On Self Hatred Alain De Botton

Visit to download the full and correct content document:

https://ebookmeta.com/product/on-self-hatred-alain-de-botton/
More products digital (pdf, epub, mobi) instant
download maybe you interests ...

Masochistic Nationalism Multicultural Self Hatred and

the Infatuation with the Exotic 1st Edition Göran
Adamson

https://ebookmeta.com/product/masochistic-nationalism-
multicultural-self-hatred-and-the-infatuation-with-the-
exotic-1st-edition-goran-adamson/

International Handbook on Diversity Management at Work

Country Perspectives on Diversity and Equal Treatment
2nd Edition Alain Klarsfeld

https://ebookmeta.com/product/international-handbook-on-
diversity-management-at-work-country-perspectives-on-diversity-
and-equal-treatment-2nd-edition-alain-klarsfeld/

Cinema 1st Edition Alain Badiou

https://ebookmeta.com/product/cinema-1st-edition-alain-badiou/

German Philosophy A Dialogue Alain Badiou

https://ebookmeta.com/product/german-philosophy-a-dialogue-alain-
badiou/
Locating and Losing the Self in the World Cross
Cultural Reflections on Self Awareness and Self
Transcendence 1st Edition Laura Specker Sullivan

https://ebookmeta.com/product/locating-and-losing-the-self-in-
the-world-cross-cultural-reflections-on-self-awareness-and-self-
transcendence-1st-edition-laura-specker-sullivan/

Kierkegaard on Self Ethics and Religion Purity or

Despair Fremstedal

https://ebookmeta.com/product/kierkegaard-on-self-ethics-and-
religion-purity-or-despair-fremstedal/

The Logic of Hatred: From Witch Hunts to the Terror

Jacob Rogozinski

https://ebookmeta.com/product/the-logic-of-hatred-from-witch-
hunts-to-the-terror-jacob-rogozinski/

Hume on the Self and Personal Identity 1st Edition Dan

O'Brien

https://ebookmeta.com/product/hume-on-the-self-and-personal-
identity-1st-edition-dan-obrien/

A Match Made in Hatred Dark Dirty Vows 1 1st Edition

Morgan Bridges

https://ebookmeta.com/product/a-match-made-in-hatred-dark-dirty-
vows-1-1st-edition-morgan-bridges/
Another random document with
no related content on Scribd:
small sponge cakes. I was not a little surprised at their mode of
cooking a cauliflower which I had inquired for; after a great many
“toute a l’heure’s,” it made its appearance, boiled as soft as batter,
and mixed up with oil, vinegar, and pepper, like a salad!

The wine was excellent, and the glass circulated freely. Who
thought I, would not travel in a voiture, to live thus cheerily, and at so
trifling an expense, for it will scarcely appear credible, that the
proprietor had engaged to convey me to Toulouse, a distance of one
hundred and twenty-five miles, occupying five days on the journey,
and providing me with every necessary, beds included, for thirty-five
francs, equal to about five shillings and ten pence English money per
day!

Our supper party consisted of nine or ten persons, not indeed of

the most select kind, but I had no right to complain, as with a view of
avoiding trouble, and imposition, and at the same time, with some
prospect of deriving gratification from the melange of characters I
expected to meet with, I had engaged to put up with the general fare.

My companions appeared to enjoy their repast, and every

additional glass evidently produced increased animation, as they
talked louder and faster. They were, however, particularly attentive to
myself, my want of sight probably exciting their sympathy.

At length, fatigued with the scene, I gave them to understand that I

wished to retire, and was conducted to a chamber which was
furnished with several beds, and had the pleasure of finding the one
that had been selected for my repose, good and commodious. But
an important dilemma now presented itself: taking the fille-de-
chambre by the hand, in order to ascertain that she was carrying the
candle away with her, a point I am always particular in attending to,
as, when it has been left behind, I have occasionally burnt my
fingers, and once even made an extinguisher of my chin; and then
making a motion to lock her out, that I might, according to the
especial clause in my agreement to that effect, appropriate the room
entirely to myself, I was surprised to find her as strenuously oppose
this measure, as most of the fair sex, I have no doubt, would an
attempt to lock them in. It was useless endeavouring to comprehend
her meaning, and only by returning to the supper-room, did I learn,
that the room in question, was intended for the accommodation of
the whole party. It is not easy to conceive the confusion which
ensued, on my evincing a steady determination not to pass the night
by the side of the conducteur, or even the ladies of our party; I
persisted, however, in my resolution, and folding my arms, and
closing my eye-lids, reclined, in the posture of repose, in a large
easy chair in which I happened to be placed.

At length, the bootmaker’s wife, taking me by the hand, conducted

me to a single-bedded room, from which, after having assisted in my
arrangements, and warmed my bed, she permitted me to lock her
out.

I cannot but express myself grateful, for the interest this kind-
hearted woman evinced in my favour, on the present occasion; but
this is not the only time, that I have been indebted for support and
success, to a fair advocate.

At four in the morning we were summoned by the conducteur, and

the soldier’s wife kindly came to assist me down stairs. The party
were assembled in the parlour, and fortifying themselves, against the
fatigues of the day, with bread and brandy, but I gave the preference
to some grapes. At eleven, we halted for breakfast, and, according to
the usual custom, rested two hours in the middle of the day; after this
we pursued our journey, the conducteur mounting under cover in
front of the voiture, to protect him from the rain, which was falling
heavily. About three o’clock, while proceeding so quietly, that it might
almost be presumed, that not only the conducteur and his
passengers, but the horses themselves were fast asleep, we were
aroused by the very interesting incident of our whole equipage,
including the horses, being overturned into a deep ditch. I shall not
attempt to describe the noise and confusion which succeeded; the
party were almost frantic with terror; at length, having succeeded in
extricating ourselves from this unpleasant situation, I was placed for
shelter under a large tree, while the rest assisted the conducteur in
raising up the coach and horses. This operation took up half-an-hour,
during which, I could hear our guide contributing abundantly, both
with his whip and imprecations.

