, a 125 cc
single called the 88 and in 1963 a motocross
version, the 88M appeared,
make and markel motorcycles yet it owns the
by totally ignoring a market segment the Model development

.co
oldest name in the Japanese Industry. and it
was the first to sel up a factory in the USA. others are scrabbling over, but more often

~
wasaki's first appearance on a road-
Kawasaki Heavy Industries, of which the they hit us w ith pure, undiluted performance, race circuit came in 1965 with a batch of
motorcycle operation is but a small The origins of the company, and its name, isc-valve 125 tWins, They were no
component, is a massive company with its go back to 1878 when Shozo Kawasaki set up match for the opposition from Japan in the
heritage firmly in the old heavy industries like a dockyard in Tokyo, 8y the late 1930s, the shape of Suzuki and Yamaha or for the fading
shipbuilding and ra ilways; nowadays it is as company was making its own steel in massive force of the factory MZs from East Germany,
much Involved in aerospace as In steelworks and manufacturing railway locos Only after the other Japanese factories had
motorcycles. and rolling stock, In the run up to war, the pulled out of the class did Kawasaki win, With
In fact it may be because of this that Kawasaki Aircraft Company was set up in 8ritish rider Dave Simmonds becoming World
es
Kawasaki's motorcycles have always been 1937 and it was this arm of the now giant 125 GP Champion in 1969 on a bike that
quirky, you get the impression that they are operation that would look to motorcycle looked astonishingly similar to the original
designed by a small group of enthusiasts who engine manufacture in post-war Japan, racer, That same year Kawasaki reorganised
are given an admirably free hand, More They bought their high-technology once again, this time merging three
uid
-g
all

The H1 three cylinder two-stroke 500

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Introduction 0- 5
companies to form Kawasaki Heavy
Industries. One of the new organisation's
objectives was to take motorcycle production
forward and exploit markets outside Japan.
KHI achieved that target immediately and
sel out their stall for the future with the
astonishing and frightening HI. This three-
cylinder air-cooled 500 cc two-stroke was
arguably the first modern pure performance
bike to hit the market. It hypnotised a who le
generation of motorcyclists who'd never
before encountered such a ferocious, wheelie
inducing power band or such shattering
straight-line speed allied to questionable
handling. And as for the 750 cc version "'_
The triples perfectly suited the late '60s,
fitting in well with the student demonstrations
of 1968 and the anti-establishment ethos of
the Summer of Love. Unfortunately, the 011
crisis would put an end to the thirsty strokers
but Kawasaki had another high-performance
ace up their corporate sleeve. Or rather they
thought they did.
The 1968 Tokyo Show saw probably the
single most significant new motorcycle ever
made unveiled: the Honda CB750. At
Kawasaki it caused a major shock, for they The first Superbike, Kawasaki'S 900 cc Z1
also had a 750 cc four, code-named New
York Steak, almost ready to roll and it was a the Z1 went on to found a dynasty, indeed its stroke. The bikes are obviously very different
double, rather than single, overhead cam genes can still be detected in Kawasaki's but it's difficult to put your finger on exactly
motor. Bravely, they took the decision to go latest products like the ZZ-R1100 (Ninja ZX- why.
ahead - but with the motor taken out to 900 11). Other models have remained effectively
cc. The result was the ZI, unveiled at the This is another characteristic of the way untouched for over a decade: the KH and KE
1972 Cologne Shaw. It was a bike straight out Kawasaki operates. Models quite often have single-cylinder air-cooled two-stroke learner
of the same mould as the H1, scare stories very long lives, or gradually evolve. There is bikes, the GT550 and 750 Shaft-drive hacks
spread about unmanageable power, dubious no major difference between that first Z1 and favoured by big city despatch riders and the
straight-line stability and frightening handling, the air-cooled GPz range. Add water-cooling GPz305 being prime examples. It's only when
none of which stopped the sales graph and you have Ihe GPZ900, which in turn they step outside the performance field that
rocketing upwards and led to the coining of metamorphosed into the GPZ1000RX and Kawasakis seems less sure. Their first factory
the term 'superbike'. While rising fuel prices then the ZX-10 and the ZZ-Rl1oo.lndeed, the customs were dire, you simply got the
cut short development of the big two-strokes, last three models share the same 58 mm impression that the team that designed them
didn't have their heart In the job. Only when
the Classic range appeared in 1995 did they
get it right.

Racing success
awasaki also have a more focused

K approach to racing than the other

factories. The policy has always been to
race the road bikes and with just a couple of
exceptions that's what they've done. Even
Simmonds' championship winner bore a
strong resemblance to the twins they were
selling in the late '60s and racing versions of
the 500 and 750 cc triples were also sold as
over-the-counter racers, the HIR and H2R.
The 500 was in the forefront of the two-stroke
assault on MV Agusta but wasn't a Grand Prix
winner. It was the 750 that made the impact
and carried the factory's image in F750 racing
against the Suzuki triples and Yamaha fours.
The factory's decision to use green, usually
regarded as an unlucky colour in sport, meant
its bikes and personnel stood out and the
phrase 'Green Meanies' fitted them perfectly.
The ZI motor soon became a lull 1000 cc and
powered Kawasaki's assault in F1 racing,
One of the two-stroke engined KH and KE range - the KH125EX notably in endurance which Kawasaki saw as
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00 6 Introduction

The GT750 • a favo urite hack for despatch r iders

being most closely related to its road bikes. and tumed the bike into a classic in its model Japan, you find that it is no such thing. II is the
That didn't stop them dominating 250 and life. You could even argue that the Z1 lives on Zephyr boom. Just another example of
350 cc GPs with a tandem twin two-stroke in in the shape of the 1100 Zephyr's GPz11 00- Japan's most surprising
the late '70s and early '80s, but their path- derived motor. And thaI's another Kawasaki motorcycle
breaking monocoque 500 while a race winner invention, the retro bike. But when you look manufacturer
never won a world litle. When Superbike at what many commentators refer to as getting it
arrived, Kawasaki's road 750s weren't as t he relro boom, especially in right again.
track-friendly as the opposition's oul-and-out
race replicas. This makes Scott Russell's
World title on the ZXR750 in 1993 even
more praiseworthy, for the
homologation bike, the ZXR750RR, was
much heavier and much more of a road
bike than the Italian and Japanese
competition.
The company's Supersport 600
contenders have similarly been
more sports-tourers than race-
replicas, yet they too have been
competitive on the track. Indeed,
the flagship bike, the ZZ-R1100, Is
most definitely a sports tourer
capable of carrying two people and
their luggage at high speed in comfort
all day and then doing it again the next
day. Try that on one of the race replicas
and you'll be in need of a course of
treatment from a chiropractor.
Through doing it their way Kawasaki
developed a brand loyalty for their
performance bikes that kept the Z1 's
derivatives in production until the mid-'80s
The high-performance ZXR750
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Introduction 0· 7

