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Rosa

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5 views68 pages

Rosa

Uploaded by

linahabdullah39
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© © All Rights Reserved
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ABOUT

ROSA CANINA
The Wild Rose, which is the scientific term of the
founder’s birthname, Nesreen. From an early age
and for as long as she can remember, seamstress
has been in Nesreen’s life. She descends from a
family that has worked in weaving and textiles
since the early 1950s.
Her grandfather was a tailor who spent his life
sourcing the finest fabrics in Turkey and ensuring
his handiwork is seamless and perfected. He then
taught his daughter everything he knows in his
craft, and she, in turn, went on to practice this
knowledge and use it in tailoring even the clothes
the family wore. Nesreen and her siblings grew up
to admire and cherish their mother’s and grandfa-
ther’s legacy. In a sense, tailoring is the heirloom
that sparked her passion for fine fabric. It enriched
her eye for well-tailored suits, which she has always
aimed to make herself. Handpicking the fabrics
from Italy, England,

PASSIONATE ABOUT INSPIRING OTHERS

and Japan. Keeping a sharp eye for the lining.


Selecting and creating pieces with the utmost care
and passion. The brand, Rosa Canina, is a testa-
ment to how completely devoted the founder is to
delivering the finest suits created with the best
fabrics. Suits that are 100% dedicated to the client.
Rosa Canina’s aim isn’t only to set the definition of
excellence but to push it even further.
THE HISTORY
OF SUIT
1940
The 1940 suits were characterized
by minimalism. The gray flannel
suit became the option of choice
for professional everyday wear. It
wasn’t double- breasted, but
rather single-breasted, and it had
narrow lapels and a very trim-cut
trouser without cuffs, in order to
save fabric.
For the same reasons, waistcoats
or vests became unpopular. If you
look at the suit from the 1940s, it is
very close to the fashion of a 2020
suit, because it’s lean, trim, and
overall very slim. Of course, the
fabrics were still a lot heavier than
they are today and they also had a
bit more texture than what you
would get today.

1950
During the 1950s, the post-war rebel-
lion definitely had an impact on the
suit. To the end of austerity, some
people went back to the suit style
from before the war so lapels came
wider, pants had pleats again, and it
wasn’t as slim anymore.
1990
The next decade is another low point of the
suit. They basically took the worst aspects of
the ’80s suits, pronounced it, made it even
more ugly. The ’90s suit was more clownish;
single breasted jackets sometimes had three
or even four buttons, double-breasted ones
had six buttons but only the very bottom one
was buttoned on an extremely low buttoning
point so just the proportions looked off. Pants
were boxy and baggy and were too long and
puddled around the ankles.

THE NEW
MILLENNIUM THE
2000
In contrast to that, the early 2000s saw the return
of the slim-fit suit. The new millennium brought
a total reaction to the fully cut, puddling suits of
the ’80s and ’90s, and went back more to a mini-
malist style that we had seen before in the ’40s.
Some would even argue that it went back more
to a 1960s mod-style suit.
Not only did the suit get slimmer but it also got
shorter and the buttoning point got higher. At
the same time, some people preferred to wear
the black suit as an easy way to create a minimal-
ist uniform that was reduced. Pants were often
hemmed quite short, jackets had narrow lapels.
SUIT FIT TYPES
Slim Fit Suit
slim fit is the type of men’s suit–while true to
the body’s natural contours–usually stops
short of highlighting definition. The suit
jackets typically provide just enough sleek-
ness down without giving away too much of
what’s really under there. This is generally
more of a casual fashion-style of suit, and less
suited.

Classic Fit
This popular men’s suit type provides
breathability without resorting to a loose or
unkempt aesthetic–they don’t call it “classic”
for nothing. It’s safe to say, classic suits will
never go out of style.

Modern Fit
This style hovers squarely in the realm
between slim fit and classic fit, and thereby
delivers a tight look with breathing room to
spare. Modern suit styles are made to conquer
any outing, from casual to dressy.
LAPEL SHAPE AND WIDTH
Notch Lapel
A mainstay on single breasted jackets, and
arguably the most common type of suit
lapel, the notch lapel is defined by a visible
indent at the spot where the collar meets the
lapel.

