IFTK

MODULE I – V

 UNIVERSITY QIESTIONS (EXTRA)

FUNDAMENTALS OF
PRODUCTION - II
MANUFACTURING PROCESS
14FD3507

V SEM

SAM B.TECH, M.TECH, MISTE

 MODULE I
Introduction to Textile Industry
1.1. Industry Infrastructure and its Profile
± India is among the world's largest producers of textiles and apparel.
± The domestic apparel & textile industry in India contributes approx. 4%
to the country’s GDP, 13% to industrial production and 12% to exports.
± India is one of the largest producers of cotton and jute in the world and
the 2nd largest producer of silk in the world and also 3rd largest exporter
of textiles & apparel globally.
± 12% of the world’s production of textile fibers and yarn.
± 25% share in the world trade of cotton yarn.
± 23% of the world’s spindle capacity.
± 61% in world loom.
± India has a 4% share of the global trade in textiles and apparel.
± After agriculture, this industry provides direct employment of 45 million
peoples. Besides, another 100 million peoples in allied industries.
± In garment production, almost 33 % of its knitwear production and about
20% of its woven.
± Overall about 25% of the volume of its garment production goes into
export markets, leaving 75% for domestic consumption.
± Fibre-wise, 80% of the production is of cotton garments, 15% of
synthetic/mixed garments and the rest of silk and wool garments.
± In recent times the textile and apparel industry is spread over in all parts
of India.
± Major Textiles Hubs in India
 Gujarat
 Maharashtra
 Uttar Pradesh
  West Bengal
 Tamil Nadu
 Madhya Pradesh
 Rajasthan
± Major Apparel Hubs in India
 Tirupur
 Ludhiana
 Bengaluru
 Delhi / Noida / Gurgaon
 Mumbai
 Kolkata
 Jaipur
 Indore

1.2. Structure of Indian Textile Industry

(1) The organized mill sector

 The organized sector of the textile industry represents the mills.
 It could be a spinning mill or a composite mill.
 Composite mills are those where all the activities i.e spinning,
weaving and processing facilities are carried out in the same building.
 (2) The unorganized decentralized sector
 The unorganized decentralized sector is engaged mainly in the
weaving (power loom and handloom), knitting, hosiery and yarn and
fabric processing activity, which makes it heavily dependent on the
organized sector for their yarn requirements.
 In addition to the above, there are readymade garments, khadi as well
as carpet manufacturing units in this sector.

1.3. Different Textile Sectors in India

The Man-Made Fiber / Yarn and Power loom Sector
 This part of industry includes fiber/yarn manufacturing units.
 The Power looms sector is decentralized and plays a vital role in Indian
Textiles Industry.
 It produces large variety of cloths to fulfill different needs of the
market.
 The sector contributes around 62% of the total cloth production in the
country and provides employment opportunities to 4.86 million people.
The Cotton Sector
 Cotton is one of the major sources of employment and contributes in
export in promising manner.
 This sector provides huge employment opportunities to around 50
million people related activities like Cultivation, Trade, and
Processing.
 India’s Cotton sector is second largest producer of cotton products in
the world.
The Handloom Sector
 The handloom sector plays a very important role in the country’s
economy.
  It is the second largest sector in terms of employment, next only to
agriculture.
 This sector accounts for about 13% of the total cloth produced in the
country (excluding wool, silk and Khadi).
The Woolen Sector
 The Woolen Textile sector is an Organized and Decentralized Sector.
 The major part of the industry is rural based.
 India is the 7th largest producer of wool, and has 1.8% share in total
world production.
 The share of apparel grade is 5%, carpet grade is 85%, and coarse
grade is 10% of the total production of raw wool.
 The Industry is highly dependent on import of raw wool material, due
to inadequate production.
The Jute Sector
 The Jute industry occupies an important place in the national economy of
India.
 It is estimated that that the jute industry provides employment to 3.5 lakh
workers.
 Jute is called Golden fiber and after cotton it is the cheapest fiber
available.
 Indian Jute Industry is the largest producer of raw jute and jute products
in the world.
 India is the second largest exporter of jute goods in world.
The Sericulture and Silk Sector
 The Silk industry has a unique position in India, and plays important
role in export.
 India is the 2nd largest producer of silk in world and contributes 18%
of the total world raw silk production.
  In India Silk is available with varieties such as, Mulberry, Eri, Tasar,
and Muga.
 Sericulture is an important labor intensive and agro-based cottage
industry, providing gainful occupation to around six million persons in
rural and semi-urban areas in India.
The Handicraft Sector
 The Indian handicrafts industry is highly labor intensive, cottage based
and decentralized industry.
 It plays a significant & important role in the country’s economy
employing more than 7 million people.
 It provides employment to avast segment of craft persons in rural &
semi urban areas and generates substantial foreign exchange for the
country, while preserving its cultural heritage.

1.4. Textile Organizations

 The Ministry of Textiles
 Advisory Bodies
 Export Promotion Councils
 Autonomous Bodies
 Statutory Bodies
 Textiles Research Associations
Ministry of Textiles
The following are the principal functional areas of the Ministry:
 Textile Policy & Coordination
 Man-made Fiber/ Filament Yarn Industry
 Cotton Textile Industry
 Jute Industry
 Silk and Silk Textile Industry
 Wool & Woolen Industry
  Decentralized Power loom Sector
 Export Promotion
Advisory Bodies
 All India Handlooms Board
 All India Handicrafts Board
 All India Power looms Board
 Co-ordination Council of Textiles Research Association
 Cotton Advisory Board
Export Promotion Councils
 Apparel Export Promotion Council, New Delhi
 Carpet Export Promotion Council, New Delhi
 Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council, Mumbai
 Export Promotion Council for Handicrafts, New Delhi
 Handloom Export Promotion Council, Chennai
 Indian Silk Export Promotion Council, Mumbai
 Power loom Development & Export Promotion Council, Mumbai
 Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council, Mumbai
 Wool & Woolen Export Promotion Council, New Delhi
Textiles Research Associations
 Ahmedabad Textiles Industry’s Research Association
 Bombay Textiles Research Association, Mumbai
 Indian Jute Industries Research association, Kolkata
 Man-made Textiles Research Association, Surat
 Synthetic and art silk –Mills Research Association, Mumbai
 Wool Research Association, Thane
 Northern India Textiles Research Association, Ghaziabad
 South India Textiles Research Association, Coimbatore
1.5. SWOT Analysis of Indian Textile & Apparel Industry
± SWOT analysis is a strategic planning method used to evaluate the
Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities, and Threats
± Strength: internal attributes and resources that support a successful
outcome.
± Weakness: internal attributes and resources that work against a
successful outcome.
± Opportunities: external factors the project can capitalize on or use to its
advantage.
± Threats: external factors that could risk the project.
Strengths
 Strong cotton base
 Strong entrepreneurial class
 Flexibility in production of small order lots
 Ability to handle value additions
 Adequate labor supply at relatively competitive wages
 Good "cultural" comfort with US and Europe
 Growing domestic market
Weakness
 Poor work practices
 Rigid government labor policy
 High transaction and power cost
 Too much emphasis on cotton, synthetic fiber base not equally
developed
 Fabric/processing still to gear up to meet international standards
 Technological obsolescence
 A lack of strong linkages between raw material supplier and the apparel
manufacturer.
Opportunities
 Quotas carried on in china after 2005.
 Good political equation with EU and US.
 Improvements in infrastructure and regulations.
 Research and product development
 Buyers preference for India, after China
Threats
 Rupee appreciation/depreciation
 Trade blocs and partnerships at the exclusion of India.
 Location disadvantage: long transit time to key markets.
 Pricing pressure, following opening up of quotas
 Enhanced competition from other countries

1.6. Apparel Distribution Channel / Apparel Supply Chain

Textile producers

Apparel manufacturers

Wholesalers

Retailers

Consumers
 A textile producer purchases the raw material (yarn), produces the product and
sells the finished product (fabric) to apparel manufacturers.
 Apparel manufacturers purchases raw material (fabric), makes the product and
sells the finished product (garment) to wholesalers / or retailers.
 The wholesalers buy apparel goods usually directly from manufacturers.
 The retailers buy apparel goods from wholesalers or directly from manufacturers.
 The retailers sell the apparel goods to many different consumers.
 Consumer is someone who uses the goods.
1.7. Organization Structure of an Apparel Industry

1.8. Work Flow of Garment-Manufacturing Unit (Fabric Inspection to

Finishing)
Fabric & Accessories in-house - Raw material Inspection

Spreading

Marker Making

Cutting - In process Inspection

Sorting and Bundling

Sewing

Pressing and Finishing

Packing - Final Inspection

Fabric & Accessories in-house
Fabric spreading
 In this stage, fabric is spread on table properly for cutting.
 It is done by manually/computerized.
Marker making
 It is a very thin paper which contains all the parts of a particular garment.
 Marker making process is done by manually/ computerized.
Cutting
 The fabric is cut according to the marker dimensions.
 This process is done by manually/computerized.
Sorting and Bundling
 The cut fabrics are then sorted and bundled according to their size and
color.
 This process is done by manually.
Sewing
 In this section, all the parts of a garment are joined.
 Sewing process is done by manually.
Pressing and Finishing
 After sewing process, the garments are pressed and are added such as
thread loose cutting, tag attaching etc.
 This process is done by using manually.
Packing
 Complete garments are packed by using buyer instructed poly bag and
carton box.
 This process is done manually.
Inspection
 It is the visual examination process.
 This process occurs from raw material stage (fabric) to finished product
stage (garment)
 Importance of Design in Production

1.9. Designers Role in Producing Functional & Production Friendly

Designs
Functional Designs
 As a Designer, need to take care about the latest trend and creative design
according to the industry demands.
 Unlike Designer, Functional clothing is a big term where, garments were
design according to the requirement of the Customer.
 The requirement can be anything, for comfort, performance or may be
according to the environment, he or she lives in.
 Garments are designed with Physical Aspect and Performance Aspect.
 Physical Aspects is how the garment looks like whereas Performance
Aspect is what the garment does.
 Physical aspects of the garment regulate its performance. Therefore,
consumer attracts those garments which they believe will fulfill both
aspects.
Production Friendly Clothing
 A large part of product costs is determined by the material and
specification choices of the Designer. Many Designer use double Ply
threads to increase the tendency of the Garments.
 Standardize designs are right tool to identify the design without spec
sheet which reduces the cost while production. For example, ready to
wear clothes have less cost because of the standard design identification.
 Collaborates with manufacturers help in reducing cost of production. As
source the fabric, trims and identify the quality of the fabric, which helps
in reducing cost 5%.
  When choose innovative packaging, it reduces the cost of butter paper,
collar support, and back support. This is very important for designer to
select innovative packaging.
 Using local trims and fasteners can cut the cost too much. Pockets,
underlining and finishing can be reducing in heavy fabric.
 Garments can be reversible. Inner lining could be interesting with the
waste fabric, patch work, and can be use further.
 Labors can be skilled and professional, so that it reduces the wastage of
fabric. It becomes very helpful for the designer, not to think too much
about cost cutting.
 Pattern master and flat illustrator should be accurate, so that could help in
cutting less fabric and saving more wastage of fabric.
 Make bags, accessories, and shoes with the waste material like extra
fabric, trims, yarns, fasteners, buttons, etc.