Fortunately no serious injury was sustained, and I felt strong

reason to congratulate myself, for I had heard in the morning, that
we were to cross the Garonne this afternoon, and my first impression
was, that we were falling into this river; nor had I forgotten my
adventures on the Dordogne.

The carriage being at length righted, the conducteur urged forward

his jaded horses with little mercy, probably stimulated by revenge for
the late occurrence, which was mainly attributable to his own
negligence. At six o’clock we crossed the Garonne, and in
consequence of delays and accidents, did not arrive at our auberge
until eight o’clock, when we dispatched a hasty supper, and retired to
bed. I here found the advantage of my resolution on the preceding
evening, having an undisputed bed-room to myself.

We resumed our journey at the usual hour in the morning. Before

we set out, the conducteur requested me to advance him a part of
his fare, and which I believe is usual, if not generally necessary, as
these people are so miserably poor, that, otherwise, they would be
unable to bear the unavoidable expenses of the journey; but in my
case, as it was agreed that he should be paid by my banker, on my
safe arrival at Toulouse, he had no right to expect the indulgence.
This arrangement had been adopted from my wish to have it
supposed that I was travelling without money, notwithstanding, I had
the precaution, as a resource against accidents, not only to have a
few napoleons in my portmanteau, but also some in a girdle round
my waist, so that I had a double chance of not being left destitute.

In the present case, in order to put this surly fellow into good
humour, I thought well to advance him a couple of five franc pieces,
but without producing the effect I had anticipated; for finding myself
suffering from headach, which I attributed to want of due exercise, I
made signs for him to halt, while I might get out of the coach, with
the intention of walking for a time; he only, however, replied, with
much coolness, “toute a l’heure;” and notwithstanding my repeated
request, was quite indisposed to accommodate me, until I
manifested my intention of jumping out: he now thought well to stop
his horses, and proffer his assistance; however, I refused it, and
succeeded in finding the back part of the coach, where I secured my
hold by means of a piece of cord (which when travelling I make a
rule to carry always in my pocket), and which, in the present
instance, served me as a leading string; I then followed, in this way,
on foot for several miles, to the no small amusement of the villagers,
who laughed heartily, and even shouted after me. I had, however,
the satisfaction of getting rid of my headach, and succeeded in
completely tiring myself. We did not reach our breakfast point before
two o’clock, and proceeding again at four, arrived proportionately late
at the end of the day’s journey.

The succeeding morning proved remarkably fine, and we

prosecuted our journey with additional pleasure. I found the
conducteur more humble, and my companions, in general, more
attentive to me than usual. The advantage I had derived from
exercise on the preceding day determined me to walk again, and the
bootmaker civilly offered me his arm. After proceeding some
distance, he proposed entering a wine-shop, to which I assented; we
tried three, however, before we found any wine to our taste: in
consequence of the time thus lost, the voiture got considerably the
start of us, so that we were obliged to exert ourselves to regain it.

On producing our wine, the provision-bags were also brought

forward; we became merry as gypsies, and my cocked-hat friend
particularly facetious. Soon after one o’clock, we arrived, in high
glee, at our breakfasting-place, where we found a voiture full of
students, on their way to the university of Toulouse. These young
gentlemen paid me a marked attention during our repast, assisting
me liberally to the produce of the table, and replenishing my glass
before it was empty. When the voiture was ready, I walked forward
with the soldier’s wife, who appeared a far more respectable woman,
than from her situation in life might have been expected. I now
learnt, partly by words, and partly by signs, the situation and
circumstances of her husband; that subsequently to the peace, he
had attempted to support himself in Germany by his trade; but
difficulties arising, he was removing to Toulouse, her native place, in
hopes of proving more successful.

In the course of our walk, we ascended a considerable hill, from

which, my companion informed me, the prospect was most extensive
and beautiful. The air at this spot I found so soft, balmy, and
exhilarating, that I felt assured I had now reached the south of
France. After crossing a river, at seven o’clock we reached our
quarters for the evening. The students had preceded us, and in
consequence of their occupying the attention of the house, we had to
wait a long time for our supper.

On the following morning we resumed our journey in high spirits,

from the prospect of arriving at Toulouse in the evening. We reached
Agen for breakfast, which I understood to be a very fine city: I was at
this place so much charmed with the manners and attentions of
some young ladies at the inn, that I admit I did not depart without
regret. Had I the same talents for acquiring languages, as Joseph
Scaliger, who was a native of this place, possessed, I might by this
time have known sufficient of the French to have benefitted by the
agreeable conversation of these ladies. At six in the evening we
entered Toulouse, and were set down at a miserable inn, termed the
Three Mules.

While our supper was getting ready, I went, under protection of the
soldier’s wife, to call upon Mrs. W⸺, a lady who had kindly offered
to assist in procuring me a reception, for the winter, in some
respectable French family. I was fortunate enough to find her at
home; when she expressed much surprise at the manner in which I
had travelled so far, and informed me, that preparatory
arrangements had been made for my residence in the family of
Colonel du B⸺. In returning to the inn we experienced some
embarrassment; for my conductress had been so long absent from
her native city, that we had much difficulty, in consequence of the
narrowness and intricacy of the streets, in finding our way back to
the inn.

After supper I was conducted to one of the most comfortless

rooms that could be imagined; every thing felt so damp, so
antiquated, and dusty: some of the chairs were without legs, others
without backs; and the windows were broken: but as there was no
remedy, I was obliged to make the best of it, and congratulated
myself on having reached my destined winter residence, and thus
far, negatived the doubts, and kind apprehensions of my friends.
 CHAP. V.
TOULOUSE.

