2020-11 Bake From Scratch
2020-11 Bake From Scratch
2020-11 Bake From Scratch
FROM SCRATCH ®
VANILLA-RED VELVET
59
Recipes for Festive Holiday Baking LAYER CAKE
page 74
[Gingerbread Dutch Baby Pancake,
Eggnog Rolls + More]
Christmas
Quick Breads
with Hallmark
Home &
Family’s Maria
Provenzano
Baking with
Pearl Sugar
Make-Ahead
Brunch Ideas
#thebakefeed
NOV/DEC 2020 VOLUME
$12.99US $15.99CAN
6, ISSUE 6
12
Holiday Cakes
Celebrate with Festive
7 25274 01695 2
Twists on 1-2-3-4 Cake
DISPLAY UNTIL JANUARY 18, 2021
FROM SCRATCH
®
table of contents
LE GIBASSIER
A French bread from Provence, the gibassier is flavored with anise, candied orange peel, and orange blossom water. Cut and
shaped to resemble a leaf, our Le Gibassier loaves rise in record time thanks to Platinum® Yeast from Red Star®.
Makes 8 small loaves thermometer registers 120°F (49°C) to draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled
130°F (54°C). Add milk mixture to flour in size, 1½ to 2½ hours.
2⅓ to 2⅔ cups (296 to 338 grams) bread mixture; beat at low speed just until combined 5. Punch down dough; let stand for 5 minutes.
flour, divided and yeast dissolves, stopping to scrape sides Turn out dough onto a clean surface, and
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar, of bowl. Add eggs and orange blossom water; divide into 8 portions (about 92 grams each);
divided beat at medium-low speed just until combined, shape into balls, pinching seams closed as
2 (0.25-ounce) packages (14 grams) stopping to scrape sides of bowl. With mixer needed. Cover with plastic wrap, and let
Platinum Yeast on low speed, gradually add 1⅓ cups stand for 25 minutes.
2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt (169 grams) flour, beating just until combined. 6. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line
¾ teaspoon (1.5 grams) plus ⅛ teaspoon 3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
ground cardamom, divided Beat at medium-low speed until dough is 7. Roll each dough ball into a 3½-inch-long
½ teaspoon ground ginger, divided smooth, elastic, and pulls away from sides log; flatten and shape into about 4½x3-inch
¼ cup (60 grams) whole milk of bowl, 7 to 10 minutes, stopping to scrape ovals (about ¼ inch thick). Place long side of
3 tablespoons (42 grams) olive oil sides of bowl; add up to remaining ⅓ cup dough ovals parallel to counter edge; using
2 large eggs (100 grams), room (42 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon (8 grams) at a sharp kitchen shears or scissors, cut 3 slits
temperature time, if dough is too sticky. crosswise and equally spaced within each oval,
2½ teaspoons (12.5 grams) orange 4. With mixer on low speed, add ¼ cup leaving about ½ to ¾ inch of dough intact on
blossom water (57 grams) butter, 1 tablespoon (14 grams) each side. Along one long side of each oval,
¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, at a time, beating until combined after each cut ½- to ¾-inch-long slits, evenly spaced, to
softened and divided addition (6 to 8 minutes total), stopping the side of each original center slit. Stretch
½ cup (72 grams) finely chopped candied to scrape sides of bowl and dough hook. dough gently just to open cuts; place on
orange Increase mixer speed to medium-low, and prepared pans. Cover and let rise in a warm,
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) anise seeds beat until a smooth, elastic dough forms, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until dough is
6 to 7 minutes, stopping to scrape dough puffed and holds an indentation when pressed
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the hook. (Dough should pass the windowpane with a finger, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
paddle attachment, beat 1 cup (127 grams) test. [See Note.]) Beat in candied orange 8. Bake, one batch a time, until golden brown
flour, ⅓ cup (67 grams) sugar, yeast, salt, and anise seeds until combined. Turn out and an instant-read thermometer inserted
¾ teaspoon (1.5 grams) cardamom, and dough onto a clean surface; knead 6 to in center registers 190°F (88°C), 6 to
¼ teaspoon ginger at low speed until 10 times to help evenly disperse candied 10 minutes. Let cool for 3 to 5 minutes.
combined. orange and anise seeds. Transfer dough to a 9. Meanwhile, in a small microwave-safe bowl,
2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk and medium bowl. Cover and let rise in a warm, heat remaining ½ cup (113 grams) butter on
oil over medium heat until an instant-read high in 10-second intervals until melted.
10. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, stir
together remaining ⅔ cup (133 grams) sugar,
remaining ¼ teaspoon ginger, and remaining
⅛ teaspoon cardamom.
11. Brush melted butter all over warm bread;
immediately coat with sugar mixture. Serve
warm, or let cool to room temperature on
wire racks.
EDITORIAL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Brian Hart Hoffman
D I G I TA L M E D I A A D M I N I S T R AT I V E
MARKETING DIRECTOR Kristy Harrison HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR
MARKETING COORDINATOR Hannah Crowe Judy Brown Lazenby
SENIOR ONLINE EDITOR Courtney duQuesnay IT DIRECTOR Matthew Scott Holt
DIGITAL DESIGNER Stephanie Lambert DEALER PROGRAM MANAGER Janice Ritter
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT/EDITORIAL Alex Kolar
I N T E G R AT E D M A R K E T I N G S O LU T I O N S
Visit bakefromscratch.com
and follow us for daily baking inspiration.
Bake from Scratch The Crumb @thebakefeed
from the editor
IF YOU’RE LIKE ME, THE HOLIDAY SEASON Vanilla-Red Velvet Layer Cake cover star (page 74). If you want
to flex your decorating skills, learn to ice your cookies with expert
IS PRIME TIME FOR BAKING. The celebratory period finesse in The Essential . . . Royal Iced Cookies (page 35.) Or try
seems ideal for icing cookies, frosting cakes, and rolling out dough. out one of our Very Merry Tarts (page 76). The Poached Pear
Maybe it’s the holiday state of mind or maybe it’s just the cold Buttermilk Tart is a fruity revamp on the buttermilk chess pie I
snap, but eitherway, I can’t wait to preheat my oven. enjoy every Christmas. We’re also giving you plenty of recipes that
use one of my ingredient obsessions—pearl sugar (page 47). If you
Around this time last year, I was celebrating with an annual always find yourself trapped in the kitchen Christmas Day—I’ve
tradition: eggnog cocktails at Highlands Bar & Grill, one of my certainly been there—turn to ’Twas the Night before Christmas
favorite restaurants in Birmingham, Alabama. There, I encountered (page 87), our make-ahead guide to sweet and savory options for
one of their new pastry creations, a gâteau Basque pound cake. Christmas brunch. And in recognition of the current COVID-19
To my surprise, when I cut into it, no custard center oozed out. times we live and bake in, we have our Signed, Sealed, Delivered
Instead, the cake had been made with the custard acting as its feature (page 97), dedicated to helping you make and package bars
liquid base, meaning the batter baked into a solid, tender-crumbed and cookies you can easily mail to loved ones you may be separated
cake that tasted of pure custard decadence. I was inspired by this from this holiday season.
brilliant idea to bring it to The Bundt Collection, a Bake from Scratch
cookbook focused on the iconic Bundt cake. The Basque Bundt We’re also featuring some bakers I know and love, from Carla Hall to
Cake is the beautiful amalgamation of two ideas into one delicious Maria Provenzano. It’s a great gathering of inspiration, bakers, and
cake. I’m sharing it here now—consider it my gift to all my beloved recipes to help you find any excuse to get busy with dough and batter.
bakers—because it’s not something I can keep secret during this
season of giving. Happy baking,
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Master Decorated Cookies
H O L I D AY B A K I N G I S S U E
RECIPE INDEX
with Royal Icing
on the cover
Vanilla-Red Velvet
FROM SCRATCH ®
59
Recipes for Festive Holiday Baking LAYER CAKE
page 74
page 74 [Gingerbread Dutch Baby Pancake,
Eggnog Rolls + More]
BARS AND COOKIES CAKES Christmas
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
Chocolate-Dulce de Leche Bars 103 Almond-Cranberry Cake 70 STEPHANIE
Quick Breads
with Hallmark
Home &
Chocolate-Peanut Butter-Pistachio Basque Bundt Cake 11 WELBOURNE STEELE Family’s Maria
Provenzano
resources
Baker Spotlight First Bake
Page 19 Page 113
Photos courtesy of Laura Cortés. Photography by Melissa Holm.
