Construction Guide for the Douglas F4D Skyray

By Brent Hecht

1
Beginning Notes: A 100% FLAT SURFACE. Repeat step
If your parts are not fully released for the other side. See the next 3
from the foam sheet, use a sharp pictures
hobby knife or razor blade to cut
through the BACKSIDE of the foam
(the side that is not fully cut). Cut
from the BACKSIDE. IT MAY BE
REQUIRED TO SAND THE EDGES
OF THE PARTS to get a nice tight fit,
as the laser creates a little ridge on the
edges. This is normal. Whatever you
do, use a SHARP blade.

EDF Conversion instructions are at

the end of this manual.

** In addition, future kits included a

joined rudder and center vertical
profile. This modification does not
effect the following instructions,
except that it is not pictured in some
photos.

Read the entire instruction manual

before building your kit.

Wing Assembly:
Locate the center wing panel, and one of
Next, find the AFT center wing panel,
the outer wing panels. Use LOW TACK
align tabs, then glue into place.
TAPE to hold the center and outer
panels together. After taping them
together, fold the panel out, apply
adhesive, then fold panel flat again and
let dry. MAKE SURE YOU BUILD ON

2
Carbon Spar Assembly:

**NOTE: IF YOU ARE BUILDING

THE EDF VERSION, GO TO THE
SUPPLIMENTAL INSTRUCTIONS
ON PAGE 18 NOW**

Locate the carbon spar, and insert in the

slot. DO NOT GLUE IN SPAR YET!
Now, using the same low tack tape,
holding on tightly to the spar, apply tape
over one side of the spar. Remove the
spar, but leave the tape. Using 5 minute
epoxy, apply a generous amount inside
the spar channel. INSERT SPAR,
MAKING SURE ITS ALL THE WAY
IN, and wipe off any excess epoxy. Let
dry, then pull off the tape. You now have
a very strong spar. See next 4 pictures

** Aft Fuse Vertical Profile:

Using a ruler and a hobby knife, cut
down the middle through the alignment
tabs, creating TWO pieces. Using a
right angle, like a CD ROM case or 90
degree tool, glue the profile piece to the
wing using adhesive, making sure it
stays 100% vertical to the wing until dry.
It is very important to make sure the Aft
Fuse Vertical Profile be attached at a
right angle to the wing assembly.

3
 There are alignment holes showing
where the sheeting needs to meet the
vertical profile. The lower edge should
meet the wing just outside of the panel
gap from the center and outer wing
panels. The upper sheeting should over
lap this gap slightly, this adds some
strength to the wing.

Upper Sheeting: After the sheeting has been beveled to fit

Locate the upper sheeting, there should snugly to the wing/vertical profile,
be two pieces, they are long, and have AGAIN, ON A FLAT SURFACE (if not
pointed aft ends. You will need to sand built on a flat surface the wing may end
bevels on both long edges of these up warped) using the CD ROM case
pieces in order for them to fit from the again as a right angle, support the
wing to the center profile. They should vertical profile with the CD ROM case,
fit with out any noticeable gaps after then align the sheeting, and glue only the
sanding. Take you time on this, and test TOP EDGE FOR NOW. This will make
fit as much as needed in order to obtain a the process easier. After it is dry, lift up
good fit. the sheeting enough to put glue down on
the wing where the sheeting contacts the
wing. Then, making sure the vertical
profile it still 100% vertical to the wing,
apply adhesive, and hold sheeting in
place until dry, repeat for the other side.

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 Aft Sheeting:
Next we move on to the aft sheeting.
This also must be done keeping the wing
on a flat surface. The kit is designed
with some extra material for this step to
aid in the building process. Take a ruler,
measure out 4" from the back as shown,
parallel to the centerline of the fuse, then
cut on both sides.

Motor Mount:
The next step is to epoxy in the motor
mount stick. Use 5 minute epoxy, and
again, do this on a flat surface. You can
use a piece of tape over the epoxy until it
dries to keep it off the building surface.
See pictures below.

