Surface Decoration Techniques

Coloration (Dyeing)
 Dyeing
• Dyeing is the process of adding color
to textile products like fibers, yarns,
and fabrics. Dyeing is normally done in a
special solution containing dyes and particular
chemical material. After dyeing,
dye molecules have uncut chemical bond with
fiber molecules. The temperature and time
controlling are two key factors in dyeing.
 Source of Dye
• The primary source of dye, historically, has
generally been nature, with the dyes being
extracted from animals or plants. Since the
mid-18th century, however, humans have
produced artificial dyes to achieve a broader
range of colors and to render the dyes more
stable to resist washing and general use.
 Dyeing
• Acrylic fibers are dyed with basic dyes,
while nylon and protein fibers such
as wool and silk are dyed with acid dyes,
and polyester yarn is dyed with disperse
dyes. Cotton is dyed with a range of dye types,
including vat dyes, and modern synthetic reactive
and direct dyes.
Types of Dye:
• Natural dye.
• Man made dye.
 Natural Dye
• What is Natural Dyes?
• Natural dyes are non-allergenic, non-toxic and
biodegradable. Although natural dye are safe for the
environment, skin-friendly and eye-pleasing, they have
a very weak bond with textile fiber materials and must
be fixed on textile fibers using metallic mordants, some
of which are not environmentally friendly. Natural dyes
are defined as any dyes, pigments or other substances
derived from natural sources such as plants, animals
and minerals that are renewable and sustainable
organic resources with minimal environmental impact.
Some sources of natural dye
Types of Fabric used for Natural Dyeing
Types of fabric to used:
• Cotton
• Silk
• Wool
• Linen
 Dyeing process
• Dyeing (hand)
– Natural dye.
– Tie dye.
• Normal tie dye process.
• Shibhori dyeing technique.
• Sharpie dyeing.
 Natural Materials Used for Dyeing
Not all natural materials will produce a dye, and some
produce colors that are nothing like the original plant it
came from. Here’s a list of colors and the plant material is
given below:
• Onion skins (yellow/orange)
• Coffee grounds/tea (brown)
• Strawberries/cherries (pink)
• Roses (pink)
• Lavender (pink)
• Red cabbage (blue/purple)
• Hyacinth flowers (blue)
• Beets (deep red)
Natural Colors
 How to Get Started Dyeing
• Step 1: Prepare the Dye:
- Plant or dye sources should be chopped into
small pieces & measure.
- Then put into a medium-to-large pot and add
twice as much water.
• Step 2: Prepare the Fixative:
- If fruits dye is used for fabric, have to use a salt
fixative.
- 1/2 cup salt add in 8 cups of water
- Put the fabric in here and boil for one hour.
- Vinegar fixative have to use for plant dye .
- one part vinegar to be added with four parts
water.
- Fabric is put in the bath and boil for one hour.

• Step 3: Dye the Fabric

- Wet fabric is placed into the dye bath.
- Fabric is simmered until the fabric reach
the color and shade.
- Remember, the color is going to be a bit
lighter once the fabric dries out.
 Advantage of natural dye
Below we’ve listed the main advantages to using natural clothing dyes-
Minimal Environmental Impact – Natural dyes come from the earth, instead of
from a science lab, so the contents are much better for the environment. Sourcing
natural dyes has less carbon footprint (in most cases) than man-made dyes, and
natural dyes are usually biodegradable too.
Renewable – Most natural dyes are usually obtained from renewable sources and
natural sources, so they’re very easy to source and can be harnessed without
causing any (or very little) harm to the environment. For people who want to keep
their brand eco-friendly and environmentally conscious, this is a huge selling
point.
Colour effect – For brands that want a softer effect, or a softer hue in their
colouring, natural dyes are really good for providing that.
Less Chemicals – For many people this is a big factor in their decision, as a lot of
people react badly to man-made dye because of the chemicals or ingredients
inside. Opting for natural dyes can help counter this, as the ingredients are natural
so considered less ‘harsh’.
Generally Safe / Less risk – For natural dyes used in makeup products (such as
lipsticks for example) the natural dyes are much safer in cases of accidental
ingestion.
 Disdvantages of natural dye
Whilst there are many pros to using natural dyes, there are some drawbacks too. As we
want to be as fair as possible in this article, and to give you as much information as
possible, here are the disadvantages to natural dyes.

