AFAR September 2018

London
Buenos Aires
Jaipur
Singapore
Tokyo
San Francisco
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Travel means dreaming of what comes next.
Milestones are set beside the road not to commemorate how far you’ve come, but to mark the distance to
the destination ahead. At Preferred Hotels & Resorts, we are proud to celebrate five decades of travel and
hospitality. It’s a landmark that comes amid great change in how, where, and why we travel. Thank you for
taking this journey with us.
18_236
©Preferred Hotels & Resorts
P R E F E R R E D H O T E L S . C O M
THE K A H AL A HOTEL & R ESORT NH COLLECTION SA NCTUARY CA MELBACK HOTEL NEW OTA NI TOK YO,
Honolulu, Hawaii, USA BUENOS AIR ES JOUSTEN MOUNTAIN R ESORT & SPA “E XECU TI V E HOUSE ZEN”
Buenos Aires, Argentina Scottsdale, Arizona, USA Tokyo, Japan
SAGA MOR E PENDRY BALTIMOR E ONE FAR R ER HOTEL & SPA CONDADO VA NDER BILT HOTEL HOTEL R EGINA LOU V R E
Baltimore, Maryland, USA Singapore San Juan, Puerto Rico Paris, France
SH A HPUR A HOUSE OJAI VALLEY INN HOTEL UNIQUE THE HER MITAGE HOTEL
Jaipur, India Ojai, California, USA São Paulo, Brazil Nashville, Tennessee, USA
HOTEL MOUSAI THE FR A NK LIN HOTEL – BOSTON H AR BOR HOTEL M AR IGOT BAY
Puerto Vallarta, Mexico STAR HOTELS COLLEZIONE Boston, Massachusetts, USA R ESORT A ND M AR INA
London, England, UK Marigot Bay, Saint Lucia
contents
S e p te m b e r/O c tob e r 20 1 8
80
BUENAS NOCHES,
BUENOS AIRES
Alone and unplugged,
Mark Byrne found the
best way to understand
Argentina’s capital
was to order a drink.
92
LONDON CRAFTING
Go behind the
scenes with the local
makers reviving the
city’s inventive soul.
by Lisa Abend
DESTINATION INDEX
ALABAMA 39
ARGENTINA 80
AUSTRALIA 71
BRAZIL 76
CALIFORNIA 29, 32, 44, 76
CHINA 106
COLORADO 36
CUBA 108
DUBAI 12
ENGLAND 71, 92
FLORIDA 36, 44
FRANCE 74, 109
GEORGIA 32, 74
HONG KONG 12
ILLINOIS 28, 74
INDIA 57
IRAN 106
ITALY 12, 72
JAPAN 63, 72, 76, 110
MARYLAND 29
MEXICO 71
MICHIGAN 28, 74
MINNESOTA 32, 36
NEVADA 112
NEW YORK CITY 12, 28,
44, 74, 112
NORTH CAROLINA 36
PENNSYLVANIA 36, 74
PERU 12, 116
PUERTO RICO 24
SINGAPORE 51, 72
UTAH 44
VERMONT 32
VIRGINIA 32
WASHINGTON 32
6 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 PHOTOGRAPH BY DINA LITOVSKY

1979.
Your alma mater put
you in a position to
succeed. Which also
put you in a position
to graciously return
the favor in
2018.
You’ve always given back. From donating time when you had more to give than money, to writing checks as your financial
ability grew. Now you’re ready to make a more lasting impact. A Raymond James financial advisor can help align your
charitable goals with a tax and estate planning strategy, so your gits can keep giving for generations. LIFE WELL PLANNED.
W E A LT H M A N A G E M E N T | BANKING | C A P I TA L M A R K E TS
LIFEW ELLP LAN N ED .CO M
©2018 Raymond James & Associates, Inc., member New ttYork Stock Exchange/SIPC. | Raymond James Financial Services, Inc., member FINRA/SIPC. Raymond James Bank,
member FDIC. Raymond James ® and LIFE WELL PLANNED ® are registered trademarks of Raymond James Financial, Inc. Investment products are: not deposits, not FDIC/
NCUA insured, not insured by any government agency, not bank guaranteed, subject to risk and may lose value.
contents
104
UR B A N EXP O S U R E
Since 1947, Magnum’s photographers have
shaped the way we see cities.
by Ashlea Halpern
DAVID ALAN HARVEY/MAGNUM PHOTOS
ON THE COVER
London has a rich
history of crafts-
manship. On page 92,
meet the modern
artisans fueling its
creative spirit.
Photograph by Harry
Mitchell
8 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

YOUR BELGIAN GETAWAY.
With the Belgium Stop Over
of Brussels Airlines, enjoy:
A free pit stop: from 1 to 5 days
Free activities in 2 Belgian cities
brusselsairlines.com
contents
Special
44 Section
69
FRESH AIR
When you discover
a city’s green spaces—
its secret gardens and
rooftop parks—you
will discover a place
you never knew.
14
FOUNDER’S NOTE
16
CONTRIBUTORS
18
FROM THE EDITOR
116
JUST BACK FROM
The joys of visiting
(and revisiting) Peru.
32 39 63
Wander CANNED GOODS TO FACE OUR PAST Connect SPIN THE GLOBE
The best tasting— The United States’ Good things come
24 and best packaged— most important new 51 to those who wait
FROM THE GROUND craft beers from monument is now FEAST . . . in a line in Tokyo.
UP around the country. open in Alabama. Singapore serves
Puerto Rico is bounc- up its history, one
ing back, thanks in 34 44 bowl of noodles at
part to its chefs and BUCKLE UP CLOSE a time.
farmers. Commemorate any ENCOUNTERS
trip with a travel- From sea to shining 57
27 friendly accessory sea, here are four RESIDENT
AMERICAN BEAUTY you can wear home. new ways to play in A local’s guide to
Where to stay now in some of America’s Jaipur’s royal past—
JOSON/GALLERY STOCK
Chicago, New York, 36 most beloved and its dynamic

and four other great FOOD HALL CRAWL national parks. future.
U.S. cities. Cities from Raleigh,
NC, to Denver, CO,
embrace the Food
Court 2.0.

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Our culinary secret? Chefs who love

coming to work in the morning.
Of course we only source the finest ingredients. But the real recipe for creating
incredible culinary experiences is making sure our kitchens inspire and nurture the world’s
best talents—like Chef Giancarlo Perbellini at the JW Marriott® Venice Resort & Spa.
That’s The JW Treatment.®

founder’s note
How to Mark a Milestone
RECENTLY CELEBRATED experiences. And if I needed a Gray & Co.) and to a Tuscan I can do that while exploring the
I my 60th birthday with a

trip to Ireland and Italy,
and, as one does on mile-
stone occasions, I found
myself relecting on my life and
on how much I have to be thankful
for. I’m so fortunate to be doing
reminder of why that matters,
all I had to do was look around
me. I was traveling with ive good
friends to Kenmare, Ireland, home
of my ancestors, and Cortona, Italy,
where one of my friends recently
purchased a home.
vineyard (thanks, DuVine Cycling).
We took a boat out on Kenmare
Bay, accompanied by Irish musi-
cians. We cooked steaks in a 1,000-
degree oven on the roof of a 400-
year-old house and didn’t burn the
place down. These are the kinds
world, that’s even better. I hope
that we at AFAR inspire you to get
out and create more of your own
cherished memories . Whether
you’re in your own backyard or in
some far-off land, every day is a
gift, and I’ve learned to be grateful
something I love and believe in: We had a ball. We biked up to of beautiful moments that often for every one I have.
At AFAR, we help inspire, guide, Healy Pass in Ireland (a trip orga- come with travel.
and enable people to have deeper, nized by AFAR Travel Advisory I always appreciate spending —GREG SULLIVAN
richer, and more fulilling travel Council member Cari Gray, of time with those I love, and when Cofounder & CEO
A sunset
view from Piazza
Garibaldi in Cortona,
LAUREN GUILFORD
Italy, takes in the hills

that mark the border
between Tuscany
and Umbria.

Higgins built the boat
– 1941 – 1945
to win The War.

With the United States on boats as well as the landing
the cusp of WWII, the military craft which allowed troops
needed a better way to land to storm over an open beach.
troops on enemy shores. President Eisenhower
Andrew Higgins, a New declared Andrew Higgins
Orleans shipbuilder with a “the man who won the war
history of helping trappers, for us.” Today, the National
oil-drillers, and bootleggers WWII Museum stands in
navigate shallow waterways New Orleans as a testament
had just the thing. Over a to this accomplishment.
four-year-period, Higgins
Industries built 20,094 boats Visit New Orleans
for the Allied war effort, the and start your story with
most notable being the PT #OneTimeInNOLA.
OneTimeInNOLA.com
contributors
Sara Hylton Kathleen Squires Harry Mitchell Helen Rosner

Photographer Writer Photographer Writer
The Real Jaipur From the Ground Up London Crafting Waiting Game
p.57 p.24 p.92 p.63
Get personal: “My background Tasty tales: “You find out about Show your hand: “As a Small world: “One day, I posted
is in documentary work, and I so much through eating: the photographer, I want to give to Instagram from the Tsukiji
really try to understand who I’m people, the culture, the economy. the reader a sense of place fish market and got a message
photographing. While shooting Food can tell so many stories; and communicate details, like from someone I hadn’t seen in
[a local’s guide to] Jaipur, I sat that’s why I never get tired of an artisan’s hands at work— 15 years that she was a block
down and spoke with many writing about it.” Local flavor: sometimes they’re rough and away. It was magical that halfway
of the artists and shop owners.” “My husband is Puerto Rican, so leathery, other times they’re around the globe, I could hang
Beginning to see: “Back when we visit the island often. When I nimble.” A tourist in his own city: out with someone I knew.” Positive
I didn’t even know what a first went 30 years ago, menus “I like photographing in London negatives: “I mostly used a film
shutter speed was, I traveled to had a lot of canned and imported because it’s a challenge to get camera to document my trip
ILLUSTRATIONS BY SAM KERR
Vrindavan, India’s city of widows. vegetables. Now there’s so much something new from the place to Japan, which made me look
This community of women good local food. Farmers are I’ve lived my entire life. The globe closely at the world. I wasn’t
living on the outskirts of society looking at other ways to manage workshop we feature in the story hunting for social media–friendly
fascinated me, and I learned how crops, like vertical gardens. It’s is 10 minutes from my studio, tableaux, but paying attention
to take pictures by spending time exciting to see people forging and I had no idea it existed until to shapes and shadows. I think
with them.” Focus with her: on ahead with hope.” Follow along: now.” Explore his perspective: I’ll keep doing that.” Observe
Instagram at @sarahyltonphoto on Instagram @ksquiresnyc on Instagram at @harrymitchell with her: on Twitter @hels
16 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 PHOTOGRAPHS BY HARRY MITCHELL

DISCOVER MORE :
C A P PA D O C I A
WITH THE AIRLINE THAT FLIES TO
MORE COUNTRIES THAN ANY OTHER
TURKEY
from the editor
everyone he knew belonged to one of these

two groups. Now, as the train barreled through
the borough, people speaking different lan-
guages got on at every stop. When we reached
Corona, we ate tacos in a little Mexican café,
wandered through an Ecuadorian enclave,
then spent the afternoon touring Armstrong’s
former home, listening to the unmistakable
sound of the entertainer’s voice and trumpet.
We meandered back to the subway to return
to Manhattan, and once again Dad marveled
at the veritable United Nations around us. He
What a talked about my generation being more open,
less prejudiced, and how he believed that when
Wonderful people from all over the world lived together
in tight quarters, the United States would move
World closer toward its melting pot promise.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: © JOEL STERNFELD: ROOSEVELT DELI GROCERY, 95TH STREET AND ROOSEVELT AVENUE, JACKSON HEIGHTS,
Dad died this past April, and as I’ve moved
QUEENS, JUNE 2004; MARCAUX/GETTY IMAGES; BETTMANN/GETTY IMAGES; JORGE GARCIA; GAIL ALBERT HALABAN/GALLERY STOCK
N THE SUMMER of 2004, my dad, through the last few foggy months of grief, I’ve
I who worked as a magazine editor (no,

the apple didn’t fall far from the tree),
was temporarily transferred from
Los Angeles to New York. At the time,
I was a broke twentysomething a few years
into my own career in Manhattan. Dad stayed
in a corporate apartment across town from
sifted through nearly four decades of memories.
Our day in Queens sticks with me. I remember
the feeling of being caught up in the magnetic
power of one of the world’s great cities, in the
dynamism that comes from a constant inlux of
new residents and new ideas. And I remember
my dad, illed with hope.
A day in Queens
should include a
visit to jazz man
Louis Armstrong’s
former home, now
a museum.
my oice, and we spent much of the summer

together. Dad was born in Brooklyn and grew —JULIA COSGROVE
up in Queens, so this New York stint was a Editor in Chief
homecoming of sorts, and we celebrated with
indulgent steakhouse meals, trips to the roof
deck of the Met, and a blur of Broadway shows.
One humid Saturday morning, I sug-
gested we go farther aield and visit the Louis
Armstrong House Museum in Queens. Dad
was a huge fan of the celebrated jazz musician.
The house, located in the Corona neighbor-
hood, was where Armstrong lived with his
wife, Lucille, from 1943 until his death in 1971,
and it has been preserved in their honor.
As we waited on the subway platform in
Times Square for the 7 train to take us to the
other side of the East River, Dad commented
on how diverse the crowd was. When he
was a kid, his neighborhood in Queens was
predominantly Irish and Italian. Almost

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YES, WE CAN
To know all the flavors of a
city, you have to try its local beer.
On page 32, discover six
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creativity of their hometowns
through ales and IPAs as snazzy
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STYLING BY MICHELLE MAGUIRE
PHOTOGRAPH BY KELSEY MCCLELLAN SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 AFAR 23

