PERU The Insiders' Guide

Discover the best of Peru’s Andean treks, ancient

cultures, and jungle adventures with our local insiders.
 Contents
Overview
Contents

The Coast
Overview 3 Making the most of Machu Picchu 30
Top 10 experiences in Peru 3 Alternatives to the Inca Trail 32
Climate and weather 5 The Cordilleras 34
Where to stay 6 The Central Sierra 36
Getting around 8 Arequipa and the canyons 38

The Highlands
Peruvian cuisine 10 Lake Titicaca 40
Cultural highlights 11
Language and phrases 13 The Amazon 42
Responsible tourism 14 Exploring the selva 43
Travel safety and scams 15
Visa and vaccinations 17 Adventure 45 The Amazon
Hiking and trekking 46
The Coast 18 Surfing 48
48 hours in Lima 19 Rafting and kayaking 49
Trujillo and the north 21
Ica and the south 23 Essential insurance tips 51
Our contributors 53
Adventure

The Highlands 25 See our other guides 53

48 hours in Cusco 26 Need an insurance quote? 54
Day trips from Cusco 28

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Welcome! Equador
Colombia

Whether you’re pondering the

mysteries of an advanced ancient Iquitos
culture, trekking amid the Andes’
highest peaks, watching monkeys Kuelap
bound through the jungle, or Chiclayo Brazil
surfing a mile-long break, this

Contents
Trujillo Pucallpa
diverse country never fails to
amaze and inspire. Huanuco

LIMA
Machu Picchu

Our Insiders' Picks Ica Cusco

Overview
Bolivia
of the Top 10 Arequipa
Puno
Lake
Titicaca
Experiences in Peru
Sample Peru’s
world-class cuisine

The Coast
From classics like ceviche, to modern citadel of Choquequirao, which gets just
takes on traditional dishes, to tasty a handful of visitors each day. Or ride
fusions like Chifa (Chinese-Peruvian the newly opened cable car to Kuelap,
cuisine), Peru’s food scene is one of the a vast fortification perched in the cloud
world’s best. forest of northern Peru.

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Discover Peru’s other Skim down a sand dune
“Lost Cities” Adrenaline junkies should head to the
Avoid the crowds at Machu Picchu and mirage-like town of Huacachina, Peru’s
take a four-day trek to the mysterious ultimate sandboarding destination,
with slopes up to 1,968ft (600m) long. The Amazon
If you’re not a boarder, the dune buggy
rides are just as exhilarating.

Watch for pink dolphins

in the Amazon
With dense rainforest along its whole
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eastern border, Peru is a wildlife lover’s

dream, home to monkeys, otters,
exotic birds, and even jaguars. But only
Pink river dolphin
the Iquitos region lets you explore

3
the Amazon River itself, and see rare
creatures like the pink freshwater
If your idea
dolphin.
of heaven is
an endless
Surf the world’s longest
wave,
rideable left-hander
Chicama, on
If your idea of heaven is an endless wave,
the central-
Chicama, on the central-north coast, is
north coast,

Contents
blessed with a cold-water break that
is blessed
you can often ride for more than a mile
with a cold- Scissors Dance performer
(1.6km).
water break
that you can
Go on an epic rafting Peru, there always seems to be some
often ride
adventure kind of colorful celebration going on.
for more

Overview
Navigate the challenging Class IV and V But with two full weeks of dancing,
than a mile.
rapids of Cotahuasi Canyon, the world’s music, parades, and fireworks, Puno’s
deepest. Or drift through the wildlife- extravagant Fiesta de la Virgen de la
rich Tambopata Reserve in Peru’s Candelaria tops them all.
southern selva and camp out in the
jungle. Taste Pisco at South America’s

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oldest vineyard
Vamos de fiesta in Puno Pisco, a grape-based brandy, is Peru’s
In cities, towns, and villages across national spirit. There’s no better place
for an introduction than historic
Hacienda Bodega Tacama, where the

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vineyards are still irrigated by a canal
built by the Incas in the 15th century.

Trek to a sacred mountain

In Inca mythology, an apu was a
powerful mountain spirit – many of The Amazon
Peru’s highest and most iconic peaks are
apus, including Ausangate, Salkantay,
and of course, Machu Picchu itself.

Kayak at the top of the world

Lake Titicaca is the world’s highest
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navigable lake – a paddle on its sapphire-

blue waters is a magical experience
(and you’ll be able to see what those
White-water rafting
legendary floating islands are all about).

4
Climate
and Weather
Peru has a varied landscape,
with high mountains along its
spine, a long coastline to the
west, and rainforest to the east.
The weather and climate can

Contents
change drastically depending on
Huacachina at night
where you are in the country.

Best seasons for outdoor to mid-March, during the Peruvian

adventures “summer.” Try to avoid hiking in the
The best

Overview
The Peruvian winter is from May to highlands during this time as flash floods
time to visit
September. This is the ideal time to and burst river banks can create very
the jungle is
head out on hikes and other outdoor serious hazards.
from April to
adventures, since these are the driest The Inca Trail, the traditional route
December,
months in the Andes mountains. to Machu Picchu, is closed every year
with peak
However, it’s also the peak time for in February to prevent erosion. Machu

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times
tourism. Picchu is open all year round, but is
between
The exception to this is Lima, which is usually cloudy in the rainy season with
May and
usually foggy and gloomy between June poor visibility, so is best visited between
August.
and August, with low temperatures and April and October.
drizzle (but well worth visiting any time of The Amazon rainforest is always

The Highlands
year). wet and experiences rain throughout
The best time to visit the jungle is the year, but is at its wettest between
from April to December, with peak December and March. Some companies
times between May and August, when won’t offer camping trips during this
temperatures often exceed 86°F (30°C), period.
although some say that the rainy season The Amazon
is best as it makes it easier to spot wildlife Low season in Peru
gathering on the dry areas of land. The months from September to
December to March are the warmest November and March to May tend to be
months on the coast, so head to the a good time to visit Peru; it’s technically
beach to explore Lima and the coastal low season but the weather is relatively
reserve at Paracas, or take surf lessons in good, and fewer tourists means lower
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Huanchaco or Mancora. prices.

However, don’t let the weather dictate
Peru’s rainy season all your plans, as Peruvian weather can
The rainy season is from December be variable at any time of the year.

5
Where
to Stay
From hostels and homestays
to luxury hotels, Peru offers a
wide range of accommodation,
whatever your budget.

Contents
Most travelers have to spend at least
one night in Lima after arriving at Jorge
Chavez International Airport in Callao.
The majority of hotels are in the districts
of Miraflores, San Isidro, and Barranco.

Overview
Outside of Lima, you can experience
everything from remote mountain huts
Amazon jungle lodge
to thatched-roof jungle lodges.

Traveler tips so look for signs advertising agua

A good rule of thumb when booking caliente.

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Peru offers
accommodation in Peru is not to Be aware that many places don't
a variety
make any assumptions. Double check speak English (especially outside
of hostels
whether you can pay with credit card of Lima and Cusco), so you need to
that cater
and make sure to ask about Wi-Fi. either find a place that has reviews
to different
Outside of the bigger cities, attesting to the owners speaking

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types of
accommodation tends to be more English, be ready to fumble through
guests.
informal, and you might not be able to an interaction, or know at least a
find a website to make a reservation. moderate amount of Spanish.
In rural areas, hot water is not a given,
Hostels
Peru offers a variety of hostels that The Amazon
cater to different types of guests.
They can be a great way to meet other
travelers and can help you set up
tours and activities. In Lima, a bed in
a shared dorm room starts at S/. 39-
47 (US $12-15) and private rooms are
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around S/. 114 (US $35). If you aren’t

a solo traveler, sometimes a private
room in a hostel is just as economical
Typical cabana in an Amazon jungle lodge
as a shared dorm.

6
 Prices in Cusco are around S/. 26-32
(US $8-10) for a shared dorm and S/.
91 (US $28) for a private room with
a shared bathroom. You’ll also find
specialty hostels such as mountain
huts when you are trekking in areas
like Huaraz and the Sacred Valley.

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Hotels
Farm in the Sacred Valley
You can find budget hotels from S/. 81
(US $25) and up. These might be better
deals than hostels if you’re traveling to get better deals if you book last
in a group. Many hotels will also offer minute. However, it can be hard to
an airport shuttle if you ask ahead discern exactly what you’re getting.

Overview
of time. If you have a little bit more Make sure you ask a lot of questions,
money to spend, you can often find such as which activities are included
good deals on nicer accommodation, and whether or not the guides are
especially outside of Lima. English-speaking.
Expect to pay around S/. 650-810
Homestays (US $200-250) per person for a basic

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Homestays are most common in rural two-to-three-night package. (S/. 3,890
areas. If you’re interested in staying or US $1,200 wouldn’t be unheard of
with a local family, there are several for some of the five-star lodges).
homestay options on the islands on
Lake Titicaca and in the Sacred Valley, General Cost Guide

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but make sure you find a travel agency Peru is a great option for budget travelers, especially outside of big cities
or operator that has you pay the and major tourist destinations. Food is both delicious and cheap – even
more so if you avoid touristy restaurants in neighborhoods like Miraflores.
families directly to ensure they are
Set lunch, called “menu”: S/. 13-19 (US $4-6)
being fairly compensated.
Sit-down restaurant meal: S/. 65 (US $20)
Shared dormitory: S/. 26-47 (US $8-15)
Jungle lodges The Amazon
Private room in a hostel: S/. 91-114 (US $28-35)
One of the highlights of Peru are the
Budget hotel: S/. 81 (US $25) and up
Amazon jungle lodges in destinations
Jungle lodge: S/. 650-810 (US $200-250) per person for a basic two-to-
like Iquitos and Puerto Maldonado.
three night package
These range from high-end luxury
Airport taxi (Lima): S/. 50 (US $16)
establishments to very rustic
Airport taxi (Cusco): S/. 30 (US $9.25)
accommodation.
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Rapid transit bus ride: S/. 2.50 ($0.75 US)

As most of the lodges are fairly
Long-haul bus, Lima to Cusco: S/. 227 (US $70)
remote, most bookings will include
Long-haul bus, Lima to Arequipa: S/. 130-195 (US $40-60)
all meals. You’ll typically pay more if
Budget domestic flight: Under S/. 324 (US $100)
you book ahead of time – it’s possible

7
Getting
Around
Lima is usually the first stop
on most travelers’ itineraries.
From the Peruvian capital,
you can easily travel to other
major destinations such as

Contents
Cusco, Arequipa, and Puno by
plane and long-haul bus.

Airport
When you land in Lima, the cheapest

Overview
and safest option if you are staying in
Miraflores is to take the new airport
Public transport in Lima
bus, which costs S/. 26 (US $8) one way.
For more than one person, it might be
worth taking an official taxi for around face bumper-to-bumper traffic with
S/. 50 (US $16), which should take unspoken rules of the road that are

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Taxis are
between 50 minutes and 1.5 hours only known to locals. Stop signs,
by far the
depending on the time of day and crosswalks, and speed limits seem
easiest
traffic. The ten-minute taxi ride from to be mere suggestions. Outside of
and most
the airport in Cusco to the city center Lima, be prepared for less-than-well-
comfortable
should cost around S/. 30 (US $9.25). maintained roads, especially when you

The Highlands
way to get
get off the major highways. You also
around cities.
Rental cars want to avoid driving on rural roads
The safest
Renting a car in Peru is only for the after dark due to lack of lighting and
option is
very brave who are prepared to hidden potholes.
to ask your
hotel or
Taxis restaurant The Amazon
Taxis are by far the easiest and most
to call a cab
comfortable way to get around cities.
for you, or
The safest option is to ask your hotel
use an app
or restaurant to call a cab for you,
like Uber,
or use an app like Uber, EasyTaxi, or
EasyTaxi, or
TaxiBeat.
TaxiBeat.
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If you want to take a taxi on

the street, ask a local how much it
should cost to go to your destination.
Collectivo
Negotiate the fare before you get in,

8
 There is also a confusing system of
vans and microbuses, called combis,
that feature a guy leaning out the
door, shouting various destinations.
Those always entail an adventure, and
might be best left to the locals.