Cost / quantity – Whereas synthetic dyes seem to go quite far (and can cover larger
portions of fabric) a natural dye can’t. A larger amount of natural dye would be needed to
cover the same space of synthetic dye, which can sometimes mean prices are higher and
synthetic dyes are often more budget friendly.

The colour effects – Natural dyes may fade quicker than their synthetic alternative. The
colour pay-off may also not be right for all projects (as it has a much softer effect).

Availability – Nature is natural – which can mean things go in and out of season, and
sometimes things may not be available. When you put this in the context of natural dye, it
means that sometimes (or at some times of the year) the dye might be harder to come by
as availability might be lower than usual. This can also put prices up, which can be
frustrating for smaller businesses.
Harmful Effects – Whilst natural dye doesn’t necessarily contain harmful chemicals,
there have been ingredients found in natural dyes that may not be beneficial. it’s
worth bearing in mind that natural dyes may need mordants for application (it
helps the dye stick to the fabric) – which can be toxic. Some examples of mordants
used in natural dyes are aluminium, copper, iron, and chrome.

Sustainability – Whilst natural dyes are renewable, they do create a slight

sustainability issue, because the dye is being pulled from natural sources (which
need sustaining in order to stay maintained).
 Tie dye
TIE DYEING is an ancient Art of decorating or producing
patterns on fabric.
It is a resist process in which areas of the fabric is tied
off using string, cord and or rubber bands. The fabric is
then dipped in the dye to reveal the intricate patterns
created.
The areas that are tied up will
absorb the dye while the
areas tied up will resist the
dye and remain white.
 Brief History of Tie dyeing
• Tie dyeing was developed about sixth century AD in Japan
and China.
• It is also a traditional craft in India, Indonesia, Ghana and
other African countries.
• The process involves using thread to tie off small pieces of
fabric in intricate patterns before dipping the fabric in dye.
• People used natural dyes made from berries, leaves, roots
and flowers to colour clothing.
• These natural items were boiled, and
the fabrics then soaked in the hot,
dyed water to be dyed a new colour.
 Other names for Tie dye
Traditional methods of Tie dyeing have been done in many
cultures around the world and goes by different names:

• BANDHANI: is the name given to tie dyeing in

India. The term ‘Bandhani’ comes from the word
‘Bandhan’ which means tying up.
• SHIBORI: Is the method of tie dye that is native to
Japan. There are several styles of shibori.
• JUMPUTAN: the tie dye process known and used
in Indonesia.
• MUDMEE: is a specific type of tie dye that is
native to Thailand and Laos. Mudmee patterns
are known for gorgeous starbursts and rich
vibrant colours..
 Materials & Equipment needed for Tie dyeing
1. FABRIC
• It must be made of Natural fibres as they absorb and hold the dye well.
• Cotton (100%), linen, rayon, muslin, organdie, voile and silk are
examples.

The fabric must be washed thoroughly first in warm soapy water

to remove the ‘sizing’ (the chemical added to make the fabric stiff).
 Materials & Equipment needed for Tie dyeing
(cont’d)
FABRIC DYES • Several brands are available – RIT, Dylon etc.
• Hot or cold water dye may be used.

FIXATIVE • A chemical added to the dye bath to help make

darker colours brighter and to fasten the colour
into the fabric
• Soda ash or salt may be used as a fixative.

Pot • Used for heating water to dilute the dye

when using hot water dyes.
 Preparing the Dye bath
To prepare the dye mixture:
• Select a suitable plastic basin.
• Collect a small amount of water then add the dye and mix well to
dissolve the particles. (If hot water dye is used, first get some hot
water and dissolve the dye in it).

• Add more water so that the fabric can be fully

immersed into it.
• Add fixative (soda ash or salt) to the mixture.
The will fasten the dye into the fabric to make
the colour brighter and to prevent bleeding.
 TIE DYE TECHNIQUES
Before folding and tying up your fabric rinse your fabric in water and
wring it out so that it is not dripping. A damp piece of fabric will absorb
the dye more easily.