1.10. Process involved in Designing a Design Sheet

 Predicting Trends:
One of the hardest skills is that a fashion designer has to master in
predicting future trends. Designers have to work about 12 months in
advance. Through market research they choose and form a collection.
 Planning the Collection:
After predicting every collection are studied and researched. Then
finally they plan for the new collection.
 Mood Board/ Ideation/ Inspiration
Designer will compile a collection of ideas/inspiration into a mood
board that represents the aesthetic behind the design.
 Fashion Illustration or Sketch
Designer will use a croqui to begin sketching out the ideas for the
garment based on the finished mood board.
 Technical Sketch
Designer will create a CAD design. Technical Sketch is the
blueprint for the design, so it’s important that the sketch reflects the
correct construction of the garment.
 Tech Pack
Technical Sketch will then be used to create a Tech Pack for the
garment. Designer will use the silhouette and design to determine the
construction details and specs. They will work with the sourcing agent to
come up with fabric and trim options. Once the details have been
finalized, the Tech Pack is sent out for factory and fabric sourcing.
 Sourcing
Procurement of fabric, trims and accessories
 Sampling
Sample is the model of the garment, upon what the buyer can
decide on how and whether to confirm the order or not. Sampling plays
an important role in attracting buyers and confirming export order.
  Fit and Review
Technical Designer will need to review the sample and adjust the
Tech Pack as necessary. Continue this cycle of [Tech Pack -> Sample ->
Review -> Update Tech Pack -> Send] until happy with the final
prototype.
 Design Approval
Approve the design and request a TOP (Top of Production Sample)
and/or PP (Pre-Production Sample)
 Production
Once the design has been approved, bulk garments will be
produced on the factories.

1.11. Predetermined Motion Time System (PMTS)

± The primary object of PMTS software was to establish an accurate
standard time of manual works in the sewn product industry.
± It is a work measurement technique that analyses the basic human
movements required to perform specific manual tasks in a given
environment.
± To create a predetermined time system, an observer collects data by
videotaping a task performed once according to specifications. This
recording is then broken down into a step-by-step process.
± The time it takes to perform the basic motions of each step is extracted
from a database of time values that have been validated over decades of
careful study and analysis.
± 7 reasons for apparel businesses need a PMTS system
 To establish accurate Standard Time (Product SAM)
 To calculate accurate labour cost
 To benchmark factory efficiency and Line Efficiency
 To establish SAM prior to the production or sampling is initiated
  To improve the operational method and processes
 To improve capacity planning
 To train industrial engineers on time and motion study

1.12. Counter Sample

 Counter sample can be defined as the copy of the original and signed
sample.
 In case, approved samples are not available when needed or the sample
required by the different teams at the same time, the factory can refer the
counter sample by giving internal merchandising or quality team.
 Especially the pre-production sample (PP Sample) is a very important one
to factory merchandising team, quality team and production team. At
some point, every department needs to refer to the PP sample. But the
factory gets only one approved PP sample the buyer. So when needed to
share the counter sample with the factory team.
 Secondly, the buyer intimates factory about approvals the sample by mail
after checking and approving the PP Sample. But factory receives the
signed sample after a couple of days. To start the bulk production without
delay factory follow the counter sample.
 Some merchandisers always keep one reference sample in their locker. In
case sealed and signed sample is lost they refer to that counter sample.
 Counter sample is not signed by buyer. Normally counter sample is
locally signed by merchandiser.

1.13. Pre-Production Process

Pre-production process is planning that is done prior to the bulk garment
production. That includes samples development and approvals, sourcing and
testing raw materials, garment costing, pattern making, and process planning.
1.14. Fabric Selection
 Fabrics used in garment manufacturing can be categorized into two
groups:
(1) Properties
(2) Characteristics
Physical Properties of Fabrics
 Fiber
 Yarn
 Weight
 Thickness
 Fabric structure
 Finishes
 Fabric width
 Color
 Fabric density
 Surface contour
Physical Characteristics of Fabrics
1. Style characteristics
2. Utility characteristics
3. Durability characteristics
4. Product production characteristics
1. Style characteristics
 Style characteristics are those changes which affect the emotional appeal,
the fabric imparts to the consumer.
 The three basic categories for style characteristics are:
1. Hand
2. Tactile
3. Visual
2. Utility characteristics
 Utility characteristics are changes in the fit, comfort, and wearing
functions of the garment when the fabric engages a mechanical thermal,
electrical, or chemical force during the utilization of the garment.
 The two major types of utility characteristics are transmission and
transformation.
  A transmission characteristic transmits mass or energy through the
fabric. Transmission characteristics include:
1. Air permeability
2. Heat transmission
3. Light permeability
4. Moisture transmission
 Transformation characteristics change a physical property of the
fabric. The property dimension(s) is altered without destroying the
fabric. Transformation characteristics include:
1. Color fastness
2. Crease resistance
3. Crock resistance
4. Dimensional stability
5. Pilling
6. Shrinkage
7. Static electricity etc.
3. Durability characteristics
 Durability characteristics are the capacities of fabric to maintain the style.
 The durability characteristics are:
1. Abrasive strength
2. Bursting strength
3. Launder ability
4. Tearing strength
5. Tensile strength
6. Fire resistance
7. Corrosive strength
8. Dry cleaning durability
4. Product production characteristics
 Product production working characteristics are those characteristics
which affect the quality of production with respect to quality values and
the cost of production method.
 The working characteristics of a fabric include:
1. Seam strength
2. Seam slippage
3. Sewing distortions
4. Bond ability strength

1.14.1. Selection of fabrics for women

(a) Women’s skirts
 Women's skirts are cut on straight, the bias, or circularly from the
same fabrics that are used for dresses and suits.
 The fit or, more particularly the hang of skirt is important.
 A skirt should not wrinkle below the waistband and should be even
at hem.
(b) Women’s sweaters
 The sweater, a knitted of garment for the upper part of the body,
has long been a staple for both casual and dressy wear.
(c) Blouses
 Wash - and - wear blouses is important in any women's wardrobe.
 Fabrics that resist wrinkling are those made of
 polyesters, and
 Blends of polyester and cotton (65/35%),
 polyester and rayon (55% or more polyester with rayon),
 50% or more polyester with acrylic
 80% or more acrylic with cotton or 55% or more acrylic with
wool.
 100% rayon and 100% silk
 (e) Women's undergarments
 Consist of soft, lightweight, attractive, minimum.
 Rayon, acetate, nylon, synthetics elastic fibres in blends, and any
kind of lightweight cotton or blend in plain weaves or knitted.
 Common fabrics used for lingerie include nylon tricot mesh, crepe
and satin.
(f) Sleep wear
 Gowns, pyjamas, and coat - and - gown or coat - and - pyjama sets
can be tailored or lace trimmed.
 Some common fabrics used for gowns and pyjamas are rayon,
acetate, silk crepe, silk pongee, cotton, pllisse, batiste, some
chiffons and georgettes, cotton knits, and nylon and rayon tricot.
1.14.2. Selection of fabrics for men's wear
(a) Shirt
 Shirt may be classified according to the occasion for which they
are worn:
 Dress
 Work
 Sports and
 Formal
 Dress shirts are usually all white, solid colored or stripped. For
work shirts khaki, dark blue or blacked are common colors.
 All cotton or polyester and cotton blends are commonly used for
shirting.
 Best quality fabric for shirt is produced from combed cotton of
count, mercerized, and shrinkage controlled.
 Sports shirts may be white, solid colored, plaids, stripes or checks.
  Work shirts for utility wear are made of sturdy fabrics, such as
mercerized cotton twill, polished cotton, a blend of 65% dacron
polyester and 35% cotton poplin.
 Blend of 17% nylon and 83% cotton twill, 65% dacron polyester
and 35% combed cotton gabardine, cotton denim and cotton drill.
 Shirts for formal wear are usually pleated or plain, with a starched
or soft. Fabrics include pique, broad cloth, silk or synthetic fibered
crepe, and blends.

1.15. Strike-off
 The specimen or swatch submitted to buyer for print colours approval is
known as print strike-off or simply strike-off.
 During sample development or prior to production printing, suppliers
develop these strike-offs from a printer (printing house).
 For strike-off sample printing, actual production fabric and actual base
colour is used.
 Like lab dip approval process, supplier internally matches colours of
print design in light box prior to submitting strike-offs.
 MODULE – II

2.1. TRIMS
 The materials or components except the main fabric used in the garments
are called trims.
 Trims include Sewing Thread, Button, Zipper, Velcro, Label, Shoulder
pad, Linings, Interlinings, etc.
 Trimmings or trims are of two types namely visible trims and invisible
trims.
 Some trims are used for functional purposes and some are for decorative
purposes in garments.
2.1.1. Trims Types
Sewing Threads
It is available in many forms of packages. The threads are wound
on these packages with a minimum of 180 meters (spool) to maximum of
5000 meters (cone). The count of the sewing thread yarn is generally
2/40S or 3/60S. The ticket number ranges from 40 to 80 are preferred for
garment sewing.

Buttons
One of the most common methods used to join two pieces of a
garment is to apply buttons and button holes. These are especially
effective at sleeve cuts, centre fronts of jackets, coats, blouse and shirts.
In men‟s wear the buttons are place on the right side (the under
lap), in women‟s clothing, the left side is the under lap and buttons are
placed on the left. Buttons are also used for decoration purpose. The
button sizes are mentioned as “Ligne – L” Ex. 18 L, 20L, 24L.
Zipper
The zippers are used extensively as closures in shirts, shorts, skirts
etc... Zippers length varies from 4 inch to 24 inches and it can be cut to
any length. Zippers are available in synthetic material and metals. Plastic
zippers used in various for decorating the outfits. Metal zippers are most
commonly found in heavy duty applications and nylon zippers are found
in light weight apparels.

Labels:
Label is an attached component of garment on which important
information regarding the garment are written or printed. No garment can
be sold without some kind of label attached to it. Specially, in case of
export business label on garment is must.
Main label: Main label contains brand name or trade name of buyer
which is registered by the buyer e.g. Levi‟s, Polo, Adidas, GAP, Lewis
Philippe, etc.
Size label: It indicates the size of the garment i.e. S, M, L, XL,
XXL, or collar length of shirt 15, 16, 17, 18, etc.
Care label: It contains the care instructions of the garment by some
internationally recognized signs. It shows the washing, drying, dry-
cleaning and ironing conditions of garments.
Shoulder Pad:
The trim is used in a tailored garment for both women and men.
They enhance the appearance of the garment making it attractive and
comfortable for a long time and protect the shoulder from wear and tear.
Shoulder pads are used for both functional and decorative purposes.
There are multiple materials used to make shoulder pads with foam being
the most popular material. Linings are used on the top and bottom of
shoulder pad. It is widely used in coats, blouses, etc.

Hangtags
Hangtags are the labels attached to clothing which usually contain
the basic information about the item. Size, price, brand… all this can be
found on the hangtag. A hang tag is a small cardboard or plastic label that
hangs from an item of clothing and gives information such as size, colour,
fabric, and price.

Snap Fastener:
A snap fastener (also called snap, popper, and press stud) is a pair
of interlocking discs commonly used in place of buttons to fasten
clothing. A circular lip under one-disc fits into a groove on the top of the
other, holding them fast until a certain amount of force is applied. Snaps
can be attached to fabric by hammering (using a specific punch and die
set), plying, or sewing.
Hook and Loop Fastener (Velcro):
This item consists of two woven poly-amide tapes; one is covered
with very fine hooks and the other with very fine loops. When pressed
together they adhere (stick) securely to each other. This fastener is also
used instead of buttons or zippers. e.g. shoes, belts, sportswear, children
wear, medical textiles, etc. Velcro is available in roll form in the market
which has most common width of 5/8 to 3/4 inch.

