Master Decorated Cookies

with Royal Icing H O L I D AY B A K I N G I S S U E

FROM SCRATCH ®

VANILLA-RED VELVET

59
Recipes for Festive Holiday Baking LAYER CAKE
page 74
[Gingerbread Dutch Baby Pancake,
Eggnog Rolls + More]

Christmas
Quick Breads
with Hallmark
Home &
Family’s Maria
Provenzano

Baking with
Pearl Sugar

Make-Ahead
Brunch Ideas

#thebakefeed
NOV/DEC 2020 VOLUME

$12.99US $15.99CAN
6, ISSUE 6

12
Holiday Cakes
Celebrate with Festive
7 25274 01695 2
Twists on 1-2-3-4 Cake
DISPLAY UNTIL JANUARY 18, 2021
FROM SCRATCH
®
table of contents

17 Hot from the Oven: Must-Haves for Holiday

Baking and Beyond 29 Baker Profile: Life from Scratch
We talk shop with DIY expert and baking
Preview the season’s hottest new cookbooks and enthusiast Maria Provenzano about the art of
tools, from the latest guide to brownie-baking to building and baking a life from scratch
your new cast iron obsession

35 THE ESSENTIAL . . . ROYAL ICED COOKIES

19 Baker Spotlight: The Queen Bee
We talked with Instagram maven Laura Cortés
Learn to give cookies the royal decorating
treatment as we guide you through flooding
of Chubbee Kitchen, a blogger who takes on icing to piping snow-capped Christmas trees,
recipes one gorgeous cookbook at a time marbled ornaments, and wintry snowflakes

23 From the Pantry: Eggs

From selecting the right eggs to the science 47 PRETTY IN PEARL
behind meringues and custards, we crack the Belgian and Swedish pearl sugar put a
case on one of the most ubiquitous ingredients spectacular spin on cinnamon rolls, sweeten up
sugar bread, and add crazy crunch to a coffee
cake-fruitcake hybrid
27 Retro Redo: Eggnog Nanaimo Bars
A Bake from Scratch editor gets in touch with
her Canadian roots, and we give the Nanaimo 55 CUE THE CUSTARD
Unlock the power of custard with our recipes
bar a merry eggnog-infused makeover
for peppermint custard-stuffed cookies, an
aromatic Basque cheesecake, kuchen, and more
3 bake from scratch
65 1-2-3-4 HOLIDAY CAKES 107 Origin of a Classic: Kugelhopf
A brioche-like cake bejeweled with amaretto-
We’re transforming the versatile 1-2-3-4 cake soaked fruit and crowned with almonds, this
into all of your favorite holiday flavors, from red more than 500-year-old recipe was beloved by
velvet to hot cocoa, to create multilayered magic royalty and claimed by several countries, and it’s
no secret why
76 VERY MERRY TARTS
Whether you’re a fruit fanatic or a chocoholic,
we have a tart recipe that will bring yuletide joy
111 Weeknight Baking: Gingerbread Dutch Baby
Pancake
to your holiday table From blender straight to skillet, whip up the
most festively fluffy gingerbread pancake with
87 ’TWAS THE NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS
Maximize quality time with your loved ones this
minimal effort

season with three make-ahead recipes: Pull-Apart

Milk Bread Wreath, Eggnog Sweet Rolls, and
113 First Bake: Poignant Pound Cake
Chef and TV star Carla Hall remembers her
White Chocolate-Peppermint Scones initiation into the baking world through her
grandmother’s luscious pound cake

97 SIGNED, SEALED, DELIVERED

Bake, wrap, and pack four cookies and bars so
you can ship the ultimate care package to loved
ones near and dear to your heart but far away
this holiday season
november | december 2020 4
 ADVERTISING

LE GIBASSIER
A French bread from Provence, the gibassier is flavored with anise, candied orange peel, and orange blossom water. Cut and
shaped to resemble a leaf, our Le Gibassier loaves rise in record time thanks to Platinum® Yeast from Red Star®.

Makes 8 small loaves thermometer registers 120°F (49°C) to draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled
130°F (54°C). Add milk mixture to flour in size, 1½ to 2½ hours.
2⅓ to 2⅔ cups (296 to 338 grams) bread mixture; beat at low speed just until combined 5. Punch down dough; let stand for 5 minutes.
flour, divided and yeast dissolves, stopping to scrape sides Turn out dough onto a clean surface, and
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar, of bowl. Add eggs and orange blossom water; divide into 8 portions (about 92 grams each);
divided beat at medium-low speed just until combined, shape into balls, pinching seams closed as
2 (0.25-ounce) packages (14 grams) stopping to scrape sides of bowl. With mixer needed. Cover with plastic wrap, and let
Platinum Yeast on low speed, gradually add 1⅓ cups stand for 25 minutes.
2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt (169 grams) flour, beating just until combined. 6. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line
¾ teaspoon (1.5 grams) plus ⅛ teaspoon 3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
ground cardamom, divided Beat at medium-low speed until dough is 7. Roll each dough ball into a 3½-inch-long
½ teaspoon ground ginger, divided smooth, elastic, and pulls away from sides log; flatten and shape into about 4½x3-inch
¼ cup (60 grams) whole milk of bowl, 7 to 10 minutes, stopping to scrape ovals (about ¼ inch thick). Place long side of
3 tablespoons (42 grams) olive oil sides of bowl; add up to remaining ⅓ cup dough ovals parallel to counter edge; using
2 large eggs (100 grams), room (42 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon (8 grams) at a sharp kitchen shears or scissors, cut 3 slits
temperature time, if dough is too sticky. crosswise and equally spaced within each oval,
2½ teaspoons (12.5 grams) orange 4. With mixer on low speed, add ¼ cup leaving about ½ to ¾ inch of dough intact on
blossom water (57 grams) butter, 1 tablespoon (14 grams) each side. Along one long side of each oval,
¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, at a time, beating until combined after each cut ½- to ¾-inch-long slits, evenly spaced, to
softened and divided addition (6 to 8 minutes total), stopping the side of each original center slit. Stretch
½ cup (72 grams) finely chopped candied to scrape sides of bowl and dough hook. dough gently just to open cuts; place on
orange Increase mixer speed to medium-low, and prepared pans. Cover and let rise in a warm,
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) anise seeds beat until a smooth, elastic dough forms, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until dough is
6 to 7 minutes, stopping to scrape dough puffed and holds an indentation when pressed
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the hook. (Dough should pass the windowpane with a finger, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
paddle attachment, beat 1 cup (127 grams) test. [See Note.]) Beat in candied orange 8. Bake, one batch a time, until golden brown
flour, ⅓ cup (67 grams) sugar, yeast, salt, and anise seeds until combined. Turn out and an instant-read thermometer inserted
¾ teaspoon (1.5 grams) cardamom, and dough onto a clean surface; knead 6 to in center registers 190°F (88°C), 6 to
¼ teaspoon ginger at low speed until 10 times to help evenly disperse candied 10 minutes. Let cool for 3 to 5 minutes.
combined. orange and anise seeds. Transfer dough to a 9. Meanwhile, in a small microwave-safe bowl,
2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk and medium bowl. Cover and let rise in a warm, heat remaining ½ cup (113 grams) butter on
oil over medium heat until an instant-read high in 10-second intervals until melted.
10. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, stir
together remaining ⅔ cup (133 grams) sugar,
remaining ¼ teaspoon ginger, and remaining
⅛ teaspoon cardamom.
11. Brush melted butter all over warm bread;
immediately coat with sugar mixture. Serve
warm, or let cool to room temperature on
wire racks.

Note: To use the windowpane test to check

dough for proper gluten development, lightly
flour hands and pinch off (don’t tear) a small
piece of dough. Slowly pull the dough out from
the center. If the dough is ready, you will be able
to stretch it until it’s thin and translucent like
a windowpane. If the dough tears, it’s not quite
ready. Beat for 1 minute,
and test again.
 FROM SCRATCH
november | december 2020 Volume 6, Issue 6

EDITORIAL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Brian Hart Hoffman

MANAGING EDITOR Kyle Grace Mills GROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR

ASSISTANT EDITOR Sandi Shriver Deanna Rippy Gardner
DIGITAL EDITOR Beth Branch
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Alex Kolar SENIOR ST YLIST Sidney Bragiel
SENIOR COPY EDITOR Rhonda Lee Lother ST YLISTS
COPY EDITOR Meg Lundberg Courtni Bodiford, Caroline Blum, Lucy Finney,
Mary Beth Jones, Lily Simpson,
Melissa Sturdivant Smith, Dorothy Walton
CREATIVE DIRECTOR/PHOTOGRAPHY
Mac Jamieson
TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR Irene Yeh
SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER
BAKING AND PASTRY EDITOR Tricia Manzanero
John O’Hagan
FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Laura Crandall, J.R. Jacobson, Kathleen Kanen,
Jim Bathie, William Dickey, Megan Lankford, Vanessa Rocchio,
Stephanie Welbourne Steele Taylor Franklin Wann
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER
CONTRIBUTING FOOD ST YLIST/RECIPE DEVELOPER
Bree McCool Maria Provenzano
SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST
Delisa McDaniel
DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Clark Densmore

D I G I TA L M E D I A A D M I N I S T R AT I V E
MARKETING DIRECTOR Kristy Harrison HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR
MARKETING COORDINATOR Hannah Crowe Judy Brown Lazenby
SENIOR ONLINE EDITOR Courtney duQuesnay IT DIRECTOR Matthew Scott Holt
DIGITAL DESIGNER Stephanie Lambert DEALER PROGRAM MANAGER Janice Ritter
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT/EDITORIAL Alex Kolar

I N T E G R AT E D M A R K E T I N G S O LU T I O N S

V I C E P R E S I D E N T, A DV E R T I S I N G MARKETING MANAGER Gretchen Norris

Katie Guasco [LA, MS, AR, TX] ADVERTISING PRODUCTION REPRESENTATIVE
ACCOUNT DIRECTORS Kimberly Lewis
Hagan Media/Katie Hagan [AL, FL, TN]
Kathy Gross [FL, GA, KY, MD, NC, SC, VA, DC, WV] For assistance with advertising, please call (888) 411-8995.
ACCOUNT MANAGERS Mary-Evelyn Dalton
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DIRECT RESPONSE Hagan Media/Katie Hagan
DIGITAL AND SOCIAL BRAND PARTNERSHIPS
Kevin Masse

CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD/CEO Phyllis Hoffman DePiano

PRESIDENT/COO Eric W. Hoffman PRESIDENT/CCO Brian Hart Hoffman

EVP/CFO Mary P. Cummings VP/CULINARY & CUSTOM CONTENT

EVP/OPERATIONS & MANUFACTURING Brooke Michael Bell
Greg Baugh VP/SHELTER CONTENT Cindy Smith Cooper
VP/DIGITAL MEDIA Jon Adamson VP/ADVERTISING Katie Guasco

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 EXPERTLY TESTED
RECIPES FEATURING
PREMIUM
INGREDIENTS

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 from the editor

IF YOU’RE LIKE ME, THE HOLIDAY SEASON Vanilla-Red Velvet Layer Cake cover star (page 74). If you want
to flex your decorating skills, learn to ice your cookies with expert
IS PRIME TIME FOR BAKING. The celebratory period finesse in The Essential . . . Royal Iced Cookies (page 35.) Or try
seems ideal for icing cookies, frosting cakes, and rolling out dough. out one of our Very Merry Tarts (page 76). The Poached Pear
Maybe it’s the holiday state of mind or maybe it’s just the cold Buttermilk Tart is a fruity revamp on the buttermilk chess pie I
snap, but eitherway, I can’t wait to preheat my oven. enjoy every Christmas. We’re also giving you plenty of recipes that
use one of my ingredient obsessions—pearl sugar (page 47). If you
Around this time last year, I was celebrating with an annual always find yourself trapped in the kitchen Christmas Day—I’ve
tradition: eggnog cocktails at Highlands Bar & Grill, one of my certainly been there—turn to ’Twas the Night before Christmas
favorite restaurants in Birmingham, Alabama. There, I encountered (page 87), our make-ahead guide to sweet and savory options for
one of their new pastry creations, a gâteau Basque pound cake. Christmas brunch. And in recognition of the current COVID-19
To my surprise, when I cut into it, no custard center oozed out. times we live and bake in, we have our Signed, Sealed, Delivered
Instead, the cake had been made with the custard acting as its feature (page 97), dedicated to helping you make and package bars
liquid base, meaning the batter baked into a solid, tender-crumbed and cookies you can easily mail to loved ones you may be separated
cake that tasted of pure custard decadence. I was inspired by this from this holiday season.
brilliant idea to bring it to The Bundt Collection, a Bake from Scratch
cookbook focused on the iconic Bundt cake. The Basque Bundt We’re also featuring some bakers I know and love, from Carla Hall to
Cake is the beautiful amalgamation of two ideas into one delicious Maria Provenzano. It’s a great gathering of inspiration, bakers, and
cake. I’m sharing it here now—consider it my gift to all my beloved recipes to help you find any excuse to get busy with dough and batter.
bakers—because it’s not something I can keep secret during this
season of giving. Happy baking,

This issue further embraces this pumped-up baking spirit,

highlighting the recipes we love to bake during the time we love Brian Hart Hoffman
to bake most. We tackle 1-2-3-4 cakes, giving them festive twists Editor-in-Chief
that welcome yuletide joy, including our scarlet and cream

Take advantage of our new digital editions of Bake from Scratch. By doing so, you’ll receive access to your new issues
SUBSCRIBE on any of your mobile devices while your print issues are being delivered. You can also gain access to our archive library
TO OUR dating back to 2015. Each digital issue has an interactive table of contents as well as a keyword search tool. This includes
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You can add access to the digital archive feature for only $5 more. It’s the best of all worlds. Go to bakefromscratch.
ARCHIVE! com/subscribe to subsribe or head to hoffmanmedia.com/ecare to add digital access to your current subscription!

november | december 2020 10

BASQUE BUNDT CAKE medium, and beat until fluffy, 3 to BASQUE CUSTARD
Makes 1 (10-cup) Bundt cake 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of Makes about 2 cups
bowl. Add eggs, one at time, beating well
The gâteau Basque, a classic French cake after each addition. 2 cups (480 grams) whole milk
filled with luxurious pastry cream, is one of 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds
my favorites. When I saw a loaf cake take on salt, and cream of tartar. With mixer on scraped and reserved
the menu at one of my favorite restaurants, low speed, gradually add flour mixture to ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar
Highlands Bar & Grill in Birmingham, butter mixture alternately with Basque ⅓ cup (40 grams) cornstarch
Alabama, I was thrilled. When I tasted the Custard, beginning and ending with flour 4 large egg yolks (74 grams)
cake, I found that rather than having a pastry mixture, beating just until combined after 1 large egg (50 grams)
cream filling, it had the cream mixed right each addition and stopping to scrape sides 2 tablespoons (16 grams) all-purpose flour
into the batter, and I was inspired to take the of bowl. ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
innovation one step further with a beautiful 4. Spray a 10-cup Bundt pan with baking
Bundt cake. We made a Basque Custard that spray with flour. Spoon and spread batter 1. Place a fine-mesh sieve over a medium bowl.
we then stirred into a plain pound cake base, evenly into prepared pan. Tap pan on a 2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk and
creating a cake that tastes of pastry cream kitchen towel-lined counter a few times to reserved vanilla bean seeds over medium
but has the texture of a tender pound cake. settle batter and release any air bubbles. heat until steaming. (Do not boil.)
5. Bake until golden brown and a wooden 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together sugar,
1½ cups (340 grams) unsalted butter, pick inserted near center comes out cornstarch, egg yolks, egg, flour, and salt.
softened clean, 1 hour to 1 hour and 10 minutes, Gradually whisk hot milk mixture into sugar
2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar loosely covering with foil to prevent excess mixture. Return mixture to saucepan, and
5 large eggs (250 grams), room browning, if necessary. Let cool in pan cook, whisking constantly, until bubbly and
temperature for 10 minutes. Invert cake onto a wire very thick, 2 to 6 minutes. Strain through
3 cups (375 grams) all-purpose flour rack. Serve warm or at room temperature. prepared sieve. Cover with a piece of
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt Dust with confectioners’ sugar just before plastic wrap, pressing wrap directly onto
½ teaspoon (1 gram) cream of tartar serving. surface of custard to prevent a skin from
1⅔ cups (360 grams) Basque Custard forming. Use warm.
(recipe follows)
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting PRO TIP
If your oven runs hot and browns your
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). cakes easily, try baking your cake at
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted 325°F (170°C) for the same bake time
with the paddle attachment, beat butter (1 hour to 1 hour and 10 minutes).
and granulated sugar at low speed just It’ll yield the same results but with a
until combined; increase mixer speed to lighter crust.
 NSPEECIA
WL ISSUE
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Bakers, it’s time to pull out the cookie cutters and piping tips—our 2020 Holiday Cookies special issue is here!
This issue includes a merry and bright star-studded lineup of bakers, in addition to our own holiday favorite classics, like
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 Master Decorated Cookies
H O L I D AY B A K I N G I S S U E

RECIPE INDEX
with Royal Icing

on the cover
Vanilla-Red Velvet
FROM SCRATCH ®

Layer Cake VANILLA-RED VELVET

59
Recipes for Festive Holiday Baking LAYER CAKE
page 74
page 74 [Gingerbread Dutch Baby Pancake,
Eggnog Rolls + More]
BARS AND COOKIES CAKES Christmas
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
Chocolate-Dulce de Leche Bars 103 Almond-Cranberry Cake 70 STEPHANIE
Quick Breads
with Hallmark
Home &
Chocolate-Peanut Butter-Pistachio Basque Bundt Cake 11 WELBOURNE STEELE Family’s Maria
Provenzano

Biscotti 105 Chocolate Coffee Mayo Cake 8 RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY

LAURA CRANDALL
Baking with
Pearl Sugar
Cream Cheese-Stuffed Vanilla- Gluten-Free Hummingbird Cake 85 FOOD STYLING BY Make-Ahead
Brunch Ideas
Peppermint Cookies 15 Hot Chocolate Marshmallow MEGAN LANKFORD
Christmas Sugar Cookies 40 Cake 68
STYLING BY
MELISSA
#thebakefeed
Holiday Cakes
Celebrate with Festive
Twists on 1-2-3-4 Cake
Eggnog Nanaimo Bars 28 Kugelhopf 110 STURDIVANT SMITH
Gingerbread Custard Bars 62 Orange-Anise Basque Cheesecake 61
Ornament Cookies 42 Pearl Sugar Streusel Coffee-
Pearl Sugar Ginger Cookies 104 Fruitcake 52 Royal Icing 40
Peppermint Custard-Stuffed Chocolate Pecan Pie Cake 72 Simple Syrup 72
Cookies 61 Vanilla-Red Velvet Layer Cake 74 Sugared Cranberries 70
Raspberry Swirl Cheesecake Bars 21 Vanilla Glaze 96
Slice-and-Bake Holiday Confetti FROSTINGS, FILLINGS, Vanilla Simple Syrup 74
Cookie 103 GARNISHES, AND GLAZES
Snowflake Cookies 46 Almond Buttercream 70 MISCELLANEOUS
Winter Tree Cookies 44 Basque Custard 11 Gingerbread Dutch Baby Pancake 112
Brown Sugar Buttercream 72 Milk Roux 94
BREADS Chocolate Meringue Buttercream 68
Cucidati Quick Bread 33 Cream Cheese Frosting 74, 85 PASTRIES, PIES, AND TARTS
Eggnog Sweet Rolls 95 Creamy Chocolate Frosting 8 Ginger Shortcrust Pastry 82
Gingerbread Loaf with Dark Chocolate Eggnog Custard Filling 28 Pear and Cranberry Kuchen 63
and Spiced Crumble 33 Eggnog-Rum Glaze 95 Poached Pear Buttermilk Tart 82
Le Gibassier 5 Honey-Ginger Syrup 54 Sparkling Wine Chocolate Ganache
Pull-Apart Milk Bread Wreath 94 Italian Meringue 68 Tart 78
Suikerbrood 54 Pearl Sugar Streusel 52 Spiced Plum Linzer Torte 80
Swedish Cinnamon Buns 53 Pecan Pie Filling 72 Spiced Shortcrust Pastry 63
White Chocolate-Peppermint Peppermint Pastry Cream 62
Scones 96 Pineapple-Pecan Filling 85

resources
Baker Spotlight First Bake
Page 19 Page 113
Photos courtesy of Laura Cortés. Photography by Melissa Holm.

november | december 2020 14

 ADVERTISING

CREAM CHEESE-STUFFED
VANILLA-PEPPERMINT COOKIES
8IKSQVOIKZMIUKPMM[M[]ZXZQ[M\PM[MPWTQLIaKWWSQM[IZMNTI^WZML_Q\P0MQTITI8MXXMZUQV\>IVQTTI-`\ZIK\I
LaVIUQKJTMVLWNJW\PZMNZM[PQVOXMXXMZUQV\IVLKZMIUa^IVQTTI?MZW]VLMLW]\\PMNM[\Q^MNTI^WZJaZWTTQVOW]Z
KZMIUKPMM[M[\]NNMLKWWSQMLW]OPJITT[QVKZ][PML[WN\XMXXMZUQV\KIVLQM[KZMI\QVOI^MZaUMZZaKWWSQM

Makes about 14 cookies and remaining cream cheese mixture. Place

dough balls 1½ inches apart on prepared
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, pans, and gently flatten to ¾-inch thickness,
softened pressing together any cracks in edges, if
¾ cup (150 grams) plus 2 tablespoons necessary.
(24 grams) granulated sugar, divided 7. Bake, one batch a time, until edges are
1 large egg (50 grams), room set and bottoms are golden brown, 12 to
temperature 15 minutes. Carefully garnish warm cookies
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) Heilala with candies, if desired. Let cool on pans for
Peppermint Vanilla Extract 3 minutes. Remove from pans, and let cool
1⅔ cups (208 grams) all-purpose flour completely on wire racks.
1½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) baking powder
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt *Do not substitute hard peppermint candies.
4 ounces (113 grams) cream cheese,
softened Note: If crushed soft peppermint candies
½ cup (64 grams) crushed soft aren’t sticking well, lightly dampen hands with
peppermint candies* water as needed before rolling dough into balls
Garnish: crushed soft peppermint candies and coating in candies.