1. BINDING (CIRCLES)
• Lay the fabric flat.
• Gather up a small area to be tied off (with or
without stones inside; other objects such as
shells, marbles, bottle covers etc may be
used also).
• Tie each one securely with the twine or
rubber bands.
• Dip in the dye bath for 20 minutes then remove.
• Untie to reveal the design then place it to dry.
 TIE DYE TECHNIQUES (cont’d)
2. MARBLING (CRUSHING/CRUMPLING)
• Lay the fabric flat
• Bunch up the fabric into a ball by crushing it
up in the palms of the hands
• Tie it tightly with twine or using several
rubber bands in a criss-cross manner.
• Dip in the dye bath for 20 minutes then
remove.
• Untie to reveal the design then place it to dry.
 TIE DYE TECHNIQUES (cont’d)
3. PLEATING (STRIPES)
• Lay the fabric flat
• Start by folding the fabric like an
accordion or paper fan (back and forth).
• Secure tightly with rubber bands or tie
tightly with twine at desired distances
(e.g. 2 – 3 inches).
• Dip in the dye bath for 20 minutes then
remove.
• Untie to reveal the design then place it
to dry.
 TIE DYE TECHNIQUES (cont’d)
4. CONCENTRIC CIRCLES (BULLS EYE)
• Lay the fabric flat
• Pick up the center of the fabric
• Pull the fabric upwards into a cone shape to
form a central peak
• Wrap with rubber bands or twine beginning at a
desired length from the center.
• Continue tying off at intervals (every 2-3 inches)
to form concentric circles of resist.
• Dip in the dye bath for 20 minutes then remove.
• Untie to reveal the design then place it to dry.
 TIE DYE TECHNIQUES (cont’d)
5. SWIRL
• First wet the fabric to make it easier to manipulate.
• Lay the fabric flat.
• Using the fingers, grip the fabric in the center.
• Begin twirling the fabric in a circular motion
around the fingers until all of the fabric is in
a spiral shape (looking like a windmill).
• Grip and secure tightly in position with rubber
bands or twine.
• Dip in the dye bath for 20 minutes then
remove.
• Untie to reveal the design then place it to dry.
 TIE DYE TECHNIQUES (cont’d)
6. KNOTTING
• Lay the fabric flat.
• Fold it into half lengthwise.
• Twist the fabric and tie it into a knot or
several knots at intervals and pull
tightly.
• Dip in the dye bath for 20 minutes then
remove.
• Untie to reveal the design then place it
to dry.
 TIE DYE TECHNIQUES (cont’d)
7. RUCHING
• Lay the fabric flat.
• Get a piece of cord and roll the fabric around
it either horizontally or diagonally).
• Use safety pins to pin the edges so the fabric
doesn’t pop open.
• Gather up the fabric at both ends to
Horizontal Ruching