On the following morning, Mr. F⸺, a friend of Mrs. W⸺’s,

called upon me, to state the full particulars of the arrangements for
my reception into the family of Colonel du B⸺, to whom I was to
be introduced on the morrow; and in the evening, this kind lady sent
two gentlemen to conduct me to her residence, when I had the
pleasure of being introduced to a small circle of her acquaintance.

In the morning, Mr. F⸺ called upon me, in company with Colonel

du B⸺, when it was settled, that I was to become an inmate, in the
family of the latter, on the following day. These gentlemen did me the
favour to settle for my journey with the voiturier, and gave him a
severe reprimand for his want of humanity; and I took the opportunity
of convincing the soldier’s wife, who was present, of my sense of her
kindness.

I now soon found myself happily situated in the house of Colonel

du B⸺, with whom I proposed to remain, until the approach of
spring might invite me to pursue my tour, and under the expectation,
in the interim, of improving my health, and acquiring a knowledge of
the French language. The former point was admirably promoted by
the kind attentions, and domestic arrangements, of Madame du B
⸺; the latter would not fail to result from so extended a residence
in a family wholly unacquainted with English, and where necessity,
and the force of habit, must concur in instructing me. I cannot,
however, but acknowledge the patient assistance which I received
from the whole family; and my views were also promoted by a pretty
regular attendance on the lectures delivered at the royal college of
this place.
 Our domestic circle consisted of M. and Madame du B⸺, their
two sons and daughters, with the father and a sister of Madame B
⸺. Madame B⸺ was what, in England, we should call a notable
woman, who superintended personally the arrangements of
housekeeping. The colonel possessed a mechanical taste, which
with reading constituted his leading pursuit; he was a hearty feeder,
with, however, a supposed indifferent appetite; for instance, he
would breakfast, about noon, upon an immense quantity of bread
and cold meat, hard dried sausages, or rich fromage de cochon, with
a large bottle of wine, and afterward complain of a disinclination for
his dinner.

But perhaps the more interesting feature of the family group, was
Mademoiselle la Sœur. This lady, somewhat advanced beyond the
noontide of life, was a diminutive woman, with one eye, and largely
attached to the charms of tabac, which contributed to give her voice
a strong nasal tone; but in addition to this penchant for snuff, she
enjoyed also the pleasures of the table; was fond of high-seasoned
dishes, onions, garlic, and wine; her converse was of the merry kind;
she was fond of whispering into one’s private ear; and with these
talents, seemed also wonderfully adapted for sociality, as she
cultivated a large circle of acquaintance in the town, and made it a
rule to return with a whole budget full of news for our amusement.

Toulouse, in point of extent, is considered the third town in France,

but in proportion to that extent, far less populous than many other of
its cities: it possesses some good public buildings, as well as
modern private houses, but the general appearance is very
antiquated; the streets are narrow and dirty, and what is a great
annoyance in walking along them, when it rains you are almost sure
to be spouted upon from the tops of the houses, in consequence of
pipes sticking out to conduct the water towards the middle of the
streets.

There are in this city some good squares, particularly the Place
Royal, in which are situated the town-house and theatre; the Place
St. George; the Place St. Stephen, containing the cathedral; and
also the Place de Bourbon, which with its neighbourhood is the more
eligible point for the residence of a stranger.

Some of the walks around the town are very fine, but the access to
them unpleasant, in consequence of the offensive smells proceeding
from the narrow streets in their vicinity; this is particularly the case as
you approach the fine bridge over the Garonne.

Lodgings, such as they are, are reasonable, and the necessaries

of life, of all kinds, abundant, good, and cheap. The town is supplied
with water from the river; this indispensable article being carted
about in casks through the streets at all hours. The stranger will also
notice a number of asses, which are driven about the town, to supply
invalids with their milk.

I declined participating much in the society of the place, but both

the French and English residents are sociably inclined. It is not,
however, the fashion among the former, to make morning visits, or
give dinner parties, but their houses are open for their friends every
evening, and on appointed nights they visit in large parties, and
amuse themselves with conversation, singing, cards, or dancing.

A theatre was open during a part of the winter, and we had two or
three public concerts, as well as a variety of private ones by amateur
performers, particularly during the season of the carnival, which
finished on the 14th of February, and exhibited all its usual variety of
masks, grotesque characters, and buffoonery; these concerts were
only given on the Sunday afternoon.

There are a few customs, and points of etiquette, which it may be

interesting to notice.

When a stranger arrives at Toulouse, and wishes to enter into

society, he leaves his card with the prefect, who, after returning his
call, sends him invitations to the public parties, which he gives once
or twice in the week, when he has the opportunity of seeing the best
company of the place.
 On new-years-day, it is the custom (although I believe the same is
common to most parts of the continent) to call on all friends, and
present the ladies with fruits, toys, trinkets, or bon-bons, under some
ingenious deceptions, and which it is generally expected, will be
accompanied by a salute; therefore if you have an extensive
acquaintance, it is indispensable to set out, at an early hour, loaded
with smiles, compliments, and presents.

I scarcely feel competent to speak of the various ceremonies of

the Gallican church here, but when an Englishman dies, it is
customary to send the following notice, to the various residents from
his country, requesting their attendance at the funeral.

“M⸺

Vous êtes prié par M⸺ et M⸺ de leur faire l’honneur

d’assister à l’inhumation de M⸺ qui aura lieu le ⸺ à ⸺
heure du ⸺. Le convoi sortira de sa maison d’habitation.

Pax illi ⸺”

There is only one burial ground for Protestants, at Toulouse,

situated at some distance from the city.