The ZX600 and 750 Fours Kawasaki ZX600C

or a first go, the ZX600A (GPZ600R in

F the UK, Ninja 60DR in the US) wasn't

bad. In fact it was marvelous. Up until
ils introduction in 1985, Kawasaki had
never made a water-cooled bike. Their air-
cooled ZX models (note the lower-case
'zed' in the UK GPz designation denoting
air cooling. a capital means liquid
cooled) middleweights had ruled the
roost since the start of the decade,
advancing through the usual
Kawasaki progression of naked
twin-shock bike, naked
monoshocker, then growing a
bikini fairing, a half fairing and a
full fairing in successive years.
The ZX600A, though. hit the
ground running as a fully-enclosed
water-cooled bike with the full set
of mid '80s trickery including a 16-
inch front wheel and suspension
equipped with anti-dive and adjustable air buckets over the top of focused, but by the
pressure and damping. Critically, it was a year the valve stem. The new design allowed time it hit the market it had the CBR600 to
ahead of the Honda CBR600 and swept all the inlet tracts to be straightened out. deal with.
before it in the middleweight sales stakes. Externally, the ZX600G was slimmer and a The bigger ZX750F (GPX750R in the UK,
Nevertheless, there were two sets of lot easier on the eyes than the ZX600A, Ninja 750R in the US) had similar problems as
modifications; the first was a new set of disc although that pearlescent white paintwork it tried to make up for the flop that was the
brakes for the A4 model of 1988, the second a does look a lillie dated in the late '90s! ZX750G (GPZ750R), only more of them; the
major reworking of engine internals for the A5 Naturally, Kawasaki added loads of lightness, FZ, VFR and GSX-R 750s. This time the new
of 1989 which increased power by 9% and bring it down a Whopping 25 kg to 180 kg but bike wasn't a derivation of a previous model
peak torque by 13%. This didn't really do didn't go with the trend back to bigger wheals as the brand new 68 x 51.5 mm bore and
much for sales as by then the modern 6005 sean on the competition, giving it a 16-incher stroke show, dimensions which, incidentally,
had arrived. at the back as well as the fronl. It had the full were carried over to the ZXR750. Externally it
The ZX600A's chassis package was all new set of '805 high-tech but the electronic anti- looked so like the 600 that it was difficult to
but the motor was based around the old 52.4 dive system (ESGS) was quietly dropped on know which was which without looking at the
mm stroke of the GPz550 with the bore taken later models. The character of the bikes were decals. The 18-inch rear wheel on the 750
out 2 mm to 60 mm, another typical piece of very similar; both needed to be revved and was a visual clue, though. It rode like the
Kawasaki evolution. As was the ZX600C worked hard to get the best out of them, smaller bikes, too, with a pronounced
model (GPX6OQR in the UK, Ninja 600R in the although there is no doubt that the ZX600C reluctance to do anything In the low or mid-
US) which arrived in 1988. The engine - at the doesn't Just look more modern, it goes that range followed by a manic rush at the top end.
bottom end at least - was the same as the way, too. The chassis seemed to tighten up when you
ZX600A but up top the drive for inlet efficiency The ZX600A now looks like a 50ft all hit the power and what seemed like a soft,
led the valves to be operated by short rocker rounder but in its day it was a cutting edge gutless bike in town turned into a rev hound
arms pivoting in ball and pillow mountings as sportster. The ZX600C was much harsher when you hit the open road; all the classic
opposed to the cam lobes operating on (especially the rear suspension) and more characteristics of a sporty KawasakI.

Acknowledgements About this Manual shop must pass on to you to cover Its labour
and overhead costs. An added benefit is the
ur thanks are due to Kawasaki Motors he aim of this manual is to help you gel

O (UK) Ltd for permission to reproduce

certain illustrations used In this
manual. We would also like to thank the Avon
T the best value from your motorcycle. It
can do so in several ways. It can help
you decide what work must be done, even if
sense of satisfaction and accomplishment
that you feal after doing the job yourself.
References to the left or right side of the
motorcycle assume you are sitting on the
Rubber Company, who kindly supplied you choose to have it done by a dealer: it
seat, facing forward .
Information and technical assistance on tyre provides information and procedures for
fitting, and NGK Spark plugs (UK) Ltd for routine maintenance and servicing; and It We take great pride in the accuracy of
information on spark plug maintenance and offers diagnostic and repair procedures to information given in this manual, but
electrode conditions. follow when trouble occurs. motorcycle manufacturers make
Thanks are also due to the Kawasaki We hope you use the manual to tackle the alterations and design changes during the
Information Service and Kel Edge for work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it production run of a particular motorcycle
supplying colour transparencies. The main yourself may be quicker than arranging an of which they do not inform us. No liability
front cover photograph was taken by Phil appointment to get the motorcycle into a can be accepted by the authors or
Flowers. The Introduction, "Kawasaki - dealer and making the trips to leave it and publishers for loss, damage or injury
The Green Meanies" was written by Julian pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money caused by any errors in, or omissions from,
Ryder. can be saved by avoiding the expense the the information given.
 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

o· s Safety first!
Professional mechanics are trained in safe • Always disconnect the battery earth • Always disconnect the battery ground
work ing procedures. However enthusiastic terminal before working on any part of the fuel (earth) terminal before working on the fuel or
you may be about getting on with the job al or electrical system, and never risk spil ling electrical systems (except where noted),
hand, take the time to ensure that your safety fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. • If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover
IS not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention • tt is recommended that a fire extinguisher when charging the battery from an external
can result in an accident, as can failure to of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is source, Do not charge at an excessive rate or
observe simple precautions. kept handy in the garage or workplace at all the battery may burst.
There will always be new ways of having times, Never try to extinguish a fuel or • Take care when topping up, cleaning or
accidents, and the following is not a electrical fire with water, carrying the battery, The acid electrolyte,
comprehensive list of all dangers; it is evenwhen diluted, is very corrosive and
intended rather to make you aware of the risks Fumes should not be allowed to contact the eyes or
and to encourage a safe approach to all work • Certain fumes are highly toxic and can skin, Always wear rubber gloves and goggles
you carry out on your bike. qu ickly cause unconsciousness and even or a face shield, If you ever need to prepare
death if inhaled to any extent, Petrol vapour electrolyte yourself, always add the acid
Asbestos comes into this category, as do the vapours slowly to the water; never add the water to the
• Certain friction. insulating, sealing and from certain solvents such as trichloro- acid,
other products - such as brake pads, clutch ethylene, Any draining or pouring of such
linings, gaskets. etc. - contain asbestos. volatile fluids should be done in a wel l Electricity
Extreme care must be taken to avoid ventilated area, • When using an electric power tool,
Inhalation of dust from such products since it • When using cleaning fluids and solvents, inspection light etc" always ensure that the
is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume read the instructions carefully, Never use appliance is correctly connected to its plug
that they do contain asbestos. materials from unmarked containers - they and that, where necessary, it is properly
may give off poisonous vapours, grounded (earthed), Do not use such
Fire • Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in appliances in damp conditions and, again,
• Remember at all times that petrol is highly an enclosed space such as a garage, Exhaust beware of creat ing a spark or applying
flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of fumes contain carbon monoxide which is excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel
naked flame around, when working on the extremely poisonous; if you need to run the vapour. Also ensure that the appliances meet
vehicle, But the risk does not end there - a engine, always do so in the open air or at least national safety standards,
spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by have the rear of the vehic le outSide the • A severe electric shock can result from
two metal surfaces contacting each other, by workplace, touching certain parts of the electrical system,
careless use of tools, or even by static such as the spark plug wires (HT leads), when
electricity built up In your body under certain The battery the engine is running or being cranked,
conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in • Never cause a spark, or allow a naked particu lariy if components are damp or the
a confined space is highly explosive, Never light near the vehicle's battery, It wil l normally insulation is defective. Where an electronic
use petrol as a cleaning solvent, Use an be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen ignition system is used, the secondary (HT)
approved safety solvent. gas, which is highly explosive, voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