Long-haul buses

Contents
For inter-city travel, Peru’s long-haul
buses are quite comfortable and
inexpensive. It’s usually worth paying
an extra S/. 65 (US $20) for a “bus-
cama” VIP seat, i.e. a “bus bed” that
reclines flat. But, the windy, slow-

Overview
going roads through the mountains
can mean very long travel times
Traffic in downtown Cusco
despite relatively short distances.
The bus ride from Lima to Cusco,
as taxis are not metered. If a driver for example, is upwards of 20 hours,
inflates the price, wave him on and while a flight takes less than two

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there will be another one behind hours. The trip costs approximately
him waiting for your fare. There is no S/. 227 (US $70). Lima to Arequipa
expectation to tip. takes 17 hours and costs S/. 130-195
(US $40-60).
Public transportation in Lima

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Lima has a well-maintained rapid Internal flights
transit bus system, the Metropolitano, For those short on time, it’s usually
which runs north and south between worth it to splurge a bit for internal
the city’s main districts. You first need flights. LATAM is the main national
to buy a travel card for S/. 4.5 (US airline, but travelers should beware
$1.40), which you can then top up at all that it often advertises cut-rate prices The Amazon
Metropolitano bus stations. A single for Peruvian residents. As a foreigner
ride should cost S/. 2.50 (US $0.75). without a residence permit, you’d
There are regular and express buses, need to pay an extra S/. 243 (US $75)
so make sure your bus stops at the each way if you accidently book a
station you need. Note that the red resident fare.
seats are reserved for the elderly, There are several budget carriers,
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disabled, and pregnant. As most of such as Peruvian Airlines, LC Peru,

Lima’s ten million residents use public and Star Peru, that offer reasonable
transportation, avoid traveling at rush domestic flights for less than S/. 324
hour. (US $100).

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Peruvian
Cuisine
The best way to start a
conversation with a Peruvian is
to talk about the food, of which
they are understandably proud.

Contents
Chef Gaston Acurio helped put Peruvian Potatoes for sale in Arequipa
cuisine on the gastronomic map, but it’s
the country’s biodiversity and unique onions to more creative interpretations.
mix of cultural influences that really A typical side dish is papa a la huancaína
make its cuisine stand out. It’s the (potatoes with huancaína sauce). And

Overview
Sampling Peru’s culinary spread is a country’s for the adventurous, there’s cuy, roasted
little like taking a tour of the country’s biodiversity guinea pig.
three main environments: mountains, and unique
coast, and jungle. Peru has also had mix of Modern cuisine
waves of immigrants from Spain, Africa, Lima has a fantastic restaurant scene.
cultural
and Asia, who have all made their mark Just one of many options, Panchita will

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influences
on the country’s culinary identity. introduce you to classics like anticuchos,
that really
make its adobo (an Arequipan speciality), aji de
What to eat in Peru cuisine stand gallina, and pachamanca. Amaz offers
Peruvian food is generally hearty. Many out a modern take on jungle dishes such
dishes contain meat and potatoes as tacacho and cecina (a kind of bacon).

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– over 4,000 varieties grow in the To check out Gaston Acurio’s food
Andes – and Peruvians don’t consider a empire, book a table at internationally-
meal complete without plenty of rice. renowned Astrid & Gaston or the slightly
Peruvian food is not typically spicy; many less expensive Tanta, which also has a
dishes contain the flavors of aji chili and location in Arequipa.
rocoto peppers, but not always the heat. The Amazon
Must-try drinks
Traditional dishes Don’t miss the most famous Peruvian
The most common – and arguably drink – the Pisco sour. Or join the locals
most traditional – dishes are lomo and sip a chilcano, typically made with
saltado, marinated beef with onions and Pisco, lime, and ginger ale. Like wine,
tomatoes, and pollo a la brasa, chicken there are enough varieties of Pisco
Adventure

typically roasted over a wood fire. to suit every palate and budget. For
Seafood lovers will rejoice at the myriad a classic Pisco bar, check out Antigua
of ceviche options, from the classic lime- Taberna Queirolo in the residential Lima
juice marinated fish with aji and red neighborhood of Pueblo Libre.

10
Cultural
Highlights
In every region of this varied
land you’ll find remnants of
the past, from the secrets of
ancient civilizations to some
of the best cultural festivals in

Contents
South America.

Top archaeological
destinations
Peru has preserved much of its ancient

Overview
history to astound visitors. If you’re
fascinated by the achievements of
Inti Raymi festival, Cusco
centuries-old civilizations, these sites
should be on your itinerary.
(3,050m) in the cloud forests of northern
Machu Picchu Peru, this fortified citadel was built by

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Located
Long regarded as the cultural stop in the Chachapoyas people. Round houses,
between the
Peru, and indeed South America, the battlements, and steep staircases are
provinces
ancient city of Machu Picchu is almost too hidden inside the walls of this impressive
of Nazca
popular. In recent years, limits have been structure thought to have once been
and Palpa,
set on the number of visitors who can home to 3,000 inhabitants.

The Highlands
this unusual
explore the ruins in an effort to preserve
ancient
this UNESCO World Heritage site. Carajía cultural
Nonetheless, it’s a magical place and one In the Utcubamba Valley, about 30mi
highlight is
of the world’s most iconic destinations. (50km) from Chachapoyas, Carajía is the
best seen
site of impressive sarcophagi. These
from the air.
Caral giant coffins, standing eight feet tall, The Amazon
Peru’s most ancient site is located 124mi are located above a river gorge and are
(200km) from Lima in the Peruvian remarkably well preserved.
desert. Covering over 1,546 acres (626
hectares), this site features pyramid- Nazca lines
shaped structures and circular courts. At Located between the provinces of Nazca
5,000 years old it’s the oldest center of and Palpa, this unusual ancient cultural
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civilization in the Americas. highlight is best seen from the air. The
enormous geoglyphs were left in the
Kuelap desert over an area of 193 mi2 (500 km2)
Located at an elevation of 10,000ft by the Nazca civilization. The hundreds

11
 Ancient
Cultures of
Peru
Though the Incas,
who built Machu
Picchu, are the
best known, Peru
has been home to
a wide range of
ancient civilizations

Contents
and cultures:
Chachapoyas
Also called the
“warriors of
Caral
the clouds,” the
Chachapoyas people
pre-date the Incas

Overview
of designs feature human and animal crucifixes, and dancing – most notably and lived in the
depictions and geometric patterns the scissors dance, which used to be Amazonas Region
between 900 and
which were made over 1,500 years ago. performed perilously on top of church
1450 AD.
bell towers!
Inca
Cultural festivals For a week in November, Puno is The mighty Inca
Although much of Peru's history is the most festive place to be. Follow civilization was the

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largest ever in the
found in its ancient settlements, many the procession from Lake Titicaca
Americas and the
traditional festivals are still held today as Peruvians celebrate the first Inca largest in the world
and are well worth experiencing. emperor with music and dancing. at the time they
Otherwise known as the “Celebration ruled.

of the Sun,” Inti Raymi takes place in the Social etiquette Nazca

The Highlands
The Nazca people
Fortress of Sacsayhuaman above Cuzco and local customs lived on the
on June 24th each year. Actors recreate Peruvians are rightly proud of their southern coast
the historical significance of praising culture. Drinking coca tea or chewing between 200 BC
and 600 AD. They’re
Inti, the sun god, and lead a procession the leaves of the coca plant is an
known for those
to the fortress where offerings are important tradition and not akin to mysterious lines
made. recreational drug use, so speak about drawn in the desert The Amazon
and for their pottery.
Ayacucho, in the south-central this practice with reverence.
Chavin
Andes, is the setting for an annual, You’ll likely take lots of photos
This civilization lived
weekend-long Carnaval Ayacuchano during your trip, but it’s always polite in the northern
in February/March, which features a to request permission when you have and central Andes
parade of dancers and musicians in people as subjects in your pictures – a between 900 and
200 BC. They were
traditional costumes marching to the tip is sometimes appreciated.
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amazing artists
Plaza de Armas. Refusing a dinner invitation is also with a penchant for
Across the country, the Fiesta de regarded as bad manners. With all the imagery of wild cats
and other fanged
la Cruz (festival of the cross) features delicious flavors of Peruvian cuisine, this
creatures.
folk music, processions with decorated is an easy custom to respect.

12
Language
and phrases
English is not widely spoken
outside tourist areas. Luckily,
the Peruvian Spanish accent
is relatively easy for Spanish-
language beginners to

Contents
understand.

Introductions and greetings

Hello Hola

Overview
My name is… Me llamo...
How are you? ¿Cómo estás?
Locals on Taquile
Nice to meet you Mucho gusto
Good morning Buenos días
Good afternoon Buenas tardes Continue Sigue
Good night Buenas noches Where is the bathroom? ¿Donde esta el

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baño?
Everyday travel phrases
Do you speak English? ¿Habla Inglés? Ordering and shopping
I don’t speak Spanish No hablo Español I would like to order… Me gustaría

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Can I take your picture? ¿Le puedo pedir….
tomar una foto? How much does this cost? ¿Cuánto
Can you take my picture? ¿Me puedes cuesta esto?
tomar una foto? The bill, please La cuenta, por favor
Please Por favor
Excuse me Disculpe
Medical and emergencies The Amazon
Thank you Gracias
Help me! ¡Socorro!
You’re welcome De nada
I need a doctor Necesito un doctor
I have altitude sickness Tengo soroche
Basic directions I need a pharmacy Necesito una
I am lost Estoy perdido/a farmacia
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To the right A la derecha Where is the tourism police? ¿Dónde

To the left A la izquierda está la oficina de la Policía de Turismo?
Stop (verb) Pare I have an emergency Tengo una
Stop (noun) Parada emergencia

13
Responsible starting to feel the wear and tear of
mass tourism – over 1.4 million people
Tourism
Several
visited this UNESCO World Heritage organizations
site in 2016. Fortunately, there are offer short-
Tourism is on the rise in this several lesser known but highly and long-term
extraordinary Andean country. worthwhile archaeological sites in Peru volunteer
Here’s how to minimize your that you don’t have to share with 2,500 opportunities
impact. other visitors. and

Contents
One example is Choquequirao, internships in
Use less plastic Peru’s second lost city – Hiram Bingham Lima, Cusco,
You can’t drink the tap water in Peru, stumbled across it in 1909, two years the Sacred
but you can reduce the number of before he found Machu Picchu. But Valley, and
plastic bottles you throw away by because it requires a four-day trek to the Amazon.
buying water in bulk and refilling a get there and back, more people visit

Overview
reusable bottle. Machu Picchu in a single day than visit
Choquequirao in an entire year. Only
Volunteer about 30-40 percent of the site has
Several organizations offer short- and been uncovered, leaving plenty of
long-term volunteer opportunities and mysteries to unravel.
internships in Lima, Cusco, the Sacred Currently, the only way to access

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Valley, and the Amazon. Opportunities Choquequirao is by foot, but the
include teaching English and working Peruvian government has announced
with conservation initiatives. Make plans to build a road and a cable car.
sure the organizations work closely The most common starting point is
with the local community and are the village of Cachora, a four-hour bus

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responsive to local needs. ride from Cusco. To support the local
economy, hire a local guide in Cachora
Support local artisans rather than one in Cusco.
Whenever possible, visit artisans’ Kuelap, located in region of
workshops and buy directly from Amazonas near the village of Tingo,
them. For ethically-sourced handcrafts, is also a great alternative to Machu The Amazon
visit these shops in Barranco in Lima: Picchu. This huge fortified city was built
Dédalo, Artesanos Don Bosco, and around 800 AD by the Chachapoyas
Artesanias Las Pallas. In Cusco, visit culture, and is thought to be the largest
the non-profit Centro de Textiles stone ruin in the New World. Just
Tradicionales. You’ll pay more, but the getting here used to be quite a journey,
shops ensure artisans receive a fair but flights now run from Lima to Jaen,
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price for their work. about four to five hours by ground

transportation from Kuelap. A newly
Alternatives to Machu Picchu opened cable car takes visitors up to
The most famous Incan ruins are the ruins from Nuevo Tingo.

14
Safety
and Scams
The Peruvian government
is working hard to protect
tourists and is actively pursuing
the criminals who target them
– but travelers should still be

Contents
on guard against petty crime,
muggings, and scams.

Crime
Peru’s penchant for petty thievery is

Overview
infamous. This doesn't mean you need
to be forever clutching your valuables to
Central Cusco at night
your chest, but you should practice your
street smarts.
Register your passport at the embassy reported in Lima, Arequipa, and Cusco.
in Lima (this can save you days of Avoid walking in dark, quiet areas by

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Credit card
precious holiday time if your documents yourself, especially at night. Even if you're
fraud is
are lost or stolen). Don't carry more cash traveling with a group, it's a good idea to
widespread
than you need for the day, keep cameras take a taxi after sundown.
in Peru, so
packed away when not in use, and don’t Armed criminals have also been known
always keep
leave bags or purses where they can be to target foreigners while cruising in the

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your card in
easily snatched. Amazon region. Check with your cruise
sight when
company or boat tour operator what
making
Scams their security arrangements are. Many
purchases.
Credit card fraud is widespread in Peru, have armed police on board their vessels
so always keep your card in sight when 24/7 for the safety of passengers and
making purchases. If the shop assistant staff. The Amazon
is taking too long to give you a receipt,
there's a good chance they’re skimming Kidnapping
your card. Keep an eye on suspicious “Express kidnappings,” where travelers
transactions in your bank account while are forced to extract money from various
traveling and after you arrive home. ATMs, have become more frequent. In
most cases, the victim is released quickly
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Muggings after the withdrawal limit is reached.