Early in February, the news arrived of the death of our late

venerable and beloved king; the intelligence was received by the
English in this place, with every possible mark of respect, and a
public mourning immediately took place.

Soon afterward, the city of Toulouse was thrown into a high state
of consternation, in consequence of the assassination of the Duc de
Berri; the imaginations of the inhabitants recurred to the sanguinary
scenes of the French revolution, in which this town had no small
share, and anticipated a return of its horrors. After this event, the
following invitation was addressed to the various English residents:
 “Eglise reformée de Toulouse. Nos tres chers frères en Jesus
Christ.

Vous avez tous gémis sur l’horrible attentat commis sur la

personne de S. A. R. Monseigneur Le Duc de Berri, attentat
qui a privé la France et l’auguste famille des Bourbons, de
leur espoir le plus précieux; nous vous invitons à vous rendre
vendredi 24 de ce mois, à onze heure du matin, dans le
temple, pour exprimer, devant Dieu, la vive douleur que nous
en èprouvons.

Les Membres du Consistoire.

CHABRAND, President, &c. &c. &c.”

Toulouse, le 22 Mars, 1820.

This city abounds with beggars, many of them objects of real

charity; as it is impossible that persons with limited incomes, can
afford a sous for each, it is not unusual to give them one, and take
change out of it.

The winter proved unusually severe; from the middle of November

to the end of December, it continued wet; from this time to the latter
part of February, it was excessively cold; and at the end of January,
the ground was covered with snow for a fortnight together. For an
uninterrupted week, during some part of the twenty-four hours,
Fahrenheit’s thermometer stood at from 9° to 11° below Zero. The
Garonne for the first time for thirty years, was frozen over, the ice
being found to the thickness of nine inches. The end of March, and
beginning of April, however, became so fine and warm in the middle
of the day, as to make walking irksome.

I now began to contemplate breaking up my winter quarters, in

order to proceed to Montpellier. On inquiry, I found two modes of
conveyance to this place, one by the Grand Canal de Languedoc,
the other by diligence; and having made my arrangements for being
conveyed by the latter, I prepared, on the 13th of April, to bid adieu
to Toulouse.

I must not, however, leave this city, without paying a due tribute of
respect to the worthy family with whom I have been resident, whose
innumerable acts of kindness, and attention to a whimsical invalid,
will ever claim his gratitude.

But let me not exclude my English friends from this expression of

feeling. Mrs. W⸺ and Miss S⸺ are, in particular, entitled to my
sincerest acknowledgments; and who were not only the first to
receive me at Toulouse, but the last to take leave of me. They will
ever retain a place in the recollections of a grateful heart.
 CHAP. VI.
MONTPELLIER.

We left Toulouse in the afternoon, and travelling during the whole

night, reached Narbonne on the following day for dinner; at nine
o’clock in the evening we halted for a short time at Beziers, where
we were left, under cover from a heavy rain, in a kind of stable-yard,
while our conducteur transacted some business in the town. After
this we again proceeded throughout the night, and at day-break
arrived in sight of the Mediterranean Sea, afterward reaching
Montpellier about ten o’clock.

On leaving the coach, I accompanied a gentleman with whom I

had been acquainted at Toulouse, and who had been a fellow-
traveller on the present occasion, to his lodgings in this town; but on
his arrival, he met with the following disappointment. During his
absence, on legal business, he had permitted some friends to
occupy his rooms, one of whom happened to die in his best
chamber. Now it is customary in France, on such an occasion, to
burn the bedding and other furniture, and in case of this happening
in lodgings, the friends of the deceased are expected to pay for
them; the charge, in the present instance, was eight hundred francs,
and the furniture had not been replaced; my friend, therefore, was
induced to provide himself with fresh rooms: formerly this was not
the only tax upon the property of a foreigner who died in France, for
by the droit d’Aubaine, which has only been abolished since the
return of Louis xviii., his whole property became confiscated to the
King, under the erroneous idea that it must have been acquired in
his dominions.

For the first three days, I lived with this gentleman at his lodgings,
having however my sleeping-room at the Hotel de Midi; after which
time, I had the good fortune to place myself in the family of Madame
the Countess de M⸺, who occupied a noble mansion, agreeably
situated near the town, replete with every convenience, and
comprising beautiful gardens, embellished with terrace walks,
fountains, and a bosquet, where, to my surprise, the nightingale
sang all day long. For some reason or other, Madame found it
convenient to dispose of a part of her house; one portion was
occupied by two French officers with their families, and another by a
Russian officer. The suites of apartments were, however, perfectly
distinct, and there was little intercourse between the above and her
own family, which inhabited the better part of the house, and
consisted of herself, two daughters, and a relative, M. de C⸺.

I was exceedingly happy in this family, and with the friend who
accompanied me from Toulouse, made various excursions into the
surrounding neighbourhood; we particularly enjoyed the walks on the
banks of the river and lake, where the air was much cooler and more
agreeable, than on the road, at this time becoming dusty and
troublesome. The scenery, about two or three miles from the city, is
said to be romantically beautiful. On our return, we used,
occasionally, to take a warm bath, which was peculiarly refreshing,
and with respect to which, I noticed a luxury, which I had never
before remarked,—namely, a clean sheet thrown over the surface of
the bath, which you descend into, and are enveloped in.

There are also some delightful public walks about the town, as the
Perût, whence is a view of the Mediterranean, and Cevennes
mountains; the esplanade; and the botanic gardens. The city is also
surrounded by boulevards, of which I was able to make the tour in
forty minutes. The markets at Montpellier are well supplied with
meats and fish of all kinds; with poultry, vegetables, and fruits in
abundance. The vin ordinaire of the country, is termed vin de St.
George, which is good, and full bodied, and sold from the cask as
low as five or six sous the full quart bottle, although, after bottling
and refining, the wine merchant charges twenty sous for a small
wine quart. There is, however, another sort, termed vin de Lednon,
which is lighter, but highly flavoured, and consequently more
estimated, selling at thirty sous the bottle. A variety of other wines
may also be procured.

