M10-Developing Embellishment On Garment

Fashion design
Level-II
Based on March 2022, Curriculum Version 1
Module Title: - Developing and applying embellishment on garment

Module code: IND FAD2 M10 0322
Nominal duration: 40 Hour
Prepared by: Ministry of Labor and Skill
August, 2022
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

Table of Content
Table of Content ............................................................................................................ 1
Acknowledgment........................................................................................................... 3
Introduction to the Module ........................................................................................... 4
Unit one: Interpreting design brief or specifications ................................................ 5

1.1. Identifying type of embellishment required for garment. .................................. 8
1.1.2 Different Types of Embellishment Techniques: ....................................... 8
1.1.3. Fabric Surface Embellishment................................................................ 9
1.2 Identifying methods of embellishing by hand or machine. ................................ 9
1.2.1Fabric Surface Embellishment Techniques: ............................................. 9
1.3 Identifying type of embroidery required. .......................................................... 15
1.4.1 Main points of embroidery file review in machine .................................. 18
1.5. Identifying methods of embroidery by hand ................................................... 19
1.5.1. Tools of hand embroidery ..................................................................... 20
1.6. Identifying criteria for selection of threads ..................................................... 22
Self-Check -1 ........................................................................................................ 26
Operation sheet-1 ................................................................................................. 27
Lap test -1............................................................................................................. 29
Unit Two: Preparing work pieces and workstation ................................................. 30

2.1. Laying out work pieces. ................................................................................. 31
2.2. Setting up equipment and materials .............................................................. 32
2.2.1 Embroidery Tools .................................................................................. 32
2.2.2. Embroidery Materials ........................................................................... 33
2.3. Performing routine minor maintenance. ......................................................... 34
2.4. Reporting and recording any problems .......................................................... 35
Self-Check -2 ........................................................................................................ 36
Operation Sheet 2.1.............................................................................................. 37
Operation Sheet 2.2.............................................................................................. 39
LAP Test ............................................................................................................... 40
Unit Three: Placing embroidery on garment ............................................................ 41

3.1. Following OHS practices ............................................................................... 42
3.1.1. Equipment and material safety ............................................................. 43
3.1.2. Safety procedures ................................................................................ 43
3.2. Completing hand embroidery ......................................................................... 44
Page 1 of 72 Ministry of Labor and Developing and applying Version -1

Skills embellishment on garment April, 2022
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3.3. Assessing work .......................................................................................... 44
Self-Check -3.1 ..................................................................................................... 46
Operation sheet 3.2 .............................................................................................. 47
LAP Test ............................................................................................................... 49
Unit Four: Selecting appropriate embellishment components .............................. 50

4.1. Identifying criteria for selection of threads. .................................................... 51
4.2. Attaching types of decorations to be identifying ............................................. 51
Self-Check -4 ........................................................................................................ 54
Operation sheet-4 ................................................................................................. 55
Lap test -4............................................................................................................. 56
Unit Five: Embellishing garment or piece ............................................................... 57

5.1. Assessing work with quality standards and production. ................................. 58
5.2. Adjusting machine to ensure optimum performance. ..................................... 58
Self-check-5 .......................................................................................................... 59
Operation sheet -5- ............................................................................................... 60
Practical demonstration ........................................................................................ 60
Unit Six: Dispatching completed work ................................................................... 61

6.1. Checking garments quality standards. ........................................................... 62
6.2. Recording and Completing work documentation. .......................................... 64
6.3. Completing garments to next operation. ........................................................ 65
Self-Check -6 ........................................................................................................ 66
Operation Sheet -6 ............................................................................................... 67
LAP Test -6 ........................................................................................................... 68
Reference ............................................................................................................. 69

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Acknowledgment
Ministry of Labor and Skills wish to extend thanks and appreciation to the many
representatives of TVET instructors and respective industry experts who donated their time and
expertise to the development of this Teaching, Training and Learning Materials (TTLM)

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Introduction to the Module
This module covers the knowledge; skills and attitude required to embellish a garment using
hand or machine techniques and applying embroidery on garments/articles, either at the
completion of production, or during the production stage.
This module covers the units:
 Interpreting design brief or specifications
 Preparing work pieces and workstation
 Placing embroidery on garment
 Selecting appropriate embellishment components
 Embellishing garment or piece
 Dispatching completed work
Learning Objective of the Module
 Interpret design brief or specifications
 Prepare work pieces and workstation
 Embroidery on garment /article or piece
 Select appropriate embellishment components
 Embellish garment or piece
 Dispatch completed work
Module Instruction
For effective use this modules trainees are expected to follow the following module instruction:
Read the information written in each unit
Accomplish the Self-checks at the end of each unit
Perform Operation Sheets which were provided at the end of units
Do the “LAP test” giver at the end of each unit and
Read the identified reference book for Examples and exercise

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Unit one: Interpreting design brief or specifications
This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content
coverage and topics:
 Identifying type of embellishment required for garment.
 Determining the requirement of embellishment specifications used for garments.
 Identifying garment considerations based on specification.
 Identifying methods of embellishing by hand or machine.
 Identifying type of embroidery required.
 Determining embroidery specifications.
 Identifying methods of embroidery by hand.
 Identifying criteria for selection of threads.
This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
 Identify type of embellishment required for garment.
 Embellishment specifications are determined used for garment.
 Garment considerations are identified.
 Methods of embellishing by hand or machine are identified.
 Identify type of embroidery required.
 Embroidery specifications are determined..
 Methods of embroidery by hand are identified.
 Criteria for selection of threads are identified.

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Learning Instructions:
1. Read the specific objectives of this Learning Guide.
2. Follow the instructions described in number 3 to 15.
3. Read the information written in the “Information Sheets 1”. Try to understand what are being
discussed. Ask you trainer for assistance if you have hard time understanding them.
4. Accomplish the “Self-check 1” in page 07.
5. Ask from your trainer the key to correction (key answers) or you can request your trainer to
correct your work. (You are to get the key answer only after you finished answering the Self-
check 1).
6. If you earned a satisfactory evaluation proceed to “Information Sheet 2”. However, if your
rating is unsatisfactory, see your trainer for further instructions or go back to Learning Activity
#1.
7. Submit your accomplished Self-check. This will form part of your training portfolio.
8. Read the information written in the “Information Sheet 2”. Try to understand what are being
check 2).
11. Read the information written in the “Information Sheets 3. Try to understand what are being
check 3).

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14. Read the information written in the “Information Sheets 4. Try to understand what are being
check 3).
17. If you earned a satisfactory evaluation proceed to “Operation Sheet 1” in page 58. However,
if your rating is unsatisfactory, see your trainer for further instructions or go back to Learning
Activity #1.
18. Do the “LAP test” in page 63 (if you are ready). Request your trainer to evaluate your
performance and outputs. Your trainer will give you feedback and the evaluation will be either
satisfactory or unsatisfactory. If unsatisfactory, your trainer shall advice you on additional work.
But if satisfactory you can proceed to Learning Guide

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1.1. Identifying type of embellishment required for garment.
1.1.2 Different Types of Embellishment Techniques:
A. Surface embellishment techniques:
Surface embellishment is an important component of free form; it is a great way of bringing your
personality, style and skills to your work and putting your own stamp on your project. In fashion
designing, there are 1000’s of ways to embellish fabrics, garments and any other items.
B. Textile embellishment techniques:
Textile embellishment can take many forms, with pattern work following the suggestion of
nature, the geometrical abstract, fonts and lettering. It can be perceived as a subtlety, the
changing of color, line and texture, or it can be much bolder, using large-scale shapes and
patterns. Whatever the technique or suggestion for composition, the end result is always nearly
the same, to make something more than it was, to add decoration to enhance its attraction to the
individual.
C. Embellishment in decorative arts:
Embellishment techniques are not only applied on the surface of fabric and textiles, it is also
applying any kind of decorative items. Ceramics, glass, metal, wood in fact all the major and
minor decorative arts, used embellishment, as a legitimate tool in which to decoratively enhance
their results.
The first step in embroidered custom decorated apparel is having an acceptable and accurate art
file to work from. All digital files are redrawn as virtual stitches to communicate the design to
the embroidery machine. The process for redrawing a design or logo as stitches is called
digitizing. The cleanest files produce the perfect embroidery.
Embellishment refers to the process of adding color, pattern, texture or design to fabric through
the use of outside mediums such as thread, ribbon, sequins, yarns, buttons, buttonholes and more.
Common examples of embellishment in sewing and crafts. Appliqué Embroidery, done either by
machine or by hand. An embellishment is a decoration added to something to make it seem more
attractive or interesting.