Hook and Eye Closure:

A hook-and-eye closure is a clothing fastener that consists of two
parts, each sewn to their respective pieces of cloth, one with a small blunt
hook, and the other with a small loop (also known as the “eye” or
“eyelet”). To fasten the garment, the hook is slotted into the loop. Hook-
and-eye closures are typically used in groups to provide sufficient
strength to bear the forces involved in normal wear. Hook-and-eye
closures are commonly used in corset.
 Pocketing Fabric:
A shaped piece of fabric attached inside or outside a garment and
forming a pouch used vis a vis for carrying small articles. For pocketing,
cotton fabric is mostly used in garments.

2.2. INTERLINING
 Interlining is one kind of accessories that is used between the two layers of
fabric in a garment.
 It is made cotton, nylon, polyester, wool and viscose (woven, knitted or a
non-woven fabric)
 Interlining is generally used in collar, cuffs, waist band, placket, hood etc.
 The interlining which is used between two layers of fabrics by applying heat
and pressure for a certain time is called Fusible Interlining.
 The interlining which is used between two layers of fabrics directly by
sewing without heat and pressure is called non-fusible interlining.

2.3. FUSING
 In clothing industry, it refers to the joining of an interlining material to a
fabric component.
 A base fabric (Interlining material), otherwise called a substrate. Base fabric
surface coated on one side with a thermoplastic adhesive resin melted by
heating into the fabric under pressure and time and when it becomes cool;
both fabric and interlining are attached strongly.
Striking Back
 When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing,
it must have control of the temperature and pressure.
 If pressure and heat are not properly controlled, the resin originally
applied to the interlining can pass through the lower part of the fabric.
This is called “strike back”.
Striking Through
 When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing,
it must have control of the temperature and pressure.
 If pressure and heat are not properly controlled, the resin originally
applied to the interlining can pass through the upper part of the fabric.
This is called “strike through”.

2.4. VARIOUS TYPES OF RESINS USED & THEIR WASH

INSTRUCTIONS

 Polyethylene: Suitable for wash and wear garments, washable and Dry-
cleanable. Their main use is in interlinings for shirt collars.
 Polypropylene: Similar in properties to high density polyethylene but
reaches its softening point at a higher temperature.
 Polyamide: Lower melting ranges they are Dry-cleanable. It is widely
used in Dry-cleanable garments.
 Polyester – These resins are used in garments that are Dry cleanable and
washable, because polyesters are less water absorbent than polyamides
and therefore resist washing better.
 PVC – Used for siliconized rain wear fabrics.
 Plasticized polyvinyl acetate - Mainly used for leather and fur at low
pressure and temperatures. It is not dry-cleanable and has very limited
wash ability.

2.5. EQUIPMENT USED FOR FUSING/ OPERATION OF FUSING

MACHINE

Continuous Fusing Press

± It is the most common fusing machine with continuous moving belt used
in garment manufacture.
 ± Garment component and interlining are first placed on the revolving feed
sheet of the continuous fusing machine.
± The revolving feed sheet carries components in the fusing chamber where
components are transferred to another revolving flat sheet.
± The fusing chamber maintains required fusing temperature.
± Then components pass through a pair of pressure rollers where fusing
pressure is maintained by speed of revolving sheet of the fusing chamber.
± Fused components are transferred to revolving delivery sheet.
± One operator continuously feeds and another operator continuously
receives fused components in the delivery side.
± Production is higher and fusing quality is reasonably good.
± The machine consists of three zones: feed zone, fusing zone and cooling
zone
 Feed zone - Belt is before the fusing chamber to place the fabric and
interlining.
 Fusing zone - Main chamber with heating units, speed controlled
continuous belt, two pressure rollers.
 Cooling zone - Fused fabric parts are allowed to cool down up to
room temperature.

Flatbed Fusing Press

 In this machine, there are generally two beds; one bed is static called
„BUCK,‟ and the other is moveable called „HEAD.‟
 The interlining and garment component is positioned first and placed on the
BUCK.
 The surface buck and head are covered with fabrics having a coating of
PTFE. For this coating, the melted resins, dust, or spots can easily be
cleaned.
 The heating system may be electrical or steam. Application of temperature,
pressure, and time could be pre-set in this machine.
 First, the part of the garment, which is for fusing, is placed flatly. Then the
resin surface of the interlining is placed carefully on this.
 Due to switch operation, the HEAD moves downward and comes in contact
with BUCK, and pressure is applied on the component.
 Temperature is applied through HEAD on the whole surface, and after a
specific time, the HEAD moves upward.
 Then for cooling of the fused parts, an air sucking fan in the buck is made
operative.

2.6. FOUR POINT FABRIC INSPECTION SYSTEM

± Normally 4 point system is used for fabric inspection.

± Normally applied for woven and knitted fabric inspection
± The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the
size and significance of the defect.
± Defect can be in either length or width direction.
 ± Only major defects are considered.
± No penalty points are assigned to minor defects.
± Total defect points per 100 yard square are calculated.
± If fabric rolls contains less than 40 points per 100 yard square are
considered “first” quality.
± If it is more than 40 points, it will be considered „seconds‟.

2.7. FABRIC SPREADING

 Fabric spreading is a method where piles of unwinding large rolls of
fabrics are spread a specific length and width wise according to the
garment marker measurement.
 Depending upon the fabric and cutting technology, up to 300 layers of
fabric may be cut at one time.
 The cutting marker is laid on the topmost layer.

2.8. VARIOUS METHODS OF SPREADING

Manual Method:
± Two people may be used for manual spreading unless the spread is
very short.
 ± One person may work each side of the table to keep the fabric flat,
smooth and tension free.
± Advantages: Easy working, Low investment, Suitable for small scale
industries.
± Disadvantage: Speed limitation, Skilled labour required, Small roll
size, Chances for improper fabric edge alignment.
Mechanical Method:
a. Semi-automatic spreading machine:
± Produced for less or no lycra fabrics like open knitted fabric roll,
woven fabric roll and tubular fabric roll or less lycra.
± The cloth is unwound and spread through semi-automatic method.
± The spreading head or carriage is moved to and fro and spread fabric
over the table.
± Movement along the table and fabric pulling can be controlled by the
buttons.
± Advantages: Fast and economical, Proper selvedge alignment, Ease to
operate with electronic clutch.
± Disadvantages: Fabric roll loading, cutting is still manual, No suitable
for larger scale industry, Small role size.
b. Fully automatic spreading machine:

± Easy spreading for all fabrics like open knitted fabric roll, woven fabric
roll and tubular fabric roll and full lycra.
± Easy usage with touch screen operator panel.
± Automatic loading/unloading device for fabric rolls.
± Automatic roll turning arrangement for face to back lay.
± Automatic levelling device for edge alignment.
± Automatic cutting device at the end of a run.
± Automatic tensioning device to control fabric tension.
± Automatic lay height sensor.
 ± Programmable lay length, ply height.
± Spreading speed up to 140 m/min.
± Operator platform.

2.9. REQUIREMENT OF SPREADING PROCESS

 Alignment of fabric ply – during fabric spreading, all plies should be
spread according to the marker dimension. Here, the length and width of
fabric must be equal to marker length and width.
 Elimination of fabric defects/flaws - any faults identified on the incoming
fabrics will be tagged and will be avoided.
 Correct ply direction – in spreading time, all plies must be spread in the
same direction (such as all face up or all face down or face to face) and
from one end of the table.
 Correct ply tension – in spreading, all plies must be spread at uniform
tension (as little as possible). Otherwise, it creates various types of faults
during cutting the fabric.
 Fabric must be flat – all plies must be spread in flat from during fabric
spreading. Otherwise different types of faults such as wrinkle and crease
are produced during fabric cutting.
 Avoidance of distortion in spreading – to avoid fusing of fabric plies
during fabric cutting, polythene sheets are used under the bottom ply to
resist the friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of the knife.
 Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting – synthetic spreading, anti-
fusion paper needed to be used between the plies to reduce the fusion
between the fabric and knives. Normally for every 30 – 40 plies needs one
anti fusion paper.
 Matching the checks and stripes – In case of check and stripe spreading,
checks or stripes should be matched.
2.10. DIFFERENT TYPE OF FABRIC SPREADS
Straight Lay:

Stepped Lay:

Straight lay Stepped lay

Ply of fabric lay is not spread
Each ply is spread according
according to marker length. i.e. when
to marker length. i.e. all plies can have
the plies are laid up in different
the same length.
lengths - a step can be formed.
Mostly used Rarely used

Fabric wastage is less. Fabric wastage is more

Fabric spreading is simple. Fabric spreading is difficult.

One marker is used. Different types of marker are used.

2.11. CONCEPTS OF SPLICING

 Splice marks are planned into continuous markers to avoid excessive fabric
wastage and incomplete pieces.
 Splice marks may be one inch or several inches depending on the overlap
needed to accommodate the pattern pieces in the area of the splice.
 Thus there are two lines in a splice zone: One line shows how far the
previous piece of cloth must extend and one line shows where the next piece
of the cloth must begin, i.e. how much overlap is needed.
 There are two types of splicing methods
 Interlock splice: is pattern pieces are placed inside splicing marks.
 Straight line splice: Pattern pieces are placed away from splicing marks.

2.12. DIFFERENT TYPES OF SPREADING EQUIPMENT

 Spreading machines
 Table
 Normal Table
 Vacuum Table
 Conveyor Table
 Pinned Table
 Fabric Loaders
 Fabric Weights / Clamps/ Pins
2.13. MARKING

 Marker planning is the process of determining the most efficient layout

of pattern pieces for a specific style.
 Marker making: After layering of a lay, pre-made paper patterns (or
ready markers made by plotter) are placed on the top layer of the lay. In
manual marker making, marking is done around each pattern shape using
marking chalk. This process is called marker making.
 Methods of marker making
a. Manual method
b. Computerized method

2.14. ADVANTAGES OF CAD MARKER

 Suitable for large-scale production.

 Marker efficiency is higher than manual method.
 Least amount of wastage of fabric.
 If required, printout of marker is possible anytime.
 Automatic grading.
 Less time and manpower required, so production is higher.

2.15. MARKER EFFICIENCY

 It is determined by fabric utilization, the percentage of the total fabric that is

actually used in garment parts.
 It is expressed in percentage (%).
Total area of the pattern pieces
= ………………………………………… x 100
Actual area of the fabric placed

 The higher the marker efficiency, the lower will be the fabric wastage. So
increase in marker efficiency is very important.
2.16. UNDERSTANDING OF PATTERN
 A pattern can be defined as a model of the various components of a garment.
It can be made of paper or plastic.
 Normally papers are used to make the patterns which cheaper than plastic. In
industries, they are using thick paper or card board.
 Patterns are very useful for pattern grading process. (Enlarging or reducing a
pattern of a particular size proportionately to some other size.)
 Patterns are helpful in making pattern layout. (Manner in which the patterns
are laid out on the fabric for cutting process is called as pattern layout.)

2.17. METHODS IF LAYING PATTERNS

1. Layout for asymmetric design
The right and left sides are different from each other. So for these designs
to cut right and left sides separately from a single layer of fabric

2. Layout for striped designs

While using fabrics with bold lengthwise stripes, place the pattern in a
position that one of the prominent lines falls along the centre of the garment. By
this the stripes are identical on the two sides of the fold.
3. Layout for plaid designs
When are using bold designs such as plaids and crosswise stripes to
match the plaids and stripes so that they form continuous lines across the
openings. First s folds the fabrics in such a way that the stripes are match
exactly on the both of layer of fabric.

4. Layout for one way designs

When using one way designed fabrics to place all the pattern pieces in the
same and correct direction, otherwise, the print will look upside down on
sections which have been wrongly also for napped and pile fabrics, to follow the
same way.

