Textbook Hiking Tramping in New Zealand 8Th Edition Lonely Planet Ebook All Chapter PDF
Textbook Hiking Tramping in New Zealand 8Th Edition Lonely Planet Ebook All Chapter PDF
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Hiking & Tramping in New
Zealand
Contents
PLAN YOUR TRIP
ON THE TRACK
WEST COAST
Old Ghost Road
Paparoa National Park
Inland Pack Track
Westland Tai Poutini National Park
Welcome Flat
Towns & Facilities
Westport
Greymouth
Punakaiki
Fox Glacier
Franz Josef Glacier
UNDERSTAND
SURVIVE
Directory A-Z
Accessible Travel
Children
Climate
Customs Regulations
Electricity
Emergency & Important Numbers
Entry & Exit Formalities
Food & Drink
Health
Insurance
Internet Access
Legal Matters
LGBT+ Travellers
Maps
Money
Opening Hours
Post
Public Holidays
Safe Travel
Telephone
Time
Toilets
Tourist Information
Volunteering
Women Travellers
Transport
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Entering the Country/Region
Air
Land
Sea
GETTING AROUND
Air
Bicycle
Boat
Bus
Car & Motorcycle
Hitching & Ride-Sharing
Local Transport
Train
Accommodation
B&Bs
Camping & Holiday Parks
Farmstays
Hostels
Pubs, Hotels & Motels
Rental Accommodation
Booking Services
Glossary
Behind the Scenes
Our Writers
Welcome to New Zealand
There may be no country on earth as naturally
diverse as New Zealand. Here glaciers leak through
rainforest, volcanoes form a beating heart, sun-
blazed beaches frame coastal national parks, and
ice-tipped mountains hack at the sky.
Jewels of Nature
It’s the extraordinary natural architecture that lures trampers, but NZ also
comes jewelled with one of the planet’s finest and most extensive track
networks. The natural drama all around the country is worthy of the theatre,
but the boards you’ll tread are tracks that climb through mountain passes, or
trace the lines of rivers or lakes, or disappear momentarily into the soft sand
of long beaches.
Hut Havens
Almost 1000 huts dot the trails, which are headlined by a Great Walks
system that has long been envied and mimicked by the rest of the world.
Even in the most remote reaches, huts await – often with historical tales as
engrossing as the views. DOC maintains more than 950 huts in its national
parks, conservation areas and reserves. While many were purpose-built for
trampers and climbers, others stand as a legacy to industries such as
forestry, farming, mining and deer culling. Today they form a network that
offers cheap, character-filled accommodation in the most unlikely places, a
unique and highly treasured feature of the NZ backcountry.
Easy Does It
Reward here doesn’t always require effort. Certainly, you can slog it to the
top of hard-earned alpine passes such as Cascade Saddle for mountain
views beyond excellence, but there are equally worthy prizes that can be
found in committing just a few hours to walk to points beneath the hanging
terminus of Rob Roy Glacier, or along empty and wild bays around the
northern tip of Coromandel Peninsula.
Space Invaders
Evidence of what awaits comes in the numbers. There are just 4.8 million
New Zealanders, scattered across more than 260,000 sq km: bigger than the
UK with one-fourteenth of the population. Filling in the large gaps in
between are the sublime mountains, forests, lakes, beaches and fiords that
have made NZ one of the world’s most desirable hiking destinations. Stand
on a Fiordland pass with mountains rearing above, beside a dazzling
volcanic lake in Tongariro, or on an Abel Tasman beach lined with forest,
and you’ll see why NZ tramping tracks have labels such as ‘finest walk in
the world’ and ‘best day walk in the world’. And yet those very tracks may
not even be the best in the country.
Mt Taranaki | RONNIE LI/500PX ©
By Andrew Bain, Writer
They call them Great Walks for a reason, but any time I’m on one of these
showpiece tramps, I find my eye wandering elsewhere on the map. The New
Zealand landscape reads like an open invitation to explore on foot – into that
valley, onto that pass, along that beach. Like few other places on earth, you
can wake with a hankering to hike a particular landscape – be it mountains or
beach, forest or alpine – and find that there are possibilities in quick reach of
wherever you stand in the country.
