Linear waves

Two-dimensional periodic water wave problem

Governing equation:

∇2 𝜙 = 0

Boundary conditions:

𝜕𝜙
− =0 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = −ℎ
𝜕𝑧 𝑧 = −ℎ

𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂
− = − , 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 𝜂 𝑥, 𝑡
𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑡 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑥
2 2 𝜙 𝑥, 𝑡 = 𝜙 𝑥 + 𝐿, 𝑡
𝜕𝜙 1 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜙
− + + + 𝑔𝜂 = 𝐶 𝑡 . 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 𝜂 𝑥, 𝑡
𝜕𝑡 2 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑧 𝜙 𝑥, 𝑡 = 𝜙 𝑥, 𝑡 + 𝑇
Linear waves
Separation of Variables

Assume the solution of the Laplace equation can be expressed as:

𝜙 𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡 = 𝑋(𝑥) ∙ 𝑍(𝑧) ∙ 𝑇(𝑡)

It is reasonable to assume

𝑇 𝑡 = sin 𝜔𝑡

since the wave solution should be periodic. Where 𝜔 is the angular frequency of the wave, and 𝜔 = 2𝜋 Τ𝑇 .

Now we have

𝜙 𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡 = 𝑋(𝑥) ∙ 𝑍(𝑧) ∙ sin 𝜔𝑡

Linear waves
Substitute
Only way that this equation can be satisfied is
𝜙 𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡 = 𝑋(𝑥) ∙ 𝑍(𝑧) ∙ sin 𝜔𝑡

into the Laplace equation 1 𝑑2𝑋 2

= −𝑘
𝑋 𝑑𝑥 2
𝑑2 𝑋(𝑥) 𝑑2𝑍 𝑥
∙ 𝑍 𝑧 ∙ sin 𝜔𝑡 + 𝑋 𝑥 ∙ sin 𝜔𝑡 = 0 1 𝑑2𝑍
𝑑𝑥 2 𝑑𝑧 2 2 = 𝑘2
𝑍 𝑑𝑧

and now the equations are ODEs

1 𝑑2𝑋 1 𝑑2𝑍
+ =0
𝑋 𝑑𝑥 2 𝑍 𝑑𝑧 2
Linear waves
Solution for the ODEs

𝑑2𝑋
2 + 𝑘 2𝑋 = 0 𝑋 𝑥 = 𝐴 cos 𝑘𝑥 + 𝐵 sin 𝑘𝑥
𝑑𝑥

𝑑2𝑍 𝑍 𝑧 = 𝐶𝑒 𝑘𝑧 + 𝐷𝑒 −𝑘𝑧
2 − 𝑘 2𝑍 = 0
𝑑𝑧

𝜙 𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡 = (𝐴 cos 𝑘𝑥 + 𝐵 sin 𝑘𝑥)(𝐶𝑒 𝑘𝑧 + 𝐷𝑒 −𝑘𝑧 ) sin 𝜔𝑡

To determine A,B,C and D, we need boundary conditions.

(1) Lateral periodicity condition

cos 𝑘𝐿 = 1, sin 𝑘𝐿 = 0
𝐴 cos 𝑘𝑥 + 𝐵 sin 𝑘𝑥 = 𝐴 cos 𝑘(𝑥 + 𝐿) + 𝐵 sin 𝑘(𝑥 + 𝐿)
= 𝐴 cos 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝑘𝐿 − sin 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝑘𝐿 + 𝐵(sin 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝑘𝐿 + cos 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝑘𝐿) 2𝜋
𝑘=
𝐿
Linear waves
Let’s keep one part of the solution:
To be true for all x and t,
𝜙 𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡 = 𝐴 cos 𝑘𝑥 (𝐶𝑒 𝑘𝑧 + 𝐷𝑒 −𝑘𝑧 ) sin 𝜔𝑡
𝐶𝑒 −𝑘ℎ − 𝐷𝑒 𝑘ℎ = 0
(2) Bottom boundary condition
Thus
𝜕𝜙
𝑤=− =0 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = −ℎ 𝐶 = 𝐷𝑒 2𝑘ℎ
𝜕𝑧

−𝐴 cos 𝑘𝑥 𝑘𝐶𝑒 𝑘𝑧 − 𝑘𝐷𝑒 −𝑘𝑧 sin 𝜔𝑡 = 0. 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = −ℎ 𝜙 = 𝐴 cos 𝑘𝑥 (𝐷𝑒 2𝑘ℎ 𝑒 𝑘𝑧 + 𝐷𝑒 −𝑘𝑧 ) sin 𝜔𝑡
or
or

−𝐴𝑘 cos 𝑘𝑥 𝐶𝑒 −𝑘ℎ − 𝐷𝑒 𝑘ℎ sin 𝜔𝑡 = 0 𝜙 = 𝐴𝐷𝑒 𝑘ℎ cos 𝑘𝑥 (𝑒 𝑘(ℎ+𝑧) + 𝑒 −𝑘(ℎ+𝑧) ) sin 𝜔𝑡

 Linear waves

𝜙 = 𝐴𝐷𝑒 𝑘ℎ cos 𝑘𝑥 (𝑒 𝑘(ℎ+𝑧) + 𝑒 −𝑘(ℎ+𝑧) ) sin 𝜔𝑡

𝜙 = 2𝐴𝐷𝑒 𝑘ℎ cos 𝑘𝑥 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) sin 𝜔𝑡

Let’s define 𝐺 = 2𝐴𝐷𝑒 𝑘ℎ

𝜙 = 𝐺 cos 𝑘𝑥 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) sin 𝜔𝑡

 Linear waves
𝜙 = 𝐺 cos 𝑘𝑥 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) sin 𝜔𝑡

