Crochet this stunning Wildrose Backpack to hold your essentials on all your

travels and adventures, from music festivals to the beach! The modern
granny square is centered as a focal point with a variety of crochet
stitches and techniques providing plenty of visual interest. The sturdy strap
is part of the drawstring closure that allows for easy opening and closing
of the backpack. An interior pocket holds your cell phone, and an
optional tassel can be added for some pops of color!

Finished Dimensions: 11”/28 cm wide, 12.5”/32 cm tall, 22”/56 cm circumference

1
 The Wildrose Backpack Pattern
***PLEASE follow along with my three step-by-step blog posts to supplement this written pattern and
to read the making behind this backpack on my blog: https://www.allaboutami.com

Materials Notes cont’d

• 4 skeins of 24/7 Cotton in Taupe • Next, two rectangles are crocheted
(worsted weight level 4 yarn) and sewn together to form the sturdy
• 2.75 mm and 3.75 mm crochet bottom of the backpack so that it
hooks does not bulge too much. These
• Yarn Needle rectangles are then slip stitched onto
• Stitch markers the bottom of the tube.
• Embroidery floss (optional for tassel) • Lastly, a long tube is crocheted to
form the strap. Both ends of the strap
are woven into certain chain gaps to
Notes form the drawstring closure. Each end
• Gauge: Center granny square: is then seamed onto the bottom back
5” x 5”, 18 sc + 20 rows = 4”/10 cm corner of the backpack.
• This backpack is constructed using • An optional tassel is created as a
a variety of crochet stitches and is decorative touch for the backpack.
segmented into different sections. • Throughout the pattern, please take
• First, the center granny square is note whether you are working in
crocheted along with four triangles. turned rows or seamed rounds.
• The four triangles are seamed to
the granny square to create a large
square. Abbreviations & Special sts
• Next, turned rows are crocheted • Magic Ring (MR): Make a loop. Hold
onto the sides of the large square to yarn where ends cross. Insert hook into
form the sides of the backpack. loop and pull up working yarn. Yarn
Once the desired width is achieved, over and work beginning chains. Work
the sides are whip stitched together subsequent stitches in magic ring and
along the back - a tube has now then pull tight to close.
been formed. • Puff stitch (puff st): [YO, insert hook in
• Stitches are picked up along the next st, YO, pull up a loop], repeat 3
top and bottom of the tube to form times in same st, YO, draw yarn
the top and bottom edging. This through 7 loops on hook.
edging is worked in joined rounds. • Beginning cluster: Ch 3, [YO, insert
Some of the rounds are worked with hook in st or sp, YO, pull up a loop, YO,
chain stitch gaps, and the draw through 2 loops], rep 2 times in
crocheted strap will be woven same st or sp, YO, draw through 3
through these gaps later on. loops on hook.