Shawl Lapel
shawl lapels are more or less exclusively
found on formal wear like tuxedos and fancy
dinner jackets. Entailed in the shawl lapel’s
aesthetic is a timeless sense of class and
distinction. These lapels provide a welcom-
ing complement to most men’s formal wear
styles.
Peak Lapel
The peak lapel has the top lapel edges
facing upward at sharp angles immediately
below the collar. It’s most commonly found
on double breasted suits and thereby a
frequent player at formal events. While not
as immediately extravagant as the shawl
lapel, the peak lapel nevertheless emanates
with sophistication and high-end style.
SUIT TYPE
SUIT TYPE Single Breasted suit
Among types of men’s
suits, the single breasted
suit is the most ubiqui-
tous. The easiest way to
spot one is to look for the
inclusion of either one,
two or three buttons
along the seam, or just
observe what about 99%
of professional men wear
to work to every day. By
virtue of the single row of
buttons.
Double Breasted Suit
The double breasted suit
includes additional
buttons on either side of
the jacket for aesthetic
purposes. The total
number of buttons ranges
from four to eight and
typically lands at six.
While previously relegat-
ed to formal events, the double breasted suit is catching on among fashion-
forward men. The modernized suit works great with a variety of colors and
most commonly features peak lapels on the jacket.
Unstructured Blazer
Some men think interior padding and stylish blazers are invariably part of
the same package. However, the men’s unstructured blazer is here to
change such preconceived notions. By removing the interior padding, the
unstructured blazer breaks free from conformity and constraint to deliver a
soft fit and somewhat laid back aesthetonmic. Frequently composed of a
single layer of material, the unstructured blazer makes for ideal spring or
summertime wear because it takes weight off the body. That said, men
should proceed with caution because there can be a fine line between
casual suits for men and downright unkempt. The idea is to find an unstruc-
tured blazer that captures your sartorial style and fun-loving spirit in equal
measure. Keep it loose, but not too loose.
BLAZER
VENT TYPES
Centre Vent Suit (American)
The vent is that small slit you notice on the
backside of a blazer or jacket. When the vent is
cut up the middle, it’s known as a centre vent.
with centre vent, the suit jacket tends to part
slightly when your hands are your pockets,
sometimes exposing your back. Otherwise, the
centre vent should remain closed when you’re
wearing the jacket. If the vent is parted when
you’re hands aren’t in your pockets, it means
your jacket is the wrong fit.
Side Vent (English)
As the name implies, side vents cut the slit on
both sides to keep the jacket from parting or
bunching when you put your hands in your
pockets or take a seat. The wide middle flap not
only keeps your back covered, but prevents
creasing and retains a slimmer appearance.
No Vent (Italian)
Popular in Italy, the no vent men’s suit offers
elegant style and a custom fit. However, without
any vents, the jacket itself is more prone to
creasing or bunching when you put your hands
in your pockets or sit down.
BLAZER LINING TYPES
Fully Lined Men's Blazers
A touch above half-lined blazers in
terms of structure, our fully lined
blazers are still lightweight and incredi-
bly wearable. A breathable 100%
polyester lining throughout helps
support the structure of the blazer and
keeps the wearer comfortably warm.
The fully lined blazers is a perfect
choice for smart casual or professional
occasions.
Half-Lined Men's Blazers
“Buggy-back," the name of our
half-lined blazer, refers to the curved,
two-piece polyester lining that over-
laps across the back of the shoulders,
inside the blazer. Half-lined gives just
enough form and structure without
the bulk often found in fully lined
blazers. Because our buggy-back
leaves the inside of the jacket
exposed, we spent extra time making
sure the inside looks as pristine as the
outside.
Unlined Men's Blazers
Unlined blazers are completely
“gutted," meaning the inside of the
jacket doesn't have any lining. It's
completely bare, showcasing the
design and construction of the
garment. The one exception is the
sleeves, which are lined with 100%
polyester. Our collection of brushed
cotton blazers features this design
and they are ideal for layering and
more casual occasions.
BLAZER POCKET TYPES

Piped pockets Patch pockets Slanted pockets


No pocket flaps, feature no flap but Are made from separate pieces of Also known as hacking pockets.
are otherwise identical to flap pock- the suit fabric stitched directly onto one advantage of slanted pock-
ets. With ultra clean lines and the outside front of the suit jacket or ets is that it can help shorter or
minimal visual bulk, this is inherently blazer. This suit pocket type is the stockier men appear taller and
the most formal of the suit jacket earliest and most primitive take on leaner due to the angle, naturally
pocket types. pocket construction. drawing the eye upwards instead
of outwards.
Ticket pockets
For the uninitiated, the ticket pocket is
the small flapped or jetted pocket
(occasionally, it can be patch, straight,
or on a hacking angle), religiously
placed just above the right main hip
pocket on a men’s jacket. It is normally
roughly half as wide as the pocket
below it.