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José Enrique Montes

has his hands full
at his unmistakably
pink restaurant.
FROM THE
GROUND UP
After two hurricanes
devastated the island,
Puerto Rico is developing
a new agricultural
infrastructure, and chefs
are leading the charge.
by Kathleen Squires
Most diners probably don’t

realize it, but when they order the
curried eggplant at Verde Mesa
restaurant in San Juan, they’re
helping build a more sustainable he serves in a Moroccan-style
Puerto Rico. Every meal of locally stew, or chayote, a type of gourd,
grown ingredients supports sliced into thin ribbons and
farmers rebounding from Irma dressed with mango, lemon, and
and Maria, the hurricanes that cilantro. Sixty-five percent of his Salads at
ravaged the island in 2017. ingredients come from Puerto Verde Mesa take
Before the storms, Puerto Rico Rico. “The hurricane taught me advantage of
seasonal produce
imported about 85 percent of how important it is to take advan- grown on the
its food. Agriculture had declined tage of what you have in front of island.
steadily after World War II, as you,” Hernández says.
government policies encouraged Montes, meanwhile, is return-
industrialization. Then, just as ing to his roots—tubers, that is.
farming was beginning to stage a “Roots like yuca are indigenous
comeback, the hurricanes hit. The to the island. [Because] they grow
DEEPI AHLUWALIA (2), MICHAEL TUREK (2), DIANNE PULLIZA, JOE MIRAGLIOTTA
storms not only destroyed crops, underground, they did not suffer
but they also made it harder for the damage that some of our
INSET PHOTOS FROM TOP LEFT: FLASH PARKER, MEREDITH ANDREWS,

imported food to reach the island other staples, like plantains, did,”
for distribution. It was clear to two he explains. Montes’s menu
San Juan chefs—Verde Mesa’s includes locally raised pork as
Gabriel Hernández, a 2018 James well as such native fruits as cheri-
Beard Award semifinalist, and moya. His goal: Build a menu
José Enrique Montes, a five-time that is at least 75 percent local.
James Beard Award nominee and Travelers can help. Farm stays
the owner of the restaurant José organized by Visit Rico offer
Enrique—that Puerto Rico needed financial assistance to growers
to become more self-sufficient. and volunteer opportunities
They committed themselves to to guests. Visitors can tour and help get island agriculture back
getting the island’s farmers back eat at farms such as Frutos del on its feet is by patronizing the
on track. Guacabo and shop at farmers’ growing number of locavore res-
On Verde Mesa’s menu, markets such as Mercado Agrícola taurants—in San Juan and other
Hernández showcases whatever Natural in San Juan and Mercado cities—that are revitalizing the
ingredients are most readily Agroecológico in Rincón. But the dining scene with their culinary
available, whether it’s beef, which easiest and most delicious way to innovations.
24 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 PHOTOGRAPH BY KELSEY MCCLELLAN

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Legendary designer
Renzo Mongiardino inspired
the pistachio-green
color scheme in the lobby
of Detroit’s Siren Hotel.
AMERICAN
BEAUTY
These new hotels
are the ideal bases
for exploring six
exciting U.S. cities.
COURTESY OF CHRISTIAN HARDER
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 AFAR 27

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3. St. Jane Chicago

Chicago
The St. Jane is named after Jane
Addams, the Nobel Peace Prize
winner who pioneered social
reform in Chicago at the turn of
the 20th century. A biography
of Addams sits on a nightstand
in every one of the hotel’s 365
guest rooms, and the owners—
both female—donate a percent-
age of their profits to the Jackson
Chance Foundation, whose
1. The Siren Hotel mission is to enrich the lives of
Detroit babies in the neonatal intensive
The latest sign of downtown care unit at Ann & Robert H.
Detroit’s renaissance? The Siren Lurie Children’s Hospital. Beyond
Hotel, which is giving new life feeling good about where your
to the 1926 Wurlitzer Building, dollars are going, there are plenty
abandoned since the 1980s. of other reasons to stay at the
The 106 guest rooms feature St. Jane: It’s located in the Carbide
colorful terrazzo showers and & Carbon Building, a 1929 art
custom-made blankets from deco landmark shaped like a
Maine Heritage Weavers. The champagne bottle; guest rooms
lobby channels Detroit’s early 2. The Assemblage are outfitted with large windows
20th-century glory days with vel- New York City and marble countertops; and
vet sofas, ornate Italian mirrors, The wake-up call takes on a new it’s just five blocks from the city’s
and a Murano glass chandelier. meaning at the Assemblage Millennium Park. From $269.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF CHRISTIAN HARDER, COURTESY OF ST. JANE, COURTESY OF MIKIKO KIKUYAMA
At the Candy Bar, locals gather Hotel in New York City’s Financial stjanehotel.com —L.I.
on bubblegum-pink banquettes District. Part hotel, part coworking
beneath a giant disco ball to space, the Assemblage tries to
sip craft cocktails. Try the New help its guests have, shall we say,
Gimlet, made with gin infused more profound awakenings.
with kaffir lime. Reservations are You can book a session with the
required for the on-site restaurant on-site life coach, join a guided
Albena, an eight-seat tasting afternoon meditation, or sip a
counter where chef Garrett Lipar ginkgo-infused concoction from
pays homage to Great Lakes the juice bar. The 79 guest rooms,
ingredients. designed by the New York–based
From $139. thesirenhotel.com firm Meyer Davis, have kitchen-
—LAURA ITZKOWITZ ettes and ample seating areas.
The vibe of the public spaces
feels equally cozy: The greenery-
filled Plant Café, designed with
blond oak wood and colorful
textiles from Peru, serves a family-
style, Ayurveda-inspired spread
for lunch, and guests bus their
own tables.
From $289. theassemblage.com
—JENNIFER FLOWERS

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6. Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills

Los Angeles
In a city known for glamour, the
new Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills
has upped the ante. French interior
designer Pierre-Yves Rochon hung
5. Proper custom-made crystal chandeliers
San Francisco in the ballroom and decorated
A revamped down-and-out the guest rooms with hand-blown
hotel has got the Mid-Market Murano glass. All 170 rooms
neighborhood’s blood pumping and suites have floor-to-ceiling
again, thanks to the vision of windows and private balconies.
designer Kelly Wearstler. When The rooftop, with its saltwater
guests step inside the seven- pool, affords unparalleled views
story Flatiron Building, they’re of Beverly Hills; come nighttime,
greeted by Wearstler’s signature the bar serves ginger margaritas
pattern-on-pattern-on-pattern alongside small bites. French
aesthetic. Salon-style seating American chef Jean-Georges
areas, furnished with reuphol- Vongerichten opened his first Los
stered vintage chairs and settees Angeles restaurant here; try his
and hung with clusters of paint- avocado carpaccio pizza at lunch.
ings, fill the ground floor lobby. To go all in on the Beverly Hills
The hotel’s main restaurant, lifestyle, reserve an Aston Martin
Villon, is painted cerulean blue to cruise around town and get
and overseen by chef Mikey a Rejuvenating Platinum Facial
Adams, whose fine dining twist in Southern California’s only La
on comfort food includes Prairie Spa. From $815.
okonomiyaki with prawn kimchi waldorfastoriabeverlyhills.com
and bonito. On the rooftop you’ll —KATHRYN ROMEYN
find Charmaine’s, already one
of the most popular bars in town,
aglow with fire pits. The views
of Market Street stretch all the
way down to the bay.
From $495. properhotel.com
—ERIN FEHER
4. Sagamore Pendry Baltimore

Baltimore
Built in 1914, Baltimore’s Recre-
ation Pier has played many key
roles for the city: immigration hall,
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF PROPER HOSPITALITY, AMANDA FRIEDMAN,
ferry terminal, and now, luxury

hotel. The Sagamore Pendry Hotel
offers a level of hospitality that
was lacking in the cobblestoned
Fells Point area. Nautical themes
inform Patrick Sutton’s interior
design for the 128 guest rooms,
two of which evoke a ship captain’s
berth. The Cannon Room features
framed antique life preservers
COURTESY OF SAGAMORE PENDRY BALTIMORE
and two cannons found under

water during the pier’s restoration.
James Beard Award–winning
chef Andrew Carmellini created
the Italian-inspired menus at the
Rec Pier Chop House and the
Cannon Room whiskey bar. If a
burger or fish tacos are more to
your liking, order them by the
harbor-facing pool. From $350.
pendryhotels.com —L.I.

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32 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 PHOTOGRAPH BY KELSEY MCCLELLAN

SOUTHLANDS
IF YO U’ RE UN S URE W HE RE T HE T RAIL LEAD S,
YOU’ RE ON T HE RI G HT PATH.
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PHOTOGRAPH BY KELSEY MCCLELLAN

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Thinking it was
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West Palm Beach, ket, restaurateur
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Twelve food and turned an old
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF ZEPPELIN STATION, COURTESY OF RALEIGH RAW,
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TO FACE OUR PAST

Bryan Stevenson talks about
opening the National Memorial to
Peace and Justice in Montgomery,
Alabama, and why every American
needs to experience it now.
by Christine Ajudua
Bryan
Stevenson works
to change the way
Americans think
about slavery and
its legacy.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: AUDRA MELTON (2), LYNSEY WEATHERSPOON (2)

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Earlier this year, Montgomery, Alabama, saw

the opening of the National Memorial to
Peace and Justice, the first public memorial
dedicated to victims of slavery and racial
terror in the United States. At the center of
the six-acre site you’ll find 800 six-foot-tall
rusted-steel monuments—one for every U.S.
county where a lynching took place from
1877 through 1950. Each is engraved with the
names of the deceased, some “Unknown.”
As you descend into the space, the steel col-
umns—suspended higher and higher above
your head—evoke hanging bodies. Elsewhere
on the memorial grounds, duplicate pillars
stand. The hope is that each county with a
history of lynching will claim its column and
find an appropriate site to display it. Steel monuments
A short walk from the new memorial, the to lynching victims
Legacy Museum, located in a former ware- hang at the National
Memorial to Peace
house where slaves were imprisoned, also and Justice.
recently opened to the public. Its immersive
exhibits lead visitors through the history of
racial injustice in the United States, from
slavery to the current era of mass incarcera-
tion. The memorial and museum, which have
already drawn thousands of visitors, are the
work of the Equal Justice Initiative (eji.org),
founded in 1989 by Bryan Stevenson. The
lawyer, human rights activist, MacArthur
Fellow, and author of the best-selling book
Just Mercy began planning the project in
2010. We talked to him about the power of What inspired you to turn it all into a
public monuments and the impact he hopes memorial and museum?
the memorial and museum will have. These markers, however powerful, were fairly
isolated. You had to know where they were.
You toiled for years to make the memorial You had to find them. I began to recognize
and museum a reality. What drove you? that a museum and a memorial would create
Well, I started my education in a “colored a place that was more visible and more ac-
school” in Milton, Delaware. I remember when ceptable. I had seen the Apartheid Museum
lawyers came into our community and made [in Johannesburg, South Africa], the Kigali
them open up the public school to black kids. Genocide Memorial in Rwanda, and the
It took the courts to force the community to I imagine that was especially pronounced in Holocaust Memorial [in Berlin, Germany]. The
do something it would otherwise not do. That Montgomery. It’s known as both the “Cradle power of those spaces—each of which became
motivated me to become a lawyer. And for the of the Confederacy” and the birthplace of sort of a magnet for everyone who visited
last 30 years, we in the Equal Justice Initiative the civil rights movement. that city—was very influential. I realized that
have been working in the courts to protect the When I moved to the city in the ’80s, there we didn’t have a cultural place in America
rights of vulnerable people, disfavored people, were 59 markers and monuments to the that presents the history of racial inequality
and people who are in jails and prisons. I’m Confederacy, and there wasn’t a single sign in such a way that it motivates people to say,
very proud of that work. that had the word slave or slavery. We had “Never again.”
But about 10 years ago I began to recog- accommodated this narrative that celebrates
nize that the legal framework wasn’t sufficient the era of enslavement, that romanticizes its What has been the public reception to the
to accomplish the kinds of justice that I want architects and defenders. That made it clearer memorial and museum?
to see, most acutely in the area of race. Our to me that we had to do some work. When you walk through the National Memorial,
courts were comfortable with a level of racial So in 2013, we decided to put up the first you first encounter this sculpture by Kwame
bias and discrimination and inequality that I markers in Montgomery to assert the legacy Akoto-Bamfo called Nkyinkyim. It’s a slavery
found hard to accept. of slavery in that community. There was tre- sculpture. I’ve been struck by how many
It became clear to me that there was this mendous resistance. From there, we wanted people have said things like, “You know, I’ve
narrative of racial difference that we’ve all just to replicate that process of creating markers lived my whole life in this country, but I’ve
accepted. at lynching sites. never seen a sculpture in America that depicts

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the brutality of slavery and tries to express
the inhumanity of it while giving voice to the
dignity of those who are enslaved.” We name A More Complete American History
previously unnamed victims of racial-terror
lynching, and visitors say, “I didn’t know.” The The National Memorial to Peace and Justice and the Legacy Museum
impact on people’s knowledge and under- are in Montgomery, Alabama. Bryan Stevenson also recommends travelers
standing has been exciting for me to see. visit these other museums around the country.
The museum gets the same sort of reactions.
We’ve all heard spirituals—usually sung in 1. Banneker- 2. Birmingham 3. Mississippi Civil 4. National
very safe, ornate, comfortable places—but Douglass Museum Civil Rights Rights Museum Underground
when you hear a spiritual like “Lord, How This year, Maryland’s Institute The museum Railroad Freedom
Come Me Here” being sung by a woman in official museum This Smithsonian- opened last year Center
chains in a slave pen, it has a very different of African American affiliated center in Jackson and In Cincinnati, near
impact, a different resonance. heritage, located in Birmingham, focuses on the the banks of the
in Annapolis, Alabama, high- period from 1945 to Ohio River—that
Have you noticed a difference in how celebrates the lights the city’s 1976. “When a space barrier between
international visitors take it all in? bicentennial of the most significant unashamedly tells South and North—
International visitors have a conception birth of native son civil rights events. the narrative of the center presents
of America that doesn’t emphasize and Frederick Douglass, Inside, visitors will African Americans the journey of slaves
illuminate the parts of American history that the former slave see the cell door who resisted seg- on their way to free-
are difficult. And because we don’t talk about turned social behind which Dr. regation because dom. As Stevenson
it, it’s even harder for international visitors activist and the Martin Luther King things were so says, “It tells an
to appreciate that we are a nation haunted first black citizen Jr. wrote his “Letter brutal, it’s important important part of
by slavery, terrorism, and segregation. [The to become a high- from Birmingham for that to be recog- American history,
memorial and museum] allow them to under- ranking U.S. gov- Jail.” An exhibit by nized,” Stevenson which is the effort
stand some of the conflicts and tensions they ernment official. the Alabama pho- says. “It’s brand- of resistance and
read about—for example, after an unarmed Film screenings, tographer Chester new, and it has that rebellion that
black person is shot by the police. lectures, and other Higgins Jr., Foot kind of unvarnished so many African
events are taking Soldiers: Profiles of truth, which I think Americans com-
How do you see this project fitting into the place statewide. Courage Then and is critical for people mitted themselves
African American narrative, perhaps even bdmuseum Now, runs through to understand.” to advancing.”
altering the black experience in the United .maryland.gov November. bcri.org mcrm.mdah.ms.gov freedomcenter.org
States today?
You know, after Emancipation it wasn’t safe to
talk about the hardships of slavery. During the
era of racial terror [1877–1950], it wasn’t safe
to talk about lynching. It wasn’t safe to talk we can actually move toward repair. I think Do you think a project like this can ever
about the humiliation of segregation. We’ve that there’s a lot that we can do to create a right such grievous wrongs?
made it very difficult to talk about race and new cultural landscape. We’ve asked people I do. I look at places like Rwanda, that have
racial inequality in this country. It’s almost who visit the memorial who live in communi- suffered horrific violence and genocide. There
considered impolite, disruptive. So I’m hoping ties where racial-terror lynchings took place to are lots of people in prison who were perpe-
that these sites lift the burden that is cre- begin conversations where they can ultimately trators of the genocide, but there’s a plan to
ated by this forced silence about the African claim their monument and bring it back to ultimately have those people released. There
American experience. I hope African American their community. That has real potential to is a willingness to recover, to restore.
travelers find some liberation in seeing this move our nation forward. And when I think about the fact that they’re
history told in a direct and honest way. But dealing with a horrific era of violence that
ultimately, this is American history—it’s for all happened in my lifetime and have made
Americans to wrestle with this legacy. that kind of progress, then I have to believe
that our nation, after 150 years, is finally
What does it mean to you that these sites ready to do the kind of work that can lead
opened during the Trump administration? to enormous progress. It won’t happen over-
I’d like to think a lot of what we’re seeing in night, but I do think it’s possible to create a
OPPOSITE PAGE: WILLIAM ABRANOWICZ / ART+COMMERCE.
this moment is temporary. But to the extent different future.

