Full Chapter The Complete Guide To Bird Photography Field Techniques For Birders and Nature Photographers 2Nd Edition Jeffrey Rich PDF
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Copyright © 2019 by Jeffrey Rich.
All rights reserved.
All photographs by the author unless otherwise noted.
Published by:
Amherst Media, Inc.
PO BOX 538
Buffalo, NY 14213
www.AmherstMedia.com
ISBN-13: 978-1-68203-359-3
Library of Congress Control Number: 2018939204
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored, or transmitted in any form or by any
means, electronic, mechanical, photocopied, recorded or otherwise, without prior written
consent from the publisher.
Notice of Disclaimer: The information contained in this book is based on the author’s
experience and opinions. The author and publisher will not be held liable for the use or
misuse of the information in this book.
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CONTENTS
2. Basic Techniques
3. Lighting
4. Composition
6. Finding Birds
7. Ethics
Here I am in the flowers, loving life. I lay down in a small impression where there were no
flowers. No flowers were harmed in the process.
I am always on the lookout for beautiful images, even a scenic. But when a bird shows up,
even better.
1. TOOLS OF THE TRADE
Quality gear will help you create top-notch images. Mallard wing-flapping.
Cameras
Consider your goals regarding the images you will create before you
choose a camera. Do you want to post your bird photos online,
publish them in magazines, share them with friends and family, use
them to teach the world, or . . .? The camera is only a tool that
determines the quality of the image. You can capture wonderful bird
images with an automatic camera or a smartphone. Other factors to
consider when choosing a camera are the price you can afford and
the accessories that the camera can utilize.
If you are a birder or a photographer who simply wants to
capture identification shots of birds, a spotting scope with a camera
attached might be best for your needs. (We’ll revisit this topic in
chapter 5.) Many spotting scopes today have adapters that cameras
can mount to. Even a PhD (push here, dummy!) camera (i.e., a fully
automatic, one-button camera) can be coupled with a scope for
good ID shots.
For professional-quality bird imagery, I recommend a high-end
DSLR. These cameras produce high-quality image files with great
resolution. These features allow you to crop your files for enhanced
compositions without much loss in quality. Be ready to re-mortgage
your house—a top-of-the-line DSLR costs over $5000! The main two
brands used by professional bird photographers are Nikon and
Canon, but by no means are you limited to cameras from these
manufacturers. There are many choices, and there is a camera for
every need. My camera bag is full of Nikon gear, and my bodies are
the newest professional DSLRs. Mirorless cameras are making an
impression, too.
Technology is always changing. As of this writing, I recommend
that those serious about producing artful bird photographs opt for a
DSLR with continuous capture (motor-drive capabilities), a high-
quality sensor with great quality at high ISOs (1600 and higher), and
a fast-focusing motor for getting the action stopped and sharp.
Selecting a camera that is the same brand a close friend uses would
be beneficial also, as you can learn together and share equipment.
My “paintbrush.” I took my first nature photos in 6th grade.
Lenses
Lenses are the most important part of your toolkit. Long lenses are
heavy, but they are necessary for photographing birds. Go with as
long a lens as you can comfortably carry, manipulate, and afford. If
you aren’t sure what works for you, take a trip to your local camera
store and try out some long lenses. Can you put the lens on your
tripod with ease, or is it too heavy? Can you comfortably carry it
over your shoulder, or is it too cumbersome? Bigger is often better,
but don’t get a lens that is too big for you to use comfortably. If you
do, you won’t use it. Most professionals work with a 500mm or
600mm lens. I prefer the 500mm only because it is much lighter and
easier for me to manage, carry, and use. My chiropractor is happier,
too. The high-quality 400mm will work, but I wouldn’t go any
smaller than 400mm. Paying the price for the highest-quality lens in
the beginning is better than buying an off-brand lens and being
unhappy with the quality.
Bird photographers working with handheld cameras along the boardwalk at Wakodahatchee
Wetlands, Florida.
Shorter focal length lenses give you the chance to shoot pictures
that show the animal in its habitat and surroundings—what I call a
wildlife scenic. One of my favorite bird lenses is my wide-angle zoom
lens. If I can get close enough and the scenery is wonderful, there is
nothing better than a wide-angle bird scenic.
On the other hand, there are perks to using a lens longer than
400mm. A long focal length gives you more working distance from
the bird, which helps relax your subject. Wildlife and people have a
fight-or-flight distance. If you get too close, the subject will
disappear.
