Shirt Pattern Making

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Shirt pattern making for men. Modeling Lesson: Men's Shirt


Pattern

Date of writing:02.05.2019
Reading time:24 minutes
We looked at how to make a men's shirt collar pattern, and I promised to model a shirt
pattern soon. I wanted to postpone this lesson. next week , but I found a very beautiful

model and I want to share it with you right away 🙂

today we have the pattern of a men's shirt fitted !

But first, a little break 😉 I came across a very good topic while surfing the
internet. interesting tradition ... Did you know that wedding champagne is specially
ordered from decoupage masters, tied with satin ribbon and opened only on wedding

anniversaries or the birth of the first child? Very original, isn't it? 🙂

Pattern of a fitted men's shirt

And now let's move on to the model that I am satisfied with:

This model is from the LaRedoute website, a trendy and modern collection called
"Taillissime". ", which is characterized by freedom of movement and looseness. This is
high French fashion! Where elegance, grace and romance can be combined in an
unimaginable way.
I love high quality things that you immediately notice. It seems like nothing special but

still there is something that catches you... 🙂

Pattern of a fitted men's shirt - features:

1. fitted silhouette;
2. standing collar;
3. long sleeves with cuffs.
Unfortunately, there is no photo of the model on the back. But it looks the same as in the
drawing (screenshot of the pattern from my computer at the end of the article): a small
coquette and no folds.

Now let's move on to step: "creating a men's shirt pattern" .

Creating a men's shirt pattern

Here are a few basic patterns for modeling this elegant shirt that we created in previous
lessons, namely:

how to make a men's shirt pattern

Download the lesson: how to make a men's shirt pattern ? on your computer, you can

There is no better gift for a man than a shirt made by women! And in order for Vasilisa
the Beautiful to be like in a fairy tale, it is not necessary to know magic tricks, it is
enough to clearly follow these instructions.

How to sew a shirt? There is nothing easier!


To create a pattern drawing for a top men's shirt, you need to take the following
measurements:
1. Shirt length 75-80 centimeters
2. Shoulder length 16cm
3. Half neck circumference -19.5 cm
4. Chest circumference - 48 cm
5. Sleeve length - 60 cm
Creating a pattern drawing

Shirt width. The lines of the rectangle AB and DC are equal to 60 centimeters (the
semicircle of the chest according to the dimensions plus 12 centimeters for all sizes): 48
+ 12 = 60.

IMPORTANT! If you want to sew a shirt, the increase in half circumference of the
chest should be 5.5 cm. Accordingly, all increases (for the width of the back, armrest
and front of the shirt) are calculated according to this increase.

Shirt length. The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to 75-80 centimeters - the
length of the shirt according to measure.
Armhole depth. From point A, 25 centimeters are placed, and point G is set (1/3 of the
semicircle of the chest, according to the measurement, plus 9 centimeters for all sizes):
48: 3 + 9 = 25.
From point G to the right, to the intersection with the BC line, draw a straight line,
intersection point is indicated by the letter G1.
For size 52 and above, the armhole depth is not taken more than 26 centimeters.

Rear width. Reach 23 centimeters to the right from the G point and put the G2 point (1/3
of the chest semicircle according to the measurement plus 7 centimeters for all sizes): 48:
3 + 7 = 23. From point G2 to the intersection with the AB line, make an upward straight
line is drawn and point P is determined.

Armhole width. Placed 14 centimeters to the right from point G2 and set point G3 (1/4
of the semicircle of the chest according to the measurement plus 2 centimeters for all
sizes): 48: 4 + 2 = 14. From
point G3 to the intersection with the AB line, an upward straight line is drawn and the
point P1 is determined.

Side line. The width of the armhole G2G3 is divided in half, the dividing point is
indicated by the letter G4. A straight line is lowered from point G4 to the intersection
with the DC line. The intersection point is marked with the letter H.
Side slit. It is laid 12 centimeters upwards from the H point.
Auxiliary points of the shoulder and armholes. The PG2 and P1G3 lines are divided into
three equal parts. Subdivision points are denoted by the letters P2 and P3.

making the back of a shirt

Neckline. From point A, 7 centimeters are laid to the right (1/3 of the semicircle of the
neck in size plus 0.5 centimeters for all dimensions): 19.5: 3 + 0.5 = 7.
From point 7, lie 3 centimeters.

Shoulder slope. Reach down 3 centimeters from point P.

Shoulder line. From point 3 (neck) to point 3 (shoulder slope) draw a shoulder line 18
centimeters long (shoulder length by measurement plus 2 centimeters for all sizes): 16 +
2 = 18.

armhole line. The points P2 and G4 are connected by a dotted line divided in half and
placed 2 centimeters from the dividing point to the dotted line P2G4 at a right angle. The
armhole line is drawn from points 18, P2, 2, G4.
Back coquette. It extends 8 centimeters from point A. A straight line is drawn from point
8 to the right and the intersection point with the armhole line is denoted by the letter
K. Then 1 centimeter is laid from point K and connected with a straight line to the
coquette line.

