Product Forecast

Women's Textiles Forecast

S/S 23: Full Spectrum
This joyful, high-energy and anti-conformist textiles
direction embraces diverse and divergent influences for
womenʼs apparel, where originality and self-expression
are celebrated

Helen Palmer
07.19.21 · 14 minutes

Slum Studio
Full Spectrum
Embracing life with full colour, full styling, full creativity and full fun.

Full Spectrum acts like a collective exhale following a unique period of global
constraint. Itʼs an almost-anything-goes, anti-conformist direction that champions
diverse and divergent perspectives and radical self-acceptance.
Contrasting elements are a recurring theme in this trend, and they are combined in
fun and spontaneous ways. Sporty styles are joyful and frivolous (more roller
skating and hula-hooping, less boot camp); outdoor items fuse high functionality
with high fashion; and transhuman and digitally enhanced looks are admired as a new
aesthetic in the physical world. Community is key, so brands and products that
enable people to connect around authentic and respectful local and global stories,
shared aesthetics and values will have a stronger impact.
Colour is used in unambiguous, unapologetic and unexpected ways (pink palm trees,
purple lip gloss and synthetic sunsets all have a home here), and product shapes
range from fluid, mercurial forms to more theatrical and extravagant designs.
Textures can be super-smooth, gloopy and gummy, and prints and graphics are
maximalist and meme-friendly, encompassing clashing patterns, paint daubs and
subversive slogans.
In 2023, consumers will be hungry for products and experiences that bring
extravagance to the everyday, and they will be expecting them in their unfiltered,
full-spectrum forms.

@uunnaamm

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Energising summer stripes
The concep t: re-energise # summerstripes
with confident sun-drenched colour and blocky
layouts.
Fibre & yar n: use GOTS-certified, Fair Trade,
BCI or recycled cotton, natural linen, and for a
silkier sheen, FSC-certified viscose, lyocell and
Decorators Best
ahimsa silk.
Cons tr uction & finish: make joyful
# retroresort stripes based on deck chairs,
awnings and beach mats in plain, twill and
textured structures, satin stripes, and both Laze @fenoel

spaced and colourful variegated layouts.

Take inspiration from Good Good Good's vibrant
range in Kenyan textile Kikoi, woven in South
Africa's Western Cape. Also see Filipino brand
@sewtakeahike
PIOPIO's modern reinterpretions of local hand-
woven textiles, and the breezy stripes at
Brooklyn-based brand Fe Noel, whose style is
rooted in Caribbean heritage.
Relevant for: shirts, jackets, separates,
matching sets, loungewear, beachwear, so
accessories

PIOPIO Good Good Good Sunteks

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Super-natural marbling
The concep t: give summer fabrics a
mesmerising camouflage makeover with
nature-inspired marbled swirls that call to
mind butterfly wings and animal skins.
Fibre & yar n: source superfine certified
organic, BCI and Fair Trade cotton, FSC-
@lorene.anderson
certified viscose, lyocell and ahimsa silk.
Cons tr uction & finish: create stylised
patterns in silky lightweight jacquards and
prints for sleek blouse- and dress-weights and
lightweight tonic technical proofs, or apply to Fitchwork @awaytomars

semi-sheer shirting and beach cover-ups.

Italian brand Missoni perfectly personifies this
trend with signature distorted # marbling
stripes. Also take inspiration from the head-to-
Ratti
toe swirling created by AWAYTOMARS.
Relevant for: beachwear, loungewear, shirts,
dresses, matching sets, so accessories

Judith de Vries Missoni Dash & Miller

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Uplifting chroma
The concep t: the metaverse inspires
transformative colour wovens with digitally
layered chroma hues that upli summer plains,
stripes and checks.
Fibre & yar n: source certified organic and
preferred cotton, and FSC-certified viscose,
WGSN Archive
modal, cupro, Tencel, Ecovero, Livaeco, and
ahimsa silk.
Cons tr uction & finish: use mood-boosting
ombré striping to enliven Madras and grid
checks, mini ginghams and ripstops, and use @gimaguas Woven Studio

subtle space-dyed or printed yarns to make

even so er gradients. Create optical geometric
layouts in dobbies and jacquards.
Here we have referenced Brooklyn-based
SC Design Lab
designer Christopher John Rogers' signature
high-energy pattern-play in colour-changing
polka-dot stripes.
Relevant for: shirts, dresses, separates,
lounge, sleepwear, so accessories

