Savouringthewhales Int
Savouringthewhales Int
Savouringthewhales Int
Hakodate is one of
By Eric Johnston the most beautiful cities in Japan and has a
long association with whales – it was the
Foreign visitors to Japan can find a variety
port where Japanese whaleships used to
of sandwiches not available at most local
land their catches.
fast food restaurants back home, but
Lucky Pierrot, a restaurant chain based in Now the city is a popular destination for
the port of Hakodate, has decided to Japanese tourists wanting to escape the
increase its range of products. It is now sweltering summers in other parts of the
selling whaleburgers, burgers made with country. Shops across the harbour provide
whale meat. them with a range of seafood; huge frozen
whole salmon, live crabs and a package
The restaurant serves 16 different varieties
clearly labelled "whale bacon". Beside it
of hamburgers and 10 different kinds of
sits a small can of something called "red
curry and 12 different kinds of ice cream.
meat" in Japanese. When I ask him, a
Almost everyone in the shop, near the
fishmonger says it means whale.
waterfront in Hakodate, is around high
school or college age. It's nearly 3.30pm Traditionally, coastal cities in Japan have
and the friendly owner had told me the day been the main market for whale meat. But
before that, as only 20 whaleburgers a day many older Japanese living in the big
were available, they could be sold out by cities also have good memories of whale
the time I arrived. meat. Just after the Second World War,
there wasn’t much food and people were
I go to the counter and find that I'm in
starving to death in cities like Tokyo.
luck. After paying for the order and
Whale meat kept many people alive. In
receiving a ticket (number 97), I sit down
addition, whale oil was given to a
and wait for my number to come up.
generation of Japanese children as a
When the whaleburger arrives, it is deep
vitamin supplement.
fried and placed on a bun with lettuce and
mayonnaise. It is black and chewy. The It is this combination of postwar memories
cost is 380 yen ($3.35). I look around to and a desire to preserve the ancient
see if I am the only one eating a whale. It traditions of coastal whaling that is
seems that I am. making whale meat more popular. But
while Lucky Pierrot may be unique in
Selling whaleburgers was not originally
selling it in burger form, whale meat in
Lucky Pierrot's idea. Earlier this year the
Hakodate is quite common. The ninth day
restaurant sent out a survey asking
of each month is "Whale Day", when
customers what new foods they would like
shops and local restaurants offer
to see on the menu. The responses to the
reductions on their usual prices.
survey showed that most people wanted
"Ghengis Khan" burgers. In Japanese- Later I meet with Inge Arnold, a young
English, this means thin strips of Australian woman, and her friend
barbecued lamb, which is very popular in Takashige Arai at a local sushi restaurant.
the province of Hokkaido. The second Arnold, who worked briefly in the
most popular choice was whale. Hakodate fish market, doesn’t eat the
whale sushi we ordered. But Arai and I eat
Whaling has a long history in Japan, and
it. This whale meat is different from the
whale meat is easy to find in any port,
whaleburger. It is red, tender and juicy,
such as Hakodate, so it is perhaps not
and has a taste, we agree, that is
surprising that somebody would start
somewhere between tuna and mackerel.
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