Addition of folding. Tilt and tie 4 centimeters to the left from points 8 and D.
Creating the front of the shirt

Auxiliary neckline and shoulder line. Reach 24 centimeters upwards from point G1 and
put a point W (1/2 of the semicircle of the chest according to measurement): 48: 2 \u003d
24. From
point W, draw a straight line of arbitrary length to the left.

Neckline. It extends 7 centimeters to the left from the W point (1/3 of the semicircle of
the neck according to the measurement plus 0.5 centimeters for all dimensions): 19.5: 3 +
0.5 = 7.
It is then also tilted 7 cm down from the W point. Point 7 is connected by a dotted line
divided in half and tiled 7 centimeters from point W along the dividing point of the dotted
line. The points 7, 7 and 7 are connected by a concave line.

Shoulder line. Point 7 is connected by a dotted line with the upper dividing point of the
PG2 line. Then, from point 7 to the left, 18 centimeters are laid along the dotted line
(shoulder length plus 2 centimeters for all sizes, according to the measure): 16 + 2 = 18.

armhole line. The points Pz and G4 are connected by a half-divided dotted line and
placed 2 centimeters at right angles from the dividing point to the dotted line. The
armhole line is drawn from points 18, P3, 2, G4.

Shirt plaque. From point 7 and point C (middle of the neckline), 2 cm are laid left and
right, the resulting points are combined.

Allowance for the edge of the bar. Separate 4 cm from point E to the right, point
E1. Draw a line parallel to the stick.

Making a sleeve pattern drawing for a men's shirt.


Draw the rectangle ABCD.

arm width. The lines of the rectangle AB and DC are equal to 48 centimeters (semicircle
of the chest according to the measure).

arm length. Lines AD and BC are equal to 56 centimeters (measured sleeve length
minus 4 centimeters - half the width of the cuff) 60-4 = 56.
Arm height. Tilt from point A 10 centimeters and put point P (1/6 of the semicircle of the
chest according to the measurement, plus 2 centimeters for all sizes): 48: 6 + 2 = 10.
From point P to the right, a straight line is drawn to the intersection with the line BC, The
intersection point is indicated by the letter P1.

arm line. The AB line divides in two, and the dividing point is indicated by the letter O,
where the straight line is reduced to the intersection with the DC line and is denoted by
the letter H. The P and O points are connected in a dotted manner. line, bisected, and
place 1.5 centimeters upwards at right angles from the dividing point to the dashed
line. Then the points O and P1 are connected by a dotted line and divide it into three
equal parts. From the upper point of the partition is laid 1 centimeter, from the bottom -
0.5 centimeters. The armhole line is drawn from the points P, 1.5, O, 1, the line OP1 from
the midpoint of the division, 0.5, P1.
Side lines of the arm. From point D to the right and from point C to the left, 6
centimeters are laid (1/8 of the semicircle of the chest according to the size): 48: 8 = 6.
The points P and 6 and P1 and 6 are connected.

Arm fixing slot. The distance from point 6 (left) to point H is bisected and extends from
the dividing point 2 centimeters to the left and then 10-12 centimeters.

Bottom plate for sleeve closure. The length of the strap is 11 centimeters (length of the
slit for the arm fastener plus 1 centimeter margin): 10 + 1 = 11. The width of the strap is
3 centimeters.

Top plate for sleeve closure. The length of the belt is 14 centimeters (the length of the
cut for the fastener of the sleeve plus 4 centimeters for the design of the cloak): 10 + 4 =
14. The width of the bar is 5 centimeters.
How to sew a curly strap sleeve? Detailed instructions refer to the "Basic operations"
section "How to sew a curly strap sleeve."

IMPORTANT! In addition, to embroider the slats of the shirt on the shelves, it is


necessary to cut 2 parts 75 cm long and 4 cm wide, 1 cm with seam allowances on all
sides.

The structure of the cuff of the cuff of the top men's shirt

Draw an ABCD rectangle.

Cuff width. The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to 16 centimeters.

Cuff length. The lines of the rectangle AB and DC are equal to 28 centimeters. The
lower corners are rounded.
Fold line. The lines AD and BC are bisected and the dividing points are connected by a
dotted line.

Note. Cut out 4 cuff pieces. In the finished form - 2 cuffs with folds.

Making a drawing of a collar pattern with a stand for a men's shirt

Draw the rectangle ABCD.

collar width. The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are 11 centimeters.

collar length. The lines of the rectangle AB and DC are equal to 22 centimeters (the
semicircle of the neck by measurement plus 2.5 centimeters for all dimensions): 19.5 +
2.5 \u003d 22.