CREAM CHEESE-STUFFED
VANILLA-PEPPERMINT COOKIES
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TRENDING TOMES
ATTACK OF THE
SNACK CAKE!
Who says cake is only for dessert? Yossi Arefi’s
latest cookbook, Snacking Cakes: Simple Treats for
Anytime Cravings (Clarkson Potter, 2020), indulges
readers by transforming cake into an anytime treat.
The no-fuss, one-bowl recipes in this collection are
delightfully simple to throw together, made with
ingredients bakers likely have in their pantries and
baked in basic pans. This cookbook is perfect for BETTER BAKING,
bakers who crave near-instant baking satisfaction.
BETTER
Available at amazon.com on October 27, 2020.
BROWNIES
Our friend Mike Johnson
(@mikebakesnyc) has released his
debut cookbook, Even Better Brownies:
THE CREATIVE BAKER’S 50 Standout Bar Recipes for Every
Occasion (Page Street Publishing,
DREAM COOKBOOK 2020). OK, Mike, you have our
attention. The cookbook walks readers
If Ruth Mar Tam wasn’t inspiring you enough with her through inspired recipes for decadent
gorgeous Instagram feed, we now have her cookbook to brownies and bars, complete with
drool over. The blogger behind Cook Til Delicious brings traditional iterations and inventive
us Baked to Order: 60 Sweet and Savory Recipes with flavor combinations. From Cookie
Variations for Every Craving (Page Street Publishing, Butter Fudge to Chocolate Peanut
2020), a cookbook filled with delectable recipes and Butter Pretzel Blondies, bakers will be
ways to modify them to fit your wants and needs. This able to whip up rich, tasty treats with a
tome is truly meant to satisfy every craving. flick of the whisk.
Available at amazon.com on November 17, 2020. Available at amazon.com on
December 1, 2020.
and I was certainly raised in a baking How do you feel that cookbooks
environment. Then, in 2014, I started compare to recipes found online?
working for a company that is very social, LC: When I crack open a new cookbook,
and I would bake things to bring into the I read it from cover to cover. There’s
office every day. It was so fun to have so much valuable information found in
a captive audience, and I was definitely forewords, prefaces, authors’ letters,
popular around the office for bringing in chapter openers, etc. A lot of people just
goodies! Over time, people encouraged go straight to the recipe, but I love to
me to start a side business, which is how learn the background of the author and
the blog was born. I stuck with it for a why they make certain decisions in the
while but realized I wasn’t interested in kitchen. To me, it’s like going to school
the business side of baking—it became and taking a class, learning from one
a chore to me. Baking should never be person for a whole semester.
a chore! So, I just refocused my efforts
back into baking for the moment and What has been your favorite cookbook
flexing my creative muscles. to bake from so far?
LC: The Artful Baker by Cenk Sönmezsoy
We’ve all been spending more time at is amazing. I have baked through close
home recently. Have you challenged to nine cookbooks since I started “One
yourself with any difficult or more- Book/Two Months,” and The Artful Baker
involved bakes during the pandemic? is hands down my favorite. I love the style
LC: I started my “One Book/Two of instruction and the attention to detail.
Months” challenge in 2019. During the I like how Sönmezsoy is an unapologetic
pandemic, I have been able to spend a home baker, and he writes for home
lot more time in the kitchen, so I’ve been bakers. He doesn’t assume you’re going
baking through my cookbooks more to have technical training and professional
thoroughly. I’ve also made an effort to equipment. It’s the perfect combination
How did you first get into baking and bake things that I wouldn’t typically have of approachable style and challenging
when did you decide that a blog was the tried. I just made a butter mochi cake for recipes, my ideal cookbook.
next step on your baking journey? the first time, something I never would
LC: My mom had a cake-decorating have bought in a bakery or restaurant.
business when I was a small child, so I It’s been so wonderful to be surprised by
remember her teaching me the basics, recipes.
Follow Laura:
chubbeekitchen.com / @chubbeekitchen •
Makes 9 bars 3. Position broiling pan on lower oven bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating just
rack; place prepared pan on top. Set until combined after each addition. Add
1½ cups (212 grams) gingersnap cookie SHARP SuperSteam+ Built-In Wall Oven sour cream; beat at medium-low speed
crumbs (about 30 cookies) (SSC2489DS) to Manual/Convection Bake/ until combined, 1 to 2 minutes, stopping
3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted Preheat/1 Tray/325°F/10 minutes/Start. to scrape sides of bowl. Pour mixture onto
butter, melted 4. Bake for 10 minutes until set and prepared crust, shaking pan gently to spread
9 ounces (255 grams) halved fresh fragrant. Remove from oven; using a cream cheese mixture into an even layer.
raspberries (about 1⅓ cups lightly packed) straight-sided measuring cup, pack crust Tap sides of pan several times to release any
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar, back down into an even layer, if necessary. air bubbles, popping any that rise to the
divided Let cool on a wire rack for 30 minutes. surface with a wooden pick.
1 tablespoon (8 grams) cornstarch 5. In the container of a blender, combine 7. Working quickly, drop small dollops of
2 (8-ounce) packages (454 grams) raspberries and ¼ cup (50 grams) sugar; cooled raspberry mixture on top of cream
cream cheese, room temperature and purée until smooth. Strain raspberry mixture cheese mixture; using a wooden pick, swirl
cubed through an extra-fine-mesh sieve into a as desired. Place pan on broiling pan; set on
2 tablespoons (16 grams) all-purpose flour medium saucepan, discarding any seeds; lower oven rack.
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract whisk in cornstarch until well combined. Cook 8. Set SHARP SuperSteam+ Built-In Wall
¼ teaspoon kosher salt over medium heat until large bubbles form; Oven (SSC2489DS) to Manual/Steam Bake/
3 large eggs (150 grams), room cook, stirring frequently, for 3 to 6 minutes. Water Bath/300°F/25 minutes/Start.
temperature (Mixture should be the consistency of honey 9. Bake for 25 minutes until edges are set,
¾ cup (180 grams) sour cream, room and will continue to thicken slightly as it cools). top has a dulled finish, and center is almost
temperature Transfer raspberry mixture to a small bowl; let set. (It’s OK if cheesecake is still quite jiggly;
cool for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. it will continue to set up as it cools.)