X Don't rush to finish a job or take ..... Do remove rings, wristwatch etc., before
Remember ... unverified short cuts. working on the vehicle - especially t he
It Don't allow child ren or animals in or electricai system.
x Don't start the engine without first around an unattended vehicle.
ascertaining that the transmission is in tI Do keep your work area ti dy· it is only
X Don't Inflate a tyre above th e too easy to fall over articles left lying
neutral. recommended pressure. Apart from
X Don't suddenly remove the pressure cap around.
overstressing the carcass, In extreme cases
from a hot cooling system - cover it with a tI Do exercise caution when compressing
the lyre may blow off forcibly.
cloth and release the pressure gradually first, springs for removal or Installation. Ensure
..... Do ensure that the mact1ine is supported
or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. that the tension is applied and released in a
securely at aU times. This is especialty
It Don't attempt to drain oil until you are controlled manner, using suitable tools
important when the machine is blocked up
sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid which preclude the possibility of the spring
to aid wheal or fOf!<; removal.
scalding you. escaping violently,
It Don 't grasp any part of the engine or
V Do take care when attempting 10 loosen
a stubborn nut or bolt. It Is generally better tI Do ensure that any lifting tackle used has
exhaust system without first ascertaining
that it Is cool enough not to bum you. to pull on a spanner, rather than push, so a safe working load rating adequate for the
X Don't allow brake fluid or antifreeze to that if you slip, you fall away from the job.
contact the machiFle's paintwork or plastic machinE) rather than onto it. tI Do get someone to check periodically
components. V Do wear eye prot ection when using that all is well, when working alone on the
It Don't siphon toxic liquids such as fuel. power tOOls such as drill, sander, bench vehicle.
hydraulic fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or grooer etc. ..... Do carry out work in a logical sequence
allow them to remain on your skin. V Do UM a barrier cream on your hands
and check that everything is correctly
X Don't inhale dust - it may be injurious to prior to undertaking dirty jobs - It will
assembled and tightened afterwards.
health (see Asbestos heading). protect your skin from infection as well as
making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; V Do remember that your vehicle's safety
It Don't allow any spilled oil or grease to
but make sure your hands aren't fell affects that of yourse lf an d others. If In
remain on the floor - wipe it up right away,
before someone slips on it. slippery. Note that long-term contact with doubt on any point, get professtonal advice.
X Don't use iii-fitting spanners or other used engine Oil can be a health hazard. • If in spite of following these precautions,
tools wh ich may slip and cause injury. ..... Do keep loose clothing (cuffs. ties etc. you are unfortunate enough to injure
X Don't lift a heavy component which may and long hair) well out of the way of moving yourself, seek medical attention as soon as
be beyond your capability· get assistance. mechanical parts. possible.
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Identification numbers 0. 9

Frame and engine numbers US models

The frame serial number Is stamped into the US models covered by this manual are as follOWS:
right side of the steering head and the engine ZX600A (Ninja BOOR) ......... .. Al (1985), A2 (1986), A3 (1987)
serial number is stamped Into the right engine ZX600B - Aluminum frame model . Bl (1987)
case. Both of these numbers should be ZX600C (Ninja 600R) • Cl (1968), C2 (1989), C3 (1990), C4 (1991),
recorded and kept in a safe place so they can C5 (1992). C6 (1993). C7 (1994), C8 (1995),
be furnished to law enforcement officials In C9 (1996), Cl0 (1997)
the event of theft. ZX750F (N'nja 7saR) Fl (1987), F2 (1988), F3 (1989), F4 (1990)
The frame serial number. engine serial
number and carburetor identification number UK ZX600 A models (GPZ600R):
should also be kepi in a handy place (such as Year MOdel Code Initial frame number Initial engine number
with your driver's licence) so they are always 1985 ZX600 A 1 ZX6OOA-000001 on ZX600AEOOOOOI on
available when purchasing or ordering parts 1986 ZX600 A2 ZX6QOA·025001 on ZX600AE025001 on
lor your machine. 1987 ZX600 A3 ZX6OOA-Q46001on ZX600AE052040 on
1968 ZX600 A4/MA ZX6OOA..05400t on ZX6OOZE052{)4() on
1989/90 ZX600 A!SIASA ZX6OOA·055801 on ZX6OOAE069501 on

m
UK ZX600 C models (GPXSOOR):
Year MOdel Code Initial frame number Initial engine number
1988 ZX600 C1 ZX600C-OOOOOlon ZX600AE052040 on
1989 ZXSOOC2 ZX600C-Ol1SOlon ZX600AE069501 on
1990-92 ZX600 C3 ZX600C..QI9001 on ZX6OOAf069501 on

.co
1993 ZX600 C6 ZXeooc.eooool on ZXSOOAE069501 on
1994-96 ZX600C7 ZX6OOC-6015510n ZXSOOAE069501 on

UK ZX750F models (GPX750R):

Year Model Code Initial frame number Initial engine number
1987 ZX750 Fl ZX750F·OOOOOI to 016200 ZX750FEOOOOOt to 018000
1988 ZX750 F2 ZX750F-016201100202oo ZX750FE01800t 10024000
1989-91 ZX750 F3 ZX750F-020201 on ZX750FE02400t on
The frame number Is stamped on the right
side of the steering head
es
uid
-g

The engine number (arrow) is stamped Into

the top of the crankcase, just inboard of
the cover
all

Buying spare parts componeot can be made. Along the trail from brake parts, etc. Rarely will an accessory
the manufacturer 10 the parts shelf, there are outlet have major suspension components,
Once you have found all Ihe IdentificatIon
numerous places that the part can end up with cytinders. transmiSSion gears, or cases.
numbers. record them for reference when
the wrong number or be listed iocolTeclly. Used parts can be obtained for roughly half
buying parts. Since the manufacturers change The two places to purchase new parts fOl" the price of new ones. but you can't always be
specifications, parts and vendors (companies your motorcycle· the accessory stOl"e and the sure of what you're getting. Once aga,n, take
that manufacture various components on the franchised dealer· diller in the type of parts your worn part to the breaker (wrecking yard)
machine), providing the 10 numbers is the only they carry. While dealers can obtain virtually for direct comparison.
way to be reaSOflBbly sure that you ara buying ev9fy part for your motorcycle, the accessory Whether buying new, used or rebuilt parts,
the correct parts. dealer is usually limited to nOflTlal high wear the best course Is to deal directly With
Whenever possible, take the worn part to items such as shock absorbers. tune-up someone who specialises in parts for your
the dealer so dlrecl comparison With the new parts, various engine gaskets, cables. chains. particular make.
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0-1 0 Daily (pre-ride) checks

1 Engine/transmission oil level
Before you start: v'The oil level is viewed through the window
'" Take the motorcycle on a short run to allow In Ihe clutch cover on the righi-hand side of
It to reach normal operating temperature. the engine. Wipe Ihe glass clean before
Inspection to make the check easier.
Caution: Do not run the engine in 8n
enclosed space such as a garage or shop. Bike care:
'" Stop the engine and support the • If you have to add oil frequently, you should
motorcycle In an upright position on level check whether you have any oil leaks. If there
ground. Position the motorcycle on its Is no sign of 011 leakage from the joints and
ceotrestand. Allow it to stand undisturbed lor gaskets the engine could be burning oil (see
five ffiloules to allow Ihe oil level 10 stabilise. Fault Finding). 1 The oil level should lie between Ihe MAX
and MIN level lines on the window

The correct oil

• Modem, high-revving IH1gines place great
demands on their oil. It is very important
that the correct oil for your bjke is used,
• Always top up with a good quality 011 of
the specified type and viSCOSity and do not
OyertJII the engine.