Re k Anadol Christopher John Rogers Dash & Miller

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Maximalist outdoors
The concep t: summer camping, fishing and
hiking gear takes a bold stance with a
maximalist approach.
Fibre & yar n: ocean plastic recycling,
lightness and durability are key for recycled
PET polyesters and nylons such as NewLife,
Gruppocinque
Repreve and Seaqual, along with eco-proofed,
certified cotton.
Cons tr uction & finish: dopamine-inducing
brights and hyperreal nature inject outdoors
fabrics with a fashion outlook, where flora Stephen Friedman Gallery No Borders

meets festival psychedelia. Give active proofs

and durable cottons water- and wind-resistance
via fluorine-free, bio-based finishes and anti-UV
tech.
Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney's 'J is for Joy' collection
elevates sportswear with tactile luxury and
optimistic colour. We've also highlighted a
unique, utility cotton jacket from No Borders,
whose unique garments are curated from
designers all over the world.
Relevant for: jackets, outerwear, shirting,
bottoms, so accessories

Shinkong Textile Harper's Bazaar Arabia Shinkong Textile

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Artistic expression
The concep t: the # tiedye dye trend evolves
with a more hand-painted, customised spin.
Fibre & yar n: focus on GOTS-certified cotton,
BCI, Fair Trade or recycled cottons. Lyocells
and GRS-certified recycled polyester and
nylons add a silkier look.
Future Fabrics Expo
Cons tr uction & finish: foster
# joyfulexpression via tie-dye or hand-painted
poplins, lawns, casual canvas and twills, as
well as silkies and technical proofs in natural
or water-saving dyes, or recreate this effect in @theslumstudio Pettersen & Hein

jacquard or digital print form.

The Slum Studio's circular, ethical wearable
art-wear is made by hand-painting and stamping
selected undyed clothing waste (sent from
John Elliott
around the world) in Ghana's capital Accra. Also
take inspiration from Chinese brand Particle
Fever's painterly sportswear.
Relevant for: shirts, jackets, workwear, pants,
outerwear, so accessories

Dash & Miller Particle Fever Woven Studio

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Feel-good lightweights
The concep t: not-so-basic brights bring an
upli ing, breezy approach to lightweight
wovens, with comfort built in to adapt to
variable summer climates.
Fibre & yar n: naturally breathable and skin-
friendly fibres are key. Opt for breathable,
Nilba Tekstil
moisture-wicking, cooling properties of
superfine GOTSS, BCI and Fair Trade cotton,
and relaxed, eco-friendly linen and lyocell. Add
low-impact cooling, antibacterial, anti-UV and
easy-care technologies. Thomas Jackson Christopher John Rogers

Cons tr uction & finish: simple airy lenos,

lawns, poplins and superfine semi-sheers and
voiles will work well here. Subtle updates
include micro-yarn irregularities, slight crinkle
textures, and thick and thin yarn layouts. Ecological Textiles

Relevant for: shirting, jackets, separates,

dresses, loungewear, so separates

Anaak @rejinapyo Ecological Textiles

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Upcycle-downcycle mixes
The concep t: the reverse-engineering of
garment waste to create fibres for textile
repurposing continues to drive new upcycled
aesthetics.
Fibre & yar n: source GRS-certified fibre yarns
suitable for onward recyclability, and branded
Woven Studio
circular cellulose fibres like Evrnu, Circulose,
Refibra and Liva Reviva.
Cons tr uction & finish: insert lively surplus
yarn into summer shirting and novel shredded
fabric for deconstructed summer tweeds. Alexandra Sipa Gjenge Makers

We're inspired by Berlin-based Tim van der

Looʼs New Blue denim made from tu ed,
stitched and shredded waste denim, as well as
the zero-waste, ethical cra of Mexican-
Molly Haynes
American designer Yesenia Villaseñor. Also
see Ocean Live Bait (Detritus) weaves by Los
Angeles-based artist Molly Haynes, and
Bucharest-born Alexandra Șipaʼs waste
creations.
Relevant for: shirting, tops, jackets, separates,
denim, so accessories

Dash & Miller Yesenia Villasenor Tim van der Loo

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Celebratory craft
The concep t: celebrate regional cra s and
cultural diversity with joyful, festive materials
and techniques.
Fibre & yar n: use GOTS-certified, Fair Trade,
BCI or recycled cotton, natural linen, and for a
silkier sheen, FSC-certified viscose, lyocell and
Haruna Yamato
ahimsa silk
Cons tr uction and finish: cra is a big focus.
Create mosaic-look geometric jacquards and
dobbies, and macro-scale hand-looms.
Develop extra texture via smocked Dimitri Woven Studio

embroidery, or stitch-like extra-we thread

weaves. Work with artisans on one-of-a-kind
pieces that can become future heirlooms.
We're inspired by Italian-Greek brand Dimitri's
Frances Priest
wavy embroideries and Lagos brand Emmy
Kasbit's bold-scale, hand-woven and fringed
Akwete separates.
Relevant for: shirts, jackets, separates,
dresses, occasion, so accessories