1. Spray a 9-inch square baking pan with 6. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with 10. Using a knife, immediately loosen edges
cooking spray. Line pan with parchment the paddle attachment, beat cream cheese of cheesecake from parchment. Let cool
paper, letting excess extend ¼ to ½ inch at medium speed until smooth and creamy, in pan on a wire rack for 1½ to 2 hours.
over sides of pan. 1 to 2 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of Refrigerate in pan on a wire rack overnight,
2. In a large bowl, stir together gingersnap bowl. Add flour, vanilla, salt, and remaining loosely covering with foil only when
crumbs and melted butter until well ¾ cup (150 grams) sugar; beat at low speed completely cool to prevent condensation
combined; using a small straight-sided just until combined. Increase mixer speed from forming on top of cheesecake. Using
measuring cup, press into bottom of to medium, and beat until well combined, excess parchment as handles, carefully
prepared pan. 1 to 2 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of remove from pan, and transfer to a cutting
board. Using a warm dry knife, cut into bars.
Simply Better Living
from the pantry
EGGS
FROM THE OUTER WHITE TO RICH YOLK CENTER, WE
DECONSTRUCT THE SCIENCE BEHIND THE EGG, THE
FOUNDATION TO MANY A CLASSIC BAKED GOOD
W
hat came first, the chicken or the egg? It’s a question
with no answer, the perfect example of a logic paradox.
An easier question: what came first, the baker or the
egg? For most of us, we became a baker once we laid our hands
on an egg. No other baking ingredient holds so much potential,
purpose, and possibility. One swift crack against the counter, and
you’ve opened a door to untold adventure—or folly, if you’re not
careful. We’re diving deep into this humble yet temperamental
ingredient, from the protein-packed egg white to the rich golden
yolk, to ensure that any time you reach for an egg, you understand
its power and pitfalls.
As for the other egg distinctions, the color of the eggshell is determined by the chicken’s
genes, and the egg’s taste is decided by how the chicken it came from lives and what it
eats. So, don’t judge an egg by its shell but definitely consider labels like “free-range” or
“pasture-raised.” Free-range and pasture-raised chickens not only live better, but they
also eat better, producing delicious eggs with brilliantly golden or orange yolks. That
isn’t to say that factory-raised chicken eggs don’t have benefits—they’re less expensive
and much easier to find. Which you choose can depend on your recipe. If you’re making
something that depends on the rich egg yolk, like challah or custard, springing for free-
range eggs will help improve the overall taste and color of your baked good. If the recipe
requires very little egg and is dominated by other, stronger flavors, the type of egg
you use will make a minimal impact on flavor, texture, or color. Store your eggs in the
refrigerator, preferably on a stationary shelf (eggs stored in the door will have thinner
egg whites from all the jostling). How to determine egg freshness? Place your egg in a
bowl or cup of water. If the egg sinks, it’s fresh. If it floats, it’s a bad egg.
Then there’s the crafty baker’s secret weapon: egg wash. Egg wash is typically one egg
(or just an egg white or egg yolk) lightly beaten with 1 to 2 tablespoons water or milk to
create a thin mixture that can be brushed onto dough before baking. For pie-making
in particular, egg wash shows its amazing versatility at solving a number of problems.
Brush your parbaked piecrust with an egg wash and then bake it until the egg wash
has become dry and shiny, an extra 2 to 3 minutes, creating a protective seal between
your tender piecrust and creamy filling—no more soggy bottoms! Egg wash can also
work as a baker’s glue, sealing a double crust together. A final brush of egg wash onto
the unbaked upper crust bestows beautiful golden color and shine. We use egg wash in
similar ways throughout this issue, from securing pearl sugar to the tops of our Swedish
Cinnamon Buns (page 53) to imparting gorgeous color and shine to our Pull-Apart Milk
Bread Wreath (page 94).
Egg White
The egg white is about 90% water. The remaining 10% is made
up mostly of proteins, which, when vigorously whipped with a
whisk, become agitated, unfolding and bonding to each other to
create a microscopic mesh network that separates air bubbles and
water. This egg white foam is the secret to all meringues, mousses,
soufflés, and chiffon cakes. What’s important to know about
whipping egg whites is how to keep from overwhipping. Overwhip
your egg whites and the sulfur-bonded proteins will begin to stick
together too well. They begin to clump, and your whipped mixture
will begin to collapse, because the air is no longer suspended by the
protective protein net. French bakers of old used copper mixing
bowls and whisks to combat gritty, collapsed whipped egg whites.
Copper distracts sulfur-bonded proteins from clustering together,
keeping your whipped egg whites from collapsing into gritty bits.
The modern baker has a cheaper way to combat sulfur bonds:
acid, in the form of citrus juice or cream of tartar. As little as ¼
teaspoon cream of tartar or lemon juice can slow down the sulfur
bonds enough to create a stable mixture. The Italian Meringue
used on our Hot Chocolate Marshmallow Cake (page 68) contains
cream of tartar for this reason.
EGGNOG
NANAIMO BARS
A BAKE FROM SCRATCH EDITOR EXPLORES HER
CANADIAN ROOTS THE BEST WAY SHE KNOWS
HOW—THROUGH BAKING AND BOOZE
FOOD STYLING BY
MEGAN LANKFORD
STYLING BY
DOROTHY WALTON
W
hat I miss most about my maternal grandmother, Megan family and I were greeted with many wonderful things—memories and
Shackleton (née Lloyd-Jones), is her bubbly, full-throated photographs, hugs and barbecue—but one of the greatest treasures
laugh. When that magnetic sound was directed at you, it lay tucked away in the refrigerator. Cut into criminally small squares
made you feel like the most winsome and interesting person in the was my aunt Kathleen’s Nanaimo bars. A classic Canadian dessert,
room. Before she passed away, my grandma suffered a cruel battle Nanaimo bars pack a custard powder-based cream filling, velvet
with Alzheimer’s, descending into a painful fog of confusion. Many ganache topping, and a crust that sports the trifecta of nuts, coconut,
things about her changed and were lost, but some gems came to and chocolate. Before we left, I was gifted a collection of Aunt
the surface: precious memories of her childhood in Saskatchewan, Kathleen’s handwritten recipes, including the one for her Nanaimo
Canada, of her beloved brother, Bud, and their pet German shepherd, bars. Perhaps because I am a baker and a romantic, this family recipe
Princey. Grandma was a very proud Canadian, matched only by her felt like I was one step closer to something I had been afraid I’d lost.
pride in being a member of the Lloyd-Jones clan. Though I knew what
her Canadian and family heritage meant to her, there was much I As the Bake from Scratch team worked to reinvent this family recipe,
couldn’t understand or connect to—and when she was gone, it felt like I tried to find a way to bring all the strings of my Canadian roots
the chasm between my world and hers got infinitely harder to breach. together. I don’t know if my grandmother would have snacked on
Nanaimo bars in her day—she was a woman who famously spent her
Two years ago, I finally made a pilgrimage to Calgary, Canada, to calories on cocktails, not dessert—but I like to think the eggnog- and
meet with my great-aunt Kathleen and my second cousins Brenda bourbon-infused version would tempt her and that my meandering
and Megan, the wife and children of my late great-uncle Bud. My story would elicit one of those warm, full-throated laughs.
THE REDO
EGGNOG NANAIMO BARS ½ cup (57 grams) finely chopped toasted several times to smooth chocolate mixture
Makes 24 bars walnuts and release any air bubbles. Refrigerate for
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract at least 1 hour or up to overnight.