Diagonal Ruching
 TIE DYE TECHNIQUES (cont’d)
8. FOLDING
• Lay the fabric flat.
• Fold the fabric in half, then in quarters. Fold
again into a triangle.
• Tie tightly in the middle and at both ends.
• Dip in the dye bath for 20 minutes then
remove.
• Untie to reveal the design then place it to
dry.
 TIE DYE TECHNIQUES (cont’d)
9. CLAMPING
• Lay the fabric flat.
• Fold the fabric into half then into quarters.
• Use binder clips to apply pressure to areas
of the folded fabric.
• Dip in the dye bath for 20 minutes then
remove.
• Remove the clamps to reveal the design
then place it to dry.
N.B. Clothes pins, paper clips, bull dog clips
etc can be used.
 TIE DYE TECHNIQUES (cont’d)
10. TRITIK (stitch resist)
• Lay the fabric flat.
• Using a needle and thread, sew on a design
of your own using a simple basting or stab
stitch.
• Pull the thread tightly at the end of sewing
so that the fabric is gathered up together.
• Dip in the dye bath for 20 minutes then
remove.
• Remove the thread to reveal the design
then place it to dry.
 Tie Dyeing Effects
• Some more other effects:
– Spiral.
– Double spiral.
– Donuts.
– Polka dots.
– Stripes.
– Bull’s eye.
 Shibori
• Shibori is a Japanese tie-dyeing technique, using
a variety of techniques in different shapes to
make different patterns. It is a Japanese dyeing
technique that typically involves folding, twisting
or bunching cloth and binding it, then dyeing it in
indigo. Whatever is used to bind the fabric will
resist the dye, resulting in areas of the cloth that
take the distinctive blue dye in patterns created
by the resistance, and other areas of the cloth
that remain white. Shibori is a very vast
technique and there are tons of ways to do it .
 Shibori
It is generally done into two methods:
• Using wood blocks
• Using rubber bands to bind and resist the
dye.
 Techniques of Shibori
There are various types of folding techniques of
shibori. The dyeing effect of sibori mainly depends on
these folding techniques. These are given below:
• Kumo Spider webs.
• Teeth.
• Maki-Nui (chevron).
• Mokume “wood grain”.
• Itajime Shibori.
• Arashi “storm”.
• Arashi Ombre
 Kumo (Spider Webs)
• Can vary the amount of binding used to resist the
fabric, which is pulled and gathered in hornlike units.-
Can be tied by hand or with the use of a tool.
• Artisans improved the technique by developing a tool
that hooks a point on the cloth, and pulls it into a cone
shape while a thread is mechanically wound around it.
Threads should be tighten up without breaking the
threads and scrunched the piece into a tiny, tight mass.
As a result, the dye will not be able to seep in and we
will get a clear pattern.
Kumo (Spiderwebs)
 Ori Nui (Teeth)
• Ori Nui is a type of stitch resist, characterized by
its toothlike pattern.
• The fabric below is pleated for Ori Nui and is
stitched by hand with a running stitch close to the
fold.
• This type of stitch makes linear designs on the
fabric.
• The threads must be pulled very tightly
• Have to make a double knot where it begins and
leave about 3 inches of loose thread where ends.
Ori Nui (Teeth)
Ori Nui (Teeth)
Run Stitches & Threads Pulled
 Maki Nui (Chevron)
• For the maki-nui pattern, the cloth is folded.
Along the fold, and through both layers, insert
the needle.
• Bring the point of needle back over the fold ,
wrapping the fold with the thread. (This is a whip-
stitch.) Insert the needle again through both
layers and wrap again.
• It does not matter if it is wrapped clock-wise or
counter-clock wise, just requires to be consistent.
Maki Nui
 Mokumi (Wood Grain)
• For the mokume pattern, parallel lines 1/4"
apart are drawn.
• Big running stitches are made with the needle.
• To get the wavy look, avoid aligning stitches
vertically - the stitches should be offset, like
bricks.
Mokumi
Mokumi
 Itajime Shibori
• Itajime Shibori is created by pleating, folding,
clamping and dyeing the fabric and it can be
used to create repeat patterns.
• Each pleat is pressed down as it is made. The
pleated strip of fabric can be folded into a
series of right triangles each stacked on top of
the others, pressing each fold is made.
• A stack of squares can be used with the same
pressing method. Once the fabric is folded
into stacks it can be tightly clamped between
two identical pieces of wood, glass, or heavy
card stock.
• Another method is to fold the cloth and then
bind only the corners of the fabric with rubber
bands. Then, wet the fabric and apply the dye.
Itajime
Itajime
Itajime
 Arashi (Storm)
• Arashi (Japanese for “storm”) shibori a pole-wrapping technique.
• The cloth is wrapped on a diagonal around a pole or cylindrical
object and then tightly bound by wrapping thread or wire up and
down the pole.
• Next, the cloth is scrunched down on the pole. The patterns are on
a diagonal in arashi shibori which suggests the rain from a heavy
storm.
• Roll dry fabric on pipe on the diagonal.-Create a loop and tie around
base.
• We can also tape end of string on pole and wrap about half an inch,
and scrunch down every 6-8 times.
• Dye can also be applied through brushing directly onto the fabric
with a brush.
Arashi
 Sharpie Tie Dye
• Sharpie tie dye is a process in which designs are made
with coloring pen on the fabric then just simply spray
on fabric by alcohol and rinse it. It is very simple and
easy to make new look in a fabric.
Supplies Needed
• Variety of Colorful Sharpie Permanent Markers
• Rubbing Alcohol
• Plastic Cups
• Dropper
• Rubber Bands
 Sharpie Tie Dye
Procedure:
• Step 1: Preparing the fabric
• Place cups, open-side up, underneath, securing with a rubber band.
