Immediate Download Luxury: A Rich History 1st Edition Peter Mcneil Ebooks 2024
Immediate Download Luxury: A Rich History 1st Edition Peter Mcneil Ebooks 2024
Immediate Download Luxury: A Rich History 1st Edition Peter Mcneil Ebooks 2024
com
DOWLOAD HERE
https://textbookfull.com/product/luxury-a-rich-
history-1st-edition-peter-mcneil/
DOWLOAD NOW
https://textbookfull.com/product/luxury-a-rich-history-first-
edition-mcneil/
https://textbookfull.com/product/butter-a-rich-history-first-
edition-khosrova/
https://textbookfull.com/product/iutam-a-short-history-2nd-
edition-peter-eberhard/
https://textbookfull.com/product/fully-automated-luxury-
communism-a-manifesto-aaron-bastani/
Nietzsche and Eternal Recurrence 1st Edition Bevis E.
Mcneil
https://textbookfull.com/product/nietzsche-and-eternal-
recurrence-1st-edition-bevis-e-mcneil/
https://textbookfull.com/product/models-for-sustainable-
framework-in-luxury-fashion-luxury-and-models-1st-edition-
subramanian-senthilkannan-muthu-eds/
https://textbookfull.com/product/fundamentals-of-library-
supervision-3rd-edition-beth-mcneil/
https://textbookfull.com/product/the-culinary-crescent-a-history-
of-middle-eastern-cuisine-peter-heine/
https://textbookfull.com/product/killer-high-a-history-of-war-in-
six-drugs-peter-andreas/
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 03/07/16, SPi
LUXURY
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 03/07/16, SPi
‘In this truly “rich history” Peter McNeil and Giorgio Riello show us why luxury
matters, why—in other words—it is not just a concern of the super-rich of past and
present. Their acute and timely book explains the economics and politics of lux-
ury and explores what it has meant in terms of privilege, display, and experience
from ancient times to today. No previous work has tackled this complex and ever-
changing phenomenon with such range and erudition or illustrated it with such a
dazzling array of stories and examples. The book will be indispensable reading
for anyone wishing to understand why the wealthy have always wanted to live
differently and what this has signified for the rest of us.’
Stephen Gundle, author of Glamour: A History
‘Peering into the past through this informed, engaging kaleidoscope has been a
great time travel. Exploring the definitions of luxury both conceptual and mate-
rial as they manifest the zeitgeist of their time. The inherent contradictions of
opulence versus understatement, its elusiveness, its pleasure seeking nature,
objects of desire to be coveted; and how power, privacy and comfort always find
their place in the dialogue on luxury.’
Charlotte Moss, author and interior designer
‘Luxury is a hot topic, not least because there is a lot of money to be made from the
new global luxury consumer. Selling luxury brands rests in part on how we define
the concept of luxury—is it a function of rarity, cost, authenticity, distinction,
excess, pleasure? McNeil and Riello take a completely new, materialistic approach
to luxury, beginning with the objects themselves—and what extraordinary objects
they are! This is an absolutely fascinating book, rich in insights and pleasures.’
Valerie Steele, Director of the Museum at the Fashion
Institute of Technology, New York
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 03/07/16, SPi
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 03/07/16, SPi
1
Great Clarendon Street, Oxford, ox dp
United Kingdom
Oxford University Press is a department of the University of Oxford.
It furthers the University’s objective of excellence in research, scholarship,
and education by publishing worldwide. Oxford is a registered trade mark of
Oxford University Press in the UK and in certain other countries
© Peter McNeil and Giorgio Riello 6
The moral rights of the authors have been asserted
First Edition published in 6
Impression:
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in
a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, without the
prior permission in writing of Oxford University Press, or as expressly permitted
by law, by licence or under terms agreed with the appropriate reprographics
rights organization. Enquiries concerning reproduction outside the scope of the
above should be sent to the Rights Department, Oxford University Press, at the
address above
You must not circulate this work in any other form
and you must impose this same condition on any acquirer
Published in the United States of America by Oxford University Press
Madison Avenue, New York, NY , United States of America
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
Data available
Library of Congress Control Number: 2015954095
ISBN 978–0–19–966324–8
Printed in Great Britain by
Clays Ltd, St Ives plc
Links to third party websites are provided by Oxford in good faith and
for information only. Oxford disclaims any responsibility for the materials
contained in any third party website referenced in this work.
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 03/07/16, SPi
The genesis of the idea for this work came several years ago as we were sitting
around talking during two cold winter Augusts in Sydney. While fashion has
a long history and has now amassed a large body of studies, luxury—we
observed—had received little attention. What seemed to be missing was an
analysis of the meaning and importance of luxury across time.
A decade ago, this issue would have been easily dismissed by arguing
that luxury was either a niche topic—the whimsical choices of the elites—or
of little interest to either serious scholars or the majority of readers. Yet, in
the last few years, luxury has become a ‘hot topic’. In an age of rampant
individualism, of rising economic inequality, and of puritanical attitudes
to social mores, luxury has become commonplace in our daily news
papers, lamenting the vulgarity of the super-rich, in billboards advertis-
ing the same commodities that are supposed to be so vulgar, and in the
general desire to aim for something better, something different, and
something exclusive.