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1.1.2. Embellishment
Embellishment or ornamentation or decoration is anything that enhances the appearance of
garments or fashion accessories and adds more value in terms of money that are normally added
or attached to fabrics without actually having any functional purpose. In sewing and crafts an
embellishment is the action of adding anything decorative items through the use of the visual
arts. There are various methods and techniques for embellishment of fabric or garment.
1.1.3. Fabric Surface Embellishment

Fabric embellishments are the ornamentation that normally added to fabrics to make them more
beautiful and gorgeous, because of the nature of decorative patterns, which they create. Different
kinds of surface design techniques are used for embellishing the fabric. Most common materials
that can be used for this process include fringe, boutiques, beads, and buttons.
In addition to the multitude of construction and finishing techniques used, the fabric can also be
worked upon or embellished in a variety of ways to enhance its surface. Most embellishing
methods, such as embroidery, quilting, applique and bead-work are age-old techniques of
decorating fabric and are still largely executed by hand. A specialized industrial sector in
trimmings, lacework, embroidery and other embellishments has also developed that uses
innovative technology to recreate the hand-worked effects on an industrial scale and pace.
1.2 Identifying methods of embellishing by hand or machine.

Hand embroidery is any type of needlework that is done without a machine. Hand embroidered
pieces are usually made on a piece of material with a pattern outlined on it. Some people may
embroider freestyle, using material that doesn't have a printed pattern.
Hand embroidery involves stitching embroidery designs by hand onto the fabric. This process is
time-consuming and particular, but produces amazing results.
1.2.1Fabric Surface Embellishment Techniques:

A few fabric and garment embellishment techniques are briefly discussed in below:
1. Embroidery:
Fabric embellishment with stitches in yarn or thread, using a needle, is one of the oldest forms of
art. While the library of embroidery includes hundreds of varieties of stitches, they can be
categorized broadly into four main techniques raised work or stump-work where raised effects

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are created by stitching over pads of wool and cotton; couched work creating a pattern with cords
by sewing them onto the base fabric; flat running and filling stitches of which there are hundreds;
and counted thread embroidery, e.g. needlepoint and cross stitch, where the stitches are placed
over a counted number of threads of the base fabric. Schiffli embroidery is an example of
machine embroidery made on the ‘Schiffli’ machine that works sideways with a thousand
needles. This machine embroiders with a top, decorative and a back, binding yarn, and is used
for making laces and sheer curtain fabrics. Many embroidery stitches can now be produced in
digitized embroidery machines which, for large scale production, have multiple heads to produce
a number of identical designs simultaneously using an embroidery software program.
Figure 1.1: Embroidery
2. Quilting:
Quilting is the technique of embellishing fabrics stitching together, by hand or machine, multiple
layers of fabric with a filling of cotton, foam or polyester batting in between the layers. Quilting
is widely used for making bedspreads, quilts, comforters etc. Single-needle, hand-guided quilting
machines are used for making outline quilting, where the stitching lines follow the outlines of the
print design, vermicelli, which uses free motion all-over stitching patterns, and tarpon to or
Italian quilting, a form of ‘couching’ where a cord inserted and stitched between the fabric layers
creates a raised pattern. In mass-scale automated production, multiple-needle machine quilting is
used to make simple geometric patterns. In stitch-less quilting, multiple layers of fabric are fused
together thermally or by an adhesive, creating the appearance of being stitched.

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Figure 1.2: Quilting
3. Applique:
In applique, small pieces of fabric or other material are couched or stitched onto a base fabric. In
reverse appliqué, the base fabric is on top of the stitched fabric and the top fabric is cut out to
reveal the appliqued fabric underneath.
Figure 1.3: Applique
4. Patchwork:
Patchwork, used mostly for making bed quilts and cushions, is the technique of creating a fabric
layer by joining small pieces of fabric (traditionally scraps of old clothes or textiles) in geometric
or abstract patterns. Being a hand-worked technique, it is mostly produced on a small scale.
Figure 1.4: Patchwork

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5. Trimming:
Two types of trimmings are most popularly applied on fabric or garments for decoration. Such
as:
Fringe trim: Fringe is an ornamental textile trim, applied to an edge of an item, such as drapery,
dress ends, a flag, epaulettes, or decorative tassel, etc.
Sewing trim: sewing Trim or trimming in clothing and home decorating is applied to ornament
or Embellishing fabrics such as gimp, ribbon, ruffles, button, bias tape, etc.
Figure 1.5: Trimmings
6. Lacework:
Lace is an openwork fabric, patterned with open holes in the work, made by machine or by hand.
Lace is another Embellishing items on fabric. It is the very common and ancient craft to
Embellishing fabrics.
Figure 1.6: Lacework

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7. Piping:
Piping is a type of trim or embellishment, which is used to Embellishing fabrics for making
different style line. Usually the fabric strip is cut on the bias, and often it is folded over a cord. It
may be made from either self-fabric (the same fabric as the object to be ornamented) or
contrasting fabric, or of leather.
Figure 1.7: Piping on dress

8. Beads:
Beads are other types of embellishment. Beadwork is made by needle and thread to stitch beads
to Embellishing fabrics, suede, or leather.
Figure 1.8: Beads on dress
9. Batik:
Batik is a cloth that is traditionally made using a manual wax-resist dyeing technique. For
Embellishing fabrics batik is the very popular embellishment technique.

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Figure 1.9: Batik on pillow
10. Smocking work:
Smocking is an embroidery technique, used to gather fabric so that it can stretch. Before elastic,
smocking was commonly used in cuffs, bodices, and necklines in garments, where buttons were
undesirable.
Figure 1.10: Canadian smocking design
Fabric Manipulation:
There are different types of fabric manipulation techniques. They include: Embellishment
through addition, Beads and beading, embellishment through subtraction and construction
techniques.
Embroidery and Fabric Manipulation:
Gathering Tucking
Shirring Smocking
Pleating Quilting

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1.3 Identifying type of embroidery required.
Embroidery is an art form where the fabric or alternative materials are decorated using needle
and thread (or yarn). There are multiple different types of hand embroidery stitches that are used
when embroidering art onto a chosen fabric. Here is a list of 8 different types of embroidery
stitches you need to know.
1. Backstich
Figure 1.11: Backstich

A backstitch is one of the easiest stitches to master. Mostly used for outlining as it creates a
beautiful solid line. This stitch is created when the needle is pulled up and through the fabric
creating a stitch forward, then from underneath you space the needle out the desired length, pull
up through, and bring the needle back through the end of the previous stitch.
2. Split Stich
Fgure 1.12: Split stich

A split stitch is similar to a backstitch as it is a solid line, however, it has an almost braided
texture. Another option that is popular for texts and outlines, whilst also working well for filling
in designs. This stitch is created when the needle is pulled through the fabric and one straight
stitch is created. With the needle and thread on the underside, the thread is brought up through
the center of the stitch just created. It is then stitched forward the same length as the initial stitch.
3. Stem Stich
Figure 1.13: Stem stich

This stitch is popular when creating flower stems and vines. It is a beautiful option when creating
designs that have curves. Like the split stitch start by creating a straight stitch forward. Then
bring the needle up underneath the fabric, but instead of threading it through the centre of the
first stitch, go to the side of the stitch.
4. Satin Stich
Figure 1.14: Satin stich

When filling in the design and wanting to create a smooth appearance out of all the different
types of embroidery stitches this is the perfect stitch. With the needle create one stitch that
extends from one end of the chosen shape to the other. Then the needle is brought up again just
next to the opposite side of the initial stitch. The stitches are kept close to one another in order to
fill the pattern seamlessly.
5. Running Stich
Figure 1.15: Running stich

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A running stitch is a simple stitch that is perfect for making dashed outlines as well as small
details. The length and spacing of these stitches can be adjusted as required. The needle is
brought through the fabric and a single straight stitch is created. Then a gap is made and the
needle is brought back through the fabric again to create a separate stitch. This stitch is along the
same line but they are not attached.
6. French Knots
Figure 1.16: French stich

Out of all the different types of embroidery stitches, the French knots is one of the more intricate
of stitches. This creates a pretty accent design throughout. With the thread held taught at one end
and bring the needle down next to the space where it came through the fabric. You must ensure
that the thread is taut as the needle is pulled through. The size can be varied by wrapping the
floss around the needle anywhere between one to three times.
7. Chain Stich
Figure 1.17: Chain stich

One of the most complicated stitches it is great for outlining as well as framing around a specific
pattern or design. Firstly the needle is pulled through the fabric then brought down beside where
it was first brought up. It is important that the thread is not pulled all the way through so that a
loop can be formed. Then the needle needs to be brought through that loop and pulled. In order
to continue the stitch, the needle should be placed in the hole just stitched or very close to it, then
simply pull through to create an additional loop. This process is repeated to continue the chain.