The Sacsayhuaman ruins overlooking Having a separate traveling account you
Cusco are notorious for muggings, so can top-up as needed means you won't
go in a group. Muggings have also been be left penniless if this happens to you.

15
 The capital, Lima, is the most accepting
of LGBTQ people. Beyond that, the
tourist towns of Cuzco, Arequipa, and
Trujillo tend to be more tolerant than
the norm. It must be noted that the
rainbow flag often seen around Cuzco
and the Andes is not a gay pride flag: It's
the flag of the Inca empire.

Contents
Peru’s Tourism Police
Terpsichore

Ayahuasca preparation
If you are the victim of theft or assault,
the Policia de Turismo (Tourism Police)
Women’s safety should be your first port of call.
Female tourists can feel generally Established specially to protect you

Overview
confident while in Peru, but should and the lucrative tourism industry, they
expect to draw some attention, speak at least some English and are
especially if traveling alone. trained in handling all sorts of crimes
Be aware of the possibility of drink against tourists.
spiking – hallucinogenic plants have Due to a string of false reporting of
been used to render tourists senseless theft around tourist spots, you may be

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before a robbery or assault. Never leave questioned quite sternly about your
your drink unattended and don't drink testimony. Don't take offense – they're
anything you didn't buy yourself, or at just doing their job. Being polite and
least see poured. cooperative is the best way to speed up
the process and get you back to your

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LGBTQ travel safety holiday.
Peruvians tolerate homosexuality
among foreign visitors. However, the
situation for locals remains a struggle, Ayahuasca
Sacred to the indigenous people of the Amazon, the brew made from the
which is why many LGBTQ Peruvians
ayahuasca vine has been used in traditional ceremonies administered by
don't publicly identify as homosexual. shamans for thousands of years. The Amazon
Although homosexuality is legal, While many travelers seek ayahuasca retreats in order to find
same-sex marriage is not. While gays enlightenment, there have been several cases in recent years where things
have gone very wrong, resulting in psychotic damage, crimes against others,
and lesbians can serve openly in the
and even death.
military and transgender people can
Ayahuasca retreats in South America are largely unregulated. Retreats which
legally change their gender, Peru – with tend to have safeguards in place aren’t cheap, but you are putting your life in
strong ties to Catholicism – remains their hands. Reputable retreats will offer many services and safety measures
Adventure

a deeply conservative and traditional such as advance health screening of guests, numerous well-trained female
and male staff on hand, and plenty of post-ceremony support.
society.
If you do plan to take a retreat, read reviews, do the research, and ask as
Public displays of affection among many questions of the venue as possible.
same-sex couples are highly unusual.

16
Visas and areas and in the coastal areas north
of Chiclayo. Wear long trousers and
Vaccinations
When you
sleeves around dusk and dawn, and
arrive in
plenty of insect repellent, especially
A country that features both
Cusco,
in low altitude and jungle areas.
especially if
tropical jungle and multiple You might also consider bringing a
you’re flying
peaks above 20,600ft (6,300m) mosquito net.
in from lower
will require a little advance
elevations,
planning to visit.

Contents
Altitude sickness take a few
Altitude or elevation sickness can occur days to
Visa requirements in highland areas, including Cusco. The acclimatize.
Visitors from most countries do not Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu reaches
need a visa to enter Peru for tourism, over 13,800ft (4,000m) above sea
but your passport should be valid for at level, so if you plan to hike here or in

Overview
least six months to avoid problems at other mountain areas, make sure your
the airport. The length of stay granted insurance covers high-altitude trekking.
ranges from 30 to 183 days, and can’t When you arrive in Cusco, especially
usually be extended. if you’re flying in from lower elevations,
If you’re coming into Peru by land, take a few days to acclimatize. Some
make sure you get both an exit stamp shortness of breath and fatigue

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from the country you are leaving and is normal, and your body should
an entry stamp into Peru from each naturally adjust to the thinner air. The
appropriate immigration office, or you prescription medication acetazolamide
may run into issues later on. (Diamox) can help prevent and treat
the effects of elevation sickness.

The Highlands
Vaccinations Drink plenty of water, and avoid
There are no specific vaccines required alcohol and smoking, as these both
to enter Peru, but hepatitis A and make the effects worse. Ibuprofen
tetanus are strongly recommended, or paracetamol can help with mild
and hepatitis B, rabies, tuberculosis, headaches, but if you feel sick or
typhoid, and yellow fever are also become dizzy or disoriented, seek The Amazon
recommended to stay on the safe side.. medical help immediately.
In particular, a yellow fever vaccine Altitude sickness can, in extreme
is recommended if you are traveling cases, be fatal, so let someone know if
beyond Lima, Cusco, Machu Picchu you feel unwell.
and the Inca Trail, or below 7,546ft
(2,300m). Proof of vaccination may Trip preparation
Adventure

be required before re-entry to your Make an appointment with your doctor

country of residence. at least six weeks before you travel
There is a potential risk from zika, to discuss vaccinations, anti-malarial
and a low risk of malaria in the Amazon medication, and Diamox.

17
 Contents
Overview
The Coast
The Highlands
THE COAST HH

The Amazon

F
rom the cosmopolitan capital city of Lima, to
the laid-back surf towns and ancient citadels of
the north, to the soaring sand dunes and rustic
Pisco bodegas in the south, Peru’s coast is one long
Adventure

adventure – 1,500mi (2,414km) long, to be exact.

18
THE COAST

48 Hours
in Lima
With an internationally
renowned foodie culture,
plenty of history, and genuinely
great waves, there’s no better
spot than Lima to discover the

Contents
local’s Peru.

Lima’s historic center

Originally built to be Spain’s colonial
capital in South America, Lima boasts

Overview
some impressive architecture.
At the UNESCO Heritage site Plaza
Pueblo Libre district, Lima
San Martin, you’ll find the luxurious
El Gran Hotel Bolivar, visited by the
likes of Hemingway and Walt Disney. ancient seven-platformed pyramid
Officially a national monument, El in the middle of Miraflores, Then, hit

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At the
Bolivar also serves the largest Pisco the Mercado Indio for alpaca goods
UNESCO
Sour in the city. or Agua y Tierra for souvenirs from
Heritage
Walk down Jirón de la Uníon, the Amazon.
site Plaza
a historical meeting point for
San Martin,
intellectuals, until you hit the Plaza Barranco

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you’ll find
de Armas, the old town’s main This is Lima's bohemian
the luxurious
square. During the Fiestas Patrias on neighbourhood. Begin with a visit to
El Gran Hotel
July 28th (Independence Day) it’s full the Museum of Modern Art, followed
Bolivar,
of dancing, parades, and fireworks. by a stroll along the seafront.
visited by
Enjoy the colorful buildings and
the likes of
Miraflores street art while you munch on
Hemingway The Amazon
Hop on one of the city’s modern picarones – Peru’s famous, donut-like
and Walt
buses to Lima’s most fashionable street food – before heading to the
Disney.
neighborhood, packed with famous Bajada de Baños for sunset.
restaurants, outdoor offerings, and a When your stomach grumbles,
thriving nightlife. make a beeline for La Picanteria in
Bike along the Malécon for Surquillo, a hideaway with some of
Adventure

unrivaled ocean views, then head the city’s best seafood. Or try Insolina
down to the beach for a surf at Punta for comida criollo, an eclectic fusion
Roquitas. of cuisines that’s Peruvian food like
Next, check out Huaca Pucllana, an grandma used to make.

19
THE COAST

Nightlife
After dinner, party-goers descend on National
Plaza Kennedy in Miraflores, where Ceviche Day
you’ll find the city’s hippest bars. is June 28th,
La Emolientería is one of the most but any day
popular local haunts, or for a unique is perfect to
experience try a peña – they’re late enjoy this
night cabarets hosting traditional tangy, citrus-

Contents
music, dance, and comedy. De Rompe cooked
y Raja is quite authentic. seafood dish.
Miraflores coastline
End your night at Ayahuasca, a
three-story colonial mansion-turned-
bar that’s a traveler favorite. regularly stop at Chez Wong’s to enjoy
the iconic dish from its working-class

Overview
Shopping roots.
The next morning, perk up with a cup Wash down lunch with another
of emoliente, a traditional elixir of Peruvian classic – the Pisco Sour. The
quinoa, aloe, pollen, and local herbs Antigua Taberna Queirolo (aka El
sold at street carts. After breakfast at Queirolo) is a well-loved watering hole
the hip El Pan de la Chola, it’s time to in Pueblo Libre that’s been serving

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shop. Piscos since the 1880’s. You’ll be
Start in San Isidro, an upscale area nearby the Gran Mercado Artesanal if
neighborhood full of boutiques to you’re still souvenir hunting.
peruse. Bibliophiles will swoon over
El Virrey’s vintage book room stocked Catacombs, Chinatown, Where to

The Highlands
with rare editions. Then head to and ceramics stay in Lima
Dédalo, a colonial casona filled with Walk off your Piscos underground Barranco
Second Home, a
unique contemporary crafts and a on a tour of the Catacombs of San
five-room casona
back-patio bar, or try the funky art Francisco de Lima Basilica, lined with with a swimming
gallery and boutique Vernácula in bones arranged in geometric patterns. pool and ocean
Barranco. Then take a stroll through Barrio views
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Chino, Lima’s Chinatown, for Chinese Casa Nuestra,
a colorful hotel-
Peruvian classics architecture and a host of incredible
esque homestay
National Ceviche Day is June 28th, but Chifa restaurants (that’s Chinese- with roof terrace
any day is perfect to enjoy this tangy, Peruvian cuisine). and breakfast

citrus-cooked seafood dish. Wait in No trip is complete without a stop Miraflores

Residencial
line for Ceviche de Mero at La Paisana at the Larco Museum. This private
Adventure

Miraflores, an
(open only for lunch), or make the trek collection of pre-Columbian art is also eight suite B&B
out to Chez Wong’s, a tiny eatery that home to the world's largest collection with high ceilings
might be the best cevicheria in Lima. of erotic ceramics – a unique way to and family-style
breakfast
Peruvian dignitaries and celebrities end your stay in Lima.

20
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Trujillo and
the North
From famous surf breaks to
ancient cities, the northern
coast of Peru is a dreamscape
for the adventurous traveler. ?

Contents
Trujillo
Beyond the shopping malls and noisy
sprawl of Peru’s third largest city are
the modestly preserved remnants of its
glamourous colonial past.

Overview
Ventanillas de Combayo
Poke your head into the courtyards
and restaurants near the Plaza de Armas
to discover fading frescos, white-gloved Dama de Cao
waiters, and other tokens of Trujillo’s This stunning museum houses the
former sugar-cane wealth. mummified remains of a high priestess
If cities aren’t your thing, go who ruled the Moche of the Chicama

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This town is
sandboarding at the Laguna de Conache, Valley. You can see her elaborately
famous for
about 40 minutes away. Take a combi tattooed body through a trippy
having the
(public van) for a few dollars or join a day- arrangement of mirrors. It’s worth
longest wave
tour for about S/. 65 (US $20). getting a private taxi for around S/.150
in the world,
(US $46) plus the S/. 10 (US $3) entrance

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accessible
Chan Chan fee, or join a tour from Huanchaco or
to almost
The largest pre-Columbian city in the Trujillo for S/. 50 (US $15.50).
every level
Americas feels like a graphic designer’s
of surfer.
fantasy. Sea-themed geometric patterns Chicama
adorn streets, walls, and plazas where This town is famous for having the
60,000 Chimú people once lived. It’s S/. 10 longest wave in the world, accessible to The Amazon
(US $3) to get in, or join a tour in Trujillo almost every level of surfer. There’s some
that includes other ancient temples for splurge-worth accommodation in this
around S/. 40 (US $12.30). otherwise sleepy fishing village.

Huanchaco Pacasmayo
Credited as the 5,000-year-old birthplace One of the best-preserved colonial
Adventure

of surfing, Huanchaco has an easygoing town centers in Peru is off the radar of
vibe that makes it a comfortable base most travelers. Colorful buildings line
for exploring the area or learning to surf. the waterfront, which is a kite-surfer’s
Prepare to stay far longer than planned. playground.

21
THE COAST

Cajamarca
This ancient city is best known for
Peru’s finest cheeses, mushrooms, and
dulce-de-leche, but it’s also where the
Incan ruler Atahualpa was executed by
conquistador Francisco Pizarro.
Visit the eerie funerary enclosures
carved into cliffs at the Ventanillas de

Contents
Otuzco and Cambayo, and relax at the
Incan baths, Cajamarca
popular Banos del Inca hot springs,
where you can rent a private pool by the
half hour. civilizations are known as “Purgatory” by
the locals. You won’t find any night tours
Kuelap of this site thanks to a long history of
Travelers

Overview
Travelers seeking the beauty of Machu creepy vibes, starting with conquistadors
seeking
Picchu without the crowds head to throwing non-believers to their deaths
the beauty
this vast stone fortification perched from the top.
of Machu
in the cloud forest. It houses over
Picchu
450 structures built by the pre-Incan Lobitos
without
Chachapoya people. If you’re looking for a ghost town vibe a

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the crowds
Hike for four hours and 4,921ft (1,500m) la an old Western film, this out-of-the-
head to this
up from Tingo Viejo or take a cable car way surfer’s paradise will not disappoint.
vast stone
through 20 minutes of breathtaking Experienced surfers will find a variety
fortification
Andean vistas for S/. 20 soles (US $6) plus of fast and barrelly lefts, and beginner
perched in
another S/. 20 entrance fee. lessons are also available.