Dash + Miller Emmy Kasbit Ventures

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Regency romance
The concep t: fresh pastels and playful
textures will redefine the romance of
influences from the Regency period.
Fibre & yar n: opt for RWS-certified summer-
weight merino worsted blends for tailoring,
GOTS-certified cotton, and for a silkier sheen
Woven Studio
and draped handle, FSC-certified viscose,
lyocell, cupro and ahimsa silk.
Cons tr uction & finish: update romantic fabrics
with digitally appealing colour. Use dobby
designs and yarn interest to update Regency- Sicky Magazine So a Ilmonen

inspired stripes, and develop delicate fil-coupé

motifs and fringes in shirtings and super-light
figured brocades and damasks.
We're inspired by Berlin-based Japanese artist
Aiko Tezuka
Aiko Tezuka's unravelled and re-woven
elaborate textiles, based on the interwoven
histories between Eastern and Western
textiles. Finnish designer Sofia Ilmonen plays
into our # nuhistorics trend with dresses that
blend historical volume and pretty, adaptable
details.
Relevant for: shirts, dresses, separates,
lounge, sleepwear, so accessories
Woven Studio Melissa x Y/Project Woven Studio

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Sultry sheen
The concep t: use mesmerising colour and
sheeny surfaces to create alluring, high-
summer silkies.
Fibre & yar n: make sheen sustainable with
natural fibres. Use FSC-certified viscose,
modal, cupro, Tencel lyocell Ecovero, Livaeco
Duksung Inco
and ahimsa silk, or source GRS-certified
recycled synthetics like polyester.
Cons tr uction & finish: develop silky qualities
that can move seamlessly from day to night for
attainable luxury, from diaphanous silks to Fashion Gone Rogue Stem Agency

liquid-drape satins and crisper taffetas.

Develop shot, shantung and tonic effects or
hammered and embossed textures.
Take inspiration from the ultra-luxurious silks
@materio_fr
used by designer Christopher John Rogers for
slinky dresses.
Relevant for: loungewear, intimates,
occasionwear dresses, separates, jackets, so
accessories

Charli Cohen Christopher John Rogers Yarangumeli

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Kidult kitsch
The concep t: so as candy floss and as pretty
as a blossom, occasionwear moves into
voluminous 3D fabric manipulation and same-
fabric decoration.
Fibre & yar n: use natural and synthetic fibres
with superfine counts. Source GRS-certified
Silk Fashions
polyester and nylon, or superfine cotton and
silk.
Cons tr uction & finish: sheer voilé, chiffon and
crisp organdies are key, enhanced with delicate
ombrés and prints. Manipulate fabric into 3D- Francesca Colombo Paskal

pleated, ruched and folded forms, or devise

oversized laser-cut florals, polka dot
paillettes, flounces and frills.
We've noted St Petersburg born Polina
Sicky Magazine
Gorkovenko's foamy pastel creations, Susan
Fang's mathematically constructed voluminous
sheers and Ukraine-based Paskal's distinctive
laser-cut creations.
Relevant for: shirts, tops, separates, dresses,
so accessories

Susan Fang @polina_gorkovenko_ Magdalena Sophie Orland

12
Fantasy resort
The concep t: nature continues to influence
summer florals with an unnatural intensity,
enhanced by the intersection between cra
and fabric technology.
Fibre & yar n: make sheen sustainable with
FSC-certified viscose, modal, cupro, Tencel,
Justin Favela
lyocell Ecovero, Livaeco, and silk, and recycled
synthetics.
Cons tr uction & finish: reinterpret tropical
florals in jacquard patterns, making designs
larger-than-life with 3D blister textures, fan- @uunnaamm Anastasia Chebotareva

like pleating, and fil-coupé. Consider

overprinting florals on deadstock fancies for
tactile colour and texture overload.
We're inspired by Anastasia Chebotareva's
Lindsey Rickert
unique pleated, layered and printed
shimmering pieces.
Relevant for : loungewear, intimates,
occasionwear dresses, separates, jackets, so
accessories

Mantero Seta Lisa Folawiyo Alpha Fabric Co., Ltd.