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8. Feather Stitch
Figure 1.18:Feather stich

Ideal for when you want to cover a larger surface area. Simply bring the needle through the
fabric and create a straight stitch. Making sure not to pull the thread all the way though allow a
loop to form. Bring the needle up through this loop. Then make sure to space the next stitch over
in the opposite direction from the previous stitch. Create another loop by not bringing the thread
all the way through, pull the needle through and repeat on the opposite side.
9. Bonus Stitch – Tatami Stitch
Figure 1.19: Bonus Stich

A stitch we are particularly fond of is the beautiful tatami stitch. A tatami stitch is similar to a
satin stitch and is preferable as the chances of the embroidery getting snagged are decreased. It
simply consists of rows of run stitches and is perfect for filling large shapes. So when an object
is larger than 1 cm, the tatami stitch is the right option to choose.
1.4.1 Main points of embroidery file review in machine
Letter Size Letters can be no smaller than .25″ or they will not embroider well.
Detail Super fine detail will likely be compromised. Most embroidered logos are small by
nature, thread is a fixed width and the fabric adds an element of compromise.
Gradients Complicated gradients can sew very well. Keep in mind, however, that stitches do not
blend, so the gradient will be less smooth in appearance than what you see on your computer
screen.

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Preferred format
Vector files (ai, eps, pdf) with fonts converted to outlines. This format produces the highest
quality embroidery.
Acceptable format
Raster files (jpg, tif, gif, png, eps) at a minimum of 150dpi at the final image size.
These images, designs, or logos are composed of pixels rather than paths. When zoomed in it is
more difficult to see detail and where shapes begin and end. For this reason a digitizer must do
some creative estimating. Your end embroidery may not be as exact as you would like it to be.
1.5. Identifying methods of embroidery by hand
Hand embroidery is any type of needlework that is done without a machine. Hand embroidered
pieces are usually made on a piece of material with a pattern outlined on it. Some people may
embroider freestyle, using material that doesn't have a printed pattern.
Hand embroidery involves stitching embroidery designs by hand onto the fabric. This process is
time-consuming and particular, but produces amazing results.
Hand embroidery is basically embellishing the cloth with colorful threads and beautiful beads. It
is an art that is made with help of needles and thread creating beautiful patterns of design on the
fabric. The embroidery designs are delicate and influenced by Mughal designs.
Figure 1.20: Embroidery Design
As with most crafts, getting started on hand embroidery can seem daunting when you consider
the huge array of available hoops, frames, needles, thread cutters … whew, you get the picture.
But don’t be fooled! The list of actual hand embroidery tools is refreshingly short. We
recommend these tools to get started.

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1.5.1. Tools of hand embroidery
1. Needles
Figure 1.21: Needle

Any needle can draw a piece of thread through fabric, but certain types do certain jobs better.
Using the right needle for the job will not only make embroidery less frustrating for newbies, but
it’s also way more likely to deliver better results. These are the three we recommend starting out
with to cover your bases many come in assortment packages, meaning you can get them in a
range of sizes so you can play around with each to see which you like best.
Crewel Needle
The crewel needle is a sharp-tipped needle with a medium-long eye slightly larger than the shaft
of the needle. It’s the basic one used for hand embroidery. Crewel needles come in sizes 1
through 12, with 1 being the largest and 12 being the smallest.
Tapestry Needle
The tapestry needle has a shorter shaft than a crewel needle, but it has a much longer eye and a
blunt tip. It’s commonly used in counted cross stitch and needlepoint, because the blunt tip does
not pierce the ground fabric, instead allowing the needle to pass easily into the open holes within
the weave. That blunt tip also makes it ideal for surface embroidery that involves whipping or
lacing, as it helps keep the needle from snagging other stitches.
Tapestry needles are available in sizes 13 through 28, with 13 being the largest and 28 being
exceptionally fine. Tapestry needles are also available in standard and petite lengths — as you
can imagine, petites are much shorter, allowing the stitcher to get as much use out of
their embroidery thread as possible.
Milliner Needle
The milliner needle aka the straw needle has a shorter, almost-round eye, a very long shaft and a
sharp tip. The eye and the shaft are the same size, making it perfect for working any wrapped
stitches like bullion knots, French knots or cast-on stitches.

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2. Hoops and Frames
Figure 1.22: hoop and frames

An embroidery hoop keeps fabric taut, so your stitching doesn’t pucker the fabric and your
embroidery doesn’t come out warped. It’s not essential for every type of stitching, but in general
it’s best for beginners who are still getting the hang of things.
Plastic or inexpensive wooden hoops work well when you’re learning, but as you become more
experienced, you may want to graduate to a higher-quality wooden hoop. Unlike the cheaper
varieties, better-quality ones will have sturdy brass hardware that can be tightened with a screw
driver, the two rings will fit together perfectly, and the wood will feel very strong in-hand.
Side note: You may also see a variety of embroidery frames at the craft store, including stretcher
bar, slate and scroll frames. All of these also hold fabric taut, but generally a hoop is less
expensive and more portable, making it ideal for newbies.
3. Embroidery Scissors
Figure 1.23: Embrodery scissor

Embroidery scissors are different from regular craft scissors. They have smaller and usually
thinner blades that are extremely sharp, and they normally come to a very pointy point. Most are
around 3.5 to 4” in length, with blades that range from 1 to 2.5” long. The main reason to use
them: they can get really close to the ground fabric to cleanly cut those threads.

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4. Light and Magnification
It’s a fact: good lighting is essential for transferring embroidery designs. You’ll find lots of
options at craft and sewing stores, but so long as you have a sunny window you can make it work
for free.
A magnifier, on the other hand, can help you enjoy needlework without straining your eyes.
Available at local needle work stores, it’s especially great for detail work, miniature embroidery
and needle painting, so you can nail every single stitch with ease.
5. Smart Storage
Figgure 1.24: Smart storage

Keeping your supplies organized is key for when you want to be able to pick up projects at a
moment’s notice. Light, transportable containers are a smart option, as are zippered mesh bags
for hoops, instructions and threads. Be sure to slide pointy scissors into a sheath to protect their
sharpness and your other supplies and store needles in a small needle book with felt pages that
you can tuck into a project bag.
1.6. Identifying criteria for selection of threads
Like the selection of fabric, needle and style of design, it is important to learn about the selection
of thread used for embroidering a particular design. The factors to keep in mind while selecting a
thread are color, texture, length, thickness and suitability to the final effect of the embroidery
pattern. Threads are one of the basic materials needed for embroidery. The most commonly used
threads are stranded cotton threads. These threads have mostly six separate strands which can be
used together, or separated and used singly or in groups. These threads, often referred to as
‘stranded silk’ though they are actually mercerized cotton, are lustrous and suitable for most
types of embroidery.
The benefit of stranded cotton thread is that the strands can be separated and recombined in any
number to achieve differing thickness and effects.

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Pearl cotton
This type of thread is very commonly used for hand embroidery. It is a highly mercerised and
twisted thread. It is a smooth, single ply embroidery thread with a shiny and lustrous look. Pearl
cotton threads are available in skein or a ball with differing thickness, colour and shade. They are
available in different weights. The higher the number, the finer would be the thread.
Figure 1.25: Pearl cotton

Metallic threads
This category of threads is an innovation in embroidery work. The use of metallic threads adds
shine and glamour to the embroidery work. These are available in the market in colours like
gold, silver, platinum, copper and antique or aged versions. Metallic threads are quite durable
and require less care.
Figure 1.26: Metallic thread

Satin and rayon threads
It is a term used for synthetic threads which give a brighter and shimmery look in the
embroidery. These threads have a satin-like shine and are usually packaged as floss that can be
separated in different ply.