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the cloud
forest.
Lambayeque and Sipan Catacaos
Most travelers miss out on the charming This bustling market of regional goods is
streets and famous King Kong cakes northern Peru’s answer to the handicraft
of Lambayeque on their way to the heaven of Cusco. You’ll find excellent
shamanistic mercado de brujos in Chiclayo. hammocks, leather goods, straw hats, The Amazon
Stay in a restored colonial hotel baskets, and silver.
near the main square and walk to the
museum of Sipan, a wealthy lord of the Mancora
Moche people who was buried with his Peru’s party-happy head here for
entire family, entourage of guards, and the waves and year-round sun. The
treasures beyond a grave robber’s wildest mangroves of Tumbes are a short
Adventure

dreams. trip away and worth exploring with a

qualified guide. For quiet relaxation, Los
Tucume Organos, El Ñuro, or El Colan are the
These layered pyramids built by several prettiest beaches on the North Coast.

22
THE COAST

Ica and the

South
Hidden desert oases, ancient
geoglyphs, and rustic Pisco
bodegas make this a uniquely
unmissable part of Peru.

Contents
The line of dusty towns along Peru’s
southern coast might not look like much
upon first inspection, but explore them
and you’ll find enough cultural and
adventure activities to keep even the

Overview
most adrenaline-fueled travelers’ blood
pumping.
Cathedral Rock Formation, Paracas National Reserve

Wildlife in Paracas
Straight down the Pan American entrance.
Highway from Lima, the town of Pisco There are camping facilities here, but

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Home to
doesn’t offer much of interest – most check in with the park ranger for safety
Peru’s
visitors bypass it for neighboring updates, as robberies have been known
national
Paracas. From here, two-hour speed in the reserve.
spirit, Ica’s a
boats (S/. 50 or US $15.30) skim across
great place
the waves to Islas Ballestas. Dubbed the Bodegas in Ica

The Highlands
to spend an
“Poor Man’s Galapagos,” these rocky Home to Peru’s national spirit, Ica’s
afternoon
islands are a riot of toddling Humboldt a great place to spend an afternoon
learning
penguins, dozing sea lions, colonies of learning about and tasting the local
about and
rare blue-footed boobies, and lots of tipple. 20 minutes away by taxi,
tasting the
stinky guano. Hacienda Bodega Tacama, the oldest
local tipple.
As the boats skirt around the rocks, vineyard and Pisco producer in South The Amazon
keep an eye on the water, too: between America, has tours to suit everyone,
August and October, you might spot from wine aficionado to Pisco virgin.
Humpback whales.
Across the bay, the barren dunes of Sandboards in Huacachina
Reserva Nacional Paracas are similarly For a more active adventure, it’s a
remarkable for wildlife: over 200 bird ten-minute taxi journey from Ica to
Adventure

species, including Chilean flamingos, the mirage-like town of Huacachina.

have been sighted. The best viewing is A disorientating array of hostels and
at dawn at the bay outside the museum, restaurants have sprung up around a
located 1.5mi (2.5km) from the main small lagoon wedged between sand

23
THE COAST

no one really knows why.

Skip the viewpoint 12.5mi (20km) One of
north of Nazca – the lines are far better Peru’s most
seen from the air. 30-minute, five- recognizable
seater airplane trips (S/. 261 or US $80) ancient
take you over 13 shapes, including a landmarks,
hummingbird and a condor. Visibility is the
better and turbulence less likely before mysterious,

Contents
around 10:30am, when the haze starts UNESCO
to obscure the lines. World
Hummingbird figure, Nazca Lines
Be sure to research reputable airlines Heritage
in Nazca, as it’s not worth risking your Nazca lines
dunes. While it’s less of an oasis of life to save a few soles. comprise 300
calm than previously, it remains Peru’s geometric

Overview
ultimate sandboarding destination. Adventures in Lunahuaná shapes
Tours (S/. 50 or US $15.30 for two A slice of green in the barren desert, carved into
hours) strap you into a 4x4 dune buggy, Lunahuaná runs parallel to the ribbon- the desert
which speeds across the desert before like Río Cañete. by a long-
letting you out to skim down the dunes Though a newcomer on Peru’s tourist vanished
on a board. Sand isn’t soft like snow, so scene, this action-packed village is one culture.

The Coast
start slowly and don’t be cocky – you’ll of the top playgrounds for white water
save yourself some painful bruises. rafting in the whole continent. Expect
If you’re happier on two feet, stretch everything from Class III to V rapids, and
your legs with a 20-minute climb to to pay S/. 100 (US $30.60) for a day’s
the dune above the town, where you tour. Horse-riding trips (S/. 25 or US

The Highlands
can watch the otherworldly landscape $7.65) and canopy zip lines (S/. 40 or US
disappearing into the hazy dusk at $12.25) are also on offer in the valley.
sunset, or the spray of sand as the pros
shred down the slope. Criollo culture in Chincha
Accommodation for all price ranges is A bit further south along the main
available, but as the lagoon isn’t ideal for highway, Chincha has a unique heritage: The Amazon
swimming, consider splurging on a place it’s home to the descendants of black
with a pool – it gets fiendishly hot here slaves brought from Africa by the
during the day. Spanish.
For the best insight into their criollo
The Nazca Lines culture, visit during the Verano Negro
One of Peru’s most recognizable ancient festival in February or Fiesta de las
Adventure

landmarks, the mysterious, UNESCO Danzas Negras in November, when the

World Heritage Nazca lines comprise town erupts into a chaotic whirl of
300 geometric shapes carved into the dancing, music, and food showcasing the
desert by a long-vanished culture – and region’s Peruvian-Afro lineage.

24
 Contents
Overview
The Coast
THE
The Highlands
HIGHLANDS HH

The Amazon

F
or many travelers, the Peruvian highlands are
synonymous with Machu Picchu – but there’s
much more to discover, from the tallest
mountain range in the New World, to the deepest
Adventure

canyon on the planet, to remote Andean villages

steeped in tradition.

25
THE HIGHLANDS

48 Hours
in Cusco
Cusco is constantly bustling
with tourists prepping for or
returning from Machu Picchu,
yet the international influence
has integrated beautifully with

Contents
the local lifestyle.

With an abundance of excellent

restaurants, awe-inspiring churches,
and busy market places, there’s always

Overview
something to draw you back to Cusco –
or keep you extending your stay.
Fruit market, Cusco

The Boleto Turistico

A Boleto Turistico (tourist ticket) is Sacsayhuaman fortress. If you’re lucky,
required to see most of the important you’ll be in Cusco during one of the

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sights in Cusco and the Sacred Valley. city’s many festivals and see parades
You can buy the full ticket, which around the Plaza.
includes 14 sights and is valid for ten
days, for S/. 13 (US $40). Or you can San Blas
buy tickets for three different circuits Next, it’s a (steep) uphill walk to the

The Highlands
– Cusco museums, Cusco Inca sites, artisan neighborhood of San Blas for
or Sacred Valley sites – for S/. 70 (US a stroll through the shops. Check out
$21.60) each. These are valid for one the ornate altar in the Iglesia San Blas,
to two days only. Boletos can be then stop at the San Pedro Market, a
purchased at the entrance to most of bustling, open-air food market. Grab Where
the sights, or at the COSITUC office at empanadas or stop at Govinda’s food to stay The Amazon
Milhouse Hostel is
Avenida Del Sol 103 in central Cusco. stall for spectacular vegan treats.
a popular spot with
comfy beds, large
Plaza de Armas Koricancha and the Museum lockers, and free
Start off your tour at this vibrant of Pre-Columbian Art luggage storage
during your hike.
square in the heart of the city. At Head back down the hill to find the
Casa San Blas
its center is the statue of Inca ruler twelve-angled stone, which was part of
Adventure

Boutique is a
Pachacuti. Surrounding it you’ll find the wall of the ancient Hatunrumiyoc quaint offering in
restaurants, shops, and La Catedral, Palace and is a prime example of the a renovated 17th
century house with
a dramatic piece of architecture built Inca’s remarkably precise dry-stone
city-view balconies.
with stones taken from the nearby masonry.

26
THE HIGHLANDS

Contents
Overview
Cusco Plaza de Armas

Then, head off to the Inca Sun Then it’s time to party, and Cusco What
Temple, Koricancha, which was once is rife with options. Pepe Zeta is a no-
to Buy

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Nothing’s more
lined with sheets of gold. It was frills hangout serving liter beers and Peruvian than a
ransacked by the Spanish, who built Andean music, or try Mama Africa, the brightly colored
a colonial church atop the ruins – the pop-reggaeton club that’s the spot for bag, sweater, hat, or
table runner woven
contrast is striking. young travelers. For laid-back vibes, in a traditional
Fill your belly at Greens café, then hit Los Perros, a cafe that turns jazz

The Highlands
Andean pattern.
it’s over to the Museum of Pre- lounge at night. Look for textiles
made from alpaca
Columbian Art, a museum-lovers
wool (a relative of
favorite that stretches across two Sacred Valley day trip the llama) – it’s hypo-
floors of a Spanish-Colonial casona. The next morning, head out early allergenic, naturally
water-resistant, and
Next, stop in at the Centro de to see the Sacred Valley. Your
sustainable. “Baby”
Textiles Tradicionales. This nonprofit Boleto Turistico will get you into the alpaca comes from The Amazon
organization is preserving traditional Moray agricultural amphitheater the first shearing
weaving techniques and helping local and the Pisac and Ollantaytambo of the alpaca and is
particularly fine and
communities in the process. archaeological sites
soft. To see if your
Back in Cusco, grab a healthy bite textile is alpaca and
Dining and nightlife in Cusco at Organika. Then it’s off to the not acrylic, hold it
in the sunlight – if
For dinner, it’s Morena’s for incredible, ChocoMuseo for a chocolate-making
Adventure

it glints, it’s at least

well-priced Peruvian food, or try lesson, followed by a yoga class at partially acrylic. Also,
Papacho’s, the only gourmet burger Healing House to unwind before your if the price seems
joint in Cusco, by famed Peruvian chef trek to Machu Picchu or one of the too good to be true,
it probably is.
Gaston Acurio. other epic treks in the region.

27
THE HIGHLANDS

Day Trips
from Cusco
Looming fortresses, blinding
white salt mines, and plenty of
hiking trails make a day trip to
the Sacred Valley the perfect
introduction to all things Inca.

Contents
While Machu Picchu is the primary
reason for making a pilgrimage to
Cusco, it would be a mistake to skip
the Sacred Valley. Squashed between

Overview
the city and the citadel, it’s a region of
hilltop ruins and dramatic agricultural
Sacsayhuaman
terraces, where ancient customs are
still very much alive.
The elevation here is high, but then pass a clutch of archaeological sites,
so are the rewards; these day trips including the man-made caves of

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The
into the Sacred Valley will prepare you Q’enqo, the site of Inca ritual sacrifice,
elevation
physically and culturally for traveling before the formidable dry-stone walls
here is high,
onwards to Machu Picchu. of the great fortress Sacsayhuaman
but then
rise up before you.
so are the
Tambomachay and It’s said that Cusco, former capital of

The Highlands
rewards;
Sacsayhuaman the Inca empire, was originally built in
these day
Situated only 5mi (8km) away from the shape of a puma – the fortress is
trips into
Cusco, Tambomachay is an easy its head, and the terraced walls form
the Sacred
independent day trip and excellent the cat’s teeth.
Valley will
for acclimatizing. These ceremonial But the real gem of your adventure
prepare you
baths – most likely used by Inca is the Cusco Planetarium. Astronomy
physically The Amazon
nobility – sit at 12,467ft (3,800m) was essential to Incan life, and this
and
elevation, so boarding a cheap family-owned planetarium will teach
culturally
collectivo (shared minivan) destined for you all you need to know, complete
for traveling
Pisac from Calle Puputi, getting off at with stunning views of the stars.
onwards
Tambomachay, then hiking back down A gentle 20-minute hike then takes
to Machu
via Sacsayhuaman is far more pleasant you back down into Cusco.
Picchu.
Adventure

than walking both ways.