THIS PAGE: COURTESY OF EQUAL JUSTICE INITIATIVE
that people have tried to equivocate on the

shamefulness of white supremacy and racially
motivated violence, it’s important that there
be places to rebut that and to challenge us to
not see anything acceptable about that legacy
and history. I do think that these sites are
particularly urgent now.
What do you want people to not only think

about, but do after visiting?
We want them to think about this history that
haunts us and the truth we need to tell, but
to understand that if we accept that truth,
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EXPLORING
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LESSER-KNOWN
PORTS
SILVERSEA’S NINE SHIPS
have long been known for
combining an unparalleled
level of luxury with an exclusive
intimacy thanks to their small
size. With capacity for fewer than
600 guests on even their largest
one, the ships of Silversea’s
fleet can travel through narrow
waterways and stop at ports of
call that are inaccessible to larger
vessels. In the Caribbean, this
means that Silversea itineraries
go to islands where there are
no megaresorts, and the laid-
back island atmosphere you are
seeking is easy to find. Here’s
a look at some of the ports that
Silversea cruises visit—ones that
you won’t ever get to see on other
Caribbean cruises
1 2
THE GEMS OF
1
THE BVI
The 50-plus islands and cays of
the British Virgin Islands are a
favorite destination of yachters,
who make their way through the
turquoise waters to beachfront
bars and pristine reefs. The small
harbors here are part of the appeal,
but they also make the islands
largely inaccessible to cruise ships.
Silversea, however, stops at three
ports in the archipelago: Road
Town on Tortola, Jost Van Dyke,
and Spanish Town on Virgin Gorda
(1, 2). At Jost Van Dyke, follow an
afternoon exploring its rugged
landscape with a Painkiller (3) at
the Soggy Dollar, the bar where
the classic cocktail was reputedly
invented. On Virgin Gorda you can
swim at the iconic landmark of the
British Virgin Islands, the Baths (4),
with its pools sheltered by granite
boulders that line the island’s coast.
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3
APPEALING
ALTERNATIVES
It’s not only the more remote
5 islands that you can visit with
Silversea, but also the smaller
and less-visited ports of the
larger islands. In the Dominican
4 Republic (6), for example, while
other lines stop at the capital,
Santo Domingo, or the cruise
facility at Amber Cove, guests
with Silversea call at Samaná, in
the remote northeast coast of the
country overlooking Samaná Bay.
The area is better known as a place
to spot humpback whales than as
a port of call for cruises, and you
can choose between a stroll along
2 the waterfront Malecón, lined with

restaurants and bars, or exploring
the mangrove forests of the nearby
Haitises National Park.
FRENCH Whatever your Caribbean fantasy

looks like—a palm-fringed beach, a
FLAVORS sleepy harbor, turquoise waters, or
emerald hills—Silversea’s cruises
The French territories of
can take you there, with itineraries
Guadeloupe and Martinique
that call at the most remote and
provide a different take on the
distinct ports.
Caribbean, where restaurants serve
not only rum punches but also
Learn more, and then plan your
the best wines from the mother
escape, at cruiseafar.com/
country, as well as classic French
caribbean.
dishes—though typically given
tropical twists. The town of Basse-
Terre is the gateway to the western
half of Guadeloupe, famous for its
enormous national park with lush 6
rain forests and plunging waterfalls.
Les Anses-d’Arlet on Martinique is
a convenient base from which to
explore both Les Trois-Îlets, with its
charming small resorts and seaside
restaurants, and Fort-de-France (5),
the island’s historic capital. One of
the most magical destinations in
the Caribbean, where Silversea calls
3 but few other lines do, is the tiny
archipelago of Les Saintes, off the
southern coast of Guadeloupe. On
this group of postage-stamp-size
islands, cars are rare and the only
town has just over 3,000 residents.
Whether you want to climb to the
19th-century fort at the highest
point on Terre-de-Haut or sip rosé
at a café overlooking that island’s
harbor, you are sure to enjoy your
day in this corner of the Caribbean
that feels untouched by time.
wander
CLOSE ENCOUNTERS
There’s always a reason to visit our national parks,
but these four destinations, all within easy reach of big cities,
now offer more ways to experience their nature and history.
by Kelly Bastone
HEA D TO
2. Statue of
Liberty National
Monument
Start from: Manhattan
(15-30 minutes by ferry)
What’s there: The Great
Hall of Ellis Island National
HEAD TO Museum of Immigration,
where more than 12 million
1. Arches National Park immigrants entered the
Start from: Salt Lake City (4 hours by car) or Denver (5.5 hours by car) United States between
What’s there: Red rock spires and more than 2,000 sandstone arches 1892 and 1954
Why now: Arches is one of three area parks that joined forces for the first Why now: A new, more
time this summer with the Utah Dark Skies Astronomy Outreach program interactive audio tour
to co-host monthly star parties. In the evening, stargazers meet at the visitor provided by Acoustiguide:
center for a talk of 30 to 40 minutes followed by constellation spotting Sit on the benches where
and opportunities to peer through telescopes at distant star clusters. Also immigrants awaited their
on display: the Milky Way galaxy, which 80 percent of North Americans entry interviews and hear
can’t see at home due to light pollution. inspectors’ questions. Trav-
elers also learn about the
material things immigrants
carried with them. Tours are
available in 13 languages,
with videos for American
Sign Language.
HEAD TO
3. Death Valley
National Park
Start from: Las Vegas
(2 hours by car) or Los
Angeles (4 hours by car)
What’s there: Vast dunes,
twisting slot canyons, and
vistas from the 11,049-foot
H EAD T O
Telescope Peak
Why now: A multimillion- 4. Biscayne National Park
dollar renovation is morph- Start from: Miami (1.5 hours by car)
ing the former Furnace What’s there: Mangrove islands, rare palm trees, and tropical reefs in a
Creek Resort into the Oasis park that’s 95 percent water
at Death Valley, where 22 Why now: The Biscayne National Park Institute recently launched guided
new casitas will open this eco-adventures that educate park visitors. Delve into local ecology during
fall to join the 66-room inn a trip to remote Elliott Key; spot graceful southern stingrays or one of four
and 224-room ranch. Natu- species of sea turtles on snorkeling tours of the colorful Florida Reef.
ral springs have long made Expanded offerings may soon include “paddlebirding” excursions to see
the area a true oasis, but mangrove cuckoos and great blue herons.
additional date palms and
shade trees will create an
even more private refuge.
44 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 ILLUSTRATION BY KEVIN WHIPPLE

PROMOTION
REG I S T ER
T OD AY
J O I N A F A R O N
T H E H I G H S E A S
July 27–August 3, 2019 | 7 days
Barcelona to Civitavecchia (Rome)
Join AFAR Sailings on its maiden voyage. This one-week summer cruise with
Silversea calls at some of the Mediterranean’s most idyllic ports in France, Italy,
and Spain, and you’ll be among an exclusive small group of guests with access to
private lunches and yacht tours alongside AFAR’s very own tastemaker, EVP/CRO
Ellen Asmodeo-Giglio.
On board the all-inclusive Silver Shadow you’ll experience the very best
>VV`>ÌÃ>`wiÃÌ>iÌiÃ]ÃÕV>ÃÃ«>VÕÃÃÕÌiÃ]LÕÌiÀÃiÀÛVi]>`
signature Relais & Châteaux culinary selections. You’ll enjoy special programming
both in ports and on board, as well as discover the region’s art, architecture, and
history on private tours.
For exclusive AFAR amenities, book this cruise

now at afarsailings.com/silversea.
E XP LORE THE SE PORT S :
BARC E LONA
SÈ TE
ST.-TROPEZ
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LIVORNO
OLBIA, SAR D I NI A
NAP LE S
ROME
LEARN MORE AT AFARSAILINGS.COM/SILVERSEA,

by calling 800-245-5904, or by emailing [email protected].
ADVERTISEMENT
Essentially
COSTA RICA
YOU CAN TAKE YOUR DREAM VACATION any time of
the year when you visit Costa Rica. It’s always the on-season here,
whether you want to see the pristine cloud forests and jungle canopy,
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shy ocelots or colorful macaws, or explore the region’s indigenous
cultures. Because of its proximity to the equator, this is a tropical
country full of natural wonders where the sun shines nearly every
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365 days a year.
Guanacaste • Waterfalls and golden beaches

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country’s northwest coast is a paradise for surfers, and Guanacaste is
also known for its diverse parkland and lush landscapes. Swim under
refreshing waterfalls and in emerald hot springs in Rincón de la Vieja
6I\QWVIT8IZSPWUM\WIOZMI\ÎZQM\aWNJQZLIVL_QTLTQNM
Caribbean Coast • Manzanillo

5IVbIVQTTW¼[JMI]\QN]T[\ZM\KPWNOWTLMV[IVLIVLVMIZJaJMIKPM[TQSM
8TIaI*WVQ\IIZMXMZNMK\NWZ[_QUUQVO[]VJI\PQVOIVLM`XTWZQVO\PM
ZMMN]VLMZ_I\MZWZWVIKI\IUIZIVWZJWI\<ZI^MTMZ[_QTTLQ[KW^MZ
I]VQY]MJTMVLWNVI\]ZIT_WVLMZ[IVL)NZW+IZQJJMIV\ZILQ\QWV[
culture, and cuisine in this part of the country.
Northern Plains • Arenal Volcano National Park

0WUM\WXMZKMV\WN+W[\I:QKI¼[JQZLXWX]TI\QWV\PQ[XIZSQV\PM
6WZ\PMZV8TIQV[Q[_PMZMaW]¼TTIT[WÅVL\PMUW[\IK\Q^M^WTKIVWQV
\PMKW]V\Za<PMXZM[MZ^MIT[WWMZ[MVLTM[[IL^MV\]ZM[NZWUPQSQVO
and waterfall rappelling to canopying and trekking to a cooled lava
ÅMTLI[_MTTI[Å[PQVOKIVWMQVOIVLSIaISQVOWV4ISM)ZMVIT
Isla del Caño • Snorkeler’s paradise

4WKI\MLUQTM[W\PMUIQVTIVLIVLKTWISMLQVZIQVNWZM[\1[TI
del Caño is a favorite of ecotourists exploring the country’s South
8IKQÅK+WI[\;VWZSMTMZ[IVL[K]JILQ^MZ[LM[KMVL\WWJ[MZ^MKWTWZN]T
ZMMNÅ[PUIV\IZIa[IVL\]Z\TM[_PQTMWVLZaOZW]VL^Q[Q\WZ[KIV
[MM\PMQ[TIVL¼[Ua[\MZQW][[\WVM[XPMZM[KZMI\MLJaIVIVKQMV\XZM
+WT]UJQIVKQ^QTQbI\QWV
Puntarenas • Manuel Antonio National Park

5IV]MT)V\WVQWUIaJM+W[\I:QKI¼[[UITTM[\VI\QWVITXIZS¸Q\
UMI[]ZM[TM[[\PIV\PZMM[Y]IZMUQTM[¸J]\Q\UIVIOM[\WÅ\ITW\QV\W
\PI\IZMI1\PI[NW]ZJMIKPM[IVLQ[PWUM\W![XMKQM[WNUIUUIT[
IVL [XMKQM[WNJQZL[7VIPQSM\PZW]OP\PMXIZSaW]UIa[XW\
PW_TMZ[Y]QZZMTIVLKIX]KPQVUWVSMa[#JW\POZMMVIVLJTIKS[XQVa
\IQTMLQO]IVI[#IVLQV\PM_I\MZ[W[PWZMLWTXPQV[IVLUQOZI\QVO
_PITM[KIVJM[MMV[_QUUQVOJa7^MZPMIL\W]KIV[_WWLXMKSMZ[
XIZISMM\[IVLPI_S[KQZKTMQV\PMJT]M[SQM[
To learn more, go to
visitcostarica.com
MY CHOICE, NaturalLY.
Find the perfect place to hide
from predictability.
The world is full of choices. Yours brought you here.
Come explore year-round. VisitCostaRica.com
© Costa Rica Tourism Board. All Rights Reserved.