Yet our students have been surprised to learn that debates about luxury
had a long history reaching far back in time and place. The topic of luxury
seemed so connected to the fashion studies and material culture that we
often studied and taught, sometimes using alternate words, that we began
to ask where the ‘luxury debate’ had gone in recent years. We worked on
establishing a research network, which was generously funded by the Lever-
hulme Trust. Over the two years of its activity, the International Network
‘Luxury and the Manipulation of Desire’, coordinated by Giorgio Riello and
Rosa Salzberg at the University of Warwick, allowed collaboration with
Glenn Adamson, Marta Ajmar, Christropher Breward, Jonathan Faiers,
vii
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 03/07/16, SPi
viii
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 03/07/16, SPi
ix
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 03/07/16, SPi
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 03/07/16, SPi
CONTENTS
Notes 294
Select Bibliography 324
Picture Credits 332
Index 335
xi
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 03/07/16, SPi
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 03/07/16, SPi
List of Illustrations
xiii
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 03/07/16, SPi
list of illustrations
xiv
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 03/07/16, SPi
list of illustrations
xv
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 03/07/16, SPi
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 03/02/16, SPi
Introduction
Luxury: A Rich History and
a History of Riches
•
The opposite of luxury is not poverty because in the houses of the poor you can
smell a good ‘pot au feu’. The opposite is not simplicity for there is beauty in the
corn-stall and barn, often great simplicity in luxury, but there is nothing in vul-
garity, its complete opposite.
Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel as told to the photographer Cecil Beaton in 1966.
To ask ‘What is your luxury?’ might appear a banal question. Yet, the very
subject of this book remains elusive. If we ask a group of people what is their
luxury, replies include a wide variety of material artefacts ranging from
branded products to jewellery, fast cars to fancy clothing. Others will
mention gourmet meals, exotic vacations, and spa pampering—immate-
rial luxuries that cannot be put in a vault—or a wardrobe. The younger set
definitely includes the latest technologies and ownership of an apartment
in those cities of spiralling prices. Those who actually can afford or already
own all of these are much more philosophical and recount that their ‘true’
luxury is time (‘quality time’ to be precise), to be spent with friends and
family or in the relaxation of switching off one’s bleeping cellphone—all
‘free luxuries’, but ones difficult to achieve in today’s managerial society.
1
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 03/02/16, SPi
luxury
Coco Chanel, the great couturière of the twentieth century, was cannier
in her reply. For her, luxury was not necessarily something material or
something that could be experienced. To her it was a concept, an idea. Yet,
she resisted telling us what this idea might be, and identified instead its
opposite. That—according to Coco—was neither poverty nor simplicity,
but vulgarity. Both our imagined focused group and Chanel would find
the story that we are going to tell rather surprising, even upsetting. One
wonders, for instance, what Coco made of the fact that—myth or real-
ity—Cleopatra dissolved a pearl worth 10 million sesterces (roughly $15
million in 2015 money) in vinegar, one of the greatest acts of whimsical
luxury consumption in human history?1 This book includes luxuries as
varied as coconut shells, cut flowers, household plumbing, porcelain cups,
buildings that fell down under the weights of their domes, relics, crowns
that could not be worn, fake jewellery, and real pieces of jewellery in the
shape of flower pots. These are clearly not among the ‘top-ten’ luxury
items anyone would mention. Yet they all embodied the best of luxury in
their specific time and place. They gave pleasure—and sometimes also a
great deal of pain—to their owners, makers, and financiers. They were
treasured and handed down, melted or collected, discarded or sent into a
museum’s vault.
We start with a very materialistic approach to luxury and its history as a
counterbalance to the many academic studies that have treated luxury as
an analytical category.2 We are certainly not the first to write about luxury
in history, but our approach is somewhat different, as we wish to place
people and objects at the forefront of our story. There are many excellent
books and articles detailing the importance of the concept of luxury, of the
debates that it raised historically, and of how luxury intersected with
morality, religion, the economy, and society in different periods, from
antiquity to the present day.3 We start instead with the objects themselves,
as we think that they reveal a great deal about the ideas, cultural practices,
2
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 03/02/16, SPi
introduction
3
Another random document with
no related content on Scribd:
edessä ei kestä kallio enempää kuin pehmeät maakerroksetkaan.
Kun pora pannaan pyörivään liikkeeseen, syöpyy rautaputki tuota
pikaa vuoren sisään. Kun se on uponnut oman mittansa, kierretään
sen päähän toinen, samanlainen putki ja tällä tavalla voidaan sitten
jatkaa vaikka satoja jalkoja alaspäin. Rautaputkiston onttoon
sisustaan jääpi tietysti sydän osoittamaan sen vuori- tai
maakerroksen laatua, jonka läpi pora kulloinkin on kulkenut.
Woidaan siis nähdä niinkuin kartasta ainakin, minkälaatuista on
maan sisusta sillä tai sillä syvyydellä.
Toinen Luku.
Salomailla.
Metsä palaa!
Ell'ei väkeä ole riittävästi, ell'ei kulo satu kulkemaan suurta suota
kohden, niin täytyy ihmisten väsyneinä luopua toivottomasta
taistelustaan tuhoavaa luonnonvoimaa vastaan. Täytyy varoa sitäkin,
ett'ei joudu saarroksiin liekkien keskelle. Kangas palaa laajalti,
kunnes rankkasade viimmein tulen sammuttaa.
*****
Jos kaikki hyvin onnistuu, niin saavi peto surmansa lavalla istujan
luodista. "Buljkka bokkah työnnetäh, i siih tilah töllöy." (Luoti kylkeen
työnnetään; siihen paikkaan kuolee.)
*****
Ignoi Wornanen oli eläissään ollut yli 70 karhun tapossa. Susia oli
hän tappanut jonkun kymmenkunnan, ilveksiä noin 400. Parhaan
hiihtoretkensä teki Ignoi v. 1881, jolloin hän poikiensa seurassa
Warsinais-Suomessa kahteen kuukauteen tappoi 22 ilvestä.
Wornaset olivat Suomen senaatin kehoituksesta sinä talvena
lähteneet näille maille susia ajamaan. Mainitut pedot olivat näet
käyneet niin rohkeiksi, että rupesivat lapsia syömään.