From the ruins, take the main road Market bartering in Pisac
and then the path bearing left. As it Rising out of the hillside above the
meanders down towards Cusco, you’ll village of Pisac, the Inca Písac citadel

28
THE HIGHLANDS

is relatively unvisited compared with

many other Sacred Valley treasures. The
It’s made up of agricultural terraces, an sweeping
Inca cemetery, and a temple complex, perspective
with vast, valley-length views to boot, of the gorge
but unless you’re superbly fit and from the top
acclimatized (it’s a gruelling 90-minute makes the
hike up), hire a taxi to the top and strategic

Contents
wander down through the ruins. placement of
Back in Pisac, savor the chaos this fortress
of its market, with Sundays hitting clear.
full throttle as the stalls burst with
alpaca sweaters, pyramids of colorful
powdered dyes, and elaborately

Overview
painted Andean pottery. Don’t forget
to barter, it’s all part of the fun.
Know your
camelids

Ellen Hall
Traditional weaving in the Sacred Valley.
The Moray Terraces and At some point in
Salinas de Maras the highlands, you’ll
likely run across
Ditch the expensive bus tours for the work, so make sure you buy salt from

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a llama (perhaps
Moray Terraces and Salinas de Maras the shop before taking the path on the with ears trimmed
and instead hop on a collectivo (this left of the pools down into the Sacred in bright tassels) or
time from Calle Pavitos for S/.10 or US Valley and a bus back to Cusco. a herd of alpaca.
But what’s the
$3) to be dropped off at the turning difference? Both
for Moray. Inca ruins in Ollantaytambo

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are South American
From here, a short taxi ride The small-yet-perfectly-formed town camelids, but llamas
are bigger and
brings you to the Inca’s agricultural of Ollantaytambo has more to offer
used primarily as
laboratory. Spiraling up the hillside, than just the train to Aguas Calientes. pack animals, while
these circular terraces differ 59˚F Give yourself a few hours here alpacas are raised
for their wool
(15˚C) in temperature between the and climb the stone steps up Temple
and their meat.
highest and the lowest, creating Hill, the ruins perched above the The other New The Amazon
unique microclimates that allowed village. The sweeping perspective of World camelids
the Incas to experiment with growing the gorge from the top makes the are the delicate
vicuña (which has
crops. strategic placement of this fortress
extremely fine
A 5.6mi (9km) hike back via the clear. wool used in very
village of Moray brings you to the On the road back to Cusco, hop on expensive textiles)
and the guanaco,
equally spectacular Salinas de Maras, any collectivo and get off at Cerveceria
Adventure

a smaller version
a shimmering landscape of salt pools del Valle, a nearby craft brewery, of the llama found
etched into the hillside. Local families whose six beers on tap and seasonal in the deserts of
have been extracting the white stuff menu of pub grub is an excellent southern Peru.
Both are wild.
here for millennia – it’s back-breaking reward for an afternoon’s hiking.

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THE HIGHLANDS

Making
the Most
of Machu
Picchu
The iconic “lost city” of Machu

Contents
Picchu is deservedly famous
– and insanely popular. Here’s
how to avoid the crowds and
experience it at its best.

Overview
This Wonder of the World is open daily
from 6am to 4pm, and even though
Machu Picchu at Sunrise
visitors are capped at 2,500, there are
always crowds. Except if you’re one of
the first to enter. Hiking to Machu Picchu
This isn’t an easy feat. First, you’ll This is without doubt a bucket-list

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The classic
need your ticket in hand, bought in experience. You’ll visit crystalline
Inca trail
advance online or as part of your glacial lakes and see the majestic
has a
trekking package – you can’t get them Andes mountains in all their splendor –
500-person-
at the entrance. Be aware that new it’s a very special journey, and all treks
per-day limit
rules have been put in place in an are worth it.

The Highlands
that books
attempt to minimize the impact of The classic Inca trail has a
out months
tourism on the site. Visitors are now 500-person-per-day limit (guided
in advance,
allowed entry in two half-day shifts, so tours only) that books out months in
but is the
be sure to purchase your ticket for the advance. However, it’s the only one
only one that
morning if you plan to go early. that ends at Inti Punku (Sun Gate), the
ends at Inti
Beginning in 2018, it may be historic entry point to Machu Picchu.
Punku (Sun The Amazon
mandatory to visit the ruins with a If you get up early enough on the last
Gate).
licensed guide. This can be arranged day of the hike, you can be at this gate
through a tour company or at the by sunrise.
entrance (though you might get a A cheaper alternative is the
higher-quality guide through the tour Salkantay trail. Its scenery is equally
company). spectacular, but there are no permit
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The gateway to Machu Picchu is limitations – experienced hikers can

the town of Aguas Calientes. You can even go without guides as long as
get here by trek or train – both are they’re prepped for the sub-zero
incredible. nights.

30
THE HIGHLANDS

Getting to Machu Picchu

by train
Other than hiking, the only other way
to get to Machu Picchu is by rail – there
are no roads to the ruins. Trains depart
from Poroy (about a 20-minute taxi ride
from Cusco) or Ollantaytambo in the
Sacred Valley.

Contents
The economically-priced Vistadome
and Expedition trains have panoramic
Train to Machu Picchu
windows and skylights to enjoy the
beautiful landscapes on your three-
hour journey, or take the Belmond handful of ruins on Huayna Picchu,
Hiram Bingham for a true luxury most notably the Temple of the Moon,
Less well-

Overview
experience. accessed by the Gran Caverna path.
known,
Going by train lets you avoid an Less well-known, but also a
but also a
overnight stay in Aguas Calientes, but worthwhile climb, is Machu Picchu
worthwhile
that’s not recommended if you want to Mountain, southwest of the Machu
climb, is
see Machu Picchu with no crowds. Picchu citadel across from Huayna
Machu
Picchu. It can be climbed in three to

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Picchu
Beating the crowds four hours.
Mountain,
So how to get in first? There’s a If you want to do one of these hikes,
southwest of
Belmond hotel just outside the ruin, make sure you’ve pre-purchased a
the Machu
and if you have the means to stay there ticket to Machu Picchu Mountain or
Picchu
you can guarantee first entry. If you Huayna Picchu as part of your entry

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citadel
don’t, don’t sweat it. Just be up at 4am ticket. There are limits to the number of
across from
so you’re first in line for the bus to the people who are allowed to do the treks
Huayna
site’s gates. For the mega-fit, consider each day.
Picchu.
an extended morning sprint up the You’ll need to start the treks early
steep hill to the entrance. There are in the day (before 8am or 11am for
always a few runners who beat even Huayna Picchu, depending on your The Amazon
the first bus up. ticket, and before 10am for Machu
Picchu Mountain). Both offer impressive
Hiking at the ruins: Huayna views of Machu Picchu and the valley,
Picchu vs. Machu Picchu but both are intense climbs. Which one
Mountain to choose is personal: Huayna Picchu is
There’s a good chance you’ve heard better known and thus more crowded,
Adventure

about Huayna Picchu (“young but it’s a "shorter" climb. Machu Picchu
mountain”), the famous, cone-shaped Mountain has better views (it’s higher
hill behind the ruins. It can be climbed up) and fewer crowds, but no ruins and
in two to three hours. There are a is a longer trek.

31
THE HIGHLANDS

Alternatives
to the Inca
Trail
With permits limited on Peru’s
iconic, well-trodden Inca Trail,
alternative routes to the

Contents
treasures of the Andes are ever
more appealing.

Peru’s iconic Inca Trail, a fairly taxing 26-

mi (42km) hike to the sacred Inca city of

Overview
Machu Picchu, has been an adventure
lover’s rite of passage since the site was
Hiking the Salkantay Trail
first discovered in 1911. As over a million
travelers descend each year and the
site nudges ever closer to inclusion on Machu Picchu at least three months in
UNESCO’s list of endangered Heritage advance.

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These
Sites, more sustainable tourist initiatives To avoid altitude sickness, plan to
equally
have taken hold. spend two or three days acclimatizing
scenic
These equally scenic Andean routes in Cusco before setting out. High
Andean
offer trails strewn with Inca ruins amidst elevations can also mean dramatic
routes offer
a diversity of ecosystems, unsullied by temperature spikes.

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trails strewn
the selfie stick-wielding crowds.
with Inca
Salkantay Trek to ruins amidst
Practical Tips for Hiking to Machu Picchu a flamboyant
Machu Picchu The five-day Salkantay Trail is the most
diversity of
Besides the alternative routes to Machu popular alternative to the classic Inca
ecosystems.
Picchu listed here, many operators will Trail. The trail starts at Mollepata, three The Amazon
customize their standard routes and hours from Cusco, and negotiates 45mi
offer treks that range from basic tents (72.5km) of soaring Andean peaks, cloud
to more “glamping” style options. forest, and lowland jungle.
Travelers who like peace of mind Widely considered to be a step
should book in advance, although you up from the Inca Trail in terms of
can often save significantly by booking physical challenge, hikers must tackle
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on the ground in Cusco. the windswept, frigid Salkantay Pass

In very high season (June to (14,760ft or 4,500m).
September), tours quickly sell out. You’ll The trade-off is huge: the chance
also need to purchase your permits for to hike in relative solitude past awe-

32
THE HIGHLANDS

the train to Aguas Calientes, the base

camp for Machu Picchu. Tours begin in
Much more
Cusco and drive to the starting point
strenuous
at Mollepata. Prices for the tour range
than the Inca
from S/. 3,073 or US $950 (six to ten
Trail, this
trekkers) to S/. 3,720 or US $1,150 (two
34mi (55km)
trekkers).
trail involves
ascending

Contents
Classic Choquequirao trail
seven steep
Nestled in cloud forest, some 61mi
Choquequirao summits and
(98km) west of Cusco, the magnificent
negotiating
Inca citadel of Choquequirao is often
rocky terrain
inspiring Salkantay Mountain and called the “other Machu Picchu.” With
at a dizzying
through valleys studded with ruins. The a maximum elevation of 10,000ft
15,800ft

Overview
tour costs around S/. 1,779 or US $550 (3,048m), this trek is not a high-altitude
(4,816m).
(based on nine trekkers). There’s also the head spinner compared to some others.
option of staying in high-end mountain But it does feature some brutal ascents,
lodges (from S/. 10,350 or US $3,200). rugged terrain, and a challenging hike
No permits or guides are required for deep into the Apurímac Canyon.
this trek, but you’ll still need to purchase Your payoff is gorgeous scenery and

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an entrance ticket to Machu Picchu newly discovered ruins – all without
(around S/. 226 or US $70). Independent the need for a guide and the crowds of
hikers can arrange tickets in advance Machu Picchu.
through the official Peruvian Ministry of Departing from Cachora (four hours
Culture website from Cusco), the four-day round trip

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with a guide costs around S./ 1,860 or
Ancascocha Trail US $575 per person (nine to twelve
to Machu Picchu trekkers) to S/. 4,237 or US $1,310 (two
Located within the Sacred Valley, this trekkers).
trek offers similar scenery to the Inca For an epic nine-day adventure, many
Trail, but with little tourist traffic and the tour operators offer a Choquequirao hike The Amazon
chance to explore recently excavated that links up with the Inca Trail (58mi or
ruins en route. 93km total). Beyond Choquequirao, the
Much more strenuous than the Inca trail traverses the remote Vilcabamba
Trail, this 34mi (55km) trail involves mountain range before reaching
ascending seven steep summits and Urubamba, where trekkers board the
negotiating rocky terrain at 15,800ft train to Aguas Calientes, the base camp
Adventure

(4,816m). Your reward: a secluded hike for Machu Picchu.

through the pristine Vilcabamba and Expect to pay from S/. 4,480 or US
Urubamba mountain ranges. $1,385 (nine trekkers) to S/. 7,957 or US
On the final day, trekkers board $2,640 (two trekkers).

33
THE HIGHLANDS

The
Cordilleras
Peru’s Cordilleras offer up
towering peaks, turquoise
lagoons, ancient temples,
and about a million other
adventures in between.

Contents
You could easily spend a month here
and not get bored, but with five to
ten days you can take on a trek, have a
great night out with a hodge-podge of

Overview
international travelers in Huaraz, and
visit most of the top sites.
Huaraz City

Huaraz
The nexus and plexus of the region, Right in town, head up on a quick
Huaraz is the staging ground for most 45-minute hike to Mirador de Reaqueña

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Huaraz is
of your adventures here. A dozen- to acclimatize yourself and savor the
at 10,141ft
plus outfitters will get you ready for views of the surrounding wilderness.
(3,091m), and
treks, mountain bike trips, climbing Huaraz is at 10,141ft (3,091m), and you’ll
you’ll want
adventures, and horseback riding. want to take your time for the first day
to take your
Many people choose to stay in or so.

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time for the
Huaraz and take day tours out to places The stalls at the Feria Artesanal
first day or
like Chavín de Huántar, the Lagunas (Artisans Market) are great for picking
so.
Llaganuco, the Laguna Parón, or the up souvenirs and thick wool sweaters
glacier at Nevado Pastorurí. for the cold nights. If you’re interested in
giving back, there are a number of local
non-profits that take on both short- and The Amazon
long-term volunteers.
Come night-time, a fun-loving crowd
of international travelers, locals, scruffy
mountaineers, and other interesting
characters come together in the raucous
beer halls that light up the Andean
Adventure

night.