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start
exploring
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journeys
Cayman Islands
Plan Your Caribbean Adventure
Three sun-kissed islands, and seven ways to explore them. AFAR Journeys is dreaming of island
life right now, so we have turned our attention to some of the most beautiful in the Caribbean:
Grand Cayman, Cayman Brac, and Little Cayman. Whether you want to explore the islands’
culinary traditions, their spectacular beaches and reefs, or spend some time on the route to
wellness—and whether you are traveling with your loved one or the entire family—AFAR Journeys
has an itinerary suited to your interests. Explore all the Cayman Islands itineraries, just launched
in August.
afar.com/journeys
connect S e p te m b e r/O c tob e r 20 1 8
PAINT THE TOWN

More than two-thirds of Singapore’s population lives in apartment
complexes, each building painted with a unique design.
YIK KEAT LEE
Equally unique? Laksa, the island nation’s iconic noodle soup.

Turn the page to get a taste.

PROMOTION
Brian Finke
João Canziani
Show Us
The World
For A Chance To Win
We want to highlight the diverse and creative ways in which

photographers like you are celebrating the world with the first-
ever AFAR Travel Photography Awards. We’re joining forces
with LensCulture and United Airlines to seek out and honor the
world’s best contemporary travel photography—by both amateurs
and professionals.
Show us the world through your lens! Winners will receive

international exposure, publication in AFAR, cash awards, and more.
AFAR.COM/TRAVELPHOTOAWARDS
Robin Hammond
NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Must be 18 years or older to enter. Entries must be submitted between 8/1/18 and 9/16/18. For Official Rules, visit afar.com/travelphotoawards.
connect feast
A SPOONFUL OF HISTORY
The best way to get a taste of Singapore’s rich culinary diversity:
Order a bowl of laksa, the island nation’s iconic soup.
by Anya von Bremzen
At Depot Road Zhen

Shan Mei Claypot
Laksa, a hawker stall,
Singapore’s seafood
noodle soup is cooked
and served in the same
earthenware pot.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ÉRIVER HIJANO SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 AFAR 51

connect feast
S LURP, S A V O R
Where to
Eat Laksa in
Singapore
1. The Original Katong Laksa

Descendants of a legendary
laksa street peddler nicknamed
Janggut serve a creamy-complex
version at this stall in the Roxy
Square mall. 50 East Coast Road,
Roxy Square
2. National Kitchen by
Violet Oon
T’S LUNCHTIME IN THE At her gorgeous restaurant inside
I food-crazy island nation of

Singapore, and I’m at a food
court in the Katong district,
breaking a double sweat. It’s not
just the tropical heat, but also the
the National Gallery Singapore,
chef Violet Oon serves a variety
of refined takes on Singapore
classics, including chili crab and
laksa, which she garnishes
with prawns and tau pok (fried
aromatic steam billowing from my tofu cakes). 1 St. Andrew’s Road
bowl of curry laksa, a Singaporean coconut splatter on my new linen #02-01. violetoon.com
concoction of noodles and seafood dress. “You’re richer than all the Travelers can try laksa
in a lavorful coconut-milk broth. pastas of Emilia-Romagna, more in a variety of settings, 3. Depot Road Zhen Shan
My irst messy spoonful of “gravy” complex than a Oaxacan mole.” from the upscale Mei Claypot Laksa
National Kitchen by
with slippery bee hoon (rice I irst encountered laksa right Rich, thick laksa cooked in a
Violet Oon, above,
to the humbler (but clay pot draws locals to this
noodles), fish cakes, and briny here in Katong more than two
famous) 328 Katong lesser-known hawker center. The
cockles and shrimp seems almost decades ago, while researching Laksa, top right. restaurant has earned Michelin
mellow—an equatorial answer a cookbook on Southeast Asian Bib Gourmand status. 120 Bukit
to New England chowder. Then cooking. It was love at first Merah Lane 1, #01-75, Alexandra
comes the heat of the chili, the spoonful. Prepared in Singapore Village Food Centre
funky umami oomph of dried and neighboring Malaysia, laksa
shrimp, and the mini-explosions is the culinary calling card of 4. 328 Katong Laksa
of blue ginger and lemongrass Peranakans, the descendants of Chef-owner Lucy Lim is a local
in the hand-pounded spice paste 16th-century male traders from legend (she and her son beat
Gordon Ramsay in a 2013 laksa
called rempah. To finish, the southern China who settled in
challenge). Her version comes
minty flavor of laksa leaves, aka the Malay Archipelago and mar- with pre-cut noodles and a
Vietnamese coriander. ried local Malay women. Babas healthy dollop of chili paste (if
“Ah, laksa, laksa,” I murmur (a term for Peranakan males) intro- you’re spice-averse, ask for yours
before addressing the chili- duced their wives (called nyonya) without it). 51-53 East Coast Road

connect feast
dining with Edmond Wong, a self-

appointed guardian of Peranakan
culture. Wong, who runs a travel
agency and a shop selling tradi-
tional sweets called Kim Choo
to the foods of their native China: the striking National Gallery Kueh Chang, is introducing me to fusion.” Then he runs off to lead
stir-fries, noodle soups, and Singapore, culinary grande dame the version served at the Original a heritage tour, and I blot a new
the like. Nyonya resourcefully Violet Oon serves a dry laksa, Katong Laksa stall. stain on my dress and dash across
added the tropical lavors of their with a thick, reduced gravy. At his “Katong laksa is a style of nyonya the street to 328 Katong Laksa, a
homeland—coconut, lemongrass, modern Wild Rocket restaurant, laksa that’s eaten with just the rival upstart. Here the dish, fiery
ginger, chili sambal—to create chef Willin Low once famously spoon,” he explains, “because the and brash, relects 328’s owner, a
the creolized masterpiece. With deconstructed the dish into bee hoon noodles are pre-cut.” crimson-haired chef named Lucy
apologies to more iconic foods fettuccine with laksa-leaf pesto The Katong neighborhood, he Lim. She and her son became
such as chili crab and Hainanese (it’s no longer on the menu). And explains further, with its restored island celebs after beating British
chicken rice, it is laksa, as the at Depot Road Zhen Shan Mei Chinese shophouses painted pink, chef Gordon Ramsay at a laksa
fragrant metaphor for Singapore’s Claypot Laksa, one can savor a buttercream, and pistachio, is challenge a few years ago. Poor
heady diversity, that deserves the Michelin-approved version made the epicenter of Gordon, I think, tak-
title of national dish. by brusque aunties and uncles Peranakan memo- ing a careful slurp
My current visit coincides with (afectionate Singlish for “elders”). ries. He sums it Whether you’re eating of noodles, shrimp
fancy laksa at Violet
a revival of Peranakan heritage The laksa there is mild and served up tidily: “Like Oon’s restaurant, top
so fresh they pop
throughout Singapore. Diferent in the clay pot in which the soup Peranakan culture, left, or hawker laksa at in my mouth, and
versions of laksa, both haute and was cooked. like its food, like Depot Road Zhen Shan chili-spiked gravy.
Mei, lower left, the uten-
hawker, thrive all over the island. Ultimately, all laksa trails lead Singapore itself, sils are the same: soup- The lad didn’t stand
At her opulent bistro inside to the Katong district, where I’m laksa is the ultimate spoon and chopsticks. a chance.

the charms of
CHARLESTON
In Charleston, South Carolina,
the tides tell the time. Dawn
dances on the ocean and
through the palmetto tree
fronds—a glimpse into the day
ahead. he past shines brightly
on monumental architecture,
and cobblestone streets lead to
cutting-edge cocktails poured
by a new friend. Some call
it hospitality. We call it the
endless welcome.
TR AVEL PICK
From high above, the Charleston area

resembles a beautiful tapestry woven with
shades of indigo, marshgrass and oyster
shell. Etched with barrier islands and bodies
of water, the landscape has a poetic shape.
Daily life is accompanied by a gentle harmony
of church bells, rustling palmetto fronds, and
lyrical sea island accents. Church steeples—
not skyscrapers—dot the skyline, and a
tangible connection to the past permeates
the community. With the perfect combination
of beautiful beaches, world-class cuisine,
antebellum architecture, and an endless supply
of engaging things to see and do, it’s no wonder
the Charleston area is consistently named a
top U.S. destination.
Discover the people, places, and traditions found only

in Charleston, South Carolina. Come, let this special
destination enliven your senses.
EXPLORECHARLESTON.COM
@ EX P LO R E C H A R L E S TO N @ E X P LO R E C H S
THE CRUISE FOR PEOPLE
WHO AREN’T ESPECIALLY
INTO CRUISES.
A thousand-year-old village. A river of lights. A memory time can’t extinguish.

Leave the crowds behind on a small, lovely ship, and lose yourself in the wonders
of an authentic culture. We can take you places other ships can’t. Call your travel
professional or Windstar Cruises at 888-749-3906. WindstarCruises.com
Star Legend, Hoi An Village, Vietnam.
connect resident
THE REAL JAIPUR

Jaipur, the centuries-old home of Rajasthan’s royal family,
is beginning to embrace the cutting edge. Samir Andrea Kasliwal,
an heir to the 166-year-old Gem Palace jewelry store, explains.
as told to Victoria Gomelsky
P
EOPLE ARE A LIT TLE confused it M.I. Road), in central Jaipur. Our family has we make. Much of it features diferent motifs
when they meet me, because I have owned the jewelry store for nine generations— that are characteristic of Indian designs:
an Indian name but my accent is and the decor hasn’t changed since it opened elephants, peacocks, lotus lowers. The gems
Italian. My father is from Jaipur, in 1852. People are amazed when I show them are the real standouts—everything from 20-
but I was born in Bologna, where my mother Jackie Kennedy’s signature in our guest book. carat Colombian emeralds and strands of
is from. In 2010, I moved to Jaipur, the capital But that’s nothing compared to the jewelry natural pearls to diamonds from the legendary
of Rajasthan. There aren’t many half-Italian Golconda mines near Hyderabad.
half-Indians in India; I think I know all of them I spent a lot of my childhood in the store,
by now. though I really started adapting to the local
My family’s business, the Gem Palace, is culture when I moved here to be more involved
located on Mirza Ismail Road (people here call in the business. Jaipur is more conservative
than Delhi or Mumbai, mainly because of the
city’s history as the seat of Rajasthan’s royal
family. People here are very attached to tradi-
tion and heritage.
But over the past decade, the capital has
become much more cosmopolitan. Jaipur
International Airport is being renovated and
will have direct lights to and from London.
Already we have nonstop lights to Dubai and
Bangkok. People who visited Jaipur just 10
years ago are shocked to see how rapidly it has
transformed into a metropolis with an interest-
ing skyline. There are more cool places now,
run by a young creative crowd that’s able to look
beyond the borders of India. They’ve had a huge
inluence on the shopping scene as well as the
food scene, which is improving every day.
Jaipur has always needed more places where
people can spend recreational time. This is
what a new generation of restaurants and shops,
like Parampara Jaipur, are aiming to provide.
The boutique is a gallery-shop that showcases
art, fashion, and photography. These are places
where, yes, you can shop and eat, but where
you’ll also find good music and green space.
The royal family of Jaipur is the most
prominent custodian of the cultural, artistic,
and architectural heritage of the city, but
we’re all—old residents and new—working
together to promote the city.
I have friends who, whenever
As a ninth-generation they come to Jaipur, change their
heir to Jaipur’s Gem
Palace, Samir Andrea
return ticket once, then twice,
Kasliwal is responsible because they want to stay longer.
for maintaining ties And it’s because of the vibe we’ve
with the royal family—
and with other celebrity created. The city is the capital of
clients (hi, Oprah). fun right now.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY SARA HYLTON SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 AFAR 57

connect resident
The Gem Palace Jantar Mantar
The Gem Palace Jantar Mantar Suján Rajmahal Palace Parampara Jaipur
“Our store is a shop, but it’s also “I love going to this 18th-century “This was a summer home “Virginia Borrero de Castro,
a meeting place for friends. On observatory to study the way belonging to the royal family a Colombian designer, recently
a typical day, I’m either creating the light hits the buildings. The of Jaipur before it was converted opened this boutique. For her
designs based on the gemstones geometric shapes of Jantar a few years ago into a boutique brand, De Castro Moda, she uses
I have available or I’m enter- Mantar find their way into my hotel with just 13 guest rooms. handloomed fabrics and embroi-
taining clients. You never know designs, especially in the jaali The terrace is the perfect place dered textiles from local artisans.
who’s going to walk in. It could filigree work—intricate gold and to enjoy an afternoon tea in a She also stocks pieces from de-
be Kendall Jenner or Oprah or silver designs—on the back Wes Anderson–type atmosphere.” signers around the world.” Mani
Hillary Clinton.” gempalace.com of our jewelry.” jantarmantar.org sujanluxury.com/raj-mahal Mahal, Panch Batti, M.I. Road
Suján Rajmahal Palace Suján Rajmahal Palace

connect resident
Dera Amer Andraab
Dera Amer Andraab Trunks Company Meraaki Kitchen

“This camp on the outskirts of “Andraab specializes in excellent “The first time I saw one of their “One of the co-owners was a
Jaipur was founded to support Kashmiri shawls. Every piece leather trunks, I wanted one. The finalist on India’s MasterChef.
forest and elephant conserva- is hand-embroidered and hand- company makes every sort of They serve all vegetarian food.
tion. There are also luxury woven by artisans in Kashmir. trunk you can think of, and they I love the reinterpretations of
tents—you could definitely call There’s a story behind every can customize them according to Indian street food such as the
it glamping. When I stay here, design—the Mughal Love pattern, your needs. I ordered a midsize chaki phulka [a type of roti] tacos,
I join the bird-watching sessions, for example, includes birds in trunk, in black leather with and sliders of pani puri [a doughy
which are personally guided by a nod to a 17th-century emperor burgundy suede lining, for my shell stuffed with potatoes and
the owner, Udaijit.” deraamer.com and naturalist.” andraab.com watches.” trunkscompany.com spices].” meraakikitchen.com
Trunks Company Meraaki Kitchen Trunks Company

