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MILADY StAnDArD
®
nAIL tECHnOLOGY
Copyright 2015 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203
This is an electronic version of the print textbook. Due to electronic rights restrictions,
some third party content may be suppressed. Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed
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text may not be available in the eBook version.
MILADY STANDARD
7th Edition
ALISHA RIMANDO BOTERO

JOHN HALAL
MARY ANN KILGORE
JIM MCCONNELL
JANET MCCORMICK
VICKI PETERS
DOUGLAS SCHOON
JERYL SPEAR
NAIL TECHNOLOGY
Australia • Brazil • Mexico • Singapore • United Kingdom • United States
Copyright 2015 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203 i
Milady Standard Nail Technology, © 2015, 2011 Milady, a Part of Cengage Learning
Seventh Edition
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this work covered by the copyright herein
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Printed in the United States of America

4 5 6 7 20 19 18 17 16
Contents in Brief
PART ORIENTATION /1
1
1 History and Career Opportunities /2
2 Life Skills / 13
3 Your Professional Image / 30
4 Communicating for Success / 40
PART GENERAL SCIENCES / 59
2
5 Infection Control: Principles and Practices / 60
6 General Anatomy and Physiology / 102
7 Skin Structure, Growth, and Nutrition / 126
8 Nail Structure and Growth / 152
9 Nail Disorders and Diseases / 160
10 The Basics of Chemistry / 172
11 Nail Product Chemistry Simplified / 186
12 The Basics of Electricity / 201
PART NAIL CARE / 211
3
13 Manicuring / 212
14 Pedicuring / 256
15 Electric Filing / 282
16 Nail Tips and Wraps / 305
17 Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements / 325
18 UV and LED Gels / 354
19 The Creative Touch / 386
PART BUSINESS SKILLS / 419
4
20 Seeking Employment / 420
21 On the Job / 453
22 The Salon Business / 478
Glossary / 503
Index / 521
Contents in Brief
Copyright 2015 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203 iii
Table of Contents
Preface /x
About the Authors / xv
Acknowledgments / xviii
PART ORIENTATION /1
1
1 History and Career Opportunities /2
Why Study the History of Beauty and Nail Technology and Career
Opportunities for Nail Technicians? /4
A Brief History of Cosmetology and Nail Technology /4
Career Paths for Nail Technicians / 10
2 Life Skills / 13
Why Study Life Skills? / 15
Life Skills / 15
Guidelines for Success / 16
© iStockphoto/Thinkstock
Rules for Success / 17
Recognizing and Managing Stress / 18
Motivation and Self-Management / 19
Managing Your Career / 20
Goal Setting / 21
Time Management / 23
Study Skills / 25
Ethics / 26
Personality Development and Attitude / 27
3 Your Professional Image / 30

Why Study the Importance of Your Professional Image? / 32
Beauty and Wellness / 33
Appearance Counts / 34
Your Physical Presentation / 36
4 Communicating for Success / 40

Why Study Communicating for Success? / 42
Human Relations / 43
Communication Basics / 45
The Client Consultation/Needs Assessment / 49
Special Issues in Communication / 52
In-Salon Communication / 55
PART GENERAL SCIENCES / 59
2
5 Infection Control: Principles and Practices / 60
Why Study Infection Control? / 62
Regulation / 63
Principles of Infection / 66
Principles of Prevention / 76
Standard Precautions / 85
The Professional Salon Image / 86
iv Table of Contents
6 General Anatomy and Physiology / 102
Why Study Anatomy and Physiology? / 104
Cells / 105
Tissues / 106
Organs and Body Systems / 107
The Skeletal System / 108
The Muscular System / 110
The Nervous System / 114
The Circulatory System / 118
The Lymphatic/Immune System / 121
The Endocrine System / 122
The Digestive System / 123
The Excretory System / 123
The Respiratory System / 123
The Integumentary System / 124
The Reproductive System / 124
7 Skin Structure, Growth, and Nutrition / 126

Why Study Skin Structure, Growth, and Nutrition? / 128
Anatomy of the Skin / 128
Maintaining Skin Health / 135
Aging of the Skin / 137
Disorders of the Skin / 140
Preventing Skin Problems in the Salon / 146
8 Nail Structure and Growth / 152

Why Study Nail Structure and Growth? / 154
The Natural Nail Unit / 154
Nail Anatomy / 154
Nail Growth / 157
Know Your Nails / 158
9 Nail Disorders and Diseases / 160

Why Study Nail Disorders and Diseases? / 162
Nail Disorders / 162
Nail Diseases / 168
10 The Basics of Chemistry / 172

Why Study Chemistry? / 174
Chemistry / 174
Matter / 175
Potential Hydrogen (pH) / 182
11 Nail Product Chemistry Simplified / 186

Why Study Nail Product Chemistry? / 188
Understanding Chemicals / 188
Adhesion, Adhesives, and Primers / 189
A Clean Start / 190
Fingernail Coatings / 192
The Overexposure Principle / 197
Preventing Inhalation Overexposure / 197
Table of Contents
Copyright 2015 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203 v
12 The Basics of Electricity / 201
Why Study the Basics of Electricity? / 203
Electricity / 203
Electrical Equipment Safety / 207
PART NAIL CARE / 211
3
13 Manicuring / 212
Why Study Manicuring? / 214
State Regulations for Nail Professionals / 214
Nail Technology Tools / 215
Professional Nail Products / 224
The Basic Manicure / 228
A Man’s Manicure Service / 231
Massage / 232
Spa Manicures / 234
Aromatherapy / 236
Paraffin Wax Treatment / 236
Nail Art / 238
Only the Beginning / 238
14 Pedicuring / 256
Why Study Pedicuring? / 258
Pedicure Tools / 259
Professional Pedicure Products / 265
About Pedicures / 266
Disinfection / 273
15 Electric Filing / 282

Why Study Electric Filing? / 284
Types of Electric Files / 285
Battery-Operated Micrometer Machines / 285
Hand-Held Micrometer Machines / 285
Choosing an Electric File / 286
All About Bits / 288
Electric Filing Techniques / 293
Electric Files for Pedicures / 298
Troubleshooting / 298
Safety Tips for Electric Filing / 301
Continuing Education / 301
16 Nail Tips and Wraps / 305

Why Study Nail Tips and Wraps? / 307
Nail Tips / 307
Nail Wraps / 309
Nail Wrap Maintenance, Repair, and Removal / 310
17 Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements / 325

Why Study Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder

Nail Enhancements? / 328
Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail
Enhancement Chemistry / 328
Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancement Supplies / 330
Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancement
Maintenance and Crack Repair / 334
Odorless Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Products / 336
Colored Polymer Powder Products / 336
vi Table of Contents
18 UV and LED Gels / 354
Why Study UV and LED Gels? / 356
Chemistry of UV and LED Gels / 356
UV and LED Gels / 357
UV and LED Gel Supplies / 360
When to Use UV or LED Gels / 361
Choosing the Proper UV or LED Gel / 362
UV and LED Lamps and Bulbs / 362
Gel Polishes / 364
UV and LED Gel Maintenance and Removal / 365
19 The Creative Touch / 386

Why Study Nail Art? / 388
Introducing Clients to Nail Art / 388
Color Theory / 389
Getting the Look: Art Mediums / 390
Polish / 390
Paint / 392
Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Art / 394
UV Gel Nail Art / 395
Embellishments / 396
Airbrushing / 397
Nail Art Competitions / 400
Just the Beginning / 405
PART
4
BUSINESS SKILLS / 419
20 Seeking Employment / 420
Why Study How to Prepare for and Seek Employment? / 422
Preparing for Licensure / 422
Preparing for Employment / 426
Résumé and Cover Letter Development / 431
Employment Portfolio / 436
Preparing for a Job Interview / 437
Doing It Right / 451
21 On the Job / 453

Why Study What It Is Like on the Job? / 455
Moving from School to Work / 455
Out in the Real World / 457
Managing Your Money / 464
Discover the Selling You / 469
Keeping Current Clients and Expanding Your Client Base / 474
On Your Way / 476
22 The Salon Business / 478

Why Study the Salon Business? / 480
Going into Business for Yourself / 481
Operating a Successful Salon / 492
Building Your Business / 499
Selling in the Salon / 500
Glossary / 503
Index / 521
Table of Contents
Copyright 2015 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203 vii
Procedures
■ Procedure 5–1 Cleaning and Disinfecting Nonelectrical
Tools and Equipment / 88
■ Procedure 5–2 Cleaning and Disinfecting Foot Spas or Basins / 90
■ Procedure 5–3 Proper Hand Washing / 98
■ Procedure 5–4 Handling an Exposure Incident During a Manicure / 99
■ Procedure 13–1 Preservice Procedure / 239
■ Procedure 13–2 Postservice Procedure / 242
■ Procedure 13–3 Performing a Basic Manicure / 244
■ Procedure 13–4 Hand and Arm Massage / 248
■ Procedure 13–5 Polishing the Nails / 251
■ Procedure 13–6 Paraffin Wax Treatment / 253
■ Procedure 14–1 Performing a Basic Pedicure / 274
■ Procedure 14–2 Foot and Leg Massage / 278
■ Procedure 15–1 Disinfecting Metal File Bits / 302
■ Procedure 16–1 Nail Tip Application / 312
■ Procedure 16–2 Nail Tip Removal / 315
■ Procedure 16–3 Nail Wrap Application / 316
■ Procedure 16–4 Fabric Wrap Maintenance / 319
■ Procedure 16–5 Fabric Wrap Removal / 322
■ Procedure 17–1 One-Color Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder

Nail Enhancements over Nail Tips or Natural Nails / 338
viii Procedures
■ Procedure 17–2 Two-Color Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder
Nail Enhancements Using Forms / 341
■ Procedure 17–3 One-Color Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Maintenance / 346
■ Procedure 17–4 Crack Repair for Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder
Nail Enhancements / 349
■ Procedure 17–5 Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancement Removal / 351
■ Procedure 18–1 One-Color Method UV or LED Gel on Tips or Natural Nails with
UV or LED Gel Polish / 366
■ Procedure 18–2 Two-Color Method UV or LED Gel on Tips or Natural Nails / 371
■ Procedure 18–3 UV or LED Gel over Forms / 374
■ Procedure 18–4 UV and LED Gel Maintenance / 377
■ Procedure 18–5 UV or LED Gel over Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder
Nail Enhancements with UV or LED Gel Polish / 380
■ Procedure 18–6 UV and LED Gel Removal—Hard Gel / 382
■ Procedure 18–7 UV and LED Gel Removal—Soft Gel or Gel Polishes / 383
■ Procedure 19–1 The French Manicure Using Polish / 406
■ Procedure 19–2 Animal Print Design Using Paint / 408
■ Procedure 19–3 3-D Flower Design Using Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder / 410
■ Procedure 19–4 Confetti Inlaid Design Using UV Gel / 412
■ Procedure 19–5 Crystal Art on Polish Using Embellishments / 414
■ Procedure 19–6 Two-Color Fade or Color Graduation Using an Airbrush / 416

Procedures
Copyright 2015 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203 ix
Preface
■ TO THE STUDENT
Congratulations! You have chosen a career filled with unlimited potential, one
that can take you in many directions and holds the possibility to make you a
confident, successful professional. As a nail professional, you will play a vital role
in the lives of your clients. Your clients will come to rely on you to provide them
with ongoing service, helping them to look and feel their best.
According to Nails magazine industry statistics, in 2013, professional nail
technicians performed more than 7.5 billion dollars’ worth of manicuring, pedi-
curing, and nail enhancement services for millions of fashion-conscious clients
in the United States. The business of nails continues to progress and grow with
new breakthroughs in product technologies, application techniques, and business
strategy. The need for educated and competent nail technicians is expanding in
the same way. Milady Standard Nail Technology, 7th edition, is the complete first
step to basic nail technology that all professional nail technicians need to kick
off their career.
You are fortunate because you will learn from gifted instructors who will
share their skills and experiences with you. You will meet other industry profes-
sionals at seminars, workshops, and conventions where you will learn the latest
techniques, specific product knowledge, and management procedures. All of
the experiences in which you have the opportunity to participate will provide
you with additional insights into the profession you have chosen. You will build a
network of professionals to turn to for career advice, opportunity, and direction.
Whatever direction you choose, we wish you a successful and enjoyable journey!
■ TO THE INSTRUCTOR
This seventh edition of Milady Standard Nail Technology was prepared with the
help of many instructors and professionals. Milady surveyed instructors, prac-
ticing nail professionals, and state board officials from across the United States
and received in-depth comments from a host of experts to learn what needed
to be changed, added, or deleted from the previous edition.
Milady Standard Nail Technology, 7th edition, contains new and updated
information on many subjects, including infection control, product chemistry,
manicuring, pedicuring, electric filing, monomer liquid and polymer powder
nail enhancements, and UV and LED gels. Chapter 19, The Creative Touch, is
loaded with the latest nail art mediums and techniques.
As instructors you asked Milady to make your job easier by aligning over-
lapping content between Milady Standard Nail Technology and Milady Standard
Cosmetology, and we listened! This alignment includes the following chapters:
Cosmetology
History and Opportunities; Life Skills; Your Professional Image; Communicating
for Success; Infection Control: Principles and Practices; General Anatomy and
Physiology; Skin Structure, Growth, and Nutrition; Nail Structure and Growth; Nail
Disorders and Diseases; The Basics of Chemistry; The Basics of Electricity; Seek
Seek-
ing Employment; On the Job, Business Skills; Manicuring; Pedicuring; Monomer
Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements; and UV Gels. We also listened
when you asked for photographs and art that depict nail technicians performing
x Preface
their work and serving their clients; we conducted a 6-day photo shoot to update
more than 230 pieces of art throughout the book, including procedural art.
■ FEATURES OF THIS EDITION

In response to your needs, this exciting new edition of Milady Standard Nail
Technology, 7th edition, includes the following features:
• Chapters and Parts. The book is organized into 22 chapters and four
1
History and Career
parts—making it is very easy to use. Opportunities
•
1
Chapter Outline
Full-Color Art. All art is in full color, with brand-new photographs to show • Why Study the History of Beauty and Nail
Technology and Career Opportunities
for Nail Technicians?
• A Brief History of Cosmetology and Nail
Technology
you step-by-step procedures for manicuring, pedicuring, tips and wraps,

• Career Paths for Nail Technicians
electric filing, monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements,

UV gels, and a completely new basic nail art.
© Valua Vitaly/www.Shutterstock.com
Orientation
•
© iStockphoto/Deborah Cheramie
Learning Objectives and Review Questions. Learning objectives provide History
and Career
CHAPTER 1
Opportunities
Your Professional Image
2
CHAPTER 3
CHAPTER 4
Chapter 1
measurable outcomes-based goals for the students in each chapter.

Communicating for Success
CHAPTER 2
Life Skills
These objectives are reinforced by review questions that assess how well Part 1 Orientation Orientation
1
the student has mastered the goals established in the learning objectives.
• Actual Photos of Skin and Nail Disorders and Diseases. Full-color photos ■ Review Questions
are included to help students identify skin and nail disorders and diseases
1. What are the origins of personal beautification? 3. What are some of the career opportunities avail-
2. What are some of the advancements that were able to licensed nail technicians?
made in nail technology during the twentieth
and early twenty-first centuries?
more accurately. Learning Objectives
•
After completing this chapter, you will be able to:
LO1
Client Consultation Guidelines. A complete chapter focuses on client

Explain the origins of personal beautification.
LO2 Discuss the advancements made in nail

technology during the twentieth and early
twenty-first centuries.
LO3 List several career opportunities available to

a licensed nail technician.
consultation and gives suggestions for identifying and meeting the
© Digital Vision/Thinkstock
needs of each individual client. Key Terms
Page number indicates where in the chapter the term is used.
cosmetology / 4
•
nail technology / 4
Chemical Safety Coverage. A complete chapter is devoted to the important 12
topic of chemical safety in the nail salon. Students will learn to identify the
© Kamira/www.Shutterstock.com Chapter 1 History and Career Opportunities
chemicals commonly used in the nail salon, how they can cause harm, how Part 1 Orientation 3
to protect themselves and their clients, and how to read Safety Data Sheets
(SDSs) (formerly known as Material Safety Data Sheets [MSDSs]).
• State Licensing Exam Topics.
Topics The topics required for state licensing 6 7 8
examinations are presented in a complete, easy-to-read fashion. 6

Press and smooth the enhancement
product to fill the crack. Be careful
not to let the product seep under the
7
Apply additional beads, if needed, to
fill in the crack or reinforce the rest of
the nail. Shape the enhancement and
allow it to harden.
8
Remove the form, if used.
• Procedure 17-4
Reshape the nail enhancement using Buff the nail enhancement until it is Clean nails before application of nail
9 10 smooth. Remove the dust and apply
11 polish or gel sealant.
oil to the enhancement and sur-
Safety Cautions.
Cautions Highlighted safety cautions alert students to services
rounding skin. Wash the client’s hand
and nails with soap and water. Apply
hand cream and massage the hand
Crack Repair for Monomer Liquid and and arm.
Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements12
that include potentially dangerous procedures. These cautions explain IMPLEMENTS AND MATERIALS
In addition to the basic materials on your manicuring table, you will need the following supplies for the Crack Repair for
Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements Procedure:
•
•
Nail dehydrator
Nail primer
•
•
Monomer liquid
Polymer powder
•
•
Dappen dishes
Abrasives
how to avoid dangerous situations and how to provide services in a safe,