2
Abbreviations cont’d Pattern
•Cluster: [YO, insert hook in st or sp, YO, Please reference Appendix A (Granny
draw up a loop, YO, draw through 2 Square tutorial) on page 8 and Appendix
loops on hook], rep 3 times in same st B (Wildrose Backpack Step-by-step
or sp, YO, draw through 4 loops on Tutorial) on page 11 for detailed pictures.
hook.
• Extended single crochet: Insert hook Center Granny Square
through next stitch. Pull up a loop and
extend the loop to desired height
(worked in rounds)
(elongate it to match the height of the Using 3.75 mm hook,
rest of the stitches). YO, pull through
both loops on hook. Round 1: Make Magic Ring. Chain 4
• Extended half double crochet: YO, (counts as 1st double crochet and chain
insert hook through next stitch. Pull up 1). *1 dc, ch 1*, rep 11 times in ring. Join
a loop and extend the loop to desired with slip stitch to 3rd chain of beginning
height (elongate it to match the height chain 4. (12 ch-1 spaces and 12 dc).
of the rest of the stitches). YO, pull Round 2: Slip stitch into ch-1 space, Chain
through 3 loops on hook. 3. *Puff st, chain 1* in each ch-1 space
• Half double crochet in third loops: around. Join with slip stitch to 3rd chain of
When working half double crochets, beginning ch-3. (12 puffs)
three loops are created: a front loop, Round 3: Slip stitch 2 to get to ch-1 space.
back loop, and third loop (located Work beginning cluster in space. [*Ch 1,
behind the front and back loops). cluster* in next 2 ch-1 spaces, Ch 3.
Take note in the pattern where stitches Cluster in next ch-1 sp]. Repeat
are worked in the third loops. everything between brackets [ ] 2 more
• Reverse single crochet/waistcoat times. *Ch 1, cluster* in next 2 ch-1
stitch: Working from left to right spaces. Ch 3, slip stitch to 3rd chain of
(opposite direction you normally beg ch-3. (12 clusters)
crochet), insert hook from front to back Round 4: Slip stitch 2 to get to ch-1 space.
in stitch to the right. YO, pull up a loop, Work beginning cluster in space. Ch 1,
YO, pull through 2 loops on hook. work cluster in next space, ch 1. In ch-3
space, work *cluster, ch 3, cluster*. [In
next 2 ch-1 sps, work *ch 1, cluster*, Ch 1.
In Ch-3 sp, work *cluster, ch 3, cluster*].
Repeat everything between brackets [ ] 2
more times. Ch 1, slip stitch to 3rd chain of
beg ch-3. (16 clusters)

3
 Position 4 triangles on diagonal edges so
Round 5: Slip stitch 2 to get to ch-1 space, that they form one large square. Flip the
ch 3. Work 2 dc in same space. 3 dc in pieces upside down and begin attaching:
next ch-1 sp. [In next ch-3 sp, *3 dc, ch 3, whip stitch triangles to square, leaving front
3dc*. 3 dc in next 3 ch-1 sp.]. Repeat and back loops of center granny square
everything between brackets [ ] 2 more untouched (attach triangles to horizontal
times. In next ch-3 sp, *3 dc, ch 3, 3dc*. 3 bars on the back side of the granny
dc in last chain space. Slip stitch to 3rd square).
chain of beg ch-3. (60 dc)
Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as dc). Dc in each Backpack Sides
dc until you reach dc before Ch 3 (7 dc). We will now be picking up stitches along
Skip next dc, *3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc* in Ch-3 the sides of the large square and working
corner. [Skip next dc, dc across until in turned rows to crochet the sides of the
reach dc before Ch 3 (13 dc). Skip next backpack.
dc, *3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc* in ch-3 corner.].
Repeat everything between brackets [ ] 2 Using 3.75 mm hook,
more times. Skip next dc, dc 5. Slip stitch Row 1: Starting in bottom right corner,
to top of Ch 3. (76 dc) Fasten off. pick up 32 single crochet stitches. To do
so, make a slip knot. Insert your crochet
Triangle (make 4 – worked in hook into the right corner. Add the slip
turned rows) knot and pull through. Yarn over and
chain 1. Insert your hook into an
Using 3.75 mm hook, adjacent space, yarn over, pull up a
loop, yarn over, pull through both loops
Make Magic Ring. to work a single crochet. Keep repeating
Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc this process to pick up 32 single crochets
in ring, Ch 2, 3 dc in ring. (6 dc) along the side edge of the large square.
Row 2: Ch 4, turn. 2 dc in same st. Work Work an extended single crochet at the
1 dc in each dc until Ch-2 corner space. corner of the granny square at the dip
Work *2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc* in corner space. between the two triangles. (32 sts).
Work 1 dc in each dc until last st. Work 3 R2: Ch 1, turn. Starting in second st from
dc in last st. (14 dc). hook, sc across. (32 sts).
Row 3: Repeat R2. (22 dc) R3-40: Repeat Row 2. Fasten off. Do not
Row 4: Repeat R2. (30 dc). cut the yarn when finished the first side as
Fasten off and leave long end for you can use this to work on the bottom
sewing. edging later on.
Repeat R1-40 on the other side of the
Optional: Block center granny square large square to crochet the other side of
and four triangles to ensure they are flat. the backpack (I used a new ball of yarn
to crochet the second side). You will
Position center granny square so that it is begin crocheting in the top left corner.
a diamond (one corner is pointing Fasten off, cut the yarn, and leave long
upwards and one corner is pointing end for sewing on this second side. Once
downwards). both sides of the backpack have been

