Preparatory Process of Woven Fabric Manufacturing Chapter 1
Preparatory Process of Woven Fabric Manufacturing Chapter 1
Preparatory Process of Woven Fabric Manufacturing Chapter 1
1. To transfer yarn from small packages like spinning cops, Doubler cops, hanks to large packages like For knitting machines, initially the angle of cone is 915’ and the final angle is 14. As the
cones or cheeses or spools. diameter of package increases, the taper also gradually increases up to the full size. These
2. To remove objectionable yarn faults like slubs, neps, thick & thin places, etc., present in the yarn. packages are called as ‘Foster cones’ or Accelerated Cones’. These cones facilitate easy
withdrawal of yarn in knitting machine and so yarn breakages are reduced in knitting machines.
2. Double traverse: The ratio between the linear traverse speed of yarn and the speed of yarn due to package rotation.
Laying of yarn from LHS to RHS and then from The wind ratio W is given by, Tan α = T / π D W, where
It is the angle between the side and axis of the cone. According to the method of package drive, basically there are two principles involved in winding
Angel of wind is decreasing with the Angel of wind is constant from empty
10 increasing in diameter of the package to full package
In this type, package is driven by surface contact with a drum. The package is mounted on a holder which
package
is made to rest on the drum surface. When drum rotates, the package is also rotated due to the surface
contact and the yarn is wound. The grooved drums are used for both winding and traversing the yarn. Package stability and density is less
11 Package stability and density is more
Hence the drums are called “rotary traverse drums”.
is reduced as the diameter of the package is increased. These are faults occurring in the range of 10 to 5000 times per 1000 m of yarn. Yarns spun from staple
fibers contain imperfections, which can be subdivided into three groups:
A yarn which is not uniform is said to be irregular or to contain yarn defects or faults. These faults vary in 2. Thin Places
their cross-sectional size and length. Yarn quality is influenced by various types of yarn faults which also 3. Neps
affects the quality of fabric produced. During the yarn manufacturing process various types of
Thick places: Cross-sectional size +30% to +100% of normal yarn with fault length ranging from 4 to 25
irregularities are generated in the yarn diameter regularly or at intervals which are known as yarn faults.
mm.
Yarn faults are represented based on their size, length and their frequency of occurrence.
Unevenness or irregularity
Imperfections
Objectionable yarn faults
“Unevenness” or “irregularity”
In all staple spun material (yarn, rovings and slivers), the fiber distribution along the material varies. The
mass per unit length variation due to variation in fiber assembly is generally known as “Irregularity” or
“Unevenness” (in practice the Um% or CVm% value). It is the skill of the spinner to arrange all machine
settings in such a way that all fibers are spread as even as possible over the length of the material.
Imperfections
The extremes of variations, i.e., the thin places, thick places and neps, are usually referred to as
Fig: Thick and thin places in yarn
“Imperfections”. These “imperfections” are determined according to a frequency figure or number per
1000 m or yards. Thin places: Cross-sectional size -30% to -60% of normal yarn with fault length ranging from 4 to 25
mm.
Objectionable yarn faults
If one now considers faults larger than +100% based on the mean yarn cross-section, one moves into the
Neps: Neps are defined as small, tight balls of entangled fibers seen in linear textile strands. Cross- These are the thick and thin places in yam which occur so rarely that spotting them would require testing
sectional size +140% to +400% of normal yarn with a fault length of 1 mm. at least 100,000 m of yarn. These faults may be classified further into the following types:
Thin and thick places are produced due to drafting irregularities and neps are generated due to immature
fibers in raw material.
1. Slubs
Objectionable yarn faults can be categorized in three groups:
2. Spun in fly
3. Long thin places 1. Faults due to raw material
2. Faults due to piecing
3. Faults due to Spinning machine
1. Faults due to raw material: The number of objectionable faults due to raw material varies from 16%
to 30% with different yarns.
2. Faults due to piecing: The number of objectionable faults due to piecing varies from 9% to 16% of the
total objectionable faults.
A - Spinning cop
B - Balloon breaker
C - Pre cleaner
D - Tensioner
E - Splicer
3. Faults due to spinning machine: The spinning frame (R/F) is responsible for about 50% to 60% of the I - Drum
total objectionable yarn defects.
J - Cone
1. Machine surfaces to be maintained clean. The supply package in the form of Spinning Cop (A) is kept on a peg in the creel. Yarn from the cop is
2. Broken teeth gear wheel to be avoided and proper meshing to be ensured. passed through balloon breaker (B) and Pre cleaner (C). The object of balloon breaker is to avoid snarls or
3. Setting at ring frame to be maintained. loops formation. The pre cleaner is used to remove adhering impurities. The yarn is then passed through
4. Removal of foreign matters (such as jute fibers, color cloth bits) to be ensured during preparation of tensioner (D) and Splicer (E). The tensioner consists of two discs and the discs are rotated by a motor.
mixing.