• Nail forms • Application brushes
Preparation 12
Copyright © 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. Photography by Dino Petrocelli.
Refer to Procedure 13–1, Preservice Procedure.
Procedure Postservice
clean environment.
Apply nail dehydrator to any exposed , Postservice Procedure. LO6
1 2 natural nail in the crack.
3
• Tips. These tips provide hints on the most efficient and effective ways to
Remove the existing polish or gel seal- Apply nail primer to any exposed
1 ant. File a V shape into the crack or file
3 natural nail in the crack.
Copyright © 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. Photography by Dino Petrocelli.
flush to remove crack. File more than

just the crack for extra protection. 350 Chapter 1 Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements
Prepare the monomer liquid and

4 5 5 polymer powder. Pick up one or more
small beads of the product and apply
complete step-by-step procedures and help students improve their nail

them to the cracked area. If you are
using the two-color system, be sure
to use the correct color of polymer
powder.
If the crack needs support, apply a

4 nail form.
technology skills.
Part 3 Nail Care 349
• Regulatory Agency Alerts. Because state regulations vary, regulatory

agency alerts remind students to check with their instructors for specific
regulations in their state.
• Business Tips. These tips help nail technicians improve their business
relations to achieve complete customer satisfaction.
Preface
Copyright 2015 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203 xi
However, if someone calls to ask for an appointment with a particular nail
technician on a particular day and time, every effort should be made to accom-
modate the client’s request. If the nail technician is not available at the time the
client requests, there are several ways to handle the situation:
• Suggest other times that the nail technician is available.
• Application Tips. These tips give additional insight to nail technicians as
they perform the service procedures.
• If the client cannot come in at any of those times, suggest that another
nail technician provide the service for this visit.
• If the client is unwilling to try another nail technician, offer to call the cli-
ent if there is a cancellation at the desired time.
•
WEB RESOURCES This chapter provides a general overview of the
complex issues involved in salon and spa ownership. There are many
Web Resources. Throughout the text, the reader will be directed to a variety
resources on the Internet for further study. The Web sites listed here are a
good start.
Design Advice on business topics from A
http://www.beautydesign.com to Z as well as, business resources
Click on Design Center to view see for accounting, sales, marketing,
various salon layouts and to see salon technology, and more.
photos from all over the world. http://www.isquare.com
of useful and informational Web sites that they can use in and out of school.
Human Resources The Small Business Advisor — Provides
http://www.dol.gov/compliance/guide information on starting and operating
Look through this Employment Law a small business.
Guide from U.S. Department of Labor’s http://www.salonbuilder.com
Web site. Search for: employment law Information on starting a salon.
guide
http://www.smallbusinessnotes.com
http://www.eeoc.gov Various business-related articles.
Research relevant equal employment
http://www.strategies.com
opportunity regulations; check out the
The source for salon business growth
compliance manual.
seminars, training, and coaching.
http://hr.blr.com
Human Resources – Business and legal Salon Software
reports related to human resources. http://www.shortcuts.net
Find a forum, dozens of topics, and http://www.salonbiz.com
regulations by state. http://www.http://www.saloniris.
comsalon2K.com
Small Business Ownership
http://www.salon-software.com
and Operation
http://www.business.com
Handling Complaints by Telephone

Handling complaints, particularly over the phone, is a difficult task. The caller is
probably upset and short-tempered. Respond with self-control, tact, and cour-
■ SUPPLEMENTS FOR THE STUDENT

tesy, no matter how trying the circumstances. Only then will the caller be made
to feel that she has been treated fairly.
498 Chapter 22 The Salon Business
AND INSTRUCTOR
Milady Standard Nail Technology, 7th Edition, features these supplements:
Available Translations
• SPANISH TRANSLATED MILADY STANDARD NAIL TECHNOLOGY CORE
TEXTBOOK
o A Spanish translation of the core textbook
• SPANISH STUDY RESOURCE FOR MILADY STANDARD NAIL TECHNOLOGY
o A Spanish translation of the student Workbook and the Exam Review
• VIETNAMESE TRANSLATED STUDY SUMMARY FOR MILADY STANDARD NAIL
TECHNOLOGY
o This translated text includes the chapters most requested by nail tech schools
with significant Vietnamese student populations, including Infection Con-
trol; Nail Disorders and Diseases; Nail Structure, Growth, and Nutrition;
Manicuring; Pedicuring; Electric Filing; Nail Tips; and Wraps; UV Gels; The
Creative Touch (nail art); and the glossary of key terms and definitions from
the core textbook.
o Exam review questions in Vietnamese
Milady Standard Nail Technology Workbook

This interactive workbook provides students with exercises, problems to solve,
ideas to think about, and resolutions to create that will engage their interest
and contemplative skills. The four-color workbook includes short-answer and
short essay questions; sentence completion, matching, definition, and labeling
activities; crossword puzzles; and word review activities. The workbook also
includes tips on preparing for the practical exam.
Milady Standard Nail Technology Student

Exam Review
This student book of exam reviews contains multiple-choice-type questions
similar to those found on state nail technology licensing exams. Questions are
arranged in groups under major subject areas.
xii Preface
New Student Supplement: Milady Standard
Nail Technology Coursemate
CourseMate is an online tool that combines classroom management with
interactive student tools. CourseMate provides instructors with all the reporting
tools they need to track student engagement, while students access interactive
study tools in a dynamic, online learning environment.
Get Started with Coursemate:

1. Students receive a Printed Access Card that contains a code and instruc-
tions for accessing their course.
2. Instructors set up free access to CourseMate through Milady.
3. Through a simple process, instructors set up a unique course key to share
with their students that will enable the engagement tracker to begin
tracking each student’s activity.
Component 1 Component 2 Component 3

Student Learning
Interactive eBook Pathway Engagement Tracker
Features highlighting, Includes Chapter Prep- A Web-based reporting
note taking, book aration, Study Notes, and tracking tool that
marking, and in-text Audio Glossary, Flash allows the instructor
search so that students Cards, Quizzes, Videos, to see each student’s
can immediately jump Crossword Puzzles, and progress across all of
to the section they Games. Each of these the activities. View an
need to reference. activities is reported individual student’s
directly to the Engage- progress through each
ment Tracker so that of the tools, including
the instructor is aware time spent and, where
of the student’s applicable, grades and
progress. completion percent-
age. Also, view a class
as a whole and imme-
diately identify the stu-
dents that need help.
Preface
Copyright 2015 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203 xiii
Milady Standard Nail Technology Course
Management Guide on CD
This step-by-step, simple-to-use course guide has been designed specifically
to help the nail technology instructor set up and operate a successful nail
technology training program. It includes:
• Guidelines for starting and implementing a nail technology program
• Detailed lesson plans for each chapter in the book along with a chapter test
• Learning reinforcement ideas or activities that can be implemented in
the nail technology classroom
• Answers to review questions at the end of each textbook chapter and
answers to the Milady Standard Nail Technology Workbook
• A computerized test bank for instant creation of review tests with answer keys
• An image library that includes all images in the text for use as handouts
or in PowerPoint® presentations
Milady Standard Nail Technology Instructor

Support Slides
The Instructor Support Slides contain a complete PowerPoint® presentation
for every textbook chapter along with a new interactive feature of audio
pronunciation for difficult terminology.
Milady Standard Nail Technology DVD Series

This ALL NEW DVD series brings to life complete coverage of the practical
applications of the textbook. This series will enhance classroom learning and is
essential for remedial work and individual learning.
Instructor Website for Milady Standard

Nail Technology
This new instructor Web site contains all the content an instructor needs in one
password-protected Web site. The instructor Web site includes the materials
found in the following individual products:
• The Course Management Guide on CD
• The Instructor Support Slides
• Answers to the English and Spanish workbooks
xiv Preface
About the Authors
■ ALISHA RIMANDO BOTERO
Alisha Rimando Botero is recognized as one of the nail industry’s leading
experts in training and education. In her first 2 years as an educator, she taught
classes in over 100 beauty schools and vo-techs across the United States. In her
14 years of experience, Botero’s work has been described as “groundbreaking”;
she has been a platform artist and motivational speaker for more than 1,500
promotional and educational events. She has competed in over 100 nail com-
petitions around the globe, winning a World Championship in 2005. Botero
Photo courtesy of Alisha Rimando Botero

has worked with R&D chemists to develop artificial nail enhancement prod-
ucts, nanotechnology skin care and cuticle treatments, polish collections, and
natural nail treatments. One of her innovative product lines was awarded an
industry ABBIE for best packaging, and several others have been recognized
with readers’ choice awards for best products.
As executive vice president and creative director of Artistic Nail Design,
Botero continues to challenge herself and her team to create high-quality
products and superior education for the professional nail market.
■ JOHN HALAL
John Halal began his career in the beauty industry as a hairstylist over 43 years
ago. He is a licensed cosmetology instructor, a former salon and school owner,
and currently the director of education at Tricoci University of Beauty Culture.
Halal is an affiliate member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) and the
treasurer of Beauty Changes Lives (BCL). He is the immediate past president
of the American Association of Cosmetology Schools (AACS) and the current
president of the Indiana Cosmetology and Barbering Association (ICBA). John
Photo courtesy of John Halal

is the author of Hair Structure and Chemistry Simplified and Milady Hair Care and
Product Ingredient Dictionary. He is also a contributor to the Milady Standard
Cosmetology Textbook and several other Milady publications. Halal obtained
his associate’s degree, with highest distinction, from Indiana University. He is a
member of the Golden Key National Honor Society and Alpha Sigma Lambda.
He has authored numerous articles on a wide variety of topics and been
published in several professional trade magazines. He often travels as a guest
speaker to address both professional and consumer groups.
■ MARY ANN KILGORE

Mary Ann Kilgore holds a B.A. in psychology and a M.A. in industrial organiza-
tional psychology. She is a licensed cosmetologist. After graduating from high
school, she followed her passion for beauty and enrolled in cosmetology school.
She opened a full-service salon just 5 years after graduating. With salon owner-
Photo courtesy of Mike Steele
ship experience and over a dozen years of dedication as a hair designer, she can
clearly relate to the role of being a manager in a creative industry. Kilgore has
a thirst for learning; while working in the salon during the day, she attended
college and earned her master’s degree in psychology in 2001. She transitioned
her career into a corporate role and still maintained a small clientele.
About the Authors

Copyright 2015 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203 xv
With more than 15 years of training development and facilitation
experience, Kilgore has designed and delivered a wide range of learning
solutions for teams in areas such as finance, human resources, customer
service, operations, manufacturing, and the beauty industry. She has also
managed a team of beauty consultants in a leading retail beauty store. She
now holds a position as a salon consultant for a national beauty product
company and works as a nail technologist.
Photo courtesy of Jim McConnell, McConnell Labs, Inc.
■ JIM MCCONNELL
Jim McConnell received his B.S. in chemistry from the University of Oregon
in 1986. He has been a chemist in the field of polymers since 1988. After
graduating from the University of Oregon, he worked as a catalytic chemist
in the petroleum industry and as a urethane and epoxy chemist in the wood
products, concrete coating, and steel coating industries for 12 years. He and
his wife, Lezlie, founded McConnell Labs, Inc., in 1998, making Light Elegance
Nail Products for their salon in Eugene, Oregon. They soon began selling the
UV gel products internationally. McConnell has contributed to numerous nail
technology magazines around the world to answer questions, contribute
Photo courtesy of Janet McCormick, MS, Nail Technician, Esthetician and Author, Frostproof, FL
chemistry, and explain UV light technology. He has served on the board of

various committees for SSPC (Steel Structures Painting Council) and NACE
(National Association of Corrosion Engineers).
■ JANET MCCORMICK, MS, CIDESCO

Janet McCormick is a licensed and experienced esthetician and manicurist, a
sought-after trainer, a former spa director, and the former owner of success-
ful salons. The author of three books, she has also contributed chapters to the
industry’s leading textbooks for two specialties and written hundreds of highly
respected articles in the beauty industry trade magazines.
McCormick is co-owner of Medinail Learning Center, which provides two
certifications—the Advanced Nail Technician certification program for salon-
based nail technicians and the Medical Nail Technician certification, a program
to prepare nail technicians to work in podiatry offices. She is also owner of Spa
Techniques, a consulting and training firm, and writes under that banner.
■ VICKI PETERS
As a nail technician, Vicki Peters has wowed the industry with her championship
nails. As a cover artist and author, her work has been published worldwide
more than any other tech in the history of the nail business. As an educator, she
has trained techs from Russia, Germany, Japan, Ireland, the United Kingdom,
Canada, Mexico, Africa, Australia, and the United States. As an industry leader,
she has mentored thousands and pioneered the industry to new levels. Peters
is a 31-year veteran nail technician, past competition champion, judge and
competition director, technical educator, and featured business speaker. She
Photo courtesy of Vicki Peters
is also author of the Milady Nails Q&A Book, Drilltalk, The Competitive Edge, and
Novartis’ Nail Healthy Guide. Her nail artistry has been on the covers of TV Guide,
Dayspa, Nails, Nailpro, Nailpro Europe, and numerous fashion magazines. Her
expertise in the nail business ranges from salon work and hands-on technical
experience to R&D, education, and lecturing worldwide.
xvi About the Authors

■ DOUGLAS SCHOON
Doug Schoon has over 30 years of experience as a research scientist, international
lecturer, author, and educator; he has become a recognized authority in the
professional beauty industry. He led Creative Nail Design’s (CND) research and
development program for 19 years, and for the last 6 years has been president
of his own consulting firm, Schoon Scientific. He works as a strong advocate
for salon safety and represents the professional nail industry on scientific and
Photo courtesy of Doug Schoon

technical issues in the United States, Europe, Canada, Australia, and Japan.
Schoon is the author of several books and video and audio training programs
as well as hundreds of articles about salon chemicals, chemical safety, and
disinfection. As a writer and speaker, he is applauded for his ability to make
complex theories and concepts seem interesting and easy to understand. His
latest book, Nail Structure & Product Chemistry, Second Edition, Cengage Learning,
is also considered an excellent resource for nail professionals. Currently, Schoon
is a co-chair of the Nail Manufacturers Council (NMC) of the Professional Beauty
Association (PBA).
■ JERYL E. SPEAR
Jeryl Spear is a veteran stylist and previous salon owner who perfected her
craft over a 20-year stint in the beauty business. After spending 4 years as
executive editor of Beauty Launchpad, in 2011 Jeryl became the editor in chief
Photo courtesy of Jeryl Spear

and creative director of HOT beauty magazine, a leading trade publication
(print and digital) that focuses on all specialties within the professional-beauty
industry (http://www.hot.hairshow.us).
■ PREVIOUS EDITION CONTRIBUTORS

DEBORAH BEATTY
JEWELL CUNNINGHAM
CATHERINE M. FRANGIE
LIN HALPERN
LACINDA HEADINGS
NANCY KING HEUPEL
TERRI LUNDBERG
GODFREY F. MIX, D.P.M.
LAURA J. MIX
REBECCA MORAN
JACQUELINE OLIPHANT
SUE ELLEN SCHULTES
About the Authors

Copyright 2015 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203 xvii
Acknowledgments
The Milady staff and the contributors wish to acknowledge the many individuals
and organizations who helped shape the seventh edition of Milady Standard
Nail Technology. Their input enabled us to produce a book that will be a valuable
resource for both students and professionals in the field of nail technology.
We extend our sincere thanks and appreciation to all those who contributed to
this edition.
■ SPECIAL THANKS TO:

• Entity 1 Gel Technology (http://www.entitybeauty.com)
• Atwood Industries (http://www.atwoodindustries.net)
• Medicool, Inc. (http://www.medicool.com). Special thanks to Steve
Wallace for supplying the images of electric bits for Chapter 15.
• KUPA, Inc. (http://www.kupainc.com)
• Josephine (Pina) More for her fantastic job on the photo shoot, her
perfect technical skills, and her unwavering energy and professionalism.
• Jeff Cardarella, president, Aerovex Systems, Inc. for providing the nail
salon ventilation equipment.
• Tony VU, nail artist of Bella Moda, Clifton Park, NY, for his extraordinary
nail art creations featured throughout the book.
• Danielle Klahr, Inside Out Beauty Consulting, Latham, NY, for applying
her professionalism, expertise, and technique knowledge.
• Thom Cammer, makeup artist, Guilderland, NY
• Amy Elizabeth Smith, makeup artist, for her incredible makeup designs
on our models.
• Debra Windus, The Burmax Company, Inc., Holtsville, NY, for her tre-
mendous help in gathering all of the supplies for our photo shoot.
• Jean Claude and his team from Jean Paul Day Spa and Hair Salons,
Albany, NY (www.jeanpaulspa.com). Jean Claude welcomed the Milady
staff for a full day of shooting. Special thanks to Shannon Grady, Kathleen
Dewy, Morgan Duke, Ashley Junco, and Debra Beaudoin for all of their
assistance.
• The nail art and hand models for their patience and dedication: Shirley
Arensberg, Tunika Beard, Kimberly Cardona, Samantha Cook, Stephanie
Ferretti, Danielle Klahr, Marchelle Milkes, Greg Rayno, Jr., Patricia Reilly,
Bob Resnick, Sheena Salone, Nisha Thomas, and Rosie Vu.
• Bryan Durocher, president, Durocher Enterprises Inc.
• Nails Magazine
• Manx National Heritage
• The Rome Nail Academy
• Catherine Wong, Ecsalonce
xviii Acknowledgments
• Viv Simmonds, VIVid Nail & Beaute Salon
• Cindy Davis
• Nails made by Massimiliano Braga
• Noble Nails by Louise Callaway
• LCN / Wilde Cosmetics GmbH
• Emilio (http://www.emilio-online.com)
■ SEVENTH EDITION REVIEWERS