Flap pockets
The most common pocket type. You’ll
find it on every kind of blazer or suit
jacket from casual sport coats to
conservative business attire.

BLAZER
POCKET TYPES
Fasting pockets
The pocket stands as one of the
biggest sartorial landmarks in the histo-
ry of clothing. Allowing us to store and
transport our personal effects safely
and comfortably, we all use pockets on
a daily basis. But as well as their func-
tional purposes, pockets form a large
part of a garment’s design process,
meaning there is a whole host of
pocket styles out there.
BLAZER
VENT TYPES
Centre Vent Suit (American)

The vent is that small slit you notice on the backside of a


blazer or jacket. When the vent is cut up the middle, it’s
known as a centre vent. with centre vent, the suit jacket
tends to part slightly when your hands are your pockets,
sometimes exposing your back. Otherwise, the centre
vent should remain closed when you’re wearing the
jacket. If the vent is parted when you’re hands aren’t in
your pockets, it means your jacket is the wrong fit.

Side Vent (English)

As the name implies, side vents cut the slit on both sides
to keep the jacket from parting or bunching when you
put your hands in your pockets or take a seat. The wide
middle flap not only keeps your back covered, but
prevents creasing and retains a slimmer appearance.

No Vent (Italian)

Popular in Italy, the no vent men’s suit offers elegant style


and a custom fit. However, without any vents, the jacket
itself is more prone to creasing or bunching when you
put your hands in your pockets or sit down.
TROUSERS TYPES
Flat Front Pants
A standard among men’s pants, flat front
pants are pretty much what they sound
like. That is, the fabriclies flat at the front
and delivers a slim, tight fit. You can wear
flat front pants a little lower on the waist
line to rock a stylish, slender silhouette.
Pleated Pants
Pleats are creases on both sides at the
front of the pants, which result from the
material being folded and sewed before
it’s attached to the waistband. Conse-
quently, pleated pants are looser in the
middle and best worn slightly above the
hip to avoid billowing out at the thighs.
No Break
Thom Browne’s shrunken suit forever
changed the face of men’s dress pants.
While the above-the-ankle style can only
truly be pulled off by some, many guys
feel comfortable with a “no break” hem,
where the pant leg just kisses the top of
the shoe. Looks Best On: slim dudes,
short dudes, Italian guys, wannabe Italian
guys, young bucks, the fashion set.
Medium Break
This is an ideal look for those with a more
conservative style, who don’t want a
tapered or slim trouser and want to go
with a cuff. Looks Best On: middle-aged
guys, conservative businessmen, gentle-
men carrying around a little extra weight.

TROUSERS
BREAKS
Full Break
Full disclosure: ideally, to pull off this
style and for it to look “right,” the pant leg
needs to be wider than is pictured here.
This is my widest pair of pants and I did
my best to show what a full break might
look like. In a perfect world, there is a
decent amount of fabric pooling at the
ankle, but it should look a bit more
elegant than shown.
Looks Best On: older gentleman, heavier
gentleman, wide-leg trousers,
vintage/throw-back dudes.
All suit trousers pants will either be hemmed or cuffed at the bottom.
Hemmed means the bottom fabric is turned up on the inside, while cuffed
means the bottom fabric is turned up on the outside. Both styles are popular,
though you’re more likely to see hemmed than cuffed.
The general rule of thumb is that flat-front pants should be hemmed and
pleated pants should be cuffed, but it’s a loose rule at best. That said, pleat-
ed pants should normally include cuffs in order to add weight, smooth out
the fabric and give off a cleaner vibe.