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The Stirring Art

at the Beating Heart of
Bangkok
Galleries may be glorious but art is far more to the eye and heart when it is lived
with. At least that’s what the much-admired creators of Park Hyatt Bangkok
evidently believe. Also, if you’re looking for a sense of tranquility and peace of
mind within the energy of Bangkok city, stays here are a perfect union for a
balanced experience.
Of course, that’s not the whole reason for choosing this uniquely crafted hotel
for a Bangkok sojourn. For one thing, it couldn’t be better located to explore
everything that sparkles about the zesty city. Being centrally located in the heart
of Sukhumvit road, you can easily explore the vibrant metropolis that never sleeps
with a balance of ritzy restaurants and bars, local designer shops and cultural
experiences in the surrounding area all in one.
But even all that is somewhat upstaged by this hotel’s collection of extensive
art pieces in a highly original architecture and interior design. And it’s been
independently recognized by the Jane Drew Prize 2018, Conde Nast Hot List
and with its most recent accolade, the prestigious Prix Versailles Award for Hotel
Architecture and Design.
You will truly feel at home

with the comfort of liveable luxury
New York-based Yabu Pushelberg aimed to create a sophisticated private

residence and sanctuary uniquely diferent than any other hotel in Bangkok
and it was apparent as soon as you walk through the doors and lived in the
rooms. Details that had gone into the room décor includes a backdrop of
calming natural materials punctuated with timeless Thai accents. Moreover,
the feeling of rejuvenation was much appreciated as their bathrooms were
spa-inpsired with curated amenities by New York brand Le Labo.
There is much to experience within the hotel, including a guided tour of

over 20 original paintings and sculptures from both local and international
artists for all lovers of art. Our favorite piece is deinitely the Naga, a modern
interpretation of the Thai mythical water dragon that extends impressively
throughout an entire floor. It’s surely hard to miss.
The top three floors – Penthouse Grill + Bars – are pretty extraordinary, too.
Sipping on a nice chilled glass of sparkling wine and overlooking the Bangkok
skyline alone shouldn’t be missed.
If you ever feel like planning your next getaway to one of the most visited
cities in the world, Park Hyatt Bangkok is surely an experience to be reckoned
with; especially if you appreciate being pampered in opulence. A perfect
destination for the perfect getaway. You deserve it.
A TIP FOR TRAVEL
Book in advance for an ensured spot to experience this oasis above the city.
Central Embassy, 88 Wireless Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330

For reservations, please call +66 2011 7466 or email [email protected]
connect spin the globe
WAITING GAME
On a last-minute trip to Tokyo, without a single reservation in hand, food
writer Helen Rosner explores the Japanese art of standing in line.
REALIZED THIS MORNING,” said my friend Leah, “that this is who that doesn’t take reservations, I’ll agree only if we eat geriatrically early
I I am, here in Tokyo. I am a person who waits.” We were, at that

moment, 23rd and 24th in line at Fuunji Ramen, surrounded
front and back by locals and tourists, part of a neat queue that
snaked out the restaurant’s entrance to the curb, where it broke for the
tarmac only to pick up again in the grassy park across the street. Every
or owlishly late. I politely reject any brunch plans that involve putting
our names on a list and then hovering on the sidewalk for two hours.
I’ve never queued up for a cupcake or a cronut. And it’s not just food. At
amusement parks, I always pay extra to access fast-pass lines. Once, in
Barcelona, facing down a 50-minute rope-and-stanchioned time sink to
few minutes, the noren curtain hanging in front of the door would buy tickets to enter the Sagrada Família basilica, I whipped out my phone
twitch, discharging bodies into the Tokyo dusk, and we would steadily and bought them online, ignoring the inancial ravages of data roaming.
shule forward. To pass the time in this line, Leah was telling me about It’s impatience, I suppose, but also a sort of brutal rationality: On one
another: her wait the previous morning at Sushi Dai, the legendary hand, there’s the value of my time, and on the other, there’s the value
morning omakase restaurant and sushi bar at the Tsukiji fish market, of whatever I’m waiting for. The latter never really seemed worth that
where even showing up at 3 a.m. may not be enough lead time to guaran- much of the former.
tee a irst-round seat when the restaurant opens for breakfast at 5:00. Leah, whose trip to Tokyo just happened to coincide with mine, and
I am not a person who likes to wait for things. At home in New York, I were at Fuunji to eat tsukemen, the specialty of the tiny restaurant. The
if a friend suggests a meal at one of those tremendously cool restaurants place is presided over by a wiry ramen master rocking a blond, boy-band
ILLUSTRATIONS BY ANDREW JOYCE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 AFAR 63

coif. He dances behind the counter, boiling and draining and plating his the labyrinth of the Ginza subway station. There, I spent an hour behind
food with the percussive lamboyance of a lair bartender. Tsukemen is a slow-moving line of fewer than a dozen people, only to be told politely
a type of ramen in which the cold, cooked noodles are served separately, by a porter that the restaurant would run out of broth with the patron
on a plate, with a bowl of broth on the side—a dish meant to be eaten before me. I came back even earlier the next day and waited again, for
with precision, in deliberately constructed bites of noodles dipped in nearly two hours this time, mostly standing still, occasionally shuffling
the broth, then slurped up. forward. I watched harried commuters power-walk by, I listened to the
When, at last, we were waved over to a pair of seats, Leah and I bent murmured Japanese lirtations of the young couple in front of me, I read
hungrily over our bowls, slurping and semi-eavesdropping on the still- a few chapters of a novel on my phone, until at last I made it inside.
waiting people pressed into the At the end of all those waits
narrow space behind us. “This was, invariably, magnificence:
guy is supposed to be the real The most jewel-like sashimi. The
deal,” an American man said to his Queuing is a big deal in lightest pork cutlets. The richest,
wife. A knot of Australian bros deepest, most exquisite ramen
on a stag weekend read snippets Japan, a physical exercise of the broth I’ve ever had.
of TripAdvisor reviews out loud
to one another to psych them-
principles of discipline and There’s a phrase in Japanese
for places like this—gyouretsu no
selves up: “We waited outside for etiquette that are drilled into dekiru mise: “restaurants that have
30 to 40 minutes in the rain in very long lines.” The lines are
the early phase of a typhoon in every schoolchild and reinforced often self-fulfilling prophecies:
order to eat at Fuunji. Then, we The wait isn’t part of the cost,
spent 10 more minutes hovering
for every adult. as I’d always considered it; to a
over diners inside, waiting for Japanese person, it’s part of the
them to surrender their stools.” value. When presented with two
After our own tsukemen experience, another American in line caught vendors selling effectively identical products, the Japanese choose
my eye as we were leaving: “Is it worth it?” I didn’t answer, not really whichever one has the longer line in front of it. Making it through a long
knowing how. Sure, it was great, but was it an-hour-of-my-life great? line is a praiseworthy feat of endurance, and long queues for one thing
At least we hadn’t waited in the rain. or another are always in the news. Some retailers even try to game the
system, hiring line-wait professionals to pose as sincerely dedicated
consumers, equal parts priming the pump and angling for headlines.
HEN I ATE AT FUUNJI , I’d been in town for barely 24 These faux queuers also have a Japanese term to describe them—sakura,
W hours, most of them spent disoriented and cranky and

jet-lagged. I’m a plan-ahead kind of traveler, Tokyo is
a plan-ahead kind of city, and despite my guesses and
pleading, my editor refused to break the rules and give me any sort of
early heads-up on where she was sending me. The whole point of this
the word for “cherry blossoms.” They’re adornment, they make things
look good, and they really bring in the crowds.
I was in Tokyo for the very end of actual sakura season, when the
city’s abundant cherry trees bedeck the streets with a riot of pink. In
anticipation, I’d packed a Canon A-1, a petite brick of a camera from
assignment is not to plan ahead. So I had one day’s notice that I was the late ’70s that shoots 35mm ilm and runs about 50 bucks at a used
being sent to Tokyo, a day marked by feverish crowd-sourcing of tips camera store. I hadn’t photographed that way in years, and as I commit-
and recommendations—and virtually every restaurant, every bar, ted myself ever more deeply to my new practice of patience, shooting
every museum and tour that my friends sent my way required either on ilm became a pleasing part of it. A 40-year-old camera has no LCD
a two-month lead time or a two-hour wait in line. screen with instant preview—I couldn’t know which vignettes of Tokyo
Queuing is a big deal in Japan, a physical exercise of the principles I was successfully capturing, and which would be preserved only in
of discipline and etiquette that are drilled into every schoolchild and memory. Unlike enjoying the seemingly infinite capacity of a DSLR
reinforced for every adult. People line up, without apparent impatience, with a 128-gigabyte memory card, when you shoot film, you can only
not only at ramen restaurants and store cash registers, but also to board shoot so much. Each frame is precious, which means you need to make
subway trains, nab a taxi at a stand, and enter elevators. After the 2011 it worth it. You need to wait for the shot.
Tōhoku earthquake—an event so tectonically powerful that it shifted the
entire main island of Japan eight feet eastward and spat up a towering
tsunami that ravaged the country’s northeast—the world watched in awe HAT ’S WHAT I WA S doing when the strangest, most wondrous,
as millions of afected Japanese refrained almost entirely from looting,
and instead waited in calm, orderly lines to receive supplies, sometimes
for 12 hours or more. Next to that, how can my aversion to a queue mean
anything at all? I realized that—like Leah, like everyone else in Tokyo—
like it or not, I was going to have to become a person who waits.
T most ineffably Tokyo part of my time there happened. I
was sitting on the stone parapet of a bridge over a canal in
Nakameguro, a crushingly lovely neighborhood on Tokyo’s
southwest side, waiting for the sun to hit a cherry tree. Sakura season
was running a week or so ahead of schedule, and this was one of the only
In the dim light of sunrise, I stood for an hour to get sushi at a tiny trees in the city still in bloom. It was almost surreally pink, so volup-
Tsukiji restaurant whose name I couldn’t igure out. On the top loor of tuously top-heavy with blossoms it looked about to tumble over. The
a department store, I waited for a table for one to open up at a hushed, tree was surrounded by gawkers: selfie-taking platoons of teenagers,
jam-packed tonkatsu restaurant. I waited for ramen—for a lot of ramen, designer-decked Instagram couples taking turns posing for elaborately
and especially for one particular bowl, at Ginza Kagari, a tiny counter in serious portraits, and one or two visitors who, like me, had led the city’s

packed tourist epicenters for a little bit of quiet. I would be leaving He’s very famous here.” We both turned our heads to look at the crowd of
Tokyo the next day, and I was on my last roll of ilm. selie takers and their utter lack of interest in Björn Andrésen.
When I irst rounded a corner and saw the tree, it was darkened by “He’s also famous in Sweden,” he added.
the early-afternoon shadow of a nearby oice building. I decided to Andrésen, my phone informed me a few moments later, is a musician
wait. And then—well, the only way to explain it is to say that a wizard and actor, most famous for playing, as a young teenager, the ethereally
appeared. Tall, rail thin, European featured, with a long gray beard beautiful Tadzio in Luchino Visconti’s exquisite and absurd 1971 film
and white hair lowing halfway down his back, wearing a loor-length Death in Venice, which I have seen probably half a dozen times. Hid-
leather robe. No, a coat—and an acoustic guitar case? And . . . a ilm den behind his beard and his age, Andrésen showed not a trace of his
adolescent self, a being so classically luminous
he was tapped to play the human embodiment
of beauty as a moral virtue. As a young man,
Andrésen came to resent being rewarded for
his beauty, and rebelled against a conventional
Hollywood path. I suppose outgrowing your
old self is also a sort of waiting, just a longer
one than usual. Andrésen and the documen-
tary crew had arrived just as the tree was fully
bathed in sunlight, and even though I’d been
waiting to photograph the tree, I spent the last
of my frames trying to capture these people
standing in front of it.
OK YO IS A MAGICAL PL ACE . I knew
T this going in, even though I’d never

been there before. Every great city
is magical, a unique alchemy of
climate and culture, of the past and the future.
But in Tokyo I found a magic of extremes.
It’s a fast, crowded, chaotic place, surging and
staccato—until it’s not. You’ll turn a corner
onto a side street, or the minute hand on your
watch will tick over the hour, and suddenly
all that urgent density falls away. The city is a
pattern of movement and stillness, sounds
and silences.
What I found, as I let myself relax into
being a person who waits, is that even if you’re
standing near roaring traic—or in a subway
station during the crush of rush hour, or in
the riot of a department store—inside the act
of waiting, there’s a form of quiet. As my days
in Tokyo passed by, I felt myself undergo an
almost physical change: In the megacity, my
restlessness retreated, my breath slowed. I
could feel something else emerging inside
me, a blanket unrolling over a rumpled bed,
a calmness that was neither contentment nor
boredom. Patience was its own emotion.
crew? A knot of white men, one carrying a boom mic, one with a massive When I got home, I took my Ziploc bag of tightly wound rolls of ilm
video camera hefted on his shoulder, one worriedly holding a clipboard. to one of the few remaining places in New York that processes them.
There was a brief ripple of interest among the selie takers, but after a “We’ll call you when it’s ready,” shrugged the man behind the coun-
moment they all returned to contemplating the tree. The wizard stopped ter, when I asked how long it would take. “Can’t go any faster than it
directly in front of the tree, and the cameraman iddled with his lenses goes. You’ll just have to wait.”
to get the right shot. The sound guy, waiting for his cue, leaned against
the bridge next to me. Writer Helen Rosner is profiled on page 16. British illustrator Andrew
“Who is that?” I asked him, assuming he would understand English. Joyce lives in Japan and is the cofounder of the Tokyoiter project. See
“That,” he said, in a mildly conspiratorial tone, “is Björn Andrésen. more of his work at doodlesandstuff.com.

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Singapore’s Tree
House building
is home to one of
the world’s largest
vertical gardens.
BRETT BULTHUIS PHOTOGRAPHY
Slip into a secret garden. Climb to a rooftop oasis.

Stroll an elevated park. To get a fresh angle on a city,
take a walk on its green side.
by Miranda Smith
We are drawn to cities
for their dazzling
lights, their bustling
streets, and their
dynamic cultural
blends. But sometimes particularly ones of
the beaten path—
we need a break from ofer both a new

angle on a city and a
place to simply ab-
the noise, the crowds, sorb your experience.
“I love walking in cit-
the urbanness of it all. ies, but at some point,
you need to sit down,
have a sandwich,
rest your feet, and
And when we find a green just reflect on what you’ve seen,”
space—tucked between buildings, Musgrave says. For his book, he
growing from a wall, blooming sought out visually arresting,
FRESH AIR
in a reclaimed lot—another side lesser-known sanctuaries with

of a city reveals itself. a story to tell. “Each one has its
“Humans have this incredible own individual character, but they
ingenuity to turn little corners are all three-dimensional works
of spare space into remarkable of art,” he says. On the following
green resources for the public,” pages, you’ll ind our suggestions
says Toby Musgrave, the author (as well as Musgrave’s) for the best
of the new book Green Escapes places around the world to ind
(Phaidon, 2018), which features peace, draw inspiration, go for a
Follow the dots a diverse collection of more than stroll, or take in the view. Because
for a tour of 260 urban parks and gardens the most stimulating urban
Toby Musgrave’s around the world. jungles have a bit of the actual
favorite parks. For travelers, parks— jungle in them, too.