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Trash to treasure
The concep t: frugality and creative
customisation drive a new approach to design,
turning everyday waste into garment
decorations and constructions.
Fibre & yar n: reclaim ad-hoc, colourful fibre,
yarns and fabrics into trims and constructions
Erika Maish
that are ethically made, and compatible for
onward recyclability.
Cons tr uction & finish: be creative with your
own waste or source from inventory platforms
and initiatives. Upcycle deadstock and post- Coeval Magazine / Erica Maish Alexandra Sipa

consumer waste, combining high- and low-

value elements.
In Los Angeles, innovative jewellery and
apparel designer Erika Maish turns car-seat
Adam Jones
beads and ring-pulls into eye-catching
interlocking designs. We also love the zero-
waste Flower Field artwork by Dutch designer
Simone Post, creatively using le over fabrics
from Vlisco, producer of batik-printed fabrics
for the African market.
Relevant for : shirting, dresses, jackets, so
accessories

Simone Post Ana Clara Watanabe The Guardian

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1 234
Action points

Source sustainably with Apply DIY resourcefulness in Re-energise resortwear with Add a mesmerising colour lter
certi ed bre choices creative ways vibrant colours and patterns to slick sportswear

A wider availability of organic cotton and Embed resourceful DIY creativity into Transform casual attire with upli ing Give both occasionwear and sportswear
linen options and recycled-content your design ethos: upcycle deadstock high-energy summer colour. Dial up a more sophisticated look, using
nylon and polyester synthetics means and scrap fabric into one-of-a-kind bold scales and patterns for summer alluring crisp or silky shadow-pattern
there's more scope for rebalancing pieced-and-patched garments, sourcing updates, from vibrantly coloured prints and ombré colour filtered
fabric sourcing with low-impact choices. pre- and post-production waste yarns. # retroresort stripes and check layouts stripes, as well as shadow-patten
FSC, GOTS and BCI certifications are Create textiles to be decoratively to more vacation-inspired, decoratively jacquards, balancing the hyper-real with
minimum requirements upgraded via overprinting or tiled patterns and motifs digital overtones
customisation

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WGSN’s forecast reports are created by our global team of experts
Mater ials forecas ting team Contr ibutors Aus tralia
Helen Palmer, Head of Materials & Textiles Afr ica Yianni Giovanoglou, Client Services Specialist, Australia
Gemma Riberti, Head of Interiors, WGSN Lifestyle and Mia Du Plessis, Account Manager, South Africa Europ e
Interiors Amer icas Ana Cano, Spanish Localisation Editor, WGSN, Spain
Jenny Clark, Head of Colour
Sofia Martellini, Content Manager, Start by WGSN,
Olivia Barnes, Strategist, Materials & Knit, Fashion LATAM
Julia Skliarova, Senior Strategist, Textiles, Fashion Jessica McKeveny, Materials Associate,
Charlotte Casey, Senior Strategist, Knit, Fashion Image Management, WGSN, US
Jane Collins, Senior Strategist, Accessories & Footwear, APAC
Fashion Ting Wang, Vice General Manager, China
Yvonne Kostiak, Senior Strategist, Active, Fashion Claire Lam, Account Manager, Hong Kong

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Industry credits and collaborations
Thanks to the following fabric and Oshadi Dash + Miller Woven Studio
textiles mills and weave design studios, Parlamis Tekstil Dash + Miller specialises in the design, Woven Studio produces a seasonal
which collaborated with WGSN to
Pastel by Yilmazipek development and production of woven collection of woven and multi-process
provide sourced seasonal
fabrics for the global fashion and fabric swatches using carefully sourced
developments and exclusive samples Pizval interiors industries, using experimental yarns and materials. With a broad range
for the S/S 23 forecast reports.
Ratti yarn, structure, colour and finishing. Its of experience in design development,
Mills portfolio of original samples offers an the studio is fully equipped to work on
Saisilks
Almodo Textile inspirational range, complete with projects from trim and fabric
Shaoxing Longdu technical information for mill design and development to meterage that is hand-
Alpha Fabric Co. Ltd. development. A consultancy service is woven in-house, while also offering
Shinkong Textile
Arvind Limited also offered for specific projects, industrial production solutions with
Stoker Mills
including mixed-media designs, screen different weaving mills in the UK and
Bartolini
Sunteks prints and hand wovens, and the studio around the world. With extensive
Bianco Tessuti collaborates with a high-end UK knowledge of yarn suppliers and textile
Tessuti & Tessuti
Broderies Langlet womenswear mill to produce a seasonal manufacturers, the studio has the
TBM
collection of fabric available by the capacity and expertise to conduct
Cocccon
Vanners metre. experimental research using new and
Deltracon Contact: Juliet Bailey unusual materials.
Ventile
Duksung Inco Email: [email protected] Contact: Laura Miles
Ventures
Tel: +44 (0)20 3002 0553 Email: [email protected]
Dutel Creations
Stephen Walters Tel: +44 (0)793 053 4721
Gratacos
Yarangumeli
Green Whisper
Yilmaz Kumascilik Tekstil
Gruppocinque
Lanificio Luigi Zanieri
Hantas Tekstil
Inseta
John England
Klasikine Tekstile
Kuwamura
Lanificio Faliero Sarti
Mantero Seta
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Organic Textile Company
WGSN macro forecast 2023
The timeline for WGSN's suite of 2023 trend reports, moving from business strategy to
consumer and product strategy

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The trend matrix

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