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with

the paddle attachment, beat butter and
¾ cup (150 grams) sugar at medium speed
until fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes, stopping to
scrape sides of bowl. Beat in egg and
peppermint vanilla extract until well
combined, stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour,
baking powder, and salt. Add flour mixture
to butter mixture all at once; beat at low
speed just until combined, stopping to
scrape sides of bowl.
3. In a small bowl, stir together cream
cheese and remaining 2 tablespoons
(24 grams) sugar until well combined.
Cover cream cheese mixture and dough
with plastic wrap; freeze for 25 minutes.
4. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line
2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment
paper.
5. In a small shallow bowl, place candies.
6. Using a 1-tablespoon spring-loaded scoop,
scoop dough into balls (about 18 grams
each); flatten into 2-inch disks. Place
1½ teaspoons (about 9 grams) cream cheese
mixture in center of 1 dough disk; cover
with a second disk, and crimp edges to seal.
Gently shape into a ball; roll in candies.
(See Note.) Repeat with remaining dough
hot from the oven

MUST-HAVES FOR HOLIDAY

BAKING AND BEYOND
LOOKING FOR A FEW TOOLS AND COOKBOOKS TO BOOST YOUR HOLIDAY BAKING SPIRIT? SPICE UP
YOUR LIFE WITH THIS SEASON’S PICKS, FROM SASSY SPRINKLES TO SPACE-SAVING COOKIE CUTTERS,
PLUS NEWLY RELEASED TOMES THAT TACKLE EVERYTHING FROM BROWNIES TO MILE-HIGH BAKING.

TRENDING TOMES
ATTACK OF THE
SNACK CAKE!
Who says cake is only for dessert? Yossi Arefi’s
latest cookbook, Snacking Cakes: Simple Treats for
Anytime Cravings (Clarkson Potter, 2020), indulges
readers by transforming cake into an anytime treat.
The no-fuss, one-bowl recipes in this collection are
delightfully simple to throw together, made with
ingredients bakers likely have in their pantries and
baked in basic pans. This cookbook is perfect for BETTER BAKING,
bakers who crave near-instant baking satisfaction.
BETTER
Available at amazon.com on October 27, 2020.
BROWNIES
Our friend Mike Johnson
(@mikebakesnyc) has released his
debut cookbook, Even Better Brownies:
THE CREATIVE BAKER’S 50 Standout Bar Recipes for Every
Occasion (Page Street Publishing,
DREAM COOKBOOK 2020). OK, Mike, you have our
attention. The cookbook walks readers
If Ruth Mar Tam wasn’t inspiring you enough with her through inspired recipes for decadent
gorgeous Instagram feed, we now have her cookbook to brownies and bars, complete with
drool over. The blogger behind Cook Til Delicious brings traditional iterations and inventive
us Baked to Order: 60 Sweet and Savory Recipes with flavor combinations. From Cookie
Variations for Every Craving (Page Street Publishing, Butter Fudge to Chocolate Peanut
2020), a cookbook filled with delectable recipes and Butter Pretzel Blondies, bakers will be
ways to modify them to fit your wants and needs. This able to whip up rich, tasty treats with a
tome is truly meant to satisfy every craving. flick of the whisk.
Available at amazon.com on November 17, 2020. Available at amazon.com on
December 1, 2020.

17 bake from scratch

TEST KITCHEN FINDS
HOLIDAY TIME = SPRINKLE TIME
Confectionery House Co. in Troy, New York, has its very own Santa’s workshop, where
whimsical sprinkles are blended by hand. Who could resist the Ugly Christmas Sweater
Sprinkle Mix (which includes adorable mini gingerbread figures and cute candy canes) or
the Two Sizes Too Small Sprinkle Mix—an ode to the grinch with heart at your holiday table.
Available at etsy.com, $6.99 for a 3-ounce bag

WARM SPICE AND EVERYTHING NICE

Our friends at Heilala Vanilla are likely enjoying the tropical winter warmth that
the vanilla-growing region has to offer, but for the rest of us, we’ll take all the heat
we can get. To help us out, Heilala has created the perfect baking kit, the Spiced
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extract, which receives a
boost from the aromatic
flavors of cinnamon, ginger,
and cloves. Use this spiced
vanilla wherever you need a
pop of warm holiday flavor.
Available at heilalavanilla.com,
$44.97

BAKEWARE THAT’S CAST TO LAST CUT COOKIES, NOT CORNERS

Seasoned for the season, Lodge Cast Iron is debuting a brand-new line of bakeware This five-piece nesting cookie cutter set from
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have been obsessing over the jet-black Seasoned Cast Iron Baker’s Skillet. At solution for one of our favorite cookie tools.
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more lifting heavy skillets in and out of with zero clutter. These will be the handiest
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Available at lodgecastiron.com, $22.95 Available at thecookiecuttershop.com, $8.95

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november | december 2020 18

 BAKER SPOTLIGHT: THE QUEEN BEE
LAURA CORTÉS IS THE ACCOMPLISHED HOME BAKER BEHIND
CHUBBEE KITCHEN, A BLOG DEDICATED TO A VERY DELIBERATE BAKING
CHALLENGE. LAURA BAKES THROUGH ONE COOKBOOK EVERY TWO
MONTHS, ATTEMPTING TO BAKE AS MANY RECIPES AS POSSIBLE FROM
EACH TOME. FROM OUR OWN BAKE FROM SCRATCH: VOLUME ONE TO
JOANNE CHANG’S PASTRY LOVE, LAURA HAS BAKED THROUGH ONE
SWEET LIBRARY. HERE, WE CHAT ALL THINGS HOME BAKING AND WHY
COOKBOOKS ARE ONE OF HER FAVORITE WAYS TO LEARN.

and I was certainly raised in a baking How do you feel that cookbooks
environment. Then, in 2014, I started compare to recipes found online?
working for a company that is very social, LC: When I crack open a new cookbook,
and I would bake things to bring into the I read it from cover to cover. There’s
office every day. It was so fun to have so much valuable information found in
a captive audience, and I was definitely forewords, prefaces, authors’ letters,
popular around the office for bringing in chapter openers, etc. A lot of people just
goodies! Over time, people encouraged go straight to the recipe, but I love to
me to start a side business, which is how learn the background of the author and
the blog was born. I stuck with it for a why they make certain decisions in the
while but realized I wasn’t interested in kitchen. To me, it’s like going to school
the business side of baking—it became and taking a class, learning from one
a chore to me. Baking should never be person for a whole semester.
a chore! So, I just refocused my efforts
back into baking for the moment and What has been your favorite cookbook
flexing my creative muscles. to bake from so far?
LC: The Artful Baker by Cenk Sönmezsoy
We’ve all been spending more time at is amazing. I have baked through close
home recently. Have you challenged to nine cookbooks since I started “One
yourself with any difficult or more- Book/Two Months,” and The Artful Baker
involved bakes during the pandemic? is hands down my favorite. I love the style
LC: I started my “One Book/Two of instruction and the attention to detail.
Months” challenge in 2019. During the I like how Sönmezsoy is an unapologetic
pandemic, I have been able to spend a home baker, and he writes for home
lot more time in the kitchen, so I’ve been bakers. He doesn’t assume you’re going
baking through my cookbooks more to have technical training and professional
thoroughly. I’ve also made an effort to equipment. It’s the perfect combination
How did you first get into baking and bake things that I wouldn’t typically have of approachable style and challenging
when did you decide that a blog was the tried. I just made a butter mochi cake for recipes, my ideal cookbook.
next step on your baking journey? the first time, something I never would
LC: My mom had a cake-decorating have bought in a bakery or restaurant.
business when I was a small child, so I It’s been so wonderful to be surprised by
remember her teaching me the basics, recipes.
Follow Laura:
chubbeekitchen.com / @chubbeekitchen •

19 bake from scratch

 ADVERTISING

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divided Let cool on a wire rack for 30 minutes. surface with a wooden pick.
1 tablespoon (8 grams) cornstarch 5. In the container of a blender, combine 7. Working quickly, drop small dollops of
2 (8-ounce) packages (454 grams) raspberries and ¼ cup (50 grams) sugar; cooled raspberry mixture on top of cream
cream cheese, room temperature and purée until smooth. Strain raspberry mixture cheese mixture; using a wooden pick, swirl
cubed through an extra-fine-mesh sieve into a as desired. Place pan on broiling pan; set on
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¾ cup (180 grams) sour cream, room and will continue to thicken slightly as it cools). top has a dulled finish, and center is almost
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1. Spray a 9-inch square baking pan with 6. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with 10. Using a knife, immediately loosen edges
cooking spray. Line pan with parchment the paddle attachment, beat cream cheese of cheesecake from parchment. Let cool
paper, letting excess extend ¼ to ½ inch at medium speed until smooth and creamy, in pan on a wire rack for 1½ to 2 hours.
over sides of pan. 1 to 2 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of Refrigerate in pan on a wire rack overnight,
2. In a large bowl, stir together gingersnap bowl. Add flour, vanilla, salt, and remaining loosely covering with foil only when
crumbs and melted butter until well ¾ cup (150 grams) sugar; beat at low speed completely cool to prevent condensation
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Simply Better Living
from the pantry

EGGS
FROM THE OUTER WHITE TO RICH YOLK CENTER, WE
DECONSTRUCT THE SCIENCE BEHIND THE EGG, THE
FOUNDATION TO MANY A CLASSIC BAKED GOOD

W
hat came first, the chicken or the egg? It’s a question
with no answer, the perfect example of a logic paradox.
An easier question: what came first, the baker or the
egg? For most of us, we became a baker once we laid our hands
on an egg. No other baking ingredient holds so much potential,
purpose, and possibility. One swift crack against the counter, and
you’ve opened a door to untold adventure—or folly, if you’re not
careful. We’re diving deep into this humble yet temperamental
ingredient, from the protein-packed egg white to the rich golden
yolk, to ensure that any time you reach for an egg, you understand
its power and pitfalls.

BY KYLE GRACE MILLS

Buying Eggs
First things first: size. Most recipes—and every recipe developed and tested for Bake
from Scratch—call for large eggs. Sans eggshell, the various sizes and their approximate
weights are medium egg (47 grams), large egg (50 grams), extra-large egg (56 grams),
and jumbo egg (60 grams). Thirteen grams separate the smallest and largest sizes—a
seemingly inconsequential number. However, if you’re making one of our 1-2-3-4 cakes
(see page 65), which call for four eggs, that discrepancy is quadrupled. What was only 13
grams’ difference is now 52 grams—the equivalent of an extra egg added to the batter.
If you’ve purchased anything other than large eggs, weigh them before adding them in
so you can correct the amount as needed.

As for the other egg distinctions, the color of the eggshell is determined by the chicken’s
genes, and the egg’s taste is decided by how the chicken it came from lives and what it
eats. So, don’t judge an egg by its shell but definitely consider labels like “free-range” or
“pasture-raised.” Free-range and pasture-raised chickens not only live better, but they
also eat better, producing delicious eggs with brilliantly golden or orange yolks. That
isn’t to say that factory-raised chicken eggs don’t have benefits—they’re less expensive
and much easier to find. Which you choose can depend on your recipe. If you’re making
something that depends on the rich egg yolk, like challah or custard, springing for free-
range eggs will help improve the overall taste and color of your baked good. If the recipe
requires very little egg and is dominated by other, stronger flavors, the type of egg
you use will make a minimal impact on flavor, texture, or color. Store your eggs in the
refrigerator, preferably on a stationary shelf (eggs stored in the door will have thinner
egg whites from all the jostling). How to determine egg freshness? Place your egg in a
bowl or cup of water. If the egg sinks, it’s fresh. If it floats, it’s a bad egg.

The Whole Egg

Working as a binder, emulsifier, leavening agent, tenderizer, and flavor booster all at
once, the egg is a type A multitasker. In bread doughs, like for our Eggnog Sweet Rolls
(page 95), it helps supply tender, tasty fat, qualifying the dough as “enriched.” When
adding eggs to bread dough, it’s best to have them at room temperature, as cold eggs will
affect the dough’s internal temperature, stunting proofing. In cakes, bars, and cookies,
like our Chocolate-Peanut Butter-Pistachio Biscotti (page105), the egg binds together
numerous ingredients into cohesive batters or doughs, gelling butter, sugar, and flour in
the oven into a structured, stable whole. In cakes and certain pastries, like pâte à choux,
the egg helps leaven the baked good through steam released from the egg white.

Then there’s the crafty baker’s secret weapon: egg wash. Egg wash is typically one egg
(or just an egg white or egg yolk) lightly beaten with 1 to 2 tablespoons water or milk to
create a thin mixture that can be brushed onto dough before baking. For pie-making
in particular, egg wash shows its amazing versatility at solving a number of problems.
Brush your parbaked piecrust with an egg wash and then bake it until the egg wash
has become dry and shiny, an extra 2 to 3 minutes, creating a protective seal between
your tender piecrust and creamy filling—no more soggy bottoms! Egg wash can also
work as a baker’s glue, sealing a double crust together. A final brush of egg wash onto
the unbaked upper crust bestows beautiful golden color and shine. We use egg wash in
similar ways throughout this issue, from securing pearl sugar to the tops of our Swedish
Cinnamon Buns (page 53) to imparting gorgeous color and shine to our Pull-Apart Milk
Bread Wreath (page 94).
 Egg White
The egg white is about 90% water. The remaining 10% is made
up mostly of proteins, which, when vigorously whipped with a
whisk, become agitated, unfolding and bonding to each other to
create a microscopic mesh network that separates air bubbles and
water. This egg white foam is the secret to all meringues, mousses,
soufflés, and chiffon cakes. What’s important to know about
whipping egg whites is how to keep from overwhipping. Overwhip
your egg whites and the sulfur-bonded proteins will begin to stick
together too well. They begin to clump, and your whipped mixture
will begin to collapse, because the air is no longer suspended by the
protective protein net. French bakers of old used copper mixing
bowls and whisks to combat gritty, collapsed whipped egg whites.
Copper distracts sulfur-bonded proteins from clustering together,
keeping your whipped egg whites from collapsing into gritty bits.
The modern baker has a cheaper way to combat sulfur bonds:
acid, in the form of citrus juice or cream of tartar. As little as ¼
teaspoon cream of tartar or lemon juice can slow down the sulfur
bonds enough to create a stable mixture. The Italian Meringue
used on our Hot Chocolate Marshmallow Cake (page 68) contains
cream of tartar for this reason.

The only other nemesis to whipped egg whites? Fat. Whether

it’s oil from your hands, an errant smear of butter in your mixing
bowl, or even a drop of egg yolk, fat slows down and stunts the
foaming process. These small traces of fat won’t ruin your foam,
but you’ll work longer and harder and the result won’t be nearly
as fluffy or stable. Before whipping egg whites, make sure your
mixing bowls and utensils are scrupulously clean and try to refrain Egg Yolk
from touching the whites with your hands when you separate the The rich heart of the egg, the yolk contains all of the fat and
eggs. As for aging egg whites—the theory that claims egg whites cholesterol of the egg and at least half of the protein. While they’re
that have “aged” at room temperature for a few hours or overnight rich and flavorful, yolks are mostly prized for their emulsifying
whip better than fresh, cold egg whites—it’s not as useful in the and thickening qualities. When heated with dairy and sugar, the
modern world of electric mixers. The cold egg whites heat up fairly egg proteins spread evenly throughout and congeal to create a
well during the electric mixing process and are less alkaline than smooth, creamy mixture. Basically, without eggs, custard is simply
aged egg whites, making for a more stable meringue. So, aging hot sugar milk. Custards can call for whole eggs or just egg yolks,
your egg whites won’t make or break your meringue if you’re using but the yolk is always essential. Custards made with whole eggs will
an electric mixer. be stiffer and glossier, like the firm custard base for our Orange-
Anise Basque Cheesecake (page 61). Custard using only egg yolks,
Besides being used for their whip-able quality, egg whites are like the Peppermint Pastry Cream in our Peppermint Custard-
an essential ingredient in royal icing. The egg white proteins Stuffed Chocolate Cookies (page 61), will be more tender and
help your royal icing transform into a hard, smooth surface creamier.
while it dries. For those wary of using raw egg whites in a
recipe, though, try meringue powder. This dried, powdered The same thing that makes custard work—heat—can also be its
version of egg whites mixed with sugar and gum is, by nature, undoing. Egg yolk that is incorporated into a hot mixture too
pasteurized (with any harmful bacteria killed during the heating quickly will curdle. For our pastry cream, we temper our eggs
and drying process). For The Essential . . . Royal Iced Cookies before cooking them on the stovetop. The method calls for
(page 35), we used a meringue powder-based royal icing that is scalding your dairy—heating it on the stovetop until steaming—
food-safe and functional. before adding it in a steady stream to your eggs yolks and sugar

25 bake from scratch

while whisking constantly. This keeps the eggs from being shocked Afterward, you can remove any curdled bits by pressing your
into premature coagulation on the hot stovetop. Another form custard through a fine-mesh sieve before refrigerating. We always
of insurance against curdling? Cornstarch or flour. Bringing solid suggest you cover custard with plastic wrap before refrigerating.
starch granules to the party, these starches absorb water and swell Why? Because, otherwise, the exposed custard surface will
up, slowing down the coagulation of the egg proteins and keeping form a leathery skin due to evaporation toughening the proteins
the custard stable even during boiling. Custards thickened with and starch. Once formed, it will be impossible to mix back into
cornstarch or flour will be much thicker than a pure egg custard, smoothness, with stubborn pieces of surface remaining whole.
and you must boil out the residual starchy flavor, 2 to 3 minutes.

BAKE WITH EGGS

In this issue, don’t miss:
Gingerbread Custard Bars, page 62
Pear and Cranberry Kuchen, page 63
Poached Pear Buttermilk Tart, page 82 •
retro redo

EGGNOG
NANAIMO BARS
A BAKE FROM SCRATCH EDITOR EXPLORES HER
CANADIAN ROOTS THE BEST WAY SHE KNOWS
HOW—THROUGH BAKING AND BOOZE

FOOD STYLING BY
MEGAN LANKFORD
STYLING BY
DOROTHY WALTON
W
hat I miss most about my maternal grandmother, Megan family and I were greeted with many wonderful things—memories and
Shackleton (née Lloyd-Jones), is her bubbly, full-throated photographs, hugs and barbecue—but one of the greatest treasures
laugh. When that magnetic sound was directed at you, it lay tucked away in the refrigerator. Cut into criminally small squares
made you feel like the most winsome and interesting person in the was my aunt Kathleen’s Nanaimo bars. A classic Canadian dessert,
room. Before she passed away, my grandma suffered a cruel battle Nanaimo bars pack a custard powder-based cream filling, velvet
with Alzheimer’s, descending into a painful fog of confusion. Many ganache topping, and a crust that sports the trifecta of nuts, coconut,
things about her changed and were lost, but some gems came to and chocolate. Before we left, I was gifted a collection of Aunt
the surface: precious memories of her childhood in Saskatchewan, Kathleen’s handwritten recipes, including the one for her Nanaimo
Canada, of her beloved brother, Bud, and their pet German shepherd, bars. Perhaps because I am a baker and a romantic, this family recipe
Princey. Grandma was a very proud Canadian, matched only by her felt like I was one step closer to something I had been afraid I’d lost.
pride in being a member of the Lloyd-Jones clan. Though I knew what
her Canadian and family heritage meant to her, there was much I As the Bake from Scratch team worked to reinvent this family recipe,
couldn’t understand or connect to—and when she was gone, it felt like I tried to find a way to bring all the strings of my Canadian roots
the chasm between my world and hers got infinitely harder to breach. together. I don’t know if my grandmother would have snacked on
Nanaimo bars in her day—she was a woman who famously spent her
Two years ago, I finally made a pilgrimage to Calgary, Canada, to calories on cocktails, not dessert—but I like to think the eggnog- and
meet with my great-aunt Kathleen and my second cousins Brenda bourbon-infused version would tempt her and that my meandering
and Megan, the wife and children of my late great-uncle Bud. My story would elicit one of those warm, full-throated laughs.

—Kyle Grace Mills, Managing Editor

THE REDO
EGGNOG NANAIMO BARS ½ cup (57 grams) finely chopped toasted several times to smooth chocolate mixture
Makes 24 bars walnuts and release any air bubbles. Refrigerate for
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract at least 1 hour or up to overnight.
The classic Canadian dessert gets a bold, Eggnog Custard Filling (recipe follows) 5. Using excess parchment as handles,
boozy revamp thanks to a touch of eggnog and 6 ounces (170 grams) 64% cacao remove from pan; using a warm, dry,
bourbon. The nutmeg in the eggnog helps cut semisweet chocolate baking bars, serrated knife, cut into bars. Serve at room
through the custard and chocolate richness finely chopped temperature.
with aromatic spice, while crunchy walnuts and 2 tablespoons (28 grams) vegetable oil
coconut impart extra chewiness. *We used Walkers Pure Butter Shortbread
1. Spray a 9-inch square baking pan with Cookies.
⅔ cup (150 grams) unsalted butter cooking spray. Line pan with parchment
½ cup (43 grams) unsweetened cocoa paper, letting excess extend over sides of pan. EGGNOG CUSTARD FILLING
powder 2. In the top of a double boiler, combine Makes about 2 cups
⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons (91 grams) butter, cocoa, sugar, and salt. Cook over
granulated sugar simmering water, stirring frequently, ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, softened
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt until butter is melted. Whisk in egg 2½ tablespoons (24 grams) custard powder*
1 large egg (50 grams) and egg yolk until well combined; cook, 1 tablespoon (15 grams) bourbon
1 large egg yolk (19 grams) stirring occasionally, until thickened and 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
2⅓ cups (295 grams) shortbread cookie an instant-read thermometer registers ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground nutmeg
crumbs* 160°F (71°C), about 10 minutes. Remove 3 cups (360 grams) confectioners’ sugar
1¼ cups (105 grams) sweetened flaked from heat; stir in cookie crumbs, coconut, 3½ tablespoons (52.5 grams) prepared eggnog
coconut walnuts, and vanilla. Press mixture into
bottom of prepared pan; let cool in pan on 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
a wire rack for 30 minutes. the paddle attachment, beat butter and
3. Using a small offset spatula, spread custard powder at medium-low speed
Eggnog Custard Filling onto prepared crust until creamy, 2 to 3 minutes, stopping
in a smooth, even layer. Refrigerate for to scrape sides of bowl. Beat in bourbon,
30 minutes. vanilla, and nutmeg. With mixer on low
4. In the clean top of a double boiler, speed, gradually add confectioners’ sugar
combine chocolate and oil. Cook over alternately with eggnog, beating until well
simmering water, stirring frequently, until combined and stopping to scrape sides of
chocolate is melted and mixture is smooth. bowl. Increase mixer speed to medium, and
Working quickly, pour chocolate mixture beat for 1 minute. Use immediately.
over chilled filling. Using a small offset
spatula and tilting pan as needed, spread *We used Bird’s Custard Powder, available at
chocolate mixture into an even layer; select grocery stores and amazon.com. •
tap pan on a kitchen towel-lined counter
november | december 2020 28
baker pro²le

29 bake from scratch

 LIFE FROM
SCRATCH
MARIA PROVENZANO OF FROM SCRATCH WITH MARIA IS A WOMAN AFTER
BAKE FROM SCRATCH’S HEART, TEACHING LEGIONS OF CREATIVES HOW
TO MAKE—AND BAKE—THE MOST OUT OF LIFE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BREE MCCOOL /
@breemccoolphoto

F
or many, “hands-on” is just an expression. For
Maria Provenzano, it’s a way of life. Maria is the
ever-capable mind behind From Scratch with
Maria, a blog devoted to crafting, and one of the resident
DIY experts on The Hallmark Channel’s Home & Family.
Whether you’ve ever desired to make a chocolate cake that
resembles a roaring bonfire or your own snowflake table
setting, Maria has been showing you how to do it all since
2013. But this devotion to the art of creativity began way
before the online realm of Pinterest, Instagram, or blogs
took off.