These little-known
gardens offer a chance
to pause and reflect.
1 3
St. Dunstan- Wendy’s Secret
in-the-East Garden
Church Garden Sydney
London
Tucked between
An English parish Lavender Bay and
church built in 1100, 2 Clark Park, this gar-
St. Dunstan-in- den exists because
the-East was first one woman wanted
damaged in the 1666 Biblioteca
to reclaim her life
Great Fire of London. Vasconcelos
after the deaths of
It was restored but Greenhouse
her former husband
again ravaged dur- Mexico City
and her only child.
ing the Blitz in 1941. Beloved for its sus- Fueled by grief,
Instead of rebuilding, pended bookshelves Wendy Whiteley
the city of London and whale skeleton, transformed a
used the church’s Mexico City’s “mega- derelict rail yard into
shell to create a pub- library” is a sanctu- a vibrant space full
lic garden in 1967. ary for more than of ferns, bright flow-
FROM LEFT: MARGOT KALACH, DANIEL SHIPP
Halfway between the just books. In a 6.4- ers, and Bangalow

Tower of London and acre botanic garden, palms. Lavender St.,
London Bridge, this a factory repurposed Lavender Bay
Gothic green space as a greenhouse
The Biblioteca filled with trees and shelters an array of
Vasconcelos climbing vines offers palm trees and an
greenhouse may a refuge from the city aromatic garden of
soon feature a and a reminder of its native plants.
reading nook. resilience. Eje 1 Norte Mosqueta
St. Dunstan’s Hill S/N, Buenavista

One side of the Tree
2
House in Singapore
is planted with an Namba Parks
evergreen climber, Osaka
known as sky
vine, that is native Created in 2003 on
to South Asia. the site of Osaka’s
former baseball sta-
dium, Namba Parks
Space-efficient, environmentally is a meandering
friendly, and easy on the eyes, green space incorpo-
these living buildings are rated into a massive
the future of green architecture. shopping mall. A
rock canyon winds
through the mall,
and each terrace
offers something to
be discovered: Tree
groves, waterfalls,
and vegetable gar-
dens await among
boutiques and
restaurants.
2 Chome-10-70
Nanbanaka
1 3
FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF CITY DEVELOPMENTS LIMITED, GIUSEPPE CACACE/AFP/GETTY IMAGES

Tree House Bosco Verticale
Singapore Milan
At the time it was On the edge of
completed in 2013, Milan’s Isola district,
the Tree House’s a pair of residential
24,640-square-foot, towers hosts 800
west-facing green trees, 4,500 shrubs,
facade, which spans and 15,000 plants
24 floors, broke the on balconies that
Guinness World project from all four
Record for largest sides of each build-
vertical garden. The ing. It took botanists
429-unit building three years to select
is as green as its the right mix of
Residents also have surrounds: It’s lo- plants. When it was
cated in Singapore’s completed in 2014,
FRESH AIR
access to three
terraces, each filled park-filled District Bosco Verticale won
with trees and other 23, and from the International
local plants. their apartments, Highrise Award,
residents can enjoy given every two years
a view of the Bukit to “the most beauti-
Timah Nature ful and innovative
Reserve and Upper highrise in the
The plants reduce Peirce Reservoir. world.”
heat absorption 60 Chestnut Ave. Via De Castillia, 11
and, combined
with other eco-
measures, save
residents more than
$350,000 in an-
nual energy costs.

9850 W ILSHIRE BO ULEVARD, BEVERLY HILLS, CA 9021 0 | +1 31 0 860 6666 | WWW.WALDORFASTORIABEVERLYHILLS.COM
Inspired by the Promenade Plantée
in Paris, the High Line, New York’s
famous converted rail park, planted
the seed for urban greenway
projects all over the United States.
Dequindre Cut links the city’s

Eastern Market neighborhood
BeltLine with the riverfront via two paved
miles of the former Grand Trunk
Railroad. In Atlanta, the massive
In 2015, the year following the 1993. Now the model has spread BeltLine project that began in
completion of Manhattan’s High to more U.S. cities. 2008 is a third of the way done,
Line, the 1.45-mile elevated park Chicago, Detroit, and Atlanta with 11 miles of trail. By 2030,
attracted 7.6 million visitors to have rehabilitated their own the project—which will connect
the city’s Chelsea neighborhood. disused railroads to create linear 45 Atlanta neighborhoods—will
But New York wasn’t the first city parks. Opened a year after the include 1,300 acres of parkland,
to turn its old rails green. Paris High Line, the elevated 606 33 miles of multi-use trails, and
built the first elevated, linear trail runs for 2.7 miles on the 22 miles of light-rail.
urban park in the world, the former Bloomingdale Line route, The common denominator
Promenade Plantée, on the aban- connecting four neighborhoods among the newest parks? All
doned Vincennes railway line in in northwest Chicago. Detroit’s have tapped into an organization
called the High Line Network,
established to connect community
leaders working on infrastructure
reuse projects. The network is
FRESH AIR
currently at work in 19 communi-

ties across North America.
One such project, the Phila-
delphia Rail Park, completed its
first phase in June. The quarter-
mile section from Callowhill
Street to North Broad Street kicks
off an effort to transform three
miles of the defunct Philadelphia
& Reading Railroad. When fin- the ground-level “Cut” weaving
ished, the Rail Park will consist between the streets, and the
of three sections—the elevated subterranean “Tunnel” running
“Viaduct” with views of the city, under Pennsylvania Avenue—and
connect 10 neighborhoods in
Promenade Plantée central Philadelphia.

OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: CHRISTOPHER T. MARTIN, DIANE COOK
New York’s High

Line isn’t just a
park—visitors can
take a garden tour
and catch a show.
& LEN JENSHEL, CÉLINE CLANET
1993 2014 2015 2016 2018 2030

Paris’s elevated, New York’s 1.45-mile Chicago’s elevated The final section of Philadelphia’s future Projected comple-
three-mile High Line is com- 2.7-mile rail trail, the Detroit’s two-mile three-mile trail, Rail tion date of Atlanta’s
Promenade Plantée pleted on a spur of 606, opens on the Dequindre Cut opens Park, opens its first 33-mile BeltLine,
opens on the former the former New York former Bloomingdale on a former Grand quarter-mile section which currently runs
Vincennes railway. Central freight line. Line. Trunk Railroad line. in June. 11 miles.

1
Palácio do
Itamaraty Roof-
top Garden
Brasília
From Palácio do
Brasília’s Oscar
Itamaraty’s garden,
Niemeyer–designed These green spaces put a visitors can get
Palácio do Itamaraty roof under your feet and an aerial view of
houses Brazil’s help you to see a city from Brasília’s modernist
Ministry of Foreign
Affairs, one of the
a new perspective. buildings.
country’s largest
public art collec-
tions, and a delight-
fully understated
top-floor garden. A
slatted roof allows
sunbeams to reach
the beds of palms,
ferns, and grass, and
the arched facade
offers views of
Niemeyer’s National
Congress build-
ing. Esplanada dos
Ministérios Bloco H
2 3
ACROS Fukuoka Salesforce Park
Prefectural Inter- San Francisco
national Hall Just opened this
Fukuoka August in San
In this multipurpose Francisco, the
building on Kyushu, 5.4-acre Salesforce
the southernmost of Park sits atop the
Japan’s main islands, highly anticipated
15 terraces draped Salesforce Transit
in greenery sit atop Center. The public
1 million feet of space space includes an
that holds Fukuoka amphitheater, res-
FRESH AIR
Symphony Hall, taurants, and a vari-

exhibit spaces, and ety of gardens filled
a tourist informa- with native plants.
tion center. At the Take an elevator from
top: a deck offering the Transit Center
views of the city and lobby or, better yet,
Hakata Bay. ride the new gondola
1-1-1 Tenjin, Chuo-ku that ascends from
Mission Square for
LEONARDO MARTINS
fifth-story views of
the city’s upward-
expanding Financial The garden features
a bronze piece from
District and SoMa
the late Brazilian
neighborhoods.
surrealist sculptor
130-164 First St.
Maria Martins.

“Learning AFAR gave me the
opportunity to experience a
whole new world.”
—Elian, a student at a Chicago-area school who traveled to Costa Rica with Learning AFAR
Imagine a world where one million students travel to discover and

realize their full potential.
With your help, we’ve provided Learning AFAR scholarships for 900 underserved students since 2009.
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this intimate trip, you’ll travel with AFAR’s three-night, two-day trip:
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In Partnership with
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IT’S A STICKY-HOT NIGHT IN BUENOS AIRES district. I am carrying an umbrella. It rained
and I am walking endlessly toward dinner. earlier, a frantic, humid release, and you can
I had set out an hour earlier from my hotel. I still feel the threat of more in the air. I am
followed the western edge of the Río Dársena stupidly wearing a blazer, which is light, but
Sur north until it spilled out into the bay, then not light enough, and I am rotating through
pivoted into the crooked streets of the Retiro its placement options in 10-minute intervals,
When he stumbled onto the subterranean

Florería Atlántico bar, hidden beneath a flower
shop, writer Mark Byrne got his first
taste of cocktail culture in Buenos Aires.

taking it of, draping it over my arm, or throw- I mean disconnected from the portable, mere thought of such a trip terriied me. That
ing it over my shoulder whenever the skin it ininite answer machines we now carry with seemed as good a reason as any to take one.
is covering becomes too slick with sweat. I am us everywhere. When was the last time you So I booked a ticket to somewhere I had
not lost. The street with the restaurant I am wanted information—an address, a route, a never been. And then I didn’t google it.
looking for is somewhere of this road, Avenida translation—and couldn’t simply ask your
Santa Fe. I have been paying attention to signs. phone? Can you remember? That was how
we used to travel. It wasn’t all that long ago.
It feels like forever. THESE WERE THE RULES: NO LOOKING
I’ve come to Buenos Aires to try it again. I things up in advance. No looking things up
remember it, a decade ago. In Paris, without while I’m there. I was to navigate the city
the help of a smartphone, walking tangled techlessly. An added challenge: I don’t speak
roads until I understood their logic, picking Spanish. Not even a little.
restaurants because it looked like people On my irst day in Buenos Aires, I wrestled
inside were having fun, not because I’d read a with a confusion that bordered on paralysis.
review somewhere. This was before my irst I didn’t know where to start. My hotel, the
iPhone. Before Instagram and all that. Before I Faena, was in a neighborhood called Puerto
became a travel writer, a complicit contributor Madero, a small bastion of high-end apartment
to the world of overworked itineraries. Before towers. The hotel itself was cool in a way that
I learned the research tricks that can unlock a gives its guests a home-ield advantage: It has
city from afar. a fun bar, a couple of good restaurants, a pool
I know, for instance, that the photos that’s treated by some locals as a destination.
submitted by users on Yelp and TripAdvisor That is the world inside the Faena. The area
are the best way to handicap a must-hit list, that surrounds it is glassy and quiet.
I found my hotel on a paper
map that I purchased at the
airport. The map did not show
What I had not done in a me where the coffee shops are,
long time was embrace or where the young people eat,

or where to find stores I might
a locale without an agenda. like—pieces of information I
tend to be armed with before I’ve
So I booked a ticket to even touched down. So I traced
a square around my hotel and set
somewhere I’d never been. out on foot.
And then I didn’t google it. That’s how I spent my first
afternoon. I got a feel for the
place’s aesthetics, the canyon-like
cityscape against its broad Pari-
deprived as they are of staging, or good light, sian avenues, the alternating gloss and decay
or good angles. I lean on these bad photos of the new apartment buildings and strips of
religiously—they’re honest in a way that pro- battered convenience stores. I started to un-
fessional, commercial photography never is. derstand the way the city looks, but I igured
I can ind a city’s coolest restaurant this way out very little about how to dive into it.
in a single afternoon, from 3,000 miles away. By evening I decided that I needed to
This has been a precursor to every trip change my tactics, so I hopped into a cab (cabs
I’ve taken for the better part of seven years. are ubiquitous here, and cheap) and asked to
It is, I admit, not cool. It is orderly, analytical, be taken to the Four Seasons. In big cities
somewhat predatory. It has more in common there tends to be a Four Seasons. Cabbies can
with detective work than wanderlust: I develop always ind the Four Seasons. And frequently,
a series of assumptions about a place using the the Four Seasons has a good bar. I am neither
information available, then visit it largely for a lush nor an extrovert, but a good bar can
the thrill of proving myself right. put training wheels on a city. At the very least,
What I had not done in a long time was there’s usually a solid burger. And there’s
embrace a locale on a human level, without an almost always easy conversation with your
I am not lost, I am sure of that. agenda, without advance work, without the fellow drinkers.
At the moment, though, I have no way to framework of someone else’s advice. I began Fifteen minutes later, I found myself at
know if my certainty is justified. to wonder what I was missing out on—what Pony Line, an instantly familiar setting just of
Think about the last time you were ever kind of spontaneity my digital investigative the hotel’s wood-paneled lobby. For a moment,
truly on your own. I don’t mean simply solo; work was stripping from my travel. The I worried that I was wasting a night, but then