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Figure 1.27: Satin and rayon threads
Over dyed threads
These are shaded threads. These threads have more than one colour in a single strand. They can
be hand dyed or mass produced in cotton or silk embroidery floss.
These threads are available in different weights. Using these over dyed threads gives the
embroidery pattern a totally different look because of changes of colour at short intervals.
Figure 1.28: Over dyed thread

Wool threads
These are used in some special embroidery forms where a thick woollen look is required in the
embroidery. These threads are available in a variety of weights and colours. These threads are
most commonly used in counted thread work.
Figure 1.29. Wool threads

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(vi) Novelty threads
These include a wide range of styles, textures and material. Novelty threads can be fuzzy,
metallic textured, leather, plastic, etc. They are used to give the embroidery pattern a special
look.
Figure 1.30. Novelty threads
(vii) Pure silk sewing thread

Embroidering on fine fabrics such as silk, a silk sewing thread can be used for fine embroidery
such as faggoting, pin stitch and hem stitch, etc. Many other types of threads with special
characteristics are available in the market with different brand names. These threads can be
selected according to the suitability of the fabric, design, liking of the user, etc.
Figure 1.30: Pure silk sewing threads

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Self-Check -1 Written Test
Directions: Answer all the questions listed below.
I. Explain the question
1. The stranded embroidery thread has mostly ________strands.
2. List and explain at list five embroidery thread.
3. What is wool threads used in embroidery?
II. Choose the best answers
1. Which one is preferred format Vector files for embroidery?
A. ai B. eps C. A&B D. all
2. __________ Threads adds shine and glamour to the embroidery work.
A. Metallic B. Wool threads C. Novelty threads
III. Say true or false
1. Over dyed threads have more than one colour in a single strand.
2. The crewel needle is a sharp-tipped needle with a medium-long eye slightly larger than the
shaft of the needle
3. Pearl cotton thread is very commonly used for hand embroidery.

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Operation sheet-1 Identifying type of embellishment required for garment.
Procedure
1. Search and collect pictures of different types of tool and raw material used for hand
embroidery.
2. Draw the figure of the tools if a picture is not available.
3. Label the tools and raw materials.
4. Make a chart depicting the tools and material that you think may be required for the hand
embroidery process.
5. Display the chart in the classroom or the laboratory.
Material Required
1. A3 size sheet or practical file
2. Coloured pens and pencils
3. Ruler
4. Pencil
5. Eraser
6. Samples of different types of trimming Procedure
1. Search and collect different types of trimming.
2. Put the samples of trimming in transparent pouches.
3. Attach the pouches on the sheet or in the practical file.
4. Label the names of the trimming.
5. Decorate the sheet or practical file using coloured pens or pencils.

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Task 1- Embellishment through Addition:
Applique/ Applied works
Couching
Stitching/ Hand stitching
Beads and Beading
Embellishment through Subtraction:
Decoupe/ Reverse technique
Cutwork
Drawn thread
Pulled work
Beads and Beading:
Tambour work
Hand beading
French beading
Construction Techniques:
Patchwork
Applied patchwork
Long cabin patchwork
Crazy patchwork

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Lap test -1 Practical Demonstration
Make a chart of the tools and raw materials used for the hand embroidery process.
Material Required
1. Chart paper
2. Colored pens and pencils
3. Ruler
4. Pencil
5. Eraser
6. Pictures of different tools and raw materials used for hand embroidery

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Unit Two: Preparing work pieces and workstation
This unit to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content coverage
and topics:
 Laying out work pieces.
 Setting up equipment and materials
 Performing routine minor maintenance.
 Reporting and recording any problems
This guide will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.
 Work pieces are laid out.
 Work area is set up according to OHS practices.
 Equipment and materials are set up and adjusted to specifications for work.
 Routine minor maintenance is performed according to manufacturer specifications.
 Any problems are reported and recorded.

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2.1. Laying out work pieces.
Once you have put together a complete embroidery kit, decided on the fabric, design and colors’
for the embroidery threads, you are ready to begin. Before starting the embroidery, remember to
wash and wipe your hands. This would help in keeping your embroidery clean and fresh. If your
hands have a tendency to perspire, you may wash your hands repeatedly. While working on the
embroidery you may notice that the thread twists and knots. In this case you can turn the needle
in the opposite direction till the thread is smooth. In case the thread does not run smoothly, it will
be better to use a fresh length of thread. Always start embroidery with a back stitch. Never start
your work with a knot.
A continuous workflow in an embroidery shop, independent of its size, depends on many details.
The workflow can get stuck due to inconspicuous factors, such as habits, irregular working
processes and poor job planning.
The complete textiles and all the accessories are then entered in the queue of the embroidery
orders.
Figure 2.1: Embroidery layout

Frames hang to hand on the wall near the framing device (left) – in front: an adhesive spray,
fixed to the wall with a clamp; the cap-drive is attached below the ceiling directly over the
machine (right)
The next station is the job preparation. Here, the textiles are prepared for embroidery. Elements
such as ruler, tools for marking, embroidery backings, framing devices and frames are stored
here, ready to be used.

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2.2. Setting up equipment and materials
An embroidery hoop seems like a pretty basic piece of equipment, doesn’t it? Something that
doesn’t necessarily require explanation? But setting up an embroidery hoop correctly is often the
key to better end results in your embroidery, so I think it’s worth covering!
Embroidery Hoops-Embroidery hoops is a must-have because they help to keep the fabric tight
while you stitch on it.
Needles.
Embroidery stabilizers and fabric markers.
Embroidery thread.
Embroidery fabric.
Embroidery Floss.
Stranded Cotton.
Embroidery or Crewel Needles.
Scissors.
Fabric Marking Pens
2.2.1 Embroidery Tools
Crewel or tapestry needles: A pointed tip works for sewing any fabric. A blunt
tip needle is good for using on cross stitch fabric. I like size 20 or larger.
Embroidery scissors: A small scissors makes for easier and more detailed
snipping and cutting.
Figure 2.2: Embroidery tool

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Floss bobbins
These are inexpensive cardboard or plastic holders for your floss or thread. If you work from the
hanks you buy, you will find that your thread will tangle easily. The ends will be floating all over
your storage container and become a tangled mess. By winding your thread on a bobbin right
away, you can keep your threads at the ready and organized.
Thimbles
this is an optional tool to protect your fingers from becoming calloused or poked. A small metal
piece keeps the needle from passing through the skin.
A small plier
when stitching with thick fabrics or when many stitches pass through the same area over and
over, the needle just doesn't seem to want to glide through the fabric. Because the needle is
small, it’s hard to get a good grip at times. Keep small needle nose pliers handy to grip the
needle and pull it through.
Embroidery Hoop
Figure 2.3. Plastic Hoop/Wooden Hoop

2.2.2. Embroidery Materials
The fabrics and yarns used in traditional embroidery vary from place to place. Wool, linen, and
silk have been in use for thousands of years for both fabric and yarn. Today, embroidery thread
is manufactured in cotton, rayon, and novelty yarns as well as in traditional wool, linen, and silk.
Ribbon embroidery uses narrow ribbon in silk or silk/organza blend ribbon, most commonly to
create floral motifs.
Embroidery Thread
Parle Cotton does not fray easily, creates a bold line, and comes in a wide variety of colors. Use
size 5 for most work but use size 3 for detailed work or for light black outlines.
Embroidery Floss can be split into 6 strands. It has a nice sheen and comes in an infinite number
of colors from matte to metallic

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Figure 2.4. Embroidery Thread
Fabric
most woven fabrics with some body can be embroidered. Many are better than others. It is good
to work on linen. Its open, flexible weave makes stitching a breeze. The needle slides in and out
like butter. If you make a mistake, the weave will correct itself and with a little manipulation, the
hole created by the wrong stitch disappears.
Working on recycled, felted woven wool stitches like a charm, and the lanolin in the wool
actually polishes your needle. Mistakes are hard to correct on some fabrics and you have to be
Figure 2.5. Embroidery fabric

2.3. Performing routine minor maintenance.
 At the very least, with average use, sewing and embroidery machines should be
serviced every two or three years. Your warranty spells out how often you must have
your machine serviced by a qualified technician.
 Clean your machine.
 Cover your thread.
 Wipe down your machine after use.
 Cover your embroidery machine.
 Turn off your machine when you are not using it.
 Use the correct weight of embroidery thread.
 Change your needles regularly.