Barbara Acello, Innovations in Health Care, Denton, TX
Frances L. Archer, MHSA, the Nail Clinic School of Manicuring, Columbia, SC
Melanie Beachy, Carriage Court Salon, Plain City, OH
Ami Barth, Bellevue, KY
Melinda T. Borrego, Marinello School of Beauty, North Granby, CT
Yota Botsaras, salon owner, Cypress, CA
Suzanne Casabella, NYS-licensed nail technician and esthetician, Coxsackie, NY
Lisa W. Crawford, Bellafonte Academy of Beauty, Maysville, KY
JoAnn DiPrete, Ultronics, Copley, OH
Lauren Gellar, Evergreen Beauty College, Marysville, WA
Shari Golightly, owner/cosmetologist/RCMT/Reiki master, Greeley, CO
Jennifer Hain, Columbia Montour Area Vocational Technical School, Middleburg, PA
John Halal, Honors Beauty College, Inc., Indianapolis, IN
Donna Haynes, Houston Training School, Missouri City, TX
Cindy Heidemann, ABC School of Cosmetology, Esthetics, & Nail Technology,
Inc., Lake in the Hills, IL
Meg King, Spa Solas by Meg & Company, Ardmore, PA
Susan Kolar, David Pressley Professional School of Cosmetology, Transitions
School of Cosmetology Careers, Armada, MI
Lori Manicho, YourNewSchool, Amlin, OH
Yolanda Matthews, the Cosmetology Connection & Consulting Services,
Houston, TX
Janet McCormick, Frostproof, FL
Lauria Mullins, Leander ISD, Georgetown, TX
Darlene Ray, Miller-Motte Technical College, Ooltewah, TN
Leslie Roste, director of education, King Research, Prairie Village, KS
Cheryl Simkins-Anderson, Jean Paul Salon & Day Spa, Albany, NY
Vickie Servais, New Horizons Regional Education Center, Hampton, VA
Robert Spalding, DPM, MediNail Learning Center, Signal Mtn., TN
Donna Simmons, Tulsa Tech, Collinsville, OK
Madeline Udod, Eastern Suffolk BOCES (retired), Farmingville, NY
Kimberly Cutter-Williams, M.Ed., Savannah Technical College, Savannah, GA
Acknowledgments
Copyright 2015 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203 xix
■ PHOTO SHOOT LOCATIONS:
• Austin’s School of Spa Technology, Albany, NY
• CNY Healing Arts Wellness Center & Spa, Latham, NY
• Jean Paul Spa & Salons, Albany and Latham, NY
• Kimberley’s… A Day Spa, Ltd., Latham, NY
■ PHOTOGRAPHERS:
• Joseph Schuyler Photography, Albany, NY
[email protected]
• Dino Petrocelli, professional photographer, Albany, NY

(http://www.dinopetrocelli.com)
• Paul Castle, Castle Photography, Inc., Troy, NY

(http://www.castlephotographyinc.com)
• Michael Dzaman Photography © Michael Dzaman/Dzaman Photography

(http://www.dzamanphoto.com)
xx Acknowledgments
1
© Valua Vitaly/www.Shutterstock.com
OrientationCHAPTER 1 CHAPTER 3
History Your Professional Image
and Career
CHAPTER 4
Opportunities
Communicating for Success
CHAPTER 2
Life Skills
Part 1 Orientation Orientation

1
1
History and Career
Opportunities
Chapter Outline
• Why Study the History of Beauty and Nail
Technology and Career Opportunities
for Nail Technicians?
• A Brief History of Cosmetology and Nail
Technology
• Career Paths for Nail Technicians
© iStockphoto/Deborah Cheramie
2 Chapter 1
Learning Objectives
LO1 Explain the origins of personal beautification.
LO2 Discuss the advancements made in nail

technology during the twentieth and early
twenty-first centuries.
LO3 List several career opportunities available to

a licensed nail technician.
© Digital Vision/Thinkstock
Key Terms
cosmetology / 4
nail technology / 4
© Kamira/www.Shutterstock.com
Part 1 Orientation
Copyright 2015 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203 3
Cosmetology is a term used to encompass a broad range of beauty specialties,
including hairstyling, nail technology, and esthetics. It is the art and science of
beautifying and improving the nails, hair, and skin and the study of cosmetics
and their applications. In this text, we will primarily focus on nail technology,
which is defined as “the art and science of beautifying and improving the nails
and skin of the hands and feet.”
WHY STUDY THE HISTORY OF BEAUTY

AND NAIL TECHNOLOGY AND CAREER
OPPORTUNITIES FOR NAIL TECHNICIANS?
Nail technicians should have a thorough understanding of the history of
beauty and nail technology as well as career opportunities available, because:
❱ Knowing the history of your profession can help you predict and
understand upcoming trends.
❱ Learning about the many different nail care services will help broaden your
offerings or assist you in developing one or more specialties within your
practice.
❱ Learning about the many possible career paths will help you see the wide
range of opportunities open to nail technicians.
■ A BRIEF HISTORY OF COSMETOLOGY

AND NAIL TECHNOLOGY
Personal beautification dates back to the dawn of history, with each subsequent
period contributing new approaches to beautifying the hair, skin, and nails.
While scientists and beauty visionaries in the twenty-first century have
made many breakthroughs in beauty products, even they have been heavily
influenced by past uses and achievements.
© iStockphoto/Valentin Casarsa
4 Chapter 1 History and Career Opportunities

The Egyptians
The Egyptians were the first to cultivate beauty in an extravagant fashion and
to use cosmetics as part of their personal beautification habits, religious
ceremonies, and burial preparations. In fact, as early as 3000 B.C., Egyptians
used minerals, insects, and berries to create makeup for their eyes, lips, and
skin and henna to stain their hair and nails a rich, warm red. In Ancient
Egypt and during the Roman Empire, military commanders stained
their nails and lips in matching colors before important battles.
Queen Nefertiti (circa 1400 B.C.) used a henna paste to stain her
nails a deep red, wore lavish makeup designs, and used custom-
blended essential oils as signature scents. Queen Cleopatra (circa
50 B.C.), who preferred a rust-red nail hue, took this dedication to
beauty to an entirely new level by erecting a personal cosmetics
factory next to the Dead Sea.
© Vladimir Wrangel/www.Shutterstock.com
The Chinese
History shows that during the Shang Dynasty (1600 B.C.), Chinese aristocrats
rubbed a tinted mixture of gum arabic, gelatin, beeswax, and egg whites onto
their nails to turn them crimson or ebony. Throughout the Chou Dynasty
(1100 B.C.), gold and silver nails were strictly reserved for royal family mem-
bers. In fact, during this early period in history, nail tinting was so closely tied
to social status that commoners who were caught wearing the royal nail colors
faced a punishment of death. Extraordinarily long nails were also a status symbol
of the ancient Chinese elite. Some even wore gold, jewel-adorned nail guards to
protect against damaging their lengthy symbols of wealth and leisure.
The Greeks
During the Golden Age of Greece (beginning in 500 B.C.), hairstyling became a
highly developed art. The ancient Greeks also made lavish use of perfumes and
cosmetics in their religious rites, in grooming, and for medicinal purposes. They
built elaborate baths and developed excellent methods of dressing the hair and
caring for the skin and nails.
Greek soldiers often applied red color their lips and nails red when preparing
for battle. Greek women used white lead powder on their faces, kohl on their eyes,
and ground cinnabar—a brilliant red mineral that is a chief source of mercury—
on their cheeks and lips. Interestingly, these powder and ointment preparations
represent the basis of many cosmetic formulations still in use today.
The Romans
Celebrating the power of cosmetics to beautify one’s appearance, Roman
philosopher Plautus (254–184 B.C.) wrote, “A woman without paint is like
© Heather L. Jones/www.Shutterstock.com
food without salt.” Roman women used a mixture of chalk and white lead
to powder their complexions. They also used hair color to indicate their
class status: noblewomen colored their hair red, middle-class women
colored their hair blond, and poor women colored their hair black.
Both men and women used sheep blood mixed with fat to add
color to their nails.
Part 1 Orientation
The Middle Ages
The Middle Ages is the period in European history that falls between classical
antiquity and the Renaissance, beginning with the downfall of Rome in A.D. 476
and lasting until about 1450. Many tapestries, sculptures, and other artifacts
from this period show towering headdresses, intricate hairstyles, and the use of
cosmetics on the skin and hair. Women wore colored makeup on their cheeks
and lips, but not on their eyes or nails.
The Renaissance
During the Renaissance period (A.D. 1450–1600), Western civilization made the
transition from medieval to modern history. Paintings and written records tell
us a great deal about the grooming practices throughout this period. Both men
and women wore elaborate clothing and used fragrances and cosmetics, al-
though highly colored preparations for the lips, cheeks, eyes, and nails were
discouraged. They may have avoided colored nail cosmetics, but wealthy peo-
ple manicured their nails. Archeological digs have uncovered cosmetic tools
from the Renaissance period, including nail cleaners—some doubling as ear
scoops—made of bone or metal in a wide variety of designs.
The Victorian Age

The reign of Queen Victoria of England (A.D. 1837–1901) was known as the Victorian
Age. Fashions in dress and personal grooming were drastically influenced by the
social customs of this austere period in history. To preserve the health and beauty
of the skin, women used beauty masks and packs made from honey, eggs, milk,
oatmeal, fruits, vegetables, and other natural ingredients. Rather than use cos-
metics such as rouges or lip stains, Victorian women pinched their cheeks and
bit their lips to induce natural color. Nails were sometimes tinted with red oil and
then buffed with a chamois cloth. LO1
© Hemera/Thinkstock
The Twentieth Century
In the early twentieth century, the invention of motion pictures coincided with
an abrupt shift in American attitudes. As viewers saw pictures of celebrities with
flawless complexions, beautiful hairstyles, and manicured nails, the standards
of feminine beauty began to change. This era also signaled the onset of indus-
trialization, which brought a new prosperity to the United States. Beauty appli-
cations began to follow the trends set by celebrities and society figures.
1901 to 1919
1904: Max Factor began manufacturing and selling makeup to movie stars that
wouldn’t cake or crack, even under hot studio lights.
© SASIMOTO/www.Shutterstock.com
1910: Flowery Manicure Products introduced the first emery board that is nearly
identical to the emery boards used today.
1917: Women massaged commercial powders,
pastes, and creams onto their nails and then
buffed them to a gleaming finish. One such
polishing paste was Graf’s Hyglo Nail Polish
Paste. Some women applied a clear varnish to
their nails with a very small camel hair brush.

1920s
The cosmetics industry grew exponentially. Cosmetics
advertising in magazines swelled from $2.5 million in
1915 to $25 million in 1925. The total sales of cosmetics
and toiletries mushroomed from $8.6 million in 1909, to
$33.5 million in 1920.
© iStockphoto/hlphoto
1930s
In 1932, inspired by a new, opaque paint that was being
produced for the automobile industry, Charles Revson mar-
keted the first successful nail lacquer brand in a variety of colors. This
beauty milestone marked a dramatic shift in nail cosmetics, as every woman
literally had an array of nail polish colors at her fingertips. Early screen sirens
Jean Harlow and Gloria Swanson glamorized this hip new nail lacquer trend by
appearing in films wearing matching polish on their fingers and toes.
1940s
The aerosol can was invented, eventually leading to the marketing of the first
hair sprays in 1948. Shiny lips also came into vogue for the first time when wom-
en began applying petroleum jelly over their lipstick. Nail polish applications
omitted the moon at the base of the nail and sometimes did not include the
tip of the nail.
1950s
The 1950s saw the introduction of tube mascara,
improved hair care and nail products, and the boom
and then death of the weekly manicure appointment.
In the early 1950s, red nail lacquer was extremely popular,
with nail technicians leaving the moon—the whitish, half-moon
shape at the base of the nail plate—unpolished. As the decade pro-
© NatUlrich/www.Shutterstock.com
gressed, full-coverage, frosted pastel colors—especially light coral, silver-

white, pink, and apricot-gold—were all the rage. Hot oil manicures were the
ultimate luxury in nail and hand care.
1960s
Juliette (paper) nail wraps—the precursor to silk and fiberglass wraps—were
commonly used to protect natural nail tips. (Juliettes are credited with estab-
lishing the now familiar biweekly nail maintenance appointment.) Detached
nail tips were reaffixed with model airplane glue and reinforced with thin
strands of cotton. Human nail clippings were also used to add nail length. Cli-
ents brought their separated nail tips to their appointments for reattachment.
Nail technicians also created “nail banks,” which consisted of nails donated by all
of their clients! Frosted nail shades continued to be extremely popular. Hot oil
manicures continued to be the luxury service of choice.
1970s
Nail technicians offered the first monomer liquid and polymer powder nail ser-
vices. Plastic nail tips affixed with cyanoacrylate adhesive replaced nail clippings
Part 1 Orientation
attached with model airplane glue to instantly extend nail length. Jeff Pink in-
vented the French manicure (clear nail bed with white tip) and Ridgefiller (a
product that makes ridged nails appear smooth). Squared nail tips came into
vogue.
1980s
Nail art—decals, jewels, metallic strips, and hand-drawn images—
were extremely popular. Monomer liquid and polymer powder nail
formulations continued to improve in terms of ease of application
and longevity for wearers.
© Artem Furman/www.Shutterstock.com
1990s
The day spa business took hold, ushering in a huge
resurgence in natural manicure and pedicure ser-
vices. Airbrush (spray) guns were commonly used to
apply nail designs, especially the white tip of a French
manicure. In 1998, the first spa pedicure system was introduced to the pro-
fessional beauty industry.
Other notable achievements of the twentieth century include:
• UV gel systems grew in popularity.
• Color UV gel and monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhance-
ments swept the industry.
• The popularity of natural nail care services reached a high point.
• Demand for pedicure services reached an all-time high.
• Nail technicians had unprecedented career choices.
• Nail enhancement performance vastly improved.
• Nail polish became safer and longer-lasting.
Twenty-First Century
Nail grooming has reached an all-time zenith in terms of client demand and
product and service choices. It is no longer considered a luxury; it is an ex-
pected part of every client’s grooming ritual. An unprecedented demand for
nail services of all types has created a critical shortage of nail technicians in the
beauty industry.
Here are some examples of the exciting changes we’ve seen thus far:
• UV gel nail polish sweeps the nation. In addition to being called “gel nail
polish,” it is commonly referred to as a gel manicure, soft-gel manicure,
and soak-off gel polish. Each coat of “polish” must be cured under a UV
lamp for up to one minute, depending on the brand.
• Gel polish manicures have dramatically driven the growth of the
professional nail industry since their introduction in 2010. This is largely
because the manicure results last two weeks or longer—including no
chipping or surface dulling—and nails are no thicker than they would
be with a regular manicure polish. The one drawback: Unless a client has
unusually strong and flexible nails, the nail plate must be kept relatively
short.

• UV gel enhancements grow by leaps and bounds because of their
adhesion and natural leveling capabilities, permanent shine properties,
and no-odor formulations. Color and glitter UV gel and monomer liq-
fyi
uid and polymer powder products also gain in popularity. Beyond defining your area
• Nail polish formulations evolve to embody chip-resistant, fade-resistant of expertise, you must also
characteristics. Manufacturers continue to improve their nail polish for- decide whether you want to
mulas by eliminating many unsafe ingredients. Manicuring implements work in one or more of the
improve dramatically by incorporating new ergonomic designs and following environments:
enhanced workmanship. • Nail salon
• A bevy of professional, natural nail care treatments and systems enter
• Full-service salon (hair,
skin, and nail services)
the professional beauty arena, allowing nail technicians to address spe-
• Day spa (skin, body, nail,
cific nail concerns. and hair services that
• Foot-and-hand skin treatment emphasize beauty and
products continue to grow wellness) (Figure 1-1)
in numbers and popularity, • Medical spa, medical
including many scrubs, office, or foot spa
masks, and serums that
specifically address dry-
ness, dullness, and skin-
© Valentyn Volkov/www.Shutterstock.com
aging issues. LO2
Figure 1-1 Pedicures are high-demand

▲
services that many nail clients
faithfully book on a monthly basis.
Copyright © 2015 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
Photography by Joseph Schuyler Photography.
Part 1 Orientation
CAREER PATHS FOR NAIL TECHNICIANS
Once you have completed your schooling and are licensed, you will be amazed
at how many career opportunities will open up to you. The possibilities can be
endless for a dedicated nail technician who approaches his or her career with
a strong sense of personal integrity. Because rules and regulations vary from
state to state, it is important to know which services are allowed in your state of
licensure and the steps you must take to get there.
Within the professional nail industry, there are numerous specialties. They in-
clude the following:
• Nail technician in a traditional salon or spa. Today, clients are eagerly
requesting a variety of nail services that require a combination of skills.
Natural nail services—gel polish manicures and luxurious pedicures as

well as nail-strengthening treatments—monomer liquid and polymer
powder nail enhancements, and odorless UV gel nail enhancements, are
Photography by Dino Petrocelli.
all very popular salon and day spa services. You can now specialize in
one specific area of your field (e.g., natural nails, pedicures, or nail en-
hancements) or be a full-service nail technician who offers many differ-
ent types of nail services (Figure 1-2).
• Medical nail technician/advanced nail technician. Because many
▲ Figure 1-2 Nail technicians have the physicians now recognize the benefits of using medical nail technicians
choice of providing basic to luxurious (MNTs) and advanced nail technicians (ANTs) to perform safe manicures
pedicures as well as medical-based
nail and foot services. and pedicures on at-risk patients, you have a golden opportunity to take
your postlicensing career to a whole new level.
To become an MNT, you are required to take specialty courses and com-
plete an internship under the direction of a podiatrist or physician. Once your
advanced training is complete and you have been certified as an MNT, you
have the choice of working in a variety of medical settings, including a medical

spa or podiatry office. Duties vary, but could include assisting physicians with
patients as well as performing cosmetic pedicures in a dedicated salon room.
You may also choose to become an ANT. An ANT must successfully

complete an advanced training course that focuses on safely providing
services for at-risk clients in a salon or spa setting. Becoming an ANT also
gives you greater respect among salon clients and the opportunity to
benefit from physician referrals.
▲ Figure 1-3 Moving into management • Salon management. If business is your calling, you will find diverse
and even salon ownership are possible
management opportunities in the salon and spa environment. They in-
career paths for nail technicians.
clude inventory manager, retail sales manager, department head, special
© iStockphoto/j_markow
events manager (promotions), assistant manager, and general manager.