4
crocheted and the desired width has R4: Chain 1, sc in same st. Sc 2 in third
been achieved, flip the entire piece inside loops and bump of chain 1. *Sc 3 in third
out. Use yarn tail from the top and whip loops and bump of chain 1*, rep around.
stitch the edges together from the top to Slip stitch to top of first sc. (114 sc)
the bottom. Leave the working yarn on R5: Chain 1, sc in same st. Sc around. Slip
the bottom (do not cut) as this can be stitch to top of first sc. (114 sts)
used when working the bottom edging R6-8: Repeat R5.
later on. A tube has been formed. Flip R9: Chain 2, hdc in same st. Hdc 2, ch 1,
the tube right side out so that the correct skip 1. *Hdc 3, Ch 1, Sk 1*, rep around until
side is facing outwards. last two stitches. Hdc 2 in last 2 sts. Slip
Top Edging stitch to top of first hdc. (114 sts). [This is the
round through which we will be weaving in
We will be picking up stitches along the
the straps later on.]
top edge of the tube and working in
R10: Repeat R4.
joined rounds. Start at back seam where
R11-14: Repeat R5.
you whip stitched the side edges
Switch to 2.75 mm hook,
together.
R15: Chain 1, work reverse single crochet or
crab stitch around. (114 sts).
Using 3.75 mm hook,
Fasten off.
Round 1: Make a slip knot. Insert crochet
hook at back seam, add slip knot onto Bottom Edging
hook, pull through. Chain 2, work 1 hdc
Flip backpack upside down and repeat
in same stitch. Yarn over, insert your
Rounds 1-8 of Top Edging. DO NOT CUT
hook into an adjacent space, yarn over
the working yarn of the bottom edging as
and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull
we will be using this yarn to slip stitch the
through all three loops (a half double
bottom edging to the bottom of the
crochet has been created). Keep
backpack.
repeating this process to pick up 114 half
double crochets around, trying to space Bottom of Backpack
them as evenly as possible. When
approaching the dip of the “V” of the (Rectangles- make 2)
large square (in the center front of the Using 3.75 mm hook and working in turned
tube), work 3 extended half double rows,
crochets to help even out the height of Chain 42.
the round. At the end of the round, slip Row 1: Starting in second chain from hook,
stitch to the top of the first hdc. (114 hdc) sc across. (41 sts)
R2: Chain 2, hdc in same st. Hdc in third R2: Chain 1, turn. Starting in second st
loops around. Slip stitch to top of first from hook, sc across. (41 sts)
hdc. (114 hdc) R3-19: Repeat Row 2.
R3: Chain 2, hdc in same st. Working in Seam two rectangles together along four
third loops, hdc 2, ch 1, skip 1. Working in sides using running stitch, leaving front and
third loops, *Hdc 3, Ch 1, Sk 1*, rep back loops of long edges untouched (for
around until last two stitches. Hdc 2 in these sides, work running stitch under first
last 2 sts. Slip stitch to top of first hdc. row of sts).
(114 sts)
5
Use stitch markers to attach bottom Round 2: Single crochet in horizontal bars
rectangles to tube. Locate the middle around. (6 sc)
stitch of the tube (use center of the
granny square as guide) and attach Repeat Round 2 until strap measures
stitch marker to both the front and back 55.5”/141 cm. Keep in mind that the
centers of the tube. Attach these stitch strap will stretch a bit with wear.
markers to the 21st stitch of the rectangle Once desired length is achieved, fasten