In fact, Maria’s claim to the DIY throne is a veritable

birthright. Hailing from the Great Lakes region of Michigan,
Maria learned early that your best tools are your own two
hands and a bit of ingenuity. “I grew up not knowing people
bought jelly from the grocery store—that was something
you made,” she says. Her paternal grandfather, Frank, ran
Provenzano’s, an Italian specialty food store in Saginaw,
Michigan, with his parents and brothers for more than
50 years. The store was a culinary lynchpin of the
community, serving up from-scratch delicacies you could
only find in Saginaw. Of particular fame were the jars of

november | december 2020 30

 the family’s pasta sauce and their fresh, homemade doughnuts. Maria’s Maria says. A running guest spot eventually turned into a full-time feature,
mother, an accomplished baker with German and Irish roots, took Maria’s as Maria became “a family member” and one of the show’s DIY experts.
education the rest of the way. “Whether it was knitting our Christmas It’s the ideal platform for Maria to show viewers how to make anything
stockings, sewing our Halloween costumes, or teaching me how to bake a from a mistletoe centerpiece to hand-painted tea towels. “No show
cake, my mom did it all. She always had me up on the counter baking with accomplishes what we do in two hours, five days a week. It’s the full lifestyle
her,” she says. package. Across the board, when you think of Hallmark as a brand, the goal
is to connect people and bring joy into life. Home & Family has those very
For Maria, turning this passion for self-made magic into a career came
same values. People come to the show to be happy, and they leave happy.”
when she began her own family. Pregnant with her first child in 2013, she
kept coming back to one question: “I asked myself, ‘What would you love to At front and center of Maria’s expertise is her perfected blend of DIY
do even if you never got paid?’” Her blog, From Scratch with Maria, was the craftmanship and baking prowess. “Baking is the perfect blank canvas. Just
unequivocal answer. The site coincided with the popularization of Pinterest look at the egg, and how many things you can make with an egg both in
and Instagram, two platforms celebrating everyday inspiration on a new terms of decoration and flavor. I take this blank canvas and transform it with
scale. From there, it snowballed into her next big break: Home & Family. my DIY innovation. This turns into something like candy corn meringues or
Sand Castle Cake.” Maria has a way of translating these complicated ideas
A fan of the Hallmark Channel’s signature lifestyle show, Maria was ecstatic
into the most approachable tutorials, inviting everyone to reap the rewards
when a friend told her she would be on the show. “I assumed she was talking
of a creative endeavor.
about me being in the audience—when in fact I got signed up for a segment,”

31 bake from scratch

As for bringing the next generation into the baking fold, Maria knows it as a kid when you made something and how excited you were to show
starts with the adults, not the kids. “My mom taught me that the kitchen someone what you created. When we grow up, we get disconnected from
was a sacred place. We’d spend hours in there just making Christmas that self-expression. There’s something so satisfying about lighting up
cookies, which was such an important bonding experience. Purely selfishly, with that feeling again as an adult,” she muses. Even with Maria’s step-
I wanted the same thing for my kids. You get to help your kids unlock and by-step tutorials and in-depth recipes, anything a maker creates using her
nurture their creativity and bake. What can be better than that?” she says teachings will be something singularly unique. “That’s what’s so incredible
with a laugh. Her main secret to making the adventure in the kitchen fun? about the ‘from scratch’ philosophy. Nobody else in the world has what you
Make a mess. Maria’s recent IGTV series, called Making Messes Monday, is just made—it’s an original,” Maria says.
all about bringing her kids, Grant and JJ, into the kitchen to teach them how
Come Christmas morning, Maria will be in her kitchen with Grant and JJ,
to make everything from lemonade to buttercream-frosted sugar cookies.
There’s flour on Maria’s jacket, frosting on her son’s chin, and crumbs making fresh doughnuts—a tradition she introduced to her own family, the
way her mom introduced her to Christmas cookie-baking all those years
aplenty—but everyone is having the time of their lives. “My mom and I used
before. These customs will be more than cherished memories—they’ll
to put flour on our faces, joking that if we had that, people would think we
were working really hard. In reality, no one remembers if your kitchen was become her boys’ legacies. “I had a friend once tell me that my sons’ future
a mess. They just remember the experience and whether the cookies tasted spouses will feel like they could never live up to my cooking and baking. I
laughed and said, ‘They don’t have to worry about a thing. My sons will be
good,” Maria shares. The end goal completely eclipses the cleanup.
cooking for them.’”
All of Maria’s work looks to bring the empowering creativity humans have
as children back into adulthood. “You can remember the pride you felt

Cucidati Quick Bread

page 33
 2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
baking powder, orange zest, cinnamon, and ¾ cup (180 grams) sour cream, room
salt. temperature
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with 3 large eggs (150 grams), room
the paddle attachment, beat granulated temperature
sugar and eggs at low speed until light and 2 tablespoons (42 grams) unsulphured
fluffy and pale in color, 2 to 3 minutes. molasses
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together oil, 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract
milk, sour cream, orange juice, and vanilla. ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter,
With mixer on medium-low speed, add melted and cooled
oil mixture to sugar mixture, beating until 1½ cups (255 grams) chopped 63% cacao
smooth and combined. Reduce mixer dark chocolate*
speed to low, and gradually add flour
mixture, beating just until combined. (Do Topping:
not overmix.) Fold in figs, raisins, and pine ¾ cup (94 grams) unbleached
nuts. Divide batter between prepared pans. all-purpose flour
5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in ½ cup (47 grams) old-fashioned oats
CUCIDATI QUICK BREAD center comes out clean, about 40 minutes. ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
Makes 2 (8½x4½-inch) loaves Let cool in pans for 15 minutes. Remove ¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light
from pans, and let cool completely on a brown sugar
The classic Italian fig-and-walnut Christmas wire rack. ½ teaspoon (1 gram) pumpkin pie spice
cookies called cucidati are a staple in many 6. In another medium bowl, whisk together ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter,
Italian American families, and each family confectioners’ sugar and 2 tablespoons melted and cooled
has their own way of making them special. (30 grams) cream until smooth; add up to
Traditionally, the classic flavors of dried remaining 1 tablespoon (15 grams) cream, 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
fruit, nuts, and oranges are rolled inside of a 1 teaspoon (5 grams) at a time, until Generously spray 2 (8½x4½-inch) loaf
buttery, soft cookie dough and then dipped in desired consistency is reached. (See Note.) pans with cooking spray.
a simple frosting and topped with nonpareils Drizzle glaze onto cooled loaves. Garnish 2. For batter: In a large bowl, whisk
after they are baked. This recipe has all of with nonpareils, if desired. together flour, brown sugar, baking powder,
the flavors you are looking for in the cucidati pie spice, baking soda, and salt.
cookies but in the form of a loaf. Note: If the glaze becomes too runny, whisk 3. In a medium bowl, stir together sour
in a little more confectioners’ sugar. You want cream, eggs, molasses, and vanilla. Add
3 cups (375 grams) all-purpose flour it to pour easily, but it should be thick enough sour cream mixture and melted butter to
1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder to stick to the loaves. flour mixture, stirring just until combined.
2 teaspoons (2 grams) orange zest Fold in chocolate. Divide batter between
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon GINGERBREAD LOAF WITH prepared pans.
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt DARK CHOCOLATE AND 4. For topping: In another medium bowl,
1¼ cups (250 grams) granulated sugar SPICED CRUMBLE combine flour, oats, sugars, and pie spice.
3 large eggs (150 grams), room Makes 2 (8½x4½-inch) loaves Using a fork, stir in melted butter in a slow,
temperature steady stream. Crumble topping evenly
¾ cup (168 grams) olive oil I can’t help but love the classic, comforting, over each loaf.
¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk, room spicy, and sweet gingerbread flavor and 5. Bake until center is set and a wooden
temperature smell. You don’t just have to stop at cookies, pick inserted in center comes out clean,
¼ cup (60 grams) sour cream, room though! This Gingerbread Loaf with Dark 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool in pans for
temperature Chocolate and Spiced Crumble is a must 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from pans, and
¼ cup (60 grams) fresh orange juice this holiday season. I took all the flavors in a let cool completely on a wire rack.
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract gingerbread cookie and not only turned it into
¾ cup (96 grams) dried figs, stemmed a quick bread but made it over-the-top with *Cinnamon can be substituted for pumpkin
and chopped the addition of dark chocolate and topped it pie spice, and chocolate chips can be used in
¾ cup (96 grams) raisins with a spiced crumble for some added texture. place of chopped chocolate.
¼ cup (36 grams) toasted pine nuts
2 cups (240 grams) confectioners’ sugar Batter:
2 to 3 tablespoons (30 to 45 grams) heavy 2 cups (250 grams) unbleached FOLLOW MARIA:
whipping cream all-purpose flour fromscratchwithmaria.com
Garnish: nonpareils 1 cup (220 grams) firmly packed light @fromscratchwithmaria
brown sugar
Tune in to Home & Family on the Hallmark
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). 1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder
Spray 2 (8½x4½-inch) loaf pans with 1 teaspoon (2 grams) pumpkin pie spice* Channel weekdays at 12 p.m. EST. •
cooking spray. ½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda
33 bake from scratch
Gingerbread Loaf with
Dark Chocolate and
Spiced Crumble
ROYAL ICED COOKIES
LEARN HOW TO MAKE DELICIOUSLY DECORATED COOKIES WITH OUR IN-DEPTH GUIDE
TO ROYAL ICING, THE EDIBLE ADORNMENT TO RULE THEM ALL
BY KYLE GRACE MILLS
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY LAURA CRANDALL
STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES

I n 1840, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert celebrated their nuptials with an exquisitely ornate wedding
cake that weighed 300 pounds and was 10 feet in circumference. Adorned with Greco-Roman
motifs of laurels and bouquets and crowned with sculptures of the couple and Britannia, the female
embodiment of Britain, its majestic decoration hid a rather humble English plum fruit cake. To the shock
of wedding guests and the public, what looked like intricately carved marble was in fact edible artifice:
royal icing, piped and molded into unprecedented glory.

The simple combination of sugar, water, and egg white, royal icing has been the pastry chef’s artistic
medium since the 1600s. Traditionally used to gild cakes, this malleable icing offered both creative
license for decoration and a protective coating to seal in the cake’s tender texture. In years since, the
icing has lent itself to the greatest of holiday traditions: Christmas cookies. We’re taking on this classic
art, diving deep into three royal icing decorations: piped, marbled, and brushed. From proper consistency
to steady piping, we’ll show you how to make brilliantly tinted and stunningly designed ornaments,
snowflakes, and winter trees. With our thoroughly modern guide to a historic technique, you’ll be able to
transform a plain cookie into a festive masterpiece.
 A Tale of Two Consistencies
Learn to navigate the two forms of royal icing, border and flood, with a little help from water and confectioners’ sugar

BORDER ICING FLOOD ICING

USES: Think of border icing as the stiff upper lip of royal icing. USES: Flood icing is the shapeshifter of royal icing, filling the
It provides two key functions for decorating your cookies. First, nooks and crannies of your detailed cookie with ease. Its loose
it acts as rigid border and dam for the looser flood icing used to structure helps fill a cookie faster and more smoothly than border
fill the majority of the cookie. Second, it offers 3D decoration, icing can. While it is most commonly used to create a matte
creating raised dots, lines, and patterns across your cookie without canvas, it can also be used to make an elaborate marbling design,
sinking and losing its shape. like for our Ornament Cookies.
CONSISTENCY: When a spoon or spatula is lifted out of the CONSISTENCY: Flood icing consistency should resemble the
icing, it should keep a soft peak. Too thick, and it will require velvet texture of runny honey, with icing that falls from the spoon in
too much pressure to pipe and won’t come out of the piping tip smooth ribbons that sit and then slowly settle back into uniformity.
smoothly. For this problem, add more water, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) It is also occasionally called 10-second icing because if you run your
at a time, until desired consistency is reached. If it’s too thin, your whisk through the icing, it should settle back down after 10 seconds.
borders and decoration won’t keep their shape when piped. Add If your icing is too thick, it won’t fill the cookie properly and will
confectioners’ sugar, 1 teaspoon (2 grams) at a time, until desired have a lot of air bubbles. Add water, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) at a time,
consistency is reached. Keep in mind that you may have to adjust until desired consistency is reached. Too thin, and your icing will
consistency after adding your gel food coloring. flow over the border icing and right over the edge of the cookie.
Add confectioners’ sugar, 1 teaspoon (2 grams) at a time, until
desired consistency is reached. Keep in mind that you may have to
adjust consistency after adding your gel food coloring.

37 bake from scratch

Make Your Cookie Canvas
Before we begin piping ornate decorations on top of our cookies, we need to create a smooth royal icing base, a mixture of
firm border icing and runny flood icing

THE BORDER: Place your border icing

in a pastry bag fitted with a Wilton No. 1
piping tip. Pick a starting point. Touch tip
to cookie surface and then start applying
pressure. Once icing begins to come out,
lift the tip off the cookie and continue to
apply even pressure. An icing string should
form between the cookie surface and your
piping tip. Keep applying even pressure,
and let the icing fall into place, guiding it
with your hand. Your tip should not touch
the cookie, only the icing thread. When
you reach the end, stop applying pressure,
and touch back down to break the thread.
Don’t rush the process, or it will break or
start to curl. Keep piping tips clean and
covered with a damp paper towel when not
being used.

THE FLOOD: Place your flood icing in a squeeze bottle with a small opening or ina pastry bag fitted with a Wilton No. 3 piping tip.
Squeeze out a puddle of icing, allowing it to pool from the center out. Don’t squeeze out too much at once, or you’ll overwhelm the
border. Use a wooden pick to gently shift the icing to fill in the gaps. Then use your pick to spread the icing in other directions. Once
filled, you can pop any air bubbles with the pick to create a smooth surface. Let dry for 2 to 3 hours. Keep in mind that humidity affects
the drying time, so if it’s a wet day, place your cookies near a fan to help speed up the process.

november | december 2020 38

Shop Talk: 2. Piping Tips: For our recipes, we used
Wilton No. 1, Wilton No. 2, and Wilton
Brush Set, available at Michaels and online.
5. Squeeze Bottles: For easy flooding
Essential Equipment No. 3 piping tips, available at specialty
decorating stores like Michaels or online at
of our cookies, we use Wilton Squeeze
Bottles, found at Michaels and online.
From cookie cutters to piping tips, amazon.com. 6. Cookie Cutters: We used a 3⅛-inch
here’s a list of some of the tools we 3. Pearl Sprinkles: The final touch on our snowflake cookie cutter and a 3½-inch
used to make our deliciously dynamic Snowflake Cookies, white pearl sprinkles Christmas tree cookie cutter, both
cookies can be purchased at specialty stores like available at annclarkcookiecutters.com. Our
Michaels or online at amazon.com. 3½-inch ornament cookie cutter can be
1. Pastry Bags: As you’ll be piping a number 4. Paintbrushes: A food-safe paintbrush found at kitchenconservatory.com.
of colored icings with specific piping tips, will help you create the snowy detail on our 7. Wooden Picks: We use wooden picks,
having a good number of pastry bags on Winter Tree Cookies. We used one from which are longer than your average
hand is a must. a Wilton Cake Decorating Tools, 5-Piece toothpick (about 4 inches long), to help
guide flood icing and pop unwanted air
bubbles. They’re also excellent for swirling
and marbling your icing on the fly.
8. Gel Food Coloring: We like to use gel
food coloring, in particular Wilton gel food
coloring, to tint royal icing because the gel
doesn't affect the consistency or bleed like
liquid food coloring would.
 PRO TIP
It’s the nature of this icing to harden and
dry out—so if you get busy with other
projects in the kitchen, be sure to cover
the top of your Royal Icing with a damp
paper towel to keep it fluid and fresh, for
up to 1 hour. For longer periods of time,
CHRISTMAS SUGAR COOKIES 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, store in an airtight container.
Makes about 36 cookies baking powder, and salt. With mixer on
low speed, gradually add flour mixture
Our base cookie dough yields tender, to butter mixture, beating until a dough than the traditional raw egg whites, for
buttery sugar cookies prime for our forms. Scrape sides of bowl, and knead food safety and ease. Whipped into a
Royal Icing decoration. The best part dough 3 to 4 times in bowl to make sure stiff mixture, this icing will appear dense
about these cookies? No chilling or everything is well combined. and thick, not light and fluffy like your
freezing required! Whether you’re making 4. Divide dough in half; cover one half with typical meringue—that’s good! The
ornaments, trees, or snowflakes, simply plastic wrap. On a heavily floured surface, meringue powder isn’t needed for creating
roll out your dough, cut into desired roll remaining half to ¼-inch thickness. volume. Instead, it’s the secret ingredient
shapes, and bake. (Lightly flour top of dough if it sticks to to creating a structured, pipable icing
rolling pin.) Using desired holiday cutters, that will harden into a resilient edible
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, cut dough, rerolling scraps as necessary. adornment.
softened Using a small offset spatula, place cookies
2 cups (240 grams) confectioners’ sugar at least 1 inch apart on prepared pans. 1 (2-pound) package (907 grams)
1 large egg (50 grams), room 5. Bake, one batch at a time, until lightly confectioners’ sugar
temperature browned, 7 to 8 minutes. Let cool on pan 5 tablespoons (50 grams) meringue
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract for 5 minutes. Using a large offset or flat powder
3¼ cups (406 grams) all-purpose flour metal spatula, remove from pan, and let ¾ cup (180 grams) warm water
1½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) baking powder cool completely on wire racks. Decorate (105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C)
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt cooled cookies as desired with Royal Icing. 1 teaspoon (4 grams) almond extract
Royal Icing (recipe follows)
ROYAL ICING 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
1. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line Makes about 6 cups the paddle attachment, beat confectioners’
3 baking sheets with parchment paper. sugar and meringue powder at low speed
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with Confectioners’ sugar, meringue until combined. Slowly add ¾ cup
the paddle attachment, beat butter and powder, water, and extract are the only (180 grams) warm water and almond
confectioners’ sugar, slowly increasing ingredients needed to make royal icing, a extract, beating until fluid, about 1 minute.
mixer speed to medium, until fluffy, 3 to baker’s number one tool for making edible Increase mixer speed to medium, and
4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of art. We used meringue powder— beat until stiff, 4 to 5 minutes. Store in an
bowl. Add egg and vanilla, beating until a blend of dried, pasteurized egg whites, airtight container for up to 3 days.
combined. sugar, cornstarch, and citric acid—rather
november | december 2020 40
ORNAMENT COOKIES (Wilton No. 1). To the remaining 2 cups 5. Using white border icing, pipe an outline
(360 grams), add water, 1 teaspoon along edges of a cookie. Using the white
Like the vintage ornaments you were (5 grams) at a time, until flood consistency flood icing, fill in the top quarter of the
never allowed to touch as a kid, these is reached. Place in a pastry bag or a small round part of the ornament cookie; pipe
marvelously marbled cookies are piping bottle (if using) fitted with small a line each of red flood icing, green flood
extraordinarily ornate and brilliantly round piping tip (Wilton No. 3). icing, white flood icing, green flood icing,
colored. 3. To the second bowl (1½ cups and red flood icing. Fill in the remaining
[270 grams]), slowly add Kelly green food area with white flood icing. Using a wooden
MATERIALS NEEDED: coloring until a bright green is reached; pick, remove any air bubbles and make
Royal Icing (recipe on page 40) slowly add juniper green until the desired sure there are no gaps in the icing. Using
Water, as needed color is reached. Add water, 1 teaspoon a clean wooden pick, drag down through
Wilton Gel Food Coloring in Kelly Green, (5 grams) at a time, until border the centr of the colored band of icing, wipe
Juniper Green, Christmas Red, consistency is reached. Place ½ cup pick clean, and repeat 2 more times, to the
Golden Yellow, and Black (90 grams) in a separate bowl, cover left and right of the center, spacing evenly
3 to 6 pastry bags airtight, and set aside. To the remaining and wiping pick clean after each drag. Then
3 piping bottles (optional) 1 cup (180 grams), add water, 1 teaspoon drag up 2 times, between the down drags,
3 Wilton No. 1 piping tips (5 grams) at a time, until flood consistency wiping pick clean after each drag. Repeat
3 Wilton No. 3 piping tips is reached. Place in a pastry bag or a small with remaining cookies. Let dry for 2 to
36 (3½-inch) ornament-shaped Christmas piping bottle (if using) with small round 3 hours.
Sugar Cookies (recipe on page 40) piping tip (Wilton No. 3). 6. Uncover the red and green border icings,
Wooden picks 4. To the third bowl (1½ cups [270 grams]), and place each in a pastry bag fitted with
add Christmas red food coloring until a very small round piping tip (Wilton No.
1. Divide Royal Icing among 3 bowls: desired color is reached; add golden yellow 1). Above the marble design, pipe a red line
3 cups (540 grams) in the first, 1½ cups and a touch of black to keep it from going and then a green line. Below design, pipe a
(270 grams) in the second, and 1½ cups pink. Add water, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) at a green line and then a red line. Pipe 2 more
(270 grams) in the third. Cover bowls with time, until border consistency is reached. red lines, between each level down the point
a damp paper towel or kitchen towel to Place ½ cup (90 grams) in a separate of the ornament shape on the lower part of
keep icing from drying out. bowl, cover airtight, and set aside. To the the cookie. Pipe a horizontal row of green
2. To the first bowl (3 cups [540 grams]), remaining 1 cup (180 grams), add water, dots between bottom red lines (4 dots and
add water, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) at a time, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) at a time, until flood then 3 dots); pipe a vertical row of 2 green
until border consistency is reached. Place consistency is reached. Place in a pastry dots on the bottom tip of the ornament. Let
1 cup (180 grams) in a pastry bag fitted bag or a small piping bottle fitted with dry until hardened, about 30 minutes. Store
with a very small round piping tip small round piping tip (Wilton No. 3). in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Decoration Details: Ornament Cookies