The classic Canadian dessert gets a bold, Eggnog Custard Filling (recipe follows) 5. Using excess parchment as handles,
boozy revamp thanks to a touch of eggnog and 6 ounces (170 grams) 64% cacao remove from pan; using a warm, dry,
bourbon. The nutmeg in the eggnog helps cut semisweet chocolate baking bars, serrated knife, cut into bars. Serve at room
through the custard and chocolate richness finely chopped temperature.
with aromatic spice, while crunchy walnuts and 2 tablespoons (28 grams) vegetable oil
coconut impart extra chewiness. *We used Walkers Pure Butter Shortbread
1. Spray a 9-inch square baking pan with Cookies.
⅔ cup (150 grams) unsalted butter cooking spray. Line pan with parchment
½ cup (43 grams) unsweetened cocoa paper, letting excess extend over sides of pan. EGGNOG CUSTARD FILLING
powder 2. In the top of a double boiler, combine Makes about 2 cups
⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons (91 grams) butter, cocoa, sugar, and salt. Cook over
granulated sugar simmering water, stirring frequently, ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, softened
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt until butter is melted. Whisk in egg 2½ tablespoons (24 grams) custard powder*
1 large egg (50 grams) and egg yolk until well combined; cook, 1 tablespoon (15 grams) bourbon
1 large egg yolk (19 grams) stirring occasionally, until thickened and 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
2⅓ cups (295 grams) shortbread cookie an instant-read thermometer registers ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground nutmeg
crumbs* 160°F (71°C), about 10 minutes. Remove 3 cups (360 grams) confectioners’ sugar
1¼ cups (105 grams) sweetened flaked from heat; stir in cookie crumbs, coconut, 3½ tablespoons (52.5 grams) prepared eggnog
coconut walnuts, and vanilla. Press mixture into
bottom of prepared pan; let cool in pan on 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
a wire rack for 30 minutes. the paddle attachment, beat butter and
3. Using a small offset spatula, spread custard powder at medium-low speed
Eggnog Custard Filling onto prepared crust until creamy, 2 to 3 minutes, stopping
in a smooth, even layer. Refrigerate for to scrape sides of bowl. Beat in bourbon,
30 minutes. vanilla, and nutmeg. With mixer on low
4. In the clean top of a double boiler, speed, gradually add confectioners’ sugar
combine chocolate and oil. Cook over alternately with eggnog, beating until well
simmering water, stirring frequently, until combined and stopping to scrape sides of
chocolate is melted and mixture is smooth. bowl. Increase mixer speed to medium, and
Working quickly, pour chocolate mixture beat for 1 minute. Use immediately.
over chilled filling. Using a small offset
spatula and tilting pan as needed, spread *We used Bird’s Custard Powder, available at
chocolate mixture into an even layer; select grocery stores and amazon.com. •
tap pan on a kitchen towel-lined counter
november | december 2020 28
baker pro²le
F
or many, “hands-on” is just an expression. For
Maria Provenzano, it’s a way of life. Maria is the
ever-capable mind behind From Scratch with
Maria, a blog devoted to crafting, and one of the resident
DIY experts on The Hallmark Channel’s Home & Family.
Whether you’ve ever desired to make a chocolate cake that
resembles a roaring bonfire or your own snowflake table
setting, Maria has been showing you how to do it all since
2013. But this devotion to the art of creativity began way
before the online realm of Pinterest, Instagram, or blogs
took off.
I n 1840, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert celebrated their nuptials with an exquisitely ornate wedding
cake that weighed 300 pounds and was 10 feet in circumference. Adorned with Greco-Roman
motifs of laurels and bouquets and crowned with sculptures of the couple and Britannia, the female
embodiment of Britain, its majestic decoration hid a rather humble English plum fruit cake. To the shock
of wedding guests and the public, what looked like intricately carved marble was in fact edible artifice:
royal icing, piped and molded into unprecedented glory.
The simple combination of sugar, water, and egg white, royal icing has been the pastry chef’s artistic
medium since the 1600s. Traditionally used to gild cakes, this malleable icing offered both creative
license for decoration and a protective coating to seal in the cake’s tender texture. In years since, the
icing has lent itself to the greatest of holiday traditions: Christmas cookies. We’re taking on this classic
art, diving deep into three royal icing decorations: piped, marbled, and brushed. From proper consistency
to steady piping, we’ll show you how to make brilliantly tinted and stunningly designed ornaments,
snowflakes, and winter trees. With our thoroughly modern guide to a historic technique, you’ll be able to
transform a plain cookie into a festive masterpiece.
A Tale of Two Consistencies
Learn to navigate the two forms of royal icing, border and flood, with a little help from water and confectioners’ sugar
THE FLOOD: Place your flood icing in a squeeze bottle with a small opening or ina pastry bag fitted with a Wilton No. 3 piping tip.
Squeeze out a puddle of icing, allowing it to pool from the center out. Don’t squeeze out too much at once, or you’ll overwhelm the
border. Use a wooden pick to gently shift the icing to fill in the gaps. Then use your pick to spread the icing in other directions. Once
filled, you can pop any air bubbles with the pick to create a smooth surface. Let dry for 2 to 3 hours. Keep in mind that humidity affects
the drying time, so if it’s a wet day, place your cookies near a fan to help speed up the process.
1. Using the white flood icing, fill in the top 2. Using a clean wooden pick, drag a line 3. Above the marble design, pipe a red line
quarter of the round part of the ornament down through the center of the colored and then a green line. Below design, pipe a
cookie; pipe a line each of red flood icing, band of icing. Wipe pick clean, and repeat green line and then a red line. Pipe 2 more
green flood icing, white flood icing, green flood 2 more times, to the left and right of the red lines, between each level down the
icing, and red flood icing. Keep a steady hand center, spacing evenly and wiping pick point of the ornament shape on the lower
as you pipe your alternating flood icings, as clean after each drag (any residual icing part of the cookie. Pipe a horizontal row of
any wiggling will lead to uneven icing bleed. Try left on the pick will muddy the colors). green dots between bottom red lines
to keep the lines an even thickness as well, as Then drag up 2 times, between the down (4 dots and then 3 dots); pipe a vertical
one heavier line can overwhelm a thinner line. drags, wiping pick clean after each drag. row of 2 green dots on the bottom tip of
You don’t need to touch the border icing as Let dry for 2 to 3 hours. the ornament. Let dry until hardened,
you pipe; if it doesn’t naturally settle into the about 30 minutes. Store in an airtight
edges, you can use a wooden pick to gently container for up to 1 week.
nudge it to the edge.
november | december 2020 42
WINTER TREE COOKIES bright green is reached; slowly add juniper (including next to green icing). Fill in using
green until the desired color is reached. the same consistency, and use a wooden
With a paintbrush and bit of icing, our Add water, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) at a time, pick to remove any air bubbles and make
verdant green trees get a romantic until border consistency is reached. Place sure there are no gaps in the icing. Repeat
dappling of winter snow. 1 cup (180 grams) in a pastry bag fitted with remaining cookies. Let dry for 2 to
with a very small round tip (Wilton No. 1). 3 hours.
MATERIALS NEEDED: To the remaining 3 cups (540 grams), add 6. Place white border icing in a pastry bag
Royal Icing (recipe on page 40) water, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) at a time, until fitted with small round tip (Wilton No.
Wilton Gel Food Coloring in Kelly Green, flood consistency is reached. Place in a 2). Place paintbrush in water. Starting at
Juniper Green, and Brown large squeeze bottle. the base of the tree, pipe a row of dots,
Water, as needed 3. To the second bowl (1¾ cups keeping in mind they will be grouped in
3 pastry bags [315 grams]), add water, 1 teaspoon 2 or 3. Remove brush from water, and wipe
2 Wilton No. 1 piping tips (5 grams) at a time, until border off excess water. Place brush tip in the
Squeeze bottle consistency is reached; cover airtight, and center of each dot and brush away from
1 Wilton No. 2 piping tip set aside. you, creating groups of 2 or 3 that meet.
36 (3½-inch) tree-shaped Christmas 4. To the third bowl (¼ cup [45 grams]), (Wipe off any excess icing as needed that
Sugar Cookies (recipe on page 40) add brown food coloring until desired color the brush picks up.) Place brush back in
Wooden picks is reached. Add water, 1 teaspoon water and then pipe another row of dots.