"'.",. API grade SG

Oil visecnlty
Cold d,mates SAE lOWf40 or lOW/50
SAE 20Wf40 or 20W/5O
3 ...
Warm climates If the level is below the MIN line, remove and top up with the recommended
2 the filler cap from the top of the clutch
cover ...
grade and type of oil, to bfing the level up
to the MAX line on the window.

2 Clutch fluid level (750 models)

Wamlng: Brake and clutch ." Make sure you have the correct hydraulic

A ,
•
hydraulic fluid can hann your
eyes and damage painted
surlaces., so use extreme
caution whfNJ handling and pouring it. Do
Huid. DOT 4 is recommended.

Bike care:
• If the fluid reservoir requires repeated
not use fluid that has been standing Op6n topping-up this is an Indication of an hydraulic
for some time, as it absorbs moisture from leak somewhere In the system, which should
the sir which can cause a loss of clutch be investigated immediately.
effectiveness. • Check for signs of fluid leakage from the
hydraulic hoses and components - If found,
Before you start: rectify immediately.
." PoSition the motorcycle on Its centrestand
and turn the handlebars until the top 01 the
• Check the operation of the clutch; if there is
evidence of air In the system (spongy feel to 1 Clutch fluid level is checked via
sightglass - It must be above LOWER
master cylinder IS as level as possible. lever), it must be bled (Chapter 28). level mark(arrow).

Top up with new clean hydraulic Huid of

Remove the two screws to free the the recommended type so that the level Ensure thai the diaphragm Is correctly
2 reservoir cap. is above the LOWER level mark. Take 4 folded before Installing the cover.
care to avoid spills (see Wam lng above).
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Daily (pre-ride) checks D."

3 Brake fluid levels
Wamlng: Brake and clutc h Bike care:
AI hydraulic fluid can harm your • The fluid in the front and rear brak:e master • Check: for signs of fluid leak:age from the
~ eyes and damage painted cylinder reser .... oirs will drop slightly as the hydraulic hoses and components - If found,
s urfaces, so use extreme brak:e pads wear down. Remo .... e the right side rectify Immediately.
ca ution when handling Bnd co .... er for access to the rear brak:e fluid • Check: the operation of both brak:es before
pouring it Bnd cover surrounding surfaces reservoir. tak:ing the machine on the road; if there is
with rag. Do not use fluid that has been • If either fluid reservoir requires repeated e ....idence of air In the system (spongy feel to
standing open for some time, as It ab sorbs topping-up thiS is an indication of an hydraulic le....er or pedaQ, It must be bled as described In
moisture from the air which can cause a leal<; somewhere in the system. which should Chapter 7.
dangerous /0$$ of braking effectivene"- be inlJeStigated immediately.

Before you start:

." Position the motOfcycle on Its centrestand,
and turn the handlebars until the top of the
Iront brake master cylinder Is as level as
possible. Remove the right side cover (see
Chapter 8) to access the rear brake fluid
reservoir.
". Make sure you have the correct hydraulic
fluid· DOT 4 is recommended. Wrap a rag
around the reservoir being worked on to
ensure that any spillage does not come into
contact with painted surfaces.
1 the
The front brak:e flUid le'lel is check:ed via
sightglass In the reservoir - it must be 2 If the le .... el is below the LOWER level
marll;, remo .... e the two screws (arrows) to
atxNe the LOWER le.... el marll; (arrow). free the reservoir cover, theo remo .... e the
cover, and diaphragm.

3 Top up with new clean hydraulic fluid of

the recommended type, until the level Is 4 Ensure that the diaphragm is correctly
seated before Installing the co .... er. 5 The rear brak:e fluid le .... el can be seen
through the translucent body of the
abo .... e the LOWER mark:. Tak:e care to reservoir. The fluid must lie between the
avoid spills (see W aming above). LOWER and UPPER level mark:s. Top up as
described for the !root reservoir.

4 Suspension, steering and drive chain

Suspension and Steering: Drive chain:
• Check: that the front and rear suspension operates smoothly without • Check: that the d rive chain slack: isn't e)(cessi .... e, and adjust if
binding. necessary (see Chapter 1),
• Check that the suspension is adjusted as required. . If the chain looks dry, lubricate It (see Chapter 1),
• Check that the steering moves smoothly from Iock:-to-Iock.
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0'12 Daily (pre-ride) checks

5 Coolant level
Waming: DO NOT remove the II' Place the motorcycle on its centrestand • 00 not overfill the reservoir tank, If the

.& ,
•
radiator pressure cap to lKkJ
coo/ant. Topping up is done lila
the coo/ant reservoir tank fil/er.
DO NOT leave open conte/nttrS of coolant
whilst checking the level. Make sure the
motorcycle is on level ground,
ttl Make sure the engIne IS cOld. Do not
perlorm this check just after the engine has
coolant IS significantly above the upper line at
any time, the surplus coolant should be
siphoned off to prevent it from being expelled
out 01 the bteather hose when the engine is
about, as It Is poisonous. been run. running .
• 1' the coolant level falls steadily, check the
Bike care: system 'Of' leaks as descnbed in Chapter 1. II
Before you start: • Use only the specified coolant mixture, It Is no leaks are found and the level still coollnues
..... Make sure you have a supply of coolant important that antifreeze is used In the cooling to fall, II is recommended that the machine be
available (a millture of 50% sotl water and system all year round, not just during the taken to a Kawasaki dealer who will pressure
50% corrosion Inhibited ethylene glycol winter months. Don" top-up with waler alone, test the system.
antifreeze is needed), as the antifreeze will become 100 diluted.

ZX600A and B models check coolant On ZX750F models check coolant level
1 On
level through the slot In the lower fairing. 2 On ZX600C models tum the hancfIebars to
the right and look Into the left side of the 3 through window in the right inner falnng.
level shOl.lld lie between lower mark (1) upper fairing to check Ihe coolant level. level of coolant in tank (1) should lie
and full mark (2). Top up via filler cap (3). View level through WindOW (1). Level should lie between futl (2) and lower (3) marks. Top up
between fun (2) and lower (3) level marks. via filler cap (4).