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Next, you will need to bevel the
sheeting. Take time to bevel until the
sheeting fits nice to the center wing.
There will be some extra foam hanging
off the back, this is ok, i did this to allow
the builder some room to play. Next,
glue the tip of the sheeting down to the
center wing as shown. Remove excess
foam from the back edge. Picture on
next page.

Next, cut some small wedges of foam

from some of the scrap you have, and
glue them into the gap between the
upper and lower parts of the sheeting as
shown. Study the following pictures for
reference.

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 hard, you just want indentions along the
lines.

Repeat for the other side.

Lower Center Profile:

Find the LOWER center profile. Align
tabs and glue into place, again using the
CD ROM case or right angle to make
sure it is glued on at a right angle.
Picture on following page.

Next, using a hair dryer or heat gun, heat

the sheeting on both sides, SLOWY
working a bend into the sheeting along
the lines you just made. If using a heat
gun, use extreme caution. The foam will
melt rapidly and suddenly. Take your
Bottom Sheeting: time, and don’t get too close to the foam
with the heat, IT WILL MELT. You just
Locate the large rectangle of foam for need to get it warm enough to be able to
the bottom sheeting. Measure out the put a slight bend in it. You should be
center line on the piece lengthwise, and able to install this on the plane without
mark with a ruler and pen. Next, mark have to hold the shape in it, It should
out lines parallel to the center line every already be formed to fit right. This may
1/4" to about 1.5-2" on either side of the take a little time to learn how to do, so
centerline. This step helps the sheeting remain patient.
to bend. Next, using your pen, press
down into these lines you just made,
making depressions in the foam along
these lines. Be careful not to push to

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 Locate the AFT LOWER SHEETING
you may use the heat gun on this piece
too, but it may be small enough to work
the bend into it with your hands, BUT
BE CAREFUL NOT TO BEND IT TOO
FAR AND CRACK IT, as this can make
installation more difficult. If you break
the piece, simply glue back together and
start again. Instead of sanding a bevel
into the sheeting like the upper after
fuse, sand the taper into the center wing,
take your time to get this to fit nice,
EXTRA MATERIAL FOR THE
BUILDER is built into the piece so you
have plenty of material. Once the
sheeting is glued into place, you will
have to trim the extra, and do a little
sanding on the gap between the main
bottom sheeting and the aft bottom
sheeting.

Next, just like the upper sheeting, you

will have to bevel the edges to make this
sheeting fit nice and tight with the wing.

Next, using the marked center line as a

guide, glue the bottom sheeting to the
center profile, and to the wing, again, the
sheeting should overlap the gap in the
wing panels.

Aft Lower Sheeting:

8
Forward Fuse:
This section consists of the 2 sides, 3
formers, 1" strips and 1/2" strips of
foam, and the bottom sheeting.

Glue the 1" strips to the bottoms of the

side panels, i only glue the UPPER half
of the 1" strips, as the rest will get
sanded off when you round the corners.
This also helps in the sanding process, so
it’s not so hard to sand through the glue.

Next, glue the 1/2"strips to the bottom of

the 1" strips, in a flat fasion as shown.
i tape the 1/2" strips in first, then lay
open, glue, kicker, then fold back and let
dry. Then remove tape and repeat for
the other side, making sure you make a
right and left side, or sides that mirror
each other!

9
Next locate the aft forward fuse former.
Glue this to 1 of the sides, at the very aft
end on the side sheeting...making sure its
aligned with the back of the completed
side. Also, form the top view, it should
be at a right angle to the side of the
sheeting.

Next, glue the small former to the front

of the two sides, bringing the side
together to meet with the former. IT IS
IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THE
FORWARD FUSE IS STRAIGHT
WHILE YOU HOLD IT WHILE GLUE
DRIES. If not, the nose will not be
straight.
Next, glue the second former in the same
fashion, in the middle of the side sheet,
so that the bottom and top of the former
meet with the bottom and top of the side
sheet.

Next, glue the left and right hand sides

together at the formers. See next picture

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Next, glue the bottom sheeting on, again Inlet Installation: Next find the 6 pink
do this on a flat surface, and only apply foam inlet pieces. These pieces are not
the glue where you will not be sanding perfectly symmetrical, so before you
to avoid over use of glue, and to ensure glue them together, make sure they are
easy shaping with sandpaper. well aligned. Then glue three together
for each side.