1. Using the white flood icing, fill in the top 2. Using a clean wooden pick, drag a line 3. Above the marble design, pipe a red line
quarter of the round part of the ornament down through the center of the colored and then a green line. Below design, pipe a
cookie; pipe a line each of red flood icing, band of icing. Wipe pick clean, and repeat green line and then a red line. Pipe 2 more
green flood icing, white flood icing, green flood 2 more times, to the left and right of the red lines, between each level down the
icing, and red flood icing. Keep a steady hand center, spacing evenly and wiping pick point of the ornament shape on the lower
as you pipe your alternating flood icings, as clean after each drag (any residual icing part of the cookie. Pipe a horizontal row of
any wiggling will lead to uneven icing bleed. Try left on the pick will muddy the colors). green dots between bottom red lines
to keep the lines an even thickness as well, as Then drag up 2 times, between the down (4 dots and then 3 dots); pipe a vertical
one heavier line can overwhelm a thinner line. drags, wiping pick clean after each drag. row of 2 green dots on the bottom tip of
You don’t need to touch the border icing as Let dry for 2 to 3 hours. the ornament. Let dry until hardened,
you pipe; if it doesn’t naturally settle into the about 30 minutes. Store in an airtight
edges, you can use a wooden pick to gently container for up to 1 week.
nudge it to the edge.
november | december 2020 42
WINTER TREE COOKIES bright green is reached; slowly add juniper (including next to green icing). Fill in using
green until the desired color is reached. the same consistency, and use a wooden
With a paintbrush and bit of icing, our Add water, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) at a time, pick to remove any air bubbles and make
verdant green trees get a romantic until border consistency is reached. Place sure there are no gaps in the icing. Repeat
dappling of winter snow. 1 cup (180 grams) in a pastry bag fitted with remaining cookies. Let dry for 2 to
with a very small round tip (Wilton No. 1). 3 hours.
MATERIALS NEEDED: To the remaining 3 cups (540 grams), add 6. Place white border icing in a pastry bag
Royal Icing (recipe on page 40) water, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) at a time, until fitted with small round tip (Wilton No.
Wilton Gel Food Coloring in Kelly Green, flood consistency is reached. Place in a 2). Place paintbrush in water. Starting at
Juniper Green, and Brown large squeeze bottle. the base of the tree, pipe a row of dots,
Water, as needed 3. To the second bowl (1¾ cups keeping in mind they will be grouped in
3 pastry bags [315 grams]), add water, 1 teaspoon 2 or 3. Remove brush from water, and wipe
2 Wilton No. 1 piping tips (5 grams) at a time, until border off excess water. Place brush tip in the
Squeeze bottle consistency is reached; cover airtight, and center of each dot and brush away from
1 Wilton No. 2 piping tip set aside. you, creating groups of 2 or 3 that meet.
36 (3½-inch) tree-shaped Christmas 4. To the third bowl (¼ cup [45 grams]), (Wipe off any excess icing as needed that
Sugar Cookies (recipe on page 40) add brown food coloring until desired color the brush picks up.) Place brush back in
Wooden picks is reached. Add water, 1 teaspoon water and then pipe another row of dots.
Paintbrush (5 grams) at a time, until border Remove any excess water from the brush,
consistency is reached. Place in a pastry and repeat procedure until you reach the
1. Divide Royal Icing among 3 bowls: bag fitted with a very small round piping tip top of the tree. Repeat with remaining
4 cups (720 grams) in the first, 1¾ cups (Wilton No. 1). cookies. Let dry until hardened, about
(315 grams) in the second, and ¼ cup 5. Using green border icing, pipe an outline 30 minutes. Store in an airtight container
(45 grams) in the third. Cover bowls with a along edges of tree part of a cookie. Using for up to 1 week.
damp paper towel or kitchen towel to keep green flood icing, fill in center. Using a
from drying out. wooden pick, remove any air bubbles and
2. To the first bowl (4 cups [720 grams]), make sure there are no gaps in the icing.
slowly add Kelly green food coloring until a Using the brown icing, pipe border of trunk

Decoration Details: Winter Tree Cookies

1. Once your green and brown base icing has 2. Remove brush from water, and wipe off 3. A fine-tipped paintbrush like the one
dried, you can begin creating snowy details. excess water. Too much water on the brush we used tends to spring into a narrow cone
Place white border icing in a pastry bag fitted will dilute your icing and make you lose shape. We want a more fanned-out broom
with a small round tip (Wilton No. 2). Place definition. Place brush tip in the center shape, leaving dramatic swept trails in the
paintbrush in water. Starting at the base of of each dot and brush away from you, icing. If you start losing the detailed sweep
the tree, pipe a row of dots, keeping in mind creating groups of 2 or 3 that meet. It look, flatten your brush tip between your
they will be grouped in 2 or 3. These should be should look like dimpled teardrops that join fingers to fan it out again.
generous dots of icing, not tiny pinpoints, so thinly at the top. 4. Continue to dot and sweep your way to
you can brush them into snowy sweeps. the top of your cookie. Use 2-dot clusters
in narrow spaces at the top and edges. Let
dry until hardened, about 30 minutes.
november | december 2020 44
SNOWFLAKE COOKIES until a soft blue or desired color is reached. snowflake, pipe a thin white line to the
Add water, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) at a time, opposite tip, leaving a rounded end at each
Complete with two icy designs, these until border consistency is reached. Place tip. Repeat with the remaining tips, making
cookies look like the intricate inner 1 cup (180 grams) in a pastry bag fitted sure each line (there will be 3 total) meets
workings of a snowflake. In reality, a with a very small round tip (Wilton No. 1). the others in the center. On each line
simple series of lines, dots, and “V” To the remaining 3 cups (540 grams), add going from the center, pipe 3 “V” shapes
shapes make up its pattern, offering the water, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) at a time, until with the points going toward the center.
gold standard of royal iced cookies: easy flood consistency is reached. Place in a Using the dark blue, pipe a small dot
execution, dazzling results. large squeeze bottle. between each line (there will be 6) and
3. To the second bowl (1½ cups 1 larger dot in the center, where the white
MATERIALS NEEDED: [270 grams]), add water, 1 teaspoon lines meet.
Royal Icing (recipe on page 40) (5 grams) at a time, until border 8. For design 2: Starting at one tip of
Wilton Gel Food Coloring in Cornflower consistency is reached; cover airtight, and snowflake, pipe a thin white line to the
Blue set aside. opposite tip, leaving a rounded end at each
Water, as needed 4. To the third bowl (½ cup [90 grams]), tip and making sure to leave space for a dot
3 pastry bags add cornflower blue food coloring until at each tip. Repeat with the remaining tips,
2 Wilton No. 1 piping tips dark blue or desired color is reached. Add making sure each line (there will be
Squeeze bottle water, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) at a time, 3 total) meets the others in the center.
36 (3⅛-inch) snowflake-shaped Christmas until border consistency is reached; cover Pipe smaller lines over the center, between
Sugar Cookies (recipe on page 40) airtight, and set aside. the larger lines (3 total). On each larger
Wooden picks 5. Using the light blue border icing, pipe line going from the center, pipe 2 “V”
Wilton No. 2 piping tip an outline along edges of a cookie. Using shapes with the points going toward the
White pearls light blue flood icing, fill in center. Using a center. Using the dark blue, pipe small
Tweezers wooden pick, remove any air bubbles and dots at each tip of the snowflake; pipe
make sure there are no gaps in the icing. dots between the “V” shapes on each
1. Divide Royal Icing into 3 bowls: 4 cups Repeat with remaining cookies. Let dry for line (1 on each side of the line), and pipe
(720 grams) in the first, 1½ cups 2 to 3 hours. a small dot at the end of the smaller lines
(270 grams) in the second, and ½ cup 6. Place white border icing in a pastry bag coming from the center. Place a white
(90 grams) in the third. Cover bowls with a fitted with very small round tip (Wilton No. pearl in the center. (Use tweezers for
damp paper towel or kitchen towel to keep 1). Place dark blue border icing in a pastry easier placement.) Repeat with remaining
from drying out. bag fitted with a small round tip (Wilton cookies. Let dry until hardened, about
2. To the first bowl (4 cups [720 grams]), No. 2). 30 minutes. Store in an airtight container
add cornflower blue food coloring, 7. For design 1: Starting at one tip of for up to 1 week.

Decoration Details: Snowflake Cookies Design #1

Design #2
Design 1 is slightly simpler
than design 2, but have similar
steps. After making the long
bisecting lines mentioned in
step 1, you’ll pipe smaller lines
over the center, between the
larger lines (3 total). Then
you’ll pipe 2 “V” shapes at
the top of each of the longer
1. Starting at one tip of the snowflake, pipe a thin 3 “V” shapes with the points going toward the lines. A smattering of blue
white line to the opposite tip, leaving a rounded end center. Try to keep the “V” shapes tucked to the dots fills the empty space,
at each tip. Repeat with the remaining tips, making main line so that as you pipe more “V” shapes on and a pearl sprinkle is placed
sure each line (there will be 3 total) meets the others the other lines, they won’t overlap and touch. in the center as a crowning
in the center. Like when piping a border, you’ll make 3. Using the dark blue, pipe a small dot between jewel. Use tweezers for exact
a thread of icing that’ll span the expanse of the each line (there will be 6) and 1 larger dot in the pearl placement so you keep
cookie, only touching down on the cookie with your center, where the white lines meet. Let dry until from accidentally smudging
tip to create the rounded ends. hardened, about 30 minutes. Store in an airtight the icing. •
2. On each line going from the center, pipe container for up to 1 week
november | december 2020 46
 Pret y inPearl
WITH PEARL SUGAR IN YOUR PANTRY, THE WORLD IS YOUR OYSTER. WE’RE
OFFERING THREE RECIPES THAT UNLOCK THE POWER OF BELGIAN AND SWEDISH PEARL SUGAR, FROM
TRADITIONAL SWEDISH KANELBULLAR TO A REVOLUTIONARY FRUITCAKE-COFFEE CAKE HYBRID.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM DICKEY / STYLING BY CAROLINE BLUM

47 bake from scratch

Pearl Sugar Streusel
Coffee-Fruitcake
page 52
 Suikerbrood
page 54

49 bake from scratch

Swedish
Cinnamon Buns
page 53
 Our Pearls of Sugar Wisdom
There are two common pearl sugar varieties: Belgian and Swedish. The sugars differ
primarily in pearl size. Belgian offers a bigger granule, which can handle higher heat and
maintains its shape better. It is often mixed into doughs and batters where it can melt
or caramelize, like in our Suikerbrood or the classic Liège waffle. Swedish pearl sugar is
smaller and used mainly as a topping or garnish, like for our Swedish Cinnamon Buns. Buy Lars Own Belgian Pearl Sugar and Lars
Despite their differences, they are both equally impressive. We find using Lars Own Own Swedish Pearl Sugar at amazon.com or
pearl sugar yields excellent results. at specialty food stores.

51 bake from scratch

PEARL SUGAR STREUSEL COFFEE-FRUITCAKE 5. In a small bowl, stir together fruit mixture and remaining
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake 1 tablespoon (8 grams) flour; fold into batter. Spread batter in
prepared pan. Crumble Pearl Sugar Streusel on top. (Crumble
Coffee cake meets fruitcake in a chic rendition of flavors. Dried layer will be quite thick.) Sprinkle with pearl sugar.
cranberries, candied orange, and candied ginger get a luxurious bath 6. Bake until golden brown and a wooden pick inserted in center
in fragrant brandy while spices reminiscent of the holidays infuse the comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes, rotating pan halfway through
silky batter. We swapped out the usual sour cream for tangy crème baking and loosely covering with foil to prevent excess browning,
fraîche to create an extra-elegant crumb. To top it all off, Swedish if necessary. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Remove sides of pan.
pearl sugar adds a surprise crunch to the crispy streusel that will have Let cool completely on base of pan on a wire rack. Garnish with
your cup of coffee begging for more. confectioners’ sugar, if desired.

1 cup (210 grams) brandy

⅓ cup (53 grams) lightly packed sweetened dried cranberries, PRO TIP
roughly chopped The leftover strained brandy can be used as a boozy flavoring
⅓ cup (50 grams) lightly packed finely chopped candied orange for other cakes and baked goods. It also makes a great addition
3 tablespoons (40 grams) lightly packed finely chopped to cocktails, coffee, and more!
candied ginger
⅔ cup (150 grams) unsalted butter, softened PEARL SUGAR STREUSEL
⅔ cup (147 grams) firmly packed dark brown sugar Makes 1½ cups
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (124 grams) granulated sugar
1⅔ cups (208 grams) plus 1 tablespoon (8 grams) all-purpose ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, melted
flour, divided 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon 1⅓ cups (167 grams) all-purpose flour
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt ½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking powder
¾ teaspoon (1.5 grams) ground ginger ⅓ cup (64 grams) Swedish pearl sugar
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground cloves 1. In a medium bowl, stir together granulated sugar,
⅔ cup (160 grams) crème fraîche, room temperature melted butter, vanilla, and salt until well combined.
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract Add flour and baking powder; stir until well
Pearl Sugar Streusel (recipe follows) combined. Fold in pearl sugar.
¼ cup (48 grams) Swedish pearl sugar
Garnish: confectioners’ sugar

1. In a small saucepan, bring brandy just to a boil over medium-

high heat. Remove from heat; stir in cranberries, candied orange,
and candied ginger. Cover and let stand for 30 minutes, stirring
occasionally. Drain fruit mixture, reserving brandy.
2. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray a 9-inch springform pan
with baking spray with flour. Line bottom of pan with parchment
paper.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment,
beat butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar at medium speed
until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add
eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together 1⅔ cups (208 grams) flour,
baking powder, cinnamon, salt, ground ginger, nutmeg, and
cloves. In a small bowl, stir together crème fraîche, 1 tablespoon
(13 grams) reserved brandy, and vanilla. With mixer on low speed,
gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture alternately with
crème fraîche mixture, beginning and ending with flour mixture,
beating just until combined after each addition.
SWEDISH CINNAMON BUNS 2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk gently stretching until it is nearly double
Makes about 18 buns and butter over medium heat, stirring its original length. Grabbing one end of
occasionally, until butter is melted and twisted strip between middle 2 or 3 fingers
Twisted into adorable bows and sprinkled with an instant-read thermometer registers and thumb of same hand, loosely wrap
crunchy Swedish pearl sugar, these pillow-soft 120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C). Add dough around fingers twice, overlapping
buns are bursting with fragrant holiday spices, warm milk mixture to flour mixture; beat slightly. Place thumb of same hand over
taking inspiration from the Swedish cinnamon at medium speed for 2 minutes. Add egg; overlapped dough strands to secure; wrap
bun, kanelbulle. beat at medium-high speed for 2 minutes. remaining end of dough perpendicularly
Gradually add 2¼ cups (281 grams) flour, around overlapping dough strands to form
Dough: beating just until combined and stopping to a knot-like shape, tucking loose end under
3¼ to 3½ cups (406 to 437 grams) scrape sides of bowl. bottom of finished bun. Place buns 1½ to
all-purpose flour, divided 3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. 2 inches apart on prepared pans. Cover
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar Beat at medium-low speed until a soft, and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) instant yeast smooth, elastic dough forms, 6 to (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size and
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) kosher salt 9 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of dough holds an indentation when poked,
1½ teaspoons (3 grams) ground bowl and dough hook; add up to remaining 45 minutes to 1 hour.
cardamom ¼ cup (31 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon 8. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
1 cup (240 grams) whole milk (8 grams) at a time, if needed. (Dough 9. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and
⅓ cup (76 grams) unsalted butter, may still stick slightly to sides of 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water. Brush
softened bowl.) Check dough for proper gluten egg wash on top of buns. Sprinkle with
1 large egg (50 grams), room development using the windowpane test. pearl sugar.
temperature (See Note.) Cover and let rise in a warm, 10. Bake until golden brown and an instant-
draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled read thermometer inserted in center
Filling: in size, 30 to 45 minutes. registers at least 190°F (88°C), 12 to
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, room 4. For filling: In a medium bowl, stir 14 minutes, rotating pans halfway through
temperature* together butter, brown sugar, cinnamon, baking and covering loosely with foil to
½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed light cardamom, ginger, cloves, pepper, and salt prevent excess browning, if necessary. Let
brown sugar until well combined. cool on pans for 5 minutes. Serve warm.
4 teaspoons (8 grams) ground cinnamon 5. Punch down dough; cover and let stand
2½ teaspoons (5 grams) ground for 5 minutes. On a lightly floured surface, *Unlike softened butter, room temperature
cardamom roll dough into a 22x15-inch rectangle, butter should provide no resistance when
1¼ teaspoons (2.5 grams) ground ginger one short side closest to you. Using a large pressed with a finger. At this point, the butter
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cloves offset spatula, dot filling onto dough, and is softened enough to easily spread over dough.
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper spread in an even layer all the way to edges.
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt Fold dough in thirds like a letter. Place on a Note: To use the windowpane test to check
parchment-lined baking sheet; cover with dough for proper gluten development, pinch
1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 10 minutes. off (don’t tear) a small piece of dough.
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water 6. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with Slowly pull the dough out from the center.
Swedish pearl sugar, for sprinkling parchment paper. If the dough is ready, you will be able to
7. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough stretch it until it’s thin and translucent like a
1. For dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer into a 15x8-inch rectangle, one long side windowpane. If the dough tears, it’s not quite
fitted with the paddle attachment, beat closest to you. Using a pastry wheel or ready. Beat for 1 minute, and test again.
1 cup (125 grams) flour, granulated sugar, pizza cutter, cut into 18 strips (about
yeast, salt, and cardamom at low speed just 8x¾ inches each). Holding a strip with
until combined. one end in each hand, twist strip 5 times,
SUIKERBROOD Honey-Ginger Syrup; beat at medium- 8. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
Makes 1 (8½x4½-inch) loaf high speed for 2 minutes. Gradually add 9. In a small bowl, whisk together
1½ cups (188 grams) flour, beating just remaining 1 egg (50 grams) and remaining
An ultra-sweet Dutch specialty hailing until combined and stopping to scrape 1 tablespoon (15 grams) milk. Brush
from Friesland, a Northern province of the sides of bowl. egg wash on top of loaf. Sprinkle with
Netherlands, suikerbrood, which translates 3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. remaining 2 tablespoons (20 grams)
to “sugar bread,” is a spiced loaf with a Beat at medium-low speed until a soft, pearl sugar.
surprise interior. Slice into the bread to unveil smooth, elastic dough forms, 6 to 10. Bake for 15 minutes. Loosely cover with
a hypnotizing amber swirl and glistening 9 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of foil, rotate pan, and bake until an instant-
pockets of sugar courtesy of Belgian bowl and dough hook; add up to remaining read thermometer inserted in center
pearl sugar. ¼ cup (31 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon registers 190°F (88°C), 20 to 25 minutes
(8 grams) at a time, if needed. (Dough may more. Using excess parchment as handles,
2½ to 2¾ cups (313 to 344 grams) still stick slightly to sides of bowl.) Check remove from pan, and let cool completely
all-purpose flour dough for proper gluten development using on a wire rack.
1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated the windowpane test. (See Note on page
sugar 53.) Cover and let rise in a warm, draft- *We used Platinum® Yeast from Red Star®.
1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in
instant yeast* size, 30 to 45 minutes. HONEY-GINGER SYRUP
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt 4. Spray an 8½x4½-inch loaf pan with Makes about 3 tablespoons
⅔ cup (160 grams) plus 1 tablespoon cooking spray. Line pan with parchment
(15 grams) whole milk, divided paper, letting excess extend over sides of ¼ cup (38 grams) ⅛-inch-sliced
¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, pan; lightly spray parchment. unpeeled fresh ginger
softened 5. Add ¾ cup (120 grams) pearl sugar ¼ cup (60 grams) water
2 large eggs (100 grams), room to dough in mixer bowl; return bowl 3 tablespoons (63 grams) clover honey
temperature and divided to stand mixer fitted with the dough
2 tablespoons (40 grams) Honey- hook attachment, and beat at medium- 1. In a small saucepan, combine ginger,
Ginger Syrup (recipe follows) low speed just until pearl sugar is well ¼ cup (60 grams) water, and honey;
¾ cup (120 grams) plus 2 tablespoons combined, about 1 minute, kneading in using a wooden spoon, gently muddle
(20 grams) Belgian pearl sugar, sugar by hand toward end, if necessary. ginger. Bring just to a boil over medium
divided Gently form dough into a round; cover and heat, stirring frequently. Reduce heat to
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon let stand for 20 minutes. medium-low, and simmer for 15 minutes.
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground ginger 6. Gently punch down dough. On a lightly Remove from heat; cover and let stand for
floured surface, roll dough into a 14x6-inch 30 minutes.
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted rectangle, pushing any pearl sugar pieces 2. Strain syrup mixture through a fine-
with the paddle attachment, beat 1 cup that fall out back into dough. mesh sieve, discarding solids. Let cool
(125 grams) flour, granulated sugar, 7. In a small bowl, stir together cinnamon to room temperature before using.
yeast, and salt at medium-low speed until and ginger. Sprinkle cinnamon mixture Refrigerate in an airtight container for up
combined. evenly over dough, leaving a ¼-inch border to 1 week.
2. In a medium saucepan, heat ⅔ cup around edges. Starting at one short side,
(160 grams) milk and butter over medium roll up dough, jelly roll style; pinch seam
PRO TIP
heat until butter is melted and an instant- to seal. Place, seam side down, in prepared
Leftover Honey-Ginger Syrup is a great
read thermometer registers 120°F (49°C) pan. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-
addition to tea, cocktails, sparkling
to 130°F (54°C). Add warm milk mixture free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in
water, and more. It can also be swirled
to flour mixture; beat at medium speed size and dough holds an indentation when
into your favorite preserves, to taste, for
for 2 minutes. Add 1 egg (50 grams) and poked, 30 to 45 minutes.
a little flavor twist. •

november | december 2020 54

Pear and Cranberry Kuchen
page 63
CUE THE
custard
CUSTARD, THE SIMPLE YET POWERFUL COMBINATION OF DAIRY, EGGS, AND SUGAR, OFFERS
EVERYTHING YOU COULD WANT IN A HOLIDAY DESSERT: RICH FLAVOR, LUXURIOUS TEXTURE,
AND VERSATILITY. WE BRING THE CUSTOMIZABLE MAGIC OF CUSTARD TO COOKIES, KUCHEN,
CHEESECAKE, AND MORE—ALL WHILE MAINTAINING ITS ORIGINAL GLORY.