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 Oil your machine or don't oil your machine.
2.4. Reporting and recording any problems

Knots are really not necessary in any embroidery project because you can secure the ends of the
threads in other ways. What's more, knots can make the back side of a project untidy and bumpy
and you can often feel them on the front side of the piece. Knots usually have a bit of a tail,
which can show through on the front side of an embroidered project.
Worse yet, knots can actually be harmful to a project, as they can unravel with use or laundering.
As a result, precious stitches are lost over time.
Problem Possible Cause
1. Tension too tight

Flat or hidden stitches
2. Nap or pile fabric tends to hide thread
1. Material loose in hoop
2. Thin material
Needle holes in garment
3. Too many stitches for point of cut
4. Burred needle

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I. Explain the following question
1. What is the main function of laying out work pieces?
2. List and explain materials and equipment used for hand embroidery.
II. Choose the best answer
1. Which one is the embroidery tools and equipment
A. Thimbles
B. small plier
C. Embroidery Hoop
D. All
2. Which one is true about service of embroidery machines?.
A. Use the correct weight of embroidery thread.
B. Change your needles regularly.
C. Oil your machine or don't oil your machine.
D. All

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Operation Sheet 2.1 Carbon transfer paper
Purpose:
The most common transfer method is with your run-of-the-mill "carbon transfer paper."
Instructions
Keep in mind, when transferring your design whether it’s on light or dark fabric. Carbon paper
comes in different colors, and one of them is white. Using white carbon paper on black fabric
with ensure your design comes through nice and clear
Tools and Materials:
Fabric for embroidery works Masking tape
Carbon paper Pencil or stylus
Design printed on regular paper
Procedure:
Step1. Take that carbon paper and place it carbon side down onto your fabric, then place your
printed design on top of it. Keep in mind when you’re placing your image that you need enough
room around it to be able to hoop the fabric, so don’t put it too close to an edge.
Step2. Use a pencil, stylus, or anything firm and vaguely pointy to trace over your design. Don’t
use anything too sharp, or you might punch right through your fabric, and take extra care not to
let your design move while you’re tracing it..

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Step3. Taking care not to shift your design, pull it back now and then to make sure your design
is transferring properly. If you can’t see your design well enough, trace over it again.
Safety Precaution: Do not use too sharp pencil for it may damage the fabric
Quality Criteria:
Color of carbon paper used is appropriate for the fabric
Fabric without damage.
Transferred design is clear and neat

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Operation Sheet 2.2 backstitch
Purpose:
The backstitch is great for outlining when you have a lot to do, but since the stitches tend to be
longer than others, it’s not quite as good around tight corners.
Instructions
The embroidery thread inserted on the needle should only be elbow-length to maximum. This is
to avoid entangling.
 Fabric with outline of the design
 Crewel needle
 Embroidery scissors
 Embroidery thread
 Hoop
Procedure:
Make a knot at the end of the thread.
From the back of your fabric pull your needle up at (1). 2
Insert it back at (2) according to the desired length of stitch.
5
Bring it back up at (3) about a stitch length away from the first entry
point. 3
Push your needle down again at (4). 4

Bring it up at (5), and so on. 1
Safety Precaution: Use thimble to prevent pricking your fingers.
Quality Criteria:
Backstitches are of the same length following the outline.
Stitches are relaxed not too tight.
No puckering on the fabric

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LAP Test Practical Demonstration
Name: _____________________________ Date: ________________

Time started: ________________________ Time finished: ________________
Instructions: Given necessary templates, tools and materials you are required to perform the
following tasks within -1-- hour.
Hand Stitching/Practical Demonstration/
Project title:-Running Stitch & back stitch
Do properly hand work steam stitch & back stitch

Task 1. Ironing the fabric
Task 2.Assume the steam stitch& back stitch space
Task 3.Cut properly
Task 4.Pass the needle through the fabric several times so steam stitch & back stitch appeared.
Task 5.Pass the needle through the fabric several times to have equal space stitch .
Task 6. Tie & remaining the end
Task 7. Ironing
Quality control:
 -Neatness
 -Sharpness
 -Sleep age
 -Sharp Ironing
Safety Precaution
 -Keep your hands, fingers & feet always Clean& dry
 -Avoid excessive oil on your hair
 -Protect your hand from seizer, needle

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Unit Three: Placing embroidery on garment
This learning guide is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the
following content coverage and topics:
 Following OHS practices
 Completing hand embroidery
 Assessing work
 OHS practices are followed.
 Hand embroidery is completed in accordance with job order and workplace procedures.
 Work is assessed for compliance with quality standards and production specifications.

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3.1. Following OHS practices
Teachers must take particular care to ensure that health and safety requirements are met and
safety procedures followed when students are involved in practical activities. Students must be
made aware of any health or safety hazards that might be connected with the activities in which
they are engaged and must be coached in the proper use of safety equipment, such as fire
extinguishers
Personal safety
Exposure control means here the full range of precautionary measures to be taken during the use
of dangerous, classified substances and preparations needed in order to minimize worker
exposure.
Engineering measures should always precede personal protection. Information about system
design, such as the need to enclose the process, which completes that already given under item
should be included here.
Where personal protection is needed, specify the type of equipment that provides adequate and
suitable protection:
For respiratory protection specify adequate masks and the filter type
For eye protection specify the type of protective equipment, such as safety glasses, safety
goggles and face shield
For hand protection specify the type and material of gloves to be worn when handling the
substance or preparation.
For skin protection specify the type and quality of equipment required, such as an apron, boots or
full protective suit.
First aid measures
Describe the first aid measures, i.e. the actions to be taken immediately in case of overexposure
to the chemical. If immediate medical attention is required, it should be specified here.
Subdivide the information according to the different routes of exposure under different
subheadings:
 exposure by inhalation
 exposure by skin and eye contact
 ingestion

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For some substances or preparations, special means should be available at the workplace to
provide specific and immediate treatment. This should be mentioned under this heading. For
example, workplaces handling hydrogen sulfide should have protective equipment in case of an
emergency. Equipment for first aid treatment should be available and there should be training in
its use.
3.1.1. Equipment and material safety
Consider precautions to ensure safe handling and to advise on technical measures, such as local
and general ventilation, measures to prevent aerosol and dust formation, procedures or
equipment which are prohibited or recommended, and, if possible, give a brief description of
such procedures and/or equipment as electrical grounding of containers for flammable liquids.
Consider also the conditions for safe storage, such as incompatible materials, storage temperature
and humidity limit/range, light, inert gas and others. Pay attention to special electrical equipment
and prevention of static electricity, and specific design for storage rooms or vessels.
Give advice if needed on quantity limits for storage (compare with the list of chemicals with the
potential to cause major hazards and the threshold quantities suggested there). In particular,
indicate any special requirements such as the type of material to be used for the
packing/container.
3.1.2. Safety procedures
Workplace safety is a category of management responsibility in places of employment.
To ensure the safety and health of workers, managers establish a focus on safety that can include
elements such as:
 management leadership and commitment
 employee engagement
 accountability
 ensuring all task are carried out safely and efficiently
 safety programs, policies, and plans
 safety processes, procedures, and practices
 safety goals and objectives
 safety inspections for workplace hazards

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 safety program audits
 safety tracking & metrics
 hazard identification and control
 safety committees to promote employee involvement
 safety education and training
 safety communications to maintain a high level of awareness on safety
3.2. Completing hand embroidery