2.18. YARDAGE CONTROL IN CUTTING ROOM

An amount or length of fabric measured in yards
 1 yard = ---0.91-------meters
 1 meter = ----39.3-----inches
 1 inch = ------2.54---- cm
 1 cm = ------10------mm
  Cutting room is the feeding point to the factory has the massive impact
on all the further processes of garment manufacturing i.e. sewing,
finishing etc.
 Efficient and well planned operations in cutting room ensure smooth
flow of work to all further processes and can definitely lift up the
utilization of the available resources.
 Cutting room controls the utilization of fabric which is the biggest
contributor to the cost of any garment. Even small wastage or saving of
fabric will have a huge effect on the margins of the orders.

2.19. SPREADING MODES

The mode of fabric spreading is the way fabric plies are laid out for
cutting. Two fabric characteristics that determine the spreading mode are the
direction of fabric face and direction of fabric nap.
a. Direction of fabric nap:
The surface directionality of the fabric is called a nap. Or if the fabric has
surface fibres /short threads (like velvet, corduroy, etc.), the direction that they
naturally lay is the nap of the fabric.
 N/E/W with symmetric (No change in appearance when the fabric is
turned 180 degrees), non-directional fabrics all the pattern pieces can
be placed on a marker with only consideration for grain line.
 N/O/W with asymmetric (If there is a change in appearance when the
fabric is turned 180 degrees), directional fabrics all the pattern pieces
is placed on a marker in only one direction.
 (N/U/D) On some directional fabrics, such as corduroy, it may be
possible for all the pattern pieces of one size to be placed in one
direction and another size placed ill the opposite direction. This is
called nap-up-and-down (N/U/D).
b. Direction of Fabric Face:
The fabric face may be positioned in two ways: face-to-face (F/F) or with
all plies facing-one-way (F/O/W) face up or face down.
 Face to Face: This means, the face side of one layer is placed against
the face side of another fabric layer. Often symmetric, non-directional
fabrics are spread continuously which places alternate plies face to
face or back to back.
 Face One Way: Which means, all plies facing in the same direction
(either upward or downward). This method is particularly helpful
when spreading prints. Pile fabrics, corduroy and velvet are often
spread face down.

Highlights:
Overall, for any fabric there are the following possibilities in which they can be
spread-
Nap one way, face one way (NOW, F/O/W)
Nap either way, face to face (NEW, F/F)

Nap one way, face to face (NOW, F/F)

Nap either way, face one way (NEW, F/O/W)

2.21. CUTTING
Cutting quality is a prime important for quality in a finished product. The
quality of work leaving the cutting room is determined for
 Material or fabric defects in the cut fabric parts
 Shade differences between cut fabric pieces within a bundle.

2.21.1. Cutting Machines

Straight Knife
 It consists of a base plate, vertical blade, motor, handle for moving
assembly, and a sharpening device.
 Normally available blade heights vary from 10 cm to 33 cm and normally
available strokes vary from 2.5 to 4.5 cm.
 A small sharpening material on it and its main function is to sharpen the
blade.
 Motor r.p.m. is 3000 to 4000. and its main function is to move the blade
up and down and also slightly in front direction to create a stroke on
fabric.
 The greater the blade movement, the faster the blade cuts the fabric.
 Fabric presser in the machine which holds the layers of the fabric tight to
make it easier for the cutter to cut the fabric.
 Wheels are under the base plate to move the machine smoothly.
 Moving handle is to hold the machine as well to move.
 Advantages
 A large number of fabric lays can be cut by the machine.
 Comparatively cheap.
 Can be moved easily by wheel.
 Suitable for straight line and curve line.
 Fabric can be cut from any angle.
 Upper handle,
Electrical cable,
Motor,
Side handle,
Knife sharpener,
Stand,
Presser foot,
Straight knife, and
Base plate with rollers

Round Knife
 It contains a round but slightly octagonal type knife with sharp edge.
 The other main parts of this machine are base plate, electric motor, handle
& knife guard.
 Knife diameter varies from 6-20 cm.
 Manual grinder is used.
 Motor r.p.m. is 800-1600.
 A handle for the cutter to direct the knife.
 Base plate gives support for fabric.
 Round knives are not suitable for cutting curved lines in high lays because
the blade does not strike all the plies simultaneously.
 Advantages
 Suitable for straight line rather than curve line cutting.
 Suitable for small scale cutting unit.
 Machine is small in size
 Easy to handle and operate.
Band Knife
 Fabric cannot be cut fabric directly from lay.
 Block pieces of fabric required in bundle from to cut in this machine
 Blade moves vertically through a flat working table.
 Machine remains stationery and fabric is moveable
 One edge of the blade is sharpened. The blade is usually narrower than on
a straight knife.
 The machine has a built-in blade-sharpening system.
 A large size of table is used to support the fabric & for cutting.
 Air blower blows the air to minimize the weight of fabric.
 Balls in air blower help to move the fabric in different direction.
 Fabric place on working surface with the help of floating air ball. Here the
cutting portion is stationary and the materials to be cut are moved.
  Advantages
 Suitable for any type of line.
 It has higher productivity for limited products such as collar, cuff and
pocket.
 Automatic grinder grinds the knife instantly.
 Air blower helps to reduce the fabric weight which increases smooth
movement of fabric.
 Possible to cut 90° angle of the lay.
 Band knives are used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is
required than can be obtained with a straight knife.

Die Cutter
 Die cutting involves pressing a rigid blade through the lay of fabric.
 The die is a sharp shape of pattern.
 Using strip steel, manufactured by bending the strip to the shape required
and welding the joint.
 These cannot be sharpened and must be replaced when worn.
 Die presses are of two types: Impact, which makes a single press on the
die, and more commonly, hytronic which exerts continuous pressure on
the die.
  Die cutters are used to cut the small parts of larger garments such as
collars and cuffs.
 They provide a high standard accuracy of cutting but cost of the die is
high.
 Die cutting also offers much faster cutting with greater accuracy than
knife cutting for the same depth of cut.
 Advantages
 Very much suitable for accurately cutting the small parts of a garments.
 Suitable for cutting in any shape or in any angle.
 Can be cut comparatively in a lesser time.
 This method is the best for the knitted fabrics.

Notchers
 Notches are cut into the edges of the garment parts / enable to alignment
during sewing with other garment parts.
 Specialised notching equipment provides greater accuracy of notching
with consistent depth of notch at a consistent right angle to the edge.
 Both straight notches and V- notches are generally cut on garment parts.
 The hot notcher, having a heating element provides to prevent it fraying
and disappearing
 This cannot be used with thermoplastic fibres.
End Cutter
 It is another supplementary tool for cutting section. It mainly used to cut
the edge of the fabric ply an affixed with cutting table.
 It can be fixed to any type of cutting table by compressing bracket, cutting
of extensive stuff with large table options (up to 144″ wide / 3.66m wide),
with an extended handle option or a push/pull handle option for
enormously extended cuts needing more than one operator.
 It is automatic knife grinding system, easy to operate, and low power
consumption etc. End cutters are available in manually-operated or
automatic configurations.

2.23. DIFFERENT TYPES OF BLADES OF CUTTING KNIVES

 Straight knife: straight edge, wave edge, sews edge and serrated edge.
 Round knife: waved edge, toothed edge and circular edge.
 Band Knife: Knife edge

2.24. REASONS FOR QUALITY PROBLEMS IN CUTTING

 Frayed edges – Improper cutting tools or dull knives cause excessive

fraying in a pattern as the section is cut.
 Serrated edges – such a condition is caused by faulty knife edges such as
burrs, chips or dullness.
  Ply to ply fusion – Adjacent plies are fused together. Fusion occurs due to
heat created by excessively high speed of cutting.
 Single edge fusion – consists of a single ply whose cut yarn ends are
fused to form a hard brittle rim on the cut edge. Sometimes this is
desirable to prevent fraying.
 Notches – Notch size refers to the depth of a notch. If the depth is too
great, the notch may show after a garment is sewing.
 Pattern precision – Misshape or distortion of the pattern as cut.

2.25. METHOD OF BUNDLING & TICKETING

 Position Marking:
Where reference marks are needed away from the edge of a garment
part, for the position of pockets, darts and similar features, a hole is often
drilled through all the plies of fabric in the lay.
 Shade Marking:
The components cut from different shades of the same colour do
not get mixed up during the assembly process. Every component for one
garment is marked with a unique number, usually printed on a small
ticket which is stuck on the component.
 Numbering:
Between the cutting and sewing processes cut components may be
passed through other processes like printing and embroidery. There is a
maximum chance of mixing the components. If there is a layer number in
each component then at the time of stitching only correct components
will be stitched together.
2.26. USE OF BUNDLING AND TICKETING
Bundling:
 As per the production line requirement, a certain number of pieces with
all components are tied together. This process is known as bundling.
 Each bundle is marked with bundle number, style name, size number and
quantity of pieces in that bundle. At this stage, cuttings are ready to send
to a production line for stitching.
Ticketing:
 Bundle tickets identify each bundle and in themselves play an important
role on production planning and control for sewing and finishing sections.
 The tickets themselves can be bar-coded, and in both cases they can be
computer generated.
 The purpose of bundle tickets is to:
 Monitor the progress of each specific garment,
 Ensure that all the correct parts are assembled together, and
 Compensate operators for their work on each garment.
 Module – 03

SEWING ROOM
3.1. MACHINES – TYPES & APPLICATIONS

1. Lock stitch machine: used for all types of garments.

2. Chain stitch machine: used for sew both woven and knitted garments.
3. Over lock machine (3-Thread): used for knit and woven fabric sewing.
Normally used in side seam, armhole, sleeve portion to prevent raw edges of
fabric.
4. Over lock machine (5-Thread): used for give safety sewing in side seam,
armhole, and sleeve. Knit and woven both can be sewing.
5. Flat lock machine: used for covering chain stitch. It is must for producing
knit wear.
6. Feed off the arm: used specially for the sleeve inseam joining and inside
seam joining of the pant.
7. Button hole machine: used for make hole in the apparel.
8. Button sewing machine: used for sew the button with the apparel.
9. Bar tack machine: used in pant for belt loop joining, pocket corner and zipper
fly.
3.1.1. Machine Bed
3.2. USE OF ATTACHMENTS

 Attachments are work aids that can be added or removed from the
machine or work station according to the requirement of a particular
sewing operation.
 Attachments that manipulate materials are used to assist an operator in
guiding, positioning, folding and regulating the materials during the
sewing operation.
 Some commonly used attachments include
1. Binders – attach bias binding to straight or curved edges automatically
in one operation.
2. Edge folders – folders are used, as their name implies, in situations
where fabric must be folded prior to sewing.
3. Tuckers – enables uniform tuck to be repeated at the required distance
apart.

Binders:

 Single fold binder: it is used in conjunction with a compensating foot.

This folder is used for tapes which have a finished edge.

 Double fold binder: it is mounted on the throat plate, at right angles to the
sewing line. A special feed dog set and foot are parts of the unit which
folds in both edges of the tape as it is being bound and sewn.

Folders

 Lap seam folders: used on two or three needle machines, this attachment
folds the edges of the two parts being joined and interleaves them while
being sewn.
  Hem folders: makes a double rolled hem of the type used on scarves and
hand kerchiefs, and a folder to make a hem as narrow as this is easily
contained within space of a presser foot.
 Narrow hem folder
 Wider hem folder

3.3. SEWING - STITCH TYPES AND PROPERTIES

Stitches are needed for joining the fabric, neatening the edges and decorating
the garments.
 Intra-looping
When a loop one thread passes through the loop of same tread
during sewing is called intralooping.

Inter-looping
During stitching when loop of one thread passes through the loop
of another thread is called interloping.
  Interlacing
During stitching when one loop of one thread passes over another
loop of another tread is called interlacing.