Montpellier has a theatre, to which it is singular that the officers in

the garrison here, are obliged to subscribe, whether they attend it or
not; besides the above, there are a great variety of other
amusements.

Madame de M⸺, and her eldest daughter, went one evening to

a ball given by general B⸺, where the young lady had the fortune
to make a conquest of an officer, with whom she danced; on the
following day he paid her a visit, and shortly after made his
proposals in form, which were accepted; after this, according to the
custom of that part of the country, he was considered as one of the
family, which was an additional pleasure to me, as he was a sensible
gentleman-like companion. The marriage, however, did not take
place until after my departure from Montpellier.

This love affair leads me to relate an affecting, romantic, and even

tragical incident, which occurred in the family of Madame M⸺,
during my residence with her.

Her youngest daughter, Clementine, was a lovely girl, about

seventeen years of age; but, alas! it is impossible that I can do
justice to charms which it was forbidden me to behold! A young
gentleman one day walking accidently near the house, observed this
interesting girl leading a goat, tied with a string, over a rising ground,
near the bosquet; struck with her beauty and simplicity, his
imagination took fire, and a passion the most ardent possessed his
soul; his constant delight was to wander near the spot which
contained the object of his affections, and amply was he repaid,
when he could thus steal a glimpse of her beloved form. But he was
soon compelled to tear himself away to prosecute his studies in
Paris; her image pursued him, and dwelt incessantly within his mind;
and he returned to Montpellier with unabated affection. The
diffidence so characteristic of pure and ingenuous love, prevented
him, for a time, from declaring his passion; at length, however, he
summoned sufficient resolution to demand an interview with the
countess, but as he refused to send up his name and object, she
declined seeing him; in a while he repeated the call, declaring that
he had something particular to communicate, but still refusing to give
his name; the countess consequently again refused to see him, but
sent Clementine to inquire the nature of his business.

Those who know how to love, may imagine his sensations, on

finding the object of his ardent passion, thus unexpectedly placed
before him; his perturbation amounted to a stupid confusion; he was
incapable of utterance; and the unconscious maid left him without
receiving the least explanation. His only consolation was now to
repeat his wanderings around her habitation. One night I was myself
alarmed by the sound of footsteps under my window, and for some
time laboured under the impression, that an attempt was making
upon the house. It was the unfortunate lover; who frequently spent
whole nights around the spot, where he first saw his adored
mistress.

On the morning of the 24th of June, I was disturbed from my

sleep, by the sound of many persons talking in the house and
garden, in a manner which convinced me that something dreadful
had occurred; I immediately hurried on my clothes, and hastened to
ascertain the cause, when, on opening the door of my room, which
led into the hall, Mademoiselle de M⸺ instantly advanced towards
me in tears, exclaiming, in the most pitiful tone, that a gentleman had
killed himself in the garden, and then proceeding with the following
relation: That her mother having risen early for the purpose of
bathing, while the bath was in preparation, had walked into the
garden in company with M. de C⸺, who was just returned from a
party in the town, with whom he had been passing the preceding
night; that, at this juncture, they saw through some bushes, a
gentleman sitting on the grass, and whom she was on the point of
approaching to accost, when he rose up, took out a large knife, and
plunged it into his breast. M. de C⸺ immediately sprang across
the path, exclaiming, “Mon Dieu! Mon ami, why have you done this!”
The only reply from the unfortunate man was, “Clementine!
Clementine!” The countess ran to procure assistance, and the whole
house was soon in confusion. The most sympathizing inquiries were
made into the motives for committing so rash a deed, when,
exhausted with loss of blood, he exclaimed, “Ah! Clementine! for you
I die! I feel you can never be mine, nor can I live without you!” He
was now conveyed to a neighbouring house; a surgeon and the
police officers soon arrived; the former reported, that the knife had
been turned aside by a rib, but that he was in imminent danger. The
police officer then proceeded in his duty, emptying his pockets, and
conveying their contents to the Bureau. A letter was found, directed
to Madame de M⸺, with another enclosed for Clementine, and I
was informed they were both written with very great propriety, and
expressive of his unhappy passion.

I quitted Montpellier a week after this event, at which time, the

unfortunate lover continued in a hopeless state.

Both as sources of amusement and instruction, I frequently

attended the lectures on chemistry, mineralogy, and botany, at the
college, and had reason to feel gratified by the general attention paid
me, both by the professors and students. Montpellier appears a most
desirable situation for prosecuting a course of study, as it abounds
with excellent public lectures, literary societies, and good libraries. In
short, it must be an agreeable winter’s residence under any
circumstances,—to those who wish to be gay, it offers a continual
routine of balls, plays, and other amusements, public as well as
private; and the valetudinarian will find as pure air, and agreeable
walks and rides, as he can desire.

The time I had allotted for my residence at this delightful place,

was now drawing to a close, and having provided a fresh supply of
Herries and Farquhar’s notes, from my punctual and obliging
bankers in London, I prepared to proceed to Aix in Provence, where I
proposed to bathe for the remainder of the summer, staying a few
days only at Nismes, on my way.

I shall avail myself of this opportunity of recommending to

travellers the superior advantages of Herries and Farquhar’s notes,
in preference to letters of credit, and which I cannot do better than
state in their own words.

“The object of this plan is to supply travellers with money,

whenever they may require it, without there being any necessity of
determining the route beforehand. For this purpose, a
correspondence is established with all the principal places of
Europe. The traveller is furnished with a general letter or order,
addressed to the different agents of the house, which letter, while it
serves to identify him, gives a claim to any attention or good offices
he may stand in need of.”