Cordillera Blanca
Huarez
There are plenty of adventures to

34
THE HIGHLANDS

Huántar to explore the underground

passageways, ceremonial temples, and
Prepare for
onsite museum at this World Heritage
huge Andean
site that saw its rise between 1200 and
vistas,
500 BC. Most people come here on a
mountain-
day trip from Huaraz. You can stop along
top climbs,
the way in small Quechua-speaking
casual
villages, taking quick hikes out to lost
encounters

Contents
lagoons.
with
Trekking in the Cordillera Blanca Quechua-
Chiquián and the Cordillera speaking
Huayhuash locals, and
be had in the Cordillera Blanca, from It’s less famous than the Cordillera a peaceful
bagging a 19,685ft (6,000m) peak – no Blanca, but nevertheless, the virgin, escape under

Overview
small endeavor – to heading off the remote, and stunning Cordillera the big
beaten track to the less-visited lagoons Huayhuash offers a bunch of challenging Peruvian sky.
that mark this high Andean mountain high-altitude treks. If you have the time
range. – and the stamina – the spectacular,
The top trek for most is the three- or nine-day Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit
four-day Santa Cruz Trek. Outfitters in starts in Pocpa and ends in Llamac, and

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Huaraz can get you started, and you can includes visits to tiny Andean hamlets
do the trip with a guide or on your own. and turquoise lakes.
It’s fairly well traveled and signposted, Many people kick off the trip in the
so navigation is a breeze. Prepare for laid-back village of Chiquián. Expect to
huge Andean vistas, mountain-top pay about S/. 162 (US $50) per day for a

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climbs, casual encounters with Quechua- guide and S/. 65 (US $20) for a donkey –
speaking locals, and a peaceful escape believe us, it’s worth it to not have the
under the big Peruvian sky. extra weight on your back, especially
The Casa de Guías in Hauraz is a good on the ascents to mountain passes over
place to pick up a guide and hire pack 16,400ft (5,000m).
animals if you’re interested. Guided treks The Amazon
will cost S/. 486-972 (US $150-300). What’s a Cordillera?
A cordillera is a chain of mountains (the name means “little rope” in
Chavín de Huántar and the Spanish). The term is used mostly for ranges in the Americas, particularly
the Andes.
Callejón de Conchucos
Peru’s astounding Cordillera Blanca is the world’s second-highest
The Callejón de Conchucos, a glorious
mountain range after the Himalayas, and the highest tropical mountain
collection of valleys on the eastern
Adventure

range. It features more than 25 peaks over 19,685ft (6,000m), most

slopes of the Cordillera Blanca, is notably colossal Huascarán, Peru’s tallest peak at 22,205ft (6,768m).
another trekking, mountain biking, and Not to be outdone, the Cordillera Huayhash has its own claim to fame –
it’s home to Laguna Niñococha, the glacial lake that’s the source of the
exploring highlight. If you only have a
mighty Amazon River.
day, be sure to make it out to Chavín de

35
THE HIGHLANDS

The Central
Sierra
Under the monumental peaks
of the Andes, a traditional way
of living still predominates.

Contents
In Peru’s Central Sierra region, sites are
linked up by the Incan Andean Road
and divided by contrasts of vividness
and modesty, city bustle and mountain
serenity, rich vegetation and austere
plains.

Overview
Ayacucho
Ayacucho
This city is the best starting point for
exploring the Central Sierra. A wide
choice of bus companies operate district, where traditional retablos
between Lima and Ayacucho, so (devotional story boxes) are made. For

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For great
decide which comfort level suits you great views over the whole city, hike
views over
for an eight-hour journey, climbing up to Cerro Acuchimay or Cerro Picota.
the whole
from sea level to 8,860ft (2,700m), or
city, hike
you can pick one of four flights. Festivals in Ayacucho up to Cerro
Despite its gloomy name – it was Ayacuchan locals love to celebrate.

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Acuchimay
dubbed “corner of the dead” after a Many fiestas are held during the year,
or Cerro
bloody battle in 1825 – Ayachuco is a beginning with Carnaval Ayacuchano in
Picota.
very lively city with an engaging blend February/March, when the whole city
of indigenous and Catholic beliefs. dances and shows its ceremonial face.
It’s most famous for its 33 churches, But few Peruvian festivities can
starting with Catedral Basilica de Santa compare with Ayacuchan Semana Santa The Amazon
María at the Plaza de Armas. Be sure (Holy Week). Every visitor can take
to stop at this square on Sunday to try part in observing the creation of floral
the delicious local ice cream known as carpets, weeping over Christ's coffin,
muyuchi. finding cover during the bull chase, or
Also highly recommended is Museo celebrating the Easter Sunday vigil.
de la Memoria (S/. 2 or US $.60 for the
Adventure

guided tour), which vividly illustrates Quinua

the atrocity of the Shining Path To escape the bustle of the city, take
guerrillas. a colectivo (shared van or taxi) from
Don’t miss the Santa Ana artisan Óvalo de Magdalena and head to

36
THE HIGHLANDS

the Pampa de Quinua, where the know inaccessible places. However,

history of Peru was written. Above the the train operates only from May to A tip for
Quinua village rises a mighty obelisk October. adventurers
commemorating the victorious battle Huancayo itself is a very pleasing wanting an
of independence in 1824. The place town with an abundance of thematic authentic
itself offers stunning views and invites parks like Parque de los Sombreros, local
you to hike or ride horses (S/. 10-20 or where trees are replaced by hats, experience:
US $3-6) towards various waterfalls. or Cerrito de Libertad, with an take a

Contents
enchanting view of the city. colectivo
Wari ruins The quirky rock towers known as from
Halfway between Quinua and Torre Torre are only a few steps out of Huancavelica
Ayacucho lies this extensive pre-Incan town, and a trek to the Huaytapallana and give
cultural site, accompanied by a small glacier begins just 17mi (28 km) away. traditional
museum. Every year on the summer living a try

Overview
solstice, Familia Ancestral Kunturkanki Natural wonders in Chopca
holds the ceremony of Inti Raymi at this at Tarma village.
site. The scent of palo santo, the music, Nature enthusiasts shouldn’t miss the
and the ceremony itself make you feel surroundings of Tarma village (alias
truly connected to the earth. La Perla de los Andes), which hide
countless caves, the deepest being

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Huancavelica Gruta de Huagapo. To view a variety of
Even higher into the mountains wild orchids, take one of the tours to
you’ll find this picturesque colonial Valle de Chanchamayo.
town. With the rising elevation, The nearby Reserva Nacional de
temperatures can be chilly, so the local Junín, located within the vast Bombón

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thermal baths come in handy. plateau, features endless plains and
A tip for adventurers wanting Chinchaycocha, the largest lake within
an authentic local experience: take Peru and home to an abundance of
a colectivo from Huancavelica and birds.
give traditional living a try in Chopca
village. Visitors can pitch in with Mysterious Kotosh temple The Amazon
the potato harvests, help prepare Huánuco, the so-called gateway
traditional dishes, and take part in city to the Amazon, is inseparably
festivities. Basic but comfortable connected with the symbol of crossed
lodging is available at Tambo. Warm hands, which was discovered within
clothes recommended. the religious pre-Incan site Kotosh.
Although the original artifact was
Adventure

Huancayo and beyond moved to Lima, Templo de las Manos

Taking the local train Macho (S/. 13 or Cruzadas and the whole site is worth
US $4) is a unique way to travel from exploring before you leave the
Huancavelica to Huancayo and get to mountains and plunge into the jungle.

37
THE HIGHLANDS

Arequipa
and the
Canyons
The deepest canyons
in the world, Colca and
Cotahuasi lure extreme

Contents
sport enthusiasts and
trekkers, while Peru’s
magnificent second city,
Arequipa, provides the base
for exploration, along with

Overview
excellent food and a perfect
climate.
Cruz del Condor lookout

Arequipa
Founded in 1540, Arequipa’s historic Colca Canyon
center is a confection of gleaming The Cañón del Colca defies superlatives.

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When it
baroque buildings, justly anointed with Plunging to 11,150ft (3,399m) – that’s
comes to
UNESCO World Heritage status. twice as deep as the Grand Canyon –
gastronomic
The city’s undisputed cultural highlight, Colca Canyon forms part of a 62mi-long
flair,
the Monasterio/Convento de Santa (100km-long) volcanic mountain range
Arequipa
Catalina, was founded in 1579 as a holy dominated by awe-inspiring Mount

The Highlands
gives Lima
retreat for the daughters of gilded Coropuna. Adventure travelers test
a run for its
Spanish families. Its serene courtyards, their mettle with multi-day hiking trips
money.
gardens, and cloisters reveal how – and mountaineering expeditions that
despite their oath to poverty and chastity venture deep into the canyon.
– the nuns had a pretty good gig with There’s also excellent river rafting,
private kitchens, art collections, servants, mountain biking, and a zip line which The Amazon
and luxuriously appointed “cells.” plummets 1,640ft (500m) between the
When it comes to gastronomic canyon walls in a simulation of the flight
flair, Arequipa gives Lima a run for its of an Andean Condor.
money. Calles de Santa Catalina and The actual flight of these impressively
San Francisco are a fine place to get large birds can be viewed at the Cruz
acquainted with Arequipeño culinary del Cóndor lookout – most tour group
Adventure

traditions. Perennial favorites are Zig itineraries include a stop.

Zag, with a staircase built by Gustave
Eiffel, and Salamento, famed for its Cahatuasi Canyon
fresh takes on classic Peruvian dishes. The crown for “deepest canyon in

38
THE HIGHLANDS

the world” goes to Cahatuasi. It’s the

preserve of experienced hikers, climbers,
and river rafters due to its inaccessibility
and intense Class V rapids.
If you’re planning to hit Cahatuasi,
it’s worth a short detour to the town of
Corire and the Toro Myerto petroglyphs,
a series of ancient cave paintings.

Contents
Most travelers to Cahatuasi sign up for
organized excursions from Arequipa to
Plaza de Armas, Chivay
Chivay, the canyon’s main village. There’s
no need to plan ahead – Arequipa’s
bevy of outfitters offer daily departures worth shelling out for a room at the
ranging from day trips to multi-day treks. rustic-chic lodges located between
Colectivos

Overview
Colectivos (mini vans) shuttle Chivay and Cabanaconde.
(mini vans)
independent travelers from Arequipa to
shuttle
the canyon’s villages, where experienced Paucarpata and Sabandia
independent
hikers can go it alone without a guide. 4mi (6.4km) southeast of Arequipa, the
travelers
Note that to enter the canyon all visitors town of Paucarpata is a worthwhile
from
must purchase a Boleto Turistico, or foray into the countryside. Founded by

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Arequipa to
Tourist Ticket, for S/. 91 (US $28). the Spanish in the late 16th century,
the canyon’s
its rich cultural traditions and pre-
villages,
Chivay and canyon villages Inca terraces can be explored on a
where
The Colca Valley’s villages unfurl along combined day trip with Sabandia
experienced
the south and north banks of the (another mile down the road).

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hikers can
canyon. Most tourist traffic is centered In Sabandia, renowned architect
go it alone
on the dusty town of Chivay, which Luis Felipe Calle breathed new life into
without a
clings to its Quechua traditions while the region’s first stone mill, or molina,
guide.
thoroughly embracing its status as the built in the early 17th century. When
canyon’s main hub. the restoration project wrapped up in
With electricity still a recent 1973, the architect was so taken with The Amazon
addition, Chivay has a low-key vibe his accomplishment that he bought
with a growing kernel of locally run the mill and turned it into a tourist
hotels, inns, and restaurants. Town attraction complete with informative
life orbits around the market and tours (S/. 9.70 or US $3), a swimming
main square, where colorfully attired pool, and horseback rides.
Colca women ply their wares against You can take a taxi (S./ 32 or around
Adventure

a backdrop of snowcapped peaks and US $10 return trip) or colectivo (S/. 1.6
terraced hillsides. or US $0.50 each way) to Paucarpata
If you’re looking for more and then Sabandia from Arequipa, or
comfortable accommodation, it’s just walk (around two hours).

39
 THE HIGHLANDS

Lake Titicaca
Spanning the borders of Peru
and Bolivia, Lake Titicaca is the
world’s highest navigable lake
at 12,507ft (3,812m). The region
is famous for its islands and
crystal-clear waters as well as its

Contents
festivals and archaeological sites.