With experience, you can also add salon owner to your list of career
possibilities. To ensure your success, it is wise to enroll in
business classes to learn more about managing products,
departments, and, above all, people (Figure 1-3).

• Salon educator. Many companies, such as manu-
facturers and salon chains, hire experienced salon
professionals and train them to educate others.
This kind of education can take many forms, rang-
ing from technical to management and interper-
sonal relationship training. A salon educator can

work with small salons, as well as large organiza-
tions and trade associations, to help develop the
beauty industry’s most valuable resource—salon
personnel (Figure 1-4).

• Distributor sales consultant. The salon industry
depends heavily on its relationships with product
distributors in order to stay abreast of changes
in the marketplace. In addition to selling prod-
ucts, distributor sales consultants (DSCs) provide
▲ Figure 1-4 Educators can work part-
information about new products, trends, and techniques. This specialty time and still service a clientele or
provides an excellent opportunity for highly skilled and trained cosme- work full-time as a teacher or trainer.
tology professionals. The DSC is the salon’s link to the rest of the indus-
try. It is also a relationship that represents the most effective method for
professional beauty product companies to reach salon professionals and
owners.
• Manufacturer educator. Most manufacturers hire their own educators
to train salon professionals on how to use their products and even to
provide advanced education. Mastery of the company’s product lines is a
must for manufacturer educators. An accomplished educator who is also
a good public speaker can advance to field educator, regional educator,
or even director of education for nail-centric companies.
• Beauty school instructor. Have you ever wondered how your instructor
decided to start teaching? Many instructors had fantastic careers in
salons before dedicating themselves to teaching new professionals the
tricks of the trade. If this career path interests you, spend some time with
your school’s instructors and ask them why they went into education.
While educating new nail technicians can be challenging, it can also be
very rewarding.
• Film/editorial nail technician. Working behind the
scenes at magazine and Internet photo shoots, or
backstage on movies and TV sets, begins by volun-
teering. Even someone right out of school can volun-
teer by networking with photographers, editorial stylists,
and nail technicians who already work behind the scenes.
Once you are officially assisting a seasoned nail technician at photo
shoots—even if it means you are volunteering your time—ask
photographers for one or two images in lieu of payment. Make
© Viorel Sima/www.Shutterstock.com
sure they show off your nail work! Eventually, as you gain the trust of
those who have allowed you to assist, you will be invited to do shoots as a
paid nail technician. The qualities required to get to this level include tech-
nical expertise, persistence, networking skills, reliability, team spirit, speed,
and attention to detail. LO3
Part 1 Orientation
■ Review Questions
1. What are the origins of personal beautification? 3. What are some of the career opportunities avail-
2. What are some of the advancements that were able to licensed nail technicians?
made in nail technology during the twentieth
and early twenty-first centuries?
© iStockphoto/Valentin Casarsa

�
Life Skills
Chapter Outline
• hy tudy Life kills
• Life kills
• uidelines for uccess
• Rules of uccess
• Recogni ing and Managing tress
• Motivation and elf Management
• Managing our Career
• oal etting
• ime Management
• tudy kills
• Ethics
• Personality Development and Attitude
tudio www. hutterstock.com
© L
Learning Objectives
LO1 List the principles that contribute to personal and

professional success.
LO2 Create a mission statement.
LO3 E plain how to set short and long term goals.
LO4 Discuss the most e ective ways to manage time.
LO5 Describe good study habits.
LO6 De ne ethics.
LO7 List the characteristics of a healthy, positive attitude.
© igor grat er www. hutterstock.com

Key Terms
ethics 2 perfectionism 1
game plan 1 prioritize 2
goal setting 21 procrastination 1
mission statement 20
© i tockphoto iodrakon
14 Copyright 2015 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203
S chool presents one set of challenges, and staying on course for your
entire career has another. Life skills are particularly important in the
eld of nail technology because the hard and fast rules that apply to more struc
tured industries are frequently absent in the salon. y its nature, the salon is a
creative workplace where you are e pected to e ercise your artistic talent. he
salon is also a highly social atmosphere that requires strong self discipline and
e cellent people skills. esides making a solid connection with each client, you
must always stay focused on the task at hand. ou must display competence
and enthusiasm every time you take care of a client s needs no matter how
you feel, or how many hours you have been at work. our livelihood and your
personal feelings of success depend on how well you maintain this attitude.
WHY STUDY LIFE SKILLS?

Nail technicians should have a thorough understanding of life skills because:
❱ Practicing good life skills will lead to a more satisfying and productive
career in the beauty industry.
❱ Nail technicians work with many different types of clients. aving good life
skills can help you keep these interactions positive, in any situation.
❱ he ability to deal with difficult clients, coworkers, and even friends comes
from having well developed life skills.
❱ aving good life skills builds high self esteem, which, in turn, helps you
achieve your goals.
■ LIFE SKILLS
ome of the most important life skills for you to remember and practice in and
outside the salon include:
• eing genuinely caring and helpful to others.
• Making good friends.
• eeling good about yourself.
• aving a sense of humor to bring you through di cult situations.
• Maintaining a cooperative attitude.
• Approaching all your work with a strong sense of responsibility.
• eing consistent in your work.
• uccessfully adapting to di erent situations.
• ticking to a goal and seeing a ob to completion.
• Mastering techniques that will help you to become more organi ed.
© akala www. hutterstock.com
• Developing a deep reservoir of common sense.
Part 1 rientation
■ GUIDELINES FOR SUCCESS
he de nition of success is very personal. here are some basic principles, how
ever, that form the foundation of all personal and business success. ou can
put yourself on the path to success right now by e amining and putting these
principles into practice:
• Build self-esteem. elf esteem is based
on inner strength and begins with trust
ing your ability to reach your goals. It is
essential that you develop self esteem
while you are still a student.
• Visualize success. Imagine yourself
© i tockphoto Catherine eulet

working in your dream salon, compe
tently handling clients, and feeling at
ease and happy with your situation.
he more you practice visuali ation,
the more easily you will turn your vision
into reality (Figure 2–1). ▲ Figure 2–1 Visualize your success.
• Build on your strengths. Practice
doing whatever helps you maintain a positive self image. If you are good
at doing something e.g., playing the guitar, taking photographs, run
▼ Figure 2–2 Spend time doing things ning, cooking, gardening, or singing , the time you invest in that activity
that you enjoy and do well. will allow you to feel good about yourself (Figure 2–2). Also remember
that there may be things you are good at that you cannot see.
• Be kind to yourself. top self critical or negative thoughts that
can work against you. If you make a mistake, tell yourself that it is
okay and you will do better ne t time.
• Define success for yourself. Do not depend on other people s
de nition of success. Instead, become a success in your own
eyes. hat is right for your sister or a friend, for instance, may
not be right for you.
• Practice new behaviors. ecause creating success is a skill,
you can help develop it by practicing positive new behaviors,
such as speaking with con dence, standing tall, staying true
to yourself, or even remembering to use good grammar.
• K
Keep your personal life separate from your work. alking
about yourself and others at work is personally counter
productive and can cause the whole salon to su er.
• Keep your energy up. uccessful nail technicians do
not run themselves ragged, nor do they eat, sleep, and
drink beauty. hey take care of their personal needs by
spending time with family and friends, having hobbies,
© Leegudim www. hutterstock.com
en oying recreational activities, and living a full life.

• Respect others. Make a point of relating to everyone you know with a
conscious feeling of respect. E ercise good manners with others by us
ing words such as please, thank you, and excuse me. Do not interrupt peo
ple when they are speaking, and practice being a good listener.
16 Chapter 2 Life kills

• Stay productive. here are three bad habits that can keep you from main
taining peak performance: 1 procrastination, 2 perfectionism, and
lack of a game plan. ou will see a near instant improvement in your
productivity when you work on eliminating these trouble
some tendencies.
1. Procrastination is putting o until tomorrow what
you can do today. his destructive, yet common, habit is
© i oncept www. hutterstock.com
a characteristic of poor study habits. I ll study tomorrow

instead of today. It may also be a symptom of taking on too
much, which, in turn, is a symptom of faulty organi ation.
2. Perfectionism is an unhealthy compulsion to do things
perfectly. uccess is not de ned as doing everything per
fectly. In fact, someone who never makes a mistake may not
be taking risks necessary for growth and improvement. A bet
ter de nition of success is not giving up, even when things
get really tough.
3. Lacking a game plan. aving a game plan is the conscious act of
planning your life, rather than ust letting things happen. hile an
overall game plan is usually organi ed into large blocks of time to
10 years , it is ust as important to set daily, monthly, and yearly goals.
here do you want to be in your career years from now hat do
you have to do this week, this month, and this year to move closer to
that goal
■ RULES FOR SUCCESS

o be successful, you must take ownership of your education. hile your in
structors can create motivational circumstances and an environment to assist
you in the learning process, the ultimate responsibility for learning is yours. o
reali e the greatest bene ts from your education, commit yourself to the fol
lowing rules that will take you a long way down the road of success:
• Attend all classes.
• Arrive for class early.
• ave all the necessary materials ready.
• Listen attentively to your instructor.
• ighlight important points.
• ake notes for later review.
• Pay close attention during summary and review sessions.
• hen something is not clear, ask. If it is still not clear, ask again.
Even after you complete school, you should regularly seek continuing education
opportunities. Never stop learning. he nail technology industry is constantly
© Andresr www. hutterstock.com
changing. here are always new trends, techniques, products, and information.
hroughout your career, you should read industry maga ines and books and
attend advanced educational classes.
Part 1 rientation
■ RECOGNIZING AND MANAGING STRESS
tress can a ect your body, thoughts, feelings, and behavior. Managing your
stress levels while you are in school and in the workplace is essential to having
a healthy and ful lling career as a nail technician and personal life.
Signs of Stress
eing able to recogni e common symptoms of stress will give you a head start
on managing whatever is causing the discomfort as well as your symptoms.
Common e ects of stress include:
BODY
• eadache
• Muscle tension or pain
© i tockphoto hinkstock
• Chest pain
• atigue
• tomach upset
• leep problems
MOOD
• An iety
• Restlessness
• Lack of motivation or focus
• Irritability or anger
• adness or depression
BEHAVIOR
• ver or undereating
• Angry outbursts
• Drug or alcohol abuse
• obacco use
• ocial withdrawal
Alleviating Stress
Learning to deal with stress e ectively takes time, thought, and prac
tice. uite often, it also requires adopting healthier habits and removing
sources of stress.
• Identify the source. ou may nd that your stress arises from
something that is easy to correct. etter organi ing your morning
© enneth Man www. hutterstock.com
activities before school, for instance, could make the start of school
or work stress free. ne solution may be to get up 1 minutes earlier
than you usually do or to spend less time on the computer and more
time preparing for your day. Read the section ime Management
for more tips.

• Monitor your moods. Practice staying connected with your moods and
emotions. hen you feel your mood shift, even a little bit, try to identify
the source. or e amples, If you feel unprepared or disorgani ed
during class, then focus on resolving the problem. If you are
worried about a certain skill you have not yet mastered, seek
the advice of a teacher or mentor.
• Control your inner dialog. e conscious of what you think about
all day. Are you obsessing about a negative situation or challenge
If you are, your stress levels could become unbearable. rain yourself
to consider and think about what is good in your immediate situation
and in your life. Deal with any and all concerns proactively by devising
ways to make them better.
• Make time for yourself. hat do you like to do every day Every
week Depriving yourself of personal en oyment guarantees that you
will feel stressed. It is important to book personal time and commit to
it as seriously as you would for study, work, or attending school. Read
the section ime Management for more tips on how to schedule per
sonal time.
• Set reasonable standards. Never e pect perfection. Instead,
e pect yourself to do the best that you possibly can. e forgiv
ing of yourself if you fall short of your e pectations and make
a realistic plan to do better. orrying about your performance
© i tockphoto hinkstock
will not improve your performance it will only make you feel
stressed.
■ MOTIVATION AND SELF-MANAGEMENT

Motivation propels you to do something. elf management involves knowing
what you want to achieve and keeping yourself on track so that you do eventu
ally achieve your goal. hen you are hungry, for e ample, you are motivated to
eat. ut it is self management that helps you to decide how you will get food.
A motivated student nds it much easier to learn. he best motivation for you
to learn comes from an inner desire to grow your skills as a professional a
lifelong pursuit that is motivated by the ever changing world of professional
beauty.
If you are personally drawn to nail technology, then you are likely to
be interested in the material you will be studying in school. If your motiva
tion comes from some e ternal source for instance, your parents, friends, or
a vocational counselor you could have a di cult time nishing school and
ump starting your beauty career. o achieve success, you need more than an
e ternal push you must feel a sense of personal e citement and a good rea
son for staying the course. ou are the one in charge of managing your own
life and learning. o do this successfully, you need good self management
skills.
Part 1 Orientation
Your Creative Capability
ne self management skill we can draw on is creativity. Creativity means
having a talent such as painting, acting, applying makeup, or doing arti cial
nails. Creativity is also an unlimited inner resource of ideas and solutions. o
▼ Figure 2-3 Build strong relationships
for support. enhance your creativity, keep these guidelines in mind:
• Do not be self critical. Criticism blocks the
creative mind from e ploring ideas and dis
covering solutions to challenges.
• Do not look to others for motivation. apping
into your own creativity will be the best way to
manage your own success.
• Change your vocabulary. uild a positive
vocabulary by using active problem solving

words like e plore, analy e, and determine,
and other words of this nature.
• Do not try to go it alone. In today s hectic and

pressured world, many talented people nd
that they are more creative in an environment
where people work together and share ideas.
his is where the value of a strong salon team
comes into play (Figure 2–3). LO1
■ MANAGING YOUR CAREER

As you navigate your beauty career, you will come up against di culties
shallow spots, rocks, swift currents, and even an occasional iceberg no matter
how creative, talented, or motivated you are. nowing how to manage your
career will make all the di erence in staying a oat.
▼ Figure 2–4 Example of a personal
mission statement.
Design a Mission Statement
Every successful business has a business plan. An
essential part of this plan is the mission statement.
A mission statement establishes the values that a busi
ness or an individual lives by and sets up future goals
(Figure 2–4). o also succeed in life, you need a well
thought out sense of purpose and a reason for being.
ry to prepare a personal mission statement in one

or two sentences that communicates who you are and
what you want for your life. ne e ample of a simple,
yet thoughtful, mission statement is: I am dedicated
to pursuing a successful career with dignity, honesty,

and integrity. hatever you want for your future will
be based on the mission statement that you make now.
It will point you in a solid direction and help you to feel
secure when things temporarily are not working out
as planned. or reinforcement, keep a copy of your
mission statement where you can see it and read it
every day. LO2

■ GOAL SETTING
ome people never have a speci c goal in mind. hey go through life one day
at a time without really deciding what they want, where they can nd it,
or how they are going to live their lives once they get it. hey drift
aimlessly from one activity to the ne t. Does this describe you
r do you have drive, desire, and a dream If so, do you have a
reasonable idea of how to go about meeting your goal
Goal setting is the identi cation of short and long term
© marekulias www. hutterstock.com
goals that help you decide what you want out of your life.
hen you know what you want, you can draw a circle around
your destination and chart the best course to get there. y map
ping out your goal, you will see where you need to focus your atten
tion, and what you need to learn in order to ful ll your dreams.
How Goal Setting Works

here are two types of goals: short term and long term. An e ample of
a short term goal is to get through a competency e am successfully. Another
short term goal would be to graduate from cosmetology school. hort term
goals are usually those you wish to accomplish in a year or less.
Long term goals are measured in larger sections of time, perhaps or
10 years, or even longer. An e ample of a long term goal is becoming a salon
owner in years.
nce you have organi ed your thoughts about your goals, write them down
in short term and long term columns. Divide each set of goals into workable
segments. In this way, your goals will not seem out of sight or overwhelming.
or e ample, one of your long term goals should be to build a full clientele. At
rst, the prospect of accomplishing this might seem to require an overwhelm
ing amount of time and e ort. owever, when you separate this into short
term goals such as nding suitable employment and marketing your skills ,
you will see that each step on the way to
the long term goal can be accomplished
without too much di culty or stress.
he important thing to remember
about goal setting is to have a plan and
to ree amine it often in order to make
sure that you are staying on track. Even
people who have fame, fortune, and
widespread respect continue to set
goals for themselves. hile they may
ad ust their goals and action plans as
they go along, successful people know
that goals move them toward additional
successes (Figure 2–5 and Figure 2–6).
LO3
© kabby www. hutterstock.com
Part 1 Orientation
HOW TO SET AND TRACK SHORT-TERM GOALS
NUMBER GOAL-SETTING CHECKLIST COMPLETION DATE DONE
1. Read Chapter 2. 6/09/2014

Action Steps: Read first part at lunch; finish it after dinner. ❑
2. Practice speaking to clients in a pleasing voice. 6/10/2014
Action Steps: Do with family tonight. ❑
3. Create my own mission statement. 6/15/2014
Action Steps: Review sample in Chapter 2; write my own. ❑
4. Start learning trends. 6/20/2014
Action Steps: Search online, read trade and beauty magazines. ❑
Make a 5-word “trend list.”
5. Prepare to pass the Chapter 2 exam. 7/10/2014

Action Steps: Review what I read, ask instructor any questions, ❑

have study session with 2 friends.
6. Practice being on time! Start 6/20

Action Steps: Set alarm for 15 minutes earlier. Give self $1 5 days in a row
every time I get to class 10 minutes early. by 7/20
7. Build my vocabulary. Daily

Action Steps: Buy book or find Website. Learn 1 new word a day.
▲ Figure 2–5 A sample of how to set and track short-term goals.
MY GOALS
NUMBER GOAL-SETTING CHECKLIST COMPLETION DATE DONE
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
▲ Figure 2–6 Photocopy this template and fill in your own goals.