Single Needle Chain Stitch (Class 100)

 Intra-looping forms this class of stitches
 One or more needle threads are used to form stitches.
 One needle thread is passed through the fabric, form needle loop and is
secured by the next loop formed by the same thread. Thus stitches are
produced. This type of stitches is much unsecured.
 Properties:
- Good elasticity
- Neat
- Easily unravelled
 Uses:
 The common use of this stitch is in special sewing processes of button
sewing, button holing and blind hemming.
 Stitch Class No. of Thread Typical Uses

Class 101 One Thread Basting

Class 103 One Thread Blind stitch for Hemming
Class 104 One Thread Essentially decorative and is known
as saddle stitching.
Used for attaching buttons, snap
fasteners etc.

Hand stitch: (Class 200)

 This type is originated from hand stitches.
 It is produced from a single thread.
 This thread (needle) is passed through the fabric from one side to another
and the stitch is secured by the single line of thread passing in and out of the
garment.
 Properties:
- Medium or average elasticity
- Has neat appearance
- Difficult to unravel
 Uses:
 Mostly used in the lapel of jacket, coat and expensive clothes.

Stitch Class No. of Thread Typical Uses

Class 202 One Thread Basting, Tacking

Class 205 One Thread Top stitching

Lock stitch: (Class 300)
 The class of stitch is formed with two or more groups of threads.
 One group as the needle thread and the other group as bobbin thread.
 Here, one set of threads is interlaced with another set of threads and a bond
is made.
 This stitch has same appearance on both sides.
 Stitch type 301 is the most common in 300.
 Properties:
- Does not ravel
- Flat, neat and good looking
- Similar appearance on the top and bottom
- Very limited extensibility
- Minimum use of threads for stich purpose
- Can be started and finished at any point of the fabric
 Uses:
 The most widely used stitch in the clothing (sewing, joining different
components during garments making, topstitching, etc.)
 It is very suitable for pleats and darts
 Can be secured at both ends of seam
 This stitch is also used in knitted sector for stitching pockets to cardigan.

301

Stitch Class No. of Thread Typical Uses

Class 301 Two Threads Seaming Multiple Plies

Class 304 Two Threads Zigzag Stitch - used for

fastening lace, elastic
Multi thread chain stitch (Class 400)
 Stitches are created by two or more group of threads.
 One thread is called the needle thread, and another thread is called the looper
thread.
 The one thread is passed through the fabric and connected to another thread
formed by interlacing and inter-looping.
 Stitch type 401 is the most common in the 400.
 The front of the stitch looks like a lock stitch, and the back of the stitch looks
like a double thread.
 Sometimes this form of chain stitch is called a double locked stitch because
the needle thread is inter connected with two loops of the under thread.

401

 Properties:
- Construction of knitted fabric
- High elasticity if sufficient thread is introduced.
- Tends to eliminate or reduce puckering problems.
- Good lateral strength.
- This will not unravel rapidly.
 Uses:
 Used for woven suiting such as waist bands, neck bands and crotch seams
of trousers.
 Stitch Class No. of Thread Typical Uses

Class 401 Two Threads Seaming Multiple Plies

Used for long stitching in jeans and
pants.

Class 401 Two Threads Zigzag chain stitch – decorative

stitch

Class 406 Three Threads Two needle Bottom Cover Stitch

Used to braid, elastic with a
sweater.

Over edge Stitch: (Class 500)

 This class of stitch is formed with one or more groups of threads. At least
one group of thread pass around the edge of the material.
 In below figure is formed from one needle thread and two looper threads
(bottom and top).

504

 The loop formed by the penetrating needle thread is entered by the first
looper thread, which is turn is entered by second looper and they form a
narrow band of stitching along the edge of the fabric with threads
intersecting at the edge and preventing the fabric from fraying.
  Properties:
- Very high extensibility up to 300% when suitably adjusted.
- Good lateral strength.
- Upper and lower looper threads interloop to bind the trimmed edge of the
fabric.
 Uses:
 This is most widely used stitch type in the hosiery sector and may be
found at any place in cut and sewn garments at which a trimmed and
bound edge is required. Such as sleeve setting, closing side seams on T-
shirts and crotch seaming of tights.

Stitch Class No. of Thread Typical Uses

Class 502 Two Threads One Needle Over Edge Stitch for Serging

Class 504 Three Threads Over Edge Stitch for Serging and Light Seaming

Flat Lock Stitch (Class 600)

 This class of stitch is formed three groups of thread. Threads of two groups
can be seen from either side.
 The first group of thread is called needle thread, second is called top cover
thread (spreader) and the third is called bottom cover thread (looper). The
stitches of this class.
 Loops of the first group of threads passed through loops of the third group
already cast on the surface of material and then through the material where
they are inter-looped with loops of the second group of threads on the
underside of the material.
 The third and second groups are usually referred to as the top cover threads
and the bottom cover or looper threads respectively.
 602

 For producing stitch type-606, 4 needle threads and 5 other threads are
required.
 Properties:
- Secures cut and folded – back raw edge neatly and securely top and
bottom cover
- Broad, flat and comfortable
- Strong but uses more sewing thread
- Will not unravel easily
- Very good extensibility
 Uses:
 This is most widely used stitch type in the knitted sectors and mainly
used for hems of t-shirts, skirts, trousers and underwear
 Decorative purpose on knitted leisure wear.
3.4. VARIOUS TECHNIQUES OF PRODUCTION IN SEWING ROOM
1. Progressive Bundle System / Assembly System
In a progressive bundle system cut parts are tied in a bundle and then
loaded in a sewing line.
Each operator in a sewing line performs one operation and passes the
bundle to the next operator for next operation.
Progressive bundle system is an assembly system.
The Size of bundle depends upon the plies and shade while cutting the
fabric.
The operators specialize in one major component and sew it from beginning
to end.
In the cutting section cut components of one style and in one size are
clubbed and bundled using ties.
Bundle sizes could vary from 2 to 100 pieces according to the requirement of
the production plant.
A ticket number will be allotted to each bundle which represents style, size,
shade of the garments and number of cut pieces etc.
The bundles of cut parts are transported to the sewing section via trollies and
given to the operators and then finished the operation all pieces in the
bundle, retie and passed on to the next operator.
There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or table for storing the inter-
process work between each operation.
It is used in shirt factories, jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.
Advantages
 It allows high productivity.
 Labors of all levels, ie, unskilled, skilled, semi-skilled labors are involved
in this system.
 Due to bundle system, less chance to lot mix-up, size and shade variation
of cut garment pieces.
 Tracking of bundles is possible, so identifying and solving the problems
becomes easy.
 An efficient production control system could be implemented.
Disadvantages
 Time-consuming due to assembling, moving, tying and untying of
bundles.
 Slow processing, absenteeism, and equipment failure may also cause
major bottlenecks within the system.
 Large inventory, extra handling and difficulty in controlling inventory.
 Inventory cost will be high due to higher WIP in each.

2. Unit Production System

Unit Production system is a single piece flow system in which garment
components are transported from one workstation to other using
automated systems in a pre-determined sequence.
This system is also called overhead production system because most
automated systems are overhead systems.
In UPS, there are hangers. One hanger has multiple clips containing all
parts of the single garment.
All the parts for a single garment are moved forward through the
production line by overhead conveyor.
 Hanging carrier can be moved manually by the operator using button
after completion of single operation or by computerized system that move
the conveyor after a specific fed throughput time.
Completed the product arrives to an unloading station. The empty product
carrier returns to the loading station.
Production operations are completed with / without removing the parts
from the carrier.

Advantages
 Low WIP.
 Defects can be less.
 Improves lead time.
 Bundle handling completely eliminated.
 Output is automatically recorded.
 Increased productivity.
 Indirect labor costs are reduced
 Improved quality.
Disadvantages
 Proper planning is required to be effective.
 Highly expensive-buying equipment and cost of installing.
 Specialized training for the system.
3. Modular Production System
In a modular manufacturing operator neither sews the whole garment nor
performs a single operation instead they perform a group of operations and
work as a team.
Operators are multi skilled which mean each operator can perform more
than one operation they switch between workstations and sew; they work as
a team and balance work by sharing the workload.
Usually U-shaped layout with more workplaces than operators.
Modular production system involves a group of 4-17 people.
The number of teams in a plant varies with the need of the industry, size of
the industry and product line in garments.
In this system, operators help each other to finish the garment quickly and
the team is fully responsible for the production and quality.
The operators stand /sit at their stations and rotate in different sewing
machines to complete the operations.
Time spent per garment is also little; e.g. T-shirt 3 mints, Pull-on pants 6
mints., unstructured jacket 25 mints., lined blazer 40 mints., tailored coat
120 mints.
Advantages
 Cost of production is less
 Higher productivity as work is shared.
 Absenteeism and machine breakdown does not cause serious problems
 Improved quality of the product
 Operators can do more than one operation.
Disadvantages
 Multi-skilled operators are required
 More WIP is needed
 Quality control can be difficult

4. Individual System/ Make Through

Make through system is traditional method of production where one
sewing operator does all the work to sew a garment.
The sequence of operations can be according to the operators’ method of
working.
This production system requires a highly skilled and versatile operator, a
combination which is becoming extremely rare and increasingly
expensive.
It is effective when a very large variety of garments have to be produced
in extremely small quantities.
A typical application would be in the sewing room of a boutique, which
produces its own merchandise.
Advantages
 Well suited for manufacturing variety of garments in extremely low
quantities.
 Little to no managerial inputs required as operator works entirely on his
own
 Minimum WIP.
  Complicated garments can be produced without much difficulty.
Disadvantages
 Highly skilled operators are required so cost of labour is high.
 Not suited for manufacturing bigger order quantities.
 High Dependency in operators.

5. Whole Garment Production System

There are two types of Whole Garment Production Systems:
(1) Complete whole garment and
(2) Departmental whole garment.
a. Complete whole garment system
 In the whole garment system one individual makes the entire garment
from cutting the cloth to sewing and pressing the garment.
 The garment is ready for dispatch once the operator completes the final
operation.
 They are normally high priced and exclusively made for a particular
customer.
 They are limited in number and distribution; normally about 10-20
garments are made.
b. Departmental whole garment system
 In the departmental whole garment system one individual does all the
work with the equipment allocated to a department.
 For example, one person does all the cutting work in cutting department,
second person does all the sewing work in sewing department, and the
third person does the pressing and packing work.
Advantages (whole garment production system)
 It is more effective when a very large variety of garments have to be
produced in extremely small quantities.
 Finish more pieces, to earn more money.
  Operator will be specialized in his own working area.
 As the pay to workers depends upon the complication of the operation.
 The Work in Progress (WIP) is reduced.
Disadvantages (whole garment production system)
 Highly skilled laborers are used, so the cost of labor is high.
 The operator is more concerned on the number of pieces finished rather
than the quality of work.
 Productivity is less due to lack of specialization.
 For long run/bulk quantity of same style is not effective in this system.
 Module – IV
OPERATION BREAKDOWN FOR GARMENTS: T-SHIRT/SHIRT,
DRESS, TROUSER/JEANS

T-Shirt - Basic
SL No. Operations
1. Label Ready (Cut And Arrange)
2. Sleeve Hem
3. Shoulder Joint
4. Neck Rib Ready & Attach
5. Neck T/S
6. Seeri Binding
7. Seeri Binding Cut & Check
8. Sleeve Attach
9. Sew Under Arm & Side Seams with Care Label
10. Sleeve Peak
11. Bottom Pcs. Turn
12. Bottom Hem
13. Main Label Attach
14. Inline Checking

Shirt

SL No. Operations
1. Collar & Collar Band: Make Collar and Collar
Band, Attach CB to Collar and Hemming
2. Cuff: Make and Hemming
3. Pocket Preparation and Hemming
4. Back: Attach Main Label, Attach Back Yoke and
Hemming
5. Sleeve: Sleeve Placket Preparation
6. Front: Mark Pocket Placement, Attach Pocket,
Make B/H Placket and Attach to Front and
Hemming
Assembly
 7. Join Shoulder
8. Shoulder T/S
9. Stay Stitch around Neck Line
10. Attach Collar to Neck Line
11. Finish Collar
12. Attach Sleeve (set sleeve)
13. Armhole T/S
14. Make & Tack Care Label
15. Close Side Seam
16. Side Seam T/S
17. Attach Cuffs
18. Cuff T/S
19. Mark & Make Button Holes
20. Attach Buttons
21. Thread Trimming

Plain Kameez (Dress)

1. Finish the neckline with facing

2. Stitch both the shoulders together with right sides facing each other’s.
3. Finish the sleeve hem.
4. Then stitch the sleeves to the armhole.
5. Then stitch front and back side seam together leaving slit opening on
both sides.
6. Fold and stitch the slit open from bottom to slit mark.
7. Place the needle on fabric and lift the pressure foot, turn the fabric
stitch on seam allowances. Then turn and fold the other side of the slit
open and stitch it.
 8. Trim the edges of side seam with pinking scissors or give over lock
stitch.
9. Finish the slit and fold the bottom by double row of stitches for neat
finish.