Collar stand. It is laid 4 centimeters upwards from point D, and then a straight line is
drawn to the right until it intersects with the BC line, and from the intersection it is laid 2
centimeters to the left and 0.5 centimeters upwards, connecting them together. From
point C, it is laid 1.5 centimeters upwards, then the DC line is divided in half and a line is
drawn from the dividing point, 1.5 and 0.5 centimeters beyond the BC line. 0.5 and 0.5
points are connected.

collar. 1 centimeter is laid from the 4th point and connected to the 2nd point. 2
centimeters are laid from point A. Then extend 1-2 centimeters to the left from point
B. Point 2 and 1-2 are connected by a dotted line, divided in half, leaving 1 centimeter
from the dividing point. Line 2 is drawn from points 1, 1-2. Points 1-2 and 2 are
connected to each other.

How to sew a collar on a stand? There is nothing easier than following our advice.
Drawing of a men's shirt on the rubric "How to sew a men's shirt?"
Job description:

Reinforce the top of the bracelet and the inside of the stand with adhesive padding. To
sew a beautiful shirt collar that fits well and the ends will not bend, you need to use a
special collar thermal fabric. It is denser and more solid than normal.
Fold the front of the reinforced and non-reinforced thermal fabric sides of the fly
bracelet. Strip it starting from the middle of the collar.

In order to make the collar of the shirt stand well, give it a shape that will be in the neck,
sweep it. In this position, the lower collar of the shirt (without reinforcement) will
decrease slightly (the photo shows excess fabric on the shorter parts of the collar). Baste
both parts of the collar outside and short sides. The inside of the shirt collar remains open.
Sew exactly along the edge of the thermal fabric, but do not sew.
Along the lines, obliquely cut allowances up to 3-4 mm at the corners of the collar, as
shown in the photo. Notched triangles - for sure! Allowances in the corners of the collar
should be minimal.
Turn the flywheel to the right, sweep. The machine stitch should not be visible on the
front.
Sew the collar of the shirt at a distance of 5-7 mm from the edge.
Make sure that the seam is nice on both sides of the collar and runs exactly along the
edge or at the same distance from the edge - 1-2 mm.
fashion designer

Hello dear readers! What are we about ourselves, yes about ourselves? Let's spoil the
boys! Our lesson is dedicated to the men's shirt. A stylish tight-fitting shirt made of
beautiful sturdy fabric, sewn with your own hands, will be a wonderful gift for your
beloved man. Shall we begin?

Creating a men's shirt pattern

To create a shirt pattern, we need the measurements:

height 176

Chest circumference (full) Og 104

Waist circumference (full) from 92


Neck circumference (full) Osh 41

sleeve length 64

For our example, we'll use the measurements on it. typical shape R.52, shirt size 41 on the
collar. The construction of the pattern is carried out without allowances for seams. The
total increase of the half bust is 5.5 cm.
drawing grid

In the upper left corner of the page, put point A. Down ↓, set aside in a straight line:

Armhole depth \u003d Og / 10 + 12 \u003d 104 / 10 + 12 \u003d 22.4 cm + 2


cm (increase) = 24.4 cm

Back Waist Length = Height/4=176/4=44cm+ 1 cm (increase) = 45 cm

Item length = height / 2-14 = 176 / 2-14 = 74 cm

Draw vertical lines from each point to the right →

back neck

From point A to the right → on a perpendicular line, from the obtained points Osh / 6 + 1
\u003d 41 / 6 + 1 \u003d 7.8 cm, set aside the neck width of the back (Shgor) 2 cm The
neckline is a smooth curve draw with
back width

From point G to the right → along the line of the depth of the armhole, set aside the
width of the back \u003d Og / 5-1cm \u003d 104 / 5-1 \u003d 19.8 cm + 1.5
cm (increase) \u003d 21.3 cm (Og measure For figures over 112 cm, the width of the
ridge is calculated by the formula Og / 10 + 10.5 cm) From the obtained point, draw a
line perpendicular to the level t A. on this line, ¼ of the segment AG is separated from
the armhole depth lines and from this point to the right → Draw an auxiliary vertical
straight line 2 cm long.

Shoulder back line.

On a vertical straight line limiting the width of the ridge, put a point P, not reaching 2 cm
from the horizontal drawn from t. From tP to the right → draw a perpendicular straight
line 2-2.5 cm long from the highest point of the neck to the end of the vertical, which is
an auxiliary line of shoulder length.

The shoulder line of the back is shifted towards the shelf by 2 cm, so we will draw 2 cm
above the created line. parallel line draw the length of the shoulder of the back and the
neckline, the shoulder line of the back and the armhole line, ending at point B located on
the armhole depth line. from the straight line limiting the width of the ridge (a distance
equal to ((Og / 10 + 2) + 3.5 cm (increase)) / 2 \u003d 8 cm.
chest width

From point B to the right → set aside the distance ((Og / 10 + 2) + 3.5) / 2 \u003d 8 cm
From this point, draw up and down ↓ perpendicular to the waist line. The result is a line
in front of the armhole of the rack, it limits the width of the chest.

