CLO SET Manual 1.44566y7
CLO SET Manual 1.44566y7
CLO SET Manual 1.44566y7
1
Introduction
This manual contains guidelines and technical specifications required for patterns and visualisations to be published
under [a]industri Open Source Patterns (OSPP) on CLO-SET CONNECT.
The patterns of the styles shared through this platform should be ready for production. I.e. include all information
such as seam allowance, notches, grading etc needed for industrial production.
Please visit CLO-SET CONNECT> Help Centre> CLO-SET CONNECT Manual for general guidelines regarding
CLO-SET CONNECT.
Table of contents:
Introduction 2
Organising pattern pieces in 2D window 3
Annotations and names on pattern pieces 4
Fusing 5
Fusing inside of a pattern piece 5
Fusing outside of a pattern outline 6
Seam allowance 7
Seam allowance in 3D window 8
Topstitches 9
Seam allowance for darts 10
Notches and drill holes 11
Notches 11
Drill holes 12
Point of measureme (POM) 13
Grading 14
Visualisation 19
Preparations for uploading and rendering 20
Rendering of thumbnails and subimages 21
Submitting designs to OSPP 22
2
Organising pattern pieces in 2D window
• The 2D patterns should be grouped and organised so that pieces can be easily recognised in the 2D window,
please see the layout below..
• Use the “Symmetric Pattern” function on all pattern pieces that are symmetrical.
• Check that the grain lines are marked correctly.
3
Annotations and names on pattern pieces
Use the pattern annotation function to add information to the pattern pieces if needed, i.g. ease, pleats etc.
Give each pattern piece explanatory names in the property editor (not as annotations) so that they can be recognized in the 2D
window and after the have been printed out for production, eg. RHS Front, Back, RHS Sleeve, Top Collar etc. Denote Right and
Left with RHS (right hand side) or LHS (Left Hand Side).
4
Fusing
Fused parts need to be marked for production. Use the bond function for this.
Bond the full piece if it should be block fused, i.e fused before cutting (this normally applies to pocket pieces, waistbands,
jacket collars etc.).
5
Fusing along pattern outline
• Fusing pieces must be 2 mm smaller than the seam allowance in order work well in the fusing machine.
• Right click on the selected lines and use “Offset as internal line (Reversed Direction)” to create the outlines of
the fusing piece.
• Complete the fused area by drwaing internal lines. If needed, right click on the overlapping pointsand join them
to create an internal shape, mark it and choose Bond in the property editor.
• Check the grain line of the fusing under the fusing tab in the Print Layout mode (scroll down meny in the top
right corner).
6
Seam allowance
All pattern pieces should include a seam allowance for the physical production.
Add the proper seam allowance according to the sewing method with the seam allowance tool in the 2D window.
Example:
Stiched and turned 0,5 cm 0,5 cm is generally used for stitched and turned 1-nee-
1-Needle Lockstitch dle lockstitch seams, eg. edges of collars and cuffs.
Note: The seam allowance is only for joining seams and part of pieces “inside” of a seam, generally NOT for fold
and hems. See explanation in Seam allowance in 3D window.
7
Seam allowance for hems and folds
To facilitate simlulation, and to be able to adjust stylelines in Jinny (or in the 3D window), we recommend hemfolds are marked as
seam allowance.
Make sure that the correct seam allowance angles are used if the ends are not 90 degrees (see below).
However, when handling hemfolds like this the inside of the hem is not visible in the 3D visualisation or rendering (see above).
If there is a need for inside hem visualisation, e.g. if the front and back side of the fabric has different textures or colours, then
create a separate hemline piece and stitch it in position on the inside. (Off-set and internal line as wide as the hem, then use the “Layer Clone
(Under)” function, then “Remove Linked Editing”, then use “Flip Normal” on the inside piece and finaly “Cut” on internal line of the inside piece to create the
hemline).
Copy the self fabric and name the new fabric “Self” (do NOT print) and asign this fabric to all hem pieces. See below.
8
Topstitches
Use, as far as posible, the pre-defined topstitches with ISO-codes suplied by CLO.
Place, as far as possible, toptitches on the outlines of the patterns and offset if needed. Avoid unnecessary internal lines.
9
Seam allowance for darts
If darts should not be cut open, i.e up to 2 cm wide, use internal lines at each dart leg and in the middle. Apply
fold values to the internal lines and fold in desired direction (below left.
If the dart should be cut open, leave the dart open and add seam allowance (below right).
10
Notches and drill holes
Notches
• ONLY add notches that are necessary for the physical production to your pattern. Notches should be helpful when
sewing, i.e no notches for marking centre front, waist lines, places of measure etc.
• Place notes on long and/or curved lines notches every 20-40cm to facilitate assemling.
• Hem and fold lines should be marked with notches.
11
Drillholes
• Pocket placements, end of darts etc. should be marked with drill holes.
• Create drill hole as a 3mm BASELINE circle with a cross inside. Baselines has to be used as no internal lines are
printed in production.
• Drill holes that mark the placement of details should be placed 3 mm inside of outline.
• Place drill holes 1 cm away from the dart point inside the dart.
12
Point of measurement - POM
• Measurements are needed to control the garment production and of the grading. Only mark measurements that are
needed to maintain quality and that can be taken on a finished garment but at least the measurments shown in the
example below.
• Choose suitable measurements based on the design and of the garment.
13
Grading
• Garments must be graded in suitable steps and size range for the production.
• Use POM-list to control the grading.
• Download already graded styles from the OSPP archive for references if needed.
• Generic guidlines for tops and bottoms are provided below.
• Check the seamlengths in each size after grading has been applied. Adjust to make all seams correspond if needed.
• Please check the CLO manual for further instructions if needed..
14
Grading suggestion for shirt, differences between each alphabetic size (chest circumfence 6cm)
10mm
0mm 10mm
10mm
5mm
8mm 10mm
11mm
0mm
15mm
0mm
15mm
0mm
20mm
20mm
15
Grading suggestion for shirt, differences between each alphabetic size (chest circumfence 6cm)
0mm
4mm 10mm
10mm 5mm
0mm 0mm
0mm 10mm
0mm
4mm
4mm
1a0mm
0mm
16
Grading suggestion for jeans, differences between each inch size, i.e 29, 30, 31, 32 etc
0mm 5mm
3,2mm
0mm
3,2mm 3,2mm 5mm 5mm
0mm 5mm
0mm
3,2mm
3,2mm 3,2mm
3,2mm
5mm 5mm
4,2mm
5,7mm
0mm
0mm
2,5mm
0mm
17
Grading suggestion for wasitband ofjeans, differences between each inch size, i.e 29, 30, 31, 32 etc
18
Visualisation
• Use the fabric texture from the “Default_OSPP_Fabric” file (availible for downloading from CLOSET CONNECT/
[a]industri.
• The woven checked lines should indicate scale and grain direction. The black lines indicate the grain direction
and the blue lines indicate the cross-grain direction. Each square should measure 10x10cm.
• Use fabric properties that are suitable for the design (can be changed in the bottom of the property editor).
19
Preparations for uploading and rendering
20
Rendering of thumbnail Rendering of subimages
21
Submiting design to OSPP
All files should be zipped to one single file and sent to [email protected] for validation and uploading.
22