Next, test fir them to the model. Again,

extra foam has been added to allow you
to get things to fit right. It will take a
small amount of trimming to get them to
fit.

Using 5 minute epoxy, glue the forward

fuse to the aft fuse, making sure the nose
is straight both up and down, and left to
right.

Next, make marks where you want to

shape the inlets, and use a long carpet
cutting blade or rough sandpaper to
rough shape the pieces to fit close to the
fuse, final shaping takes place after you
glue them to the model. More pictures
on following page

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Forward Fuse Shaping: Nose Cone Assembly:
Shape the front fuse by using a sharp Take the three pre-cut nose cone pieces
blade or rough sandpaper (electric and glue together much like the inlets in
sander) to achieve a round look being the previous steps. The pieces are much
careful not to sand too deep to create a larger than needed, sand to a round
hole. It is useful to mark off the front of shape. See next page for pictures.
the nose where you want to be when
done sanding. Study next three pictures
for reference.

12
 trimming slowly until you get the
canopy to fit all the way around on the
nose cone, side walls and aft fuse. This
will take a little time to get this to fit
nice, but its worth the effort. Next, paint
cockpit floor, and assemble your pilot,
and install before using 5minute epoxy
to secure the canopy to the cockpit floor.
Do not glue the assembly down, as your
battery will go in the compartment. See
next six pictures for reference.

Cockpit Floor:
Next, find the cockpit floor, and cockpit.
There is also a small amount of extra
foam on the cockpit floor, to allow for
different build tolerances between
builders. You are going to want the
edge of the floor to be about the
thickness of the canopy inside of the side
walls, to accommodate for the thickness
of the canopy, so it fits flush to the side
walls.

Take note to the back of the floor, where

you will have to sand quite a bit off in
order for the canopy to fit to the main
fuse. You only get ONE shot at the
canopy...TAKE YOUR TIME ON THIS
STEP!

Begin by trimming the canopy as large

as you can at first, so you don’t cut too
much off. Next, begin test fitting and

13
 Next, hinge your elevons with 3 CA
hinges on each side or hinge tape. Then
install the control horns with 5 minute
epoxy. Using the supplied pushrods
(some extra length has been given)
install on the control horns, then make
holes for your servos on the bottom of
the Skyray, then hot glue them into
place.

Control Surface Prep:

Next you need to round off all the
leading edges on both wings and rudder.
you will also need to taper the rudder,
and TAPER ONLY THE BOTTOM OF
THE ELEVONS, this acts as reflex in a
airfoil, and reduces the amount of up
trim needed like most delta winged
aircraft need. if your Skyray’s center of
gravity is correct, it wont need any up
trim at all of you taper only the bottom
of the elevons.

Final Equipment Install:

After the servos are in place, you may
use servo extensions to put your Rx in
NOTE: The rudder now comes the nose compartment, or you can make
attached to the center profile: This a small hatch and locate the Rx in the the
step is unnecessary in newer kits. vast open area inside the main fuse.
Next, you are going to glue on the you will need to make a battery
rudder. Use 5 minute epoxy, and while extension to power your ESC/motor
installing, make 100% sure its install motor mount and motor onto
STRAIGHT AND COMPLETELY stick.
VERTICAL.

14
CONTROL THROWS AND EXPO
UP/DOWN: 3/4" 40-45% EXPO
LEFT/RIGHT: 1/2" 40-45% expo
LOW RATES -
ELEV:65-70% 25-30%EXPO
AILERON: 60-70% 25-30%EXPO

Center of Gravity (CG) is located 10.5" at the seam of the sheeting and wing (bottom)
from the corner of the wing/fuse/elevon, or 4.25" from where the wing meets the inlet.

CONGRATULATIONS! Your model is now complete.

The model can be flown as is or can be painted using a variety of paints (see the next step
for painting advice). I actually recommend test flying the airplane before painting it to
allow making the maiden flight at the lowest possible weight and to allow you to more
easily fix any internal problems that might arise.