Activity
According to estimates, the average person spends as much as hours every day checking e mail, looking at
eb sites, and watching videos. he average teenager sends nearly 0 te t messages a day o nd out if you
are managing your time well, try this e ercise.
• rite down the time in the morning when you rst go online, check e mail, or send a te t message.
• Do what you normally do online, noting the time that you nish these activities.
• hroughout the day, try to estimate and add to your list how much additional time you spend on
these activities.
• Add up the total time at the end of your day.
Are you surprised ime management e perts recommend that you avoid e mailing, eb browsing, and
te ting for the rst minutes or hour of the day. Instead, use that time to plan your day, review reading
materials for school, or do other work. his rst hour of the day may be the best time to accomplish concrete
tasks because it is quiet and often interruption free. tarting your day by being productive helps you develop
good time management skills for life.
■ TIME MANAGEMENT
ne thing that all time management e perts agree on is that each of us has an
inner organizer. hen we pay attention to our natural rhythms, we can learn how
to manage our time more e ciently, allowing us to reach our goals faster and
with less frustration. ere are some of the most e ective ways to manage time:
• Learn to prioritize by ordering tasks on your to do list from most
important to least important.
• Make sure the time management system you design works for you. or
e ample, if you need a fair amount of e ibility, schedule in some blocks
of unstructured time.
• Never take on more than you can handle. Learn to say no rmly but kindly,
and mean it. ou will nd it easier to complete your tasks if you limit your ac
tivities and do not spread yourself too thin.
• Learn problem solving techniques that will save you time and needless
frustration.
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ILL
©
Part 1 rientation
•
fyi
ive yourself some down time
whenever you are frustrated, over
whelmed, worried, or feeling guilty
about something. ou lose valuable
In the salon, the most time and energy when you are in a
important aspect of time negative state of mind. nfortunate
management is staying on ly, there may be situations such as
schedule with your book when you are in the classroom in
ings so that you can greet
which you cannot get up and walk
each client at the scheduled
appointment time. his
away. o handle these di cult times,
© takayuki www. hutterstock.com

means completing a service try practicing the technique of deep
during the time allotted. breathing. ust ll your lungs as much
ome salons book mani as you can and then e hale slowly.
cures on the hour others After about to 10 breaths, you will
book them at minute usually nd that you have calmed
intervals. Accomplished down and that your inner balance
nail technicians can do a ▲ Figure 2–7 Keep a schedule for yourself
and be sure to refer to it on a frequent basis. has been restored.
manicure in half an hour,
but they usually schedule •
Carry a notepad or organi er with you
clients for longer periods of at all times. ou never know when a
time to upsell more ser good idea might strike or when you need to add a task to your schedule.
vices, prepare their stations rite these things down before they slip your mind
for their ne t client, and
interact with salon clients. • Make daily, weekly, and monthly schedules that show e am times,
Making sure that you study sessions, and any other regular commitments. Plan your leisure
arrive on time, start your time around these commitments, rather than the other way around
rst client as soon as he (Figure 2–7).
or she arrives, and stay on • Identify times during the day when you are typically energetic and when
schedule will take you a long you typically want or need to rela . Plan your schedule accordingly.
way toward success as a nail
technician. he front desk
• Reward yourself with a special treat or activity for work well done and
and salon manager can be a time managed e ciently.
tremendous help if you nd • Do not neglect physical activity.
yourself falling behind or if Remember that e ercise and rec
you have the opportunity to reation stimulate clear thinking
add on an e tra service and
and e cient planning.
need help tting it into your
day. ith e perience, you ll • chedule at least one additional
learn to accommodate late block of free time each day. his
clients and add on services will be your hedge against events
like a pro. that come up une pectedly, like
car trouble, baby sitting problems,
helping a friend in need, or any
other unforeseen circumstances.
• nderstand the value of to do
eed www. hutterstock.com
lists for the day and the week.

hese lists help you prioriti e your
tasks and activities, key elements
to organi ing your time e ciently
© rian
(Figure 2–8).
• Make time management a habit. ▲ Figure 2–8 Example of a to-do list.
LO4

■ STUDY SKILLS
If you nd studying overwhelming, divide your study time into smaller
segments. or e ample, instead of trying to study for hours at a
stretch and su ering a personal defeat when you fold after 0 minutes,
set the bar lower by studying in smaller chunks of time. If your mind
tends to wander in class, try writing down key words or phrases as your
instructor discusses them. Any time you lose your focus, you can stay after
class and ask questions based on your notes.
www. hutterstock.com
Another way to get a better handle on studying is to nd other students who

are open to being helpful and supportive. he more you discuss new material
with others, the more comfortable you will become with the material. In the end,
everyone will be more successful. If possible, study together (Figure 2–9).
© erg
Figure 2–9 Studying with a friend

▼
can be effective and fun.
Establishing Good Study Habits

Part of developing consistently good study habits is to know where, when, and
how to study.
Where
• Establish a comfortable, quiet spot where you can study uninterrupted.
• ave everything you need computer, books, pens, paper, proper light
ing, and so on before you begin studying.
• Remain as alert as possible by sitting upright. Reclining will make you sleepy
When
• tart out by estimating how much study time you need.
• tudy when you feel most energetic and motivated.
• Practice e ective time management by studying during blocks of time
that would otherwise be wasted such as while you are waiting in the
doctor s o ce, taking a bus across town, and so forth.
Part 1 Orientation
How
• tudy ust one section of a chapter at a time, instead of reviewing the
FOCUS ON… entire chapter at once.
The Goal • Make a note of key words and phrases as you go along.
Determine whether your • est yourself on each section to ensure that you understand and remem
goal-setting plan is an ber the key points of each chapter.
effective one by asking
Remember that every e ort you make to follow through on your education is
yourself these key
an investment in your future. he progress you make with your learning will
questions:
increase your con dence and self esteem across the board. In fact, when you
• Are there specific
skills I will need to have mastered a range of information and techniques, your self esteem will
learn in order to meet soar right along with your grades. LO5
my goals?
• Is the information ■ ETHICS
I need to reach
my goals readily Ethics are the moral principles by which we live and work. In the salon setting,
available? ethical standards should guide your conduct with clients and fellow employees.
• Am I willing to seek hen your actions are respectful, courteous, and helpful, you are behaving in
out a mentor or a an ethical manner. here are ve professional behaviors that will show you are
coach to enhance my
an ethical person. ou can practice ethics in the salon every day by:
learning?
• What is the best • Providing skilled and competent services.
method or approach • eing honest, courteous, and sincere.
that will allow me to
accomplish my goals? • Avoiding sharing clients private matters with others even your closest
• Am I open to finding friends.
better ways of • Participating in continuing education and staying on track with new in
putting my plan into formation, techniques, and skills.
practice?
• Providing clients accurate information about treatments and products.
LO6
FOCUS ON…
Professional Ethics
Ethical people often embody the following qualities:
• Self-care. Many service providers suffer from stress and eventually burn out because they focus too much of their
energy and time on other people and too little on themselves. If you are to be truly helpful to others, it is essential to
take care of yourself. Try the Self-Care Test to assess how you are doing (Figure 2–10).
• Integrity. Maintain your integrity by matching your behavior and actions to your values. For example, if you
believe it is unethical to increase your sales by recommending products that clients don’t really need, then do
not engage in that behavior. On the other hand, if you feel that a client would benefit from certain products and
additional services, it would be unethical not to give the client that information.
• Discretion. Do not share your personal problems with clients. Likewise, never breach confidentiality by
repeating personal information that clients have shared with you.
• Communication. Your responsibility to behave ethically extends to your communications with customers
and coworkers. In other words, you should always be honest.

THE SELF-CARE TEST
ome people know 1. Do you wait until you are e hausted before
intuitively when they need you stop working
to stop, take a break, or 2. Do you forget to eat nutritious food and
even take a day o . ther substitute unk food on the y
people forget when to eat. . Do you say you will e ercise and then put
ou can udge how well o starting a program
you take care of yourself . Do you have poor sleep habits
© asonya www. hutterstock.com
by noting how you feel . Are you constantly nagging yourself about
physically, emotionally, not being good enough
and mentally. ere are . Are your relationships with people lled
some questions to ask with con ict
yourself to see how you . hen you think about the future, are you
rate according to the unclear about the direction you will take
self care scale. . Do you spend most of your spare time
watching
. ave you been told you are too stressed
and yet you ignore these concerns
10. Do you waste time and then get angry with
yourself
core points for each yes. A score of 0 1

says that you take pretty good care of yourself,

but you would be wise to e amine those
questions you answered yes to. A score of 1 0
indicates that you need to rethink your priorities.
A score of 0 0 is a strong statement that you are
neglecting yourself and may be headed for high
stress and burnout. Reviewing the suggestions in
these chapters will help you get back on track. FOCUS ON…
The Whole Person
▲ Figure 2–10 Self-care test.
An individual’s
personality is the
sum total of her or his
■ PERSONALITY DEVELOPMENT inborn characteristics,
AND ATTITUDE attitudes, and
behavioral traits. While
ome occupations require less interaction with people than others. or e ample, you may not be able
computer programmers do not usually interact with all di erent sorts of to alter most of your
people every day. Nail technicians, however, deal with people from all walks of inborn characteristics,
life every day. It is useful, therefore, to have some sense of how di erent you certainly can work
personality traits and attitudes can a ect your success. on your attitude. This is
Refer regularly to the following characteristics of a healthy, positive attitude a process that continues
to ensure that they match your self description. throughout your life. In
• Diplomacy. eing assertive is a good thing because it helps people un both your business and
derstand your position. owever, it is a short step from being assertive personal life, a pleasant
attitude gains more
to aggressive, or even bullying. ake your attitude temperature to see
associates, clients, and
how well you practice the art of diplomacy. Diplomacy also known as
friends.
tact—is the ability to deliver truthful, even sometimes critical or di cult,
messages in a kind way.
Part 1 Orientation
• Pleasing tone of voice. he tone of your voice
is an inborn personality trait, but if your natural
voice is harsh or if you tend to mumble, you can
consciously improve by speaking more softly or
more clearly. Also, if you have a positive attitude,
this will shine through in a pleasant delivery,
even if your natural tone of voice is not ideal.
• Emotional stability. ur emotions are impor

tant, but they do require some control. ome
people e press themselves e cessively or in
© hots tudio www. hutterstock.com

appropriately. hen they are happy, they get
almost frantic when they are angry, they y into
a rage. Learning how to handle a confrontation
and how to share your feelings without going
overboard are important indicators of maturity
and emotional stability.
• Sensitivity. ensitivity is a combination of understanding, empathy, and

acceptance. eing sensitive means being compassionate and responsive
to other people.
• Values and goals. Neither values nor goals are inborn characteristics we
acquire them as we move through life. alues and goals guide our be
havior and give us direction.
• Receptivity. o be receptive means to be interested in other people and to

be responsive to their opinions, feelings, and ideas. his means taking the
time to really listen, instead of ust pretending to do so (Figure 2–11).

▲ Figure 2–11 Being receptive is an important personal skill.
• Effective communication skills. E ective communicators usually have

warm, caring personalities. hey have an easy time talking about them
selves and listening to what others have to say. hen they want some
thing, they can ask for it clearly and directly they pay attention when
somebody else is speaking to them. LO7

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no related content on Scribd:
Kürzer und einfacher sind folgende Lebensregeln:
Ein wahrer Menschenfreund bleibt weise, wenn er lacht, und heiter,
wenn er weint.
(Cronegk)
Wir wollen, Pilgrime der Erden,

Der kurzen Wallfahrt uns erfreun,
In unserer Jugend weise sein,
Um einstens im Alter recht fröhlich zu werden.
Einen alten Bekannten werden viele in den Gellertschen Zeilen

finden:
Lebe, wie du, wenn du stirbst,
Wünschen wirst, gelebt zu haben.
Güter, die du hier erwirbst,
Güter, die dir Menschen gaben,
Nichts kann dich im Tod erfreun.
Diese Güter sind nicht dein.
Überhaupt bestätigt sich, daß Gellert den überragenden Einfluß

auf die sittliche Bildung des Zeitalters behauptet.
Naturgemäß findet auch Gottesfurcht verschiedentlich ihren
Ausdruck. Aber auch das Religiöse bewegt sich meist im
Gedankenkreise der Aufklärung. Von Herrnhuter Einfluß ist nichts zu
finden. Von den sogenannten »Pietisten« wird nur Canitz (aus dem
Freundeskreise Speners) angeführt:
Hilf, daß ich wandeln mag, als brächt’ ein frommes Leben
Mir hier in dieser schon die Schätze jener Welt;
Dabei, Herr, wolltest du mir solchen Glauben geben,
Der sein Verdienst vor nichts und dich vor alles hält!
(Canitz)
Recht nüchtern muten uns auch die Verse an, in denen das Lob
der Tugend gesungen wird:
Wird sie geliebt, so liebt sie wieder,
Erfreut den Geist, belebt die Glieder,
Bringt wahren Ruhm, versöhnt die Feinde,
Genießt das Glück der treusten Freunde,
Verjüngt das Alter, schmückt die Jugend:
die edle Tugend. –
Durch dich, o göttliche Tugend, durch dich nur können wir freudig
Das Meer des Lebens durchschiffen. Laßt diesen Pharus uns leuchten,
So sehn wir den Hafen des Glücks trotz Ungewitter des Zufalls,
Trotz aller Leidenschaft Sturm, der nur den Einlauf befördert,
So wird die Vorsicht uns weise, der Himmel uns gnädig bedünken.
(Kleist)
Neben den Altären der Tugend rauchen die Altäre der
Freundschaft. Ist doch das ganze Buch der Freundschaft gewidmet.
Deshalb hat man ihm folgenden Vers vorangesetzt:
Mensch, lerne doch dein Leben dir versüßen,
Und laß dein Herz von Freundschaft überfließen,
Der süßen Quelle für den Geist!
Sie quillt nicht bloß für diese kurzen Zeiten,
Sie wird ein Bach, der sich in Ewigkeiten
Erquickend durch die Seel’ ergeußt.
(Gellert.)
Mehr in der Tonart der »Empfindsamkeit« gehalten sind folgende
Verse, die zwar auch der Freundschaft gelten, in denen aber der
Modeausdruck »Sympathie« in erster Linie gebraucht wird:
Wen erhabene Sympathie,
Durch dein Band verbunden,
Deine Zauberstimme nie
Froh in Abendstunden
Hand in Hand und Brust an Brust,
Mit Empfindung grüßet,
Wem sie mit der reinsten Lust
Nicht die Zeit versüßet:
Der hat nur aus Eitelkeit
Musen Treu’ geschworen
Und von deiner Zärtlichkeit,
Freundschaft, viel verloren. –
Durch Sympathie will ich mit Dir

Das Glück der wahren Freundschaft singen,
Empfinden – und so wollen wir
Uns einst als Greise noch umschlingen.
Im scharfen Gegensatze hierzu steht die Äußerung eines bitteren
Spötters:
Maler, male mir den Jüngling, dessen Herz von Freundschaft glüht
Und gefühlvoll an den Busen seines einz’gen Lieblings flieht,
Wie er noch in späten Jahren dieses Feuer nährt! –
Du staunst und sprichst, dies sei original? –
Gut! mal ihn mir einmal!
So wird mein Wunsch mir doch gemalt gewährt.
Maler, male!
Den Ausgleich bildet der von Lessing geschriebene Spruch:

Satius amicum habere nullum quam levem.
Nach dem hohen Liede der Freundschaft erwarten wir das hohe
Lied der Liebe. Doch von Liebe ist bezeichnenderweise wenig die
Rede, um so mehr von Empfindung, damals gleichfalls ein
Modeausdruck. Es heißt da zum Beispiel:
Ein empfindungsvolles Herz und eine weisheitsbegierige Seele –
beides eine Welt voll Glück und Unglück! –
Stiller Freuden sich bewußt,

Mancher edlen Tat:
Dies sind Güter einer Brust,
Die Empfindung hat. –
Holder Zärtlichkeiten
Hohe Seligkeiten
Sind ganz ungemein.
Ihre schönsten Stunden
Wollen nur empfunden,
Nicht beschrieben sein. –
Freund, ein einziger Blick von einer Seele begeistert,