For more about our writers
New Zealand’s Great Walks
Abel Tasman Coast Track
Routinely touted as New Zealand’s most beautiful Great Walk, the
Abel Tasman Coast Track is also the most popular. Located in the
country’s smallest national park, this track brings together great
weather, granite cliffs, golden sands and a bushy backdrop. Spot
seals and birds, explore fascinating estuaries, hidden inlets and
freshwater pools, study bizarre rock formations and significant
trees…or simply laze around on that beach towel you packed. Water
taxis and kayak trips offer endless options for maximising enjoyment.
GUAXINIM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Great Walks
Lake Waikaremoana
Remote, immense and shrouded in mist, Te Urewera encompasses
the North Island’s largest tract of virgin forest. The park’s highlight is
Lake Waikaremoana (‘Sea of Rippling Waters’), a deep crucible of
water encircled by the Lake Waikaremoana track. This tramp passes
through ancient rainforest and reedy inlets, and traverses gnarly
ridges, including the famous Panekiri Bluff, from where there are
stupendous views of the lake and endless forested peaks and
valleys.
WESTEND61/GETTY IMAGES ©
Great Walks
Whanganui Journey
The Great Walk you can have when you’re not having a walk, the
Whanganui Journey is actually a canoe or kayak trip along the
Whanganui River, NZ’s longest navigable waterway. It’s a journey
through sheer gorges, where the reflections can almost induce
vertigo, and over short bouncy rapids. The forest is dense and the
views are immense. Along the way it passes the folly-like Bridge to
Nowhere, numerous bush campsites and the only DOC hut in the
country that’s also used as a marae (Māori meeting house).
JANETTEASCHE/GETTY IMAGES ©
Great Walks
Heaphy Track
This wild and wonderful historic crossing from Golden Bay to the
West Coast dishes up the most diverse scenery of any of the Great
Walks, taking in dense forest, tussock-covered downs, caves,
secluded valleys and beaches dusted in salt spray and fringed by
nikau palms. It’s a mighty wilderness, and if time’s at a premium you
can always mountain bike it (in winter and spring, at least)…
SAM LANE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Great Walks
Kepler Track
One of three Great Walks within Fiordland National Park, the Kepler
Track was built to take pressure off the Milford and Routeburn. Many
trampers now say it rivals both of them. This high crossing takes you
from the peaceful, beech-forested shores of Lake Te Anau and Lake
Manapouri before bumping across the alpine tops of Mt Luxmore.
Expect towering limestone bluffs, razor-edged ridges, vast views and
crazy caves. The Kepler is a truly spectacular way to appreciate the
grandeur of NZ’s largest national park.
Milford Track
The finest walk in the world? Somebody once thought so, and wrote
as much in a London newspaper…and so the mythology of the
Milford Track was born. If it’s hyperbole, it’s only by degrees, for this
track is a compendium of all good mountain things: gin-clear
streams, dense rainforest, an unforgettable alpine pass and
Sutherland Falls; one of the highest waterfalls in the world.
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thousand Hunanese troops at Hami, and twenty thousand more
under General Liu[140] at Kashgar. One of his Generals was that
Tung Fu-hsiang who subsequently became known to the world as
the leader of the bloodthirsty Kansuh soldiery at Peking in 1900; at
the taking of Khotan he laid the foundations of his reputation for
truculent ferocity. Tso firmly believed that his Hunanese were the
finest fighting men in the world, and was most anxious to use them,
in 1879, in trying conclusions with the Russians, boasting that with
two hundred thousand of them he would easily march to St.
Petersburg and there dictate a peace which should wipe out the
humiliating concessions negotiated by Ch’ung Hou in the Treaty of
Livadia. Fortunately for him, his patriotic ambitions came to the ears
of the Empress Dowager, who, desiring no more complications,
recalled him in hot haste to Peking, where she loaded him with
honours and rewards.
His was the simple nature of the elementary fighter, inured to the
hard life of camps. He knew little of other lands, but professed the
greatest admiration for Bismarck, chiefly because of the enormous
indemnity which the German conqueror had exacted as the price of
victory, Tso’s own troops being accustomed to live almost exclusively
on the spoils of war. He despised wealth for himself, but loved
plunder for his men.
Upon his triumphant return to Peking he was informed that the
Palace authorities expected him to pay forty thousand taels as “gate-
money” before entering the capital. Tso flatly refused. “The Emperor
has sent for me,” he said, “and I have come, but I will not pay a cash.
If he wishes to see me, he must either obtain for me free entry or pay
the gate-money himself.” He waited stolidly five days and then had
his way, entering scot-free. Later, when the Empress Dowager made
him a present of ten thousand taels, he divided the money between
his soldiers and the poor.