A variety of clear and explicit arrangements are made, to facilitate

the immediate supplies of the traveller, whenever he may need them;
and excellent precautions adopted, to prevent forgeries, impositions,
and the extravagant expenses, commissions, and discounts, which
attend the negotiation of bills on merchants’ houses.
 CHAP. VII.
NISMES.

A short time before my departure from Montpellier, I had the

misfortune to sprain my ancle, which abridged materially my usual
pleasure of walking, but did not prevent me pursuing my original
intention of proceeding to Aix.

M. de C⸺ was kind enough to accompany me to the coach, and,

with the best possible motives, recommended me to the care of the
passengers and conducteur, but which I must admit I would rather
have declined, as it disarmed me of that independence I wished to
feel; I fancied it was placing me in the light of a school-boy; or
perhaps of a package of “Glass.—Keep this side uppermost.” I would
prefer being treated with the little ceremony of a woolpack, which by
its accommodating elasticity, not only avoids injury from slighter
contact, but under more decided and ruder pressure, becomes so
solid, so confirmed, so compact, as effectually to oppose additional
restraint, and probably at length by its innate powers, to throw off the
superincumbent weight, and immediately regain its original state; in
short, I find less difficulty, and inconvenience, in travelling amongst
strangers, than people imagine, and prefer being left to my own
resources; habit has given me the power of acquiring, by a kind of
undefinable tact, as correct ideas of objects as the most accurate
descriptions would give; and unbiassed by the opinions of others, I
feel more facility in forming my estimates of human nature.

After an unpleasant journey, owing to the heat of the weather and

fulness of the coach, and passing through the neat town of Lunelle,
famous for its wines, we arrived about noon at Nismes, where I took
up my residence at a traiteur’s, in a particularly airy situation near the
esplanade; this situation I felt of importance, as from its position on
an extensive plain, this city suffers intolerably from the heats of
summer.

On the following day, being Sunday, I attended divine service at

one of the Protestant churches, in company with Mrs. and Miss L
⸺, with whom I had previously been acquainted at Toulouse and
Montpellier; we were shewn into the corporation seat, and I am
afraid gave much trouble to its proper occupiers, who, with great
politeness, incommoded themselves to accommodate us. We were
much pleased with the discourse of the preacher, as well as the
indications of devotion on the part of the congregation.

Nismes abounds with Protestants, who indeed constitute a large

proportion of its more industrious and opulent population; a
circumstance to which the sanguinary political scenes, of which it
has so frequently been the theatre, are to be attributed. The Roman
religion has undoubtedly a tendency to check the energetic industry
of its professors, by the encouragement which its numerous fêtes
give to habits of amusement, idleness, and dissipation; and, alas! it
is too correspondent with the dispositions of fallen human nature, for
rapine and fraud to spring out of such vitiated soil, and avail
themselves of the advantages attained by honest industry.

But far be it from me, to decry the importance of religious

observances, and rational relaxation from the toils of suffering
humanity; or to throw the least censure on that admirable and divine
institution, which, according to our admired Spectator, rubs off the
rust of the preceding week, and leads the poor man to a close
acquaintance with his best friend. The institutions of catholicism, or
rather papalism, are in this respect essentially contradictory to the
divine command, which has solemnly declared, amidst the awful
denunciations of Mount Sinai,—“Six days shalt thou labour; but the
seventh day is the sabbath of the Lord thy God;” for who of its more
strict professors does not pay as much religious observance to the
fifth day, as to the one indicated by the merciful Creator.

While at Nismes, my ancle proved extremely painful, and I felt

otherwise indisposed, so as to be incapable for a time of taking my
usual walks; I was, in consequence, induced to consult a French
apothecary, who had talked me into a favourable opinion of his skill,
by expatiating, in what I considered a philosophical way, upon the
virtues of his medicines. I was, consequently, placed upon a course
of ptisan refraichissant, without which French practice would be at a
loss, but which, begging the pardon of this French Æsculapius,
although it might do very well in mild cases, I should be loath to
intrust my safety to in a desperate one, where nature might possibly
want urging forward, or severe correction, rather than treating with
such a complaisance; so much for my smattering of physic: but,
notwithstanding, I must do my apoticaire the justice to admit, that
with the aid of his ptisan, and other means, I was in a few days
sufficiently improved to be able to resume, in some measure, my
customary walks.

Nismes, originally the Nemausum of the Romans, is a city of

considerable antiquity, of which sufficient remains are still to be
found, to attest its former grandeur.

I visited some of these august remains, particularly the celebrated

amphitheatre, built in the Tuscan order, of such size as to have been
capable of containing twenty thousand spectators. It is considered
one of the finest monuments of antiquity, and has survived the
ravages of nearly twenty centuries. I had also that exquisite piece of
Corinthian architecture described to me, now termed the Maison
Quarrée, which exhibits some of the most beautiful specimens of
architecture still existing, and which had been supposed by many to
have been built by the Emperor Hadrian, a great benefactor to this
city, but by an inscription, discoverable to that effect, is now proved
to have been erected by the good people of Nismes in honour of the
two young princes, Caius and Lucius Cæsar, grandsons of Augustus,
by his daughter Julia, the wife of Agrippa.

A number of peculiar large square basins, which the common

people use to bathe in, are to be seen at Nismes, near the public
walk named the Coursè; they are placed at equal distances from
each other, and formed by enlargements of a canal that runs through
them, the water supplying which, issues from under the rock on
which the castle stands; after passing through these reservoirs, the
stream is conducted, by pipes and smaller canals, throughout the
town, and converted to different purposes of economy and
manufacture.