On this line, separate ¼ of the AG segment upwards from the armhole depth line.

Further, from the newly created line in front of the armhole along the armhole depth line,
divide the chest width equal to Wg \u003d (Og / 5-1) + + 0.75 (increase) \u003d 20.6 cm
To intersect the bottom line along the result point Draw a vertical up and down ↓. We got
the line in the middle of the front, it's also the half slip line. Attention! More than 112 cm
for Og Wg \u003d Og / 2 - Ws - Armhole width (this is equal to (Og / 10 + 2) + 3.5cm)

Draw the distance from the armhole depth line equal to AG minus 0 (normal stance) to 1
(oblique or developed back muscles), passing through point A1 and perpendicular to the
midline of the front. We take the top row of the rack drawing.
rack neck

Set aside the front neck width (Shgor) from A1 to the left ← from the rear drawing, from
t to A1 down ↓ along the front Shgor + 2 cm line. Connect the two new points with an
auxiliary straight line bisected, and the vertical from this point is 2 cm long. Draw a
neckline according to the drawing.

shoulder line

Separate a piece equal to 4 cm from the top of the line on the front of the cuff and
connect the resulting point. highest point rack necks.
The shoulder line should be lowered by 2 cm in parallel with the increase in the shoulder
section of the back. Its length is equal to the length of the shoulder from the drawing of
the back.

Draw the line of the armrest of the rack, taking into account the point of contact on the
line on the front of the armrest.

At this stage, it is necessary to measure the total length of the neck with the help of a
centimeter tape placed on the edge and compare it with the measurement taken from the
figure. Correct it if necessary.
The side seam and bottom line of the shirt.

From point B, lower ↓ vertically until it intersects the bottom line at point H1. Draw the
lines of the front and back side seams from point B, with a deviation in the waist region
of 1-3 cm, on the axis BH1 to a point 5 cm higher than H1.

Draw the bottom line of the shirt in accordance with the picture.
rear yoke

Put 7 cm from T A down ↓, horizontal to the armhole of the back, set aside 1.5 cm along
the line of the armhole down from the new point. This is the solution to the pinching in
the projection of the shoulder blades. Shape the lower part of the back according to the
pattern.
Shirt fastener design

The line of the side edge of the shirt runs parallel to the middle line inside the product at
a distance of 1.5 cm, at the same distance draw a finishing seam line that will secure the
selection.

Draw the border itself parallel to the bead edge at a distance of 4 cm (3 cm side width and
1 cm seam allowance).

Mark the buttons and loops, focusing on the lines of the armhole and waist depth, the
loops should be located next to these lines.

After construction, be sure to check the increase in the freeform by measuring the
drawing along the armhole depth, waist, bottom line and comparing it to your own
measurements.
dress sleeve

Let's start arm making by measuring the length of the armhole in the front and back
drawings. Do not forget to take into account the opening of the fold in the back, you need
to subtract its value from the total length of the armhole. Calculate the Height of the wok
hole \u003d Armhole length / 3-5 cm.

Draw a horizontal line down from point O. T to O, set aside wok, arm length. Draw right
→ left ← perpendicular lines from these points.

Draw an arc from point O with a radius equal to half the length of the armhole minus 0.3
cm until it intersects the horizontal Wok on the left and right.
Because the lower part of the cuff is completed with a cuff, it is necessary to shorten its
length by ½ of the cuff width.

The width of the lower cuff is equal to the length of the cuff (wrist circumference plus an
increase, usually for 50-52 cuff length 23 cm) + pleat depth + 0.5 cm fastener processing.
Creating the line of the arms. The part of the okat that is perpendicular to the back
armrest on the right, on the left on the shelf. We divide the oblique line of the right part
of the circle in half and draw a 2 cm perpendicular from the point, we draw a smooth
curve, see figure.

Left side of the eye. Divide the straight line exactly in half, outward from a vertical point
at 2 cm, divide the upper half of the curved straight line into three perpendicular
segments 0.7-1.2 cm long, from the point closest to the apex. curve in shape.

It is necessary to check the fit of the sleeve according to the length of the armhole. The
sleeve length should be 1.5-2 cm longer than the armhole. Adjust if necessary.

Draw a cuff pattern. Rectangle 23 cm long + 2 cm (stapling) and 7.5 cm wide.

Detail for edge fasteners. Rectangle 16*4cm

Clip plate. Rectangle 20*7cm, finished width 2.5cm.