Die von der süßen Gewalt ihrer Empfindungen bebt,
Und ein Seufzer mit vollem Verlangen, mit voller Entzückung
Ausgedrückt auf einen zitternden, blühenden Mund,
Ein beseelender Kuß ist mehr als hundert Gesänge
Mit ihrer ganzen langen Unsterblichkeit wert.
Etwas weniger klar ist der Ausspruch:
Empfindsamkeit ist das Genie zur Tugend.
Natürlich kann es im Zeitalter der Schäferspiele und

Einsiedlerhütten nicht an Sprüchen fehlen, welche die Schönheit des
ländlichen, in idyllischer Zurückgezogenheit verbrachten Lebens
preisen:
Nur der ist ein Liebling des Himmels, der fern vom Getümmel der Toren
Am Bache schlummert, erwachet und singt. Ihm malet die Sonne
Den Ost mit Purpur, ihm haucht die Wiese, die Nachtigall singt ihm.
Ihm folget die Reue nicht nach, nicht durch die wallenden Saaten,
Nicht unter die Herden im Tal, nicht an sein Traubengeländer.
Mit Arbeit würzt er die Kost. Sein Blut ist leicht wie der Äther.
Sein Schlaf verfliegt mit der Dämm’rung, ein Morgenlüftchen verweht ihn.
(Kleist.)
An klassische Vorbilder gemahnt:
Glücklich ist der, der, fern vom Altar der feilen Chikane,
Richter und Anwalt nicht kennt und seinen ruhigen Morgen
In dem Gefolge der Musen, von Würden verschonet, dahinlebt.
(Zachariä.)
Denselben Gedanken, nur ein bißchen mehr ins Spießbürgerliche

übertragen, bringt folgender, gleichfalls von Zachariä verfaßter Vers
zum Ausdruck:
Oh, wie beglückt ist der, der seinen Morgen braucht,
Und früh beim klugen Buch sein sichres Pfeifchen raucht,
Der Tee des Nachmittags, Kaffee des Morgens trinket
Und früh sein Mädchen sieht, wenn sie sich nicht geschminket!
Doch bald werden wir wieder zu höheren Schichten erhoben:

So wie ein Silberbach hinfließt,
Den keine Welle schlägt,
Wenn er sich sanft ins Tal ergießt,
Von keinem Sturm bewegt,
So sanft fließe auch deine Zeit
Durchs Tal des Lebens hin.
Mit Blumen sei dein Weg bestreut,
Stets fröhlich sei dein Sinn!
Der Naturbetrachtung ist ein Vers von Brockes gewidmet, der uns
schon wieder ins Gebiet des nüchternen Rationalismus führt:
Sag, o Mensch, auf welche Weise
Kann sich zu des Schöpfers Preise
Uns’re Seele schöner schmücken,
Als wenn wir von seinen Werken
Dadurch, daß wir sie bemerken
In den Geist ihr Bildnis drücken!
Aber gleich darauf kommen Verse, die Sonnenschein, Friede und

süße Lieder atmen:
Dein Leben gleiche dem Liede
Der Musen im Myrtenhain,
Es tanze dahin wie jugendlicher Friede
Im heitern Sonnenschein! –
Oh, laß beim Klange süßer Lieder

Uns lächelnd durch das Leben gehn
Und, sinkt die lange Nacht hernieder,
Mit diesem Lächeln stille stehn!
(Jacobi.)
Einen begeisterten Hymnus auf die Musik stimmt der Organist

Ernst Friedrich Rösler in Plauen an. (Vielleicht hat er den jungen
Herrn in der Kunst des Flötenspieles unterrichtet):
Die Tonkunst macht die Freuden süße.
Sie kann die Schwermut selbst erfreun.
Sie macht entzückender die Küsse,
Den Scherz belebt und süß den Wein.
Das Gastmahl fliehn die Fröhlichkeiten,
Dem Freiheit und Musik gebricht,
Und bei dem Klange sanfter Saiten
Hört man der Narren Plaudern nicht.
Ein anderer wieder schätzt die Musik im Rahmen heiterer
Lebenslust:
Ein fühlbar Lied, das Heinriettchen singt,
Hat mich oft zärtlich eingenommen.
Doch wenn mein Trinkglas dazu klingt,
So ist erst die Musik vollkommen.
Den hübschen Kindern gilt mancher Vers:

Freund, wider eines Mädchens Reiz
Hilft weder Fürstenhut noch Kreuz. –
Wer glücklich leben will, der lebe so wie ich.

Ich lieb’ ein hübsches Kind
Und bleibe doch vor mich.
Ein Offizier schreibt:

Hübsche Mädchen sind erschaffen
Für Soldaten, nicht für Pfaffen.
Drum erwählt ich diesen Orden
Und bin ein Soldat geworden.
Ein weiterer Eintrag beweist, daß Logaus Vers

Wie kannst du weiße Lilien
Zu roten Rosen machen?
Küß’ eine weiße Galathee;
Sie wird errötend lachen
nicht erst durch Kellers »Sinngedicht« weiteren Kreisen bekannt

geworden ist. – An anderer Stelle finden wir ein eigenartiges Rezept
für die Behandlung heranwachsender Töchter:
Soll ein Mädchen lüstern sein,
Gebt ihr einen Wächter:
Die verbotne Frucht allein,
Reizet Evens Töchter.
Honigsüß wird der Genuß,
Wenn die Väter dräuen.
Und im Winkel schmeckt ein Kuß
Besser als im Freien!
Ein Studiengenosse streift das Gebiet der Eindeutigkeiten:
Ein schwarzes Auge, dessen Nacht
Nicht List noch Schalkheit fehlen.
Ein Mund für deinen Kuß gemacht,
Den Lieb und Scherz beseelen.
Ein Busen, halb dem Auge bloß,
Erobernde Gebärden,
Ein Körper – –
Hier überlasse ich Ihnen, welche Schönheiten usw.
Aber es gibt auch strenger Denkende:

Ein Stammbuch, Freund, soll, wie ich denke,
Ein heiliger Ort und keine Schänke,
Kein Sammelplatz von Zot und Wahnsinn sein.
Die Freundschaft stiftet sich hier Tempel und Altäre,
Nur reiner Weihrauch füllt der Göttin Atmosphäre,
Der Freund ätzt hier sein Bild in reinstem Marmor ein,
Und so wie dieses Bild muß seine Freundschaft sein.
Man frägt sich unwillkürlich, ob bestimmte Einträge im Stammbuch

dem Einzeichner Anlaß zu dieser Ermahnung gegeben haben. Im
allgemeinen war man ja damals nicht übermäßig prüde. Ich habe ein
anderes Stammbuch aus derselben Zeit gesehen, das wesentlich
derbere Einträge enthielt. Und dieses Stammbuch gehörte einem
Theologen! Vielleicht aber haben Einträge im Reiboldtschen
Stammbuch gestanden, die über das, was damals als zulässig galt,
hinausgingen, und der Besitzer hat diese Seiten nachträglich
entfernt. Hierfür würde der Umstand sprechen, daß mehrere Seiten
fehlen, die – nach der Seitenbezeichnung zu schließen – ursprünglich
darin waren. Andererseits könnten es auch leere Blätter gewesen
sein, denn auch der jetzige Bestand weist eine Anzahl
unbeschriebene Seiten auf. Und hier erhebt sich die weitere Frage,
warum das Stammbuch vom Jahre 1778 an nicht mehr benutzt
worden ist. Erschien dem Besitzer nach seiner Rückkehr ins
Philisterium die Umwelt so öde und nüchtern, daß es ihn nicht
verlockte, seinem neuen Bekanntenkreise ein bleibendes Andenken
zu sichern? Oder sollte er sich grollend vor den Erscheinungen der
neuen Zeit zurückgezogen haben? Der Inhalt der Randvermerke
spricht dagegen. Aus anderen Quellen habe ich über sein späteres
Leben nichts erfahren können, als daß er sich mit Henriette Eleonore
Sophie von Watzdorf vermählt hat und im Jahre 1799 als
Amtshauptmann des Vogtländischen Kreises unter Hinterlassung von
sechs Kindern in Taltitz gestorben ist. –
Kehren wir zum Buche zurück! Es ist bezeichnend für den Geist
des Zeitalters, daß von Liebe zur Heimat oder von Begeisterung für
das Vaterland so gut wie niemals die Rede ist. Aber auch
Weltbürgertum wird nur einmal, und zwar in dem kurzen
Wahlspruche »Patria est, ubi bene est« (zu deutsch: Wo es mir gut
geht, ist mein Vaterland) gepredigt. Hingegen findet das Ideal der
Freiheit, das anderthalb Jahrzehnte später so gewaltige
Umwälzungen hervorrufen sollte, in einigen der Einträge einen,
wenn auch nur vorsichtigen Ausdruck:
Wer den Wert der Freiheit kennt,
Nimmt aus ihr die Lehre,
Daß, was die Natur vergönnt,
Unser Wohl vermehre.
Rückt das Ende nun heran,
Oh, so wird ein freier Mann
Andrer Welten Ehre. –
Der Wahrheit echter Freund haßt Stolz und Heuchelei.

Denkt von der Gottheit groß, von Menschen gut doch frei,
Traut nie zu kühn dem oft sich täuschenden Verstande
Und trägt auch nicht als Knecht des Aberglaubens Bande.
(Clodius.)
Im Gegensatz hierzu steht der Eintrag des Schwagers Heinrich
Christian August von Tümpling, der sich an das Altüberlieferte hält:
Wir Kinder wollen’s so wie unsre Väter halten;
Treu, redlich, ohne Falsch, so hielten ’s auch die Alten.
Nüchterner Rationalismus und schwärmerische Sentimentalität

hielten sich – das geht auch aus unseren Einträgen hervor – im
Zeitalter des Rokoko die Wage. Aber es hatte sich auch schon ein
drittes gemeldet. Friedrich der Große hatte an die Pforten der Zeit
geklopft. Mannesmut, Ehre, tätiges Leben wurden nun wieder
erstrebenswert. Auch dies hat seinen Niederschlag im Stammbuch
gefunden:
Die Ehre kennt keinen Obern. Wer ihr zum Nachteil was gebeut,
Den fürchte nicht, wenn dich dein Leben zum Schutz der Ehre nicht gereut.
(Logau.)
Das Genie ist ein mutig Pferd, geht immer seinen stolzen, sichern
Gang vor sich hin, sprengt weg über alles, was ihm im Wege steht,
über Gräben und Hügel, Felder und Gebüsch – wohl ihm, wenn es nie
zu kurz faßt! –
Wer gern zu tun hat, dem gibt Gott zu schaffen.
(Eintrag Goethes.)
Wer groß im kleinen ist, wird größer sein im großen.
(Haller.)
* *
*
Wir haben uns bis jetzt in der Hauptsache mit dem Kern der
Einträge beschäftigt, mit den Aussprüchen in gebundener oder
ungebundener Rede, die der Einzeichner dem Besitzer des Buches
als Geleitwort zum bleibenden Andenken mit auf den Weg gab. Dazu
kam die eigenhändige Unterschrift und, wie wir gesehen haben, in
einigen Fällen das Wappen. Oft aber war auch noch anderes Beiwerk
vorhanden.
Abb. 6 Eintrag Goethes
Da findet sich z. B. neben der Unterschrift die Angabe eines

sogenannten »Symbols«; wir würden »Wahlspruch« sagen. Meist
sind es kurze Stichworte: »toujours sincère« (immer aufrichtig),
»toujours le même« und »semper idem« (beides: immer derselbe),
»Sympathie«, »Alles um Liebe«. Nur zweimal finden sich als
Wahlspruch Verse:
Nicht immer Weise,
Nicht immer ein Tor!
und
Poor is the friendless master of a world.
A world in purchase of a friend is gain.
(Young)
(zu deutsch:
Arm ist der freundlose Herr einer Welt.
Eine Welt als Kaufpreis für einen Freund ist Gewinn.)
Sodann die Höflichkeits-Bindesätze: So wie wir es noch jetzt für

unschicklich halten, unter unsere Briefe schlankweg unsern Namen
zu setzen, so glaubten damals viele – besonders scheinen es die
älteren Leute gewesen zu sein – einen Verstoß gegen die Regeln des
guten Tones zu begehen, wenn sie ihre Unterschrift mit dem
eigentlichen Eintrage nicht durch einen Schwall von
Höflichkeitsfloskeln verbanden. So heißt es zum Beispiel:
Mein Herr! Ich hatte das schätzbare Glück, mit unter die Zahl Ihrer
Freunde aufgenommen zu werden, und da ich itzt Sie verlassen muß,
so tue ich es mit dem Wunsch, daß Sie mich fernerhin Ihrer
schätzbaren Freundschaft und geneigten Andenkens würdigen mögen.
Noch schöner machen sich solche Redensarten auf französisch:
Monsieur – La permission que Vous m’avez donnée de mettre mon
nom dans ce livre d’amis me fait espérer l’exaucement de ma prière
que j’adresse par ceci à Vous en Vous conjurant de me conserver
toujours la même amitié dont Vous m’avez honoré jusqu’ici, qui je suis
– Monsieur – Votre – usw.
Herzlicher klingen die Worte:
Teuerster, schätzbarster Freund! Erinnern Sie sich bei diesen
wenigen Worten Ihres Freundes, der Sie auch in der Entfernung so
lieben und hochschätzen wird, wie es Ihr vortrefflicher Charakter
verdient.
Aber die Zeitenwende zeigt sich auch auf diesem Gebiete. Die
verbindenden Worte werden kürzer. Goethe schreibt nur »Zur
Erinnerung«; andere setzen den nackten Namen darunter.
Eigenartig sind die nicht seltenen Vermerke, durch welche zum
Ausdrucke kommt, daß zwei Personen, die sich hintereinander
eingetragen haben, durch Bande der Freundschaft verknüpft sind.
Meist geschieht dies durch die über zwei Seiten hinwegreichenden
Worte: Haec pagina || jungit amicos oder Quos junxit amicitia ||
junguntur pagina (der Papierbogen verbindet die Inschriften von
Freunden). An anderer Stelle heißt es kürzer; Amici || tia
(Freundschaft). Auch der Abschiedsgruß »Adieu mein || liebster
Freund« ist offenbar aus demselben Gedanken erwachsen. Noch
schlichter und zu Herzen gehender wird der Gedanke durch die
Worte ausgedrückt: »Ich suchte || dich, Freund.«
Je mehr man sich in das Buch vertieft, um so stärker wird man
gefesselt. Die Umwelt des Christian Ferdinand von Reiboldt und das
Zeitalter des ausgehenden Rokokos treten greifbar vor unsere Seele.
Aber auch das Buch selbst erhält Leben, wird ein selbständiges
Wesen, dem man seine Liebe dadurch bezeugen möchte, daß man
kosend mit der Hand über den Einband hinfährt.
Unwillkürlich zieht es uns zu Vergleichen. Man denkt daran, was
unsere – angeblich so hochentwickelte – Zeit aus den
Stammbüchern gemacht hat. Sie führen gar nicht mehr den
ehrlichen Namen »Stammbuch«. Bestenfalls heißt es »Album«, ein
Wort, das so gut wie gar nichts sagt. Aber es kommt noch
schlimmer. Denn »Poesie« leuchtets in Golddruck von dem schäbigen
Einband. Aber was darin steht, ist vielfach barbarische Unkultur, und
der abgedroschene Witz, auf die letzte Seite des Buches den Vers zu
schreiben:
Wer dich lieber hat als ich,
Der schreibe sich nur hinter mich!
gehört immer noch zu den besseren Einfällen.