PAINTING TIPS - This model can be painted with a wide variety of paints, just make
sure to test compatibility with the foam first. The prototype was painted with standard
acrylic craft paint (available at most craft stores), which can be applied with either a
brush or airbrush. Here are a few painting tips:

• Wipe the entire model with rubbing alcohol before painting to remove all grease
and dirt.
• Rough areas should be filled with lightweight wall spackling compound thinned
with water, which fills the holes and can be sanded to a very smooth finish with
minimal weight gain.
• Primer isn’t required over Depron, but applying a coat of water-based
polyurethane (WBPU) will help seal the foam and provide a smoother
finish. Mixing some microballons or baby powder in with the WBPU will help fill
holes even better and improves the finish further.
• When thinning acrylic paint for use in an airbrush, thin roughly 50/50 with
windshield wiper fluid. The wiper fluid will allow the paint to dry faster (relative
to thinning with water), which reduces the chance of runs. It will not affect the
finish.

15
16
For more information on this model, see
the RC Groups discussion thread:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt
hread.php?t=697467

or the related thread:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt
hread.php?t=537052

Or our website:
http://www.6mmflyrc.com

17
EDF Supplemental Guide cutting this area away once the upper
sheeting is done. Next, glue the
**This kit is designed to hold a 70mm rudder/upper profile to the center profile,
fan. We also recognize there are many making sure to keep at a 90 deg angle
ways to accomplish mounting a fan and while it dries. This is described in
should you experience issues, please greater detail on pages 3-4.
contact us via our website
(6mmflyrc.com) and we will support
your build to the best of our
knowledge.**

Step 1:

Glue the 2 wing panels to the center

profile panel. Cut two 10.25" long
carbon fiber (CF) rods from the CF rod
provided in the kit, making two separate
rods. Make sure to scuff them well with
some 120 grit sandpaper, then wipe
clean with rubbing alcohol. This will Step 3:
provide a good bond with the epoxy.
Next, epoxy in the spars into the wings, Next, move on to the upper sheeting,
using 5-10minute epoxy. This is the beveling the edges until they fit tight,
same technique explained on page 3 of make sure that the tops of the sheeting
this manual. align with the small alignment holes, and
that the bottom of the sheets slightly
over lap the seem between the center
profile and wing panels, make sure to do
this all on a flat surface, otherwise you
will end up twisting the airframe,
resulting in warped wings.
Next, glue in small pieces of scrap foam
in the open areas back by the exhaust
opening...as shown in the picture. This
step is very similar to the ones described
on page 4.

Step 2:

Using the rudder/upper profile piece,

measure 4.5" back from the front, then
measure 1.65" up from the bottom, and
1.5" up from the bottom of the aft of the
part, connect the 2 lines as shown drawn
on the profile in the picture. You will be

18
Step 3 Continued.
Step 4:

With the top sheeting done, we can

move onto the bottom of the main fuse.
On the bottom of the center profile, you
will draw some lines that will be later
cut with a sharp hobby knife. On the
center line, measure 5" back from the
tab, and make a mark. Next, measure out
1.15" from the center, going outward
make a mark on each side. Next mark
2.15" outside of the previous marks,
make another mark on each side. Now
starting again from the center line on the
front, measure back 8.6" and mark.
Measure from the center at this mark,
1.5" on each side, and make a mark.
now, at the aft end, in the opening area,
mark 1.5" from the center line on each
side. Next, at the mark that is 8.6" back
from the LE of the center profile, in a
1/2 wide line, mark out the spot for the
fan mount/bulkhead. Once you connect
the dots with a straight edge, it will look
like this.

19
Step 5: Step 6:

Next, take the two fan mount bulkheads, Next, take the plywood spar (large one)
and glue them together. This makes one and 5 minute epoxy this directly onto the
bulkhead, .5" thick. Slightly bevel the CF spars, using 5-10 minute epoxy,
front side of the hole where the fan goes, making sure to keep it 90deg to the
this will help the ducting fit in better. center profile. NOTE: In the photo, there
Cut out the 1/2" wide strip you marked is foam cut out...do not do this yet! This
for the bulkhead, and epoxy this was an error.
bulkhead in with 5 minute epoxy,
making sure that the bulkhead is 90 deg
to the center profile. Pictures on next
page.