Shirt collar with cut-out stand

Measure front and rear neck length, split on x-axis plus 1.5cm buckle, in Y-axis order
0.7cm (stand rise), 3.5cm (stand width), 1.2cm (flight height), 4.5 cm (collar opening
width).

Draw the seam line and the upper cut of the cutting table on the neck of the shirt with
neat folds according to the figure.

Pull the collar ends that expand from the ends according to the shape.
The basic pattern is ready! Based on this, with the help of modeling, you can create
several options for men's shirts, slightly changing the proportions and shape of the final
details. We wish you good luck and inspiration!

In this post, I've gathered the entire process of sewing a shirt, as they say, from A to Z!
The author of this miracle: Elena Kucherova is a professional seamstress. So, I beg you
not to praise me too much))
What the post contains:
First of all, the easiest shirt pattern I know!!!
Next: sewing, crimp transfer, video fitting, assembly and many little tricks!

I wish you creative inspiration and good luck in the implementation of your plans!!!

Freedom for a shirt

To begin with, I decided to give increments worthy of attention . Please note that now we
are talking about sewing a classic shirt from non-stretch fabric.

I want you to not only stupidly follow the advice in various design textbooks, but
consciously choose the increased freedom to adapt to your product.

In fact, why should we add to the measures?

People tend to act, especially active girls like you, my dear subscribers. All right, let's not
move, let's at least breathe.

Therefore, we can determine the smallest increase in


freedom by taking a deep breath and measuring our
chest circumference. I checked, cm 2 was added to the
chest circumference.

Here it is determined. The smallest increase in chest


circumference is 2 cm. With such an increase, you will
get the same shirt as the girls from the inscription
"Always in fashion shirt".

But if in this shirt you plan not only to breathe, but


also to move, then the right to freedom of fit around
the chest should be increased to 6-8 cm. We get a
semi-adjacent silhouette.

For a fully baggy shirt we give an increase of 8 cm.


Now to the hips.

The increase in freedom of fit around the hips (we don't move it too intensely here) is
usually taken by 0.5% of the increase in the chest. But at least 2 cm.

I don't give an increase in the waist because we minimize the waist folds as we build and
remove the excess as we try.

Adding to the back width (Ws) and chest width (Wg) is also important.

From 4 cm to the width of the back, you need to add to the width of the chest - 80% of
the increase in the width of the back.

Once you start drawing a drawing, you will understand how much to increase the width
of the back and chest. It should match the shoulder length and the overall width of the
product in the chest area.

If you are only sewing a very loose shirt, we add lengths. Then we add 0.5 cm each of
Dpt (Length of Front to Waist) and Dst (Length of Back to Waist).

We will increase the width and depth of the neck after construction.

Creating a shirt pattern


1. Draw a horizontal line. This is waist size. We sign so you don't get confused.
2. Stepping back 5 cm from the right edge of the paper, we place a point on the waist line
that we have drawn perpendicularly through it. This is the middle front line.
3. Along this line of the center front, we put the measurement Dtp (waist length in the
front) from the waist up. Let's call the resulting point O.
4. Draw a perpendicular to point O to the left.
5. Set aside the Osh (Neck circumference) value in this dict: 6. Let's call the resulting
point W.
6. Detach neck depth down from point O. It is 1 cm more than its width.
7. We split the Dp (Shoulder length) measurement further to the left of the W point. We
call the point P P.
8. From the P point down, set aside 4 cm for the slope of the shoulder. Let's call the point
P1.
9. We draw the line ShP1. Extend it slightly beyond the P1 point.
10. From the waist down along the midline of the front, set aside the value of About (hip
circumference): 5.
From the resulting point we draw a perpendicular to the left. This is the hip line. we sign.
That is, the distance from the waist line to the hip line is calculated with the formula
Ob:5.

Back

1. From the middle of the front along the hip line, set aside the Ob (hip circumference)
plus an increase in the hips: 2.
Draw a perpendicular from the resulting point. This is the midline of the back.
2. Set aside the measurement Dst (Length of Back to Waist) along the midline of the back
above the waist. We call the resulting point O1.
3. Draw a right perpendicular from point O1. Set aside the Osh (Neck circumference)
value: 6. Set the Ш1 point.
4. Detach 2 cm below the O1 point, this is the neck depth.
5. From point W1 to the right, we reserve Dp (Shoulder length) plus 1 cm for
landing. Let's call the point P2.
6. From point P2 down, set aside 3 cm for shoulder curvature. We take point P3.
7. We draw the line Ш1 П3. Set aside the Dp+1 measurement once again on it.
8. We check whether the measurement in the drawing corresponds to Vpk (oblique
shoulder height). If it's more, leave it until it sits. The main thing is no less. If less,
decrease shoulder incline (distance P2 P3).
9. We set aside the measurement Wb (Side Height) from the waist. We draw a line from
the middle of the back to the middle of the front. Let's sign the "chest line".
We calculate the width of the shelf and back along the chest line.
Og2 (Chest circumference 2) plus the increase in chest divided by 4. Now add 2 cm to the
shelf and subtract 2 cm from the back.
For example, Og2 is 100 cm, plus an increase of 8 cm in the chest.
It turns out (100+8):4=27. Shelf width will be 27+2=29. Back width 27−2=25.
We set aside the resulting values along the chest line.
We will call the resulting point of the width of the Bp shelf rear - Bs. They will still be
useful to us.
We make the shelf at waist level and the back part 1-1.5 cm narrower at chest level than
these details.
We set aside the values that appeared on the waistline.