Paintbrush (5 grams) at a time, until border Remove any excess water from the brush,
consistency is reached. Place in a pastry and repeat procedure until you reach the
1. Divide Royal Icing among 3 bowls: bag fitted with a very small round piping tip top of the tree. Repeat with remaining
4 cups (720 grams) in the first, 1¾ cups (Wilton No. 1). cookies. Let dry until hardened, about
(315 grams) in the second, and ¼ cup 5. Using green border icing, pipe an outline 30 minutes. Store in an airtight container
(45 grams) in the third. Cover bowls with a along edges of tree part of a cookie. Using for up to 1 week.
damp paper towel or kitchen towel to keep green flood icing, fill in center. Using a
from drying out. wooden pick, remove any air bubbles and
2. To the first bowl (4 cups [720 grams]), make sure there are no gaps in the icing.
slowly add Kelly green food coloring until a Using the brown icing, pipe border of trunk
1. Once your green and brown base icing has 2. Remove brush from water, and wipe off 3. A fine-tipped paintbrush like the one
dried, you can begin creating snowy details. excess water. Too much water on the brush we used tends to spring into a narrow cone
Place white border icing in a pastry bag fitted will dilute your icing and make you lose shape. We want a more fanned-out broom
with a small round tip (Wilton No. 2). Place definition. Place brush tip in the center shape, leaving dramatic swept trails in the
paintbrush in water. Starting at the base of of each dot and brush away from you, icing. If you start losing the detailed sweep
the tree, pipe a row of dots, keeping in mind creating groups of 2 or 3 that meet. It look, flatten your brush tip between your
they will be grouped in 2 or 3. These should be should look like dimpled teardrops that join fingers to fan it out again.
generous dots of icing, not tiny pinpoints, so thinly at the top. 4. Continue to dot and sweep your way to
you can brush them into snowy sweeps. the top of your cookie. Use 2-dot clusters
in narrow spaces at the top and edges. Let
dry until hardened, about 30 minutes.
november | december 2020 44
SNOWFLAKE COOKIES until a soft blue or desired color is reached. snowflake, pipe a thin white line to the
Add water, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) at a time, opposite tip, leaving a rounded end at each
Complete with two icy designs, these until border consistency is reached. Place tip. Repeat with the remaining tips, making
cookies look like the intricate inner 1 cup (180 grams) in a pastry bag fitted sure each line (there will be 3 total) meets
workings of a snowflake. In reality, a with a very small round tip (Wilton No. 1). the others in the center. On each line
simple series of lines, dots, and “V” To the remaining 3 cups (540 grams), add going from the center, pipe 3 “V” shapes
shapes make up its pattern, offering the water, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) at a time, until with the points going toward the center.
gold standard of royal iced cookies: easy flood consistency is reached. Place in a Using the dark blue, pipe a small dot
execution, dazzling results. large squeeze bottle. between each line (there will be 6) and
3. To the second bowl (1½ cups 1 larger dot in the center, where the white
MATERIALS NEEDED: [270 grams]), add water, 1 teaspoon lines meet.
Royal Icing (recipe on page 40) (5 grams) at a time, until border 8. For design 2: Starting at one tip of
Wilton Gel Food Coloring in Cornflower consistency is reached; cover airtight, and snowflake, pipe a thin white line to the
Blue set aside. opposite tip, leaving a rounded end at each
Water, as needed 4. To the third bowl (½ cup [90 grams]), tip and making sure to leave space for a dot
3 pastry bags add cornflower blue food coloring until at each tip. Repeat with the remaining tips,
2 Wilton No. 1 piping tips dark blue or desired color is reached. Add making sure each line (there will be
Squeeze bottle water, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) at a time, 3 total) meets the others in the center.
36 (3⅛-inch) snowflake-shaped Christmas until border consistency is reached; cover Pipe smaller lines over the center, between
Sugar Cookies (recipe on page 40) airtight, and set aside. the larger lines (3 total). On each larger
Wooden picks 5. Using the light blue border icing, pipe line going from the center, pipe 2 “V”
Wilton No. 2 piping tip an outline along edges of a cookie. Using shapes with the points going toward the
White pearls light blue flood icing, fill in center. Using a center. Using the dark blue, pipe small
Tweezers wooden pick, remove any air bubbles and dots at each tip of the snowflake; pipe
make sure there are no gaps in the icing. dots between the “V” shapes on each
1. Divide Royal Icing into 3 bowls: 4 cups Repeat with remaining cookies. Let dry for line (1 on each side of the line), and pipe
(720 grams) in the first, 1½ cups 2 to 3 hours. a small dot at the end of the smaller lines
(270 grams) in the second, and ½ cup 6. Place white border icing in a pastry bag coming from the center. Place a white
(90 grams) in the third. Cover bowls with a fitted with very small round tip (Wilton No. pearl in the center. (Use tweezers for
damp paper towel or kitchen towel to keep 1). Place dark blue border icing in a pastry easier placement.) Repeat with remaining
from drying out. bag fitted with a small round tip (Wilton cookies. Let dry until hardened, about
2. To the first bowl (4 cups [720 grams]), No. 2). 30 minutes. Store in an airtight container
add cornflower blue food coloring, 7. For design 1: Starting at one tip of for up to 1 week.
Design #2
Design 1 is slightly simpler
than design 2, but have similar
steps. After making the long
bisecting lines mentioned in
step 1, you’ll pipe smaller lines
over the center, between the
larger lines (3 total). Then
you’ll pipe 2 “V” shapes at
the top of each of the longer
1. Starting at one tip of the snowflake, pipe a thin 3 “V” shapes with the points going toward the lines. A smattering of blue
white line to the opposite tip, leaving a rounded end center. Try to keep the “V” shapes tucked to the dots fills the empty space,
at each tip. Repeat with the remaining tips, making main line so that as you pipe more “V” shapes on and a pearl sprinkle is placed
sure each line (there will be 3 total) meets the others the other lines, they won’t overlap and touch. in the center as a crowning
in the center. Like when piping a border, you’ll make 3. Using the dark blue, pipe a small dot between jewel. Use tweezers for exact
a thread of icing that’ll span the expanse of the each line (there will be 6) and 1 larger dot in the pearl placement so you keep
cookie, only touching down on the cookie with your center, where the white lines meet. Let dry until from accidentally smudging
tip to create the rounded ends. hardened, about 30 minutes. Store in an airtight the icing. •
2. On each line going from the center, pipe container for up to 1 week
november | december 2020 46
Pret y inPearl
WITH PEARL SUGAR IN YOUR PANTRY, THE WORLD IS YOUR OYSTER. WE’RE
OFFERING THREE RECIPES THAT UNLOCK THE POWER OF BELGIAN AND SWEDISH PEARL SUGAR, FROM
TRADITIONAL SWEDISH KANELBULLAR TO A REVOLUTIONARY FRUITCAKE-COFFEE CAKE HYBRID.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM DICKEY / STYLING BY CAROLINE BLUM
GLUTEN-FREE HUMMINGBIRD 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to
CAKE 3 (8-inch) round cake pans. Line bottoms of overnight before serving.