Trousers (Knitted)

1. Care Label Attach

2. Pocket Preparation and Attach
3. Front and Back Join
4. Front Rise
5. Back Rise
6. Side Seam Join
7. Inseam Join
8. Elastic Cut & Join
9. Elastic Attach
10. Kaja Fix
11. Elastic T/S
12. Rope Fix
13. Rope Peak
14. Back Centre Peak
15. Bottom Hem
16. Thread Trimming
Jeans

SL No. Operation
1 Back Yoke Join
2 Back Yoke T/S
3 Back Raise Join
4 Back Raise T/S
5 Back Pocket Cut
6 Back Pocket Mouth Rolling
7 Back Pocket Stitch
8 Back Pocket Join with Back Part
9 Front Rise
10 Front Rise T/S
11 Fly Pieces Stitch
12 Zipper Stitch With Fly Piece
13 Fly Piece Back Attaching
14 Fly Piece Front Attaching
15 Front Pocket Mouth Rolling
16 Front Pocket Horizontal And Vertical Tack
17 Front Pocket Bag Stitch and Inside Out
18 Front Pocket Bag T/S
19 Front And Back Part Matching
20 Inseam Join
21 Inseam T/S
22 Side Seam Join
23 Safety Stitch
24 Side Cord Stitch
25 Care Label Attaching
26 Loop Measure, Cut And Attach
27 Waistband Mark
28 Waistband Match
29 Waistband Join
30 Waistband Mouth Cut
31 Waistband Mouth Close Inside
32 Loop Tack Down
33 Loop Tack Top
34 Turn Body And Thread Cut
35 Bottom Hem Join
36 Loop Stitch
37 Back Pocket Tack
38 Front Pocket Tack
39 Eye Hole Creating
40 Flap Mark
41 Revert Attaching
42 Waist Hole Creating
43 Waist Button Attach
44 Final Thread Cut
 Finishing Room
PRESSING
 Pressing is the application of heat (to soften and thus stabilize the
garment shape), moisture (to aid in fiber swelling and thus shape
stabilization) and pressure (crease retention and permanency) maintaining
actual time to give shape, remove unwanted crease, crease on fabrics,
garments, or garment parts.

PROCESSES INVOLVED - UNDER PRESSING, TOP PRESSING

Under Pressing:
For sewing easily and beautifully, it must need to give minimum pressing
to some parts of garments before sewing is called under pressing.
Specially, under pressing is done to most of the garments industries for
making coat, jacket, and trouser and so on. They also require final
pressing.
Final Pressing:
This is done after making of garments. This is generally done in shirt,
skirt and so on. Pressing or ironing is done here to increase the beauty of
garments and to impart a flat appearance to the clothing. Special type of
pressing machine is used for final pressing.

EQUIPMENT: STEAM PRESS, STEAM TUNNEL, DOLLY PRESS

Steam Press
 The steam press has two main parts: the head and the buck.
 The fabric is laid out on the buck, and the head is placed over it.
 The head brings the appropriate amount of pressure to bear on the fabric.
 At the same time, steam is blown onto and through the garment on the
buck. After a set amount of time, the head comes up, and the pressed
fabric is removed from the buck.
 Buck presses are mostly used for slacks, skirts and jackets.
 Buck pressing can be used for in process pressing and final pressing.
  Steps
A garment need to be pressed is fixed in the buck
↓
The buck head closes and locks
↓
Then steam is applied to the head to press the garment for a predetermined time
↓
The buck head is released
↓
Vacuum is applied to the garment to cool and dry it
↓
The garment then moved around the buck for the next part of it to be pressed

Tunnel Finisher
 In this process garments are pressed without any pressure.
 Tunnel finisher consists of 4 separate units
 Garments are hung on hanger and automatically moved to the tunnel by
integrated suspension system.
 With its advanced digital display, all units are controlled automatically.
 First, entrance and cleaning: unwanted impurities found on the garments
are collected by the high power vacuum unit and garments emerge clean
and free of impurities.
 Second, steam unit: based on the fabric type, the correct steam setting is
selected on digital screen. Perfectly steamed and ready for the airing unit.
  Third, air unit: softened clothes arrive from the steam unit and enter
specially designed air unit. Where wrinkles on the clothes are blown
away by blasts of hot air.
 The force of hot air applied (adjusted automatically according to the
characteristics of the garments.
 Fourth, finishing and cooling: wrinkle free clothes are dried in the cooling
unit and form a smooth state.
 This type of pressing is used for pressing T-shirts and knitted wears.

Form Finishing (Dolly Press)

 This type of garments finishing machine is known as dolly press.
 Form pressing equipment is used for the final pressing in garment
production.
 The dolly press contains a frame which contains form and the steam and
compressed air are flowed by pipe through the form.
 The pressing form is generally made by heavy canvas fabric.
 There is no sleeve and the usable form size is made according to the size
of body of garments.
 Steam is forced from the inside of the form through the garment while the
form expands to fill all the space inside the garment. This gives the
garment final shape.
 Steam and air are supplied for a predetermined time by using a timer.
 Normally 8 seconds for steam supply and next 8 seconds for hot air
supply.
 This type pressing is used for pressing T-shirts, jeans, pants, blouses, and
sportswear and so on.
PACKING

 Packaging means wrapping, compressing, filling or creating of goods for

the purpose of protection of goods and their convenient handling.
 After final inspection & garments folding, the garments are poly-packed
dozen-wise, color wise, size ratio wise, bundled and packed in the carton.
 The carton is marked with important information in printed form which is
seen from outside the carton easily.

PACKING STEPS
TYPES OF FOLDING
 Stand up pack: with packing materials like tissue paper, back support,
pins or clips, inner collar patty, outer patty: Shirt
 Flat pack without packing materials: Sport wear/Shirt/Trouser. Mostly
used for ladies garments
 Hanger pack: Blazer, Coats, Pants (packing material: only polybag)
 Dead man pack: Shirts. Here, the sleeves are folded in front of the pack
and pinned with each other. Next, the garments are folded in the center.
As it resembles the appearance of a dead body, it is called a ‘dead man
pack’. It is a simple packing method using only pins or clips and polybags.

METHODS OF PACKING
a. Packing garment with polybag
 Traditionally garments are packed into poly bags before placing them
into cartons box. Garments may be packed in the poly bags based on
buyer
 Single piece packing: a single garment is packed into the polybag.
 Blister packing: In blister packing, more than one garment is packed
into a polybag in a size and color ratio. Later those poly bags are
packed into a carton box.
b. Packing garment without polybag
 The other method is that the garments are just folded and arranged in
the carton boxes without putting them in the polybag.

TYPES OF CARTON PACKING

 After garment packaging, the process of cartooning is carried out based
on the size of the apparel and its color.
1. Solid color solid size pack
2. Solid color assorted size pack
 3. Assorted color solid size pack
4. Assorted color assorted size pack
 Carton pack may be varying according to the buyer’s requirement. Carton
pack may be as –
 12 pcs / carton
 24 pcs / carton
 36 pcs / pack
 MODULE - V

Quality Control & Costing

5.0. FABRIC TO WAREHOUSE

Receiving fabrics from supplier

↓
Receiving invoice & packing list and mill dye lot
↓
Inside room condition checking (temp & humidity)
↓
Physical verification against invoice & packing list
↓
Keeping roll in fabrics warehouse

5.1. DEFINITION OF QUALITY

It means different things to different people. From different people,
 The best money can buy
 Meeting a specification or conformance to specifications
 Craftsmanship
 Degree of excellence
User based quality mean meeting customer requirements and expectations all the
time.
5.1.1. Dimensions of quality:
The quality of a product or service is assessed based on some parameters
 Performance
 Durability
 Aesthetics
 Features
 Serviceability
 Conformance
 Reliability
 Perceived quality
 5.2. IMPORTANCE OF TESTING IN QUALITY
Testing is the way of control or the process to check or verify the nature
of some items. It is the process or procedure to determine the quality of a
product. Testing is 5M: Man, Machine, Material, Method and Measurement.
 Evaluation of properties of different forms: fibers,yarns and fabrics.
 To ensure the product quality.
 To control the manufacturing process.
 For customer satisfaction.
 Good reputation (brand image) among consumers.
Reasons for textile testing
 Checking the quality, suitability of raw material and selection of material.
 Monitoring of production
 Assessment of final product, whether the quality is accept or not.
 Investigation of faulty material
 Product development and research.
 Specification testing

5.3. STAGES OF QC IN APPAREL MANUFACTURING COMPANY

5.3.1. Quality control in pre-production
± Pre-production apparel quality control is conducted before the
production starts.
a) Fabric quality control through assessing
 Comfort properties
 Colorfastness properties
 Durability properties
 GSM, carded/combed yarn, composition, EPI, PPI, etc.
b) Other trimmings and accessories such as:
 Zipper, Button, Hooks, Snap fasteners, Drawstrings, etc.
 Interlinings
 Sewing threads
 Elastic waistband
 5.3.2. Quality control in production/online/in-process
± The inspection, which is carried out before assembling all the parts of
a garment is known as in-process inspection. Inspector moves around
shop floor from department to department and machine to machine
and Labor to Labor. Helps in correcting errors during the process
itself.
 QC in Spreading
 QC in cutting
 QC in assembling parts
 QC in sewing
 QC in finishing
5.3.3. Quality control in post-production/Final inspection
± Quality control of finished garments is an inspection before the
merchandise is shipped to the customer. Any corrective action
involves redoing the garment.
Technical parameters such as:
 Defects in yarn, fabrics.
 Defects in trims and accessories.
 Stitching defects.
 Seam defects etc.
 Overall appearance.
 Sizing and fit.