We calculate the width of the shelf and back along the hip line.
It is calculated in the same way as the chest.
Approximate (Hip circumference) plus increase in hips divided by 4. Add 2 cm to the
rack, subtract 2 cm from the back.
We postpone the resulting values along the hip line.
We draw the side line, connecting the corresponding points on the line of the chest, waist
and hips.

Let's make a shelf.

1. We draw a parallel line at distance Tg (Chest center) from the line in the middle of the
rack: 2.
This line starts from the hip line and ends at the shoulder line.
Let's put a point G1 where this line intersects with the shoulder line.
2. Set aside the measurement of Vg (chest height) from point G1 to the result line. Let's
call it the G spot.
3. From the point Г1 along the shoulder line to the left (Ог2− Ог1) + 5 we set. Let's call
the point G2. We connect the points G2 and G. The result is a chest lift.
4. Fold the paper, closing the cover. With a closed nip, we continue the shoulder line
from point W to point G1.
5. Set aside the measurement Dp (Shoulder length) at the new shoulder line.
6. With a closed stretch, we delay the measurement of Wg (chest width) plus an
increase. We draw a line between the neck depth and the side height line to delay this
measurement.
7. Draw a straight line from the point of the shoulder tip to the point Bp across the width
of the front. This is the armhole line. This is where we will sew the sleeve.
8. Check that the armhole line is at right angles to the shoulder line. If not, straighten it
without reducing the shoulder length.
9. Leave 2 cm down from point D. It is the beginning of the waist fold of the shelf. The
end of this curl will be at hip level. On each side of this fold, separate 1 cm from the
waist. Draw a fold.

Let's build the back.

1. Set aside midway between neck depth and side height line, measurement Shs (back
width) plus an increment.
2. We draw a straight line from the points P3 to the point Bs of the back width.
3. Parallel to midline of back, equidistant from Cg (Center of Chest): 2 -1. draw a
line. This is the line of the waist crease in the back. It goes from the hip line to the side
height line.
4. From this line, leave 1 cm gap in both directions at the waist, it will be enough before
trying. We're connecting all sides of Tuck.

The drawing is almost ready. It remains to make minor adjustments, especially for the
shirt.

1. We deepen and expand the neckline by 1 cm on the rack and back. This is to avoid
being suffocated by the collar.
2. We draw another line at a distance of 6 cm parallel to the middle line of the shelf, our
shirt will be tied to the bar.

Look, that's it.

It's important now! We measure the drawing and check its compliance with the
measurements.

We transfer Tuck

For a plaid shirt, we can't leave the bust stretching where it is - at the shoulder seam. It is
necessary to transfer the tuck to the side seam. There, the displacement of the cell will be
less noticeable.

This is done simply: draw a line from the side seam (we start 5-7 cm below the armhole)
to the point where the fold begins. We cut the pattern along this line, closing the old one
and opening the new one. The only thing is to shorten a new pinch by 2 cm.
Here is a picture of my cut. The new tuck starting point is marked with a pink line.
If you wish, you can carve coquettes on the shelves and/or the back. Just draw the yoke
line you want on the pattern and cut it out.

Everything is fine, you can start cutting.

Of course, it is more convenient to use full pattern shirts, not half. If it's not laziness, draw
the second half of the back.

We will take into account the rules when cutting plaid fabric : We
place the most noticeable khaki strips in the middle of the main parts, sleeves, yokes and
collars.
We place the dominant transverse strips along the bottom or sleeve.
Do not put bright stripes at the level of the chest, waist or hips - they expand the
silhouette.
transverse lines must match at the seams. Merging cells is easier if you place adjacent
pieces next to each other as you cut. You can hover in the lower part, hover in the
waistline.
Luxurious when the cells at the shoulder seams match.
The pattern on the pockets, valves should match the pattern of the parts they are on. If
you do not want to suffer, cut small details and coquettes at an angle of 45 degrees. By
the way, this will decorate the shirt.
If you do cut the fabric in half though, secure it with pins often to prevent slipping.

Important!
After fixing the details on the fabric, once again check the overlap of the cells, the
direction of the allowance, the seam allowances.

Creating a sleeve pattern

Now about the arm.