Makes 1 (8-inch) cake pans with parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl, sift together flour, sugar, CREAM CHEESE FROSTING
One of our most popular recipes of all time, cinnamon, baking soda, salt, and nutmeg; stir Makes about 6 cups
our Hummingbird Cake is a classic Southern in pecans.
layer cake, packing pineapple, banana, 3. In a small bowl, stir together oil, banana, 2 (8-ounce) packages (454 grams)
and pecans under a dreamy Cream Cheese eggs, and vanilla. Add oil mixture to flour cream cheese, softened
Frosting. This gluten-free version boasts the mixture, stirring just until moistened. Fold in ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, softened
same iconic tropical flavor, tender texture, pineapple. Divide batter among prepared pans. 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
and creamy frosting. The best part? The only 4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center 1 (2-pound) package (907 grams)
change to the original recipe is a simple swap comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool confectioners’ sugar
of Bob’s Red Mill Gluten Free 1-to-1 Baking in pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans,
Flour for all-purpose flour. and let cool completely on wire racks. 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
5. Place a cooled cake layer on a cake plate. paddle attachment, beat cream cheese and
3 cups (444 grams) Bob’s Red Mill Place 1 cup (250 grams) Cream Cheese butter at medium-low speed until smooth and
Gluten Free 1-to-1 Baking Flour Frosting in a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch creamy, about 1 minute. Add vanilla, beating
1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar round piping tip. (Alternatively, cut a ½-inch until combined. With mixer on low speed,
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon opening in tip of pastry bag.) Pipe around gradually add confectioners’ sugar, beating
¾ teaspoon (3.75 grams) baking soda edge of cake layer. Spread half of Pineapple- until combined. Increase mixer speed to
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt Pecan Filling (about 300 grams) on layer medium, and beat until fluffy, about 1 minute.
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg inside piped border. Top with second cake
½ cup (57 grams) chopped toasted pecans layer, and pipe border around edge. Spread PINEAPPLE-PECAN FILLING
1 cup (224 grams) canola oil remaining Pineapple-Pecan Filling inside piped Makes 2½ cups
¾ cup (170 grams) mashed ripe banana border. Top with remaining cake layer. Spread
(about 2 medium bananas) a thin layer of Cream Cheese Frosting on 2 cups (500 grams) Cream Cheese
3 large eggs (150 grams), room top and sides of cake to create a crumb coat. Frosting (recipe precedes)
temperature Refrigerate until filling is set, 30 to ½ cup (57 grams) finely chopped toasted
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract 45 minutes. Cover and refrigerate remaining pecans
1 cup (200 grams) chopped fresh frosting. ⅓ cup (67 grams) finely chopped fresh
pineapple 6. Using a spatula, fold remaining frosting pineapple, patted dry
4 cups (1,000 grams) Cream Cheese until smooth and workable. Spread frosting
Frosting (recipe follows) on top and lightly on sides of cake. Using 1. In a medium bowl, gently stir together
Pineapple-Pecan Filling (recipe follows) a bench scraper, smooth edges until Cream Cheese Frosting, pecans, and
desired amount of frosting is left. Cover pineapple until combined.
ADVERTISING
FROSTING 411
1. Place a cooled cake layer on a cake you place your second cake layer on top 6. Using a spatula, fold remaining
plate. Place 1 cup (250 grams) Cream of the first, press it down lightly on top to frosting until smooth and workable. This
Cheese Frosting in a pastry bag fitted with make sure everything is even and level. just ensures that the frosting is an even
a ½-inch round piping tip. (Alternatively, 4. Spread a thin layer of Cream Cheese consistency and smooth before working
cut a ½-inch opening in tip of pastry bag.) Frosting on top and sides of cake to create with it on the cake.
Pipe a border around edge of cake layer. a crumb coat. A crumb coat is the baker’s 7. Spread frosting on top and lightly on
Think of this piped border as a sweet dam. term for a thin coat of frosting spread over sides of cake. Using a bench scraper,
This border will keep your filling from a cake that is then refrigerated before smooth edges until desired amount of
spilling out and seeping into the frosting on being frosted with the final, thicker layer frosting is left. Use an offset spatula or
the outside of the cake. of frosting. The crumb coat helps keep any straight-sided icing spatula to apply the
2. Spread half of Pineapple-Pecan Filling crumbs from getting into the final coat and frosting in generous swaths. Then switch to
on layer inside piped border. You want to fills any gaps where the border missed. a bench scraper to smooth and scrape down
smooth down the filling slightly so your 5. Refrigerate until filling is set, 30 to the sides. The bench scraper will leave the
cake layers will stack evenly. Our tools of 45 minutes. Cover and refrigerate frosting in an even layer all the way around,
choice? An offset spatula or a straight- remaining frosting. Chilling your cake as well as make the sides straight.
sided icing spatula. allows the filling to set and helps firm up 8. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours
3. Top with second cake layer, and pipe the crumb coat, making it easier to frost. or up to overnight before serving. A last chill
a border around edge. Spread remaining You also need to refrigerate your frosting, in the refrigerator will further set up your
Pineapple-Pecan Filling inside piped as it will get too soft at room temperature smooth frosting and pineapple-rich filling.
border. Top with remaining cake layer. As while the cake chills.
Christmas
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
WILLIAM DICKEY
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY
TRICIA MANZANERO
FOOD STYLING BY VANESSA ROCCHIO
STYLING BY LUCY FINNEY
. . . WHEN ALL THROUGH THE HOUSE, NOT
A CREATURE WAS STIRRING, NOT EVEN A
MOUSE. THAT INCLUDES YOU, BUSY BAKER.
WHY? BECAUSE YOUR HOLIDAY BRUNCH
IS ALREADY PREPPED AND WAITING IN
THE REFRIGERATOR. COME THAT BRIGHT
CHRISTMAS MORN, YOU CAN DEVOTE
PRECIOUS TIME TO ENJOYING FAMILY AND
PRESENTS, NOT MIXING DOUGH. THEN,
WHEN THE MERRY REVELERS BECOME
HUNGRY, PREHEAT YOUR OVEN—
PULL-APART MILK BREAD, EGGNOG ROLLS,
AND PEPPERMINT SCONES AWAIT.
Pull-Apart Milk Bread Wreath
page 94
White Chocolate-Peppermint Scones
page 96
PACKAGE YOUR
CHOCOLATE-
PEANUT BUTTER-
PISTACHIO BISCOTTI:
In a large tin or bakery box lined
with parchment paper, line up
biscotti in rows, packing as tightly
as you can. If you have room to
stack another row of biscotti, place
a piece of parchment paper or wax
paper between the two layers for
protection.
Slice-and-Bake Holiday
Confetti Cookies
page 103
PACKAGE YOUR
CHOCOLATE
DULCE DE LECHE BARS:
Wrap the individual bars in
parchment paper, plastic wrap, or
wax paper, fastened with twine or
tape if necessary. Place wrapped bars
in a tin or bakery box, packing them
tightly together so there is little
wiggle room.
Chocolate-Dulce de
Leche Bars
page 103
PACKAGE YOUR
PEARL SUGAR
GINGER COOKIES:
Stack your cookies four to six at
a time in cylindrical plastic bags,
sealing with a twist tie or twine. In
a large tin or bakery box, place a
layer of crumpled wax paper, crinkle
paper, packing peanuts, or bubble
wrap. Place sealed bags on top of
insulated layer, filling any gaps or
empty spaces with more crumpled
wax paper, crinkle paper, packing
peanuts, or bubble wrap.
Seal container.
SLICE-AND-BAKE HOLIDAY 5. Bake, one batch at a time, until edges are
CONFETTI COOKIES lightly golden, about 15 minutes. Let cool
Makes about 50 cookies on pan for 5 minutes. Using a large offset or
flat metal spatula, remove from pan, and let
Slice-and-bake cookies are easy to make and
S cool completely on wire racks. Store in an
eeasier to ship. Packed with holiday nonpareils airtight container for up to 1 week.
and glistening with sparkling sugar, this recipe
STEP ONE:: B
BOX
OX
OX IITT UP
UP. makes enough to fill several care packages. *We used Heilala Pure Vanilla Extract.