6 Legal and safety checks

Lighting and signalling: Safety: Fuel:
• Take a minute to check that the headlight, • Check that the throttle grip rotates • This may seem obvious, but check that you
taillight, brake light, Instrument lights and tum smoothly and snaps shut when released, In all have enough fuel to complete your journey. If
signals all work correctly. steering positions. Also check fOf' the correct you notice signs of fuel leakage - rectify the
• Check that the horn sounds when the amount of freeplay (see Chapter 1). cause Immediately.
switch is operated. • On all ZX600 models, check that the clutch • Ensure you use the correct grade unleaded
• A working speedometer is a statutory lever operates smoothly and with the correct or lOw-lead fuel see Chapter 4
requirement In the UK. amount of free play (see Chapter 1). SpeclficaliOns.
• Check that sldestand return spring holds
the stand securely up when retracted. The
same applies to the centrestand.
• Check that the eoglne STOP switch worb
correctly.
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Daily (pre-ride) checks 0'13

7 Tyres

Tyre care: left, they will eventually penetrate through ttIe saler limit. Kawasaki recommend the
casing and cause a puncture. follOWing minimum tread depths.
• Check the lyres care fully for cuts, tears, • II tyre damage is apparen t, Of unexplained
embedded nails or other sharp objects and loss of pressure Is experienced, seek the Regular speed Front Rear
excessIVe wear. Operation of the motorcycle adVice of a tyre fitting specialist without delay. Up 10 80 mph (130 kmh) 1 mm 2mm
with excessively worn lyres Is extremely Above 80 mph (130 kmhl 1 mm 3mm
hazardous, as traclion and handling are Tyre tread depth:
directly affected. • At the time of writing UK law requires that • M any tyres now incorporate wear Indicators
• Check the condition of the lyre lIalll& and tread depth must be at least 1 mm over 3/01 of in the tread. IdetlUIy the triangular pointer, or
ensure the dust cap is in place. the tmad breadth all the way around the tyre, TWI mar1ting, oolhe lyre sidewall to locate Ihe
• Pick out any stones or nalls which may with no bald patches. Many riders, however. iodicalor bar aod replace the lyre if the lread
helle become embedded in the tyre tread. 11 consider 2 mm tread deplh minimum 10 be a has worn down to the bar.

Check the tyre pressures when the tyres

1 are cold aod keep them properly Innaled 2 Measure tread depth at the centre of the
lyre USing a tread depth gauge 3 Tyre tread wear indicator bar and lIs
locat.on marking (usually either an arrow,
a triangle or the letters TWll on the sidewall
(arrows).

The correct pressures: Model Froot Rear

• The lyres mUSI be checked when col d ,
not Immediately after rid.ng. Note that low lyre ZXSOO - all models 32.- 36".
pressures may cause the lyre to slip on the
rim or come off. High lyre pressures Will cause ZX750F
abnormal tread wear and unsafe handling.
• Use an accurate pressure gauge.
Up to 98 kg (215 Ibs) load
Above 98 kg (215 Ibs) load, or high speed ,..-
32 pO' 36""
41 psi
• Proper air pressure will increase lyre life
and provide maximum stability and ride
comfort.
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0 0 14 Daily (pre-ride) checks

Notes

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all
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Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Contents
Alrfiller element· clean .......... . .. 14 Drive chain and sprockets - wear check . . . . . . 9
Air suction valves - check (US models) • • • • • • • • . • • • . • • . • • • • • •• 4 Engine oiVfUter - change .... .. . . .... . ... . .............. 13
Alternator dnve belt - check and adjustment (750 models) ....... 25 Evaporative emission control system (Callfomia models)· check .. 7
AntJ-dive seats and metal pipe • replacement (600 A and B models) . 31 Exhaust system· check . . . . .. . . . . ....... 18
Battery electrolyte leveVspecific gravity - check. . . . ....... 17 Fasteners - check ...... ............ . ............ 19 1
Brake and clutch fluid - change ..•..•.•... .. . ..•..•. 30 Fork oil - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ........... 28
Brake caliper and master cylinder seals - replacement ..... 32 Fuel hoses - replacement .............................. 36
Brake and clutch hoses· replacement ....................... 37 Fuel system - check and filler cleaning. . ............... 22
Brake pads - wear check ................................. 10 Idle speed - check and adjustment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 5
Brake system - general check .............................. 11 lubrication - general ......... 12
Carburetlor synchronisation - check and adjusimenl • . . . . • • . • • •• 6 Spark plugs - clean and gap . .. . . ... ................... . 3
carburettor warmer system components - check (UK models, Spark plugs - replacement ................................ 24
where fitted) ....•..•..•..•.....•..•.••..•.•.••.......• 29 Steering head bearings - check and adjustment ............... 15
Clutch· check and adjustment (600 models) . . . . . . . . 8 Steering head bearings - lubrication. . . . . . . ....... 34
Clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder seals· replacement Suspension - check. . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . ................. 39
(750 models) ........... .......... . .. 33 Swingarm and Unl-trak linkage - bearing lubrication ....... ..... 23
Cooling system· check ....... ................ . ..... 26 Throttle cables - freeplay check and adjustment . 21
Cooling system· draining, flushing and refillill9 . . . . . .... 27 Tyreslwheels - general check . 16
Cylinder compression· check ............................. 38 Valve clearances - chec:ll; and adjustment . 20
Drive chain - check and adjustment .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 2 Wheel bearings - check and lubrication .. ............ 35
Dnve chain - lubrication ................ ...... . . . .. 1

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, SlitabIe for
ncMce witt! ittIe

""""""""
~....
Fai1y easy, SI.iI:abIe
for be;}ill 181 with
~ expel alee
~
~ --
F.... dfficuIt,

'" """""'"' ~~
DIY medali;
~ Difficult, """"'" to<
experienced OY
n IElChalIic
~
~
'"
Very dfficult,

""""'" "'"""'" 00' ~

or plOfessiouai
~

~
•
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1. 2 Servicing specifications
Engine
Spar1< plugs - 600 models
Type
US models ......... . NGK D9EA or ND X27ES-U
UK and Canadian models NGK DRSES or ND X27ESR-U
Gap .... 0.6 10 0.7 mm (0.024 to 0.02S in)
Spark plugs - 750 models
Type - US
Standard plug NGK D6EA or ND X24ES-U
For racing ... NGK D9EA or ND X27ES·U
For cold operation NGK D7EA or ND X22ES·U
Type - Canada
Standard plug NGK DR8ES-L or ND X24ESR-U
For racing ......... . NGK DR8ES or ND X27ESR-U
FOf cold operation NGK DR7ES or ND X22ESR-U
Type -UK
Standard and racing plug NGK DA8ES or ND X27ESA-U
For cold operation . NGK DRSES-L or DR7ES. ND X24ESR-U or X22ESR-U
Gap....... . .......... . 0.6 to 0.7 mm (0.02410 0.028 In)
Engine Idle speed - 600 models
All except California models ..•.......•..•..•..•..•..•... 1050:t 50 rpm
California models ..........•..•....•.....•..•..•..•... 13OO:t 50 rpm
Engine Idle speed - 750 models
All except California models . . . . . • . . • . • • .• . •.••.....••..•.. 950 to 1050 rpm
california models ........... . ............... • ........... 1200 10 1300 rpm
Valve clearances (COLD engine) - 600 models
Intake .•.•••..•..•.••.•••.•••.••............... 0.1310 0.18 mm {O.OO5 to 0.007 in)
Exhaust .................................... . O.IS 10 0.23 mm (0.007 to 0.009 in)
Valve clearances (COLD engine) - 750 models
Intake ....... . ........ . 0.08100.13 mm (0.0031 100.0051 In)
Exhaust .. . .......... . 0.12 to 0.17 mm (0.0047 to 0.0066 In)
Cylinder compression pressure - 600 models
Acceptable range .•..•..•....•..•..•.. 10910171 psi
Maximum difference between cylinders . 14 psi
Cylinder compression pressure - 750 models
Acceptable range ..... . 139t0213psi
Maximum difference between cylinders •.. Not specified
Garburettor synchronization (vacuum difference between cylinders) Less than 2 em (0.391 in) Hg
Cylinder numbering (from left side to right side 01 bike) .••••••.••.• 1-2-3-4
Finng order ...... .. ................................ . 1-2-4-3