Uros
The floating Uros islands are one of
the main reasons tourists flock to
Lake Titicaca. These islands are made

Overview
from totora (a type of reed) and are
about an hour’s boat ride from Puno.
Lake Titicaca from Taquile Island
They were originally built by the
Uros people, although most of the
remaining members left in the 1950s. almost extinct society in an amazingly
Nowadays locals of Aymara origin picturesque landscape. The trip is

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These
run the islands and maintain the old three hours long (one hour on-site)
islands are
traditions, making their boats and and costs S/. 40-50 (US $12-15.50).
made from
even their homes from the reeds and
totora (a
creating brightly colored handicrafts. Amantaní type of
Despite an obvious lack of Three hours by boat from Uros on the

The Highlands
reed) and
authenticity, the Uros islands are a other side of the Capachica peninsula
are about an
completely unique spot in the world, is Amantaní island, where visitors can
hour’s boat
where you can immerse yourself in get a breathtaking view of the snowy
ride from
the daily lives of an incredible and Bolivian mountain peaks.
Puno.
With the vivid blue of the lake,
the island’s stony ground, and the The Amazon
rural look of some of the houses, the
town has the feeling of a small village
along the Mediterranean coast. It’s
a completely timeless, stress-free
place where there’s not much to do
but contemplate the landscape and
Adventure

countless quinoa fields – and a few

solar panels!
To get here, it’s advisable to book
Ellen Hall

Handicrafts on the Uros islands

a two-day, one-night trip with an

40
THE HIGHLANDS

overnight homestay on Amantaní. This

tour includes Uros and Taquile. Prices
from S/. 120 (US $37).

Taquile
Three hours from Puno and one hour
away from Amantaní, the island of
Taquile is equally impressive. The

Contents
road from the port to the center of
the village takes your breath away (in
Houses on Taquile Island
every sense of the word, for people
who are not used to physical effort at
altitude). $12-18.50), but there’s also the option
Avoiding
Sunburn
Known for its artisanal cloth – of boarding a colectivo going from and Heat

Overview
the women do the weaving, the Puno to Jaliaca (S/. 3 or US $1) and Exhaustion
men do the knitting – Taquile is asking to be let off at the crossroads Peru is situated
generally a bit livelier than the other for Sillustani. From here, you must near the equator,
which means the
islands. Taquileans are also famous take a second colectivo (S/. 3) then pay
effect of the sun
for distinguishing their relationship the S/. 10 (US $3) entrance fee for the is much stronger
status through their dress (the color Sillustani site. than you would

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experience in
and placement of hats, skirts, and
latitudes further
tassels all have their meaning) and Festivals in Puno south or north.
for promoting living together before Exploring Lake Titicaca isn’t just about Wherever you go
marriage. You can visit Taquile in one touring the islands – Puno is known for in Peru, be sure to
protect yourself
day, with a stop halfway in Uros, for S/. being one of the most vibrant towns

The Highlands
from sunburn,
80 (US $24.75). of Peru. Almost every month, a festival or worse, heat
or other celebration takes over the exhaustion or
Sillustani streets. heat stroke. This
is particularly
This enigmatic pre-Inca archaeological Puno Week in early November
important at high
site is on the shores of striking Umayo recreates the city’s mythical creation, elevations, because
Lagoon, only 45 minutes from Puno. when Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo, there’s less of the The Amazon
earth’s atmosphere
It’s known for its cylindrical funerary son and daughter of the Sun God,
to block the
towers called chullpas, built by the rose from the lake to found the Inca sunlight.
ancient Colla people as burying places Empire. But the biggest of them all is Always wear a hat
for their nobility. The finest of the the Virgen de la Candelaria, a Catholic and sunglasses,
apply broad
chullpas were constructed without festival which has been given Intangible
spectrum
mortar and taper outwards from Cultural Heritage status by UNESCO.
Adventure

sunscreen (SPF 30+

the base, like a funnel – an unusual Held in early February, this event or higher), and wear
building style. includes the energetic diablada puneña, light, long-sleeved
clothing – even on
The simplest way of getting here is with dancers extravagantly costumed
overcast days.
with a tour operator (S/. 40-60 or US as angels, demons, and a sacred condor.

41
 Contents
Overview
The Coast
THE
The Highlands
AMAZON HH

The Amazon

T
he Amazon rainforest acts as the lungs of the planet,
soaking up carbon dioxide and pumping out sweet
oxygen. The Peruvian Amazon is astonishing in its
biodiversity – it’s home to over 14,500 species of animals,
Adventure

making it a must-visit for lovers of wildlife.

42
 THE AMAZON

Exploring
the Selva
Covering more than half of
Peru, the Peruvian Amazon can
be roughly divided into three
different areas; the southern,
central, and northern selva

Contents
(jungle).

Madre de Dios and the

southern selva
Puerto Maldonado, the capital of

Overview
the Madre de Dios region, can be
accessed by air and road from Cusco.
Macaws at clay lick, Madre de Dios
Most visitors come to this remote but
bustling frontier town just to enter the
jungle. tribes living in relative isolation. Some
Responsible
In the Reserva Nacional Tambopata, jungle tours will include a brief visit to

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tourism
you can visit incredibly biodiverse one of their villages. Tourist initiatives
rainforest, easily reachable from are one of the best
ways of protecting
many of the lodges around Puerto Manu National Park the rainforest
Maldonado. Don’t miss the macaw This UNESCO-certified park in the and creating jobs
clay licks, which attract huge numbers Madre de Dios region is one of South for local people.

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Provided you
of these colorful parrots and other America’s best locations to observe
choose a reputable
animals, and the hike to Sandoval Lake. tropical wildlife. operator, you are
Also within easy reach of Puerto The park covers an area of almost helping to protect
Maldonado are several indigenous 7,722 mi2 (20,000 km2), and has some the Amazon by
visiting on a wildlife-
of the greatest biodiversity on the watching tour.
planet, with a dizzying array of bird Please show respect The Amazon
and animal life. Trips to the reserved to indigenous
zone are more expensive, but offer a people and their
way of life, ask
much better chance of seeing wildlife.
before taking
Cheaper tours are available in the photos, do not hand
“cultural zone,” which still have good out sweets (as there
is no dental care
wildlife watching and are ideal for
Adventure

here) and be kind

budget travelers. Costs vary, but range at all times – a smile
from S/. 320-965 (US $100-300) per goes a long way
day, for itineraries from four to nine towards defusing
Ellen Hall

Cruising an oxbow lake in Manu National Park most situations.

days.

43
THE AMAZON

speakers, and even lederhosen (on special

occasions) are not what you might expect
in the Amazon!

The northern selva

This is the only area in Peru where it’s
possible to visit the actual Amazon river
and not a tributary, meaning there’s

Contents
wildlife here which isn’t found elsewhere,
like the rare pink river dolphin.
In the region you can also visit
indigenous villages such as the Yagua
tribe or take a trip to the renowned
Tapiche reserve, around ten hours from

Overview
Iquitos.

Floating village of Belen

Iquitos
The main access point to the northern
The Chanchamayo Valley selva, Iquitos is the largest city in the
This the closest jungle area to Lima, world that cannot be reached by road –

The Coast
and marks the beginning of the Central it’s accessible only by air or slow boat.
Selva. The region has good road links, The boat journey from Pucallpa takes
and plenty of protected areas for three to five days. Bring a camping
birdwatching. hammock with a mosquito net or
The town of La Merced has a thriving consider a cabin if you’re traveling alone

The Highlands
Saturday market – buying the colorful to keep your belongings safe. Just be
Safety tips
handicrafts here is a great way to support sure to bring a lock.
To enjoy the
the locals. Amazon in comfort, Iquitos is worth spending a couple of
The nearby town of Satipo has a we strongly days in before you head on a jungle tour.
daily market, although it’s better on the recommend Check out the fascinating market in the
that you pack a
weekends. Most backpackers start their floating shanty town of Belen. The Amazon
mosquito net, bug
jungle expeditions from either La Merced spray, and patience
or Satipo. – getting around Reserva Nacional
takes time. It’s also
Pacaya-Samiria
crucial to bring a
Pozuzo decent head lamp. This is Peru’s largest reserve. Most people
Further north, Pozuzo is a bizarre mix of In the darkness of visit here on a tour from Iquitos, but you
Austrian, German, and Peruvian culture, the Amazon, this can travel to Lagunas independently and
Adventure

can at most save

following an agreement between your life and, at the
arrange a guide there for a more DIY
Germany and Peru to establish German least, help you find adventure, although costs are still high –
settlements in the rainforest in the mid- your way to the at least S/. 240 (US $75) per day excluding
toilet!
19th century. Wooden chalets, German accommodation.

44
 Contents
Overview
The Coast
The Highlands
ADVENTURE HH

The Amazon

W
ith sky-high mountain trails to conquer,
thundering rivers to navigate, and some of the
world’s best surfing, Peru has everything to
satisfy the thrill-seeker in you.
Adventure

45
ADVENTURE

Hiking and
Trekking
In the mood for a day hike
through misty cloud forest
to a towering waterfall? Or
maybe you’re keen for a multi-
day expedition in the sacred

Contents
Andes? Whatever you’re up
for, Peru has you covered.

Gocta Falls
Flights from Lima to Jaen City get you

Overview
into the land of the cloud forests, and
then a three-hour drive to Cocachimba
Gocta Falls
will see you at the base of your trek.
Here you can hire a guide and horses
to make your way down to the floor might make the trek a little tougher to
of this impressive two-tiered waterfall navigate.

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Adventurous
(2,531ft or 771m high). There’s an
travelers
alternate route from the village of San Yumbilla Falls can try
Pablo to the upper section of the fall. There’s an even taller waterfall to check
canyoning
The hike takes just over two hours out in the area, located in the village of
here,
each way through lush, old-growth Cuispes, 15 minutes outside of Pedro

The Highlands
rappelling
forest filled with colorful birds, Ruiz. The falls are 2,936ft (895m) high,
down the
butterflies, and hidden orchids – the with spectacular views on the hike
side of
falls provide a stunning backdrop for there. In this primary forest, you’ll also
one of the
enjoying a packed lunch. There are pass the waterfalls of Medio Cerro
smaller
some steep sections, and switchbacks and Cristal before reaching the mighty
waterfalls.
and mud can make parts of the trails Yumbilla. The Amazon
slippery. But this is an enjoyable hike for Adventurous travelers can try
people of most fitness levels, and with canyoning here, rappelling down the
horses to handle the toughest parts it’s side of one of the smaller waterfalls.
accessible to a range of walkers. Keep This is an exhilarating activity, but be
your eyes peeled for the bright-red sure to hire an experienced guide with
cock-of-the-rock, the national bird of quality equipment and safety protocols.
Adventure

Peru. When to go: Again, the rainy season

Best time to go: During the rainy means more dramatic waterfalls, but
season November to April, the falls will it can make more adventurous hikes
be at their most impressive, but this unwise.

46
ADVENTURE

Packing for
your hike

Contents
Day hikes
Be sure to pack:
good walking
shoes, a rain
Fox Glacier
poncho, layered
clothing for
changing weather

Overview
conditions,
Ausangate sunglasses, hat and
sunscreen, water
bottle, snacks
Ausangate one of the few trails that allow horses. or lunch, insect
repellent, and a
Also known as the “colorful mountain”, Most tours start in Cusco and drive
camera.
this stunning range can appear southeast to Tinki. Prices range from

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Multi-day treks
striped with reds, yellows, and even S/. 1,682 or US $520 (nine trekkers For longer hikes,
turquoise. The trek here is one of the minimum) to S/. 3,882 or US $1200 be sure to pack:
A quality daypack
most scenic, challenging, and highest- (two trekkers).
with extra
altitude hikes in Peru. clothes, sunglass
Tour companies offer treks ranging Vinicunca (Rainbow) and sunscreen,

The Highlands
from three to seven days, but the most Mountain compass, water
bottle or bladder,
spectacular involve, at minimum, a The much-photographed Vinicunca knife, first-aid kit,
five-day circuit from a starting altitude (aka “Rainbow”) mountain, with its and good hiking
of 12,464ft (3,800m). From there, the naturally striated, multi-colored hues, boots. Hiking sticks
are invaluable for
trail ascends to over 17,060ft (5,200m) has been surging in popularity due
steep climbs and
and negotiates three hair-raisingly high to its Instagram-worthy scenery and descents. If you’re The Amazon
passes. proximity to Cusco. camping, you may
also need a sleeping
Unlike the Inca Trail, no permits or It can be reached by a combined
bag (choose one
guides are needed, and you’ll likely Vinicunca-Ausangate trek or on a long that’s lightweight
meet only a smattering of other hikers day trip from Cusco. but warm enough
as you traverse glacier-capped peaks, If you opt to do the standalone for nights at high
elevation), and an
high alpine lakes, and valleys full of trek to Vinicunca, be aware that it’s
Adventure

inflatable mattress
alpacas and llamas. a strenuous hike with a maximum or sleeping mat.
As well as basic campsites, trekkers elevation of 16,470ft (5,020m). Don’t A flashlight or
headlamp is also a
can sleep at one of four upscale lodges attempt it unless you’ve properly
must-have.
(tambos) or in basic huts. This is also acclimated beforehand.

47
ADVENTURE

Surfing
Peru may well be the birthplace
of surf – ancient artifacts show
indigenous Peruvians riding
waves in Huanchaco before the
Polynesians were surfing alaias
in Hawaii.