Buy a box bigger than your baked
goods package–at least 2 inches 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, Note: Let dough that has been refrigerated
greater in length, width, and height. softened for longer time spans stand at room
Use packing peanuts, bubble wrap, or ⅔ cup (133 grams) granulated sugar temperature until slightly softened and easier
brown packing paper to stuff a nice 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract* to slice, 15 to 30 minutes.
2-inch layer in the bottom of your ½ teaspoon (2 grams) almond extract
box. Place your package of treats in 2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour CHOCOLATE-DULCE DE LECHE
the center of the box, and fill up any ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt BARS
remaining space with more packing ⅓ cup (70 grams) holiday nonpareils Makes 24 bars
peanuts, bubble wrap, or packing ½ cup (112 grams) white sparkling sugar,
paper. This creates an extra layer of plus more for sprinkling Based on the classic caramelitas, these
insulation and cushion from outside 1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten buttery, nutty oat bars have a rich chocolate
weather and rough handling. filling punctuated by dulce de leche. With
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a firm streusel-like base and topping
STEP TWO: TAPE IT UP. the paddle attachment, beat butter and protecting the gooey middle, these bars
It may seem over the top, but taping granulated sugar at medium speed until travel exceptionally well and will be equally
over all the slits of the mailing box creamy, 2 to 3 minutes, stopping to scrape well-received.
will keep outside air from getting to sides of bowl. Beat in extracts.
your goodies. The less air exposure, 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together 1¼ cups (156 grams) plus 1 tablespoon
the better the taste. Bonus points: flour and salt. With mixer on low speed, (8 grams) all-purpose flour, divided
slap a “fragile” sticker onto your gradually add flour mixture to butter 1 cup (90 grams) quick-cooking oats
package so handlers know your box mixture, beating until combined. Fold in ¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed light
contains precious cargo. nonpareils. (Dough will be rather soft at brown sugar
this point.) Divide dough in half. Shape ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter,
STEP THREE: MAIL IT OUT. each half into a 7-inch-long log (about melted and cooled for 5 minutes
All of these goodies stay relatively 2 inches thick). Wrap each log in plastic 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) tightly packed
fresh for a week, so most of them wrap; holding ends of plastic wrap, roll orange zest
can be mailed out with regular five- log over work surface, creating a more ½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda
day shipping; just double-check with rounded shape. Refrigerate until firm, ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
your carrier service to make sure they about 2 hours. (See Note.) ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cinnamon
can get your cookies to the intended 3. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Line ¼ teaspoon ground cloves
recipient in time. If it’ll be too long, go 2 to 3 rimmed baking sheets with ⅔ cup (75 grams) chopped toasted
ahead and spring for priority mail or parchment paper. pecans
two-day shipping. You don’t want your 4. In a large rimmed baking dish or plate, ¾ cup (128 grams) roughly chopped
hard work arriving stale! place sparkling sugar. Working with one 66% cacao dark chocolate*, divided
dough log at a time, unwrap log, and brush ¾ cup (128 grams) roughly chopped
outside with egg; roll in sparkling sugar. milk chocolate*, divided
Working in batches and using a serrated ¾ cup (224 grams) dulce de leche
knife, cut logs crosswise into ¼-inch-thick Garnish: flaked sea salt
rounds, and place 1 to 1¼ inches apart on
prepared pans; flatten rounds slightly so 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray
they lay flush on baking sheet. (If dough a 9-inch square baking pan with cooking
rounds crack when flattening, simply press spray. Line pan with parchment paper,
and smooth back together.) Sprinkle tops letting excess extend over sides of pan.
with sparkling sugar. 2. In a large bowl, stir together 1¼ cups
(156 grams) flour, oats, brown sugar, ¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light
melted butter, orange zest, baking soda, brown sugar
kosher salt, cinnamon, and cloves until 1 teaspoon (3 grams) lemon zest
well combined. Press half of dough (about ⅓ cup (113 grams) molasses (not
293 grams) into bottom of prepared pan. blackstrap)
3. Bake until lightly golden around edges, 1 large egg (50 grams), room
about 10 minutes. Let cool in pan on a wire temperature
rack for 20 minutes. Leave oven on. 2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour
4. Sprinkle pecans, ½ cup (85 grams) dark 2 teaspoons (4 grams) ground ginger
chocolate, and ½ cup (85 grams) milk 1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking soda
chocolate onto prepared crust. 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
5. In a small microwave-safe bowl, stir ¾ teaspoon (1.5 grams) ground cinnamon
together dulce de leche and remaining ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cardamom
1 tablespoon (8 grams) flour. Heat on high ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cloves
in 10-second intervals, stirring between ½ cup (104 grams) Swedish pearl sugar
each, until mixture can be drizzled from
a spoon. Drizzle mixture onto pecans and 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line
chocolate in pan, leaving a ½-inch border 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment MATERIALS
around edges of pan. Crumble remaining paper. TO HAVE ON HAND
dough evenly over dulce de leche layer. 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
(It’s OK if some peeks through.) Top with the paddle attachment, beat butter, COOKIE TIN
evenly with remaining ¼ cup (43 grams) granulated sugar, brown sugar, and lemon BAKERY BOX
dark chocolate and remaining ¼ cup zest at medium speed until fluffy, 2 to
(43 grams) milk chocolate. 3 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of PLASTIC WRAP
6. Bake until chocolate is melted and bowl. Add molasses and egg; beat until well KITCHEN TWINE
crumble layer starts to turn golden brown, combined, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. PLASTIC BAGS
15 to 20 minutes. Let cool completely in 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together
pan on a wire rack. Using excess parchment flour, ginger, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, MUFFIN LINERS
as handles, remove from pan. Using a cardamom, and cloves. Add flour mixture WAX PAPER
serrated knife, cut into bars. Garnish with to butter mixture all at once; beat at low PARCHMENT PAPER
sea salt, if desired. Store in an airtight speed until combined, stopping to scrape
container for up to 1 week. sides of bowl. BUBBLE WRAP
4. In a small shallow bowl, place pearl sugar. PACKING PEANUTS
*We used Valrhona Caraïbe 66% Cacao Dark 5. Using a 1½-tablespoon spring-loaded BROWN PACKING PAPER
Chocolate Baking Féves and Callebaut Milk scoop, scoop dough (about 30 grams
Chocolate Baking Blocks. each), and roll into balls. Roll dough balls in PACKING TAPE
pearl sugar (see Note), and place 1¾ to SHIPPING BOX
PEARL SUGAR GINGER 2 inches apart on prepared pans.
COOKIES 6. Bake, one batch at a time, until cookies
Makes about 24 cookies appear cracked and edges are just set but
centers look slightly underdone, about
Pearl sugar saves the day again with these 10 minutes. Let cool on pan for 4 minutes.
beautiful, polka-dotted ginger cookies. Acting Remove from pan, and let cool completely
as gorgeous decoration and a protective on wire racks. Store in an airtight container
crunchy layer, pearl sugar helps make sure for up to 1 week.
the cookies arrive to your far-flung loved
ones in serious style. The molasses also helps Note: If pearl sugar isn’t sticking as well,
the cookies stay fresher for longer, as the lightly dampen hands with water before
hygroscopic sugar keeps them moist. rolling dough into balls and coating in sugar.