Miscellaneous
Brake pad minimum thickness ...•..•.•...•..•..•..•..•..•..• 1.0 mm (0.040 in)
Freeplay adjustments
Throttle gnp ............•.....•..•............... 2 to 3 mm (O.OS to 0.12 In)
Clutch lever (gap between lever and lever bracket when !reeplay
Is taken up) - 600 models ....•..•....•.... 2 10 3 mm (0.08 10 0.12 in)
Drive chain
Slack .. 35 to 40 mm (1.38 to 1.57 in)
2Q-hnk length 323 mm (12.73 in) maximum
Battery electrolyte specific gravity •• . •.••.•• 1.280 al68°F (2O"C)
Minimum lyre tread depth
Fron t ••••••.•••.•.••••••. 1.0 mm (0.040 in)
Re"
Up to 80 mph (130 kmh) 2.0 mm (0.079 in)
Above SO mph (130 kmh) 3.0 mm (0.118 11'\)
Tyre pressures (cold) - 600 modelS
Front .. . ............•..•..•............... ..... •..•.. 32 psi
Rear .............................. . 36 psi
lyre pressures (cold) - 750 models Front Rear
Up 10 215 Ibs (98 kg) load. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . • . . .....•. 32 psi 36 psi
21510401 100 (98 to 182 kg) load. or high speed ........ . 36 psi 41 psi
SUspension air pressures
Forks - 600 A and B models 7 to 10 psi
Rear shock absorbef
600 A and B models 01050 psi
600C models 01028 psi
750 model 01021 PSI
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Servicing specifications 1. 3

Torque specifications
011 drain plug •.......... . ................ . 20 Nm (14.5 ft-Ibs)
011 filter mounting bott ..... ...• . .••.••.. 20 Nm (14.5 ft-Ibs)
Coolant drain boll ............ •. . 8 Nm (69 in-Ibs)
Spark plugs ......... •. . 13.3 Nm (120 in-Ibs)
Valve cover bot1s ..... •....•..• .. 8 Nm (87 in-Ibs)
Alternator mounting bolts · 750 models ......... . 39 Nm (29 ft-Ibs)

Recommended lubricants and fluids

Englneltransmlssion oil
Type •••.••• " ............••.••.••••...... , ' , ....... . API grade SG multigrade and fuel effiCient oil
Viscosity
In cold climates ...... ..•• • .•••••..............•.. SAE 10W40 or 10W50
In wann climates ................................•.. SAE 2OW40 or 2OW5O
Capacity· 600 models
With litter change 3.0 lit (3.2 US qt, 5.3 Imp pt)
Oil change only 2.6 lit (2.7 US ql, 4.6 Imp pI)
Capacity - 750 models
With fi ller change 3.2 lit (3.4 US qt, 5.6 Imp pI)
Oil change only 3.0 iiI (3.2 US qt, 5.3 Imp pI)
Coolant
T,pe 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol based anhfreeze and soft water
Capacity
600 A and B models and 750 models .............. . 2.0 1,1 (2.1 US qt, 3.5 Imp pI)
600 C models .....•••• • •••.••.••••..••.....•..•. 2.3111 (2.4 US qt, 4.0 Imp pI)
Bfake and clutch ftuid ........ . DOT4
Fork 011
T,pe SAE 10W20 fork oil
Amount - 600 A and B models
Dry fill 321 ±4cc
At oil change ..............•..•..•........... Approximately 273 cc
Oil level - 600 A and B models (forks fully extended - no spring) ..•. 334 ± 2 mm (13.16 ± 0.008 in)
Amount - C1 to C5 (UK), Cl to C6 (US) models
Dry fill
Left fork tube 311±4cc
Right fort< tube 356±4CC
At 011change
Left fork tube ............ . ..................• •.. •. Approximately 265 cc
Right fork tube ....... • .......................... . Approximately 305 cc
Oil level- C1 to C5 (UK). Cl to C6 (US) models (forks fully
compressed - no spring)
Left fork tube ...•..• . .•.....•........•.........•..•.. 182 ± 2 mm (7.2 ± 0.008 in) 1
Right fork tube .....••..•.....•..•....... 154 ± 2 mm (6.07 ± 0.008 In)
Amount - C6 and C7 (UK), C7 to C10 (US) models
~. . ...................•..•................ 349:t4cc
At oil change .............. . ............... . Approximately 300 cc
Oil level - C6 and C7 (UK), C7 to C1 0 (US) models (forks fully
compressed - no spring) . 126:t 2 mm (4.71 ± 0.008 in)
Amount - 750 models
~OO 380:t 4 cc
At oil change .. . . . . . . .. . ............................. . Approximately 325 cc
0,1 level - 750 models (for1o::s fully compressed - no spring)
Left fork tube .. . ....•..•..•... . 120 :t 2 mm (4.724:t 0.079 in)
Right fork tube ..........•...... • 149:t 2 mm (5.866:t 0.G79 in)
Miscellaneous
Wheel bearings ................ ...... . Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease
SWing arm pivot bearings ............ . Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease
Cables and lever pivots .............. . Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil
Sidestandlcenterstand pivots ........•. Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil
Brake pedaVshift lever pivots Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil
Throttle gnp ................... . Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant
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1·4 Component locations

Component locations on right side

1 Rear brake fluid reservoir 5 Coo/ant reservoir - 750 models 9 Clutch cable lower adjuster - 600 models
2 Battery 6 Fork oil drain plug 10 Engine oil filler cap
3 Steering head bearings 7 Brake pads 11 Rear brake pedal height adjuster
4 Front brake fluid reservoir 8 Engine oil window
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Component locations ' 05

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Component locations on left sitte

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1 Coolant reservoir - 600 C models 3 Fuel tap filter 7 Engine oil drain bolt and filter
2 Clutch cable upper adjuster - 4 Idle speed sdjustfJ( 8 Alternator belt • 750 models
600 models, clutch fluid reservoir - 5 Ai, filter 9 Coolant f9S9fIIOtf - 600 A and B models
750 models 6 Drive chain 10 Brake pads
all
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1.6 Maintenance schedule

Note: The daily (pre-ride) checks outlined in the owner's manual covers those items which should be inspected on a daily basis. Always perform
the pre-ride inspection at every maintenance interval (in addition to the procedures listed). The intervals listed below are the intervals
recommended by the manufacturer for each particular operation during the model years covered in this manual. Your owner's manual may have
different intofllals for your model.