Doch wir wollen gerecht sein. Die Stammbücher spielen bei uns
auch nicht entfernt die Rolle, die ihnen in früheren Jahrhunderten
zukam. In der Hauptsache stammen die Einträge ja doch nur von
Kindern und jungen Leuten, die noch nicht recht flügge geworden
sind, allenfalls von Lehrern und Geistlichen, die in Erfüllung einer Art
von Berufspflicht den Eintrag bewirkten. Wer einmal in hundert
Jahren die Stammbücher aus dem letzten Drittel des neunzehnten
und dem ersten Viertel des zwanzigsten Jahrhunderts betrachtet, der
täte uns Unrecht, wenn er unsern Kulturgrad nach diesen Büchern
beurteilen wollte. Ganz so tief sind wir im großen und ganzen denn
doch nicht gesunken!
Fußnoten:
[2] Vergleiche die von Oskar von Hase verfaßte Denkschrift
»Breitkopf u. Härtel«, Verlag Breitkopf u. Härtel, I. Band, S. 116.
[3] Vergleiche Band XIII, Heft 1/2, Seite 9 ff. der Mitteilungen des
Heimatschutzes.
[4] Näheres über Gottlob und Stenzel in der schon erwähnten
Denkschrift »Breitkopf u. Härtel«, I. Band, Seite 115 ff.
Unsere alte Linde
Von Marianne Bieber
In dem kleinen Orte Kleinolbersdorf bei Chemnitz fiel im Sommer
1923 die tausendjährige Linde am Kirchhof einem Sturme zum Opfer.
Die Pfarrerstochter, die im Schatten des Baumes aufgewachsen ist,
widmet dem untergegangenen Naturdenkmal ein Gedenkblatt.
Schon seit frühesten Kindheitstagen war sie uns eine liebe
Freundin – unsere alte Kirchhofslinde! Außerhalb des Friedhofes
stand sie, an der Umfassungsmauer und ihr Stamm bildete, völlig
krumm gebogen, – ob durch Alter oder durch Blitzschlag, war nicht
zu ermitteln – einen natürlichen Torbogen zum Friedhofseingange.
Ihr Alter war nicht festzustellen, die ältesten Dorfchroniken, die bis
ins fünfzehnte Jahrhundert zurückreichen, erwähnen schon ihr
Vorhandensein, aber nie ist darin der Tag ihrer Einpflanzung
genannt. So zogen Jahrhunderte an ihr vorüber, sie sah Geschlechter
kommen und vergehen und blieb immer die alte. Wenn an linden
Sommerabenden die Dämmerung ihre zartvioletten Schleier über die
heimatlichen Fluren breitete und süßer Heuduft das Tal durchwehte,
dann huschten wir Geschwister oft zur alten Mauer. Auf weichem
Moospolster eng beisammenhockend, lehnten wir uns an den breiten
Stamm unserer alten Linde – drei Männer konnten ihn kaum
umfassen – und wenn unser Auge verträumt den goldenen Reflexen
folgte, die der letzte Schein der Abendsonne in die Fenster unseres
Kirchleins zauberte, lauschten wir dem Blättergesäusel. Oh, wir
verstanden so gut, was uns unsere alte Freundin erzählte. Führten
doch der Anfang und das Ende eines jeden Lebensweges durch den
Bogen der alten Linde, zum Anfang, wenn der zarte Täufling durchs
Tor getragen ward, um im Kirchlein durch die heilige Taufe ein
junger Christ zu werden und am Ende, wenn der müde Erdenpilger
seine letzte Reise antrat.
Doch auch sonst war die alte Linde der Mittelpunkt des
Dorflebens. Um ihren Stamm tummelten sich die Dorfkinder mit
Haschen und Versteckspiel in frohem, jugendlichem Übermut und
sorgloser Heiterkeit. Die Konfirmanden schritten in feierlichem Zuge
hindurch, um als erwachsene Christen eingesegnet zu werden, um
Kraft zu finden für den beginnenden Ernst des Lebens. Aus den
Kindern, die sich einst am Fuße der alten Linde geneckt und gezaust
hatten, wurden Leute und manchem erblühte nun in ihrem Schatten
beim silbernen Schein des Mondes das selige Glück der ersten Liebe,
und hatten sich zwei junge Herzen fürs Leben gefunden, so schritten
gar bald zwei Glückliche Hand in Hand unter der Linde hindurch, um
den Bund der Herzen im trauten Kirchlein durch Gottes Segen zu
weihen.
Dem Sturme zum Opfer gefallene tausendjährige Linde am Kirchhof in

Kleinolbersdorf bei Chemnitz
So folgte ein Abschnitt des Lebens auf den anderen, bis dann der
letzte Weg herannahte. Manch ernster, stiller Zug ging durch das Tor,
tränenden Auges folgten wehe Herzen in verzweifeltem Schmerz
dem Sarge, der das Liebste für immer entführte zur letzten
Ruhestätte. Die greise Mutter, deren einziges Kind, die Stütze ihres
Alters, der unerbittliche Tod genommen, der gebeugte Witwer, der
mit seinen jammernden Kleinen das Grab der treuen Kameradin
aufsuchte, die verzweifelte Braut, deren blühendes Liebesglück des
Todes eisige Faust unbarmherzig zerstörte: sie alle gingen den Weg
durch das Tor des treuen Baumes.
Als die schweren Kriegsjahre kamen, gingen tiefbewegte
Menschen durchs Lindentor, um im Gotteshause Schutz und Hilfe für
teure Angehörige zu erbitten, und in der folgenden Zeit ward
mancher Kranz mit Ehrenschleife hindurchgetragen, um der
Nachwelt als Erinnerungszeichen das Angedenken Eines
wachzuhalten, der für das Vaterland sein Leben dahingegeben. Es
kam der Tag, an dem unsere liebe Glocke in früher Morgenstunde
ihren letzten Gruß durchs Dörflein hallen ließ. Groß und klein stand
unter der Linde, und manche stille Träne rann.
So teilte unsere alte Linde mit uns Freud und Leid; sie war uns
allen ans Herz gewachsen. Sie gehörte zu uns. Wie stolz waren wir,
wenn Schüler und Touristen auf der Wanderung unsern lieben Baum,
das seltene Naturgebilde, anstaunten und abzeichneten.
Längst schon bestand er nur noch aus geborstener Rinde, und es
war ein Wunder, daß er sich dennoch frisch erhielt, weiter grünte
und blühte. Sorgsam stützten wir den Hauptast, als sich
Altersschwäche bemerkbar machte, durch einen Pfeiler, und doch
sollte der Tag kommen, an dem unser treuer Baum, der fast ein
Jahrtausend allen Stürmen getrotzt hatte, morsch in sich
zusammenfiel. Ein heftiger Wirbelwind knickte eines Abends den
Bogen, so daß nur noch ein trauriger Stumpf stehen blieb, der wohl
oder übel entfernt werden mußte. Wie groß war die Bestürzung, als
diese Botschaft durchs Dorf lief. Manches Auge wurde feucht.
So ist mit unserm lieben Baum ein Zeuge vergangener
Jahrhunderte dahingesunken; aber in unseren Herzen wird das
Gedenken an unsere treue Lebensfreundin fortleben; Kindern und
Kindeskindern werden wir noch dankbar und stolz erzählen von
unserer alten Linde.
Leineweber-Weihnachten auf der
Neusorge vor fünfzig Jahren
Von William Bergmann, Sebnitz
Als ich im Jahre 1866 auf der Neusorge das Licht der Welt
erblickte, war Sebnitz ein armes Weberstädtchen. Von seinen
Weihnachtsfeiern will ich erzählen.
Wenn der liebe Herbst herankam, die Abern – Kartoffeln klang
fremd – im Keller lagen, finstere Nächte begannen, die Erde in
Dunkel zu hüllen, dann leuchteten aus der Ferne die ersten Strahlen
des kommenden Weihnachtssternes in die Nacht. Jetzt begann die
Zeit der seligen Weihnachtsträume. Jeder Tag und jede Nacht
wurden gezählt.
Die Anfangsvorbereitungen galten der Christmette, welche den
Glanzpunkt des Festes bildete. Wochenlang vorher fing man an, die
Lichter zu kaufen, die man zur Mette brauchte. »Pfenglichtel« hieß
man sie damals, die man nur nach und nach kaufen konnte, denn es
gab weniger Pfennige als heute. Die meisten Kinder – auch
Erwachsene – hatten jedes einen langen Nagel am Fenstergewändel,
an welchem die Lichter aufgehängt wurden, und zwar so, daß man
sie durchs Fenster von außen sehen konnte.
Es wurde gewetteifert, soviel als möglich Lichtel
zusammenzubringen, und man war stolz und glücklich, wenn sich die
»Globbe« vermehrte. Nun ging es in die Nachbarschaft gucken.
Siehe da: Der Hillemann Emil hatte schon zwölf, ich erst acht, der
Schwach Karle hatte noch mehr, aber der Just Elwin hatte wieder
weniger, das war ein Trost.
Die weiteren Vorboten kamen in Gestalt der Zimmermann
Karoline, Funkhähnel Male, Adler Mine und Pate Biesold seiner
Mutter, welche mit Pfefferkuchen in allen möglichen Farben, Figuren
und Formen hausieren gingen. Damit zu Weihnachten der nötige
Vorrat da war, wurden immer einige Stück gekauft und hingelegt.
Die Ausstellungen hatten begonnen. Man besichtigte bei
Henkbäcken, Hillbäcken, Krachbäcken, Heymannbäcken,
Endlerbäcken, Laubnerbäcken, Giebnerbäcken, Hochbäcken, wo ich
Pfefferkuchen mit malen durfte, weil seine Frau die Gruhnert Guste
von der Neusorge war, mit Bewunderung die Fenster mit den
ausgestellten Männern, Frauen, Reitern usw. Die schönsten
Pfefferkuchen hatte der Güntherbäcke …
Sorgenvolle Stunden bereitete die Ruprechtzeit. – Ob er heute
kommen wird? … Da plötzlich schlug die Rute unbarmherzig an die
Fensterläden. – Der Ruprecht kommt! der Ruprecht kommt! – Vor
Schreck schleunigst alle unter die Leineweberstühle gekrochen und
gebetet. – Die Äpfel und Nüsse mußten in allen Ecken und Winkeln
zusammengesucht werden und wurden sofort verspult. Aus den
leeren Nußschalen wurden Schnepperchen gemacht, Zwirnsfäden
drumgebunden und Holzspänel hineingesteckt. Damit wurde bis
Weihnachten geschneppert.
Haufens Großer parierte immer nicht. Den hat der Ruprecht in den
Sack gesteckt und mitgenommen. Der hat aber gezappelt und
gegorgelt …
Das Ausschneiden der Modellierbogen spielte eine große Rolle. Es
entstanden Kirchen, Häuser, Burgen, deren Fenster mit buntem
Papier überzogen, durch Lichtel erleuchtet, einen herrlichen Anblick
boten.
Zum Kammerfenster wurde jeden Morgen hinausgeguckt. Oh, es
hat geschneit! Diese himmlische Freude! Von diesem Tag an mußten
alle Pferde auf den Straßen Glockengeläut tragen, und dieser Klang
läutete in unsere Herzen die seligmachende, gnadenbringende
Weihnachtszeit ein.
Während der Adventszeit erfüllte die Leineweberstube täglich der
Gesang der Weihnachtslieder: »Ehre sei Gott in der Höhe«, »O
Tannenbaum, o Tannenbaum«, »Ihr Kinderlein kommet« oder »Stille
Nacht, heilige Nacht« usw.
Der Vater ging jeden Sonntag in die Kirche und offenbarte zu
Hause in der Familie die Weihnachtsbotschaft, die er durch die
Predigt vernommen hatte.
Nicht unerwähnt soll bleiben, daß in den letzten Wochen in vielen
Geschäften die bunten Wachsstöckel in allen Größen ausgestellt
waren, welche hauptsächlich ein Geschenk für die Kundschaft
bildeten. Große Bewunderung riefen die Spielsachen bei Buchbinder
Schuberts und bei Eckböhmens hervor. Stundenlang wurden sie
angestaunt.
Was nun den finanziellen Teil der Leineweber betraf, so konnte
von Reichtümern keine Rede sein. Der dicke Haufe, bekannt als der
fleißigste Leineweber von der Neusorge und Retschine, machte jede
Woche eine Werfte ab und verdiente fünf Taler. Die übrigen
Leineweber, wie mein Vater, brauchten ziemlich zwei Wochen dazu.
Vor dem Abmachen mußte gewöhnlich eine Nacht durchgearbeitet
werden; denn Montag war öfters blauer Montag. Die Woche vor dem
Fest ging es natürlich feste Tag und Nacht, damit Geld ins Haus kam.
Als der heilige Abend herangekommen war, gingen Vater und Mutter
– Mutter mit dem Tragkorbe – in die Stadt einkaufen. Der
geheimnisvolle Bescherungsakt ließ dann nicht mehr lange auf sich
warten. Beim Onkel Adolf horchten wir ungeduldig auf das Zeichen.
In Blitzesgeschwindigkeit war der Gabentisch gestürmt. Nun wurde
bewundert, probiert, gekostet, und es wurden die Häuflein kritisch
betrachtet, daß ja nicht eins mehr hatte als das andre.
Das Christgeschenk erhielt seinen Platz auf dem Längertüchel, das
nur Sonntags und Festtags den Leineweberstuhl zierte, oder auf der
Sitzebank.
Ins Bette wollte niemand gehen. Die Glocken tönten, die Mette
wurde eingeläutet. Der Höhepunkt war da. Alle Lichtel und
Wachsstöckel wurden mitgenommen und in langen Reihen
aufgestellt. Tausende von Lichtern erglänzten, und ein köstlicher
Duft durchströmte die Kirche. Die alte, in Fleisch und Blut
übergegangene Bergsche Motette, das Mettelied, verfehlte nicht ihre
Wirkung und erfüllte alle Herzen mit heiligem Zauber. Umfangen von
reinster und seligster Weihnachtsstimmung gings nach Hause.
Aus vielen Häusern leuchtete Kerzenglanz.
Im eisernen Ofen in der Mitte der Stube wurde Feuer gemacht und
sich drumgesetzt. Die Schmauserei ging los mit beneidenswertem
Appetite so lange, bis alles weg war.
Vom ersten Feiertag bis zum Hohen Neujahr zog alle Welt durch
die Stadt, um die Schattenspiele, Hirtenhäuser, Pyramiden, Sterne
und Christbäume – letztere waren damals noch nicht so Mode wie
heute – in Augenschein zu nehmen. Die Fensterläden waren
natürlich alle offen. Bei Bauer Stohbachs war ein Krippel mit
Springbrunnen aufgestellt, ein Wunderwerk der ganzen Umgegend.
Scharenweise standen die Leute vor dem Fenster.
Wir zu Hause hatten das unbeschreibliche Glück, auch ein Krippel
zu besitzen, beweglich mit Handbetrieb. Alle Kinder der Neusorge
kamen und wollten die Leier leiern. Außer Joseph und Maria, die das
Christkindlein bischte, sah man die Weisen aus dem Morgenlande,
Hirten und Schafe. Auf zwei beweglichen Bahnen liefen durch die
Häuserreihen Figuren, deren jede einen Sebnitzer Namen bekommen
hatte. – Achtung! Jetzt kommt die Hampel Hanne, die Bockmale, die
Kahlguste, die Krausenguste, der Franz vom Hofe, der Postelbatz,
der dicke Vollmann, der Bergmann Emil, der Lautevetter, der
Hundehenke, der Trampelhenke, der Bäumelhenke, der Nasenhenke,
der blecherne Hantzsch, der eiserne Hantzsch, der Kullrübentürke,
der Gückelpeschke, der alte Schleifer Hartmann, der Kätzrichter,
Budäus genannt, Kacheltopp, der alte Knöfel, der alte
Mäuerschneiders Kitzwauwau, Türmelwirt und Finkenritter usw.
So feierte man Weihnachten vor fünfzig Jahren.
Flurnamen im Dienste der
Ortsgeschichte
Von Oskar Merker, Dresden
Lamprecht schreibt im dritten Bande seiner »Deutschen
Geschichte«: »Weit mehr als die Eroberung der Slawenländer im
zwölften und dreizehnten Jahrhundert erscheint ihre Germanisation
als ein wahrhaft erstaunlicher Vorgang: es ist die Großtat unseres
Volkes während des Mittelalters.« Aber gerade diese Zeit ist noch
voller ungelöster Rätsel, vor allem deshalb, weil das wichtigste Mittel
geschichtlicher Forschung, die Urkunde, gerade für jene Zeit uns so
gut wie im Stich läßt. Und doch sind wir nicht so verlassen, wie es
zunächst aussieht! Meitzen sagt in seinem Werke über »Siedelung
und Agrarwesen der West- und Ostgermanen«: »In der Tat wandeln
wir in jedem Dorfe gewissermaßen in den Ruinen der Vorzeit, und
zwar in Ruinen, die an Alter die romantischen Trümmer der
mittelalterlichen Burgen und Stadtmauern weit hinter sich lassen. Bei
jedem Schritt, überall in Hof und Feld können wir Spuren der
ältesten Anlage begegnen, und das Kartenbild der Besitzungen ist
eine eigenartige Schrift, die uns Ideen und Absichten der Gründer
wie in Hieroglyphen lesbar übermittelt«.
Diesen Gedanken wollen wir heute etwas nachgehen, und zwar
vor allem unter Berücksichtigung der Flur Schullwitz (östlich
Dresden, südlich Radeberg).
Schullwitz liegt am Schullwitzbache, einem rechten Nebenflüßchen
der Wesenitz. Die Gehöfte liegen auf der Höhe rechts und links des
Baches. Die Fluren ziehen sich in langen Streifen von jedem Gehöft
nord- bzw. südwärts. Also das typische Bild des mit Waldhufen
ausgestatteten Zeilendorfes – also: eine Gründung der
Kolonisationszeit! Das Jahr der Gründung nennt uns keine Urkunde.
1378 ist die älteste bis jetzt durch das »Zinsregister von 1378«
bekannte Jahreszahl[5].
Die Hufen mit der Richtung nach Süden enden am Landraine. Er
bildet nach Oberreit[6] die Grenze zwischen dem Amte Dresden, zu
dem Schullwitz gehörte, und dem Amte Lohmen. Parallel zu ihm,
aber im Norden durchzieht »die Straße« die Dorfflur. Nicht die
Dorfstraße war also die eigentliche Verkehrsstraße; schon daß die
Dorfstraße mit dem Dorf im Osten eigentlich aufhört, beweist dies.
Die Straße im Norden – noch heute wird sie nicht selten schlechthin
»die« Straße genannt – hat eine gar reiche Geschichte. Ich brauche
nur die Namen aufzuzählen, die sie im Laufe der Jahrhunderte
geführt hat, um sie zu beleben: die Dreßnische Strasse – Stolpischer
Weg – Hornstraße – Poststraße – Hohe Straße – aber auch: alte
Dresdner Straße – alte Hornstraße – alte Poststraße – alte Hohe
Dresdner Straße: der Verkehr ist abgelenkt auf die jenseits der
Höhen geführte Bautzner Straße[7]!
Auf der Skizze habe ich nördlich der »Straße« den Namen
»Ameisenberg« eingetragen, zugleich die Dorfstraße mit diesem
Ameisenberge verbunden. Diese Verbindung führt nun heute noch
den Namen Viebig, Viehweg. Die Zeiten werden wieder lebendig, wo
das Vieh zur Weide hinausgetrieben wurde, hinaus zu dem der
Allgemeinheit gehörenden Besitze, der Allmende. Knothe sagt
einmal, daß dieses Wort in der Lausitz nicht festzustellen sei. Dr.
Schoof hat sich nun mit diesem Wort eingehend beschäftigt[8]. Er
kommt zu dem Ergebnisse, daß das Wort »Ameisenberg« unter
volksetymologischer Anlehnung an mundartliche Formen für Ameise
aus jenem »Allmende« entstanden ist. Dann kennt aber auch die
Lausitz dieses Wort.
Ich habe nun auch das Sammelwerk der Luise Gerbing[9]
durchgearbeitet. Leider ist diese fleißige Sammlerin vollständig
voraussetzungslos an ihre Aufgabe herangetreten. Trotzdem wären
wir glücklich, wenn wir recht viele solcher Flurnamensammlungen
hätten! Auch Sachsen braucht noch viele Helfer!! – Aus der
Sammlung der Luise Gerbing einige Beispiele zu unserer Frage: Wie
hat sich das Wort »Allmende« gewandelt? In der Flur Emleben
heißen Wiesen »die krummen Alken«, mundartlich »die krummen
Alten«, urkundlich 1453 »bie der krummen Almten, Almpten«; 1469
»in der krummen Almoten«; 1479 »in der krummen almeit«; 1492
»in der almeth«; 1641 »in der krummen Alten«. Dazu steht die
Bemerkung: »Eines der seltenen Beispiele von Erhaltung des
Almende-Namens im Gebiet. Die betreffenden Flurstücke sind
Gemeindewiesen.« In einer andern Flur: »Die Alten oder Alken«,
mundartlich die Alten, 1641 »uf der Alten«. – Anmerkung: »Früher
Gemeindeland.« Einer der wenigen im Gothaischen erhaltenen
Anklänge an »die Almende«. Noch ein drittes Beispiel: »Am
Falkenrode«; mundartlich »Dalkenrode«; »Wüstung«? Schade, daß
die Sammlerin nicht auch hierin das Wort Alke (D – alken – rode!) –
erkannt hat, sie hätte dann sicherlich wie bei so vielen ähnlichen
Beispielen »Gemeindeland« hinzufügen müssen. Und das ist das
Wesentliche, daß alle diese Fluren Gemeindeland sind oder doch
gewesen sind. Auch für unsere Flur Schullwitz trifft das zu. Der
»Ameisenberg« liegt ja auch an der Grenze des Gebietes, im
ansteigenden, hügeligen Gelände. Den entgegengesetzten Abhang
besitzt die Gemeinde Weißig. Diese kennt nun zwar anschließend an
unsern »Ameisenberg« diesen Namen nicht, sie spricht dafür aber
von »Hutung vom Dorfe nach dem Gemeindebusche«[10]. Also auch
hier wieder: Verbindung von Gemeindeland und Viebig, Viehweg!
Wenn wir nun in Schullwitzer Flur den Namen »Alke« lesen, so wird
wohl niemand mehr an die Dohle denken, die nach Lexer[11] und
andern mittelhochdeutsch alke geheißen hat, wir werden vielmehr
sagen:
Alke = Ameisenberg = Allmende.
Und damit erweitert sich ungesucht der Gemeindebesitz im
Grenzgebiete der Flur! Daß noch das Kroki von 1835 Waldreste auch
hier zeigt, ergänzt diese Gedankenreihe.
Nun habe ich daneben den Flurnamen »Aspigstraße« und »Am
Aspig« eingetragen. »Der Aspig am Rodelande« sagt der Volksmund
und weckt damit Bilder der vergangenen Tage. Aber Aspig? Ist Aspe
= Espe = Zitterpappel? Dr. Schoof schreibt 1917 in den »Deutschen
Geschichtsblättern«: »Es steht heute fest, daß die große Zahl von
Bäumen (wie Erle, Esche, Espe, Buche, Eiche, Hasel, Ulme), die
scheinbar in den Flur- und Ortsnamen enthalten sind, erst später
durch Volksetymologie eingedeutet worden sind, daß es unsern
Vorfahren bei der ersten Besitzergreifung und Besiedelung des
Bodens ferngelegen hat, denselben nach rein zufälligen, äußeren
Merkmalen zu benennen. Für sie war die Verwertung des Bodens als
Acker-, Trift-, Wiesen-, Heide-, Waldboden und die Art seiner
rechtlichen Ausnutzung allein maßgebend.« Und an anderer Stelle[12]
schreibt er: »Erkennungsmerkmale für die Umdeutung bieten meist
noch die zweiten Kompositionsteile, ferner die Tatsache, daß alte
Flurnamen nie nach Zufälligkeiten, sondern nach tiefeingreifenden,
dauernden Lebensverhältnissen (Ackerbau, Jagd, Viehzucht)
benannt und erst später bei veränderter Kultur nach zufälligen
Ereignissen willkürlich oder unwillkürlich umgedeutet worden sind.
Hierfür bietet die systematische Flurnamenforschung immer neue
Belege, und sie räumt mit den alten märchenhaften
Deutungsversuchen (Mythologie, Keltentum) auf«.
Oskar Merker
Details
Machen wir uns diese Gedankengänge zu eigen, dann müssen wir
für »Aspig« eine dementsprechende Erklärung suchen. Oesterley[13]
bringt in seinem Wörterbuche den württembergischen Ort
Allmerspann und fügt hinzu: 1090 Almaresbiunt.
Also, so können wir wohl unbedenklich folgern, ist »pann« = biunt
– biunda, beunde. Grimm bringt eine Reihe von Belegen, aus denen
hervorgeht, daß es sich dabei um ein umzäuntes Stück Land
gehandelt hat, aber außerhalb der Allmende, nur für eine
beschränkte Zahl von Bevorrechteten. Und »es«? Aß, Eß ist der
Stamm zu unserm Verb »essen« – Eß die Weide, der Weideplatz.
Ein neuer Zug im Geschichtsbilde: neben die Gemeinde, die
Gemeinschaft Gleichberechtigter, tritt ein Bevorrechteter. Wer ist es
gewesen? Vielleicht der Locator, der spätere Erbrichter? Schullwitz
hat doch aber kein Erbgericht! Doch das scheint nur so. Das Gut Nr.
1 – in der Nähe des Nixenteiches – ist das alte Erbgericht, sein
Besitzer heißt heute noch im Volksmunde der Erbrichter. Und in
Urkunden wird ja des öfteren »das Schullwitzer Erbgericht« erwähnt.
Nun liegt aber dieser »Aspig« an der Grenze der Schönfelder Flur;
die »Aspigstraße« führt nach Schönfeld, sie kommt von Schönfeld –
von dem Orte, in dessen Abhängigkeit Schullwitz sehr bald geraten
war. Feststellen, urkundlich feststellen läßt es sich freilich nicht, ob
der Bevorrechtete nicht doch der Schönfelder Gutsherr gewesen ist.
Wer waren seine Schullwitzer Gutsuntertanen? Waren es Deutsche
oder waren es Slawen? Zweierlei kann uns Antwort geben. Zunächst
die Größe der Flur. Das Stück, das wir bis jetzt betrachtet haben,
also nach Osten zu bis zum »Viebig«, dieses Stück ist etwa die
Hälfte der Gesamtfläche, also etwa zweihundertvierzig Hektar, da die
Schullwitzer Gesamtflur vierhundertsechsundsiebzig Hektar
beträgt[14]. Ich vermute, daß dieses Stück die ursprünglich gerodete
Fläche darstellt, daß sich erst später das Bedürfnis herausgestellt
hat, weiter zu roden, die Siedlung weiter ostwärts vorzuschieben.
Dort hat sich ja auch der Wald am längsten gehalten, und auch in
jenem Teile, nicht hier haben wir den Flurnamen »die Folge«, auf
den ich noch einzugehen habe. Zweihundertvierzig Hektar sind nun
nach den Untersuchungen von Meitzen[15], Markgraf[16], Langer[17]
eine Fläche, die weit über das Höchstmaß slawischer Siedlungen
hinausgeht.
Meitzen für Meißen: Hundertsiebenundsechzig Hektar