(both top and bottom as this is the exact off and leave long 37”/94 cm end.
center of the rectangle). Count 20
stitches away from center stitch marker
Weaving in Strap
and attach corners of rectangle to
corresponding stitches of the tube
• We will be weaving in the strap
(repeat for all 4 corners). Add 2 more
through Round 9 of the top edging. In
stitch markers to attach short edges of
Round 9, there are 28 holes or Chain 1
rectangles to short edges of backpack.
spaces.
Using working yarn from bottom edging,
• Starting from the center back (where
begin slip stitching bottom rectangles to
each round begins and ends with slip
bottom edging, matching up stitches
stitch) and working clockwise, place a
along the way. Insert crochet hook
stitch marker above the following holes:
through front and back loops of bottom
3, 13, 17, 27.
edging and front and back loops of both
• When front of backpack is facing you,
rectangles, yarn over, and pull through all
insert each end of the strap through the
loops. Continue in this manner around
13th and 17th hole. Weave each end
until entire perimeter of rectangle has
through every second hole. Each end
been attached to the tube.
will permanently exit the backpack (so
Strap ends are facing outwards) at the 3rd
and 27th hole.
Using 2.75 mm hook and leaving long
• Using long initial ends, whip stitch each
initial end of 37”/94 cm,
end of the strap to the bottom left and
right corners of the backpack securely.
Chain 7.
Attach them at the point where the
Row 1: Starting in second chain from
bottom rectangles were whip stitched
hook, sc 6.
to the bottom edging. For extra
We will now begin crocheting in
security, flip backpack inside out. Use
continuous rounds. Make sure the
yarn needle and weave both strap
wrong side is facing outwards, so we will
ends through the bottom rectangles so
be working counter-clockwise. The
they meet at the center. Tie multiple
wrong side or back side of single
knots and weave in ends.
crochets has horizontal bars (these
horizontal bars are not visible on the
right or correct side of the stitches).
Rather than working in the front or back
loops as we typically do, we will be
working in these horizontal bars.
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Interior Cell Phone Pocket Tassel (optional)
{This pocket measures 5”/12.7 cm wide, • Cut 25 strands of yarn approximately
6”/15 cm long – adjust as necessary to 16”/41 cm in length (can wrap around
fit your own cell phone.} hardcover book to get consistent
lengths).
Using 3.75 mm hook and working in • Fold strands in half. Cut 20”/51 cm
turned rows, strand of yarn and tie top of tassel to
form a loop extending from the top (so
Chain 22. tassel can be attached to backpack
Row 1: Starting in second chain from later on) and hide ends with rest of
hook, Sc across. (21 sts) strands.
R2: Chain 1, turn. Starting in second st • Wrap various colors of embroidery floss
from hook, sc across. (21 sts) along strands to add pops of color,
R3-35: Repeat Row 2. leaving 0.75”/2 cm at top. We wrapped
Fasten off and leave long end for 3 different colors approximately 0.4”/1
sewing. Use running stitch and attach cm in length each.
cell phone pocket to inside of back • Wrap packing tape around bottom of
panel, attaching down one side, along tassel. Cut along edge of tape to trim
the bottom, and up the other side of edges. Loop tassel through strap.
the pocket. • Final tassel length: 7”/18 cm