(3) Dynamics free surface boundary condition

2 2
𝜕𝜙 1 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜙
− + + + 𝑔𝑧 = 𝐶 𝑡 . 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 𝜂 𝑥, 𝑡
𝜕𝑡 2 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑧

Expand the equation at a known location (𝑧 = 0), by Taylor series:

2 2 2 2
𝜕𝜙 1 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜙 1 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜙
𝑔𝑧 − + + = 𝑔𝑧 − + +
𝜕𝑡 2 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑡 2 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑧
𝑧=𝜂 𝑧=0
2 2
𝜕 2𝜙 1 𝜕 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜙
+𝜂 𝑔 − + + +⋯=𝐶 𝑡
𝜕𝑡𝜕𝑧 2 𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑧
𝑧=0
Linear waves
2 2 2 2
𝜕𝜙 1 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜙 1 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜙
𝑔𝑧 − + + = 𝑔𝑧 − + +
𝜕𝑡 2 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑡 2 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑧
𝑧=𝜂 𝑧=0
2 2
𝜕 2𝜙 1 𝜕 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜙
+𝜂 𝑔 − + + +⋯=𝐶 𝑡
𝜕𝑡𝜕𝑧 2 𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑧
𝑧=0

Linearize the equation, assuming small waves (𝜂 𝑎𝑛𝑑 𝑣𝑒𝑙𝑜𝑐𝑖𝑡𝑦 𝑎𝑟𝑒 𝑠𝑚𝑎𝑙𝑙), the boundary condition yields

𝜕𝜙
− + 𝑔𝜂 =𝐶 𝑡
𝜕𝑡 𝑧=0

or
1 𝜕𝜙 𝐶 𝑡
𝜂= ቤ +
𝑔 𝜕𝑡 𝑧=0 𝑔
 Linear waves
We substitute 𝐺𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ 𝐶 𝑡
𝜂(𝑥, 𝑡) = cos 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝜔𝑡 +
𝑔 𝑔
𝜙 = 𝐺 cos 𝑘𝑥 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) sin 𝜔𝑡
The mean of 𝜂 should be zero, thus 𝐶 𝑡 = 0
To the boundary condition.
so, we have
1 𝜕𝜙 𝐶 𝑡
𝜂= ቤ +
𝑔 𝜕𝑡 𝑧=0 𝑔
𝐻
𝜂 = cos 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝜔𝑡
2
We have
Where the constant H represents the wave height,
𝐺𝜔 𝐶 𝑡 and
𝜂= cos 𝑘𝑥 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) cos 𝜔𝑡 ቤ +
𝑔 𝑧=0
𝑔
𝐻𝑔
𝐺=
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
 Linear waves
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)
𝜙= cos 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜔𝑡 After linearization:
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ

It is now prescribed in terms of 𝐻, 𝜔, ℎ and 𝑘. 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂

− ቤ =
𝜕𝑧 𝑧=0 𝜕𝑡
(4) Kinematic free surface boundary condition
Substitute into the potential and the surface
𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂 elevation:
− = − , 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 𝜂 𝑥, 𝑡
𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑡 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑥
𝐻 𝑔𝑘 sinh 𝑘 ℎ + 𝑧
Use the same Taylor expansion for this B.C. − cos 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜔𝑡 ቤ
2 𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ 𝑧=0
𝐻
𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂 = − 𝜔 cos 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜔𝑡
− − + 2
𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑡 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑥 𝑧=𝜂
𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂 𝜕 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂 or
= − − + +𝜂 − − + +⋯ 𝜔2 = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘ℎ
𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑡 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑥 𝑧=0
𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑡 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑥 𝑧=0
=0
Dispersion relation
 Linear waves
𝜔2 = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘ℎ
In deep water, tanh 𝑘ℎ ≈ 1
2
2𝜋 2𝜋
=𝑔 tanh 𝑘ℎ 𝑔𝑇 2
𝑇 𝐿 𝐿0 =
2𝜋
The wave speed (phase velocity) 𝐿 𝐿0
𝑐= = tanh 𝑘ℎ
2 𝑇 𝑇
𝜔 𝑔
𝑐2 = = tanh 𝑘ℎ
𝑘 𝑘 Wave period does not change with depth,
so when waves enter shallow water, they
Wavelength: slow down.

𝑔 2 2𝜋ℎ
𝐿= 𝑇 tanh
2𝜋 𝐿
 Linear waves
𝜔2 = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘ℎ

2
2𝜋 2𝜋
=𝑔 tanh 𝑘ℎ
𝑇 𝐿

The wave speed (phase velocity)

𝜔 2 𝑔
𝑐2 = = tanh 𝑘ℎ
𝑘 𝑘

Wavelength:

𝑔 2 2𝜋ℎ
𝐿= 𝑇 tanh
2𝜋 𝐿
 Linear waves
Two-dimensional periodic linear water wave problem
Combining the kinematic and dynamics free
Governing equation: surface boundary conditions:

∇2 𝜙 = 0
𝜕 2𝜙 𝜕𝜙
Boundary conditions: 2 + 𝑔 = 0, 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 0
𝜕𝑡 𝜕𝑧

𝜕𝜙
− =0 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = −ℎ Considering harmonic oscillation with frequency 𝜔
𝜕𝑧

𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂 𝜕𝜙
− = , 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 0 −𝜔2𝜙 + 𝑔 = 0, 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 0
𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑡 𝜕𝑧

𝜕𝜙
− + 𝑔𝜂 = 0 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 0
𝜕𝑡
𝜔2 = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘ℎ
Standing waves
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)
𝜙= cos 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜔𝑡
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
𝐻
𝜂(𝑥, 𝑡) = cos 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝜔𝑡
2

𝜔2 = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘ℎ