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The Science and
Technology of Chapatti and
Other Indian Flatbreads
The Science and
Technology of Chapatti and
Other Indian Flatbreads
By
Anamika Banerji
Laxmi Ananthanarayan
S.S. Lele
CRC Press
Taylor & Francis Group
6000 Broken Sound Parkway NW, Suite 300
Boca Raton, FL 33487-2742
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vii
viii Contents
xiii
Biography
Anamika Banerji holds a Ph.D. in food science, which she pursued at the Department
of Food Engineering and Technology, under the guidance of co-authors Prof. S.S.
Lele and Prof. Laxmi Ananthanarayan at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT),
Mumbai, Maharashtra, India. She has worked in the area of fatbreads for fve years
and has four international research publications. She has worked in areas like inhibi-
tion of enzymatic browning in stored multigrain dough, improvement of rheological
properties of dough, nutritional improvement of chapatti by fortifcation, inhibition
of staling and quality improvement of chapatti by use of enzyme-active germinated
wheat four, preservation of ready-to-cook (RTC) and ready-to-eat (RTE) naan and
development of nutritious, legume and vegetable–based premixes for fatbreads. She
graduated (B.Sc.) in Biotechnology in 2010 and completed post-graduation (M.Sc.)
in Food Science and Nutrition in 2012. Before joining the Ph.D. programme at ICT,
she briefy (one year) worked as food production co-ordinator at a well-known Indian
health and ftness company.
Prof. S.S. Lele, Director of ICT Marathwada Campus, Jalna, is a dynamic personality
with an exceptional career in research as well as academic administration. She is
well known for her outstanding contribution to the feld of food technology–engi-
neering for the last four decades. She has successfully handled sponsored projects
worth crores and is actively involved in research and translation. Prof. Lele has moti-
vated and guided farmers, students and youth with entrepreneurial aspirations in
setting up small-scale food processing units and minimising post-harvest losses. She
has been a guiding light for the conception and successful operation of several food
processing start-ups working on vegetable dehydration, retort processing (JustsipTM
and JusteatTM brands) and wine making from underutilised tropical fruits (FruitineR
brand). Prof. Lele has published over 100 international papers in refereed journals,
has authored 5 book chapters, 3 books and has 2 patents granted to her credit. She
has a keen interest in popularising science and developing scientifc temper which
she has achieved to a great extent by making short flms, writing books in regional
language and by giving interviews.
xv
xvi Biography
Prof. Lele has won several national and international awards, the recent ones being
the “Association of Food Scientists and Technologists (India)” Fellow Award (2017),
VASVIK (2017) Award in the category of Industrial Research Award for Women
Scientists, “Unch Maaza Zoka” Zee Marathi National Award (2016) for outstand-
ing contributions to the feld of fruit and vegetable processing in Maharashtra and
UDCT Alumni Association’s distinguished alumni award (2015) in academics. After
spending nearly a decade in the industry, she joined as Lecturer in ICT (formerly
UDCT) in 1986 and rose the ladder to be Professor of Biochemical Engineering.
After coordinating Bioprocess Technology Master’s programme for four years, she
took charge as the Head of Department of Food Engineering & Technology (Nov.
1, 2008, to July 31, 2012) and later worked as Controller of Examinations (August 1,
2012, to July 28, 2014). Later she was appointed as Registrar (July 29, 2014) and is
currently Director of ICT Marathwada Campus, Jalna.
1 Introduction to
Indian fatbreads
1
2 The Science and Technology of Indian Flatbreads
TABLE 1.1
World’s popular fatbreads
Item Name of
Type of four No. fatbread Country Characteristics
Wheat four a. Sangak Iran • leavened, single layered
(whole/refned) • sourdough based
• 70–80 cm long, 40–50 cm wide and
3–5 mm thick
• blisters on top and bottom crust
• poppy or sesame seeds usually
sprinkled on top crust
b. Taftoon/ Iran • leavened, single layered
Tanoor • round or oval shaped
• 40–50 cm long, 40–50 cm wide and
2 mm thick
• reddish brown crust
c. Pita Middle east • leavened, two layered
countries • circular
• 15 cm wide and 5–7 mm thick
• puffed at high temperatures during
baking to separate two layers
forming a “pocket”, varieties
without pockets are also available
• pockets can be flled with different
stuffng
d. Lavas Turkey • leavened, single layered
• elliptical shaped
• 20–30 cm long, 10–20 cm wide,
and 3–5 mm thick
e. Pide Turkey • leavened, single layered
• circular shaped
• 20–25 cm wide, 1.5–2 cm thick
f. Yufka Turkey • unleavened, single layered
• circular, thin
• cream coloured
• 40–50 cm wide, 1–2 mm thick
g. Focaccia/ Italy • leavened, single layered
boboli • circular
• 20 cm wide and 2 cm thick
• fatbread with various toppings;
rosemary herb is popularly used to
favour this bread
h. Chapatti India • unleavened, single layered
• thin, circular
• 15 cm wide and 2 mm thick
(Continued )
Introduction to Indian fatbreads 3
Gocmen, Inkaya and Aydin (2009), Padua and Maroun (1984) and Pasqualone (2018)
afternoon tea and snacks are also common. In urban population, dinner is a heavy
meal which the whole family enjoys together after returning home from work.
Traditionally, the Indian meal is very elaborate in nature; there is representation
from different food groups (cereals, pulses, vegetables, milk products, fsh/meat/
eggs) in the Indian platter. Side dishes and taste makers such as pickles, salads and
papads are a must. Figure 1.1 is a pictorial depiction of a typical traditional Indian
vegetarian meal called “thali” which translates to “platter” in English.
FIGURE 1.1 Traditional Indian vegetarian meal comprising of chapatti, rice, two types of
vegetable preparations, dal (lentil), curd, pickle and papad (grain-based cracker).
4 The Science and Technology of Indian Flatbreads
Modern Indians in urban areas, due to lack of time, energy and, in several
instances, lack of culinary skills, have simpler meals typically comprising of rice/
fatbread, lentil and vegetable/meat curry cooked with spices. Although American,
European and Oriental foods have gained tremendous popularity and have found a
huge market in urban India, their consumption is restricted to weekends and special
occasions. Indians by and large adhere to their traditional foods for daily meals. The
choice of grains, vegetables, spices, cooking oil and even style of cooking Indian
food varies from region to region depending on the native crops.
Rice and fatbread are staples eaten along with other dishes. An Indian meal in
any part of the country is incomplete without rice or fatbread. These carbohydrate-
rich staples constitute the major source of energy in the diet and are consumed in
fairly liberal amounts by the population.
TABLE 1.2
Indian fatbreads
Type of Item Name of
four No. fatbread Region Characteristics
Wheat four a. Chapatti/ All over • unleavened
(whole/ roti/Phulka India • circular, thin
refned) • baked on a hot iron plate (tawa) followed
by puffng on a direct fame
• brown spots on surface
• 15 cm wide, 2 mm thick
b. Poori All over • unleavened
India • circular
• deep fried, puffs during frying
• 5 cm wide, 2 mm thick
c. Roomali North and • unleavened
roti Central • circular, thin
India • large diameter (30 cm), 1–1.5 mm thick,
can be folded like a handkerchief (roomal),
so-called roomali roti
• requires tremendous skill in preparation
• baked on an inverted hot griddle (convex
surface)
• tender and delicious
d. Tandoori North India • unleavened, single layered
Roti • baked in clay oven “tandoor”
• 15 cm wide, 3 mm thick
e. Naan North India • leavened, single layered
• drop shaped
• baked in tandoor
• 17 cm long, 12 cm wide, 3 mm thick
• many variants prepared including one with
egg
f. Parotta South India • unleavened, multilayered
• circular
• 15 cm wide, 2 mm thick
• shallow fried
• eggs and sugar are optional ingredients
• cream colour, soft pliable texture
• slightly oily
g. Paratha North India • unleavened
(plain) • single or multilayered; could be triangular
with 4 layers/square with 2 layers/round or
square with spiral layers
• 15 cm wide, 2–3 mm thick
• shallow fried on hot griddle
• variants with stuffng are popular
(Continued )
6 The Science and Technology of Indian Flatbreads
FIGURE 1.2 Popular Indian fatbreads (a) chapatti, (b) paratha, (c) laccha paratha, (d)
missi roti, (e) naan, (f) kulcha, (g) roomali roti, (h) tandoori roti, (i) puranpoli and (j) thepla.
western India. Bhakri also happens to be the food of lower-income groups in western
rural India and is often eaten with raw onion and thecha (spicy condiment made of
crushed green chillies, garlic, peanuts). The deep fried fatbread called puri is usu-
ally teamed with a potato gravy or a chickpea curry. Malabar parotta of south India
is relished with spicy coconut-based curry of vegetables or meat. Puran poli (sweet
fatbread of Maharashtra) is savoured with milk and thepla (fatbread of Gujrat) is
enjoyed with pickles. Indian cities are witnessing an increasing popularity and a
concomitant surge in the sale of wraps/frankies/rolls by street vendors. Flatbreads
Introduction to Indian fatbreads 9
are the main component of these foods. A fatbread is shallow-fried or baked on a hot
griddle, and a liberal serving of a spicy stuffng (vegetables/meat) along with one or
more sauces and garnishing is spread along the diameter of the bread, and then the
fatbread is wrapped or rolled around the stuffng. This is an easy-to-carry, easy-to-
eat approach by which a person can consume fatbread and vegetable/meat on the go.
Chapatti, paratha and puri are fatbreads that are routinely prepared in Indian
households. There are many Indian fatbreads (roomali roti, tandoori roti, naan,
kulcha) which are very popular but are rarely prepared at a domestic level. This is
because their preparation requires special skills and certain specifc equipment like
a clay oven (tandoor). These fatbreads are readily available in Indian restaurants.
People dining out like to indulge in a variety of such speciality fatbreads, which are
also popularly served in a basket of assorted Indian breads called “roti ki tokri”. In
recent times, the changing food culture of young urban Indians with busy lifestyles
has led to the emergence of newer food-catering options with online ordering and
home delivery. This enables consumers to order freshly baked fatbreads of their
choice at meal time. The popularity and demand for Indian fatbreads is also found
to be on the rise in western countries, where Indian expatriates as well as locals like
to order fatbreads in Indian restaurants or prefer to pick up frozen, heat-and-eat ver-
sions of the fatbreads from the supermarket.
1.3.1 CHAPATTI
Chapatti is the most widely consumed Indian fatbread and can be said to be the
Indian counterpart of the western pan bread. This staple bread is unique and has its
own defning characteristics; unlike bread, chapatti preparation does not involve
yeast addition and fermentation. It is a whole wheat four–based, unleavened fat-
bread baked on a hot griddle (tawa) followed by puffng on a direct fame. It is
savoured for its aroma and soft texture. Chapattis are prepared in households, can-
teens and restaurants twice a day for lunch and dinner. Their tendency to stale rapidly
on storage necessitates their preparation before every meal. Chapattis are usually
eaten with spicy accompaniments such as lentils (dal), cooked vegetables (sabji) and
condiments (chutni). One simple trick used traditionally to increase shelf life is to
reduce the moisture content, converting chapatti into khakra, a crispy dehydrated,
brittle product.
1.3.2 NAAN
Naan is a popular fatbread which holds a special place in cuisines of Central and
South Asia. This leavened fatbread, typically made of refned wheat four (maida), is
savoured for its pleasing aroma, taste and texture. It is leavened using yeast or curd and
is traditionally baked in a clay oven called tandoor. In India, it was earlier recognised
as a North Indian delicacy but is now enjoyed by people all over the country. However
its consumption is limited to special occasions, when it is purchased from restaurants
and food joints. There are two reasons for this: frst, naan preparation requires some
skill and involves the use of a tandoor; second, naan is not perceived to be very healthy
due to the lack of fbre in its major ingredient—maida (refned four from wheat).
10 The Science and Technology of Indian Flatbreads
REFERENCES
Gocmen, D., A.N. Inkaya, and E. Aydin. 2009. “Flatbreads.” Bulgarian Journal of
Agricultural Science 15(4): 298–306.
Mir, Mohammad Maqbool, Mudassir Ahmad Bhat, Shabir Ahmad Mir, Manzoor Ahmad
Shah, Haroon Rashid Naik, and Muzammil Habib Wani. 2014. “Indian Flat Breads: A
Review.” Food and Nutrition Sciences 5(6): 549–61. doi:10.4236/fns.2014.56065.
Padua, M.R. de, and H. Padua Maroun. 1984. “Rhelogical Behavior of Venezuelan Arepa
Dough from Precooked Corn Flour.” Cereal Chemistry 61(1): 37–41.
Parimala, K.R., and M.L. Sudha. 2015. “Wheat-Based Traditional Flat Breads of India.”
Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition 55(1): 67–81. doi:10.1080/10408398.
2011.647121.
Pasqualone, Antonella. 2018. “Traditional Flat Breads Spread from the Fertile Crescent:
Production Process and History of Baking Systems.” Journal of Ethnic Foods 5(1):
10–19. doi:10.1016/j.jef.2018.02.002.
2 Preparation of chapatti,
other fatbreads and
ingredients used
2.1 INTRODUCTION
Chapatti being a staple food is usually cooked fresh for every meal. It is prepared
from whole wheat four (atta), which is obtained from grinding wheat in a local stone
mill (called chakki). While kneading the dough from wheat four with the addition of
water, a gluten network is formed resulting in high viscoelasticity which facilitates
hand rolling into a sheet. The sheet is frst baked on a heated griddle (tawa) and
then puffed on a live fame to produce a chapatti. Various other fatbreads are also
consumed in India, among which paratha and naan are the most popular. These
fatbreads are made from atta or refned wheat four (maida) with variations in the
method of preparation. Maida is obtained by mechanical removal of bran and germ
from whole wheat grains, resulting in a four with lower fbre content and a whitish
appearance compared to atta.
The choice of wheat used in milling four for making fatbreads is crucial since the
variety of wheat, hardness of wheat and its constituents, such as gluten (protein), starch
and non-starch polysaccharides (NSPs), infuence the quality of the end product. The
four is stored in households for a few weeks in closed containers; however, nowadays
readymade ‘atta’ is available in urban markets with global players and Indian compa-
nies making a good impact. Apart from four, some other ingredients such as water,
oil, salt, sugar and baking soda are used in preparation of fatbreads. Each of these
ingredients infuences one or more quality parameters of these fatbreads.
11
12 The Science and Technology of Indian Flatbreads
smooth surface of the rolling board to form a circular shape of about 15 cm diameter
and 2 mm thickness. During rolling, shear is applied in such a manner that the dough
sheet gradually starts rotating by itself and expands radially into a circular form. If
required, some four may be dusted over the partially rolled sheet to facilitate smooth
rolling. This is where the art of making a good chapatti lies. Roti/chapatti making
machine which has gained popularity uses the principle of pressing to fatten the dough
into a circle, and hence it does not make an ideal, traditional chapatti.
The circular sheet of dough is cooked on a preheated griddle on both sides for a
short time. It is then puffed by heating directly over the burner fame on both sides
for a few seconds. The cooked chapatti is allowed to cool and small amount of ghee
may be applied over one surface. The chapattis are stacked over one another and the
stack is stored in a container till consumption. The steps involved in chapatti making
are explained pictorially in Figure 2.1.
FIGURE 2.1 Steps in chapatti making. (a) Set-up for chapatti making. (b) Dough ball
dusted with four and placed on rolling board. (c): Rolling dough into sheet. (d): Baking one
side of dough sheet on hot griddle and turning it to the other side. (e) Baking the other side of
dough sheet. (f) Puffng of chapatti on both sides directly over a fame.
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The Project Gutenberg eBook of Recent
discussions on the abolition of patents for
inventions in the United Kingdom, France,
Germany, and the Netherlands
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you are located before using this eBook.
Compiler: R. A. Macfie
Language: English
LONDON:
LONGMANS, GREEN, READER, AND DYER.
1869.
“La legislation des brevets d’invention peut avoir l’effet d’entraver
notre commerce d’exportation, et de priver l’industrie nationale de
débouches utiles.... Un brevet est un privilége et un monopole. Pour
que le monopole puisse être reconnu par la loi, il est indispensable
qu’il repose sur un droit certain ou sur une utilité publique
parfaitement établie. Le peu qui précède suffit ce me semble a
démontre que l’utilité publique n’existe pas.... Le brevet d’invention
a-t-il pour base un droit positif? Il semble pourtant que non....
“Telles sont les réflexions qui sont venues à un certain nombre
d’hommes éclairés depuis quelque années et qui ont l’assentiment
d’un bon nombre d’hommes des plus notables parmi les chefs
d’industrie. Elles ont de l’écho dans touts les pays civilisés, et en
Angleterre pour le moins autant qu’en France—(1) Elles ne tendent
à rien moins qu’à renverser le système même des brevets
d’invention, sauf à rémunérer par une dotation spéciale tout homme
ingénieux qui serait reconnu, après un certain temps d’expérience,
avoir rendu à la société un service signalé par quelque découverte.
C’est ainsi qu’il a été procédé en France à l’égard des inventeurs de
la photographie.”—From the Introduction to the “Rapports du Jury
International de l’Exposition 1862, publies sous la direction de M.
Michel Chevalier, President de la Section Française.”
While in the hands of the printer, fresh matter has, through the
kindness of honoured fellow-workers in the cause, reached me
almost daily, part of which is added. The reader will find in this
accession to the testimonies on behalf of freedom of industry,
besides some new arguments, such a striking concurrence and
oneness in the principles enunciated, and even in the illustrations
made use of, as, coming from various quarters independently, may
fairly be regarded as presumptive proof of their accuracy.
The Government has been so good as agree to produce, in
conformity with a request from Parliament, any documents in
possession of the Foreign-office which show the reasons or motives
of the Prussian and Dutch Governments for proposing the abolition
of Patents in Germany and the Netherlands. The adoption in the
latter country of abolition pure and simple, without (so far as I can
see) the slightest indication of a substitute, may well reconcile
professional inventors and all who unite with them to the propositions
with which I close my “speech.” Now that the continental stones are
dropping out of the arch which forms the System of Patents, the rest
cannot long keep their place. The antiquated fabric may be expected
to tumble. For public safety, the sooner Parliament and all concerned
set themselves to take it down, the better.
A communication from Professor Thorold Rogers, and remarks on
a recent Review, are given herewith, the former on account of its
value as a vindication of economic truth and justice, the latter by way
of correcting the reviewer’s accidental mistakes.
The Daily News, in a leading article on the 27th July, having
attached importance altogether undue to a small meeting called
under peculiar circumstances on the 24th, which was supposed to
express opinions and wishes of artisans and operatives,[1] I
addressed letters to that influential paper, which will be found in its
issues of the 29th, 30th, and 31st. Of course Sir Roundell Palmer,
who did the promoter of the meeting the honour to take the chair,
had not, any more than myself, the smallest connexion with its
origination and arrangements.
Appended are suggestions and information regarding Copyright,
which came in my way while in the press about Patent-right, and
which may be useful if international negotiations are contemplated
for one or other or both of these kindred subjects.
I hope imperfections of translation, which I regret, and errors of the
press, for which I take blame without correcting them, will be
indulgently pardoned, as well as faults entirely my own in the
unaccustomed part of advocate and compiler.
July 31.
What I wrote will be found below, page 241. My argument is, that
the subjects of Copyright being tangible can be identified as the
author’s production, and nobody else’s; and that the subjects of
Patent-right being modes or plans, belong to the region of ideas
which may easily occur to anybody besides the first inventor.
Again: the reviewer says of Lord Stanley:—
And
Again, then, we ask for proofs of the allegation that six men
are often on the track of the self-same invention.
And, elsewhere,
Yet, believing himself the friend of the public, in spite of all the
strong arguments against his views and the little he himself adduces
for them, he very complacently tells us—
The reviewer can hardly have consulted any practical man when
he pronounces it—