Congratulations, your beautiful Wildrose Backpack is complete! Don’t forget

to share your finished projects with me through social media! I love seeing
how you each put your own personal touches on your projects! If you have
any questions at all about this pattern, e-mail me at:
[email protected] ! Check out my blog and store for more crochet
patterns!

This pattern is an original pattern by Stephanie Lau of All About Ami. Please do not claim
this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but
please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but
please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me,
Stephanie Lau of All About Ami, and provide a link to my
blog www.AllAboutAmi.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory
manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for being respectful and for your understanding!

7
 Appendix A: Granny Square Tutorial
Start off with a Magic Ring (I have a To begin Round 2, chain 3 and work a
step-by-step tutorial on my blog) and puff stitch. You work a puff stitch and a
chain 4 - this initial chain 4 counts as the chain 1 in each ch-1 space around. By
first double crochet and Chain 1. the end of Round 2, you should have 12
puff stitches separated by chain 1's.

Work double crochets separated by

chain 1's into the Magic Ring (in total,
there will be 12 dc's and 12 chain-1's). Once again, you then slip stitch 2 to get
Pull the initial tail to close the center into the ch-1 space. We are now ready to
hole. To close off Round 1, join with a begin Round 3!
slip stitch to the 3rd chain of the initial
Chain 4. We want to begin Round 2 in a
ch-1 space. Thus, work a slip stitch into
the ch-1 space so that we can begin
there. You will see this technique all
throughout the granny square as we
usually want to begin working the round
in a ch-1 space, so we will need to work
slip stitches to get to this position.

Work a beginning cluster and then work

two more clusters in the subsequent ch-1
spaces. It will now be time to form the
first corner of the granny square. To do
so, chain 3, and then work the next
cluster. Repeat this pattern around so
that you have four chain 3 spaces (one
in each corner), each separated by
three clusters.

8
 At the end of Round 4, you should have
16 clusters with ch-3 spaces in each
corner (each separated by 4 clusters). To
get ready for Round 5, slip stitch to the
nearest ch-1 space.

In the first ch-1 space, chain 3 and work

2 double crochets in the same space. In
To begin Round 4, slip stitch 2 to get to each ch-1 space, you will work 3 double
the nearest ch-1 space. crochets. When you come to the ch-3
spaces (in each corner), you will work *3
dc, ch 3, 3 dc* as indicated by the arrow
below. By the end of Round 5, you will
have 60 double crochets.

You will work clusters in each ch-1 gap.

When you come to the first ch-3 space, it
is time to accentuate the corner. To do
so, work *cluster, ch 3, cluster* in this ch-3
space.

9
This is the first round where you do not The edges of your granny square may be
need to slip stitch to the nearest ch-1 a bit uneven. To accentuate the square
space! To begin Round 6, chain 3. Work 1 shape, even out the edges, and ensure
double crochet in each double crochet that the granny square is flat, you can
until you reach the double crochet use a steamer to block the granny
before the chain 3. Skip that double square like I did! Below you will see how I
crochet as indicated by the arrow. have pinned my granny square into
place on a foam mat (from the Dollar
Store) and am blasting it with hot steam.

In the corner ch-3 space, work *3 dc, ch

3, 3 dc*. Skip the double crochet
immediately after the ch-3 space as
indicated by the arrow.

You continue this pattern around, always

skipping the double crochets
immediately before and after the ch-3
spaces. Your granny square is now
complete!

10
 Appendix B: Wildrose Backpack
Step-by-step Tutorial
After crocheting the granny square, it is
time to crochet the four triangles. Start
off by working double crochets in a
Magic Ring. These triangles are worked in
turned rows. The triangle expands with
subsequent rows by working three
double crochets in the first and last stitch
and *2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc* in the corner
space. After four rows, the triangle is
complete.

Flip the pieces upside down so that the

attachment will be less visible. Whip stitch
the triangles to the granny square,
leaving the front and back loops of the
centre granny square untouched so that
they will be visible from the front. Locate
the horizontal bars on the back side of
the granny square as indicated by the
arrows, and attach the triangles to these
bars.
To give the granny square and triangles
better shape with sharper edges and
definition, you can block the pieces. I
pinned them into place on a foam mat
from the dollar store and blasted them
with hot steam. After the pieces have
been blocked, it is time to attach them
together. Position the center granny
square so that it is a diamond (one
corner is pointing upwards and one
corner is pointing downwards). Position
the four triangles on the diagonal edges
of the granny square so that when put
together, they form one large square.

