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The document provides instructions for crocheting a polar bear named Paddy. It includes materials needed and step-by-step directions to make the head, muzzle, ears, body and arms. Pictures are included to illustrate parts of the pattern.

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van.sct23
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© © All Rights Reserved
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Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
0% found this document useful (0 votes)
241 views

Con gấu

The document provides instructions for crocheting a polar bear named Paddy. It includes materials needed and step-by-step directions to make the head, muzzle, ears, body and arms. Pictures are included to illustrate parts of the pattern.

Uploaded by

van.sct23
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 8

1

Meet Paddy the Polar Bear! Paddy loves the cold weather! The thing he loves about it most of all
is that he gets to wear his favorite scarf. And who wouldn’t love wearing such a nice scarf?

© Holly Faith Salzman


2

The pattern and images contained in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written
pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute this pattern in part or in whole.

You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your
finished items online I would appreciate it if you’d link back to my shop! You may not mass-produce items
made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

Finished size approximately: 7.5 in. (19 cm.) tall

Materials: Abbreviation key (US terms):

 Worsted weight yarn (4 ply) in sc - single crochet


white, black, & blue. I like to use “I
st/sts - stitch(es)
Love this Yarn” or “Red Heart”.
(U.K. equivalent is Aran & AUS/NZ Sl st – slip stitch
is 10 ply.)
Hdc – half double crochet

 F (3.75 mm) crochet hook dec - decrease (join the next 2 stitches
together)
 15mm black safety eyes
inc - increase (2 single crochet in the
next stitch)
 Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
BLO – Back Loops Only
 Yarn needle
R1 - round 1

 Scissors Rep – repeat

** - repeat this group of instructions


 Stitch marker
amount of times indicated

Note: All rounds are worked


continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)

Please don’t hesitate to contact me with any problems you may have! I’m always happy to help!

© Holly Faith Salzman


3

Head (using white yarn) R30: *Sc 1, dec 1* rep 6 times, sc 27, *sc 1,
dec 1* rep 6 times, sc 27 (78 Sts)
R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (you can
use the magic circle if you prefer as it won’t R31: *Sc 11, dec 1* rep 6 times (72 sts)
make a difference in the end.)
R32: *Sc 10, dec 1* rep 6 times (66 sts)
R2: *Inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R33: *Sc 9, dec 1* rep 6 times (60 sts)
R3: *Sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R34: *Sc 8, dec 1* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R4: *Sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R35: *Sc 7, dec 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R5: *Sc 3, inc 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R36: *Sc 6, dec 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R6: *Sc 4, inc 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
Insert the eyes between R26 & 27 about 18
R7: *Sc 5, inc 1* rep 6 times (42 sts) sts apart. (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 18
sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st
R8: *Sc 6, inc 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)
eye and insert the 2nd eye.) Make sure
R9: *Sc 7, inc 1* rep 6 times (54 sts) they’re evenly space between the cheeks.
See pic. #1
R10: *Sc 8, inc 1* rep 6 times (60 sts)

R11: *Sc 9, inc 1* rep 6 times (66 sts)

R12: *Sc 10, inc 1* rep 6 times (72 sts)

R13: *Sc 11, inc 1* rep 6 times (78 sts)

R14-24: Sc in all 78 sts (11 rounds total—78


sts)

R25: *Sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times, sc 27, *sc 1,


inc 1* rep 6 times, sc 27 (90 Sts)
Pic. #1
R26: *Sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times, sc 27, *sc 2,
inc 1* rep 6 times, sc 27 (102 Sts)
R37: *Sc 5, dec 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R27-28: Sc in all 102 sts (2 rounds total—102
R38: *Sc 4, dec 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)
Sts)
Stop and start to stuff the head, continuing
R29: *Sc 2, dec 1* rep 6 times, sc 27, *sc 2,
as you work. Make sure to stuff the cheeks
dec 1* rep 6 times, sc 27 (90 Sts)
firmly.

© Holly Faith Salzman


4

R39: *Sc 3, dec 1* rep 6 times (24 sts) sc 5, inc 1 (20 sts)

R40: *Sc 2, dec 1* rep 6 times (18 sts) R4: Sc 2, inc 1, sc 4, *sc 2, inc 1* rep 2 times,
sc 6, inc 1 (24 sts)
R41: *Sc 1, dec 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R5: Sc 3, inc 1, sc 4, *sc 3, inc 1* rep 2 times,
R42: *Dec 1* rep 6 times (6 sts)
sc 7, inc 1 (28 sts)
Finish off. Finish stuffing head firmly, and
R6-7: Sc in all 28 sts (2 rounds total—28 sts)
use the tail to sew up hole, then weave in
your end. Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Take
some black yarn and embroider a nose over
the muzzle. (See pic. #15 on the last page to
Muzzle (using white yarn) see exactly how I did mine.) Sew to his head
over R22-31, right between the eyes. Just
R1: Ch 7, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 6, before fully closing it up, stuff firmly. (See
turn and sc 6 in the front loops of the ch (12 pic. #3.)
sts)

(See pic. #2.) This is called a foundation


chain and is a great way to start a piece that
you want to be more oval than round. After
crocheting through the top loops of the
chain, you turn your work around and
crochet in the bottom loops of the chain.
The first round is complete! Now you just
continue as you normally would.