the burger was spectacular and so were the know that wherever there are bars pulling a place called Chila, on the grounds that it
cocktails. And what does it mean to waste of the speakeasy thing—wherever groups of seemed marginally smaller and less ostenta-
a night, anyway? What is the litmus test for people stick around outside to smoke and then tious than its neighbors.
successfully being in a place? head back in for more—there’s usually some- I was wrong. It was a tasting menu kind of
I added a new rule to the list: No expecta- thing worth seeing. I waited for the smokers place. I was served two amuse-bouches, sweet-
tions about what it means to travel correctly— to stomp out their cigarettes, and I wandered breads, and a very delicious sponge of some
no comparisons to how I would move about inside right behind them. sort. A group of 11 American men in khakis and
when fully armed with a smartphone. Under sport coats came in for a celebratory dinner.
normal circumstances, it’s fair to say that the They drank innumerable trays of champagne.
lobby bar of a fancy hotel would not be my Sitting at the restaurant’s bar, I directed a uni-
irst stop. But I could’ve done worse. I ordered THAT FIRST NIGHT WAS A GOOD START. versally translatable eyebrow raise at the bar-
another drink. There was indeed a bar hidden down a light tender, the one that means “These guys, huh.”
Dinner concluded, I decided to walk home. of stairs beneath the lower shop: Florería He laughed. “Petroleum industry,” he said.
Along the way, I passed a flower shop with Atlántico. It was packed, standing room only, So now we were friends, me and Andrés. I
a crowd outside smoking cigarettes. It was but the drinks were solid, inventive fare: tiki told him about the bar I visited the previous
11 p.m., and the shop’s lights were on. Nobody with a loral bent. The city, it seems, has a rich night, and I asked him if there were other plac-
was buying lowers. cocktail culture; no bar so fully realized could es I could go for drinks like that. He smiled: “I
I hung outside for a few seconds, then I exist in a vacuum. have worked at several.” He suggested to me
two bars in an area he said was
very cool. I inished dinner with
another amuse, a watermelon
sorbet, and a ridiculous gin-and-
citrus ice crisp concoction. I lost
count of the courses. The oilmen
were still celebrating when I left.
SO NOW I HAD A LIST. BUT HOW

to use it? The next night, I unfolded
my map on the loor of my hotel
room and found Malabia Street.
Andrés had told me that on this
street, in the Palermo district,
there is a cocktail den hidden
behind a sushi restaurant. I jot-
ted down a grid of the streets in
the area on hotel stationery and
stufed it in my pocket. I waited
for the rain to die down, then I set
out. It was 7:30 p.m., 90 degrees,
and I had no idea how far I was
about to walk.
Four miles. An hour and a half
later, I am where this story began,
sweating beneath my blazer on
Avenida Santa Fe. And I’m begin-
Inventive cocktails served in a I was determined to find more, hungry, at ning to feel nervous. I’m now concerned that
welcoming underground space have this point, to discover something organically my sense of how far one thing on the map
earned Florería Atlántico a place on about Buenos Aires, to get to know at least one is from another thing is drastically flawed.
lists of the world’s best bars. little facet of the place. I had followed a crowd Malabia Street is nowhere to be found.
into a bar. Perhaps the people in that bar would I keep walking. That’s when I see another
lead me to another, and so on. By the end of my familiar word.
saw a door inside the shop open and reveal trip, I might get a sense of how, if I lived there, Anasagasti is the other bar that Andrés
a glow, a staircase, noise. A string of twenty- I would experience the city. I decided to make mentioned, and here is a street called Anasa-
somethings iled out. this my goal. gasti. I couldn’t ind it on my map, but now
I know this stuff. This was a bar. Better I explored closer to home the next evening, that I’ve stumbled on it, I’m elated to think my
yet, it was a speakeasy. And I’ve been hanging ducking into one of the posh-looking restau- walk may be over. It’s just after nine. I don’t
around the cocktail world long enough to rants along the waterfront. For dinner, I chose have the exact address of the bar, but the block

looks like it dead-ends at the next intersection. The Crystal Bar in the Alvear Icon Not one or two but three antechambers
I walk up and down, up and down. The Hotel on the Puerto Madero behind the sushi restaurant, the Prohibition-
street is dark, lifeless. There is nothing that waterfront offers an unparalleled themed den plays old-timey music; it lists its
seems even remotely bar-like. I lean against view of Buenos Aires at night. drinks on newsprint menus, and the bartend-
a building. I peer into a couple of windows. ers who make them wear leather-trimmed
Here, I will admit that I yearned for a cell aprons. I watch one guy methodically, passion-
phone, if only to track down the street number Remember the rules? There are no wasted ately stir a drink, as if there is not a single more
at which to present myself—somewhere at nights on this trip. Reader, I have a hot dog. crucial thing to be done in the entire world.
least to knock. Instead, I lean. And walk. And We’re not playing the game where I make I’m going to like this place.
stare. Eventually, I return to Avenida Santa myself regret that choice. Argentina wants me I sit at the bar with a magazine, watching
Fe and keep walking. Fifteen minutes later, I to experience its Shake Shack rip-of, and I the bartenders patiently churn out drinks.
inally come to Malabia Street. am happy to oblige. I’ve been walking for two One of them is making the same thing over and
Nicky Harrison, the sushi restaurant with a hours in 90-degree South American humidity. over again, a submission, he tells me, for a Best
secret cocktail bar, presents a diferent issue: I need sustenance. Cocktail in the World contest. I try it—a frothy,
I can’t get in. The bar doesn’t open until 10, Sated, I return to Nicky Harrison. The bar, light, citrusy concoction in a coupe glass—and
I’m told, and the restaurant is full. Come back I’m now told, is “members only,” but I talk my am pretty sure he has a chance.
later, the doorman says. This street, Malabia, way in. (It’s simpler than it sounds. Step one: Then he makes me something called the
has more going on, but most of the restaurants The blazer. Always a blazer. Dark blue, simple, Mr. Bukowski, an ingenious combination of
are equally packed. And then I see it: a glow- soft shoulders. Step two: A small footprint. bourbon, beer, espresso, cocoa, and tobacco,
ing green awning, something that instantly I’m just going to take up a single barstool, and mixed in perfect balance and served in a
reminds me of home. there’s usually one open between couples. smoke-illed beer bottle. My expectations for
It’s Shake Shack. Actually it’s called Dean Pointing that out can tip the doorman’s scales this drink are not great, so the fact that I love
& Denny’s, but it’s either ailiated with Shake in your favor. Step three: Conidence. You’re it leaves me speechless. Before I leave, while
Shack or a spot-on rip-of. The menu is nearly supposed to be here. Say it over and over I’m still in awe, the bartender adds four new
identical, and the whole thing is accented in to yourself until both you and the doorman bars to my list.
the exact same shade of green. believe it.) I stumble out of Nicky Harrison and decide

Roaming from bar to
bar in Buenos Aires can lead
a traveler to impromptu
jam sessions like this one in
Palermo’s Plaza Serrano.

to walk past Anasagasti on my way to hail a cab. Here, it’s served in an actual syringe. I squirt from riding along in the breast pocket of my
This time, a smoker outside reveals its location. the liquid into a glass of ice and ask the blazer, but the brain trust that helped compose
(Of course, there is no posted sign.) bartender to add to my list of bars. He looks it it knew what they were doing, and I am pledg-
I drink a Penicillin here, a whiskey cocktail over. “No,” he says. “This is good.” ing allegiance to their recommendations. It is a
invented at a bar in New York in the early The truth is, at this point, I have a Gollum- good list. And I’m not vetting it, like I normally
aughts, now considered a modern classic. like obsession with my list. It is getting tattered would. I’m out there living it.
Clockwise from top left: Florería Atlántico; the Palermo

district at night; a drink at Anasagasti gets its finishing touch;
Parque Bar Botánico in the Palermo Soho neighborhood.

A quirk of my mission is that it has led me to closest to my hotel.
see most of the city at night. This is not to say Here’s the thing: This place doesn’t exist.
I haven’t ventured out during the daytime. I
have. But without the focus of a new bar to see,
Where to Drink Or it does exist, but it has no signage. Or it has
signage, but is closed on Thursday nights. Or
the wandering is just that: wide loops around in Buenos Aires I just can’t ind it. Ten minutes after arriving
the hotel, by the water, or through the adjacent at the intersection where it’s supposed to be
Anasagasti
and making two trips up each street splitting
Step through the unmarked
of from it, I decide to call it a night. Without
wooden door on a quiet
Palermo street and grab a my cell phone, I can’t conirm the exact street
tufted chair under the art nou- address or pull up a photo of the storefront.
veau chandelier to peruse the Without a solid grasp of Spanish, I can’t stop
craft cocktail and tapas menu. a local and ask for a quick assist. I’ve got no
anasagasti.com.ar fallback plan.
On my way back to the hotel, I have a couple
Crystal Bar
of pints at a loud, fun, beer bar called Cervelar
The Alvear Icon Hotel opened
last year in Puerto Madero, and and relect on my kneecapped plans. What
its 32nd-floor bar offers some of the No Wasted Nights rule? Why did it feel
of the best views in the city. like such a letdown to leave that spot unvis-
alvearicon.com ited? Surely this type of thing has happened
before—for millennia, humans did without cell
Florería Atlántico phones to point them in the direction of poorly
Beneath a flower shop, behind marked restaurants. So maybe it’s the obvious
a refrigerator door, a speakeasy
thing. Without technological help, this is
serves drinks inspired by the
home countries of Argentina’s exactly as adept a traveler as I am—the lost
immigrant population: For in- man on a strange street in a faraway place.
stance, Spanish drinks feature
Andalusian sherry.
floreriaatlantico.com.ar
TWO WEEKS L ATER, BACK IN NEW YORK,
The Harrison Speakeasy
at Nicky Harrison I open my laptop and type in Doppelgänger.
You might have to sweet-talk There it is, in an instant: It is exactly one block
your way into the Prohibition- south of where I thought it was. It wasn’t
style spot tucked behind a sushi closed or hidden. I just had the streets wrong.
restaurant, but the cocktails are I click on Google Street View and do a
well worth the effort. digital walk-by, one of those small acts of
nicky-harrison.com
magic that’s so easy to take for granted. Now
Parque Bar Botánico I’m standing on the corner, looking at the
Visiting this bar in Palermo front of the bar. In the catalogued image of
Soho is like stepping into a the building, the bar is closed (it was daytime
garden: The walls are draped when the Google van did its drive-by), but I
in greenery, and the florally think I would have recognized it if I’d come
garnished cocktails are named
upon it that night. I click on the sidewalk and
after parks around the world.
parquebar.com my perspective moves, shifting down the block
as though I’m walking. I keep clicking, keep
Pony Line at the Four walking. The storefronts are as impenetrably
Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires foreign to me as they were when I saw them in
The Pony Line serves artisanal person. I reach the end of the block and zoom
beers, sparkling wine, and clas- back out into the standard, top-down map
sic cocktails with local twists,
view, and now everything is clearer: a grid of
including a yerba maté martini.
elenaponyline.com buildings marked with icons, fully annotated,
all that I could ever want to know at the click of
Uptown BA a button. Next time, I decide, I should probably
To get to the Palermo club use this, too.
modeled after a New York City
parks, beautiful walks that I probably would’ve subway station, walk down Mark Byrne wrote “Eyes Wide Open in Kenya”
the stairs, pass through the
Instagrammed if that had been an option. in the July/August 2016 issue of AFAR.
turnstile, and board the car that
And now it’s my last day in Buenos Aires, acts as a gateway to the thump- Photographer Dina Litovsky shot Tel Aviv for
and more important, my last night. I decide to ing, graffiti-covered space. “Spin the Globe” in the November/December 2017
head to Doppelgänger, the bar on my list that’s uptownba.com issue of AFAR.

Since it opened in 2017,
crowds have packed Uptown
BA to experience its New
York Subway vibe and drink its
acclaimed cocktails.
An artist at Bellerby &
Co. Globemakers adds
a detail to a custom
globe. What started as
a quest for a gift
for the father of the
company’s founder has
grown into a business.

Amid the gleaming skyscrapers of
modern-day London, Lisa Abend discovers the city’s
centuries-old crafts tradition is alive and well.
B
latter-day creative work spaces, into one of the
city’s long-disused enclosed arches beneath
the train tracks. A dark tangle of tools, sparks,
and noise, the knife-making workshop looks
like it could have existed in the Victorian era.
A hulking metal-rolling mill, acquired from a
factory in Sheield, once England’s cutlery-
making capital, dominates one corner. Grease
tattoos the hands of the three men who run
it. But James Ross-Harris, Jon Warshawsky,
and Richard Warner did not step out of some
Dickensian nightmare of yawning lames and
forced labor. They chose their métier mostly
because, well, it seemed fun.
“We were interested in the process more
than the knives themselves,” Ross-Harris
admits. “It was supposed to be mythically
hard.” He was already working as a blacksmith
when he became intrigued by what he had
heard about Damascus steel, a legendary com-
pound metal used in blades that have surfaces
etched in acid, imparting a complex pattern
of rippling waves. To his and Warshawsky’s
surprise, they got the component metals to
stick together on their irst try. To their even
greater surprise, they failed every time after
that. It would take them a year before they got
it to work again, but by then they were hooked
BARN THE SPOON IS NOT HAPPY TO SEE ME. A lannel-clad mountain of a man, he shakes my on the process. They quickly impressed some
hand warily at the urban farm where I’ve found him, before assuring me that he absolutely does well-known chefs with their new creations.
not have time to talk with me. He is about to ly to Sweden for a speaking engagement, and he has “We did a barbecue with [star Argentine chef ]
a class to prepare for, which—he turns to his assistant, who does a quick check—is completely full Francis Mallmann,” Ross-Harris recalls, “and
and therefore could not possibly admit another person even if only to observe. He also, he says, he came up to us afterwards and said, ‘I’ll take
nodding toward a tripod set up across from him, has a video to shoot. I prepare to slink off, duly the whole lot!’”
chastised for thinking that I might just waltz in and interview a man who carves spoons for a Joined by Warner, they’ve been making
living. Clearly I’ve underestimated what it means to be a craftsperson in London today. knives full time for four years now, and on a
What does it mean? It doesn’t take the existence of a subscription-based spoon-carving video good week turn out 30 blades. As I watch them
channel to know that craft is having a moment. There are artisans everywhere these days, and work, I’m struck by how much skill it requires
whether they’re making sour beer or wingtips, they all seem to be members of the same aesthetic to transform a chunk of steel into something
cult: rough-hewn apron, well-trimmed beard, carefully styled Instagram account. so precisely tapered
But in London, somehow, craft doesn’t feel so trendy, or at least not merely trendy. Maybe and subtly lexible,
James Ross-Harris
it’s because the city’s history as an important center for the handmade is still imprinted on its durable yet delicate.
holds an in-progress
geography, in street names like Threadneedle Street and Goldsmiths Row. Maybe it’s because 110 Just don’t call them
knife at Blenheim
livery companies—the city’s original trade associations—many of them centuries-old heirs to the Forge in London’s artists. “We’re manu-
medieval guild system, maintain a strong presence there, holding craft exhibitions, training new Peckham district. facturers,” Ross-
artisans, and in some cases even overseeing quality. Or maybe it’s due to the tenacity of craftspeo- Harris says. “We
ple today, thriving in the face of the rampant real estate development and skyrocketing housing make tools.” That might explain why he inds
prices that threaten to turn the capital into one big shiny shopping mall for bankers and oligarchs. it painful when their knives are acquired by
Handmade quality is ighting back against mass-produced quantity. And if you seek out the right people who like the idea of handmade more
neighborhoods, you can ind the artisans who are saving ancient London’s very soul. than they like the work of chopping and slic-
Three train stops from the 95-story skyscraper known as the Shard, the Peckham district’s ing. “They’re meant to be used,” he says. And
relatively reasonable rents draw artisans looking for work space among the neat houses and with that, he straps on a pair of protective ear
reggae-blasting tropical fruit markets. There, I find Blenheim Forge, wedged, like so many muffs and begins, like an ageless incarnation