Daily or before riding Every 6000 miles (10,000 km)

See 'Daily (pre-ride) checks' at the beginning of this All of the items above plus:
manual. '"] Check the valve clearances (Sec 20)
o Check the throttle cable freeplay (Sec 21).
L:J Check the cleanliness of the fuel system and the
After the initial 500 miles (800 km) condition of the fuel and vacuum hoses (Sec 22).
Note: This check is usually performed by a Kawasaki dealer after th6 o Lubricate the swingarm needle bearings and
first 500 miles (SOO km) from new. Thereafter, msintenance is carried Uni-trak linkage (Sec 23).
out according to the following intervals of the schedule. o Replace the spark plugs (Sec 24).
"0 Check and adjust the alternator drive belt - 750
models (Sec 25).
Every 200 miles (300 km) 0, Check the cooling system (Sec 26).
o Lubricate the drive chain (Sec 1).

Every 18,000 miles (30,000 km)

Every 500 miles (800 km) Oi Change the coolant (Sec 27).
11 Check/adjust the drive chain slack (Sec 2). D Change the fork oil (Sec 28).

Every 3000 miles (5000 km) Every year

o Clean and gap the spark plugs (Sec 3). [1 Check the carburettor warmer system components
o Check the operation of the air suction valve - US - UK models only (Sec 29).
models (Sec 4).
o Check the idle speed (Sec 5).
o Check the carburettor synchronisation 6). (sec Every two years
o Check the evaporative emission control system -
California models (Sec 7).
U Adjust the clutch freeplay - 600 models (Sec 8). oo Replace
Change the brake and clutch fluid (Sec 30).
the anti-dive seals and metal pipe - 600 A
o Check the drive chain and sprockets for wear and B models (Sec 31).
o Replace the seals in the brake calipers and master
(Sec 9).
o Check the brake pads (Sec 10).
:0
cylinders (Sec 32).
Replace the seals in the clutch slave cylinder and
[j Check the brake system (Sec 11).
[j Lubricate all cables, levers, pedal and stand pivots master cylinder - 750 models (Sec 33).
:0 Lubricate the steering head bearings (Sec 34).

e
(Sec 12).
[1 Change the engine oil and oil filter (Sec 13). Check the wheel bearings (Sec 35).
C Clean the air filter element (Sec 14). Replace the fuel hoses (Sec 36).
C Check the steering head bearing adjustment Replace the brake hoses (Sec 37).
(Sec 15).
J: Check the tyres and wheels (Sec 16).
oo Check the battery electrolyte level (Sec 17).
Check the exhaust system for leaks 18).(sec Non-scheduled maintenance
o Check the tightness of all fasteners (Sec 19). "} Check the cylinder compression (Sec 38).
o Check the suspension (Sec 39).
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Maintenance and servicing 1-7

Introduction
1 This Chapter is designed to help the home never performed any maintenance on it, then 3 Before beginning any maintenance or
mechanic maintain his/her motorcycle for you may want to start at the nearest repair, the machine should be cleaned
safety, economy, long life and peak interval and Include some additional thoroughly, especially around the oil filter,
performance. procedures to ensure thai nothing Important spark plugs, valve cover, side panels,
2 Deciding where to start or plug into the is overlooked. If you have just had a major carburettors, etc. Cleaning will help ensure
routine maintenance schedule depends on engine overhaul, then you may want to start that dirt does not contaminate the engine and
several factors. If the warranty period on the maintenance routine from the beginning. will allow you to detect wear and damage that
your motorcycle has just expired, and if it If you have a used machine and have no could otherwise easily go unnoticed.
has been maintained according to the knowledge of its history or maintenance 4 Certain maintenance information Is
warranty standards, you may want to pick up record, you may deSire to combine all the sometimes printed on decals attached to the
routine maintenance as it coincides with the checks into one large service initially and motorcycle. If the information on the decals
next mileage or calendar Interval. II you have then settle into the maintenance schedule differs from that included here, use the
owned the machine for some time but have prescribed. information on the decal.

Every 200 miles (300 km)

and rollers to provide lubrication of the
1 Drive chain - lubrication intemalload bearing areas.
2 Use a good quality chain lubricant and
apply it to the area where the side plates
overlap - not the middle of the roHers (see
Note: " the chain is extremely dirty, it should Illustration). After applying the lubricant, let it
be removed and cleaned before it's lubricated soak in a few minutes before wiping off any
(see Chapter 6). excess.
1 The best time to lubricate the chain is after Caution: If one of the commercial aerosol
the motorcycle has been ridden. When the chain lubricants is used, make sure It Is
chain is warm, the lubricant will penetrate the marlced as being suitable for O-ring
joints between the side plates, pins, bushings chaIns.
1.2 Hold the plastic nozzle near the edge
of the chain and turn the wheel by hand -
as the lubricant sprays out repeat the
procedure on the inside edge of the chain
Every 500 miles (800 km)
centerstand and shift the transmission into the chain is tight between the sprockets, rusty
2 Drive chain - Neutral. Make sure the ignition switch is off. or kinked, ii's time to replace It with a new one.
check and adjustment 3 Push up on the bottom run of the chain and
Adjustment
measure the slack midway between the two
sprockets (see Illustration), then compare 4 Rotate the rear wheel until the chain is 1
your measurements to the value listed In this positioned with the least amount of slack
Check Chapter's Specifications. As wear occurs, the present.
1 A neglected drive chain won't last long and chain will actually stretch, which means 5 Loosen the torque link-la-rear caliper
can quickly damage the sprockets. Routine adjustment usually involves removing some holder bolt.
chain adjustment and lubrication isn't difficult slack from the chain. In some cases where 6 Loosen and back-off the locknuts on the
and will ensure maximum chain and sprocket lubrication has been neglected, corrosion and adjuster bolts (see illustration).
life. galling may cause Ihe links to bind and kink, 7 Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle
2 To check the chain, place the bike on its which effecUvely shortens the chain's length. If nut (see illustration).

2.3 Push up on the boUom run of the 2.6 loosen the locknuts on the adjusting 2.7 Remove the COUer pin and loosen the
chain and measure how far it deflects bolts axle nut
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1.8 Every 500 miles (800 km)

a Turn the axle adjusting bolts on both sides correspond to the same relative marks on
of the swing arm untillhe proper chain tension each side of the swingarm (see illustration).
is obtained. Be sure to tum the adjusting bolts Tighten the axle nut to the torque listed in the
evenly to keep the rear wheel in alignment. If Chapter 7 Specifications, then install a new
the adjusting bolts reach the end of their cotter pin (split pin). If necessary. turn the nul
travel, the chain is excessively worn and an additional amount to line up the cotler pin
should be replaced with a new one (see (split pin) hole with the castellalions in the nul
Chapter 6). - don't loosen the nut to do this.
9 When the chain has the correct amount 01 10 Tighten the locknuts and the torque link
slack, make sure the marks on the adjusters nut securely.