5.4. PURPOSE OF PILOT, MID AND FINAL INSPECTIONS

Pilot run inspection
± A pilot run is a small cut across all sizes & colors that will identify &
potential problems in manufacturing prior to the factory cutting bulk.
± The inspection of the pilot run should be carried out by the factory
Quality Control (QC).
± Pilot Lots are Required When
 A new fabric is being introduced and the factory has not handled it
before.
 The machine setting must be revaluated and set accordingly.
  New construction methods are being introduced for critical fit tests.
 New machinery or new settings are being introduced.
 To ensure that shrinkage allowances built into patterns are corrected
for steam shrinkage, washing shrinkage, fusing, printing, or any other
after treatment to standard.
 Through pilot run process, production team learns about the critical
operations in the styles, identify potential bottleneck operations.
Mid inspection
± The main purpose is to detective defects and stops the defects. Early
detective can save time and money for repair work.
± To improve productivity: Chances of defect generation reduces. Thus no
possibility of piling up WIP in certain operations and no chance to
stopping work at few operations and let the line to dry.
± Early feedback to cutting department: If garments are checked, defects
related to cutting can be detected at the initial 2 to 3 operations. Sewing
floor can inform the cutting department about the cutting issues if it
exists. Based on the feedback the cutting department takes action
quickly.
± Reduce the workload of the end-of-line checker.
Final inspection
 Post-production inspection (Final inspection) is the final stage of quality
control.
 It takes place when at least 80% of the garments have been made and
packed for shipment.
 The purpose of a final inspection is to ensure that the products meet the
specifications and safety standards that were agreed upon by the buyer and
seller.
 The final inspection can also help to identify potential problems with the
manufacturing process, so that they can be corrected before they cause
more damage.
 It allows you to catch any quality control issues that may have been missed
earlier in the manufacturing process.
5.5. QUALITY MANUAL

A quality manual is a document that defines the quality management

system of an organization and demonstrates how the quality management
system should function.
Manual includes information of quality procedures of various departments,
how to measure guide, compliance requirement, code of contacts, audit
procedures, inspection system with format.
QM main contents
 Quality policy and objectives
 Quality management system
 Management responsibility
 Resource management
 Product realization
 Measurement, analysis and improvement

5.6. APPAREL MANUFACTURER’S ROLE IN PRODUCING QUALITY

PRODUCT
 Develop a strong quality management system. This should include
standard operating procedures for all aspects of the manufacturing
process, from design to delivery.
 Train the employees thoroughly on the quality management system, and
make sure they follow it correctly.
 Train the staff on the importance of quality and quality control in the
manufacturing process.
 Use accurate and consistent measurements when creating the patterns and
samples.
 Inspect each garment before it goes out the door, and reject any that don‟t
meet the standards.
 Keep track of customer feedback, and use it to continually improve the
product quality.
 Develop accurate measurements for each size and style of garment.
 Create a detailed sewing procedure for each style of garment.
  Use quality fabrics and trimming materials.
 Inspect garments for defects before shipping them out.

5.7. AQL
± Generally AQL method is used for final inspection.
± It is referred to as the “Acceptable Quality Level” and is defined as the
percentage of defective pieces which are accepted by the buyer from the
manufacturer.
± Acceptable Quality Levels are 2.5%, 4%, 6.5% and 10%
± Lot or batch size: total how many pieces inspector is going to inspect.
± Sample size code letter: This code is indicative a range of batch size.
± Sample size: how many pieces will be picked up for inspection from the
total offered pieces.
± Ac (Accepted): The number in this column denotes that if the inspector not
finds up to that many defective pieces the shipment will be accepted by
buyer.
± Re (Rejected): On the other hand number in this column denotes that if
the inspector finds that much defective pieces or more than the listed
number, the shipment will be rejected by buyer.
± An AQL of 2.5 % and a lot size of 1200 garments and the sample size is 80
garments.
± If the number of defective garments found are 5 the total lot is
"Acceptable" suppose if the defective garments found is 6, the total lot is
"Reject/ Re-Check".

Costing

5.8. DEFINITIONS
 Costing Process of estimating the total resource investment required to
merchandise, produce and market a product.



5.9. MAIN FACTORS THAT AFFECT COSTING – GARMENT
Fabric
± This is generally the most important factor in the costing of a garment,
accounting for nearly 60-70% of the cost of a basic style garment. Fabric
can often be the significant factor in evaluating the cost of producing any
garment.
Trims
± Apart from fabric, anything else used to complete a garment goes into the
Trims category. This can include threads, buttons, zippers, elastic, rivets,
lace, labels or any other accessories. The cost, quantity, and the labor
required to apply trims all add up to the cost of a garment.
Cut, Make & Trim charges
± Also called CMT (cut-make-trim) or CMTP (cut-make-trim-pack) cost,
these are the „cost of making‟ charges.
± Calculate CMT by multiplying the total cost per hour to the total number of
hours it takes to make the style, divided by the number of units produced.
Labels and Packaging
± The cost of labels and packaging depends on the size, thickness, printing
mechanism and material choose. But the number of labels per item plays a
big role too and should be kept in mind.
Transportation and Logistic Costs
± The expenses involved in moving products from the factory to the store or
warehouse is filed under freight and shipping costs. They can vary widely
depending on where are sourcing the products from.
Profit of the company
± As self-explanatory as it gets, this „cost‟ is essentially what is business
earns for selling the goods produced.
5.10. COST OF GARMENT

1. Gather information: Determine the style, design, and specifications of the

garment you want to cost. Collect details such as fabric type, trims,
buttons, zippers, and any other components required.
2. Material cost: Calculate the cost of all materials needed to make the
garment. This includes fabric, lining, interlining, buttons, zippers, thread,
labels, tags, and any additional trims. Determine the quantity required for
each material and multiply it by the unit cost.
3. Labor cost: Determine the labor cost involved in making the garment.
This depends on factors such as the complexity of the design, construction
techniques, and the skill level of the workers. Calculate the average time it
takes to complete the garment and multiply it by the labor cost per hour or
per unit.
4. Overhead expenses: Consider the overhead costs associated with
producing the garment. This includes expenses like rent, utilities,
equipment, maintenance, insurance, and administrative costs. Divide the
total overhead expenses by the number of garments produced to allocate a
portion of these costs to each unit.
5. Packaging and shipping: If applicable, include the cost of packaging
materials, such as boxes, bags, tissue paper, and labels. Additionally, factor
in any shipping costs, including transportation, customs fees, and duties.
6. Markup and profit margin: Decide on the desired profit margin for
business. Add a markup percentage to cover your operating expenses,
marketing costs, and to generate profit. The markup percentage will vary
depending on factors like market demand, competition, and positioning of
brand.
7. Calculate the cost: Add up all the costs from steps 2 to 6. The total cost
will give you the amount required to produce one unit of the garment.

Cost of Garment = (Material Cost + Labor Cost + Overhead Expenses +

Packaging and Shipping) + Markup for Profit
5.11. CMT OF APPAREL

± Cut, Make & Trim charges – Also called CMT (cut-make-trim) or CMTP (cut-
make-trim-pack) cost, these are the „cost of making‟ charges.
± Calculate CMT by multiplying the total cost per hour to the total number of hours
it takes to make the style, divided by the number of units produced.
± The contractor‟s profit is also added to this cost.

5.12. ELEMENTS OF APPAREL COSTING

a. Direct material cost
 Direct material is that material which can be easily identified and related
with specific product, job, and process.
 The direct material cost is approximately 45-60% of the apparel‟s cost,
depending on the types of the apparel.
 An example of direct material cost in apparel manufacturing may include
yarn, fabric, zippers, buttons, fabric fillings, hooks, labels, etc.
b. Direct labor cost
 Labor is the main factor of production. For conversion of raw material
into finished goods, human resource is needed, and such human resource
is termed as labor.
 Direct labor is that labor which can be easily identified and related with
specific product, job, process, and activity.
 Thus, direct labor cost means the wages given to the workers who are
directly involved in manufacturing of the apparels.
c. Direct expenses
 All cost incurred in the production of finished goods other than material
cost and labor cost are termed as expenses.
 These are expenses which are directly, easily, and wholly allocated to
specific cost center or cost units.
 An example would be a company purchases any license to run a machine
or process or any royalty paid by the company to another company as a
part of business.
  Also, any small contract work involved, such as embroidery, special
finish to an apparel, etc., is treated as direct expense.
d. Indirect cost or overhead
 Another element of cost is indirect cost, the cost that cannot be traced to
apparel in an economic way.
 Overhead covers all other cost not associated with direct material and
labor cost.
 Other overhead costs may include machinery depreciation, factory
insurance, electricity, overtime and the support department.
 The support departments are not directly involved in production but assist
in production.

5.13. LABOR COSTING

 Determine the labor cost involved in making the garment.
 This depends on factors such as the complexity of the design,
construction techniques, and the skill level of the workers.
 Calculate the average time it takes to complete the garment and multiply
it by the labor cost per hour or per unit.
 Labor cost/garment: (SAM X Labor cost per minute)/ Line Efficiency%

5.14. BASIC CALCULATION OF MANUFACTURING COSTS

 Direct material
 Total Direct Materials Costs = Beginning Inventory + Added
Purchases – Ending Inventory
 Direct labor
 Direct labor cost per unit = direct labor hourly rate x time for
producing one unit
 Direct labor hourly rate = labor cost ÷ number of hours worked
 Time for producing one unit = total no. of products ÷ total no. of
direct labor hours
 Manufacturing Overhead
 Manufacturing overhead/unit = total overhead ÷ total units
produced in a given period
 Monthly manufacturing overhead rate = monthly overhead costs ÷
monthly sales x 100
 University Questions

1. What is the significance of ply alignment during spreading process

and how can we maintain that? (2 Marks)
± During fabric spreading, all plies should be spread according to the
marker dimension.
± Here, the length and width of fabric must be equal to marker length and
width.

2. Explain the significance of TOP sample (2 Marks)

± TOP is abbreviated as Top of Production.
± Factory starts bulk production after the PP sample approval.
± After the bulk production start, few garments are picked randomly from
the production output of the first production run for quality checking by
the buyers QA.
± These samples are known as Top of Production sample.

3. Define and explain the use of sealer sample (4 Marks)
± A sealed sample means approved garment construction, approved trims
attached to the garment by buyer.
± A buyer uses different color tags for the different sample type, like Green
tag is used for Size set samples and Red Tag is used for PP samples.
Once attached these tags cannot be removed easily from the sample
garment.
± Tags help merchandisers, production team and quality personnel to
identify easily the correct sample for production from other samples of
the same style. 
± If there is any confusion related to garment construction at the time of
production, the production department just refers to the sealed sample.
± At the time of quality inspection, buyer representative refers to the sealed
sample. Shipment inspection is done based on the sealed sample.

4. Fusing machine diagram (4 Marks)
(i) Flat Bed Press

Vertical action Scissor action

(ii) Conveyor Fusing Press diagram

5. Parts of zipper (4 Marks)

� Teeth – This is the central part of a zipper- The track of the zipper which
can be of plastic or metal. The zipper is opened or closed by using these
teeth.
� Tape – This is the fabric on either side of the zipper teeth. It is usually
made of polyester. This is stitched to the fabric to attach the zipper
� Pull and slider – This is the metal/plastic piece which opens and closes
the zipper teeth by moving along the teeth track. The pull is used to move
the slider.
� Stopper – this is the metal thing at the edge of the zipper teeth which
stops the zipper teeth from separating fully. There are stoppers on top of
the teeth and at the bottom.
6. What is the significance of ply tension during spreading
processand how can we maintain that? (2 Marks)
± It is important for the spreading to have correct ply tension.
± If the plies are spread with very low tension they will lie in ridges with
irregular fullness.
± If plies are spread in a stretched state they will have tension while held in
the lay, but will contract after relaxation or after cutting or during sewing,
thus it causes shrinking the garment parts to a smaller size than the pattern
pieces.

7. What is the significance of ply direction during spreading
processand how can we maintain that? (2 Marks)
± There are various types of fabrics, in terms of surface direction, that are
available in the market which is designed, either way, one way – either
way, or one way only.
± If the fabric doesn‟t have any particular nap direction, place the pattern
in any way according to grain line but if the fabric has nap direction,
place the pattern pieces in the same direction in the marker plan, so it is
essential that the fabric is spread in a way that maintains that same
direction.