Crisp biscotti is a shipping dream, with a long shelf life and a rigid shape that
can handle the long, bumpy road ahead. Our chocolate-peanut butter combo
is made all the more decadent by the addition of yuletide-green pistachios.
Consider mailing these babies with your favorite brand of coffee—the two are
natural companions and make for a complete package.
*We used Guittard 64% Cacao Semisweet Baking Chocolate Bars and
Williams Sonoma Espresso Powder. •
CO
LL
EC
TIO
N
128
RECIPES FOR
THE COOKIE
ENTHUSIAST
NEW
RELEASE!
BRIAN HART HOFFMAN
It’s time to roll up your sleeves, Ŵour your work surface, and whip up
SHOP OUR ENTIRE BAKE FROM SCRATCH COLLECTION
something delicious! AT BAKEFROMSCRATCH.COM/SHOP.
origin of a classic
Kugelhopf
THE STORY OF THE KUGELHOPF, A
RICH, BRIOCHE-LIKE CAKE WITH
AMARETTO-SOAKED RAISINS,
HAS AS MANY CURVES AS ITS
BEAUTIFUL, ICONIC PAN
BY SANDI SHRIVER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BATHIE
FOOD STYLING BY KATHLEEN KANEN / STYLING BY CAROLINE BLUM
R
esembling an edible coronet adorned with glistening almonds and
amaretto-plumped golden raisins, the kugelhopf is a majestic cake.
The delicate crumb, lighter than air and reminiscent of tender
brioche, is the product of the unusual addition of baker’s yeast—creating a
bread-meets-cake hybrid. The sugary dough, enriched with eggs and pads
of creamy, golden butter, undergoes a single rise in a tall, fluted tube pan
before baking. The resultant kugelhopf cake is tall and splendidly contoured,
and the final dusting of confectioners’ sugar enhances each distinct curve.
Kugelhopf
Makes 1 (10-cup) kugelhopf 4. Add butter, orange zest, salt, almond extract, cinnamon,
vanilla, and remaining ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar to flour
Our brioche-like cake gets an aromatic boost from orange zest and mixture. Using the paddle attachment, beat at medium-low
amaretto-soaked raisins. A final dusting of confectioners’ sugar over speed until combined. Beat in eggs. With mixer on low speed,
the sliced almonds resembles fresh snow fallen on a shingled roof. Yet gradually add remaining 2¾ cups (344 grams) flour in three
under it all, the elegant crown shape reigns supreme—rivaled by none. additions alternately with remaining ⅓ cup (80 grams) warm milk,
beginning and ending with flour, beating just until combined after
3½ cups (438 grams) all-purpose flour, divided each addition. Increase mixer speed to medium-high, and beat
⅓ cup (67 grams) plus ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar, until smooth, shiny, and elastic and dough pulls completely away
divided from sides of bowl, about 9 minutes. (It is best not to stop mixing
½ cup (120 grams) plus ⅓ cup (80 grams) warm whole milk during this time). Scrape paddle; add raisins, and beat at low speed
(110°F/43°C to 115°F/46°C), divided just until combined.
2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast 5. Spray a 10-cup kugelhopf pan with baking spray with flour.
¼ cup (60 grams) amaretto Sprinkle bottom and sides of pan with almonds; using a wooden
1 cup (128 grams) golden raisins pick, move almonds around to fill any holes.
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, room temperature* 6. Using lightly floured hands or a bowl scraper, pinch off small
1 tablespoon (15 grams) tightly packed orange zest pieces of dough, and place in prepared pan. Using lightly floured
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt fingers, press dough even and flat. Gently tap pan on a kitchen
¾ teaspoon (3 grams) almond extract towel-lined counter a few times. Cover and let rise in a warm,
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cinnamon draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until dough almost reaches top of
½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract pan, 1½ to 2 hours.
2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature 7. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
⅓ cup (38 grams) sliced almonds 8. Bake until golden and an instant-read thermometer inserted
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting near center registers 190°F (88°C), 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool in
pan for 10 minutes. Invert kugelhopf onto a wire rack, and let cool
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together ¾ cup (94 grams) completely. Before serving, using a fine-mesh sieve, lightly dust
flour and ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar. with confectioners’ sugar.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together ½ cup (120 grams) warm milk
and yeast until yeast dissolves. Add yeast mixture to flour mixture, *Unlike softened butter, room temperature butter should provide
and whisk by hand until smooth and well combined. Cover and let no resistance when pressed with a finger. At this point, the butter is
stand until bubbles form, about 30 minutes. softened enough to easily incorporate into this dough. •
3. In a small saucepan, heat amaretto over medium-low heat until
steaming. (Do not boil.) Remove from heat, and add raisins; cover
and let stand for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Drain.
Gingerbread Dutch
Baby Pancake
GINGERBREAD DUTCH BABY PANCAKE 3. Remove hot skillet from oven. Add butter, and let
Makes 4 servings melt, brushing all over bottom and up sides of skillet.
Carefully pour batter into hot skillet.
Classic Dutch baby pancakes are like the decadent hybrid 4. Bake until golden brown and puffed, about
of a popover and a pancake. The batter comes together in 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 300°F
a blender—no stand mixer required—and then gets baked (150°C), and bake for 5 minutes more.
in a piping-hot buttered skillet. Rich enough to be served 5. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine cold cream,
for a holiday breakfast or festive weeknight dessert, our confectioners’ sugar, and lemon zest; whisk until stiff
gingerbread version is warmly spiced and packs a hint of peaks form.
molasses. We finished it all off with a dollop of lemony 6. Serve Dutch baby immediately with whipped cream
whipped cream, maple syrup, and a scattering of ruby red and maple syrup. Garnish with confectioners’ sugar and
pomegranate arils. pomegranate arils, if desired.
¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk, room temperature *We used Williams Sonoma Espresso Powder.
½ cup (63 grams) all-purpose flour
3 large eggs (150 grams), room temperature Note: A food processor can also be used. If you don’t
2 tablespoons (28 grams) firmly packed light brown have either at your disposal, you can also whisk the batter
sugar together by hand until smooth and well combined. •
1¾ teaspoons (3.5 grams) ground ginger
1 teaspoon (1 gram) instant espresso powder*
1 teaspoon (7 grams) molasses (not blackstrap)
¾ teaspoon (1.5 grams) ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cloves
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground allspice
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter, softened
1 cup (240 grams) cold heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons (14 grams) confectioners’ sugar
1 tablespoon (4 grams) packed lemon zest
Maple syrup, to serve
Garnish: confectioners’ sugar, pomegranate arils
Poignant
Pound Cake
RENOWNED CHEF AND TV STAR CARLA HALL RECALLS HER
ADOLESCENCE ENJOYING HER GRANDMOTHER’S CHOCOLATE POUND
CAKE—AND HOW A VINTAGE COOKBOOK HELPED UNLOCK ITS SECRETS MANY YEARS LATER
My memories of my granny’s five-flavor pound cake may be almost as centered around eating it as baking it. Granny used
to make this pound cake for every celebration we had when I was growing up, but it was also the type of cake she would
bake and send to us when we went away to college.
“Unboxing” was actually a trend Granny may have started all of those years ago. When a pound cake arrived at my dorm,
it would be wrapped in many, many—this is not an exaggeration, there were so many—layers of wax paper and then brown
paper and then a paper bag and then the actual box. It took 20 minutes to open a pound cake from Granny. But the
payoff started when you got down to the last one or two layers and the smell
would waft out and I would be transported right home. I would find
a quiet corner in my room and open it slowly so that by
the time I got to the last few layers, anyone with too
much curiosity would have given up and walked away.
Then I could relish those flavors all by myself.