PHOTOGRAPHY BYSTEPHANIE WELBOURNE STEELE

VANESSA ROCCHIO
FOOD STYLING BY
STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
Peppermint Custard-Stuffed
Chocolate Cookies
page 61
Gingerbread Custard Bars
page 62

november | december 2020 58

 Pear and Cranberry Kuchen
page 63

59 bake from scratch

Orange-Anise Basque Cheesecake
page 61
ORANGE-ANISE BASQUE 1. Using a peeler, remove zest from orange rack, and let cheesecake cool to room
CHEESECAKE in 1-inch strips. temperature, about 2 hours. Serve
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake 2. In a medium saucepan, heat zest strips, immediately, or refrigerate in pan on
cream, and star anise over medium-low wire rack until chilled, 4 to 5 hours or up
This cheesecake is all custard, no filler. An heat just until steaming and a film forms to overnight. (If refrigerating overnight,
iconic crustless cheesecake from the Basque on top. (Do not boil.) Remove from heat, cover loosely with foil once cooled to room
region of Spain, the Basque cheesecake has a and let stand for 30 minutes, stirring temperature.) Carefully remove from pan,
starkly scorched top with a creamy, just-set occasionally. Strain through a fine-mesh and transfer to a serving plate. If chilled, let
interior thanks to a high-temperature bake. sieve, and measure 1⅔ cups (400 grams) stand until room temperature, at least
We infused our custard with orange zest and infused cream; discard zest strips, star 30 minutes, before serving.
star anise, aromatics that often make their anise, and any remaining liquid.
way into mulled wine, for a holiday twist. 3. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line PEPPERMINT CUSTARD-
a 9-inch springform pan with 2 (16¼x12¼- STUFFED CHOCOLATE
1 large orange (184 grams) inch) sheets of parchment paper placed COOKIES
2¼ cups (540 grams) heavy whipping perpendicular to each another; spray Makes about 27 cookies
cream parchment with cooking spray. Place
3 whole star anise (3 grams), lightly prepared pan on a rimmed baking sheet. Cookies get all kinds of delicious fillings
crushed 4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with these days, but our peppermint custard-
3 (8-ounce) packages (680 grams) the paddle attachment, beat cream cheese filled cookies take it to the next level. These
cream cheese, softened at medium speed until smooth and creamy, peppermint candy-topped chocolate cookies
1⅓ cups (267 grams) granulated sugar 2 to 3 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of hide a wintry pastry cream flavored with
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt bowl. Add sugar and salt; beat at low speed both peppermint extract and soft peppermint
5 large eggs (250 gram), room just until combined. Increase mixer speed candies. To streamline this process, feel free
temperature to medium, and beat until well combined, to make both the pastry cream and the
2 teaspoons (10 grams) tightly packed about 1 minute, stopping to scrape sides cookie dough a day before baking.
orange zest of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating
1 teaspoon (6 grams) vanilla bean paste until combined after each addition. Beat 1½ cups (340 grams) unsalted butter,
¼ cup (31 grams) all-purpose flour in orange zest and vanilla bean paste. With softened
mixer on low speed, add infused cream 2¼ cups (450 grams) granulated sugar
in a slow, steady stream; increase mixer 3 large eggs (150 grams), room
speed to medium-low, and beat until temperature
well combined, about 1 minute, stopping 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) peppermint
to scrape sides of bowl. Sift flour over extract
batter; beat at low speed until combined 4 cups (500 grams) all-purpose flour
and smooth. Pour batter into prepared 1 cup (85 grams) Dutch process cocoa
springform pan. Gently tap sides of powder, sifted
pan 2 to 3 times to release any large 4½ teaspoons (22.5 grams) baking powder
air bubbles. 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
5. Bake until deep golden brown, center Peppermint Pastry Cream (recipe follows)
is very jiggly, and an instant-read 2 tablespoons (30 grams) water
thermometer inserted in center registers 1½ cups (270 grams) crushed soft
170°F (77°C) to 175°F (79°C), 50 minutes peppermint candies
to 1 hour. Place baking sheet on a wire
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment, beat butter and
sugar at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to
4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of
bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well
after each addition. Beat in peppermint
extract.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
cocoa, baking powder, and salt. With mixer
on low speed, gradually add flour mixture
to butter mixture, beating just until
combined and stopping to scrape sides of
bowl. Cover and refrigerate until dough
doesn’t stick to your fingers when pinched,
30 to 45 minutes.
3. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a skin from forming. Refrigerate until
4 rimmed baking sheets with parchment completely cooled, 2 to 3 hours or up to
paper. overnight. Whisk smooth before using.
4. Using a 1½-tablespoon spring-loaded
scoop, scoop dough (about 26 grams GINGERBREAD CUSTARD BARS
each), and roll into balls. Press balls into Makes 9 bars
2½-inch disks. Place 2 teaspoons
(12 grams) Peppermint Pastry Cream Based on the Pinterest wonder called magic
in center of half of disks; cover with custard cake, this recipe harnesses the
remaining disks, and crimp edges closed. chemistry of custard to create a miraculous
Gently shape into balls, and place on baked good. One batter becomes three
prepared pans; gently press into 2¼-inch distinct layers during baking: fudgy bottom,
disks, pressing together any cracks in custard center, and fluffy cake top. Breaking
edges, if necessary. Brush tops of cookies it down scientifically, you’re separating your
with 2 tablespoons (30 grams) water; top eggs to create two distinct bases, whipped
with candies. egg whites like for a sponge cake and beaten,
5. Bake until edges are set and tops thickened egg yolks like for a custard. They
look dry, 12 to 14 minutes. (See Note.) are then mixed and folded in with flour,
Carefully top with any remaining candies. confectioners’ sugar, and plenty of milk.
Let cool completely on pans. During baking, the dense custard to sink and
form a rich base and middle while the egg
Note: If you need to bake the cookies in white-lightened batter rises to the top.
batches, refrigerate any disks that are waiting
to be baked. 5 large eggs (250 grams), separated and
room temperature
PEPPERMINT PASTRY CREAM ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
Makes about 1¾ cups 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar,
divided
1½ cups (360 grams) whole milk 10 tablespoons (140 grams) unsalted remaining ¾ cup (150 grams) granulated
6 tablespoons (72 grams) granulated butter, melted and cooled slightly sugar at medium-high speed until pale
sugar, divided 3 tablespoons (63 grams) unsulphured yellow and mixture falls off paddle in
3 large egg yolks (56 grams) molasses ribbons, 2 to 3 minutes; scrape sides of
3½ tablespoons (28 grams) cornstarch 1¼ cups (156 grams) all-purpose flour bowl. With mixer on medium-low speed,
¼ teaspoon kosher salt 2 teaspoons (4 grams) ground ginger add melted butter in a slow, steady stream;
2 tablespoons (16 grams) finely crushed 2 teaspoons (4 grams) ground cinnamon add molasses in a slow, steady stream.
soft peppermint candies ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt Increase mixer speed to medium, and beat
1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter, ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground nutmeg until well combined, about 1 minute.
softened ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground allspice 4. In another medium bowl, whisk together
½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cloves flour, ginger, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg,
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) peppermint extract 2½ cups (600 grams) lukewarm whole allspice, and cloves. With mixer on low
milk (80°F/27°C to 85°F/29°C) speed, gradually add flour mixture to egg
1. In a medium saucepan, heat milk and ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract yolk mixture, beating just until combined
3 tablespoons (36 grams) sugar over Garnish: confectioners’ sugar and stopping to scrape sides of bowl. With
medium heat, stirring occasionally, until mixer on low speed, add lukewarm milk in
steaming. (Do not boil.) 1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Spray a slow, steady stream, stopping to scrape
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg a 9-inch square baking pan with cooking sides of bowl several times to make sure its
yolks, cornstarch, salt, and remaining spray. Line pan with parchment paper, evenly combined. Beat in vanilla. Using a
3 tablespoons (36 grams) sugar. Whisk letting excess extend over sides of pan. balloon whisk, fold in egg white mixture in
hot milk mixture into egg yolk mixture. 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with three additions. Pour into prepared pan.
Return mixture to sauce pan, and bring to the whisk attachment, beat egg whites and 5. Bake until lightly golden, center
a boil, whisking constantly. Cook, whisking cream of tartar at medium-high speed until is barely jiggly, and an instant-read
constantly, until cornstarch flavor has foamy, about 30 seconds. With mixer on thermometer inserted in center registers
cooked out, 2 to 3 minutes. (Mixture will medium-high speed, add ¼ cup (50 grams) 170°F (77°C) to 175°F (79°C), 30 to
be thick.) Remove from heat, and strain granulated sugar in a slow, steady steam; 40 minutes. Let cool completely in pan
through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium increase mixer speed to high, and beat until on a wire rack. Using excess parchment as
heatproof bowl. Stir in candies, butter, and stiff peaks form, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to handles, remove from pan. Garnish with
extracts until completely combined. Cover a medium bowl, and set aside. confectioners’ sugar, if desired. Refrigerate
with plastic wrap, pressing wrap directly 3. Return bowl to stand mixer. Using the in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
onto surface of pastry cream to prevent paddle attachment, beat egg yolks and Serve room temperature or chilled.
november | december 2020 62
PEAR AND CRANBERRY 4. Slice each pear half lengthwise into
KUCHEN ¼-inch-thick slices. Working with one half
Makes 1 (9-inch) tart at a time, slide pieces into a line, and place,
evenly spaced, in a line in prepared crust.
Kuchen, the German word for “cake,” can Brush lemon juice all over pears.
mean a number of things, depending on 5. In a small bowl, whisk together cream,
where you live. In North and South Dakota, granulated sugar, egg yolks, salt, cinnamon,
the kuchen you can expect is a cross between ginger, and cloves. Pour mixture between
a pie and a tart, with a pastry crust filled pears in crust; sprinkle cranberries on top.
with a blend of seasonal fruit and, of course, 6. Bake until edges are set, center jiggles
custard. This historic baked good was brought slightly, and an instant-read thermometer
over by Germanic homesteaders who settled inserted in center registers 170°F (77°C)
in the Dakotas, and it has since become the to 175°F (79°C), 40 to 50 minutes. Let
state dessert of South Dakota. Our version cool completely in pan on a wire rack.
honors its forebearers with a simple spiced Serve immediately, or refrigerate until
shortcrust filled with a generous pour of ready to serve. Just before serving, place a
custard and an artful arrangement of pears 8-inch circle of parchment paper in center
and cranberries. of tart, and dust confectioners’ sugar onto
outside edge, if desired. Brush pears with
Spiced Shortcrust Pastry (recipe follows) apricot preserves, if desired. Serve chilled
2 medium Anjou pears (314 grams), or at room temperature.
peeled, halved, stemmed, and cored
2 teaspoons (10 grams) fresh lemon SPICED SHORTCRUST PASTRY
juice Makes 1 (9-inch) crust
⅔ cup (160 grams) heavy whipping
cream 1¾ cups (219 grams) all-purpose flour
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar
2 large egg yolks (38 grams) ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground ginger
⅛ teaspoon ground ginger ¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking powder
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves ¼ teaspoon ground cloves
¾ cup (83 grams) fresh or frozen ½ cup (113 grams) cold unsalted butter,
cranberries cubed
Garnish: confectioners’ sugar, apricot 1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten
preserves 1 tablespoon (15 grams) heavy whipping
cream
1. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).
2. Top prepared Spiced Shortcrust Pastry 1. Spray a 9-inch fluted round removable-
with a piece of parchment paper, letting bottom tart pan with cooking spray.
ends extend over edges of pan. Add pie 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
weights. the paddle attachment, beat flour, sugar,
3. Bake until edges look dry, about salt, cinnamon, ginger, baking powder,
15 minutes. Carefully remove parchment and cloves at low speed until combined.
and weights. Bake until bottom crust looks Add cold butter, and beat until mixture is
dry, about 5 minutes more. Reduce oven crumbly and resembles fine bread crumbs
temperature to 300°F (150°C). and no large pieces of butter remain, 2 to
3 minutes. Add egg and cream, and beat at
low speed until a dough forms. Press dough
into bottom and up sides of prepared pan.
(Alternatively, on a lightly floured surface,
roll dough into an 11-inch circle [about
¼ inch thick]; transfer to prepared pan,
pressing into bottom and up sides.) Trim
excess dough, and discard. Prick bottom
of dough all over with a fork. Freeze until
firm, 10 to 15 minutes. •
 1-2-3-4
Holiday Cakes
IT’S THE ICONIC 1-2-3-4 CAKE, ALL DONE UP IN ITS
HOLIDAY BEST. THE 1-2-3-4 CAKE IS BASED ON
ONE SIMPLE RECIPE EQUATION:
1 CUP BUTTER + 2 CUPS SUGAR + 3 CUPS FLOUR + 4 EGGS =
one flawless cake
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHANIE WELBOURNE STEELE
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT LAURA CRANDALL
FOOD STYLING BY MEGAN LANKFORD
STYLING BY MELISSA STURDIVANT SMITH
E asy to remember and a cinch to pull together, the beauty of the
1-2-3-4 cake lies not in only its simplicity but also in its versatility.
Bakers looking for a foolproof recipe to use as their platform for
revolutionary flavors return to this formula again and again. We, too, used
this magic arithmetic to create four uniquely festive cakes, from a meringue-
topped Hot Chocolate Marshmallow Cake to a four-layered white and red
velvet showstopper. Out of the tried-and-true comes something brand-new.
HOT CHOCOLATE 4. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, ITALIAN MERINGUE
MARSHMALLOW CAKE unsweetened cocoa, baking powder, and Makes 6 cups
Makes 1 (8-inch) cake salt. With mixer on low speed, gradually add
flour mixture to butter mixture alternately 1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar
For this cake take on hot chocolate, we with milk mixture, beginning and ending with ⅓ cup (80 grams) water
envisioned a cake packed with cocoa flavor flour mixture, beating just until combined ⅔ cup (160 grams) egg whites, room
in the form of rich chocolate cake layers and after each addition. Divide batter between temperature (about 5 large egg whites)
even richer Chocolate Meringue Buttercream. prepared pans, smoothing tops with an offset ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
In order to do this, we had to adjust the spatula. ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract
1-2-3-4 formula slightly, decreasing the flour 5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center
to 2½ cups and making up the ½-cup deficit comes out clean, 28 to 30 minutes. Let cool 1. In a small saucepan, combine sugar and
with cocoa powder. The final touches—a in pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans, ⅓ cup (80 grams) water. Bring to a boil over
marshmallow-like Italian Meringue blanket and let cool completely on wire racks. high heat, being careful not to splash sides of
and warming dose of coffee liqueur brushed 6. Trim cooled cake layers flat, and brush pan, stirring to help sugar dissolve. (Do not
onto the baked cake layers—bring the layers with remaining ½ cup (120 grams) stir once mixture starts to boil.) Cook until
comfort of a cup of cocoa to the cake stand. liqueur. Place 1 cake layer on a cake plate; an instant-read thermometer registers
spread Chocolate Meringue Buttercream 240°F (116°C).
¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk, room on top, and top with remaining cake layer. 2. Meanwhile, in the bowl of a stand mixer
temperature Spread Italian Meringue on top and sides fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg
3 tablespoons (30 grams) hot chocolate of cake. Using a handheld kitchen torch, whites and cream of tartar at medium speed
cocoa powder* carefully brown meringue. Store in an airtight until soft peaks form.
½ cup (120 grams) plus 3 tablespoons container. Best served same day, but finished 3. With mixer on medium speed, pour hot
(45 grams) coffee liqueur*, divided cake can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. sugar syrup between side of bowl and whisk
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, attachment in a slow, steady stream. Increase
softened *We used Guittard Grand Cacao Drinking mixer speed to high, and beat until bowl is
2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar Chocolate and Kahlúa. cool to the touch, 4 to 5 minutes. Beat in
4 large eggs (200 grams), room vanilla. Use immediately.
temperature CHOCOLATE MERINGUE BUTTERCREAM
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract Makes 1⅔ cups
2½ cups (313 grams) cake flour
½ cup (43 grams) unsweetened cocoa 2 cups (148 grams) Italian Meringue
powder (recipe follows)
1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder ⅔ cup (150 grams) unsalted butter,
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt softened and cubed
Chocolate Meringue Buttercream (recipe 2 ounces (57 grams) 70% cacao
follows) bittersweet chocolate, melted and
4 cups (296 grams) Italian Meringue cooled slightly
(recipe follows)
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray whisk attachment, place 2 cups (148 grams)
2 tall-sided 8-inch round cake pans with Italian Meringue. With mixer on high speed,
baking spray with flour. add butter, about 1 tablespoon (14 grams)
2. In a small saucepan, heat milk over medium at a time, beating until well combined after
heat until steaming. (Do not boil.) Remove each addition. Fold in melted chocolate. Use
from heat, and whisk in hot chocolate immediately.
powder until completely dissolved. Whisk in
3 tablespoons (45 grams) liqueur. Let cool
slightly.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
paddle attachment, beat butter and sugar at
medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes,
stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add
eggs, one at a time, beating well after each
addition. Beat in vanilla.

november | december 2020 68

ALMOND-CRANBERRY CAKE 5. Trim cooled cake layers flat, and brush
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake each layer with simple syrup. Spread 2 cups
(490 grams) Almond Buttercream between
Tart cranberries and nutty almond extract layers. Spread remaining buttercream on top
give the simple 1-2-3-4 cake a boost of bright and sides of cake. Garnish with almonds and
holiday flavor. The Sugared Cranberries Sugared Cranberries, if desired.
garnish serves a dual purpose, creating a
beautiful holiday topping as well as a simple SUGARED CRANBERRIES
syrup that you’ll brush onto your cake layers Makes 1 cup
to make them extra-tender.
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar,
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, divided
softened ½ cup (120 grams) water
2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar 1 cup (110 grams) fresh cranberries
4 large eggs (200 grams), room
temperature 1. In a medium saucepan, heat ½ cup
2 teaspoons (10 grams) tightly packed (100 grams) sugar and ½ cup (120 grams)
orange zest water over medium heat, stirring occasionally,
¾ teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla extract just until sugar dissolves. Let cool slightly.
¾ teaspoon (3 grams) almond extract 2. Stir cranberries into syrup. Remove
3 cups (375 grams) cake flour cranberries using a slotted spoon, and
1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder let excess drip off. Place on a sheet of
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt parchment paper, and let dry for 1 hour.
1 cup (240 grams) whole milk, room Reserve ½ cup (140 grams) simple syrup for
temperature Almond-Cranberry Cake.
1½ cups (165 grams) fresh or frozen 3. Toss together cranberries and remaining
cranberries ½ cup (100 grams) sugar.
½ cup (140 grams) simple syrup,
reserved from Sugared Cranberries ALMOND BUTTERCREAM
(recipe follows) Makes about 6 cups
Almond Buttercream (recipe follows)
Garnish: lightly toasted sliced almonds, 2 cups (454 grams) unsalted butter,
Sugared Cranberries (recipe follows) softened
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray 1 (2-pound) package (907 grams)
2 (9-inch) round cake pans with baking spray confectioners’ sugar
with flour. ½ cup (120 grams) cold heavy whipping
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the cream
paddle attachment, beat butter and sugar at ¼ teaspoon (1 gram) almond extract
medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes,
stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
eggs, one at a time, beating well after each the paddle attachment, beat butter and salt
addition. Beat in orange zest and extracts. at medium-low speed until smooth. Reduce
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, mixer speed to low; add confectioners’ sugar,
baking powder, and salt. With mixer on low about 1 cup (120 grams) at a time, alternately
speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter with cold cream, about 1 tablespoon
mixture alternately with milk, beginning and (15 grams) at a time, beating until smooth
ending with flour mixture, beating just until after each addition. Increase mixer speed to
combined after each addition. Transfer half of medium, and beat until smooth and fluffy,
batter (about 323 grams) to a large bowl; fold 1 to 2 minutes. Add almond extract, and beat
in half of fresh or frozen cranberries. Fold until combined.
remaining fresh or frozen cranberries into
remaining batter in mixer bowl. Pour
into prepared pans, smoothing tops with an
offset spatula.
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center
comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool
in pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans,
and let cool completely on wire racks.
november | december 2020 70
PECAN PIE CAKE
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake

Combining the beloved flavor of a pecan

pie with the delicate texture of a 1-2-3-4
layer cake, this cake offers the best of both
desserts. Hidden beneath a generous coat of
Brown Sugar Buttercream is a moist brown
sugar cake and a Pecan Pie Filling that’ll
immediately call to mind your favorite Spoon half of Pecan Pie Filling (about
deep-dish dessert. 1¼ cups [about 337 grams]) on cake
layer, and gently smooth until even and
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, reaches piped border. Top with second
softened cake layer, and repeat procedure. Top
2 cups (440 grams) firmly packed dark with remaining cake layer, and brush with
brown sugar remaining Simple Syrup. Reserve 1½ cups
4 large eggs (200 grams), room (285 grams) Brown Sugar Buttercream
temperature to decorate top of cake. Spread remaining
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract buttercream on top and sides of cake. Using
3 cups (375 grams) cake flour a cake comb, comb sides of cake. Gently
1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder press pecans high on sides of cake and a
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt few at bottom, if desired. Place reserved
1 cup (240 grams) whole milk, room buttercream in a large pastry bag fitted with
temperature a ½-inch open star tip (Ateco #824), and
Simple Syrup (recipe follows) pipe a border around edge of cake. Cover occasionally, until sugars completely dissolve
Brown Sugar Buttercream (recipe follows) and refrigerate until ready to serve. Allow to and an instant-read thermometer registers
Pecan Pie Filling (recipe follows) come to room temperature before serving. 120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C).
Garnish: finely chopped lightly toasted 2. Carefully return bowl to stand mixer.
pecans SIMPLE SYRUP Using the whisk attachment, beat at high
Makes ½ cup speed until bowl is cool to the touch, about
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray 8 minutes. Add butter, 2 tablespoons
3 (9-inch) round cake pans with baking spray ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar (28 grams) at a time, beating until combined
with flour. ⅓ cup (80 grams) water after each addition. Beat in vanilla and salt.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the Use immediately, or refrigerate in an airtight
paddle attachment, beat butter and brown 1. In a medium saucepan, heat sugar and container for up to 3 days. If refrigerating, let
sugar at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to ⅓ cup (80 grams) water over medium heat, stand at room temperature for 2 hours and
4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. stirring occasionally, just until sugar dissolves. rewhip until smooth before using.
Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after Let cool completely before using.
each addition. Beat in vanilla. PECAN PIE FILLING
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, BROWN SUGAR BUTTERCREAM Makes about 2½ cups
baking powder, and salt. With mixer on low Makes about 7 cups
speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter 1½ cups (170 grams) chopped pecans
mixture alternately with milk, beginning and 1½ cups (330 grams) firmly packed dark ⅔ cup (147 grams) firmly packed dark
ending with flour mixture, beating just until brown sugar brown sugar
combined after each addition. Divide batter 1 cup (240 grams) egg whites, room ⅔ cup (226 grams) light corn syrup
among prepared pans, smoothing tops with temperature (about 8 large egg ⅓ cup (76 grams) unsalted butter, cubed
an offset spatula. whites) ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center ⅔ cup (133 grams) granulated sugar 2 large eggs (100 grams)
comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool 2⅔ cups (604 grams) unsalted butter, 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
in pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans, cubed and softened ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
and let cool completely on wire racks. 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract
5. Place 1 cooled cake layer on a cake plate. ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt 1. In a medium saucepan, stir together all
Brush layer with about 2½ tablespoons ingredients. Bring to a boil over medium-
(45 grams) Simple Syrup. Place ½ cup 1. In the heatproof bowl of a stand mixer, high heat, stirring frequently. Reduce heat
(95 grams) Brown Sugar Buttercream in whisk together brown sugar, egg whites, and to medium-low; simmer, stirring constantly,
a small pastry bag; cut a ½-inch opening in granulated sugar by hand. Place bowl over a until thickened, 6 to 8 minutes. Let cool to
tip. Pipe a border around edge of cake layer. saucepan of simmering water. Cook, whisking room temperature before using.

november | december 2020 72

cover recipe
VANILLA-RED VELVET LAYER mixture alternately with milk, beginning and 1. In a medium saucepan, heat sugar and
CAKE ending with flour mixture, beating just until ⅓ cup (80 grams) water over medium
Makes 1 (8-inch) cake combined after each addition. Pour batter heat, stirring occasionally, just until sugar
into a prepared pan, smoothing top with an dissolves. Stir in vanilla. Let cool completely
One part vanilla, one part red velvet, full-on offset spatula. before using.
decadence. We adjusted the 1-2-3-4 cake 4. For red velvet layer: Clean bowl of stand
formula slightly for the red velvet batter, mixer and paddle attachment. Using the CREAM CHEESE FROSTING
replacing ¼ cup flour with ¼ cup cocoa paddle attachment, beat butter and sugar at Makes about 9 cups
powder. Styled with mesmerizing swirls of medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes,
Cream Cheese Frosting, this is holiday cheer stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add 3 (8-ounce) packages (680 grams)
at its finest. eggs, one at a time, beating well after each cream cheese, softened
addition. Beat in vanilla extract. 1½ cups (340 grams) unsalted butter,
Vanilla layer: 5. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, softened
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, cocoa, baking powder, and salt. With mixer 1 tablespoon (13 grams) vanilla extract
softened on low speed, gradually add flour mixture ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar to butter mixture alternately with milk, 3 pounds (1,361 grams) confectioners’
2 large eggs (100 grams), room beginning and ending with flour mixture, sugar
temperature beating just until combined after each
2 teaspoons (12 grams) vanilla bean addition. Beat in food coloring. Pour batter 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
paste* into remaining prepared pan, smoothing top paddle attachment, beat cream cheese and
1½ cups (188 grams) cake flour with an offset spatula. butter at medium-low speed until smooth
1½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) baking powder 6. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center and creamy, about 1 minute. Add vanilla and
¼ teaspoon kosher salt comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool salt, beating until combined. Reduce mixer
½ cup (120 grams) whole milk, room in pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans, speed to low; gradually add confectioners’
temperature and let cool completely on wire racks. sugar, beating until combined. Increase mixer
7. Trim cooled cake layers flat; cut each layer speed to medium, and beat until fluffy, about
Red velvet layer: in half horizontally. Place a red velvet cake 1 minute. •
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, layer on a cake plate. Brush with
softened 2 tablespoons (36 grams) Vanilla Simple
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar Syrup; spread 1 cup (225 grams) Cream
2 large eggs (100 grams), room Cheese Frosting on top. Place a red vanilla
temperature cake layer on top of frosting, and brush with
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract 2 tablespoons (36 grams) simple syrup;
1¼ cups (156 grams) cake flour spread 1 cup (225 grams) frosting on top.
¼ cup (21 grams) unsweetened cocoa Repeat procedure with remaining red
powder velvet layer. Top with remaining vanilla layer
1½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) baking powder and brush with remaining Vanilla Simple
¼ teaspoon kosher salt Syrup. Spread a thin layer of frosting on top
½ cup (120 grams) whole milk, room and sides of cake to create a crumb coat.
temperature Refrigerate until crumb coat is set, about
1 tablespoon (15 grams) red liquid food 45 minutes. Cover remaining frosting, and
coloring refrigerate until ready to use.
8. Using a spatula, fold remaining frosting
Vanilla Simple Syrup (recipe follows) until a spreadable consistency is reached.
Cream Cheese Frosting (recipe follows) Reserve 3½ cups (788 grams) frosting.
Spread remaining frosting on top of cake,
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray swirling as desired. Place reserved frosting in
2 tall-sided 8-inch round cake pans with a large pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch open
baking spray wih flour. star piping tip (Ateco #824). Pipe 1¼-inch-
2. For vanilla layer: In the bowl of a stand wide ribbons in a zigzag motion up sides of
mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cake. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
beat butter and sugar at medium speed until
fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape *We used Heilala Vanilla Bean Paste.
sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time,
beating well after each addition. Beat in VANILLA SIMPLE SYRUP
vanilla bean paste. Makes about ½ cup
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
baking powder, and salt. With mixer on low ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar
speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter ⅓ cup (80 grams) water
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
november | december 2020 74
 Very Merry
TARTS
FROM A POACHED PEAR AND BUTTERMILK WONDER
TO A SPARKLING WINE AND CHOCOLATE STUNNER, OUR
TRIO OF FREESTANDING TARTS OFFERS BOLD, FESTIVE
FLAVORS IN ELEGANT PASTRY PACKAGES

PHOTOGRAPHY BYJIM BATHIE

KATHLEEN KANEN
FOOD STYLING BY
STYLING BY CAROLINE BLUM
77 bake from scratch
SPARKLING WINE CHOCOLATE and mixture holds together when pinched. gradually add remaining ⅓ cup (80 grams)
GANACHE TART Press graham cracker mixture into bottom cold cream, beating until medium-stiff
Makes 1 (9½-inch) tart and up sides of prepared pan. peaks form. (Whisk by hand toward end
3. Bake until crust is set and fragrant, 8 to if needed; do not overmix.) Spread and
Sparkling wine and chocolate are a winning 10 minutes. Let cool completely on a swirl topping on tart as desired, being
combination, creating a celebratory tart ideal wire rack. careful not to overhandle white chocolate
for this festive season. With a graham cracker 4. In the top of a double boiler, combine mixture. Garnish with chocolate pearls and
crumb base, a semisweet ganache filling, semisweet chocolate, 1 cup (240 grams) chocolate shavings, if desired. Refrigerate
and a sparkling wine-spiked white chocolate cold cream, and salt. Cook over simmering until topping is set, about 30 minutes.
cream topping, this tart is chilled perfection. water, stirring frequently, until chocolate Remove from pan, and serve immediately.
If you abstain from alcohol, you can easily is melted and mixture is smooth. Remove
make this tart into a purely chocolate and from heat; gradually whisk in ⅓ cup *We used Guittard 64% Cacao Semisweet
cream affair (see PRO TIP)—because a (80 grams) sparkling wine until smooth Chocolate Baking Bars and Ghirardelli White
chocolate tart is a celebration in itself. and well combined. Pour mixture into Chocolate Baking Bars.
prepared crust. Refrigerate until semisweet
1½ cups (176 grams) chocolate graham chocolate mixture is set, at least 3 hours or
cracker crumbs (about 12 sheets) up to overnight. PRO TIP
2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated 5. In the clean top of a double boiler,
For a more subtle flavor, reduce the
sparkling wine in the white chocolate
sugar combine white chocolate and ⅓ cup topping to 1 tablespoon (15 grams).
6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted (80 grams) cold cream. Cook over For an alcohol-free option, replace the
butter, melted simmering water, stirring frequently, until sparkling wine in the filling with the
10 ounces (284 grams) 64% cacao chocolate is melted and mixture is smooth. same amount of heavy whipping cream
semisweet chocolate*, finely chopped Transfer white chocolate mixture to the and omit it in the white chocolate
(about 1⅔ cups) bowl of a stand mixer, and let cool to room topping.
2 cups (480 grams) cold heavy whipping temperature (70°F/21°C).
cream, divided 6. Using the whisk attachment, beat cooled
¼ teaspoon kosher salt white chocolate mixture at medium speed;
⅓ cup (80 grams) plus 2 tablespoons gradually add remaining 2 tablespoons
(30 grams) brut sparkling white wine, (30 grams) sparkling wine, beating until
divided well combined. Reduce mixer speed to
6 ounces (170 grams) white chocolate*, medium-low; slowly add ⅓ cup (80 grams)
finely chopped (about 1 cup) cold cream, beating until smooth and
Garnish: dark chocolate crunchy pearls, stopping frequently to scrape sides of
semisweet chocolate shavings bowl. Increase mixer speed to medium;

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray

a 9½-inch fluted round removable-bottom
tart pan with baking spray with flour.
2. In the work bowl of a food processor,
combine graham cracker crumbs and
sugar; pulse until well combined. Add
melted butter; pulse until well combined
SPICED PLUM LINZER TORTE into bottom and up sides of prepared pan,
Makes 1 (9½-inch) tart trimming any excess with a small sharp
knife; add any dough trimmings to
Named after the city of Linz, Austria, the reserved one-third of dough. Cover
Linzer torte is a classic European pastry with plastic wrap.
usually served during Christmas. Traditionally 3. Lightly flour a sheet of wax paper; place
made with a buttery shortcrust dough reserved dough on prepared wax paper, and
accented by ground nuts, the Linzer torte lightly flour top of dough. Place another
often hides a jewel-toned jam filling beneath sheet of wax paper on dough, and roll
an elaborate lattice crust. We followed sweet dough into a 12-inch circle (about
tradition to a T, gently arranging a hazelnut ⅛ inch thick); place on a baking
flour and almond flour crust over a beautiful sheet. Refrigerate rolled dough
plum preserves filling. and dough in pan for 1 hour.
4. Preheat oven to 350°F
1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour (180°C).
1¼ cups (120 grams) finely ground 5. Using a small offset spatula,
hazelnut flour spread preserves evenly onto
1 cup (96 grams) super-fine blanched dough in pan.
almond flour 6. Remove top wax paper from
⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar rolled dough; using a pastry
⅓ cup (73 grams) firmly packed light wheel or pizza cutter, cut
brown sugar dough into 1-inch-wide strips;
1 teaspoon (3 grams) tightly packed cover and refrigerate until firm,
orange zest about 15 minutes.
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt 7. Gently arrange strips about
¾ teaspoon (1.5 grams) ground cinnamon ½ inch apart in a lattice pattern
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking powder over preserves; press strips into
¼ teaspoon ground ginger edges of dough in pan, trimming
⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg off excess to create a clean
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves edge. (If dough becomes
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (198 grams) too soft, refrigerate in
cold unsalted butter, cubed 15-minute intervals as
1 large egg (50 grams) needed; a lightly floured
1 teaspoon (6 grams) vanilla bean paste large offset spatula can
2 cups (600 grams) Damson plum help move strips.) Create
preserves additional strips as needed
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting by rerolling excess dough
to ⅛-inch thickness between
1. In the work bowl of a food processor, lightly floured sheets of wax
combine flours, granulated sugar, brown paper. (This is a delicate dough.
sugar, orange zest, salt, cinnamon, baking If it tears while moving, simply press
powder, ginger, nutmeg, and cloves; pulse it back together; alternatively, reroll,
until well combined, stopping to scrape cut, and refrigerate dough, and try
sides of bowl. Add cold butter, and pulse again.) Refrigerate assembled tart for
until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. 20 minutes.
Add egg and vanilla bean paste; pulse just 8. Bake until crust is golden brown and
until dough comes together, stopping set and filling is starting to bubble, 30 to
to scrape sides of bowl. (Mixture should 35 minutes. Let cool completely in pan on
be moist but not sticky and should hold a wire rack. Remove from pan. Dust with
together when pinched.) Turn out dough confectioners’ sugar just before serving.
onto a clean surface; reserve one-third of
dough (about 264 grams), and cover with
plastic wrap.
2. Spray a 9½-inch fluted round
removable-bottom tart pan with baking
spray with flour. Press remaining dough

november | december 2020 80

81 bake from scratch
POACHED PEAR BUTTERMILK 18 minutes. Remove from heat; pour wine instant-read thermometer inserted in
TART mixture over pears in bowl; place a sheet center registers 170°F (76°C) to 175°F
Makes 1 (9½-inch) tart of plastic wrap directly on surface to keep (79°C), 25 to 28 minutes. Let cool
pears submerged, and refrigerate for at completely on baking sheet on a wire
A sophisticated twist on buttermilk chess pie, least 1 hour. rack. Remove from tart pan. Before
this stunning tart combines a tangy, creamy 3. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray serving, garnish with pistachios, almonds,
buttermilk filling with a wine-poached pear a 9½-inch fluted round removable-bottom and confectioners’ sugar, if desired.
topping. Our ginger-scented shortcrust tart pan with baking spray with flour.
pastry dough and poached pears can be made 4. Let pear wine mixture stand at room GINGER SHORTCRUST PASTRY
a day ahead of time offering a streamlined temperature until ready to use. Makes 1 (9½-inch) crust
process for the busy baker. 5. Let Ginger Shortcrust Pastry stand at
room temperature until softened, about 1¾ cups (219 grams) all-purpose flour
1 (750-ml) bottle (750 grams) fruity 15 minutes. On a lightly floured surface, ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar
white wine, such as pinot grigio roll dough into a 12-inch circle (about 1½ teaspoons (3 grams) ground ginger
2½ cups (500 grams) granulated sugar, ⅛ inch thick), flouring rolling pin and work ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
divided surface as needed; trim dough slightly so ½ cup (113 grams) cold unsalted butter,
2 cups (480 grams) water circle has clean edges. Transfer dough to cubed
3 tablespoons (45 grams) fresh lemon prepared pan, pressing into bottom and up 1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten
juice sides; fold any overhanging dough inside,
2 (2½- to 3-inch) cinnamon sticks and press to create a double thickness. (It’s 1. In the work bowl of a food processor,
6 whole cloves OK if dough tears in spots; just press back place flour, sugar, ginger, and salt; pulse
2 medium firm ripe Bartlett pears together.) Using a small sharp knife, trim until combined. Add cold butter, and pulse
(404 grams), peeled, halved, dough flush with sides of tart pan. Pinch until mixture resembles coarse crumbs.
stemmed, and cored sides lightly so dough sits about ⅛ inch Add egg, and pulse just until dough comes
Ginger Shortcrust Pastry (recipe follows) above top edge of pan; use any extra dough together, stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
2 tablespoons (16 grams) all-purpose to patch thinner spots in crust. Cover and (Mixture should be moist but not sticky
flour freeze for 15 minutes. and should hold together when pinched.)
¼ teaspoon kosher salt 6. Place tart pan on a parchment-lined 2. Turn out dough, and shape into a 7-inch
⅔ cup (160 grams) whole buttermilk, rimmed baking sheet. Top frozen dough disk. Wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate
room temperature with a sheet of parchment paper, letting for at least 25 minutes. •
⅓ cup (80 grams) heavy whipping ends extend over edges of tart pan. Add
cream, room temperature pie weights.
¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, 7. Bake until edges are lightly golden, 15 to
melted and cooled for 5 minutes 20 minutes, rotating pan halfway through
1 large egg (50 grams), room baking. Carefully remove parchment and
temperature weights. Bake until crust is dry and set,
1 large egg yolk (19 grams), room about 5 minutes more. Let cool completely
temperature on baking sheet on a wire rack.
2 teaspoons (12 grams) vanilla bean paste 8. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk
Garnish: finely chopped lightly toasted together flour, salt, and remaining
pistachios, sliced lightly toasted ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar by
almonds, confectioners’ sugar hand. Add buttermilk, cream, melted
butter, egg, egg yolk, and vanilla bean
1. In a large saucepan, combine wine, paste; using the whisk attachment, beat
2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar, at medium speed until smooth and well
2 cups (480 grams) water, lemon juice, combined, stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
cinnamon sticks, and cloves. Bring to a boil 9. Using a slotted spoon, remove pear
over medium-high heat; reduce heat to halves from wine mixture. Pat pears dry,
medium-low, and simmer for 5 minutes. and slice each half lengthwise into
Add pears; place a round of parchment 8 wedges. Arrange wedges in a tight
paper on surface of wine mixture, overlapping circular pattern along
pressing down slightly to help keep edge of prepared crust. Pour
pears submerged. Simmer, turning pears buttermilk mixture in center of
occasionally, until pears are fork-tender, crust, shaking pan gently to evenly
25 to 40 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, distribute between pears. (Pan will
transfer pears to a medium heatproof bowl. be quite full but will not overflow
2. Discard cinnamon sticks and cloves. during baking.)
Increase heat to medium-high; cook wine 10. Bake until filling is just set (it
mixture until reduced to 3 cups, 15 to may still jiggle in center) and an
 ADVERTISING

Gluten-Free Hummingbird Cake

OUR TWELFTH LESSON

IN THE BETTER BAKING
ACADEMY WITH BOB’S
RED MILL: GLUTEN-FREE
HUMMINGBIRD CAKE
Bob’s Red Mill is the official flour of the Bake
from Scratch test kitchen and our partner in
an amazing baking education program. For
success in the kitchen, using premium flour
is vital when creating delicious baked goods.
But it’s also crucial to master some essential
baking techniques. We joined forces with
Bob’s Red Mill to ensure you have both
key ingredients for success through
the Better Baking Academy. In our
12th lesson, we conclude our first
year of the academy with a gluten-
free primer, transforming three
of our most popular recipes with
the aid of Bob’s Red Mill Gluten Free
1-to-1 Baking Flour. Gingerbread Cookie
Cheesecake Bars, Caramelized Banana
Bread, and Hummingbird Cake all receive
the gluten-free treatment, accompanied by
helpful techniques.
 ADVERTISING

A BREAKDOWN OF BOB’S RED MILL

GLUTEN FREE 1-TO-1 BAKING FLOUR
SWEET RICE AND BROWN RICE FLOUR:
These two forms of rice flour are often used in gluten-
Bob’s Red Mill’s signature gluten-free free baking because the glutinous structure of rice
helps batters and doughs gel into a homogeneous
blend has a lot of wonderful things going mixture. Sweet rice flour is much finer than traditional
on—here’s a little info on the some of the white rice flour and is ground from short-grain rice, like
the kind used in sushi. Sweet rice flour is, thus, more
key ingredients featured in the blend glutinous and absorbent, making it a fantastic binder.
In addition, its mild sweet flavor and tender qualities
make moister, sweeter baked goods. Brown rice flour
has a stronger, nuttier flavor but exhibits similar binding
characteristics as the sweet rice flour. A common
complaint for rice flour is its gritty texture. Bob’s Red
Mill sidesteps this problem by using a stone-ground
milling process, which grinds the rice flour extra-fine
for a smooth, powdery finish.

SORGHUM FLOUR: With a mild flavor that won’t

overpower your baked goods and a high protein
level, sorghum flour is an excellent gluten-free
flour. A very nutritious grain, sorghum has around
11% protein and 8% fiber, giving your baked goods
structure and stability. Griddle cake and flapjack
recipes featuring sorghum flour have been around
since the 1800s, so it’s not a new addition to the
baking scene. Like rice flour, sorghum flour is very
fine, mimicking the texture of traditional flour well.