The advantage of positively driven tensioner is less wear & tear and even tension control. The object of
5. Better fiber individualization at cards to be achieved.
splicer is to join two broken ends pneumatically in the event of yarn breakage or cop exhaustion. The yarn
6. Correct tension weights and slub catcher settings to be employed at winding.
is then passed through Electronic yarn clearer (F) and cut clamp device (G). The function of Electronic
7. Optimum twist to be used for the type of cotton processed.
Yarn Clearer is to remove slubs, neps and thick places present in the yarn. Here the clearing efficiency of
8. The yarn to be conditioned.
this clearer is 80% and yarn abrasion is reduced. Cut clamp device is used to catch the broken end during
9. Vibration of bobbins on the spindles to be avoided.
splicing.
10. Use of optimum roller settings.
11. Optimum top roller pressure to be maintained. After this the yarn is passed through waxing unit (K), yarn trap (H), groove drum (I) and finally on to the
12. Use of travellars of correct size and shape and rings in good condition to be ensured. cone (J). The waxing unit is used for hosiery cones. As the yarn passes through the waxing unit, a wax
13. Optimum relative humidity to be maintained in the spinning room. coating is applied on the yarn.
This improves yarn qualities like smoothness and uniformity suitable for knitting machine. The yarn trap
suction tube is used to during splicing operation. The grooved drum is used to wind and traverse the yarn
on the cone.
This machine is a single sided machine normally about 60 winding positions. Spinning cops are fed by a iii) It monitors the data
magazine and the exhausted cops are delivered by a conveyor to a sorting table. A doff master is provided
Slub Catchers (OR) Yarn Clearers
to doff the cones. The machine runs at 1500 meters per minute.
Yarn clearer is a device which is used to remove faults (thick places, thin places, foreign matter
1.3.4 Special features of SCHLAFHORST AUTO CONER 238
etc.) from the yarn in order to increase the yarn quality and weaving efficiency. This device is
mainly used in winding steps.
1. Machine Speed: The machine runs at a delivery rate of 1500 meters per minute Slub Catchers (OR) Yarn Clearers
3. Splicer: The splicing unit consists of an intermingling chamber, in which the broken ends are placed The objective of using Slub Catchers is to arrest the slubs, neps, big knots and thick places
in overlapping manner. Then a jet of compressed air untwists and twists the broken ends together to present in the yarn.
form the yarn strand.
These faults are called as objectionable faults. If these faults are not removed they will
4. Electronic yarn clearer: This clearer eliminates slubs, neps, thick & thin places. cause either yarn breakages in the next machine or will be seen as prominent fabric defects.
5. Waxer: A positively driven waxing unit is provided. Waxing is done especially for knitted yarns Different Types of Yarn Clearer:
which improve yarn strength, smoothness and uniformity. There are two types of yarn clearer
6. Drum: Each winding drum is driven by a separate motor and controlled individually. The motor can Mechanical yarn clearer
be reversed during mending a broken end.
Electronic yarn clearer
7. Anti patterning device: This device engages and disengages the drum drive at regular intervals.
A. Mechanical yarn clearer:
Hence the required slippage in obtained to avoid patterning or ribboning. (The patterning or ribbon
formation (Ribboning ) can be defined as a yarn package defect to be occurring during yarn winding • Conventional manual-type winding machines are normally equipped with mechanical type clearer.
process, in which the yarn coils get laid on the top of the previous yarn coil').
• Mechanical clearer basically consist of an adjustable slot through which the yarn passes.
8. Auto doffer: The auto doffer replaces the full cones with empty cones. The length of yarn on the full
• It traps only thick places that are greater than the slot setting.
cone is selected in the monitoring control system.
• The device incorporates a cutting edge that breaks the yarn faults.
9. Magazine: The magazine consists of 6 pockets to hold 5 Spinning cops. Whenever it is required to
change the empty cop, the magazine rotates and a cop is transferred to the peg in the creel. The empty • Mechanical clearers are rarely used nowadays as they are not efficient in removing thin places and
cop is ejected on to a conveyor running behind the creel which deposits the empty cops on a sorting contaminants.
table.
Types of yarn clearers:
10. Suction unit: Each winding unit is fitted with suction duct to keep parts free of dust and fly.
• Mechanical type:
11. Monitoring information control system: This system is incorporated with a report print out. The • Fixed blade type
system has the following features. • Movable blade type
• Swinging blade type
i) It registers the production data like drum speed, efficiency etc
Fiber control Di-electric There are two common methods of applying tension on the yarn.
Oscillator
Additive method and Multiplicative method
Additive method of tensioners
Amplifier
In additive method, the yarn is passed between a roller and a plate or in between discs which are weighted
by dead weights or springs or electromagnets. In this method, the following types of tensioners are used.
