S215 Repair Guide

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S215 REPAIR MANUAL


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These instructions are intended to help restore any ailing S215 Passive
Loudspeaker back to factory working conditions. They show how to remove and
replace the drivers.
Please contact Mackie Technical Support (1-800-898-3211) to receive a Service
Request Number and Order Number for parts needed for this restoration. They will
also help you determine the nature of the problem and what parts will repair the unit.

Tools needed:
***NOTE: not all tools listed below will be needed for your repair***
• Phillips head screwdriver.
• 3mm and 5mm allen wrench.
• 8mm open end wrench.
• Solid workbench.

Parts needed:
***NOTE: not all parts listed below will be needed for your repair***
• 15” Woofer Part #0010658 pages 3-4
• High Frequency Driver Part #0008093 pages 5-8
• Diaphragm Part #coming soon pages 9-10

Safety Warnings:
• Make sure that you disconnect all cords before you begin these procedures.
• Always use safety glasses!
• Please try NOT to touch any of the pcb circuitry, capacitors, resistors, etc.
• Take care to read and follow these instructions. It may help to read the
instructions prior to the repair to get an idea of what it entails.
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Woofer replacement:
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2 5

3 6
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1 Three screws need to be removed from
each side of the grill (six screws total)
using the phillips head screwdriver. A flat
head screwdriver may aid in loosening
the grill if it is sticking.

4 3

3 Four screws need to be removed from


the woofer using the 5mm allen wrench.

2 Keep the six screws in a safe place.

4 Keep these four screws in a safe place,


too.
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Woofer replacement continued:

5 Carefully begin to remove the woofer.


This woofer has a tendency to want to
pop out, so please be sure to hold the
woofer in place with your free hand
while removing the screws with the other
hand.
Caution: The woofer is approximately
10 pounds with the weight unevenly
distributed.

- + 7 The picture above shows what the


S215 looks like with the grill and woofer
removed. Place the new woofer (part
#0010658) where the old one was. Follow
the same steps as above, but backwards
6 to 1. Power up the S215 and the
new woofer should now be pumping
out glorious lows. Awesome, you just
replaced a 15” woofer!

pull out

6 The positive (solid yellow) and negative


(solid black) cables are still attached to
the woofer terminals. Notice the positive
(+) and negative (-) indents located next
to each terminal (circled above). Do
not force cable removal or connection,
although needle-nose pliers may aid in
loosening the crimped cables.
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High Frequency Driver replacement:

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1 2
2 5

4 3
3 6

1 Three screws need to be removed from


each side of the grill (six screws total)
using the phillips head screwdriver. A flat
head screwdriver may aid in loosening
the grill if it is sticking.

3 Four screws and flat washers need to be


removed from the horn assembly using
the 5mm allen wrench.

2 Keep the six screws in a safe place.

4 Keep the four screws and flat washers in


a safe place.
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High Frequency Driver replacement continued:

5 Carefully begin to remove the entire horn


assembly (with the high frequency driver
still attached). A flat head screwdriver
may aid in loosening the horn assembly
by prying between it and the cabinet.
Hold the horn assembly in place with one
hand while prying around the edge with
your free hand.
Caution: The horn weighs about 5
pounds, and the weight is unevenly
distributed.

Push down
7 This is what it looks like with the grill
and horn assembly removed. See the
next page for further instructions and
additional pictures on how to remove
- + and replace the high frequency driver.

6 The positive (solid blue) and negative


(solid black) cables are still attached
to the high frequency driver terminals.
Remove the cables from their terminals
simply by pushing down on the terminal
and pulling out the cable.
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High Frequency Driver replacement continued:

headless
screw
nut
locking washer
flat washer

8 Four nuts and eight washers may be


removed from the driver using the
8mm open end wrench. Turn counter-
clockwise to loosen and remove,
clockwise to tighten. The other three are
located around the horn assembly. Lift
the horn up as the nuts are loosened. It
cannot be removed otherwise. Notice
10 The horn assembly should easily lift
right off of the high frequency driver.

that the flat washer is on the bottom,


followed by the locking washer, and
finally the nut.

9 Keep the four nuts, four locking washers,


and four flat washers in a safe place.
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High Frequency Driver replacement continued:

1 2

12 Keep the four headless screws in


a safe place. Place the new high
frequency driver (part #0008093)
4 3 where the old one was by following
the same steps as above, but
backwards 11 to 1. Power up the
S215 and the new driver should now
be pumping out those highs again.
Fantastic, you just replaced a high
frequency driver!

1 2

4 3

11 This is what the high frequency


driver looks like removed from
the horn assembly. Four headless
screws need to be removed from
the driver. Pliers could help if the
screws are too tight. Turn counter-
clockwise to loosen and remove,
clockwise to tighten.
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Diaphragm replacement:
1 At the present time (January 2007),
diaphragms are not currently available,
so you will have to replace the complete
driver following the previous section
(pages 5-8). If you have received a
diaphragm, please follow the steps
below.

2 Follow steps 1-6 of the high frequency


driver replacement instructions, as the
horn will need to be removed in order to
access the diaphragm.

1 2

4 3

3 The horn assembly is shown above with


the high frequency driver circled. Four

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screws need to be removed from the The diaphragm and plate adapter are
driver using the 3mm allen wrench. easily removed from the horn assembly.
Notice the terminal locations in relation
to the indents of the high frequency
driver (circled above).

4 Keep the four screws in a safe place. 6 This is what the plate adapter and
diaphragm look like after they have
been removed from the horn assembly.
The diaphragm is separated from the
plate adapter simply by pushing down
on the terminals.
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Diaphragm replacement continued:

7 This is what the plate adapter (left) and


diaphragm (right) both look like. Place
the new diaphragm (part # coming
soon) where the old one was. Follow the
same steps as above, but backwards
6 to 1. Power up the S215 and the new
diaphragm should now be pumping
out those highs again. Sweet, you just
replaced a diaphragm!
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