To end a thread without making a knot, use this method:
Take your threaded needle to the back of your fabric with your last stitch. Run your needle under
the last couple of stitches. For extra security, you might weave through the last few stitches,
going under the first, over the second, under the third.
General, a matter that should be taken seriously.
This is where we secure our thread in the beginning and end of our projects, so for the work to
withstand the test of time, to not get disarranged and for stitches to not come loose, we need to
ensure that the stitches are secured properly.
Hand embroidery is hard work; we put a lot of effort and emotions into our project, that’s why
it's better to pay special attention to the backside.
At the same time, we need to take into account if our backside is proper enough for any finishing
work you might be planning to do: mounting, framing your embroidery or using it as an
embellishment for garments/accessories.
Will the dark threads show through the fine fabric? Even the most beautiful embroidery can
actually be spoiled by messy backside.
Let's take a look at two most common situations when you need to finish your thread. The first
one would be finishing thread on a line or few stitches situated quote closely. The second
situation would be when there is a whole area filled with long & short stitch or satin stitch.
3.3. Assessing work
Where threads are left on the embroidery pattern between images or lettering. Thread trims are
digitized when changing colors and when moving from one location to other using “jump”
stitches.
Generally, can be corrected by:

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1) Digitizing properly (Using appropriate number of trims, using appropriate tie off stitches, or
replacing trimming knives when necessary); and
2) Hand trimming missed trims using trimming snips.
Where the corners of lettering or shapes are not sharp and crisp but are bunched up or distorted.
Usually caused by too much thread in the corners due to poor digitizing.
This includes:
1) Not using appropriate stitch selection,
2) Not using “Short” stitches in corner, and
3) Poor stitch balance – thread too loose.
Generally, can be corrected by digitizing properly:
1) Using appropriate stitch selection, and
2) Using “short” stitch cornering, and
3) Correcting stitch balance.
Where the fabric is damaged around the corners of the embroidery. Caused by:
1) Not using the correct type and size of needle;
2) Putting too many stitches in the same location; and
3) Not tearing tear away backing properly, allowing the fabric to be damaged as the stitches are
pulled out.
Generally, can be corrected by:
1) Digitizing properly;
2) Reducing the stitch count in the corners;
3) Using the correct type and size of needle; and
3) Using a ball point needle as small as possible.

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Self-Check -3.1 Written Test

1. Which is personal safety?
a) Keep your nails, always short &well-trimmed
b) Keep the materials in well manner
c) Use the materials as enough as required
2. Which is materials safety?
a) Keep your nails, always short &well-trimmed
b) Keep the materials in well manner
c) Use the machine as enough as required
Discus above questions
3. What happen without making a knot, when to complete embroidery?
4. How to asses our work?

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Operation sheet 3.2 How to make French knot
Purpose:
This stitch is called the French knot, and it takes a little bit of practice to get
the hang of. French knots are great for little details like eyes, or do a whole
bunch in an area for an amazing textured fill.
Instructions
The embroidery thread inserted on the needle should only be elbow-length
to maximum. This is to avoid entangling. To start, be sure you have a knot
at the back.
Fabric with outline of the design Embroidery threads Hoop Crewel needle
Embroidery scissors
Procedure:
Step1. With a knot in the back, and pull your needle through. Once you’ve
pulled your thread through, grab a few inches above where it comes out of
the fabric, and pull it taut so you can control it better
Step2. Wind the thread around your needle twice for a nice large knot. Keep
tugging gently at the thread to keep it wound around your needle, and re-
insert the tip of the needle right next to where it came out. Do NOT place it
exactly where it came out, or you might pull your stitch out completely
when you pull the thread through. Keep it as close as possible to your
marked dot, though, so you get a nice neat stitch.
Step3. Once the tip of your needle is in the fabric, tug on the thread that’s
wound around the needle. The knots will slip down the needle to form a
small little knot at the bottom. Don’t relax the thread yet; keep tugging at it
gently so the knots don’t loosen.
step4. Now pull your needle all the way through your fabric, but keep the
thread holding the knots firmly but gently held as long as possible. You’ll have to let go
eventually to let the last of your thread go through your fabric.

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Note:
The more you can control the tension on the thread, the less likely it will be that your knots will
loosen as you’re finishing the stitch.
Step5. Once you’ve pulled your thread all the way though, you’re done!!
Your little neat French knot is finished
Safety Precaution: Use thimble to prevent pricking your fingers.
Quality Criteria:
French knot is done very close to the dot of the fabric.
French knot is neatly done and does not loosen.

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LAP Test Practical Demonstration
Name: _____________________________ Date: ________________

Time started: ________________________ Time finished: ________________
Instructions: Given necessary templates, tools and materials you are required to perform the
following tasks within --- hour.
PROJECT TITLE: - Hand work French knot Stitching& Chain Stitching
Do properly hand work French knot Stitching& Chain Stitching

Task 1. Ironing the fabric
Task 2. Drawing the design of French knot Stitching& Chain Stitching
Task 3.Cut properly
Task 4. Draw up the needle so a chain and steam is formed at the surface of the fabric.
Task 5. Repeat keeping stitches even & each chain and steam exactly on the design
Task 6. Tie & remaining the end
Task 7. Ironing
Quality control:
 -Neatness
 -Sharpness
 -Sleep age
 -Sharp Ironing
Safety Precaution
 -Keep your hands, fingers & feet always Clean& dry
 -Avoid excessive oil on your hair
 -Protect your hand from seizer, needle

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Unit Four: Selecting appropriate embellishment components
Identifying criteria for selection of threads.
Attaching types of decorations to be identifying
Criteria for selection of threads are identified.
Types of decorations to be attached are identified.

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4.1. Identifying criteria for selection of threads.
The higher the thread-weight number, the finer and thinner the thread. Alternately, a low thread-
weight number means a thicker, heavier thread. To compare, typical sewing thread measures in
at 50 wt. Standard embroidery threads are somewhat finer, most often 40 wt., although 30 wt. is
not uncommon.
Embroidery floss or stranded cotton is a loosely twisted, 6-strand thread, usually of cotton but
also made from metallic, silk, linen, and rayon. Cotton floss is most common, comes in a
gazillion colors (including variegated) and is available in any fine thread shop or craft store.
Matte embroidery cotton or French cottons à border is a matte-finish (not glossy) twisted 5-ply
thread. Parle cotton, pearl cotton, or French cotton parley is an S-twisted, 2-ply thread with high
sheen, sold in five sizes or weights, 3, 5, 8, 12 and 16. 3 are the heaviest and 16 is the finest.
Crewel yarn is a fine 2-ply yarn of wool or, less often, a wool-like acrylic.
Persian yarn is a loosely twisted 3-strand yarn of wool or acrylic, often used for needlepoint.
Tapestry yarn or tapestry wool is a tightly twisted 4-ply yarn.
4.2. Attaching types of decorations to be identifying
No one can deny that most people love clothing with tasteful embellishments. They
are eye-catching and of course, elegant. In today’s fashion world, the tasteful
embellishing of clothing is very popular. And often a tasteful embellishment makes
the difference and causes us to have a second look at a garment in a shop, so they
can definitely add a lot of value.
Figure 4.1: Sewing embroidery
The kind of embellishment that one likes on their clothes also often tells us the
personality of the wearer. Embellishments add that extra glamor and are a
statement which can either make your clothing look subtle and sweet, or it can
make your outfit project a bold and adventurous statement. As we all know, there

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are many kinds of embellishments that we can choose from. To mention a few, we
can make use of buttons, beads, ribbons, yarns, lace, embroidery, sequins,
appliques, and much more.
Figure 4.2: Applique
Although embellishments look pretty and increase the visual attractiveness of our
outfits, we have to consider several factors which would affect what and how we
would want to wear these pretty add-ons to our clothing. To further give you a
guide, we have identified these areas that you r eally need to consider when placing
embellishments.
Why Are Embellishments Important?
Embellishments are pretty features of a garment. Adding an aesthetic feature to
your clothing also depends on its fabric type. Embellishments don't mean merely a
kind of decoration. There are several kinds of them which are actually both
functional and decorative. Buttons, for example, can be used both as a closure to a
clothing and to decorate it. Choose a button that is suitable for your garment style.
There are many styles, colors, and designs of buttons that look lovely when used
on clothing.
Figure 4.3: Example of embellishments buttons

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Embellishments are practical, easy to make, and a less expensive way to express
yourself through the fashion that you wear. Tasteful clothing embellishments
increase your clothing’s aesthetic value and add to your self -confidence. Just
remember to maintain a balanced look and do n't overdo it.
Figure 4.4: Embellishments of garment

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I. Directions: Answer all the questions listed below.
1. What is a garment embellishment?
2. Why Are Embellishments Important?
3. Discus and write criteria of thread selection.
II. Choose the best answers.
1. ___________are pretty features of a garment.
A. Embellishment
B. Embroidery
C. Printing garment
D. All
2. ____________add that extra glamor and are a statement which can either
make your clothing look subtle and sweet, or it can make your outfit
project a bold and adventurous statement.
A. Pressing
B. Ironing garment
C. Embellishment
D. None
III. Say true or false
1. Embellishments don't mean merely a kind of decoration .