A photograph that shows a beautiful setting and includes an
animal can be an award-winner. I use a 12–24mm Nikon zoom for
my wide-angle work. Having the zoom capability allows me to crop
to perfection. I frequently shoot wildlife scenics with my other
lenses, too. When I find a beautiful setting, I try to figure out how to
get a bird in the shot.
When you acquire more lenses, continue practicing. Shoot a
flower pot with all your lenses and see how the image changes.
Photograph your pet and other moving subjects. Put a bird feeder
out, make photographs, and get to know your equipment. Take the
time to practice. You will be rewarded.
One of the highlights in my life is traveling with my kids. This Laysan Albatross on Midway
Island was very relaxed, as are all of the birds there. Alan used an 80–200mm lens and was
too close to focus.
The backdrop in Homer, Alaska, is spectacular. I wanted to make scenic images with the
Bald Eagles of the area.
This Black Oystercatcher nested in a very scenic spot, and I shot it remotely with the
camera on the ground while I was back in my car. The bird relaxed quickly with just my
camera there.
Eared Grebe family photographed with my 1.4X teleconverter on my 500mm lens, making it
a 700mm. Can you see any loss in sharpness?
Teleconverters
Many birds are small, and it seems photographers always want to
get closer. A teleconverter is a lightweight and affordable way to
achieve a higher magnification.
When shopping for a teleconverter, look for one made by the
manufacturer of the lens and camera you have. The top camera
companies offer remarkable sharpness at a price that is very
affordable (about $500) compared to the super telephoto lenses. My
$8000 500mm Nikon lens becomes an $8500 700mm lens with the
1.4X converter. You can see how this helps you get “closer” to your
subject, with more magnification at an affordable price. The Nikon
600mm lens is $9500, but with a 1.4X teleconverter, it would
become a $10,000 840mm lens.
I used my PK-13 extension tube to get even closer to these Barn Swallow fledglings.
Flash
Bird photography often requires adding your own light, and a good
flash is a must. A lot can be done with one flash on-camera.
Get a flash with TTL capabilities and use it to add fill flash when
the sun is your main light source. Using fill flash will lighten shadow
areas and add a catchlight in the bird’s eye. That sparkle in the
subject’s eye is important to give life and pop to your image. Adding
a flash extender (Fresnel lens) to the front of your flash will narrow
the beam of light and send it out farther, which is often where the
bird is. Also, shooting rapid fire (i.e., in continuous mode) is
extremely important in action and wildlife photography, and the flash
extender helps speed up the recycle time of the flash. I use the
Better Beamer by Visual Echoes. Be sure to get the model that is
designed for your specific flash.
Late-morning photo, without fill, of Double-Crested Cormorant.
Window Mounts
Window mounts are useful when you use your vehicle as a blind.
There are many options on the market. For big glass, sturdiness is
important. I use the Groofwin mount from Leonard Lee Rue. It can
be used on the window, ground, and roof (hence the name). It is
versatile, stable, and needs a ballhead mounted on it. There are
many other window mounts, so do some research to find what will
work best for you.
My first mount was a 4×4-inch piece of foam that was the length
of my truck window. I would slice 2 inches into the foam and then
place the slit over my car door’s window, with the window rolled
most of the way down. The camera and lens would rest on top of
the foam. It was an inexpensive option, but I couldn’t let go of the
camera, or it would fall off. Mounts that tighten onto the window
itself don’t seem sturdy enough for a big lens, so I prefer one that
attaches to the door.
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up outside the Forbidden City on a large empty space adjoining the
Coal Hill. It was crowded with figures of attendant eunuchs and
handmaidens, and contained furniture and viands for the use of the
illustrious dead in the lower regions. A throne was placed in the
bows, and around it were kneeling effigies of attendant officials all
wearing their Robes of State as if the shade of Tzŭ Hsi were holding
an audience.
On the morning of the All Souls’ festival the Regent, in the name of
the Emperor, performed sacrifice before the barge, which was then
set alight and burnt, in order that the Old Buddha might enjoy the
use of it at the “yellow springs.” A day or two before her funeral,
hundreds of paper effigies of attendants, cavalry, camels and other
pack animals, were similarly burnt so that her spirit might enjoy all
the pomp to which she had been accustomed in life.
The following account of her funeral is reproduced from The Times
of 27th November, 1909:—
Marble Bridge over the Lake in the Western Park which surrounds the
Lake Palace.
Painted from life by Miss Catharine A. Carl for the St. Louis
Exposition, and now the property of the American Nation.