Step 7:

Next you will need to get the bottom

profile piece out. Cut the first 5" off,
and glue to the center profile as shown.
After this is complete, remove the rest of
the foam outlined in ink. The bottom
profile piece was removed from the top
profile piece and is described on page 3-
4.

20
Step 8:

Next, get out the two 6mm inner inlet

walls. Bevel to shape so they will fit
snugly inside, as shown in the pictures.

Step 9:

Next take the two 3mm outer inlet walls,

and study the following pictures. A
little extra foam has been given around
the edges to allow the builder to suit the
inlets to his personal model.

Using a hair dryer, or heat gun, and

using your hand, SLOWY (this takes
some time) SLOWLY form them into a

21
C channel shape, using your fingers, and
heat gun. You want the aft part to fit
inside that bevel you made on the fan
mount, and the front side to match the
shape of the inlets. Once the shape is
established, start to sand the edges as
required to get them to fit well. This will
some time, but the ducting will be a
large factor in the performance of this
EDF, so take your time. Glue the top
seem first, folding it back as shown, then
glue the bottom seem, and of course the
seem at the fan mount. There will be
some extra material left inside the fan
mount, and that is normal. You will sand
that smooth to fit the lip of the fan unit.

Step 10:

There are two small triangle shaped

plywood pieces with the EDF kit, these
are spar supports, and are not necessary,
though they provide a little extra
support.

Use 5 minute epoxy to secure them

between the CF spars and the 6mm
sheeting, as shown in the picture. The

22
picture depicts foam supports, not the
ply supports included in your conversion
kit.

If you remove the mounting tabs from

the fan (you wont need them) the fan/tail
pipe can slide through the back as one
unit, however, if you don’t want to cut
the mount lugs off, you can place the fan
Inlet finishing/ Fan Mounting: inside(not secured) then slide your tail
pipe through the back of the model, and
Now that the inlets are done, check the mating them while inside the fuselage.
fit of the fan (Wemotech 480/
HET6904/AP700 or other 70mm fans). Once your happy with the fan angle
(should be 0-0, with no up/down/or side
You will need to sand the edges down thrust) and the tail pipe has been secured
where the inlet walls meet with the fan with clear tape all the way around, use 3
mount/bulkhead. You want all the separate "blobs" of hot glue to hold the
transitions to be smooth, and gentle, with fan in. this works well, but if you think
no "lips" around anything. You may you are going to be taking it in and out a
mount the ESC on the outside of the lot, you may want to construct up some
exhaust tube, with the heat sink of the permanent plywood mounts.
ESC inside the tail pipe. Use hot glue to
attach the ESC to the tail pipe. To make Go ahead and sheet the bottom of the
the tail pipe, use printers mylar, plastic model as done with the pusher version,
sheet (very thin), heavy construction and after you are all the way done with
paper, or rolled 1mm depron. We have the bottom sheeting, cut a hatch in the
found that printers mylar is the bottom for access to fan/radio gear, as
strongest/easiest to work with. the Rx will be mounted in the back,
behind and off to the side of the fan.
The exit diameter of the pipe should be
about 2.25" diameter. The pipe should The CG is in the same location as the
be centered in the exit, and slight toward pusher, and we find that 2100 3s and 4s
the bottom, but not resting on the bottom packs will balance well in the nose. We
of the exit (see picture). have flown this version (EDF) up to
27oz, and it’s still a floater.

23
Please note, at speeds of 100mph, you
may want to install larger servos for the
elevons (HS81). If you are not planning
on going over 80mph, HS55's will work
well.

If you run into problems, please send us

an e-mail via our website
(6mmflyrc.com) or you may post to the
discussion forum regarding this model
at:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt
hread.php?t=703287

You can now proceed to page 7 and the

bottom sheeting section to complete
your model.

24