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Operation sheet-4
Selecting appropriate embellishment components
Task 1-step by step selecting components

Step1- Choose Your Garment:
First, decide if you want to add embellishment to a garment that you already own, or create the
entire look from start to finish. Using a garment you already have is a great way to upcycle, or
breathe life into something that has lost its spark.
Step 2 – Choose Your Trim
When choosing your embellishments, make sure to consider the weight of your garment and
fabric. You want to be confident in knowing that your garment will be able to support the area
you are going to embellish. The key to working quickly is choosing embellishments that cover a
large area instead of small individual pieces. Try using brooches, trim tape, and appliques that
have multiply stones and beads.
Step 3 – Try a Few Different Layout Options
Before sewing down your trims, test out a few different layout options. Arrange the larger pieces
first, then fill in the empty spaces with smaller individual stones if needed. Once you feel pleased
with the look of your layout, carefully sew on your embellishments. Search the internet or
fashion magazines for tons of inspiration. Pinterest is still a great tool to help get you going.
Step 4 – Finish and Style Your Garment
Now that you’ve completed your one-of-a-kind hand-embellished garment, it’s time to take it out
for a test run. Pair your statement piece with simple solid coordinating colors.

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Lap test -4
Practical Demonstration
Selecting tools to make components?
Check fabric to use for embellishments or embroidery?
What kind of textiles and garments are tested for Durability?
Identifying properly fabric for embellishments?

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Unit Five: Embellishing garment or piece
 Assessing work with quality standards and production.
 Checking and adjusting machine to ensure optimum performance.
 Work is assessed for compliance with quality standards and production specifications.
 Machine is checked and adjusted to ensure optimum performance.

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5.1. Assessing work with quality standards and production.
There are several markers of high-quality embroidery. Many shops manage a couple of points of
the best execution, but the highest-quality embroidery will fulfill all of the following categories:
Technical execution: The design has no outwardly visible flaws in its execution. There should
be no outlines out of registration, no underlay stitching visible, no closed counters in lettering, no
gaps between elements that should meet, and there should not be excessive color from the
ground material showing through the filled areas. Edges of elements should be mostly smooth
and avoid.
Artistic interpretation: The embroidery should be attractive and precise, properly representing
the art provided by the customer in the best way possible for the medium. The embroidery makes
the best use of the qualities of thread to create interesting surface treatments where applicable.
Proper use of materials/digitizing for the needs of the garment and use: The design should
not use excessive stabilizer, particularly to compensate for digitizing or mechanical failings. The
garment should not be rippled or puckered around the design, and the design should be flexible
and as comfortable to wear as possible, maintaining as much of the natural hand of the garment
on which it is stitched.
Proper placement: The design should be properly placed for each garment and size so as to be
in the proper position when worn. The design should not be angled or crooked.
Clean finishing/packaging: Though this is not a decoration issue, I think it is integral to the
perceived quality of the finished product. The finished garment is cleanly trimmed of any
connecting stitches long enough to need trimming, any marks left by the hoop are steamed or
pressed out of the garment, and the garment is neatly packaged in agreement with the customer’s
needs.
5.2. Adjusting machine to ensure optimum performance.
Adjusting the machine is most beneficial when done in tandem with the correct threading
techniques, thread and needle selection for the fabric, and sewing technique being performed.
Machine settings alone won't create the perfect project, but they will greatly increase the
likelihood that the garment is successful.

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Self-check-5
Written exam
I. Define the following question
There are several markers of high-quality embroidery.
1. Technical execution:
2. Artistic interpretation
3. Proper use of materials/digitizing for the needs of the garment and use:
4. Proper placement:
5. Clean finishing/packaging

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Operation sheet- 5
Practical demonstration
Procedure
Adjusting Embroidery Machine Tension
Step 1 Poor thread tension leads to puckering, loops, missed stitches and even plain messy
stitching. If you are seeing any of these symptoms, then it might be time to check your thread
tension.
Step 2 Correct thread tension should have equal tension on both upper and lower (bobbin)
thread. The easiest way to check is if you stitch a normal run of about 6” in length (Pro Tip,
Stitch on white or a light-colored fabric and use two different colour threads. For example, using
Red on top and Blue at the bottom.) If both sides of the run look the same tension wise, then you
are all set.
Step 3 Before we jump in and start adjusting screws and knobs, it is best to do a little more
investigation first. The last thing you want is to have spent hours adjusting just to find out that a
faulty or worn-out needle is the culprit. So, here is a short list of things to check first:
Step 4 Diagrams on the machine helps you guide the thread through all the hooks and holes
needed to feed it correctly, one missing step here can be disastrous, so be sure to double check.
Step 5 Check the thread itself, as with all things in life, thread has a shelf life. Though it does not
have an expiry date, thread can become brittle or fray as it goes through all the hooks and holes
when it gets old. Keep your thread away from sunlight and store them in a cool cupboard to
extend its life.
Step 6 Change your needle, often a change in needles can make a huge difference. Needles wear
out too, check for a burr on the tip and make sure you have installed it the right way.
If you are using metal bobbins and might have dropped it in the past, this too can lead to some
issues on its own. Damage can be invisible to the eye so it is always a good idea to keep a spare
one to try and see if it will solve your problem.

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Unit Six: Dispatching completed work
 Checking garments quality standards.
 Recording and reporting faults.
 Completing garments to next operation.
 Completing work documentation.
 Garments or articles are checked against quality standards.
 Any faults identified are reported and recorded.
 Completed garments or articles are directed to next operation.
 Work documentation is completed as required

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6.1. Checking garments quality standards.
A garment quality control checklist provides a clear outline of all the quality standards and
product specifications expected of sampled garments prior to bulk production. Also called an
inspection criteria sheet (ICS), the garment quality control checklist can be used by quality
control inspectors of both the supplier and manufacturer to minimize laborious rework that leads
to waste and financial loss.
This garment quality control checklist can be used by quality control inspectors of suppliers and
manufacturers to ensure that the quality standards and product specifications expected of the
finished product are met.
Assign important tasks to responsible people and easily track the status of their actions
Add comments or notes on items that need clarification
Take or attach photo evidence of supporting documents
Use a barcode scanner to easily identify items and keep track of their individual quality checks
Sign-off with electronic signatures
Share reports by exporting as PDF, Word, Excel or Web Link
5 Red flags to look out for during garments quality control
Reworks, due to garment defects and quality control issues, have been quite usual for the
garment manufacturing industry. These result to manufacturers and suppliers wasting valuable
time and money due to red flags that could have been caught early on.
When creating garments quality control checklists, here are 5 red flags quality control officers
should watch out for to ensure a streamlined garments quality control process:
Communication Gaps
To perform a pest inspection you’ll need a few tools. Items such as flashlights, flushing agents or
aerosols, magnifying glass and a pen and paper to record your findings during the inspection.
What to do: Garment suppliers and manufacturers should constantly communicate and
collaborate to ensure that everyone has the same level of understanding of product and packing
requirements. Addressing communication gaps early on will help address any issue that may
arise in a timely manner and avoid delays that hamper manufacturing timelines.