11
Keep going around, attaching all four Next, we will crochet the backpack sides
triangles to the granny square. To help by picking up stitches along the sides of
anchor each triangle, you can use the the large square. Starting from the
ends from the triangles and tie knots at bottom right corner (green stitch marker
each corner of the granny square. working towards the peach stitch
marker), pick up single crochets. To do
so, make a slip knot. Insert your crochet
hook into the right corner. Add the slip
knot and pull through. Yarn over and
chain 1. Insert your hook into an
adjacent space, yarn over, and pull up a
loop. Yarn over and pull through both
loops to work a single crochet. Keep
repeating this process to pick up 32
single crochets along the side edge of
the large square.

All four triangles have been attached to

the center granny square! I chose
Notice how there is a dip in each corner
which orientation I liked the best and
of the granny square between the two
placed a red stitch marker to show that
triangles. Work an extended single
I wanted this to be the top of the
crochet in this dip to help extend the
backpack.
loop to the desired length so that it
matches the height of the rest of the
stitches.

12
Keep working single crochets in turned
rows to form one side of the backpack.

Next, pick up stitches along the other side

of the large square to begin the other side
of the backpack (note: I used a new skein
of yarn to crochet the second side). You
will start from the top left corner (in picture
below as indicated by the peach stitch
marker). Once again, do not forget to
work an extended single crochet in that
dip.
We will now begin crocheting the top
edging of the backpack. Pick up stitches
along the top edge of the tube, starting at
the back seam where we whip stitched
the side edges together. Note that we will
be working in joined rounds for the edging.
Both sides of the backpack have been
crocheted and the desired width has
been achieved!

Pick up half double crochets along the top

edge. When you approach the dip of the
granny square corner between the two
triangles, work three extended half double
crochets to help even out the height of
the round. Pick up 114 half double
Flip the entire piece inside out, cut the crochets, trying to space them as evenly
top yarn, and whip stitch the edges as possible.
together from the top to the bottom.
Go through both the front and back
loops when whip stitching the edges
together. Leave the working yarn on
the bottom (do not cut) as this can be
used when working the bottom edging
later on. A tube has been formed. Flip
the tube right side out so that the
correct side is facing.

13
The first round of half double crochets is Next, you will crochet some rounds of
complete! single crochets, and then work the round
with half double crochets interspersed with
chain spaces once again (this is Round 9).
Round 9 is where we will be weaving our
straps in later on. Then, more single
crochet rounds will be worked, and at the
very end, you switch to a 2.75 mm hook
and work reverse single crochets (also
known as crab stitch) for the very last
round.

For Round 2, we will be working half

double crochets in the third loops.
Leave the front and back loops
untouched and work in the third loops
found behind the front and back loops.

It is now time to work the bottom edging

(you can continue using the yarn you left
from the backpack side). Flip the
For Round 3, we will be working in the backpack upside down and repeat
third loops once again. Work 3 half Rounds 1-8 of the top edging (do not work
double crochets, chain 1, then skip 1 to last reverse single crochet round). Do not
create this beautiful pattern. cut the working yarn at the bottom
edging as we will be using this yarn to slip
stitch the bottom edging to the bottom of
the backpack.

14
Now it is time to crochet the sturdy bottom
of the backpack which is composed of
two rectangles worked in turned rows.
Seam the two rectangles together along
the four sides using the running stitch.

Attach the center of the tube to the

center of the rectangle on both sides.
Count 20 stitches away from the center
stitch marker and attach corners of
rectangle to corresponding stitches of the
tube (repeat for all 4 corners). Add 2 more
stitch markers to attach short edges of
rectangles to short edges of backpack.
Leave the front and back loops of the
long edges untouched (for these sides,
work running stitch under first row of
stitches).

