Manual for garments published on [a]industri open-source on CLO-SET CONNECT.

Open-Source Production Pattern guidelines (OSPP) v1.4 2022-02-07

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Introduction

This manual contains guidelines and technical specifications required for patterns and visualisations to be published
under [a]industri Open Source Patterns (OSPP) on CLO-SET CONNECT.
The patterns of the styles shared through this platform should be ready for production. I.e. include all information
such as seam allowance, notches, grading etc needed for industrial production.
Please visit CLO-SET CONNECT> Help Centre> CLO-SET CONNECT Manual for general guidelines regarding
CLO-SET CONNECT.
Table of contents:

Introduction 2
Organising pattern pieces in 2D window 3
Annotations and names on pattern pieces 4
Fusing 5
Fusing inside of a pattern piece 5
Fusing outside of a pattern outline 6
Seam allowance 7
Seam allowance in 3D window 8
Topstitches 9
Seam allowance for darts 10
Notches and drill holes 11
Notches 11
Drill holes 12
Point of measureme (POM) 13
Grading 14
Visualisation 19
Preparations for uploading and rendering 20
Rendering of thumbnails and subimages 21
Submitting designs to OSPP 22

Open-Source Production Pattern guidelines (OSPP) v1.4 2022-02-07

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Organising pattern pieces in 2D window

• The 2D patterns should be grouped and organised so that pieces can be easily recognised in the 2D window,
please see the layout below..
• Use the “Symmetric Pattern” function on all pattern pieces that are symmetrical.
• Check that the grain lines are marked correctly.

Top pieces example Bottom pieces example

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Annotations and names on pattern pieces

Use the pattern annotation function to add information to the pattern pieces if needed, i.g. ease, pleats etc.

Give each pattern piece explanatory names in the property editor (not as annotations) so that they can be recognized in the 2D
window and after the have been printed out for production, eg. RHS Front, Back, RHS Sleeve, Top Collar etc. Denote Right and
Left with RHS (right hand side) or LHS (Left Hand Side).

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Fusing

Fused parts need to be marked for production. Use the bond function for this.

Bond the full piece if it should be block fused, i.e fused before cutting (this normally applies to pocket pieces, waistbands,
jacket collars etc.).

To fuse parts inside of a pattern piece:

• Create an internal shape inside of a pattern piece.
• Choose the Bond function under “Property Editor”. Then the pattern for the
fusing is automatically created in the Print Layout Bond window.

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Fusing along pattern outline
• Fusing pieces must be 2 mm smaller than the seam allowance in order work well in the fusing machine.
• Right click on the selected lines and use “Offset as internal line (Reversed Direction)” to create the outlines of
the fusing piece.
• Complete the fused area by drwaing internal lines. If needed, right click on the overlapping pointsand join them
to create an internal shape, mark it and choose Bond in the property editor.
• Check the grain line of the fusing under the fusing tab in the Print Layout mode (scroll down meny in the top
right corner).

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Seam allowance

All pattern pieces should include a seam allowance for the physical production.
Add the proper seam allowance according to the sewing method with the seam allowance tool in the 2D window.

Example:

1-Needle Lockstitch 1 cm 1 cm is generally used for 1-needle lockstitch seams.

Stiched and turned 0,5 cm 0,5 cm is generally used for stitched and turned 1-nee-
1-Needle Lockstitch dle lockstitch seams, eg. edges of collars and cuffs.

4-thread overlock 0,7 cm The overlock seam is generally 0,5 cm wide. 2 mm

margin is added to be cut away when sewing.

5-thread safety 1,2 cm The overlock plus chainstitch seam is generally 1 cm

stitch wide together. 2 mm margin is added to be cut away
when sewing.

Note: The seam allowance is only for joining seams and part of pieces “inside” of a seam, generally NOT for fold
and hems. See explanation in Seam allowance in 3D window.

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Seam allowance for hems and folds

To facilitate simlulation, and to be able to adjust stylelines in Jinny (or in the 3D window), we recommend hemfolds are marked as
seam allowance.
Make sure that the correct seam allowance angles are used if the ends are not 90 degrees (see below).

However, when handling hemfolds like this the inside of the hem is not visible in the 3D visualisation or rendering (see above).
If there is a need for inside hem visualisation, e.g. if the front and back side of the fabric has different textures or colours, then
create a separate hemline piece and stitch it in position on the inside. (Off-set and internal line as wide as the hem, then use the “Layer Clone
(Under)” function, then “Remove Linked Editing”, then use “Flip Normal” on the inside piece and finaly “Cut” on internal line of the inside piece to create the
hemline).
Copy the self fabric and name the new fabric “Self” (do NOT print) and asign this fabric to all hem pieces. See below.