TROUSERS BOTTOM TYPE


Full Break
Full disclosure: ideally, to pull off this
style and for it to look “right,” the pant
leg needs to be wider than is pictured
here. This is my widest pair of pants and
I did my best to show what a full break
might look like. In a perfect world, there
is a decent amount of fabric pooling at
the ankle, but it should look a bit more
elegant than shown.
Looks Best On: older gentleman, heavi-
er gentleman, wide-leg trousers,
vintage/throw-back dudes.
Two Button Rounded Cuff
The two button rounded cuff is dressier than a
one-button cuff, but not as formal as a two-button
mitered cuff. This cuff is fused to keep a crisp
appearance and 2.875′′ long.
Two Button Mitered Cuff
The two button mitered cuff is a popular dress shirt
cuff that is dressier and more elegant than a
standard barrel cuff. The two button placement
makes this cuff a good match for wearing with
watches. This cuff is fused to keep a crisp, dressy
appearance and measures 2.875′′ long.
French Cuff
Our standard French Cuff is the go-to choice for
tuxedo shirts. It is a completely square cuff shape
and requires cufflinks to be worn. This cuff is fused
to keep a crisp, dressy appearance and measures
2.875′′ long when folded back.
Rounded French Cuff
The two button mitered cuff is a popular dress shirt
cuff that is dressier and more elegant than a
standard barrel cuff. The two button placement
makes this cuff a good match for wearing with
watches. This cuff is fused to keep a crisp, dressy
appearance and measures 2.875′′ long.
Convertible Square Cuff
The convertible square cuff can be worn either
buttoned like a barrel cuff, or with cufflinks. This cuff is
fused to keep a crisp appearance and is 2.5′′ long.
Soft One Button Cuff
The same shape as our one button barrel, but without
the stiff fusing. This is a soft, comfortable cuff that is a
good match for casual style shirts. Without the fusing,
the cuff shows personality and a bit of puckering. Cuff
measures 2.375′′ long.
Soft Long One Button
Cuff
The same shape as our long one button barrel, but
without the stiff fusing. This is a soft, comfortable cuff
that is a good match for casual style shirts. We based
this cuff off the style common among the great Neapoli-
tan shirt makers, and it contributes to a more proportion-
ally balanced look for guys with longer arms (34′′ or so
and up). Cuff measured 2.875′′ long.
SHORT BUTTON-DOWN COLLAR
Thanks to its reduced length
compared to the previously
mentioned version, the short
button-down collar has a particular-
ly casual and youthful appearance
compared to the more longer
option.
CLUB COLLAR (ROUND)
Very much in vogue in the 1920s,
the Club collar was born as a distin-
guishing feature for the uniforms of
an English school looking for a way
to differentiate its students and it is
characterized by its rounded tips,
hence the alternative
name “round collar”.
BAND COLLAR
Inspired by the traditional lines of
the Far East (Korea or mandarin),
the band collar has a very particular
and characteristic shape: practically
without collar point length, it
consists of a single “band” about 3
cm high, to button on the front.
WINGTIP COLLAR (TUXEDO)
It is the most formal type of collar, by
definition “the collar of the shirt for
the bow tie“. A unique design de-
tail, characterised by very small
point length and placed only on the
front.
SHIRT
BACK TYPES
SHIRT
BACK TYPES
No Back Pleats
on the back of the shirt makes for a clean,
minimal look. If you’re going for a more
modern, slim look that is fitted through
the chest and midsection then this will be
the best choice, visually.
Centre Box Pleats
The center box pleat is a classic design
detail and a more casual option tradition-
ally seen on Brooks Brothers’ button
downs or similar styles. Each side of the
pleat adds 0.75” to the upper back of the
shirt, for a total of 3”, to increase range of
motion when reaching forward. In terms
of style, the center box pleat is not the
go-to recommendation for super slim-fit-
ting dress shirts due to its classic/conser-
vative design association.

Rear Side Pleats


Rear side pleats, also sometimes called
“knife pleats,” are placed just below the
yoke, out towards the ends of the shoul-
ders. Each pleat is 0.5” wide. Selecting
rear side pleats will add a total of 2” of
additional fabric to the upper back of the
shirt while keeping the yoke and chest
width the same. Rear side pleats are a
great option if you want to increase range
of motion when reaching forward.
what Are Back Darts?
Back darts
Are two simple straight seams, i.e. a fold
and stitch on either side on the back of
your
dress shirt. What this means is that
additional fabric in
the back of the shirt is folded inwards
and then stitched,
leaving a pinch showing on either side of
the back of the shirt
what Are Back Darts?
Back darts
Are two simple straight seams, i.e. a fold and stitch on either side on the back of your
dress shirt. What this means is that additional fabric in
the back of the shirt is folded inwards and then stitched,
leaving a pinch showing on either side of the back of the shirt
‫اﻟﻛﻼم ﯾﻛون ﻋن اﻟﻠون‬
TROUSERS TYPES
Flat Front Pants
A standard among men’s pants, flat front
pants are pretty much what they sound
like. That is, the fabriclies flat at the front
and delivers a slim, tight fit. You can wear
flat front pants a little lower on the waist
line to rock a stylish, slender silhouette.
Pleated Pants
Pleats are creases on both sides at the
front of the pants, which result from the
material being folded and sewed before
it’s attached to the waistband. Conse-
quently, pleated pants are looser in the
middle and best worn slightly above the
hip to avoid billowing out at the thighs.

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