1. We draw two perpendicular lines. Let's call the intersection point O.


2. Calculate the height of the eye. Measure the length of the front and back armholes, fold
and divide by 3. Subtract 1 from this number for a shirt, for a short wide sleeve - 2 cm.
3. Put the resulting value above point O. We get the point O1.
4. We calculate arm width: shoulder circumference (Op) plus an increase in wearing
freedom. For a shirt, this is 6-8 cm.
5. The resulting value is split equally on both sides of the O point. We call the resulting
points P and C.
6. We connect P to O1, C to O1.
7. Divide PO1 in half and the resulting segments in half again.
8. We cut CO1 in half, the resulting segments are still in half.
9. From point P to point O1 we draw a curve in the first half of 1.5–2 cm, with a
deviation of 1.5 cm in the second “bent”.
10. We draw a curve from point C to point O1 with a deviation in the first half of 1 cm, in
the second “bent” 1.5 cm.

See the drawing. I marked all these deviations and “bends” in the drawing with the
corresponding numbers.

11. Cut the length of the sleeve down from point O1. Let's call point H
12. On both sides of H, we evenly distribute the width of the bottom sleeve in half.
13. We connect the resulting points with P and C, respectively.
14. We measure the size of the front part of the sleeve. This is the PO1 curve. Compare
with the size of the armhole of the shelf.
15. We measure the size of the back of the arm. This is the CO1 curve. Compare with the
size of the rear armhole.

If the edge of the sleeve of the back corresponds to the armhole of the back, and the front
of the edge of the sleeve corresponds to the armhole of the shelf, then that's it, the sleeve
is ready.

Often times, the armhole of the rack is smaller than the armhole of the rear. Therefore,
the sleeves of the front part should also be smaller. We measure the difference in cm and
we cut half of this difference from the front of the sleeve and add it to the back of the
sleeve. See the drawing. The new outline is turquoise.

When building on paper, I take it directly and cut a strip from the front of the sleeve and
paste it on the back.

We cut, sweep the details

shirt fitting

Where to start sewing shirts after trying


After trying it, we make changes to the cut. First, in a pattern, it will most likely still be
useful to you, and then in a cut.

Let's start sewing:

1. If there are coquettes, we sew them to the main details


2. We crush the folds (chest and waist)
3. We carry out the processing of the middle cut of the shelf with a stick
4. We grind the shoulder seams, combining the pattern, we embroider the cut

I'll tell you a little more about wood.

Remember we added 6cm to the middle of the shelf?

The simplest is to turn the middle cut inside out by 1 cm and fold it 3.5 cm again, baste,
sew to the face. That's the whole plan. You can also sew on the edges.

Further:
You can already decide on the size of the pockets, valves, cut them.
The top of the pocket is embroidered with an overlog or a closed-cut hemstitch. Side and
bottom pockets are folded and zipped.
Glue the top cover of the pocket with interlining.
We fold the upper and lower valves face-to-face, cut or sweep, grind as we are used
to. Cut the seam allowances step by step, trim the corners.
Try on the shirt and decide on the location of the pockets and flaps. Baste them and sew.

How to sew a collar with a stand

Observing the direction of the common thread and, accordingly, the pattern of the fabric,
we impose the pattern of the collar and the stand on the fabric folded in half, we circle it
once along the contour, the second - with allowances for the seams. We cut. We check
that there are 2 parts of the collar and 2 parts of the stand.

Flizelin top replicates the neckline and top shelves.

First, fold the collar parts face to face.


crumble
We grind the details of the collar, sew along the smaller lower part,
make a gradual cut to reduce the thickness of the seam allowances
trim the corners
inside out
turn sweep
fold the collar in half - check the "sameness" of the left and right corners we sew to the
edge or to the foot
ironing

Here is a photo where the inward rounding of the front is clearly visible.
Next step:

We fasten a stand to the collar, sew it.


Please note: We apply the inside of the stand to the front of the collar and the outside to
the wrong side. We start splitting in the middle for accuracy.
Gradually cut the seam allowances of the shelf

We turn from the inside out we


sweep
check the "sameness" of the left and right sides

Here is my leash. I made the lower part of the collar and the stand from a different fabric.
We fasten the collar stand on the outside to the front of the shirt, fix it with pins, sew.
We attach the inner side of the shelf to the wrong side of the shirt, carefully glue it, sew
it.
Consider a finished men's shirt. See how neatly the shelf is sewn to its length?
Do you think it's all about the professionalism of the tailors? Not just. There is a little
secret . I will tell you now.
Before attaching the stand to the collar, a turn is made on the inside of the stand by the
width of the share. The allowance is wrapped, to which the stand is attached to the
neck. It needs to be swept or sewn to the wrong side. With the rotation already made, we
begin to process the rack.
This will allow in the future to carefully and easily sew the stand to the neck.

finish the shirt

If you have arms, then:

Pin and sew the sleeves to match the midpoint of the sleeves and the shoulder seam.
Sew the side seam and sleeve seam in one stitch.