POTATO STARCH, TAPIOCA STARCH, AND

XANTHAN GUM: The previous flours mentioned
all work well in gluten-free baking, but they
require a little help from starches to mimic gluten’s
elasticity. A magical trio, potato starch, tapioca
starch, and xanthan gum all provide binding power to
the gluten-free flours. While made from the potato,
potato starch has a very neutral flavor and will keep
your baked goods tender. Tapioca starch, made
from the cassava root, has a velvety texture and
helps lighten your baked goods, keeping them from
getting gummy. A favorite dupe for gluten, xanthan
gum is a plant-based thickener, emulsifier, and
all-around texture-booster. Too much of any one of
these ingredients can compromise the texture and
taste of your baked good, but a balanced blend of all
three gives you the best of all worlds.
 ADVERTISING

GLUTEN-FREE HUMMINGBIRD 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to
CAKE 3 (8-inch) round cake pans. Line bottoms of overnight before serving.
Makes 1 (8-inch) cake pans with parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl, sift together flour, sugar, CREAM CHEESE FROSTING
One of our most popular recipes of all time, cinnamon, baking soda, salt, and nutmeg; stir Makes about 6 cups
our Hummingbird Cake is a classic Southern in pecans.
layer cake, packing pineapple, banana, 3. In a small bowl, stir together oil, banana, 2 (8-ounce) packages (454 grams)
and pecans under a dreamy Cream Cheese eggs, and vanilla. Add oil mixture to flour cream cheese, softened
Frosting. This gluten-free version boasts the mixture, stirring just until moistened. Fold in ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, softened
same iconic tropical flavor, tender texture, pineapple. Divide batter among prepared pans. 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
and creamy frosting. The best part? The only 4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center 1 (2-pound) package (907 grams)
change to the original recipe is a simple swap comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool confectioners’ sugar
of Bob’s Red Mill Gluten Free 1-to-1 Baking in pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans,
Flour for all-purpose flour. and let cool completely on wire racks. 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
5. Place a cooled cake layer on a cake plate. paddle attachment, beat cream cheese and
3 cups (444 grams) Bob’s Red Mill Place 1 cup (250 grams) Cream Cheese butter at medium-low speed until smooth and
Gluten Free 1-to-1 Baking Flour Frosting in a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch creamy, about 1 minute. Add vanilla, beating
1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar round piping tip. (Alternatively, cut a ½-inch until combined. With mixer on low speed,
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon opening in tip of pastry bag.) Pipe around gradually add confectioners’ sugar, beating
¾ teaspoon (3.75 grams) baking soda edge of cake layer. Spread half of Pineapple- until combined. Increase mixer speed to
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt Pecan Filling (about 300 grams) on layer medium, and beat until fluffy, about 1 minute.
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg inside piped border. Top with second cake
½ cup (57 grams) chopped toasted pecans layer, and pipe border around edge. Spread PINEAPPLE-PECAN FILLING
1 cup (224 grams) canola oil remaining Pineapple-Pecan Filling inside piped Makes 2½ cups
¾ cup (170 grams) mashed ripe banana border. Top with remaining cake layer. Spread
(about 2 medium bananas) a thin layer of Cream Cheese Frosting on 2 cups (500 grams) Cream Cheese
3 large eggs (150 grams), room top and sides of cake to create a crumb coat. Frosting (recipe precedes)
temperature Refrigerate until filling is set, 30 to ½ cup (57 grams) finely chopped toasted
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract 45 minutes. Cover and refrigerate remaining pecans
1 cup (200 grams) chopped fresh frosting. ⅓ cup (67 grams) finely chopped fresh
pineapple 6. Using a spatula, fold remaining frosting pineapple, patted dry
4 cups (1,000 grams) Cream Cheese until smooth and workable. Spread frosting
Frosting (recipe follows) on top and lightly on sides of cake. Using 1. In a medium bowl, gently stir together
Pineapple-Pecan Filling (recipe follows) a bench scraper, smooth edges until Cream Cheese Frosting, pecans, and
desired amount of frosting is left. Cover pineapple until combined.
 ADVERTISING

FROSTING 411

1. Place a cooled cake layer on a cake you place your second cake layer on top 6. Using a spatula, fold remaining
plate. Place 1 cup (250 grams) Cream of the first, press it down lightly on top to frosting until smooth and workable. This
Cheese Frosting in a pastry bag fitted with make sure everything is even and level. just ensures that the frosting is an even
a ½-inch round piping tip. (Alternatively, 4. Spread a thin layer of Cream Cheese consistency and smooth before working
cut a ½-inch opening in tip of pastry bag.) Frosting on top and sides of cake to create with it on the cake.
Pipe a border around edge of cake layer. a crumb coat. A crumb coat is the baker’s 7. Spread frosting on top and lightly on
Think of this piped border as a sweet dam. term for a thin coat of frosting spread over sides of cake. Using a bench scraper,
This border will keep your filling from a cake that is then refrigerated before smooth edges until desired amount of
spilling out and seeping into the frosting on being frosted with the final, thicker layer frosting is left. Use an offset spatula or
the outside of the cake. of frosting. The crumb coat helps keep any straight-sided icing spatula to apply the
2. Spread half of Pineapple-Pecan Filling crumbs from getting into the final coat and frosting in generous swaths. Then switch to
on layer inside piped border. You want to fills any gaps where the border missed. a bench scraper to smooth and scrape down
smooth down the filling slightly so your 5. Refrigerate until filling is set, 30 to the sides. The bench scraper will leave the
cake layers will stack evenly. Our tools of 45 minutes. Cover and refrigerate frosting in an even layer all the way around,
choice? An offset spatula or a straight- remaining frosting. Chilling your cake as well as make the sides straight.
sided icing spatula. allows the filling to set and helps firm up 8. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours
3. Top with second cake layer, and pipe the crumb coat, making it easier to frost. or up to overnight before serving. A last chill
a border around edge. Spread remaining You also need to refrigerate your frosting, in the refrigerator will further set up your
Pineapple-Pecan Filling inside piped as it will get too soft at room temperature smooth frosting and pineapple-rich filling.
border. Top with remaining cake layer. As while the cake chills.

JOIN THE BETTER BAKING ACADEMY!

Love what you see? Join the Better Baking Academy today to keep up with each month of recipes and lessons.
Go to bakefromscratch.com/better-baking-academy to enroll.
 ’Twas the Night before

Christmas

PHOTOGRAPHY BY
WILLIAM DICKEY
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY
TRICIA MANZANERO
FOOD STYLING BY VANESSA ROCCHIO
STYLING BY LUCY FINNEY
. . . WHEN ALL THROUGH THE HOUSE, NOT
A CREATURE WAS STIRRING, NOT EVEN A
MOUSE. THAT INCLUDES YOU, BUSY BAKER.
WHY? BECAUSE YOUR HOLIDAY BRUNCH
IS ALREADY PREPPED AND WAITING IN
THE REFRIGERATOR. COME THAT BRIGHT
CHRISTMAS MORN, YOU CAN DEVOTE
PRECIOUS TIME TO ENJOYING FAMILY AND
PRESENTS, NOT MIXING DOUGH. THEN,
WHEN THE MERRY REVELERS BECOME
HUNGRY, PREHEAT YOUR OVEN—
PULL-APART MILK BREAD, EGGNOG ROLLS,
AND PEPPERMINT SCONES AWAIT.
Pull-Apart Milk Bread Wreath
page 94
White Chocolate-Peppermint Scones
page 96

november | december 2020 90

Eggnog Sweet Rolls
page 95
White Chocolate-Peppermint Scones
page 96

november | december 2020 92

93 bake from scratch
PULL-APART MILK BREAD just until combined, stopping to scrape Note: To use the windowpane test to check
WREATH sides of bowl. dough for proper gluten development, lightly
Makes 20 rolls 4. Switch to the dough hook attachment. flour hands and pinch off (don’t tear) a small
Beat at low speed for 3 minutes. Increase piece of dough. Slowly pull the dough out
Our savory pull-apart bread wreath features mixer speed to medium-low, and beat from the center. If the dough is ready, you
the most versatile of doughs, Japanese milk until a soft, smooth dough forms, 6 to will be able to stretch it until it’s thin and
bread—a tender enriched dough that receives 8 minutes, stopping to scrape sides translucent like a windowpane. If the dough
a moist boost from tangzhong, or Milk Roux. of bowl; add up to remaining ¼ cup tears, it’s not quite ready. Beat for 1 minute,
Packed with dill, butter, and garlic powder, (32 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon (8 grams) and test again.
the bread dough is mixed, proofed, shaped, at a time, if dough is too sticky. Check
and assembled the day before. The day of, dough for proper gluten development MILK ROUX
only a final proof and short bake remains! using the windowpane test. (See Note.) Makes about ⅓ cup
Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free
⅔ cup (160 grams) plus 1 tablespoon place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, ⅓ cup (80 grams) whole milk
(15 grams) whole milk, room 40 minutes to 1 hour. 2 tablespoons (16 grams) bread flour
temperature and divided 5. Line a baking sheet with parchment
4 tablespoons (48 grams) granulated paper. Place a 1¾-inch round metal cutter 1. In a small saucepan, whisk together milk
sugar, divided in center of prepared pan. and flour. Cook over medium-low heat,
1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) 6. Punch down dough; let stand for whisking constantly, until thickened, an
active dry yeast* 5 minutes. Divide dough into 20 portions instant-read thermometer registers 149°F
Milk Roux (recipe follows), room temperature (about 38 grams each). Roll each portion (65°C), and whisk leaves lines on bottom
3 to 3¼ cups (381 to 413 grams) bread flour into a ball, pinching any seams closed if of pan. Transfer to a small bowl, and let
¼ cup (57 grams) plus 2 tablespoons needed. Place 6 dough balls in a circle cool completely before using.
(28 grams) unsalted butter, melted around cutter, leaving a ¼-inch gap
and divided between dough balls and cutter. Place
2 large eggs (100 grams), room remaining dough balls, evenly spaced and
temperature and divided almost touching, outside first circle. Cover
3 tablespoons (8 grams) lightly packed and refrigerate overnight.
chopped fresh dill
2¼ teaspoons (6.75 grams) kosher salt
7. Let rolls rise, covered, in a warm, draft-
free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in
Make-Ahead Timeline
1 teaspoon (3 grams) garlic powder size and dough holds an indentation when 1 DAY BEFORE:
Everything bagel seasoning, for sprinkling poked, 1 to 2 hours. • Make dough.
Garnish: chopped fresh dill 8. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). • Proof dough, 40 minutes to 1 hour.
9. In a small bowl, whisk together • Divide dough and shape into a
1. In a small microwave-safe bowl, heat remaining 1 egg (50 grams) and remaining wreath.
⅔ cup (160 grams) milk on high in 1 tablespoon (15 grams) milk. • Cover and refrigerate overnight.
10-second intervals until an instant-read 10. Gently remove cutter from center of
thermometer registers 110°F (43°C) to pan; brush egg wash on top of dough. DAY OF:
115°F (46°C). 11. Bake until golden brown and an instant- • Proof dough, 1 to 2 hours.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the read thermometer inserted in center • Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
paddle attachment, whisk together warm milk, registers at least 190°F (88°C), 15 to • Brush dough with egg wash.
1 tablespoon (12 grams) sugar, and yeast. Let 18 minutes. Brush tops of warm rolls • Bake for 15 to 18 minutes.
stand until foamy, about 10 minutes. with remaining 2 tablespoons (28 grams) • Brush with butter; sprinkle with
3. Add Milk Roux, 3 cups (381 grams) melted butter. Sprinkle with everything
seasoning and dill.
flour, ¼ cup (57 grams) melted butter, bagel seasoning. Garnish with dill, if
1 egg (50 grams), dill, salt, garlic powder, desired. Serve immediately. • Enjoy!
and remaining 3 tablespoons (36 grams)
sugar to yeast mixture; beat at low speed *We used Red Star® Active Dry Yeast.
 EGGNOG SWEET ROLLS for proper gluten development using the will be able to stretch it until it’s thin and
Makes 12 rolls windowpane test. (See Note.) translucent like a windowpane. If the dough
4. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. tears, it’s not quite ready. Beat for 1 minute,
Regular sweet rolls will do for any day—for Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. and test again.
this special day, take it up a notch with our Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free
Eggnog Sweet Rolls. You’ll mix, proof, fill, and place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, PRO TIP
shape your sweet rolls the night before. Then, 40 minutes to 1 hour. To help next-day rolls proof, especially
before you dig into your presents, pull the 5. Spray a 13x9-inch baking pan with if your house tends to be quite cool,
rolls out for a final proof. While the rolls bake, cooking spray. Line pan with parchment uncover refrigerated rolls and place
you can quickly whisk together your Eggnog- paper, letting excess extend over sides of in a cold oven with a small saucepan
Rum Glaze. If tiny tots or alcohol-abstainers pan. of boiling water to create a warm,
are expected at the table, you can replace the 6. In a small bowl, stir together brown steamy environment. (Keep oven
rum in the glaze with 1½ tablespoons sugar, cinnamon, remaining ½ teaspoon door closed.) Allow rolls to proof until
(22.5 grams) water. (1 gram) nutmeg, and remaining nearly doubled in size and dough holds
¼ teaspoon salt. an indentation when poked. Rewarm
3½ to 4 cups (438 to 500 grams) 7. Lightly punch down dough. Cover and let
hot water as needed.
all-purpose flour, divided stand for 5 minutes. Turn out dough onto
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar a lightly floured surface, and roll into an EGGNOG-RUM GLAZE
2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) instant yeast 18x12-inch rectangle. Using a large offset Makes about 1 cup
2¼ teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt, spatula, spread remaining ¼ cup (57 grams)
divided butter onto dough, leaving a ½-inch border 2½ cups (300 grams) confectioners’ sugar
¾ teaspoon (1 gram) ground nutmeg, on one long side. Sprinkle brown sugar 3 tablespoons (45 grams) prepared
divided mixture over butter. Starting with long side eggnog
1¼ cups (300 grams) prepared eggnog opposite border, roll up dough, jelly roll 1½ tablespoons (22.5 grams) spiced rum
¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, room style, pinching seam to seal. Gently shape 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted
temperature* and divided to 18 inches long and more even thickness, butter, melted
1 large egg (50 grams), room if necessary. Using a serrated knife, slice ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
temperature log into 12 rolls (about 1½ inches thick),
¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed light trimming edges slightly if necessary. Place 1. In a medium bowl, stir together all
brown sugar rolls, cut side down, in prepared pan. Cover ingredients until smooth and well combined.
1½ tablespoons (9 grams) ground and refrigerate overnight. Use immediately.
cinnamon 8. Let rolls rise, covered, in a warm,
Eggnog-Rum Glaze (recipe follows) draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until
nearly doubled in size and dough holds
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with an indentation when poked, 3 to 4 hours.
the paddle attachment, beat 1½ cups (See PRO TIP.)
(188 grams) flour, granulated sugar, yeast, 9. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
2 teaspoons (6 grams) salt, and ¼ teaspoon 10. Bake until rolls are lightly golden and
nutmeg at low speed just until combined. an instant-read thermometer inserted
2. In a medium saucepan, heat eggnog and in center registers 190°F (88°C), 15 to
½ cup (113 grams) butter over medium 20 minutes, loosely covering with foil to Make-Ahead Timeline
heat until an instant-read thermometer prevent excess browning, if necessary. Let
registers 120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C). cool in pan for 10 minutes. Using excess 1 DAY BEFORE:
Add warm eggnog mixture to flour parchment as handles, remove from pan. • Make dough.
mixture; beat at medium-low speed for Spread Eggnog-Rum Glaze onto warm • Proof dough, 40 minutes to 1 hour.
2 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of rolls. Serve warm. • Roll out, fill, and cut dough into rolls.
bowl. Add egg; beat at medium speed • Place in prepared pan, and refrigerate
for 2 minutes. With mixer on low speed, *Unlike softened butter, room temperature overnight.
gradually add 2 cups (250 grams) flour, butter should provide no resistance when
beating just until combined and stopping pressed with a finger. At this point, the butter DAY OF:
to scrape sides of bowl. is softened enough to easily melt as well as • Proof dough, 3 to 4 hours.
3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. spread over dough. • Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
Beat at medium-low speed until a soft, • Bake for 15 to 20 minutes.
elastic dough forms, 6 to 10 minutes, Note: To use the windowpane test to check • Let cool in pan for 10 minutes.
stopping to scrape sides of bowl and dough for proper gluten development, lightly • Make Eggnog-Rum Glaze.
dough hook; add up to remaining ½ cup flour hands and pinch off (don’t tear) a small • Spread glaze onto rolls.
(62 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon (8 grams) at piece of dough. Slowly pull the dough out • Enjoy!
a time, if dough is too sticky. Check dough from the center. If the dough is ready, you

95 bake from scratch

WHITE CHOCOLATE- 3. In a small bowl, stir together cold VANILLA GLAZE
PEPPERMINT SCONES cream, vanilla bean paste, and peppermint Makes about ⅓ cup
Makes 6 scones extract. Gradually add cream mixture to
flour mixture, stirring with a fork until dry ⅔ cup (80 grams) confectioners’ sugar
Perhaps our easiest and most straight- ingredients are moistened. Gently stir in 2½ tablespoons (37.5 grams) heavy
forward make-ahead recipe, these white chocolate and candies. (Dough will whipping cream
peppermint-and-white chocolate scones offer be quite crumbly or shaggy in parts.) ½ teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla bean paste
a fabulously festive breakfast with minimal 4. Turn out dough onto a clean surface; ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
effort. On Christmas Eve, you can pull gently knead 8 to 10 times to bring dough
together the dough in a flash before popping together. Roll or pat dough into a 7-inch 1. In a small bowl, stir together all
it into the freezer. The morning of, it’ll go circle (about 1 inch thick), very lightly ingredients until smooth and well
from freezer directly to preheated oven, with flouring surface as needed to prevent combined. Use immediately.
only a brush of cream in between. Then, sticking; press together any cracks that
you’re only a quick Vanilla Glaze drizzle away form, if necessary. Using a bench scraper
from your fastest, sweetest holiday breakfast. or a thin-bladed knife, cut circle into
6 wedges; place wedges at least 2 inches
2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour apart on prepared pan. Wrap pan tightly
¼
2
cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder
with plastic wrap, and freeze overnight.
5. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
Make-Ahead Timeline
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt 6. Brush tops of scones with cream; 1 DAY BEFORE:
¼ cup (57 grams) cold unsalted butter, sprinkle with sparkling sugar. • Make dough.
cubed 7. Bake until lightly golden and a wooden • Cut into wedges, and place on pan.
¾ cup (180 grams) cold heavy whipping pick inserted in center comes out clean, • Wrap pan tightly, and freeze
cream, plus more for brushing 22 to 27 minutes. overnight.
1 teaspoon (6 grams) vanilla bean paste 8. Spoon Vanilla Glaze into a small
½ teaspoon (2 grams) peppermint pastry or resealable plastic bag; cut a DAY OF:
extract* ¼-inch opening in tip or corner. Drizzle • Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
3 ounces (85 grams) white chocolate*, glaze onto scones as desired. Garnish with • Brush scones with cream; sprinkle
finely chopped (about ½ cup) candies, if desired. Serve warm or at room with sparkling sugar.
½ cup (64 grams) crushed soft temperature. • Bake for 22 to 27 minutes.
peppermint candies* • Make Vanilla Glaze.
White sparkling sugar, for sprinkling *We used Nielsen-Massey Pure Peppermint • Drizzle glaze onto baked scones.
Vanilla Glaze (recipe follows) Extract and Ghirardelli White Chocolate
• Enjoy!
Garnish: crushed soft peppermint candies Baking Bars. Do not substitute hard
peppermint candies.
1. Line a baking sheet with parchment
paper.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour,
granulated sugar, baking powder, and salt.
Using a pastry blender or 2 forks, cut in
cold butter until mixture resembles coarse
crumbs.
signed, Sealed
delivered IN THE YEAR OF SOCIAL DISTANCING,
QUARANTINES, AND TRAVEL BANS, NEVER
HAS A SWEET CARE PACKAGE TO OR FROM
A LOVED ONE BEEN MORE PRECIOUS. THIS
HOLIDAY SEASON, EMBRACE THE POWER
OF THE POSTAL SERVICE AND BAKE ONE
OF THESE FOUR DESSERTS DESIGNED TO
WITHSTAND THE RIGORS OF SHIPPING—
WITHOUT SACRIFICING LOOKS OR FLAVOR.R.
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY TRICIA MANZANERO
STYLING BY DOROTHY WALTON
 Chocolate-Peanut
Butter-Pistachio Biscotti
page 105

PACKAGE YOUR
CHOCOLATE-
PEANUT BUTTER-
PISTACHIO BISCOTTI:
In a large tin or bakery box lined
with parchment paper, line up
biscotti in rows, packing as tightly
as you can. If you have room to
stack another row of biscotti, place
a piece of parchment paper or wax
paper between the two layers for
protection.

99 bake from scratch

 PACKAGE YOUR SLICE-AND-BAKE
HOLIDAY CONFETTI COOKIES:
Fill a large tin or bakery box with a thin layer of
crumpled wax paper, crinkle paper, or bubble wrap. Stack
your cookies three or four at a time in plastic bags or muffin
liners on top of the insulated layer. If there are any gaps
or empty spaces between the stacks, fill them with more
crumpled wax paper, crinkle paper, or bubble wrap. Seal
container.

Slice-and-Bake Holiday
Confetti Cookies
page 103
 PACKAGE YOUR
CHOCOLATE
DULCE DE LECHE BARS:
Wrap the individual bars in
parchment paper, plastic wrap, or
wax paper, fastened with twine or
tape if necessary. Place wrapped bars
in a tin or bakery box, packing them
tightly together so there is little
wiggle room.