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Topstitches

Use, as far as posible, the pre-defined topstitches with ISO-codes suplied by CLO.
Place, as far as possible, toptitches on the outlines of the patterns and offset if needed. Avoid unnecessary internal lines.

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Seam allowance for darts

If darts should not be cut open, i.e up to 2 cm wide, use internal lines at each dart leg and in the middle. Apply
fold values to the internal lines and fold in desired direction (below left.
If the dart should be cut open, leave the dart open and add seam allowance (below right).

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Notches and drill holes

Notches
• ONLY add notches that are necessary for the physical production to your pattern. Notches should be helpful when
sewing, i.e no notches for marking centre front, waist lines, places of measure etc.
• Place notes on long and/or curved lines notches every 20-40cm to facilitate assemling.
• Hem and fold lines should be marked with notches.

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Drillholes
• Pocket placements, end of darts etc. should be marked with drill holes.
• Create drill hole as a 3mm BASELINE circle with a cross inside. Baselines has to be used as no internal lines are
printed in production.
• Drill holes that mark the placement of details should be placed 3 mm inside of outline.
• Place drill holes 1 cm away from the dart point inside the dart.

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Point of measurement - POM

• Measurements are needed to control the garment production and of the grading. Only mark measurements that are
needed to maintain quality and that can be taken on a finished garment but at least the measurments shown in the
example below.
• Choose suitable measurements based on the design and of the garment.

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 Grading

• Garments must be graded in suitable steps and size range for the production.
• Use POM-list to control the grading.
• Download already graded styles from the OSPP archive for references if needed.
• Generic guidlines for tops and bottoms are provided below.
• Check the seamlengths in each size after grading has been applied. Adjust to make all seams correspond if needed.
• Please check the CLO manual for further instructions if needed..

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 Grading suggestion for shirt, differences between each alphabetic size (chest circumfence 6cm)

10mm

0mm 10mm
10mm
5mm

0mm 10mm 0mm

10mm

8mm 10mm
11mm

0mm
15mm

0mm

15mm
0mm

20mm
20mm

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 Grading suggestion for shirt, differences between each alphabetic size (chest circumfence 6cm)

0mm

4mm 10mm
10mm 5mm

0mm 0mm
0mm 10mm

0mm

4mm

4mm
1a0mm

0mm

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 Grading suggestion for jeans, differences between each inch size, i.e 29, 30, 31, 32 etc

0mm 5mm
3,2mm
0mm
3,2mm 3,2mm 5mm 5mm
0mm 5mm
0mm
3,2mm
3,2mm 3,2mm
3,2mm
5mm 5mm

4,2mm
5,7mm

0mm
0mm

2,5mm

0mm

2mm 2mm 2mm

0mm or other 0mm or other 0mm or other

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 Grading suggestion for wasitband ofjeans, differences between each inch size, i.e 29, 30, 31, 32 etc

0mm 0mm 0mm 0mm

0mm
12,6mm 6,3mm 0mm 12,6mm
6,3mm

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Visualisation

• Use the fabric texture from the “Default_OSPP_Fabric” file (availible for downloading from CLOSET CONNECT/
[a]industri.
• The woven checked lines should indicate scale and grain direction. The black lines indicate the grain direction
and the blue lines indicate the cross-grain direction. Each square should measure 10x10cm.
• Use fabric properties that are suitable for the design (can be changed in the bottom of the property editor).

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Preparations for uploading and rendering

• After setting up the visualsation and pattern save it in 2 version.

• One version called “name_workfile.zprj” for rendering images from.
• One version called “name_upload.zprj” for uploading where the avatar is deleted.
• The workfile is for rendering the thumbnail and subimages from.
• The workfile should include both the assembled garment and the flat pattern on the floor. Copy the pattern, select it, right click and
choose “reset 2D arrangments”
• Place the flat pattern under the avatar flat on the ground (avoid “footprints” on the fabric from the avatar).
• Turn of avatar visibility.
• Set particle distance to 5, and simulate with high-res before rendering.
• Open and use the rendering presets with the manual.

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Rendering of thumbnail Rendering of subimages

Thumbnail, both garment and pattern visible Subimages 600x800px

• 600x800px • Apply presets from manual.
• Apply presets from manual. • Subimage 1 should show the assembled garment only and
• The thumbnail should show both the assembled garment Subimage 2 should show the flat pattern on the floor.
and the flat pattern on the floor. • Camera angle and positioning for flat pattern as below.
• Camera angle and positioning as below.

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Submiting design to OSPP

A submission of patterns to OSPP should include:

• Upload file (Zprj file according to specifications without avatar)

• Workfile (Zprj file with avatar and a copy of pattern flat on the floor)
• Thumbnail and 2 subimages

All files should be zipped to one single file and sent to [email protected] for validation and uploading.

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