• Step 2: Decoration
• Designs are made on each 'circle by using Sharpie colors marker
pen.
• Step: 3: Addition of Alcohol/ Water
• A little alcohol/water is added by using a dropper to at a time to
the center of each 'circle'. The alcohol/water will continue to spread
for a while after it is added.
• Step 4: Drying process
• Have to wait for sometimes for drying the fabric. Once it is dried,
the cups and rubber bands can be removed.
Sharpie
Sharpie
Sharpie
 Rust Dyeing
• Rust dyeing is done with the help of metal rust.
• For doing it rusty objects are placed next to wet fabric and
acquire rust patterning over time.
• However, vinegar will speed up the rusting process, it aids
in breaking the rust particles free from the object that is
rusting.
• Rusting occurs normally due to oxidation, i.e. contact with
the air.
• Rust dyeing with water takes about a week.
• Using vinegar produces color in less time usually twenty-
four hours.
• Natural fibers take the rust colors better than synthetic
fibers.
Rust Dyeing
Rust Dyeing
Batik Dye
 INTRODUCTION
The word batik actually means 'wax
writing'. It is a way of decorating
cloth by covering a part of it with a
coat of wax and then dyeing the
cloth. The waxed areas keep their
original colour and when the wax is
removed the contrast between the
dyed and undyed areas makes the pattern.
Batik is a technique of wax-resist dying applied to whole cloth, or
cloth made using this technique. Batik is made either by drawing
dots and lines of the resist with a spouted tool called a canting. A
tradition of making batik is found in various countries, including
Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, India, Sri Lanka, Philippines and
Nigeria.
 HISTORY
The beauty of batik lies in its simplicity and the fact that one need not
be an artist to achieve results. Some of the best effects in batik are
often achieved by chance. The history of Indian batik can be traced as
far back as 2000 years. Indians were conversant with the resist
method of printing designs on cotton fabrics long before any other
nation had even tried it. Rice starch and wax were initially used for
printing on fabrics. It is believed that after initial popularity of batik in
the past, the tedious process of dyeing and waxing caused the decline
of batik in India till recent times. Batik is very often considered a craft
like ceramics, pottery or even needlework. Although it is a household
word all over the world, it is still overlooked by art critics who do not
consider it an art form. There are several countries known for their
batik creations, starting with India where it originated. After that it
moved to Indonesia, Malaysia, Sri Lanka, Thailand and the West.
FAMOUS DESIGNS
 REGIONS
The revival of batik in India began in the 20th century when it was
introduced as a subject at the famous University of Shantiniketan in Kolkata.
In the south, near Chennai, the well-known artist's village of Chola-Mandal is
where batik gets an artistic touch. Batik that is produced in Chennai is known
for its original and vibrant designs.
Batik printing is done in:
• Gujarat: Block and Hand Batik
• Rajasthan: Block and Hand Batik
• Kolkata
• Andhra Pradesh: Kalamkari Batik
• Maharashtra
• Madhya Pradesh
Batik printing can be done anywhere but each area and region has its own
specialty in designs and colors.
 RAW MATERIAL USED
i)Cotton or silk cloth is
used for batik
(synthetic materials are
generally not used).
ii)Paraffin wax is used
in the process.
iii)Dyes -Direct and Vat
dyes are all used in the
dyeing process
iv)Firewood and kerosene
for heating the wax
Step 1: Cotton fabric is bleached (with bleaching powder and
water) and kept overnight for whiteness. This process is done by
machine or manually.
Step 2: Wax printing is done either
with the hand, using a brush or
with the blocks The table on which
printing is done is kept cool with
sand and water so that the wax
does not spread and the design
stays consistent throughout.
paraffin wax is melted and kept on
the stove .
Step 3: After the initial printing, the fabric is dipped in a color
fixer.
Step4: The fabric is then dipped in
dye for 10-15 minutes.
Step5: If only a single colour is required,
then after this the cloth can be dipped in
hot water so that the wax comes off and
one gets the required pattern and colour.
Step 6: If any white spots are left and one
doesn’t want that, then the fabric could
be dipped once more in any direct dye
(say yellow). This process is called
‘topping’.
Step 7: If one wants more patterns and
colors, reprinting could be done with wax
and the whole process is repeated again.
FINAL PRODUCT
 BATIK IN MARKET
From a handicraft, batik has acquired the status of an art. Batik is a
versatile medium that can become an ideal hobby for an amateur
or a medium of expression for an artist. As an art form it is quite
spontaneous and one can open up new vistas of creative form.
Until recently, batik was made for dresses and tailored garments
only but modern batik is livelier and brighter in the form of
murals, wall hangings, paintings, household linen and scarves. It
has been introduced in many areas as a source of income
generation where there isn’t a sustainable source of livelihood.
The market has increased in the last decade and there is more
product diversification and one can see batik on clothes, home
furnishings, fabric and paintings. Beads and mirrors are also added
to the fabric to give it a more decorative look. Sales are good in
metros like Mumbai, Bangalore and Delhi and other cities like
Baroda and Ahmadabad.