Chocolate-Dulce de
Leche Bars
page 103

101 bake from scratch

Pearl Sugar Ginger Cookies
page 104

PACKAGE YOUR
PEARL SUGAR
GINGER COOKIES:
Stack your cookies four to six at
a time in cylindrical plastic bags,
sealing with a twist tie or twine. In
a large tin or bakery box, place a
layer of crumpled wax paper, crinkle
paper, packing peanuts, or bubble
wrap. Place sealed bags on top of
insulated layer, filling any gaps or
empty spaces with more crumpled
wax paper, crinkle paper, packing
peanuts, or bubble wrap.
Seal container.
 SLICE-AND-BAKE HOLIDAY 5. Bake, one batch at a time, until edges are
CONFETTI COOKIES lightly golden, about 15 minutes. Let cool
Makes about 50 cookies on pan for 5 minutes. Using a large offset or
flat metal spatula, remove from pan, and let
Slice-and-bake cookies are easy to make and
S cool completely on wire racks. Store in an
eeasier to ship. Packed with holiday nonpareils airtight container for up to 1 week.
and glistening with sparkling sugar, this recipe
STEP ONE:: B
BOX
OX
OX IITT UP
UP. makes enough to fill several care packages. *We used Heilala Pure Vanilla Extract.
Buy a box bigger than your baked
goods package–at least 2 inches 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, Note: Let dough that has been refrigerated
greater in length, width, and height. softened for longer time spans stand at room
Use packing peanuts, bubble wrap, or ⅔ cup (133 grams) granulated sugar temperature until slightly softened and easier
brown packing paper to stuff a nice 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract* to slice, 15 to 30 minutes.
2-inch layer in the bottom of your ½ teaspoon (2 grams) almond extract
box. Place your package of treats in 2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour CHOCOLATE-DULCE DE LECHE
the center of the box, and fill up any ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt BARS
remaining space with more packing ⅓ cup (70 grams) holiday nonpareils Makes 24 bars
peanuts, bubble wrap, or packing ½ cup (112 grams) white sparkling sugar,
paper. This creates an extra layer of plus more for sprinkling Based on the classic caramelitas, these
insulation and cushion from outside 1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten buttery, nutty oat bars have a rich chocolate
weather and rough handling. filling punctuated by dulce de leche. With
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a firm streusel-like base and topping
STEP TWO: TAPE IT UP. the paddle attachment, beat butter and protecting the gooey middle, these bars
It may seem over the top, but taping granulated sugar at medium speed until travel exceptionally well and will be equally
over all the slits of the mailing box creamy, 2 to 3 minutes, stopping to scrape well-received.
will keep outside air from getting to sides of bowl. Beat in extracts.
your goodies. The less air exposure, 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together 1¼ cups (156 grams) plus 1 tablespoon
the better the taste. Bonus points: flour and salt. With mixer on low speed, (8 grams) all-purpose flour, divided
slap a “fragile” sticker onto your gradually add flour mixture to butter 1 cup (90 grams) quick-cooking oats
package so handlers know your box mixture, beating until combined. Fold in ¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed light
contains precious cargo. nonpareils. (Dough will be rather soft at brown sugar
this point.) Divide dough in half. Shape ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter,
STEP THREE: MAIL IT OUT. each half into a 7-inch-long log (about melted and cooled for 5 minutes
All of these goodies stay relatively 2 inches thick). Wrap each log in plastic 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) tightly packed
fresh for a week, so most of them wrap; holding ends of plastic wrap, roll orange zest
can be mailed out with regular five- log over work surface, creating a more ½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda
day shipping; just double-check with rounded shape. Refrigerate until firm, ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
your carrier service to make sure they about 2 hours. (See Note.) ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cinnamon
can get your cookies to the intended 3. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Line ¼ teaspoon ground cloves
recipient in time. If it’ll be too long, go 2 to 3 rimmed baking sheets with ⅔ cup (75 grams) chopped toasted
ahead and spring for priority mail or parchment paper. pecans
two-day shipping. You don’t want your 4. In a large rimmed baking dish or plate, ¾ cup (128 grams) roughly chopped
hard work arriving stale! place sparkling sugar. Working with one 66% cacao dark chocolate*, divided
dough log at a time, unwrap log, and brush ¾ cup (128 grams) roughly chopped
outside with egg; roll in sparkling sugar. milk chocolate*, divided
Working in batches and using a serrated ¾ cup (224 grams) dulce de leche
knife, cut logs crosswise into ¼-inch-thick Garnish: flaked sea salt
rounds, and place 1 to 1¼ inches apart on
prepared pans; flatten rounds slightly so 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray
they lay flush on baking sheet. (If dough a 9-inch square baking pan with cooking
rounds crack when flattening, simply press spray. Line pan with parchment paper,
and smooth back together.) Sprinkle tops letting excess extend over sides of pan.
with sparkling sugar. 2. In a large bowl, stir together 1¼ cups
(156 grams) flour, oats, brown sugar, ¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light
melted butter, orange zest, baking soda, brown sugar
kosher salt, cinnamon, and cloves until 1 teaspoon (3 grams) lemon zest
well combined. Press half of dough (about ⅓ cup (113 grams) molasses (not
293 grams) into bottom of prepared pan. blackstrap)
3. Bake until lightly golden around edges, 1 large egg (50 grams), room
about 10 minutes. Let cool in pan on a wire temperature
rack for 20 minutes. Leave oven on. 2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour
4. Sprinkle pecans, ½ cup (85 grams) dark 2 teaspoons (4 grams) ground ginger
chocolate, and ½ cup (85 grams) milk 1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking soda
chocolate onto prepared crust. 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
5. In a small microwave-safe bowl, stir ¾ teaspoon (1.5 grams) ground cinnamon
together dulce de leche and remaining ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cardamom
1 tablespoon (8 grams) flour. Heat on high ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cloves
in 10-second intervals, stirring between ½ cup (104 grams) Swedish pearl sugar
each, until mixture can be drizzled from
a spoon. Drizzle mixture onto pecans and 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line
chocolate in pan, leaving a ½-inch border 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment MATERIALS
around edges of pan. Crumble remaining paper. TO HAVE ON HAND
dough evenly over dulce de leche layer. 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
(It’s OK if some peeks through.) Top with the paddle attachment, beat butter, COOKIE TIN
evenly with remaining ¼ cup (43 grams) granulated sugar, brown sugar, and lemon BAKERY BOX
dark chocolate and remaining ¼ cup zest at medium speed until fluffy, 2 to
(43 grams) milk chocolate. 3 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of PLASTIC WRAP
6. Bake until chocolate is melted and bowl. Add molasses and egg; beat until well KITCHEN TWINE
crumble layer starts to turn golden brown, combined, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. PLASTIC BAGS
15 to 20 minutes. Let cool completely in 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together
pan on a wire rack. Using excess parchment flour, ginger, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, MUFFIN LINERS
as handles, remove from pan. Using a cardamom, and cloves. Add flour mixture WAX PAPER
serrated knife, cut into bars. Garnish with to butter mixture all at once; beat at low PARCHMENT PAPER
sea salt, if desired. Store in an airtight speed until combined, stopping to scrape
container for up to 1 week. sides of bowl. BUBBLE WRAP
4. In a small shallow bowl, place pearl sugar. PACKING PEANUTS
*We used Valrhona Caraïbe 66% Cacao Dark 5. Using a 1½-tablespoon spring-loaded BROWN PACKING PAPER
Chocolate Baking Féves and Callebaut Milk scoop, scoop dough (about 30 grams
Chocolate Baking Blocks. each), and roll into balls. Roll dough balls in PACKING TAPE
pearl sugar (see Note), and place 1¾ to SHIPPING BOX
PEARL SUGAR GINGER 2 inches apart on prepared pans.
COOKIES 6. Bake, one batch at a time, until cookies
Makes about 24 cookies appear cracked and edges are just set but
centers look slightly underdone, about
Pearl sugar saves the day again with these 10 minutes. Let cool on pan for 4 minutes.
beautiful, polka-dotted ginger cookies. Acting Remove from pan, and let cool completely
as gorgeous decoration and a protective on wire racks. Store in an airtight container
crunchy layer, pearl sugar helps make sure for up to 1 week.
the cookies arrive to your far-flung loved
ones in serious style. The molasses also helps Note: If pearl sugar isn’t sticking as well,
the cookies stay fresher for longer, as the lightly dampen hands with water before
hygroscopic sugar keeps them moist. rolling dough into balls and coating in sugar.

½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter,

softened
¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar

november | december 2020 104

 CHOCOLATE-PEANUT BUTTER-PISTACHIO BISCOTTI
Makes about 36 biscotti

Crisp biscotti is a shipping dream, with a long shelf life and a rigid shape that
can handle the long, bumpy road ahead. Our chocolate-peanut butter combo
is made all the more decadent by the addition of yuletide-green pistachios.
Consider mailing these babies with your favorite brand of coffee—the two are
natural companions and make for a complete package.

6 ounces (170 grams) 64% cacao semisweet chocolate*, finely chopped

and divided
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, softened
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar
2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract
1¾ cups (219 grams) all-purpose flour
¾ cup (70 grams) Dutch process cocoa powder, sifted
1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (1 gram) instant espresso powder*
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt
½ cup (82 grams) peanut butter chips
½ cup (66 grams) roasted pistachios, roughly chopped

1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with

parchment paper.
2. In the top of a double boiler, place 4 ounces (113 grams) chocolate.
Cook over simmering water, stirring frequently, until melted and smooth.
Remove from heat; set aside.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat
butter and sugars at medium speed until fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes, stopping
to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs and vanilla; beat until well combined,
stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add melted chocolate, beating until well
combined.
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, cocoa, baking powder, espresso
powder, and salt. With mixer on low speed, gradually add flour mixture to
butter mixture, beating just until combined and stopping to scrape sides
of bowl. Fold in peanut butter chips, pistachios, and remaining 2 ounces
(57 grams) chocolate.
5. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and divide in half.
Shape each half into a 9x3-inch loaf, and place 2 to 2½ inches apart on
prepared pan.
6. Bake until set and loaves spring back when touched, 35 to 40 minutes.
Let cool on pan on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature
to 300°F (150°C).
7. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.
8. Place 1 cooled loaf on a cutting board. Using a serrated knife, cut
crosswise into ½-inch-thick slices. Gently place, cut side down, ½ to
¾ inch apart on prepared pans. Repeat with remaining loaf.
9. Bake, one batch at a time, until cut sides feel toasted and mostly dry,
about 25 minutes, turning slices halfway through baking. Let cool on
pan for 2 minutes. Carefully remove from pan, and let cool completely
on wire racks. (Biscotti will continue to crisp as they cool.) Store in an
airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

*We used Guittard 64% Cacao Semisweet Baking Chocolate Bars and
Williams Sonoma Espresso Powder. •

105 bake from scratch

BREAD, COOKIES,
AND CAKES!
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JUST ONE?
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origin of a classic

Kugelhopf
THE STORY OF THE KUGELHOPF, A
RICH, BRIOCHE-LIKE CAKE WITH
AMARETTO-SOAKED RAISINS,
HAS AS MANY CURVES AS ITS
BEAUTIFUL, ICONIC PAN

BY SANDI SHRIVER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BATHIE
FOOD STYLING BY KATHLEEN KANEN / STYLING BY CAROLINE BLUM
R
esembling an edible coronet adorned with glistening almonds and
amaretto-plumped golden raisins, the kugelhopf is a majestic cake.
The delicate crumb, lighter than air and reminiscent of tender
brioche, is the product of the unusual addition of baker’s yeast—creating a
bread-meets-cake hybrid. The sugary dough, enriched with eggs and pads
of creamy, golden butter, undergoes a single rise in a tall, fluted tube pan
before baking. The resultant kugelhopf cake is tall and splendidly contoured,
and the final dusting of confectioners’ sugar enhances each distinct curve.

Unsurprisingly, the earliest kugelhopf was made popular by royalty. When

kugelhopf first made its appearance in the 16th century, the addition of
butter and sugar to cakes was a luxury reserved for the wealthy upper class.
As copious amounts of butter and sugar are key to the classic kugelhopf
recipe, the cake was most often served in palaces and at regal banquets.
Austrian-born Marie Antoinette frequently requested this decadent cake
during her reign in France. In the late 1800s, Emperor Franz Joseph of
Austria was also a devout fan of kugelhopf. When he visited the countryside,
his mistress could be found baking up homemade kugelhopf, and he would
rarely go a morning without the rich treat. Word of the cake even made its
way to Polish ruler King Stanislas Leszczynski, who was rumored to have
invented a rum-soaked version called baba au rhum. Hopefully, this cake
made his exile in France more bearable.

Although made fashionable by French, Austrian, and Polish royalty,

exactly which culture can lay claim to the kugelhopf crown remains a hotly
contested debate. The name itself has Germanic origins and is thought
to refer to a type of hood called gugels, popular in medieval Germany.
The second part of the word, hopf, meaning “to jump” or “to hop,” likely
describes the rising of the cake caused by both the gluten formation in the
dough and the leavening action of the yeast. Coming to popularity long
before chemical leavening agents even existed, the kugelhopf may be one of
the first cakes that utilized yeast to create a light and airy texture. The other
available option was to use whipped egg whites, as in a classic sponge cake.
However, this method wasn’t popular until the invention of mechanized
eggbeaters in the 1800s. As German monks were experts in brewing and
manipulating the then-invisible yeast to create their ales, it seems possible
that the kugelhopf would have been crafted with their masterful hands.

Looking at the boundaries of European countries in the 16th century,

it makes sense that the Alsace region of France—hugging the German
border—also calls this confection their own. Their version, kouglof, is shaped
to resemble a different kind of headgear: the hats worn by the biblical three
wise men. According to lore, while passing through on their long journey
from Bethlehem, the three wise men grew tired. Luckily, a hospitable
Alsatian sheltered them for a night, and the three men thanked him
graciously by gifting him a cake in the shape of their hats. Even in
the modern age, these delectable “hats” are adored countrywide
and commonly consumed on Sundays for breakfast or brunch.
 Austria, a country that also borders Germany, has ties to the Whether this coveted creation was conceived by hooded monks
kugelhopf (gugelhupf to Austrians), too. On May 9, 2006, in Germany in the 16th century, gifted long ago by the three wise
gugelhupf was the Austrian entry in Sweet Europe, a presentation men, or invented to celebrate victorious Vienna in 1683, one thing
during Café Europe, a cultural initiative of the Austrian presidency is for sure—the semisweet, yeasted kugelhopf and the tall, circular
of the European Union. Historical accounts claim the cake was pan revolutionized the baking world. The ingenuity was hidden
created to fit a specific celebratory pan, developed after the within a high-capacity pan that circumvented a soggy center.
Viennese victory against the Turks during the 1683 Battle of Because the central tube allowed heat to come into direct contact
Vienna. The pan, turban-shaped to memorialize the win, led to the with the middle of the cake, relatively large cakes could be baked
birth of the now iconic crown-shaped cake. Interestingly enough, thoroughly. The ornate swirls and spirals of the pan also made for
there are similar tales that this significant win led to the invention of a stunning appearance. Traditionally crafted from earthenware—
both croissants and bagels. The first Viennese coffeehouse, fueled an ode to its bread-like origins—the pans were often glazed on
by bags of Turkish coffee, was opened in 1685, after the battle, the inside and left natural on the exterior. Other, more ornate
and perhaps helped to further introduce kugelhopf to the common pans were glazed entirely and painted with bold colors. Although
people. charming, the clay used to make the pans was particularly fragile,
and the bakeware was known to crack or break after repeated use.

109 bake from scratch

Fortunately, one particular kugelhopf pan managed to survive Predecessor to the Bundt and coveted by royalty, the kugelhopf is
migration to the United States, where it would—literally—shape a no doubt a cake for celebration. Its richness is refined without being
piece of American history. The pan had been inherited by a member overly sweet, and the flavors blend deliciously with a warm cup of
of a Jewish women’s group in Minneapolis, Minnesota, home to coffee or tea. The addition of dried fruits soaked in luscious liqueur,
bakeware manufacturer Nordic Ware. The group often made large from almond-scented amaretto to tart cherry kirsch, creates a
cakes for sharing, called bundkuchen, and found that the design of festive tone. Almonds, a German holiday favorite, add nutty depth
the heirloom pan was superior for these large cakes. The circular and charm while orange zest perfumes the delicate crumb. The only
design held a greater volume, baked evenly, and boasted an eye- additional adornment needed for this beautifully crowned cake is
catching fluted shape. In 1949, the women approached Nordic a generous snowfall of confectioners’ sugar. If you’re looking to
Ware founder Dave Dalquist with a design request: recreate the celebrate this holiday season with a cake as rich in tradition as it is
kugelhopf pan using modern material. Nordic Ware welcomed the in flavor, consider the kugelhopf your edible entry into history.
challenge, and the Bundt pan we all know and love was born.

Kugelhopf
Makes 1 (10-cup) kugelhopf 4. Add butter, orange zest, salt, almond extract, cinnamon,
vanilla, and remaining ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar to flour
Our brioche-like cake gets an aromatic boost from orange zest and mixture. Using the paddle attachment, beat at medium-low
amaretto-soaked raisins. A final dusting of confectioners’ sugar over speed until combined. Beat in eggs. With mixer on low speed,
the sliced almonds resembles fresh snow fallen on a shingled roof. Yet gradually add remaining 2¾ cups (344 grams) flour in three
under it all, the elegant crown shape reigns supreme—rivaled by none. additions alternately with remaining ⅓ cup (80 grams) warm milk,
beginning and ending with flour, beating just until combined after
3½ cups (438 grams) all-purpose flour, divided each addition. Increase mixer speed to medium-high, and beat
⅓ cup (67 grams) plus ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar, until smooth, shiny, and elastic and dough pulls completely away
divided from sides of bowl, about 9 minutes. (It is best not to stop mixing
½ cup (120 grams) plus ⅓ cup (80 grams) warm whole milk during this time). Scrape paddle; add raisins, and beat at low speed
(110°F/43°C to 115°F/46°C), divided just until combined.
2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast 5. Spray a 10-cup kugelhopf pan with baking spray with flour.
¼ cup (60 grams) amaretto Sprinkle bottom and sides of pan with almonds; using a wooden
1 cup (128 grams) golden raisins pick, move almonds around to fill any holes.
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, room temperature* 6. Using lightly floured hands or a bowl scraper, pinch off small
1 tablespoon (15 grams) tightly packed orange zest pieces of dough, and place in prepared pan. Using lightly floured
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt fingers, press dough even and flat. Gently tap pan on a kitchen
¾ teaspoon (3 grams) almond extract towel-lined counter a few times. Cover and let rise in a warm,
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cinnamon draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until dough almost reaches top of
½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract pan, 1½ to 2 hours.
2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature 7. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
⅓ cup (38 grams) sliced almonds 8. Bake until golden and an instant-read thermometer inserted
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting near center registers 190°F (88°C), 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool in
pan for 10 minutes. Invert kugelhopf onto a wire rack, and let cool
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together ¾ cup (94 grams) completely. Before serving, using a fine-mesh sieve, lightly dust
flour and ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar. with confectioners’ sugar.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together ½ cup (120 grams) warm milk
and yeast until yeast dissolves. Add yeast mixture to flour mixture, *Unlike softened butter, room temperature butter should provide
and whisk by hand until smooth and well combined. Cover and let no resistance when pressed with a finger. At this point, the butter is
stand until bubbles form, about 30 minutes. softened enough to easily incorporate into this dough. •
3. In a small saucepan, heat amaretto over medium-low heat until
steaming. (Do not boil.) Remove from heat, and add raisins; cover
and let stand for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Drain.

november | december 2020 110

 weeknight baking

Gingerbread Dutch
Baby Pancake

111 bake from scratch

 OUR SPICED DUTCH BABY PANCAKE OFFERS ALL OF THE
PLEASURE OF A PANCAKE BREAKFAST WITH HALF THE EFFORT.
MADE IN A BLENDER AND BAKED OFF IN A CAST-IRON SKILLET,
THIS IS THE SWEETEST, FASTEST WAY TO MAKE A FESTIVE DISH
DURING THE BUSY WEEKNIGHT HOLIDAY HUSTLE.

GINGERBREAD DUTCH BABY PANCAKE 3. Remove hot skillet from oven. Add butter, and let
Makes 4 servings melt, brushing all over bottom and up sides of skillet.
Carefully pour batter into hot skillet.
Classic Dutch baby pancakes are like the decadent hybrid 4. Bake until golden brown and puffed, about
of a popover and a pancake. The batter comes together in 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 300°F
a blender—no stand mixer required—and then gets baked (150°C), and bake for 5 minutes more.
in a piping-hot buttered skillet. Rich enough to be served 5. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine cold cream,
for a holiday breakfast or festive weeknight dessert, our confectioners’ sugar, and lemon zest; whisk until stiff
gingerbread version is warmly spiced and packs a hint of peaks form.
molasses. We finished it all off with a dollop of lemony 6. Serve Dutch baby immediately with whipped cream
whipped cream, maple syrup, and a scattering of ruby red and maple syrup. Garnish with confectioners’ sugar and
pomegranate arils. pomegranate arils, if desired.

¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk, room temperature *We used Williams Sonoma Espresso Powder.
½ cup (63 grams) all-purpose flour
3 large eggs (150 grams), room temperature Note: A food processor can also be used. If you don’t
2 tablespoons (28 grams) firmly packed light brown have either at your disposal, you can also whisk the batter
sugar together by hand until smooth and well combined. •
1¾ teaspoons (3.5 grams) ground ginger
1 teaspoon (1 gram) instant espresso powder*
1 teaspoon (7 grams) molasses (not blackstrap)
¾ teaspoon (1.5 grams) ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cloves
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground allspice
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter, softened
1 cup (240 grams) cold heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons (14 grams) confectioners’ sugar
1 tablespoon (4 grams) packed lemon zest
Maple syrup, to serve
Garnish: confectioners’ sugar, pomegranate arils

1. Place a 10-inch cast-iron skillet in oven. Preheat oven

to 425°F (220°C).
2. In the container of a blender (see Note), combine
milk, flour, eggs, brown sugar, ginger, espresso powder,
molasses, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, and salt; process
until smooth and well combined, stopping to scrape sides
of container as needed. (Batter will be thin.)
²^_` NMWQ

Poignant
Pound Cake
RENOWNED CHEF AND TV STAR CARLA HALL RECALLS HER
ADOLESCENCE ENJOYING HER GRANDMOTHER’S CHOCOLATE POUND
CAKE—AND HOW A VINTAGE COOKBOOK HELPED UNLOCK ITS SECRETS MANY YEARS LATER
My memories of my granny’s five-flavor pound cake may be almost as centered around eating it as baking it. Granny used
to make this pound cake for every celebration we had when I was growing up, but it was also the type of cake she would
bake and send to us when we went away to college.

“Unboxing” was actually a trend Granny may have started all of those years ago. When a pound cake arrived at my dorm,
it would be wrapped in many, many—this is not an exaggeration, there were so many—layers of wax paper and then brown
paper and then a paper bag and then the actual box. It took 20 minutes to open a pound cake from Granny. But the
payoff started when you got down to the last one or two layers and the smell
would waft out and I would be transported right home. I would find
a quiet corner in my room and open it slowly so that by
the time I got to the last few layers, anyone with too
much curiosity would have given up and walked away.
Then I could relish those flavors all by myself.

When I began working in restaurants in my

thirties, I was able to bake Granny’s pound
cakes in chocolate form as one of the
dessert options for my customers. But I
was struggling to get the right texture
her cakes always seemed to have.
Luckily, I found my answer in an old
cookbook from the 1930s. I found a
method for baking cakes that entailed
starting with a cold oven rather than a
preheated one. I tried it with my pound
cake and found that it was the trick
to creating a crumb that had the same
wonderful texture that Granny’s cakes
always had.

—Carla Hall, chef, cookbook author,

and cohost of The Chew

ILLUSTRATION BY KELLY REDDING

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