Contents
Peru draws wave worshippers from
Surfing off the coast of Lima
around the world to its 1,500mi
(2,414km) coastline, and there are waves
for all levels along its shores. The best Beach surf school are a must.
swells hit October to March, and except South of Mancora are the real waves.
The region’s

Overview
for up north, it’s wetsuit water. Here Los Organos hosts endless lefts; El Ñuro
resident
are some of the country’s top surfing too. Cabo Blanco is home to the Peruvian
surf and
destinations. Pipeline – a powerful left-hand reef break
party town,
whose barrels are likened to Hawaii’s
Mancora,
The Central North famous wave. Then comes Lobitos,
is often
Chicama, also known as Puerto possibly the best surf spot in Peru. Its

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likened to
Malabrigo, is home to the world’s longest combination of offshore winds, few
Tamarindo in
rideable left-hander. If it’s connecting, crowds, and multiple peaks means there
Costa Rica.
you can literally surf this cold-water are almost always waves to be had, from
break for more than a mile (1.6km). Just heavy barrels at el Hueco and the Point
north is Huanchaco, Peru’s birthplace to perfect lefts at Mueller, Piscinas, and

The Highlands
of surfing. 2,000-year-old clay pottery Baterias.
depicts Peruvian fishermen riding their
reed boats on Huanchaco’s waves – you Lima and surrounds
can still see some in action in the water. Not to be left out is Peru’s lovable capital
city. Beginners can rent boards at Playa
The North Coast Waikiki and paddle out at Punta Roquitas The Amazon
The region’s resident surf and party by the Miraflores Boardwalk or head to
town, Mancora, is often likened to La Herradura in Chorillos, a pumping left-
Tamarindo in Costa Rica. With easy hander that’s the pride of city dwellers.
waves, warm water, and an endless Just south of Lima is Playa Hermosa,
nightlife, it’s easy to see why many home to quality rights at Punta Rocas
travelers get stuck here. 45 minutes and the famed Pico Alto, an experts-only
Adventure

north is laid-back Zorritos, a surf-lover’s wave that’s one of the biggest in South
paradise with natural hot springs and America. When the swell is right, you can
medicinal mud baths to boot. If you’re watch big-wave riders get towed out to
new to the waves, lessons with Coco 20ft (6m) monsters.

48
ADVENTURE

Rafting and
Kayaking
Peru offers a multitude of
spectacular rafting and kayaking
opportunities, whether you’re
new to white-water sports or
are a die-hard fanatic.

Contents
The most important thing to do before
you hit the water is find a reputable,
experienced rafting company and
guide. Check online reviews and

Overview
ensure that the equipment is in good
condition before you book – don’t head
Kayaking, Lake Titicaca
out with someone who approached
you from the shadows!
impressive Cotahuasi Canyon, the
Rafting near Arequipa world’s deepest canyon and a marvelous

The Coast
An
The Río Chili is the most popular place of twisting rock formations and
adventure
local river for backpackers. A half-day challenging Class IV and V rapids.
here is for
beginner’s trip leaves daily from March An adventure here is for experienced
experienced
to November, costing around S/. 81 (US rafters only, as you’ll spend ten days on
rafters only,
$25) per person. the water. You can organize this from

The Highlands
as you’ll
From Arequipa, tours also head to Arequipa but be warned, it will set you
spend ten
the Río Majes, famed for its gentle back around S/. 9,700 (US $3,000). You
days on the
Class II and III rapids. You’ll get a can get this price down if you bring your
water.
chance to visit the petroglyphs of Toro haggling A-game.
Muerto on the way.
You can also have a homestay Rafting near Cusco The Amazon
experience in the nearby village of The Río Urubamba is very popular for
Aplao and arrange white-water tours rafting. Day trips run every day starting
from there. It’s a tad cheaper – an from around S/. 160 (US $50) per
afternoon on the water will cost person. The river is relatively tame and
around S/. 65 (US $20) a person. is a good bet for beginners. Tours run all
year round.
Adventure

Rafting the Cotahuasi Canyon If you choose to do the Inca Jungle

If you’re looking for extreme Trek to Machu Picchu, one day will
adventure, a few companies offer feature white-water rafting on the
multi-day rafting adventures on Urubamba.

49
ADVENTURE

with prices starting from around S/.

9,700 (US $3,000) per person. If you’re
While this trip is expensive, it’s well traveling in
worth it for the once-in-a-lifetime Peru, you’ll
experience of drifting through the almost
Amazon and camping out amid the certainly
sounds of the forest. visit the
legendary

Contents
Kayaking Lake Titicaca Lake
If you’re traveling in Peru, you’ll almost Titicaca.
certainly visit the legendary Lake
Titicaca. It’s possible to explore this
White-water kayaking
incredible place by kayak, departing
from Puno or Chucuito. Kayaking on

Overview
You could also visit the Río the world’s highest navigable lake is a
Apurímac, famed for its challenging special experience, but remember that
rapids scaling from Class III all the the elevation will make any physical
way up to Class V in places. The river activity much harder than usual, so
runs through stunning scenery – deep take it easy and do not do it hungover!
gorges, tropical rainforest, and vibrant Rentals start from S/. 39 (US $12)

The Coast
valleys – and you should have a good per hour. Tours including a visit to the
opportunity to spot some wildlife floating reed islands vary from S/. 160-
drinking from the river banks. 390 (US $50-120).
Tours are usually three or four days
and generally only run from May to Kayaking and rafting

The Highlands
November. near Lima
Sea kayak tours are available from Lima
Rafting in the Amazon for S/. 226 (US $70) per person.
For a wilder trip, head to the Class IV Lunahuaná is off the usual gringo
rapids of Río Tambopata. trail, despite its location just three
You need to plan this in advance hours’ drive from Lima, and is great The Amazon
as tours leave on a few set dates in for kayaking (Class I or II) and rafting
July and August, or on request from (Class II to +IV). Different stretches of
March to November. The route starts the Río Cañete are used depending
in Juliaca, close to Lake Titicaca, on the season, so rafting is usually
and passes through the Tambopata available all year, although peak season
Reserve in the vibrant Amazon, ending is from December to April. Rafting
Adventure

in Puerto Maldonado. companies in town offer various tours

On this ten-day tour, you can see for beginners and more experienced
some incredible wildlife in the reserve rafters, with prices ranging from S/. 49-
and camp on the banks of the river, 97 (US $15-30).

50
Essential an insurance policy that covers it is a
You aren’t
Insurance Tips
good idea.
able to
Canyoning upgrade your
If you’re heading to Peru,
Unfortunately, there’s no cover for policy after
chances are that you’ll either
Australians or Kiwis. However, residents it’s been
end up hiking, surfing, or from all other countries can be covered bought, so
canyoning. We’ve created this for canyoning. This means your medical make sure
short guide to let you know

Contents
expenses, medical evacuation, and you’ve got
how to get cover, where cover transport expenses home can be it right from
applies, and where it doesn’t. covered up to the limits in your policy. the start.
If you’re banged up and transported
Surfing home, you’ll need to have access
If you’re intending to go surfing on to government healthcare, private

Overview
your trip to Peru, all World Nomads’ healthcare, or a way of funding ongoing
travel insurance policies (Standard or on treatment, as cover stops as soon
Explorer) cover surfing. This means as you’re home. World Nomads policies
you don’t have to pay an additional are travel insurance policies, not health
premium to cover it when you’re buying insurance.
a policy. However, this doesn’t mean If you read through our helpdesk,

The Coast
that you can throw all caution to the you’ll be able to find out which policy
wind. For starters, you shouldn’t be you need to select and what the
exposing yourself to needless risk – for conditions are before you buy the
example, attempting monster waves policy. Of course, the policy wording
when you’ve only just started learning, will guide you on what’s covered and

The Highlands
offshore surfing when you can barely what’s not, so it’s essential you read
swim, or riding in the 50-Year Storm that as well before you buy a policy.
at Bells Beach. If you do, there are You aren’t able to upgrade your policy
exclusions in the policy, and chances after it’s been bought, so make sure
are any claim that arises from those you’ve got it right from the start.
activities will be declined. Weather The Amazon
It’s a good idea to look at the limits Hiking and Trekking safety
Weather conditions
in each policy so you know how you’re Apart from planning for the weather
in Peru can change
covered, not only for medical costs (and packing correctly), you’ll need to quickly, so it’s
and evacuation (in case you get so know the altitude that you’ll be hiking/ best that you’re
prepared. Search
badly banged up we need to bring trekking to in Peru, so that you can
and rescue isn’t
you home), but also for cancellation buy the correct level of coverage at
Adventure

covered in any of
expenses, baggage, and all of the the time of purchase. Many parts of our policies, so
other applicable benefits. Medical Peru are thinly populated and remote, make sure you
know where you
evacuation is expensive no matter which can make it difficult to get help
are at all times.
where you are in the world, so having if you don’t have insurance. If you get

51
altitude sickness or you’re injured
on the mountain and don’t have the
right insurance (or any insurance, for
that matter), a heli-evac to get you to
medical care can be very expensive.
World Nomads travel insurance
policies are designed so that you
can choose the right policy for the

Contents
activities you’re doing, giving you
access to the help you need when you
need it. If you do get injured in the
mountains, it’s essential that you get in
touch with our emergency assistance
teams straight away, so that they can

Overview
support you from the time you fall
sick or get injured until the time you
recover.
They’ll be able to help you get to
the nearest hospital, and if you’re
banged up badly enough, take

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you home so that you can get the
ongoing medical care that you need.
However, once you’re home, cover
stops, so you’ll need to have access to
government health care or your own the level of cover that you’ll need. All

The Highlands
private medical insurance for those plans are different and may require
costs. an upgrade for certain activities. Read
If you visit our helpdesk, or read the policy wording carefully to choose
through the activities section of the the right plan and/or adventure sport
purchase path, you’ll be able to see option for your trip.
The Amazon

All of the information we provide about travel insurance is a brief summary only. It does not include all terms, conditions, limitations, exclusions and termination
provisions of the travel insurance plans described. Coverage may not be available for residents of all countries, states or provinces. Please carefully read your policy
wording for a full description of coverage.
WorldNomads.com Pty Limited (ABN 62 127 485 198 AR 343027) at Governor Macquarie Tower, Level 18, 1 Farrer Place, Sydney, NSW, 2000, Australia is an Authorised
Representative of Cerberus Special Risks Pty Limited (ABN 81 115 932 173 AFSL 308461) and is underwritten by certain underwriters at Lloyd's. World Nomads Travel Lifestyle
(Europe) Limited (CN 601852) markets and promotes travel insurance products of Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited (CN 601851), First Floor, City Quarter, Lapps Quay, Cork,
Ireland. Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. WorldNomads.com Pty Limited markets and promotes travel insurance products of
Nomadic Insurance Limited (License No.1446874), at PO Box 1051, Grand Cayman KY1-1102, Cayman Islands. World Nomads Limited (05443592) is an Appointed Representative
Adventure

of Millstream Underwriting Limited (FCA Firm ref: 308584) at 52-56 Leadenhall Street, London, EC3A 2DX, United Kingdom. World Nomads Inc. (1585422), at 520 3rd Street,
Suite 201, Oakland, CA 94607, plans are administered by Trip Mate Inc. (in CA & UT, dba, Trip Mate Insurance Agency) at 9225 Ward Parkway, Suite 200, Kansas City, MO, 64114,
USA, with 24-hour and Assistance Services provided by One Call Worldwide Travel Services Network, Inc. and plans underwritten by Nationwide Mutual Insurance Company and
affiliated companies, Columbus, OH. World Nomads (Canada) Ltd (BC: 0700178; Business No: 001 85379 7942 RC0001) is a licensed agent sponsored by AIG Insurance Company
of Canada at 120 Bremner Boulevard, Suite 2200, Toronto, Ontario, M5J 0A8, Canada. World Experiences Seguros De Viagem Brasil Ltda (CNPJ: 21.346.969/0001-99) at Rua
Padre João Manuel, 755, 16º andar, São Paulo – SP, Brazil is an Authorized Partner (Representante) of Zurich Minas Brasil Seguros S.A. (CNPJ: 17.197.385/0001-21) at Av. Getúlio
Vargas, 1420, 5th floor, Funcionários, Belo Horizonte, State of Minas Gerais through the SUSEP Process 15414.901107/2015-77. All World Nomads entities listed above, including
Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited and Nomadic Insurance Limited, are subsidiaries of nib holdings limited (ABN 51 125 633 856).

52
 Contents
Overview
Thanks to our
contributors:
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Ed Salvato Gullfoss to discover out-of-the-way
hot pools and cascades.
Amy Schwartz
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Charlotte West New Zealand Insider's Guide
From Cape Reinga in the north to
Fjordland in the south, our insiders
show you the best of both islands.
Adventure

Canada Insider's Guide

Culture in Haida Gwaii, northern lights
in Yellowknife, or camping in the
All images from stock libraries
unless otherwise credited Canadian Rockies... where to start?

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