Anxious for the benefit I expected to derive from the waters of Aix,
I hastened my departure from Nismes on the 11th of July. I had only
a single companion in the diligence, an interesting young student of
seventeen or eighteen years of age, on his way from college to meet
some friends at Beaucaire, and as highly delighted with his
emancipation from scholastic trammels, as a young midshipman at
going on shore after a long cruise. At one place we took a glass of
liqueur together, and on my offering to pay for it, he laughed at me,
and said I was joking. At eight o’clock we reached Beaucaire, where
he left me. At this place great preparations were making for the
annual fair, which lasts about three weeks, and is of much
importance, as merchants attend it from all parts of Europe.

We here crossed the Rhone on a bridge of boats, and proceeded

through Tarrascon. At midnight we stopped for supper, when a cold
chicken being produced, the conducteur contrived to dispose, with
great celerity, of the larger part of it, leaving only a leg and wing for
my share; after this, a most exorbitant demand was made upon me,
being charged with the whole fowl, and the bottle of wine, although I
had only shared a couple of glasses of the latter; but following the
example of my young friend the student, I joked them into reason,
and offering half the money, they thought proper to be contented with
it. I am convinced, from experience, that this is a better mode, than
arguing a point of charge passionately with a French innkeeper; hear
with patience his torrent of explanation, and then putting on your
gloves coolly, reply with a smile, “I dare say you are right, my good
friend, but I make it a rule never to pay so much, and cannot do it
now.” Above all, take care that you do not, like Smollet, give a louis
to change, and then ask them what you have to pay; first, get your
change, and then only part with your gold. But the best way of all to
prevent disputes, is to make a bargain beforehand.
 About seven in the evening I arrived at Aix, and had the pleasure
of meeting my friend Mr. W⸺, with a brother of his, lately arrived
from England, and also some of my fair countrywomen, with whom I
had been acquainted at Toulouse, and who had passed me at
Montpellier.
 CHAP. VIII.
AIX—MARSEILLES.

Mr. W⸺ pressed me to take up my residence at Aix with himself

and his brother, but I was still too anxious to pursue my studies of
the French language, and character, amongst the natives, to accept
of his offer; notwithstanding, it was impossible that I could have been
placed more satisfactorily to my feelings; his general information and
good sense, highly qualified him to impart knowledge, and his
uncommon urbanity of manners, made it particularly delightful to
receive it from him.

“How much in every state man owes

To what kind courtesy bestows,
To that benign engaging art,
Which decorates the human heart;
To every act it gives a grace,
And adds a smile to every face;
E’en goodness ’self we better see,
When drest by gentle courtesy.”

I availed myself, however, of my friend’s kindness, until I

succeeded in procuring accommodations in a French family,
accustomed to receive students in the law en pension. These
gentlemen, however, only made their appearance at meal-times, nor
did the resident family associate with us according to my
expectation; I felt disappointed, and after staying ten days
determined to change my quarters.

It was not easy to find a family like that of the Countess de M⸺,
at Montpellier, particularly at this season, when every one who could
afford to support the smallest establishment in the country, was, on
account of the excessive heat, gone out of town. At length I fixed
myself with Madame R⸺, the widow of an officer of dragoons, with
three children, the eldest a girl of fourteen. A rich old gentleman, her
cousin, M. B⸺, also resided with her, and they kept, in conjunction,
two carriages and three horses, and occupied three different country
houses.

I had the pleasure, one day, of accompanying Madame R⸺ on

horseback, to visit one of her country seats, and was not a little
surprised to find that she rode after the manner of gentlemen, with a
horse-cloth doubled under her, instead of a saddle. It is, however,
seldom that ladies in France ride on horseback, and they were not a
little astonished, after the peace, to see our fair countrywomen riding
in their usual manner with side-saddles, an accommodation they
were not familiar with. I must acknowledge, I should not have liked
exhibiting in the same way in Hyde Park; we did not, however, pass
through the town in this manner, for our horses were led out of it
before we mounted, and on our return, we dismounted before re-
entering it.

A few days after my arrival, I commenced using the mineral baths

of Aix, which I persevered in during my residence, and I think with
much advantage, although I could not bear drinking the waters,
which I fancied to be of a chalybeate nature; I endeavoured, but in
vain, to get a correct analysis of them; the resident physician,
appointed by government, either could not, or would not inform me;
he referred me to a large octavo volume, sold at the baths, but I
found it contain nothing except eulogies on their virtues, in almost
every disease to which the human body is incidental. The
temperature of the water is about 97° Fahrenheit.

The baths are situated in the Fauxbourg, or higher part of the

town; the best situation for the invalid who wishes to take advantage
of them, is near the Hotel de Prince, on the Coursé, which is the
pleasantest part of the town.

The Coursé, is a double walk, with rows of lime-trees on both

sides, and a carriage road between them; these walks form the
fashionable promenade of the place on a summer’s evening. There
are also good boulevards; Aix upon the whole, however, is defective
in public walks, and the streets are narrow and very dirty. It is far
from being an agreeable residence in summer, as the town is empty
and dull; and in winter it is cold, in consequence of its situation on an
extensive plain, exposed to the vents de bise from the neighbouring
mountains.

There is a line cathedral at Aix, one of the doors of which is

considered an exquisite piece of workmanship; in consequence, it is
preserved in a case, and a particular application required to get
admitted to a sight of it. I attended the service of the cathedral one
fête day, and heard some very fine vocal and instrumental music.

The college here is as famous for law, as that of Montpellier for

physic; and there is a public library which contains some English
books, presented by one of our countrymen. The town also
possesses a museum of natural history, and some good private
collections of paintings.

My intercourse was chiefly confined to the family with which I

resided, and a few English friends; I am, therefore, unable to say
much respecting the social habits of the place, but understood that it
was by no means defective in these respects; although there are no
public amusements during the summer, the winter brings with it
theatrical, and other entertainments.