2.9 The mark on each adjuster should be

aligned with the same relative marks on
each side of the swlngarm
Every 3000 miles (5000 km)
3 Inspect the electrodes for wear. Both the
3 Spark plugs - center and side electrodes should have
clean and gap square edges and the side electrode should
be of uniform thickness. Look for excessive
deposits and evidence of a cracked or
1 This motorcycle is equipped with spark chipped insulator around the center electrode.
plugs that have 12 mm threads and an 18 mm Compare your spark plugs to the colour sparl<
wrench hex. Make sure your spark plug plug reading chart at the end of this manual.
socket is the correct size before attempting to Check the threads, the washer and the
remove the plugs. porcelain insulator body for cracks and other
2 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4), then damage.
disconnect the spark plug caps from the 4 If the electrodes are not excessively worn,
spark plugs. If available, use compressed air and if the deposits can be easily removed with
to blow any accumulated debris from around a wire brush, the plugs can be regapped and
the spark plugs. Remove the plugs (see reused ~f no cracks or chips are visible in the Since the plugs are quite recessed, slip
illustration). insulator). If in doubt concerning the condition a short hmgth of hose over the end of
of the plugs, replace them with new ones, as the plug to use as a tool to thread It
the expense is minimal. Into position. The hose will grip the
5 Cleaning spark plugs by sandblasting is plug well enough to tum it, but will
permitted, provided you clean the plugs with a start to slip if tha plug begins to CTOSS-
high flash-point solvent afterwards. thread in the hole.
6 Before installing new plugs, make sure they
are the correct type and heat range. Check
the gap between the electrodes, as they are

~
If a stripped spark plug
not preset. For best results, use a wire-type • thread is discovered, note
gauge rather than a flat gauge to check the HINT that n can be r&paired by
gap (see illustration). If the gap must be Installing a thread insart -
adjusted, bend the side electrode only and be refer to Tools and Workshop Tips in the
very careful not to chip or crack the insulator Reference section of this manual fo,
nose (see Illustration). Make sure the washer details.
Is in place before installing each plug.
7 Since the cylinder head is made of 8 Once the plugs are finger tight. tile job can
3.2 Use an extension and a deep socket to aluminum, which is soft and easily damaged,
remove the spark plugs be finished with a socket. If a torque wrench is
thread the plugs into the head by hand. available, tighten the sparl< plugs to the torque
listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If you do
not have a torque wrench, tighten the plugs
finger tight (until the washers bottom on the
cylinder head) then use a wrench to tighten
• • them an additional 1/4 him. Regardless of the
method used, do not over-tighten them.
9 Reconnect the spark plug caps.

4 Air suction valves -

check (US models)

1 The air suction valves, installed on US

3.6a Using a wire type gauge to check the 3.6b Bend the side electrode only, as models only, are one-way check valves that
plug gap indicated by the arrows allow fresh air to flow Into the exhaust ports.
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Every 3000 miles (5000 km) ,.g

4.4 Details of the air suctlon valves and 4.5 Check the reeds (arrows) on the aIr 5.3 Tum the Idle speed adjusting screw
hoses suction yalye for damage and carbon (arrow) In or out until the specifted idle is
1 Vacuum switching va/va build-up obtained
2 Air suction vs/ve carbu rettor for cylinder no. , (see 4 A vacuum gauge setup can also be
3 Hose to air filter housJng Illustration), until the idle speed listed In this purchased from a dealer or fabricated from
The suction developed by the exhaust pulses Chapter's Specifications Is obtained. commonly available hardware and automotive
pulls the air from the air cleaner, through a 4 Snap the throttle open and shut a few vacuum gauges.
hose to the vacuum switch valve, through a times, then recheck the Idle speed. If 5 The manometer is the more reliable and
pair of hoses and two pairs of reed valves, necessary, repeat the adjustment procedure. accurate Instru ment, and for that reason is
and finally Into the exhaust ports. The 5 If a smooth, steady idle can't be achieved, preferred oyer the vacuum gauge setup:
introduction 01 fresh air helps ignite any fuel the fueVair mixture may be Incorrect. Refer to however, since the mercury used in the
that may not have been burned by tile normal Chapter 4 for additional ca rburettor manometer is a liquid, and extremely toxic,
combustion process. information. extra precautions must be taken during use
2 Remove the fuel lank (see Chapter 4). and storage of the Instrument.
3 Remove the ignition coils (see Chapter 5). 6 Because of the nature of the
6 Carburettor synchronisation synchronizallon procedure and the need for
4 Disconnect the hoses from the alf suction - check and adjustment
valves (see illustration). Remove the bolts special Instruments, most owners leave the
and lift off the covers. task to a dealer service department or a
5 Check the vatve lor cracks, warping, reputable motorcycle repair shop.
Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is 7 Start the engine and let it run until it reaches
burning or other damage (s •• Illustration).
extremely flammable, so take normal operating temperature. IIleo shut it off.
Check the area where the reeds contact the
extra precautions when you 8 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapt6( 4).
valve holder for scratches, separation and
worlr on sny part of the fuel 9 Detach the vacuum hoses, or blanking
grooves. If any of these conditions are found,
system. Don't smoke or IIllow open flames caps, from the fittings on the carburettors
replace the valve.
or barB light bulbs near the worlr arell, and (see illustration), then hook up the vacuum
6 Wash the yalyes with sotYElflt if carbon has don't worlr in a garagll where II nstun" gauge set or the manometer according to the
accumulated between the reed and the Yalye glls-type applillnce (suell as a water manufactur6('s instructions. Make sure there
holder. heater or clothes dryer) Is present. If you are no leaks In the setup, as false readings will
7 Installation of the Yalyes Is the reverse of spill IIny fuel on your skin, rinse It off result. 1
removal. Be sure to use a new gasket. immediately with soap and water. When 10 Reconnect the fuel line to the fuel tank
you perform sny kind of worlr on the fuel Ofs not necessary to hOOK-UP the vacuum line
system, wear safety glasses and have. to the fuel tap. Have an assistant hold the fuel
5 Idle speed -
class B type fire extinguisher on hand. tank out of the way, but in such a position that
check and adjustment
1 Carburettor synchronization Is simply the fuel can stili be deliyered and access to the
process of adjusting the carburettors so they carburettors Is unobstructed. Place the fuel
pass the same amOtJnt of fueVair mixture to tap leyer in the Prime position on 600 models.
1 The Idle speed should be checked and each cylinder. This is done by measuring the On 750 models, the tap knob must be
adjusted after the carburettors are vacuum produced in each cylinder.
synchronised and when It Is obYlously too Carburettors that are out of synchronlzatJon
high or too low. Before adjusting the Idle will result in decreased fuel mileage,
speed, make sure the valye clearances and increased engine temperature, less than Ideal
spark plug gaps are correct. Also, turn the throttle response and higher 'I1bration levels.
handlebars back-aod-forth and see If the idle 2 To property synchronise the carburettors,
speed changes as this Is done. tf It does. the you will need some sort 01 vacuum gauge
throWe cable may not be adjusted correctly, setup. preferabty with a gauge for each
Of it may be worn out. Be sure to correct this cylinder. or a mercury manometer, which is 8
problem before proceeding. calibrated tube arrangement that utilizes
2 The engine shOlJId be at normal operating columns of mercury to indicate engine
temperature, which Is usually reached aft6( 10 vacuum.
to 15 minutes of Slop and go riding. Place the 3 A manometer can be purchased from a
motorcycle on the centElfStand and make SlJre motorcycle dealer or accessory shop and
the transmiSSion IS in Neutral. should have the necessary rubber hoses
3 Tum the throttle stop screw, located on the supplied with it for hooking into the vacuum 6.9 Detach the vacuum hoses from the
left side of the bike, Just forward of the hose fittings on the carburettors. fittings on the front of the carburetors