R2: *Inc 1, sc 4, inc 1* rep 2 times (16 sts)

R3: Sc 1, inc 1, sc 4, *sc 1, inc 1* rep 2 times, Pic. #3

Pic. #2
© Holly Faith Salzman
5

Ears (make 2 using white yarn)

R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook

R2: *Inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *Sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *Sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5-7: Sc in all 24 sts (3 rounds total—24 sts)

Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Do not


stuff. Sew the open ends together (see pic. Pic. #6
#4) and sew to either side of the head over
Body (using white yarn)
R10-19. (See pics. #5 & #6.)
R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook

R2: *Inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *Sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *Sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *Sc 3, inc 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: *Sc 4, inc 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R7: *Sc 5, inc 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)


Pic. #4 R8: *Sc 6, inc 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R9: *Sc 7, inc 1* rep 6 times (54 sts)

R10-21: Sc in all 54 sts (12 rounds total—54


sts)

R22: *Sc 7, dec 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R23: Sc in all 48 sts (48 sts)

Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Stuff


firmly and sew to the head. (See pic. #7.)

Pic. #5
© Holly Faith Salzman
6

Pic. #7 Pic. #8
Arms (make 2 using white yarn)

R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook

R2: *Inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3-4: Sc in all 12 sts (2 rounds total—12 sts)

R5: Sc 3, *dec 1* rep 3 times, sc 3 (9 sts)

R6-8: Sc in all 9 sts (3 rounds total—9 sts)

R9: *Sc 2, inc 1* rep 3 times (12 sts)


Pic. #9
R10-12: Sc in all 12 sts (3 rounds total—12
sts) Legs (make 2 using white yarn)

Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Stuff R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
semi-firmly. Sew the open ends closed and
R2: *Inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
sew at a slight angle to the body over R17-
23. (See pics. #8 & front pics.) If you want R3: *Sc 2, inc 1* rep 4 times (16 sts)
the arms to be hugging the body, as I did,
sew part of the sides of the arm down (3-4 R4-6: Sc in all 16 sts (3 rounds total—16 sts)
sts will do), as seen in pic. #9. (He is upside
R7: Sc 4, *dec 1* rep 4 times, sc 4 (12 sts)
down in pic. #9.)
R8-10: Sc in all 12 sts (3 rounds total—12
sts)

© Holly Faith Salzman


7

R11: *Sc 2, inc 1* rep 4 times (16 sts) R3-4: Sc in all 12 sts (2 rounds total—12 sts)

R12-14: Sc in all 16 sts (3 rounds total—16 Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. No
sts) need to stuff. Sew open ends closed and
sew to the back of the body over R8. (See
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Stuff
front pics.)
semi-firmly. Sew the open ends closed and
sew to the body over R6-13. (See pics. #10 &
front pics.) Sew part of the tops of the legs
Scarf (using blue yarn)
down to the body if you want his legs to be
hugging the sides, just like you did for the R1: Ch 6, starting in 3rd ch from hook, hdc 4,
arms. (See pic. #11.) ch 1, turn (4 sts)

R2-63: In BLO hdc in all 4 sts, ch 1, turn (4


sts)

This is how long I made my scarf, but you


can make yours as long or short as you like!
You can also make it wider or shorter than 4
sts. Once you’re done, finish off and add
fringe to the bottom of each edge of the
scarf. I added one piece of fringe for each
stitch. (See pics. #12, 13, & 14.) Trim fringe
to desired length.
Pic. #10

Pic. #11
Tail (using white yarn) Pic. #12
R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook

R2: *Inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)

© Holly Faith Salzman


8

Pic. #13 Pic. #15


Embroider the lines you see illustrated in red
first. This will create a nice triangle. Now
embroider the lines you see illustrated in
black. Once you finish filling in the triangle,
you may want to go over the sides and top
again (that is the parts in red) with your yarn
and needle to ensure no white is showing
through. NOTE: Color differences are for
illustration purposes only. The entire nose
should be embroidered with black yarn.
Pic. #14
Congratulations, now you’re done! I hope
you enjoyed making this cutie and I would
love to see pictures of your finished bear!
You can share pictures on:

Instagram: @storyland_amis

Facebook: Storyland Amis

Or email me: [email protected]

© Holly Faith Salzman

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