Markgraf für Leipzig: Hundertdreiundsiebzig Hektar
Langer – allgemein Mindestmaß deutscher Siedlungen
zweihundertfünfundzwanzig Hektar.
Und das Zweite sind wieder Flurnamen. Humelius hat auf seinem
Risse[18], der ältesten kartographischen Darstellung der Gegend, an
der Stelle des Ameisenberges »der Schullwitzer Puschel«; südlich der
Alten Straße gibt es einen »Heidehübel«; südlich des Dorfes ein
»Gründel«; im östlichen Teil der Flur ein »Seegründel«; Oeder[19]
trägt ein: »Flößl« – es ist der Grenzfluß zwischen Schullwitz und
Weißig. Also eine Reihe von Wörtern mit der Endung »el«; die aber
erzählt von oberdeutschem Einschlage. Münchner Kindl, nicht:
Münchner Kindchen! Diese Endung »chen« haben erst neuerdings
ortsfremde Schreiber mehrfach gebraucht. Sie haben auch hier nicht
geahnt, daß sie damit einen charakteristischen Zug der Gegend
verwischen!
In diesem Zusammenhang ist es auch wichtig, daß sämtliche
Dörfer der Hochfläche, übrigens auch die nördlich anschließenden,
von Ober- und Niederdorf sprechen, nicht von Unterdorf. Professor
Dr. Meiche hat in seiner bekannten Arbeit über diese Frage den
Beweis geführt, daß dieses »Nieder« thüringische Siedler
voraussetzt[20].
Und nun ein Wort zu dem Flurnamen »die Folge«. Müller-
Fraureuth sagt in seinem »Wörterbuche der obersächsischen und
erzgebirgischen Mundarten«: »Folge, die Folgen, Feldstücke, die für
sich – auf früherer Waldfläche – fern vom übrigen Besitz der Bauern
liegen.« Das trifft hier zu, erklärt aber nicht den Namen. Knothe[21]
hat versucht, den Begriff »Folge« zu erfassen. Er sagt: »Es trat gar
bald der Fall ein, daß ein Bauer zu dem ihm zugemessenen
Hufengute von der Hufe eines anderen oder von dem noch nicht
aufgeteilten Gemeindelande noch ein Stück erblich hinzuerwarb.
Dieses Stück lag nicht »in den vier Rainen« seines Gutes, gehörte
aber zum Hauptgute als integrierender Bestandteil, wurde also mit
diesem vererbt und verkauft. Den Übergang eines Besitztums in den
Besitz eines andern bezeichnete man im Mittelalter mit dem
Ausdruck »folgen«. Folge, mittelalterlich – lateinisch vollunga, also
ein Pertinenzstück«.
Mit Knothe hat sich Dr. Seeliger in der »Festschrift der Stadt
Löbau« auseinandergesetzt[22]. Eine Widerlegung der Knothischen
Bestimmung kann ich in seiner Arbeit aber nicht erblicken. Ohne
Bedeutung für die Frage ist seine Feststellung der Lage der Löbauer
Folge. Da ist mir denn doch die Feststellung Knothes wertvoller, daß
der Ausdruck »Folge« in den deutsch angelegten oder nach
deutscher Weise umgestalteten Dörfern, und nur in solchen, nicht in
altwendisch verbliebenen, vorkommt. Trifft das zu, so müssen die
Orte mit dem Flurnamen der »Folge« auch der Größe nach deutsche
Orte sein, also über der bereits erwähnten Höchstgrenze liegen. Das
trifft mit verschwindend wenigen Ausnahmen denn auch bei den bis
jetzt bearbeiteten sächsischen Gemeinden zu. Neben etwa
fünfundsechzig großen stehen folgende kleine Fluren:
In der Amtshauptmannschaft Dresden- 161
Liebau
Altst.: Hektar
In der Amtshauptmannschaft Birkigt 86 Hektar
109
In der Amtshauptmannschaft Pirna: Prossen
Hektar
In der Amtshauptmannschaft 161
Paulsdorf
Dippoldiswalde: Hektar
193
In der Amtshauptmannschaft Flöha: Braunsdorf
Hektar
135
In der Amtshauptmannschaft Zittau: Zittel
Hektar
Davon könnte sogar noch Braunsdorf ausscheiden. Liebau und
Paulsdorf liegen auch hart an der Grenze Meitzens! Es wäre lohnend,
dem Gedanken weiter nachzugehen[23]!
Nördlich der Straße heißt die Flur »In Boden«. Buck schreibt in
seinem »Oberdeutschen Flurnamenbuche« zu »beunt«, »biunda«,
daß daraus im Allgäu »Bunk«, in Franken aber »Both« geworden sei.
L. Gerbing hat: »Unter der Bullerleite – Im Boden«; mundartlich:
»uff der Butterweide«; Anmerkung: Die Generalkarte hat
»Bullerleite«, das Meßtischblatt »Butterleiste«. Öder: »Der
Butterweck«, 1669: »Der Butterweck vfn Herrenberge«;
»Butterweck«, mundartlich: »Boderweck«. Wesentlich ist, daß von
Guttenberg[24] unter den vielen Verwitterungsformen des Wortes
»Peunt« auch die Form »boten« nachweist, und zwar nur in
Oberfranken!
Wir erinnern uns: biunda = eingezäuntes Privatgrundstück. Hier:
Entwickelungsreihe bis hin zu »Butter«. Was sagen dazu unsere
sächsischen »Butterberge«? Ein besonders lehrreiches Beispiel
dürfte der Bischofswerdaer Butterberg sein. In einer Skizze über den
Stadtwald schreibt Wustmann[25] betr. des Butterberges: »Ein großer
Teil des Butterbergreviers zeigte zu Anfang des vorigen Jahrhunderts
in floristischer Beziehung ein ganz anderes Gepräge als heute, da
sich an dem Abhange des Berges Weideflächen hinaufzogen, die
eine Triftflora beherbergten. Als aber im Jahre 1835 das Rittergut
Pickau, zu dem ein Teil des Butterbergreviers gehört, seitens der
Stadt Bischofswerda nicht mehr verpachtet wurde, waren die
Schafhutungen überflüssig«.
Hier also außerhalb der Flur liegendes Gelände – niederdeutsch
heißt außen, außerhalb »buten«; dann: Besitz eines Rittergutes,
nicht der Allgemeinheit – biunda! Unter den Gothaischen Beispielen
fanden wir bereits: »1669 der Butterweck vfn Herrenberge«! Hierher
gehört sicher auch das bekannte »Buttertöppel« Frauensteins in der
Nähe des weltberühmten »Weißen Steines«, das auf ehemaligem
Rittergutsgebiete liegt. Und der Schullwitzer »Boden« hat auch –
noch bis vor kurzer Zeit – dem »Erbrichter« gehört!
»In Boden« und »Ameisenberg«,
»Aspig« und »Alke« –
in unserer Flur also »Biunda« und »Allmende« zweimal
nebeneinander, eine Tatsache, die sich auch sonst bestätigt findet,
die also für die Ortsgeschichte ein Mittel sein kann, das eine zu
finden, wenn das andere bereits bekannt ist!
Fassen wir zusammen, so kommen wir zu folgendem Ergebnisse:
Schullwitz ist eine deutsche Siedlung – trotz des
slawisch klingenden Ortsnamens. Sie ist entstanden in der
Zeit der ostdeutschen Kolonisation: Hufeneinteilung der
Flur, Dorfanlage (Zeilendorf) beweisen das, ebenso das

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PART GENERAL SCIENCES / 59

PART NAIL CARE / 211

PART BUSINESS SKILLS / 419

3 Your Professional Image / 30

4 Communicating for Success / 40

PART GENERAL SCIENCES / 59

7 Skin Structure, Growth, and Nutrition / 126

8 Nail Structure and Growth / 152

9 Nail Disorders and Diseases / 160

10 The Basics of Chemistry / 172

11 Nail Product Chemistry Simplified / 186

PART NAIL CARE / 211

15 Electric Filing / 282

16 Nail Tips and Wraps / 305

17 Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements / 325

Why Study Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder

19 The Creative Touch / 386

21 On the Job / 453

22 The Salon Business / 478

■ Procedure 5–2 Cleaning and Disinfecting Foot Spas or Basins / 90

■ Procedure 5–3 Proper Hand Washing / 98

■ Procedure 5–4 Handling an Exposure Incident During a Manicure / 99

■ Procedure 13–1 Preservice Procedure / 239

■ Procedure 13–2 Postservice Procedure / 242

■ Procedure 13–3 Performing a Basic Manicure / 244

■ Procedure 13–4 Hand and Arm Massage / 248

■ Procedure 13–5 Polishing the Nails / 251

■ Procedure 13–6 Paraffin Wax Treatment / 253

■ Procedure 14–1 Performing a Basic Pedicure / 274

■ Procedure 14–2 Foot and Leg Massage / 278

■ Procedure 15–1 Disinfecting Metal File Bits / 302

■ Procedure 16–1 Nail Tip Application / 312

■ Procedure 16–2 Nail Tip Removal / 315

■ Procedure 16–3 Nail Wrap Application / 316

■ Procedure 16–4 Fabric Wrap Maintenance / 319

■ Procedure 16–5 Fabric Wrap Removal / 322

■ Procedure 17–1 One-Color Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder

■ Procedure 18–3 UV or LED Gel over Forms / 374

■ Procedure 18–4 UV and LED Gel Maintenance / 377

■ Procedure 18–6 UV and LED Gel Removal—Hard Gel / 382