Using working yarn from bottom edging,

begin slip stitching bottom rectangles to
bottom edging, matching up stitches
along the way. Insert crochet hook
It is now time to attach the bottom of through front and back loops of bottom
the backpack to the bottom edging. edging and front and back loops of both
Locate the middle stitch of the tube rectangles, yarn over, and pull through all
(use the center of the granny square as loops.
a guide)- this middle stitch is indicated
by the light green stitch marker and
arrow in the next picture. Attach stitch
markers to both the front and back
centers of the tube. Locate the 21st
stitch of the rectangle (both top and
bottom as this is the exact center of the
rectangle).

15
Continue in this manner around until entire
perimeter of rectangle has been attached
to the tube.

Crochet an interior pocket for your cell

phone- I have the iPhone 7 Plus, but you Next it is time to crochet the sturdy strap.
can adjust the pattern as necessary to fit Using a 2.75 mm hook and leaving a long
your own cell phone. initial end of 37", chain 7. Starting in the
second chain from the hook, single
Crochet a rectangle by working in crochet 6.
turned rows and sew an optional square
ultraleather garment tag onto the
pocket using embroidery floss. Use the
running stitch and attach the cell phone
pocket to the inside of the back panel,
attaching down one side, along the
bottom, and up the other side. The
running stitch (as indicated by the
arrows) is less visible than whip stitching We will now begin crocheting in
the sides. continuous rounds. Ensure that the
wrong side is facing outwards, so we will
be working counter-clockwise. Notice
that the wrong or back side of single
crochets has horizontal bars (these
horizontal bars are not visible on the
right or correct side of the stitches).
Rather than working in the front or back
loops as we typically do, we will be
working in these horizontal bars.

16
Continue single crocheting in these Hole #13 and Hole #3 are visible from the
horizontal bars around until your strap side of the backpack.
measures 55.5". Once the desired length
has been achieved, fasten off and
leave a long 37" end.

Hole #3 and Hole #27 are visible from the

back of the backpack. Note that the
strap ends will come out of these holes.

It is now time to weave in the strap

through Round 9 of the top edging! In
Round 9, there are 28 holes or Chain 1
spaces. Starting from the center back
(where each round begins and ends
with slip stitch), and working clockwise,
place a stitch marker above the
following holes: 3, 13, 17, and 27.
After placing the stitch markers above the
In the picture below are Hole #17 and indicated holes, get ready to weave in
Hole #13 which are visible from the front. the strap!

17
When the front of the backpack is
facing you, insert each end of the strap
through the 13th and 17th hole. Weave
each end through every second hole.
Each end will permanently exit the
backpack (so ends are facing
outwards) at the 3rd and 27th hole.

For extra security, flip the backpack inside

out. Use a yarn needle and weave both
strap ends through the bottom rectangles
so they meet at the center. Tie multiple
knots and weave in ends.

This is what the top of the backpack

looks like after the strap has been woven
in. The sides fold beautifully, and I love
how the straps form the closure of this
backpack design.

Now it is time to make the decorative

tassel (optional). Cut 25 strands of yarn
approximately 16" in length (can wrap
around hardcover book to get consistent
Using the long initial ends, whip stitch
lengths). Fold strands in half. Cut 20"
each end of the strap to the bottom left
strand of yarn and tie top of tassel to form
and right corners of the backpack
a loop extending from the top (so tassel
securely. Attach them at the point where
can be attached to backpack later on)
the bottom rectangles were whip
and hide ends with rest of strands.
stitched to the bottom edging.

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Wrap various colors of embroidery floss Wrap packing tape around the bottom of
along the strands to add pops of color, the tassel and cut along edge of tape to
leaving 0.75" at top. We wrapped 3 trim edges. Loop tassel through strap.
different colors approximately 0.4"/1 cm
in length each. I have a link to a helpful
video tutorial on my blog to see how to
wrap embroidery floss around the tassel
and how to hide the ends neatly.

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