I have a sleeveless shirt and its sleeves will be turned inside out.

If you also sew a sleeveless shirt, then:

Cut a rudder (oblique trim) 4 cm wide, fold it in half, sweep in this form to fix it.

Pin, sew the handlebar to the armhole on the face


Turn over, baste, sew neatly along the edge of the roll

Iron

Are your pockets ready?

Not? Let's get ready.

Cover the top of the pocket, turn it over, sew. Turn over the remaining sides of the
pocket, sweep. Pin the finished pockets in place, baste, sew.

Fold the cut wings face to face. The sawdust has a little overlap on the bottom of the top
of the valve so you get a nice roll later, grind it.
Gradually cut the seam allowances, trim the corners.

Go out, sweep, roll the top of the valve down. Sew the flap of the pocket to the "side" or
"foot". Iron. Fix the valves in place, sew.

Side seams, overlap


Secure the seam allowance with a few forward stitches under the armpits.
Cover the bottom of the shirt, pinch 1 cm, sweep, sew.
Put on loops, sew on buttons.
Not hard. Gradually migrating to the women's wardrobe, such a piece of clothing as the
shirt acquired many variations and styles. You can get a romantic or democratic style by
decorating it with some details. So this detail of the toilet can even become a blouse. But
the basis is always the same - a classic shirt pattern. We will get to know him now.

What measurements to take and how to take them correctly

It is necessary to take measurements in order to make the shirt mold. They are removed
directly from the person to whom the future product is sewn. Measurements are values
obtained by measuring the circumference or length of body parts with a centimeter tape.

So we measure while placing the neck at the level of the collarbone and speaker. cervical
vertebra posterior. The resulting value is saved. In the future, we fix all the measurement
values on the paper with maximum accuracy, it depends on them the correct tailor of the
shirt.

Easy to measure waist and hips. It is worth remembering that the hips and chest are
measured at the most prominent points.

The length of the product is measured to the mid-thigh line parallel to the spine, and the
length of the back is measured to the waist.

building a shirt rack

Creating a pattern for a women's shirt is not difficult if you know that its main part
consists of three elements - a back and two front shelves. Shelves are two halves
connected by a fastener.
We create a pattern of women's shirts, starting from the shelf on a large sheet of paper.

1. Let's draw a horizontal line whose length is equal to the circumference of the
waist. Let's sign the line.
2. Leave 5 cm on the right side and place a point in the middle of the front, where we
will draw a vertical line.
3. In this row, we split such values up and down to get the length of the product. We
put the points.
4. Draw a perpendicular from the top point to the left.
5. Accordingly, we separate the neck circumference and show it with a dot.
6. From the starting point, it is necessary to postpone the neck depth, which is about
1 cm more than the neck circumference.
7. At the end of the neck circumference, separate the shoulder length to the left.
8. And we measure 4 cm down from the end of the shoulder, connecting the
beginning and the end of the shoulder line so that it slopes down.
9. From the waist down along the line in the center of the front, set aside the value of
the hip circumference.
10. From the found point to the left we draw a perpendicular, which will be the line of
the hips.

We make the back of the shirt

The tread pattern will be slightly wider than the shelves. It is much easier to build.
Calculation of the width of the elements relative to the chest line

It is not possible to make a pattern for a women's shirt without checking the
measurements taken. In this case, the width of the product is much more important than
its length.

We make a small increase to the chest circumference (7-8 cm), divide the amount by
4. The width of the shelf will be equal to this figure, it should be increased by 2 cm, and
for the back it should be 2 cm. subtracted from the resulting number. Set these values
aside along the chest line and mark them with dots. Since the waist is narrower than the
chest, the same values at the waist will be a few centimeters less.

Calculation of the width of the elements relative to the hip line

In this case, dots are applied to the pattern of a women's shirt, the position of which is
made similar to the previous one. The only difference is that at the end you have to finish
the side line connecting the waist, hips and chest at the extreme points.
And in conclusion, it remains to make a few small touches to the drawing:

1. We create an arbitrary compression in the chest.


2. Draw a neat line from the shoulder edge to the edge of the chest line. This will be
the armhole of your shirt. The arm is sewn.
3. We draw a pinch 1 cm wide from the waist line to the hip line.
4. The "waist" fold on the back is located from the line of the hips to the middle of
the side.
5. Slightly deepen and widen the neck.
6. Creating a plaque for the button line parallel to the center of the front.
With perseverance and care, you can quickly and easily create a pattern for a women's
shirt. This is true even for a novice tailor. It is enough to understand a women's shirt
once, to develop on its basis more complex models of shirts and blouses.

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