Slub size discriminator Sensitivity control a) Washer type
b) Disc type
c) Combined washer and disc type
Knife actuator
d) Disc and spring type
A – Fixed comb
B - Spring C – Yarn
C - Knob D – Pulley
D - Yarn E – String
F - Weight
This type consists of two vertical combs. One comb is fixed (or) stationary while the other is movable. The
movable comb is connected to a weight arrangement. So this comb can be turned in and out around its
axis. Yarn is passed in between these two combs, alternately to the right and left. If the movable comb is
deflected more from the fixed comb, by the weight arrangement, it results in greater deflection in the yarn.
Hence more tension is applied on the yarn. Similarly less weight, leads to less tension on the yarn. Type of Drums: Generally in drum winding process grooved drums are used. In this grooved drum a
Compensating type: continuous helical grooves are interconnected in clock wise and anticlock wise direction. In drum winding,
This is the development in the Gate type of tensioner. In this type, a magnetic device controls the the surface speed of the drum is same throughout the process. If cheese is wound on the drum winding
deflection of the movable comb according to the tension variations and hence the winding tension is there is no problem in winding because of its having even smooth surface and also cheese is having same
maintained uniform. This method is used in modern automatic cone winding machines. speed as drum speed. But in case of cone winding on drum winding machine, the surface speed is varies
based on its circumference of the cone, problem arises in winding uniform package. In winding the cone,
Merits of multiplicative type of tensioners: base portion requires more length of yarn than the nose portion. This is achieved by using different type of
1. It will not affect the twist in the yarn drum. There are two different types of drums, 1. Half accelerated drum 2. Fully accelerated drum
2. Tension is applied gradually in the yarn
In half accelerated drum, the surface speed and traversing speed is constant throughout the
3. Some degree of self compensation in the tension is achieved
winding process. Length of yarn wound on the cone is same in both base and nose portion.
Demerits of multiplicative type of tensioners:
In fully accelerated drum, the traversing speed is varied by changing the angle of groove present in the
1. Incoming tension variations are multiplied
drum. So that the length of the yarn wound on the base portion is increased by decreasing the angle of
2. Threading is difficult
groove and length will be less in nose portion by increasing the angle of groove as shown in figure.
1.3.5 SPLICING:
This is a new technology for piecing up the broken ends. This is used in Schlafhorst Autoconers. A
Knots and Splicers In winding to get a continuous length of yarn, the yarn from sinning cops are
separate attachment is necessary for splicing the yarn.
combined. So it is necessary to piece two ends. Piecing is carried out by putting a knot. If manually a knot
Methods of Splicing:
is put, then the knot will be bigger and it will be serious in weaving. The knot may not go through the
There are two methods of splicing.
heald wires and reed wires in loom. Also in knitting thick knot will not pass through the needles. To avoid
1. Wet splicing 2. Air splicing
this, mechanical knitters are provided. These knitters are used to get a) Dog Knot b) Weaver‟s knot c)
1. Wet Splicing: This is carried out manually by the winders. Each winder is provided with a small
Fisherman‟s knot. For cotton yarn weaver‟s knot is adequate. For synthetic blends the weaver‟s knot mayslip
trough containing water, hanging from the winder neck by a small cord. In this method, the two broken
and hence the fisherman‟s knot is preferred. The best knot is that which gives least slippage and end
ends are overlapped and then water is applied to join them. In some machines this is done automatically
breakage under working condition.
by water jet principle. But this method is not much used.
2. Air Splicing: In this method, air is used to piece the two broken ends. There are two stages in this
splicing. In the first stage, the two broken ends are passed through suction holes provided in the splicing
unit and are untwisted by passing compressed air to open the fibers at the broken ends. Now in the second
stage, the two broken ends are overlapped in an inclined slot which is provided in an intermingling
chamber. After overlapping, a jet of compressed air is passed vertically and tangentially through the
intermingling chamber by which the joining of broken ends is achieved.
Advantages of Splicing:
1. Even yarn is produced
2. No tail end as in weaver’s knot and Fisherman’s knot. So shearers are not necessary
3. Yarn will easily pass through heald and reed wires. So weaving performance is improved.
4. In knitting needle breakages will be very less.
5. Fabrics produced by using the spliced yarns, will be superior in quality.
The knots are shown in figures. These are done manually also. But the tail ends will be longer.
So the knitters are used by workers in high speed winding machine. In automatic winding machine there is
knotter head which his used to suck ends from supply and delivery packages and knotting is done. Extra
tail ends are sheared by shearers. So there is less chances of big knots and yarn will be superior in quality.
Knotting is also carried out when an end breakage occurs. In high speed winding, a
broken thread stop motion wire works and the cone is lifted from the surface of the from. The
worker comes to the drum unit and takes end from cone then from cop. Then he puts the knot by
using the mechanical knotter. In automatic winding machines the knotter consists of two clamps.
One clamp sucks end from cone and another one sucks the end from cop and knotting is done
mechanically.
In automatic winders for putting weaver‟s knot and Fisherman‟s knot separate attachments
are necessary. For synthetic blends the Fisherman‟s knot is preferred than weaver‟s knot.