8. Guide Attachments (2 Marks)
� Guides are used where sewing must take place in a certain position on a
garment, usually a certain distance from a raw edge in a conventional
superimposed seam where a narrow item such a lace or braid must be
correctly placed on the another such as a patch pocket on a shirt, skirt or
trouser.
a. Edge Guides
b. Stitching Jig
c. Rack Guide
9. Various types of fabrics (Construction Based) – (2 Marks)

� Types of Fabrics
 Woven
 Knitted
 Nonwoven
 Others
� Woven Fabric: A woven fabric is composed of two basic series of
yarncalled warp and weft.
� Knitted Fabric: Fabric which are constructed by interlocking a series of
loop of one or more yarns by hand or by machine are called knitted
Fabrics.
� Non-woven Fabric: It is produced by mixing fibers and making into the
form of a thick layer of web of width corresponding to desired width of
the fabric.
� Other Fabrics: Braids, Lace, Netting, Felt etc.

10. Salesman sample (4 Marks)

± Salesman sample is used by the sales team of buyers to enhance the
sales of any garment.
± Buyer sends the sample by a salesman in the market to receive market
feedback from the customers.
± These are generally put on display in retail stores or exhibited at trade
shows to get orders from respective retail channels.
± It is done approximately 200-500pcs depending on the customers and
season.
± In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is used or sample
yardage need to be used.
± This sample also very important stage of sampling as the sales of buyer
depends upon this sample presentation, look, feel of fabric is important.



11. Size set sample (4 Marks)
± The objective of the size set sample is checking the garment fit of
multiple sizes. The size set samples are normally made for jump sizes.
± Like S, L, XXL. A number of samples required for size set depend on
the buyer's requirement.
± Pattern grading is checked in size set sample.
± If the technical team found some sizes are not giving correct fit,
they docorrection on the pattern grading until they get the correct fit.
± After the size set approval, the supplier can develop the PP sample.
± Size set samples are made using actual fabric.
± In case actual fabric is not available, the similar quality fabric can be
used.(Final decision for fabric quality is buyers‟)

12. A purchasing guide to clothing buttons
a. Type of Clothing
b. Type of Fabric
c. Aesthetic or Style
d. Function or Decoration
e. Type of Button
f. Ligne Number
g. Color Selection
h. Attachment Method
i. Special Requirements

13. Types of zipper (2 Marks and 4 marks)

Metal Zipper: In Metal zippers are availablein four different finishes.
 Aluminum Chain: is constructed principally from aluminum.
 Brass Chain: is constructed of brass, typically a combination of copper
and zinc.
 Antique Brass Chain: made from brass is chemically treated to
givethe appearance of worn or tarnished brass.
  Black Oxidized Chain: made from brass that is chemically treated to
a black matte finish.
Molded Plastic Chain
 These plastic zippers have individually injected molded teeth, fused
directly onto the tape of the zipper.
 The resins to use to manufacture the molded plastic chain are
incrediblystrong.
 These zippers are ideal for many medium and heavy weight garments
orany outdoor application.
Coil (Nylon) Chain
 Coil zippers are often referred to as nylon zippers.
 The teeth of these zippers are extruded plastic, sewn onto the zipper tape.
 These zippers are very flexible and are available in a variety of
sizes(gauges).
 Coil zippers have many applications from fashion-wear to all types
oftents and canvas goods and bags.

14. Draw and explain stitch types 406 and 407

 406 – A twin needle covers seam stitch. It is formed using two needle
threads and one looper thread. It is often used to cover a raw edge on
bottom hems. It produces a flat and comfortable seam which is useful
for cover seaming, sewing belt loops, binding, and attaching elastic to
underwear.
  407 – A three needle cover seam which is a variation of stitch 406. It is
formed with 3 needle threads and one looper thread. It is stronger and
more elastic andis also used for undergarments.

15. Direct cost vs. Indirect cost

16. Stitch 512, 516

Stitch 512
 Also known as a 4-thread mock safety stitch and is created with 2
needle threads and 2 looper threads.
 In this stitch, the upper side of the stitch resembles the upper side of a
truesafety stitch (stitch type 516).
  It is used to create strong seams on the edges of fabric with very
goodextension.
 It has high thread consumption but creates a more secure seam than the
504stitch.
 Seaming Stretch Knits, Woven.

Stitch 516
 Stitch type 516, or a 5 thread “full safety” stitch, is another combination
stitch type. It is formed with 2 needle threads and 3 looper threads.
 This stitch type combines 401 chain stitch with 504 three thread over
edge (over edge full safety stitch).
 The chain stitch (401) part is what holds the weight while the three-
thread over-edge (504) element covers the edge of the material and
provides additional seam security.
 It is used for joining panels where elasticity and seam security are important.
 Safety Stitch Seaming Wovens & Knits
17. Absorption costing

± Absorption costing is the costing system that recovers overhead costs

by assigning a percentage to some element of direct labor.
± It considers all the manufacturing costs, both variable and non-
variable, to be product costs that can be allocated to the products.
± An overhead application rate is a percentage determined to be rep of
all the overhead costs.
± The overhead application rate may be determined by dividing the total
factory overhead by the total direct labor costs for the period.

18. If a fabric roll to roll shade variation what should be the

laytype to be used. Explain the same.

 If find shade variation they have to segregate those pieces into

different shades on the basis of closer shade like Shade# A,
Shade# B, Shade# C etc.
 Open layout
 In this type of layout, the fabric is not folded at all and the
selvedgeswill be parallel to each other.
 This is used especially for designs which require right and left
halves to be cut separately. Here the pattern will not be placed on
fold.

19. If a fabric end to end shade variation what should be the

laytype to be used. Explain the same.
 Open layout
 In this type of layout, the fabric is not folded at all and the
selvedgeswill be parallel to each other.
 This is used especially for designs which require right and left
halves to be cut separately. Here the pattern will not be placed on
fold.
 20. What should be the type of interlining to be used for a
women’s shirt made of 80s voile fabric? Explain the reason.
Woven interlining
± It was mainly 100% cotton fabrics made stiff by starch application
and was non-fusible.
± Normal cotton sheeting fabrics were applied with a layer of adhesive
that can be fixed to the shell fabric by application of heat or pressure.
± This formed a composite part of the fused shell part and supported
the outershell for better drape and look.
± Woven interlinings are majorly 100% cotton based with a thread
density of variable count as required for the weight or stiffness needed
for a particular use.

21. What should be the type of interlining to be used for a knitted

shirt? Explain the reason.
Knitted interlining
± Knitted fabrics have a large number of variations in terms of loop
structures to impart flexibility/stretch together with the body
(volume) and strength/stability.
± They are kept lightweight and soft hand feel of the laminate by
usingfine bulked (texturized) filaments.

22. What do you mean by allied fabricators in garment industry?

Material Producer
± At the mill level, materials are produced and sold to apparels firms
such as fabrics, closures, sewing threads, trims, and accessories.
± Some apparel manufacturers are backward vertically integrated with
textile production and therefore may produce in their own plants all or
some of the materials used to make their garments.
± Some apparel manufacturers buy materials from vendors‟ open stock
and others with their specification.
23. Explain any two attachments to be used in a sewing line of
trouser manufacturing factory.
a. Belt Loop Folder: It is used for preparing belt loop by using a single
needlelock stitch machine. Here stripe of fabric inserted on the folder.

b. Waist Band Folder: It is used for attaching waistband by using double

needlelockstitch machine. It binds seam on the waistband.

24. Explain any two attachments to be used in a sewing line of shirt

manufacturing factory.
1. Hemming Folder: It is excellent for continuous hemming on automatic
sewing operations. It‟s suitable for double needle lockstitch machine. Used to
make narrow hems and straight hemming operations. Output piece seam line
diagram is shown in the image.

2. Sleeve Attaching Folder: It is used for sleeve attaching operation by using

a single needle lock stitch machine. Output piece seam line diagram is shown
in the image.
25. 10 Point fabric inspection system

± It is one of the Fabric inspection systems where a maximum of 10

penalty points can be awarded to one defect.
± This is the earliest inspection system and is designed to identify defects
and assign each defect a value based on the severity of the defect.

Warp Defects

…..Size of defects →→→→→→→→→→→→→→Penalty

 Up to 1 inch →→→→→→→→→→→→→1 Point

 1 to 5 inches →→→→→→→→→→→→→3 Points
 5 to 10 inches →→→→→→→→→→→→5 Points
 10 to 36 inches →→→→→→→→→→→10 Points

Filling/Weft Defects

…..Size of defects →→→→→→→→→→→→→Penalty

 Up to 1 inch →→→→→→→→→→→→ 1 Point

 1 to 5 inches →→→→→→→→→→→→3 Points
 5 inches to half the width →→→→→→5 Points
 Half to Full width →→→→→→→→→→10 Points

Under the 10 Points system, a piece is graded as “First”, if the total

penalty points do not exceed the total yardage of the piece.
26. What is wadding?
 Wadding is used as a layer of insulation between fabrics – typically used
in quilt making.
 Essentially what it does is fill the quilts enabling them to keep warm.
 Different types of wadding include cotton, polyester, wool, cotton/poly
blends and even fusible batting.

27. Sew-ability of fabric testing

± Seam strength,
± Seam puckering,
± Seam slippage,
± Resistance to fraying,
± Lubricant content.

28. Inspection
± It is a systematic visual evaluation of textiles, fabrics, garments, and their
components to ensure they meet the quality standards and specification.
 Raw material inspection
 In-process inspection
 Final inspection

29. Marker mode

± The marker mode is determined by fabric symmetry and the
directionality of the fabric.
± The term nap is used to indicate the fabric is directional it is different
from end to end and it is created by its structure (cut and uncut piles,
finish, or a directional print).
± There are three types of marker modes:
 1. Nap-either-way (N/E/W): The nap-either- way marker is made for
symmetric and non-directional fabrics, where there is no restriction on which
way the patterns are oriented. The patterns may be either oriented “down” or
“up”, or placed in the marker wherever they fit best, with only consideration
for grain line.
2. Nap-one-way (N/O/W): The nap- one-way marker is made for
asymmetrical and directional fabrics, the orientation of pattern pieces is
extremely important to the consistency and quality of the product. These
fabrics require that all pattern pieces be placed on a marker in only one
direction.
3. Nap-up-and-down (N/U/D): The Nap-up-and-down marker may be made
for asymmetrical and directional fabrics, such as corduroy, it may be
possible for all the pattern pieces of one size to be placed in one direction
and another size placed in the opposite direction.

30. Cutting process

31. Defects in fusing
± Strike back: glue penetrates through the interlining.
± Strike through: glue penetrates into the fabric and comes to the face side.
± Shrinkage: In this problem can be seen puckering or raveling surface of
shell fabric.
± Delamination: Can be seen bubbled appearance of shell fabric.
± Color change: According to higher temperature colour patches can be
seen.
± Bubbling: localized delamination. Bubbled and puckered area on the face
fabric can be seen.
± Boardiness: glue becomes flattened. Too much resins and irregular resin
placement will be occurred boardiness.

32. Fabric Defect

It is defined as the departure or non-conformance of some characteristics of
the fabric from its intended level or state. There are two types of defects
related to materials and products.
A) Patent Defects- are those flaws and irregularities that can be seen during
inspection of material. These are clearly visible and defined by the buyer. So
some buyer may define something as a defect others may not.
B) Latent Defect- is a hidden problem that is not apparent even after careful
inspection. These are problems related to performance, age, testing and use.

33. Types of Buttons

 Flat
 Shank
 Stud
 Toggle
 Decorative
 Snap
ALL THE BEST