Author/Copyright
Insufficient Information
Garment quality officers should keep a keen eye on every detail of garment quality control
processes. Incomplete tech packs (a design blueprint) and incoherent statement of quality
standards is warnings that should be immediately rectified to avoid misinterpretation, frustration,
and additional production costs.
What to do: A detailed and comprehensible garment quality control checklist will play a crucial
role in how the finished garment meets the required specifications. Clarify requirements for
testing procedures, desired sample size, testing schedules, and the garment quality control
professional who is assigned to conduct the tests.
Lack of staff training
If checkers do not have a complete understanding of the level of quality expected of the
products, low-quality garments would most likely end up on the sales floor, resulting in
unsatisfied customers.
What to do: Quality inspectors play an important role in ensuring that only high-quality
garments reach customers. It is important that they receive appropriate job training in order for
them to properly carry out the garment quality control checklist.
Faulty garment machinery and equipment
Apart from being aware of potential communication and training gaps, garment quality officers
should also pay attention to garment manufacturing hardware. There may be faulty machinery
that may not have been maintained for years which can result to cutting, sewing, needling, and
pressing garment defects.
What to do: Inspection of garment machinery and equipment can be included in a garment
quality control checklist to ensure that no malfunctioning machines are in the line.
Frequent changes in production planning
There may be designers or buyers that will send instructions to suddenly revise the design even
when production is about to start. Abrupt changes, big or small, can significantly affect the
production timeline and cause major delays and low-quality garments.
What to do: To address this red flag, the garment quality control checklist can be used to
stipulate deadlines and the maximum frequency for changes in the design or production process.
Stakeholders must agree to abide by the terms to maintain a smooth production timeline.

Author/Copyright
6.2. Recording and Completing work documentation.
Documentation of the employment relationship provides a written record that may be
necessary to support such actions as employee promotion, employee pay raises, and disciplinary
action including employment termination. Documentation about employees, when necessary, is
generally both positive and negative.
A document is a piece of writing that contains information whereas a record is a document that
can be used as evidence. Both documents and records provide information, but records also serve
as evidence. This is the main difference between documents.
A QC file is quality control file in garments manufacturing also known as Trim Card or
Garments swatch card, have all items what used in garments, Fabrics-trims for specific color and
style, instruct what color and code number thread/label/zipper will be used for specific style and
color.
Quality Reporting Responsibilities in the Apparel Industry: Garments quality controlling work
throughout a garments factory, very sensitive work to maintain export garments quality.
Reporting is the first job of Garments quality department rather than working; need to maintain
lots of documents as their working reference.
Table 6.1. Fault Analysis Card
FAULT APPEARANCE CAUSE EFFECT RESPONSIBILITY ACTION PREVENTION
Split Half stitch or Failure Weak part Operative Remove Check each
part to in seam fabric stitch is on a
Stitch
place which from constructive
on Of stitch
whole under points point when
Linking stitch pressure and run fabric is run
on will break on on
point away

Author/Copyright
6.3. Completing garments to next operation.
As a garment maker, garment factories normally purchase fabric from various fabric suppliers.
Prior to sourcing the fabric, there are some pre-production processes handled by the factory
merchandiser.
Following steps are involved in the pre-production stage.
 Pattern making,
 Garment sampling,
 Fabric development,
 Fabrics and trims approvals,
 Fabric and trims sourcing,
 Pre-Production meeting
 The garment stitching process involved the following sub-processes.
 Part preparation
 Marking
 Folding and pressing
 Stitching/assembling
 Quality checking

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Direction I: Explain.
1. What is a quality fault?
2. Explain about the 5 Red flags to look out for during garments quality control
3. Write steps of the pre-production stage.
II. Matching the following questions
A B
1. Fault A. Half stitch or part Of stitch
2. Appearance B. Split Stitch on Linking
3. Cause C. Operative
4. Effect D. Failure to place whole stitch on point
5. Responsibility E. Weak part in seam which under pressure will break away
F. Remove fabric from points and run on

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Operation Sheet -6 Dispatching completed work
Step by step guide to garment production
 Pre-production
 Fabric and trim
 Sourcing
 Pattern making
 Production planning
 Cutting process
 Manufacturing and quality control
Procedure of Taking Corrective Action Process
Step 1: Communicate and assign responsibility
Supervisor
Quality Assurance
Management
Step 2: corrective action
Document all corrective actions identified during investigation.
Select the corrective action that will eliminate or greatly reduce the recurrence of the
nonconformity

Author/Copyright
LAP Test -6 Practical Demonstration
Name: __________________________ Date: ____________
Time started: ________________ Time finished: _______________
Instruction I: Given necessary templates, tools and materials you are required to perform the
following tasks within 10 hours. Your trainer will develop a scenario for you.
Task 1: Fault Analysis Card

Author/Copyright
Reference
1. Mascet Project Report, Ellis Developments Ltd, 1997
2. http://content.abt.com/documents/28966/DR5020_use.pdf
3. http://euratex.eu/fileadmin/user_upload/images/ongoing_
4. Innes R, Medical Textiles 99 Textile Horizons, October 1999 p 9
5. http://www.eatdrinkstitch.com/
6. https://www.coats.com/-/media/Coats/Information-Hub/Embroidery-
Solutions/Machine-embroidery_tcm35-
192034.jpg?rev=8dd1352407ea475ea12ac2ffe113d2a3
7. Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers by J. Cole and S. Czachor, Fairchild
Publications Inc., New York, 2009
8. New Complete Guide to Sewing: Step by Step Techniques for Making Clothes and Home
Accessories (Readers Digest (25 July 2003)

Author/Copyright
Participants of this Module (training material) preparation
No Name Qualificati Field of Study Organization/ Mobile E-mail

on (Level) Institution number
1 Yosef Abebe Getachew B- level Fashion design and Mary Help College 0923684937 [email protected]
Textile Engineering om
2 Endreyas Miftah Ahimed B-level Garment Engineering Burayu Polytechnic 0912636386 miftahendrias2005@gm
College ail.com
3 Muluembet Admassu Abebe A-level Garment Technology Hawasa Polytechnic 0985131178 muluembetadmassu06
College @gmail.com
4 Biniyam Genet Chekol B-level Garment Technology Tilili Tvet College 0922440120 [email protected]
om
5 Abdusemed Adem A-level Fashion design and Diredewa Polytechnic 0910075389 adamabdusamad7@gm
Garment Technology Collage ail.com

M10-Developing Embellishment On Garment

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M10-Developing Embellishment On Garment

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Fashion design

Module Title: - Developing and applying embellishment on garment

Prepared by: Ministry of Labor and Skill

Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

Table of Content ............................................................................................................ 1

Introduction to the Module ........................................................................................... 4

Unit one: Interpreting design brief or specifications ................................................ 5

Unit Two: Preparing work pieces and workstation ................................................. 30

Unit Three: Placing embroidery on garment ............................................................ 41

Page 1 of 72 Ministry of Labor and Developing and applying Version -1

Unit Four: Selecting appropriate embellishment components .............................. 50

Unit Five: Embellishing garment or piece ............................................................... 57

Unit Six: Dispatching completed work ................................................................... 61

Page 2 of 72 Ministry of Labor and Developing and applying Version -1

Page 3 of 72 Ministry of Labor and Developing and applying Version -1

This module covers the units:

 Interpreting design brief or specifications

 Preparing work pieces and workstation

 Placing embroidery on garment

 Selecting appropriate embellishment components

 Embellishing garment or piece

 Dispatching completed work

Learning Objective of the Module

 Interpret design brief or specifications

 Prepare work pieces and workstation

 Embroidery on garment /article or piece

 Select appropriate embellishment components

 Embellish garment or piece

 Dispatch completed work

Read the information written in each unit

Accomplish the Self-checks at the end of each unit

Perform Operation Sheets which were provided at the end of units

Do the “LAP test” giver at the end of each unit and

Read the identified reference book for Examples and exercise

Page 4 of 72 Ministry of Labor and Developing and applying Version -1

 Identifying type of embellishment required for garment.

 Determining the requirement of embellishment specifications used for garments.

 Identifying garment considerations based on specification.

 Identifying methods of embellishing by hand or machine.

 Identifying type of embroidery required.

 Determining embroidery specifications.

 Identifying methods of embroidery by hand.

 Identifying criteria for selection of threads.

 Identify type of embellishment required for garment.

 Embellishment specifications are determined used for garment.

 Garment considerations are identified.

 Methods of embellishing by hand or machine are identified.

 Identify type of embroidery required.

 Embroidery specifications are determined..

 Methods of embroidery by hand are identified.

 Criteria for selection of threads are identified.

Page 5 of 72 Ministry of Labor and Developing and applying Version -1

1. Read the specific objectives of this Learning Guide.

2. Follow the instructions described in number 3 to 15.

4. Accomplish the “Self-check 1” in page 07.

9. Accomplish the “Self-check 2” in page 15.

12. Accomplish the “Self-check 3” in page 21.

Page 6 of 72 Ministry of Labor and Developing and applying Version -1

15. Accomplish the “Self-check 4” in page 54.