SUN CHIA-NAI
This official, chiefly known to fame among his countrymen as one
of the tutors of His Majesty Kuang-Hsü, was a sturdy Conservative of
the orthodox type, but an honest and kindly man. His character and
opinions may be gauged from a well-known saying of his: “One
Chinese character is better than ten thousand words of the
barbarians. By knowing Chinese a man may rise to become a Grand
Secretary; by knowing the tongues of the barbarians, he can at best
aspire to become the mouth-piece of other men.”
Ceiling and Pillars of the Tai Ho Tien.
In his later years he felt and expressed great grief at the condition
of his country, and particularly in regard to the strained relations
between the Empress Dowager and the Emperor. He traced the first
causes of these misfortunes to the war with Japan, and never
ceased to blame his colleague, the Imperial Tutor Weng T’ung-ho,
for persuading the Emperor to sign the Decree whereby that war was
declared, which he described as the act of a madman. Weng,
however, was by no means alone in holding the opinion that China
could easily dispose of the Japanese forces by land and by sea. It
was well-known at Court, and the Emperor must have learned it from
more than one quarter, that several foreigners holding high positions
under the Chinese Government, including the Inspector-General of
Customs (Sir Robert Hart), concurred in the view that China had
practically no alternative but to declare war in view of Japan’s high-
handed proceedings and insulting attitude. Prestige apart, it was
probable that the Emperor was by no means averse to taking this
step on his own authority, even though he knew that the Empress
Dowager was opposed to the idea of war, because of its inevitable
interference with the preparations for her sixtieth birthday; at that
moment, Tzŭ Hsi was living in quasi-retirement at the Summer
Palace. After war had been declared and China’s reverses began,
she complained to the Emperor and to others, that the fatal step had
been taken without her knowledge and consent, but this was only
“making face,” for it is certain that she had been kept fully informed
of all that was done and that, had she so desired, she could easily
have prevented the issue of the Decree, and the despatch of the
Chinese troops to Asan. Sun Chia-nai’s reputation for sagacity was
increased after the event, and upon the subsequent disgrace and
dismissal of Weng T’ung-ho he stood high in Her Majesty’s favour.
Nevertheless his loyalty to the unfortunate Emperor remained
unshaken.
In 1898, his tendencies were theoretically on the side of reform,
but he thoroughly disapproved of the methods and self-seeking
personality of K’ang Yu-wei, advising the Emperor that, while
possibly fit for an Under-Secretaryship, he was quite unfitted for any
high post of responsibility. When matters first approached a crisis, it
was by his advice that the Emperor directed K’ang to proceed to
Shanghai for the organisation of the Press Bureau scheme. Sun,
peace-loving and prudent, hoped thereby to find an outlet for K’ang
Yu-wei’s patriotic activities while leaving the Manchu dovecots
unfluttered. Later, after the coup d’état, being above all things
orthodox and a stickler for harmonious observance of precedents, he
deplored the harsh treatment and humiliation inflicted upon the
Emperor. It is reported of him that on one occasion at audience he
broke down completely, and with tears implored the Empress
Dowager not to allow her mind to be poisoned against His Majesty,
but without effect.
Upon the nomination of the Heir Apparent, in 1900, which he, like
many others, regarded as the Emperor’s death sentence, he sent in
a strongly worded Memorial against this step, and subsequently
denounced it at a meeting of the Grand Council. Thereafter, his
protests proving ineffective, he resigned all his offices, but remained
at the capital in retirement, watching events. At the commencement
of the Boxer crisis, unable to contain his feelings, he sent in a
Memorial through the Censorate denouncing the rabid reactionary
Hsü T’ung, whom he described as “the friend of traitors, who would
bring the State to ruin if further confidence were placed in him.”
Throughout his career he displayed the courage of his convictions,
which, judged by the common standard of Chinese officialdom, were
conspicuously honest. He was a man of that Spartan type of private
life which one finds not infrequently associated with the higher
branches of Chinese scholarship and Confucian philosophy; it was
his boast that he never employed a secretary, but wrote out all his
correspondence and Memorials with his own hand.
A pleasing illustration of his character is the following: He was
seated one day in his shabby old cart, and driving down the main
street to his home, when his driver collided with the vehicle of a well-
known Censor, named Chao. The police came up to make enquiries
and administer street-justice, but learning that one cart belonged to
the Grand Secretary Sun, they told his driver to proceed. The
Censor, justly indignant at such servility, wrote a note to Sun in which
he said: “The Grand Secretary enjoys, no doubt, great prestige, but
even he cannot lightly disregard the power of the Censorate.” Sun,
on receiving this note, proceeded at once on foot in full official dress
to the Censor’s house, and upon being informed that he was not at
home, prostrated himself before the servant, saying: “The nation is
indeed to be congratulated upon possessing a virtuous Censor.”
Chao, not to be outdone in generosity, proceeded in his turn to the
residence of the Grand Secretary, intending to return the
compliment, but Sun declined to allow him to apologise in any way.
TUAN FANG
In 1898, Tuan Fang was a Secretary of the Board of Works; his
rapid promotion after that date was chiefly due to the patronage of
his friend Jung Lu. For a Manchu, he is remarkably progressive and
liberal in his views.
In 1900, he was Acting-Governor of Shensi. As the Boxer
movement spread and increased in violence, and as the fears of
Jung Lu led him to take an increasingly decided line of action against
them, Tuan Fang, acting upon his advice, followed suit. In spite of
the fact that at the time of the coup d’état he had adroitly saved
himself from clear identification with the reformers and had penned a
classical composition in praise of filial piety, which was commonly
regarded as a veiled reproof to the Emperor for not yielding implicit
obedience to the Old Buddha, he had never enjoyed any special
marks of favour at the latter’s hands, nor been received into that
confidential friendliness with which she frequently honoured her
favourites.
In his private life, as in his administration, Tuan Fang has always
recognised the changing conditions of his country and endeavoured
to adapt himself to the needs of the time; he was one of the first
among the Manchus to send his sons abroad for their education. His
sympathies were at first unmistakably with K’ang Yu-wei and his
fellow reformers, but he withdrew from them because of the anti-
dynastic nature of their movement, of which he naturally
disapproved.
As Acting-Governor of Shensi, in July, 1900, he clearly realised
the serious nature of the situation and the dangers that must arise
from the success of the Boxer movement, and he therefore issued
two Proclamations to the province, in which he earnestly warned the
people to abstain from acts of violence. These documents were
undoubtedly the means of saving the lives of many missionaries and
other foreigners isolated in the interior. In the first a curious passage
occurs, wherein, after denouncing the Boxers, he said:
After prophesying for them the same fate which overtook the
Mahomedan rebels and those of the Taiping insurrection, he
delivered himself of advice to the people which, while calculated to
prevent the slaughter of foreigners, would preserve his reputation for
patriotism. It is well, now that Tuan Fang has fallen upon evil days, to
remember the good work he did in a very difficult position. His
Proclamation ran as follows:—
“If the rain has not fallen upon your barren fields,” he said,
“if the demon of drought threatens to harass you, be sure that
it is because you have gone astray, led by false rumours, and
have committed deeds of violence. Repent now and return to
your peaceful ways, and the rains will assuredly fall. Behold
the ruin which has come upon the provinces of Chihli and
Shantung; it is to save you from their fate that I now warn you.
Are we not all alike subjects of the great Manchu Dynasty,
and shall we not acquit ourselves like men in the service of
the State? If there were any chance of this province being
invaded by the enemy, you would naturally sacrifice your lives
and property to repel him, as a matter of simple patriotism.
But if, in a sudden access of madness, you set forth to
butcher a few helpless foreigners, you will in no wise benefit
the Empire, but will merely be raising fresh difficulties for the
Throne. For the time being, your own consciences will accuse
you of ignoble deeds, and later you will surely pay the penalty
with your lives and the ruin of your families. Surely, you men
of Shensi, enlightened and high-principled, will not fall so low
as this? There are, I know, among you some evil men who,
professing patriotic enmity to foreigners and Christians, wax
fat on foreign plunder. But the few missionary Chapels in this
province offer but meagre booty, and it is safe to predict that
those who begin by sacking them will certainly proceed next
to loot the houses of your wealthier citizens. From the burning
of foreigners’ homes, the conflagration will spread to your
own, and many innocent persons will share the fate of the
slaughtered Christians. The plunderers will escape with their
booty, and the foolish onlookers will pay the penalty of these
crimes. Is it not a well-known fact that every anti-Christian
outbreak invariably brings misery to the stupid innocent
people of the district concerned? Is not this a lamentable
thing? As for me, I care neither for praise nor blame; my only
object in preaching peace in Shensi is to save you, my
people, from dire ruin and destruction.”