Provisions are abundant and cheap, and the bread is so excellent

as to be sent in large quantities to other places.

I was anxious to visit the celebrated city of Marseilles, distant only

fifteen miles, and proceeded with Mr. H. W⸺, and another
gentleman, to put this design in execution; on our arrival we placed
ourselves at the Hotel des Ambassador, in the Rue Beauveau, near
the Place Moliere, where the theatre stands.

The commerce of this great mercantile city was at this time much
depressed, owing to the heavy duties imposed upon goods imported
by American vessels; which however they managed to evade, in
some degree, by unshipping their cargoes at Nice, or Genoa, into
French coasters.

We visited the coral manufactory; the corals used in which, are

said to be very fine, and brought by the fishermen direct from the
coast of Barbary; I should have been glad to have purchased some,
but was apprehensive of imposition, and, moreover, found that I
could not take them into Italy, and elsewhere, without paying very
heavy duties, or incurring great risk of seizure.

It is customary at Marseilles, for the inhabitants in great numbers,

to go to the outsides of the harbour early in the morning to bathe, for
which purpose the females take the left hand, and the men the right.
We were induced to follow this good example, and found the bathing
delightful; we were carried by boats into about five feet water, with a
fine sandy bottom, and steps were then thrown out to enable us
conveniently to get into the water, and out again; but I preferred
throwing myself from off the gunwale and diving for some yards,
after which, I swam out to sea, to the astonishment of my friends and
the surrounding strangers, who were rendered sensible of my loss of
sight, by my occasionally calling out to ascertain the direction of the
boat.

On the eve of our return to Aix, Mr. H. W⸺, a spirited young

naval officer, determined to repeat his bathing in the close of the
evening, and notwithstanding our solicitations to the contrary,
insisted upon going alone, although quite unacquainted with the
French language. His impetuosity led him into an adventure, which
might have terminated in fatal results, and, at all events, compelled
us to hasten our departure, under circumstances in some degree
equivocal. On quitting his boat, he offered the man who belonged to
it, the same remuneration he had on former occasions paid, which
however was refused; my friend walked off, and the man followed
him, talking loudly in an unintelligible manner; at length he laid hold
of him by the skirt of his coat, when W⸺, turning round, knocked
him down; a mob soon collected, who taking the boatman’s part,
proceeded to beat our young friend most unmercifully, and probably
would have murdered him, had not some gentlemen interfered and
extricated him; one of these had the kindness to accompany him
home, and requested we would not venture into the streets, until the
affair had been arranged with the police, to whom he offered to
accompany us on the following morning. We acknowledged his
kindness, but concealed our intention of quitting Marseilles at five
o’clock in the morning; in short, we thought it better to avail
ourselves of this chance of getting rid of the affair, not however,
without some apprehension of being pursued.

In fact, in two or three days after our return to Aix, it was

announced, that a person from Marseilles was enquiring for two
gentlemen who had lately been at the Hotel des Ambassador, in that
place; we immediately pictured to our imaginations, a police officer,
with a warrant in his hand, but it proved to be one of the waiters, who
had called to apprise us of a mistake of six francs, against us, in
making out our bill, which we paid with much satisfaction, as
flattering ourselves that we had now fully outwitted the police.

The month of September having considerably advanced, and the

weather becoming sensibly colder, I began to think of suspending
the use of the hot baths, and removing to a milder climate. I had the
pleasure, however, of thinking my health materially improved, my
eyes in particular felt lighter, and I fancied that I could occasionally
discern a flash of light from the under part of the left one. I selected
Nice for my winter’s residence, and on the 14th of September left Aix
in the diligence, for Antibes, taking leave of the last town in France,
where I proposed making any extended residence.

It is not easy to describe my emotions in quitting a people, with

whose language and habits I was now becoming well acquainted,
and to whom I felt a degree of attachment, grounded, if not upon
congeniality of sentiment, at least upon a grateful sense of repeated
acts of kindness, and attention, which I had experienced from them.

It is true, that I was fully alive to all the anticipated enjoyments of a

land of promise; the favoured Italy, highly gifted by nature and art;
the cradle of genius; the birth-place of poets, orators, and warriors;
and once the sole arbitress of the fate of the world.

I sought consolation in reflections of this nature, and in repeating

the lines of a favourite poet.

“Hope must brighten days to come

While memory gilds the past.”
 CHAP. IX.
JOURNEY TO NICE.

On leaving Aix, our coach, besides myself, contained two

gentlemen, sons of General M⸺, who had been residing for eight
years at a college near Toulouse. We breakfasted at Luc, where we
took up two or three more passengers; from hence we passed on to
Frejus, and thence over the Estralès, formerly noted for numerous
banditti. At Cannes General M⸺ came out with his daughter, in his
carriage, to meet his sons, whom we here parted from. The
remaining passengers also quitted us about this time, so that before
we entered Antibes I had the whole carriage to myself.

At Antibes I got my passport signed, to enable me to enter his

Sardinian majesty’s dominions; but this gave little trouble, as a
person negotiated the affair for the remuneration of one franc.

I remained at the inn where the diligence put up, in consequence

of finding that the one for Nice set off from it on the following
morning. I got my supper at the table d’hôte, in company with two or
three officers; the fare was very indifferent, and the charge
exorbitant, in consequence of not having made my bargain
beforehand.

After supper I retired early to bed, in hopes of compensating for

my loss of sleep on the preceding night in the coach; but, alas! I
reckoned without my host, for it proved a night of misery; a multitude
of mosquitoes tormented me without intermission, and with joy did I
welcome the arrival of the moment, which announced that the
diligence was preparing to depart.

At four o’clock we left the inn, but the town-gates were yet closed,
and some time elapsed before they were opened to us; at length an