of Vulcan, to grind the edge of a blade. berry blonde hair, and she has to shout over the handmade, with all the bells and whistles.” In
Like the knife makers, Andreas power saw’s whine to explain to the electrician fact, she says, that description applies to plenty
Hudelmayer seems to belong to another age, how she wants several fearsome-looking of the people seeking out artisanal products
though his surroundings couldn’t be more machines installed. these days. “A lot of people want something
modern. Located a few blocks away from Hartley has been working with metal in unique to them. They want to be able to say,
Blenheim Forge, his workshop is a banal white one form or another since high school. When a ‘No one else has this.’” They’re also willing to
box in a former parking garage. Now called friend whose bike had been stolen ofered to pay pay for that uniqueness. Hartley’s higher-end
Peckham Levels, the building consists of seven for her to take a course in bike building if she designs start upwards of $6,000.
neon-colored loors of work spaces for creative got to keep the end product, Hartley jumped at Yet the higher price of handmade can’t
types. It houses a yoga studio and food stalls, the chance. She found her calling. When she keep up with London’s rising rents, Hartley
and its rooftop deck ofers fantastic views of
the city. It makes an incongruously lively set-
ting for Hudelmayer’s meditative job, which
is to select blocks of wood and then cut, carve,
sand, stain, and tune them into violins.
Tall and serious-looking, Hudelmayer
chose his path while still in high school, as a London is returning to its crafted roots. Here’s where to find the best in
way to combine his love of music (he was then handmade wares, whether you’re looking for a new violin or a bespoke bicycle.
a good-but-not-professionally-good cellist) (Unless otherwise noted, workshops are open by appointment only.)
with his love of woodworking. “Pure wood-
work is something you can learn,” he says. “But 1. Barn the Spoon James Ross-Harris, by Peter Bellerby Daniel Heath’s col-
Measure, stir, Jon Warshawsky, are as much hand- lections of hand-
to make violins, you also need to listen with a
or serve using a and Richard Warner colored works of art drawn wallpaper,
musician’s ears, to be able to hear whether an wooden spoon create Japanese- as they are spherical featuring illustra-
instrument enables the musician to draw out carved by Barnaby style chef knives by maps. Commemo- tions inspired by
diferent colors.” Carder, aka “Barn hand at their South rate a single trip or sources both whim-
That romantic notion could be a sound bite the Spoon.” He also London forge. a lifetime of travel. sical (the circus) and
from the Golden Age of violin making (the late hosts spoon-carving From $210. From $1,590. geometric (art deco
17th and early 18th centuries), but Hudelmayer classes at his East blenheimforge.co.uk bellerbyandco.com architecture).
End workshop. From $130.
also speaks with real excitement about the
From $64. 4. Andreas 6. Tania Clarke Hall danielheath.co.uk
ways the craft has changed recently. barnthespoon.com Hudelmayer For bold jewelry
“It used to be very secretive, and so much Passions for wood- design, consult Tania 8. Kappacasein
of what you heard about violin making was 2. Hartley Cycles working and music Clarke Hall, who Dairy
as much myth as anything,” Hudelmayer Each steel bicycle intersect at Andreas works entirely with Bill Oglethorpe’s
explains. “But now you can do a CT scan of at Caren Hartley’s Hudelmayer’s leather. If you’re full-fat, unpasteur-
an instrument to learn how it works. And South West studio workshop in Cen- not in town during ized cheeses are
is made to order, tral London, where one of her biannual made in a copper
about 20 years ago
designed specifically it takes months to open studio events, vat using milk only
or so, people started for its rider and his make each violin, schedule a private hours old. Get a
Scenes from artisanal sharing information or her riding style. viola, or cello. meeting or a lesson. decadent raclette at
London. Left to right, online. It’s made for From $4,640. From $21,200. From $40. the Borough Market
from top left: jeweler hartleycycles.com hudelmayer.com taniaclarkehall.com stall or buy cheese
better instruments—
Tania Clarke Hall’s work- on Saturdays at the
maybe even ones that
bench; Barn the Spoon; 3. Blenheim Forge 5. Bellerby & Co. 7. Daniel Heath Bermondsey dairy.
are as good as the old
a Blenheim Forge knife; Self-taught black- Globemakers Add some intrigue kappacasein.com
violin maker Andreas ones. It’s the New
smiths and buddies Customized globes to your walls with —SARA BUTTON
Hudelmayer; cheese Golden Age of violin
from Kappacasein Dairy; making.”
wallpaper designer Hudelmayer’s
Daniel Heath; Spoons clientele consists
by Barn the Spoon; bike almost entirely of
maker Caren Hartley; professional musi- talks about it now, she sounds like Goldilocks: says, so few true artisans can aford to work in
Hudelmayer at work. cians. Caren Hartley, “With jewelry, it’s so small that I would get the center. She’s right, which is why someone
on the other hand, frustrated,” she explains, “and if it’s big, like a like Tania Clarke Hall knows how lucky she
appeals to a broader market with her bespoke sculpture, it gets cumbersome. But I really is. A jeweler who crafts exquisitely cut leather
LETTERING BY ERIKA STALLWORTH
bicycles. Located in an industrial park in enjoy the scale of bikes. They feel about right.” necklaces inspired by Maasai necklaces, she
Mitcham, a suburb in southwest London Size matters a lot to Hartley. She has made a works in a studio at Cockpit Arts, a center for
whose vast lavender ields were long ago name for herself in part by designing bikes for craftwork located a 15-minute walk from the
swallowed up by ironworks and cloth-printing shorter adults, especially women. Yet thanks to British Museum, which is about as central
factories, her new studio is still very much her bikes’ elegance and her careful attention to as you can get in London. Cockpit is a social
under construction when I visit. Dust speckles detail, they also draw, she says, “a lot of middle- enterprise funded by individuals and organiza-
Hartley’s black T-shirt, paint stains her straw- aged men who want something obviously tions—among them some of the livery compa-

nies, including the Leathersellers’ Company ing as a real estate dealer, decided to make his believes, stems in part from the blend of utility
and the Haberdashers’ Company—devoted to own. He might have underestimated what was and beauty. He considers each globe a work
keeping crafts alive. “The community matters,” involved. Simply learning to stretch paper of art. Like many of the other craftspeople
Clarke Hall says. “It feels good to know that onto the sphere would take him two years. The I spoke with, he believes that the current
you’re surrounded by other artisans who can project would ultimately require him to sell his revival of the handmade is a rebellion against
help when you need advice or just to borrow a car and then his house, but when he was done the mass-produced. “I can’t see the point of
tool. None of us could have aforded to work in he had not only a globe but also a new business. having a house full of
the city otherwise.” Cartographers help Bellerby design the things that have been
This page, from left:
Still, one of the pleasures of exploring maps, mark customized locations, and add a machine in the stamped out,” he
crafts in London is discovering the neighbor- illustrations—a small pyramid to commemo- Hartley Cycles work- says. “People want
hoods you might never otherwise visit. To ind rate a trip to Egypt, whales in the Atlantic for shop; Jeweler Tania fewer objects, and
Peter Bellerby’s studio, I walk through Stoke a Moby-Dick fan—at the customer’s request. Clarke Hall works they want them to
Newington in North London, a once-Hasidic, Then comes the tricky work of applying wet on a piece of leather. have meaning.”
now-trendy district where the streets are lined strips of lat map to the spheres, which are Opposite page: The desire for
with kosher butchers and organic bakeries. made from plaster of Paris. Once the paper Clarke Hall in her meaning, for a story,
I head down an alleyway and step into a dries, artists hand-color the oceans and con- studio at Cockpit Arts for a few good items
place that looks like a Renaissance geogra- tinents. Varnished, aixed with brass ittings, in Holborn. that say something to
pher’s workshop. Light streams through the and set into its holder, a inished globe takes or about their owner,
tall windows, illuminating wooden tables, anywhere from three weeks to six months to and in their creation process, about London
paintbrushes, and about two dozen workers make, depending on size. “You can’t make itself—all of that comes together when I inally
who hunch over globes of all sizes, engaged something like this unless you respect what get to speak with Barn the Spoon.
in something between science and alchemy. you’re making,” Bellerby says. “The thing I must have looked pretty dejected at that
Bellerby got his start making globes several about handmade is the love that goes into it.” irst encounter, because as I was preparing
years ago, when he looked for one as a gift for Bellerby’s workshop now turns out to slink off, he conceded he could probably
his father’s 80th birthday. But the modern between 600 and 700 globes a year, which is meet me on my last day in the city, so long as
globes he found didn’t meet his exacting stan- fairly remarkable considering how many of us I came to his shop in Hackney first thing in
dards, and the antique ones were lovely but far get our information about the world’s layout the morning. It turns out not to be a shop in
too expensive. Bellerby, who had been work- from our phones. But the demand, Bellerby the conventional sense, for there are no goods

This page, clockwise
from top left: a cheese-
maker at Kappacasein
Dairy; knives on display
at Blenheim Forge;
wallpaper designer
Daniel Heath in his
studio in the Hackney
Wick district; Barn the
Spoon at work in his
shop.

This page, clockwise
from top left: Supplies
in wallpaper designer
Daniel Heath’s studio;
James Ross-Harris
hammers a blade on
an anvil at Blenheim
Forge; two employees
build a stand for a
globe at Bellerby & Co.;
painting a Bellerby &
Co. globe.
on display for sale, just a block of wood and a because I felt like I had the moral high ground, have PowerPoint presentations to make and
handful of tools in a tiny, glass-fronted space. having stripped away so much, but I was lights to book.” He shakes his head. “Part of
Barn, whose full name is Barnaby Carder, sits almost aggressive about it. A spoon monk.” me wants to give up and go back to the woods.”
there several days a week, carving spoons. Working with green (recently cut) wood During this whole story, his hands have
His mood has brightened, and he laughs and carving traditional designs, the spoon never stopped moving. Over the course of
freely, periodically emitting a multisyllabic monk began to gather customers, media atten- our conversation, the block of cherrywood he
cackle—ha-ha-ha-HA—about the unlikely tion, and even the occasional acolyte. By 2012, started with has been transformed into a serv-
turns his life has taken. Although Carder grew he had enough business to open the shop. Now ing spoon, its handle beveled, its bowl curving
up comfortably and went to university, he people come to see him almost as if they’re on to a point. He’s not
abandoned plans to become a biology teacher pilgrimage. “I think they love that I just make entirely satisied with
This page, from
and apprenticed himself to a cabinetmaker. spoons, the bloody-mindedness of it,” he says it—the indentations
left: Bill Oglethorpe,
Soon after that, he made an even more dra- with another cackle. “It’s a couple of tools, a where the handle
chief cheesemaker
matic change. “I made myself homeless,” he man, a spoon. Doesn’t take much explaining.” at Kappacasein meets the bowl aren’t
says. “And became a tramp.” He also teaches courses, ilms instructional Dairy; a Kappacasein right, he says. But
Tramping meant going to live in the woods videos, and has written a book on the subject. employee checks the the onlooker outside,
half the year, with only the bare minimum of He started a woodworking school called the temperature of milk. who stopped to
clothing, a few tools, and no roof or walls. In Green Wood Guild and cofounded Spoon- Opposite page: watch Barn through
winter, he carved spoons and sold them, sitting fest, which bills itself as the “World’s Largest Peter Bellerby at his the window as he
outside on a town sidewalk. It was a hobby he Spoon-Carving Festival.” Tickets to this year’s globe studio. carved, doesn’t know
had started as a teenager. He liked the fact that four-day gathering sold out in 12 hours. that. The passerby
spoons are simple and functional, yet require By almost any measure, then, Carder has nods his approval, and then, like centuries
tremendous control and skill to make well. attained the artisan’s version of success. He of Londoners before him, continues down
“They’re like little sculptures,” he says. earns a living from his hands, making func- Hackney Road on his way into work.
He lived that way for three years. The sum- tional objects appreciated by a broad audience.
mers in the woods were among the happiest He is respected for his knowledge and skill. Contributing writer Lisa Abend wrote about
times of his life, but the winters were more And yet he’s not sure he’s happy. “When I lived Marrakech in the September/October 2017
complicated. “When I used to sit on pavement, in the woods, I had zero stress, paid zero rent, issue of AFAR. Photographer Harry Mitchell
I was a very angry person,” he recalls. “I liked it didn’t owe taxes. Now, I wake up stressed. I is profiled on page 16.

H A L P E R N
A S H L E A
BY
MAGNUM PHOTOS HA S shaped the

way we look at cities. Founded
in 1947 by five wartime photog-
raphers—Robert Capa, Henri
Cartier-Bresson, George Rodger,
David “Chim” Seymour, and
William Vandivert—the agency
represents photographers whose
work lies at the intersection
of reportage and fine art. Its
members take a poetic approach
to photojournalism, their work
distinguished by extraordinary
compositions, cinematic capture
of light, and painterly color. For
more than 70 years, Magnum
photographers have been creat-
ing images that invite viewers to
see the world in a new way. We
combed the Magnum archive to
surface a series of images shot in
cities by some of the collective’s
most famous photographers
and by members of the younger
generation who are leading
Magnum into the future.
GUEORGUI
PINKHASSOV
Beijing, 1993
In the early 1990s,
the Russia-born,
Paris-based photog-
rapher was commis-
sioned by the New
York Times Magazine
to photograph
China’s rising wave
of avant-garde
artists. “The places
I visited just blew
NEWSHA my mind,” says
TAVAKOLIAN Pinkhassov. “When
Tehran, 2013 I wasn’t working
Born in 1981, this on my assignment
self-taught with the artists, I
photojournalist would wander the
began shooting for streets and explore a
a women’s daily different world, with
newspaper in Tehran its habits, food, and
when she was just 16. traditions. Nowadays
She was the young- our lifestyles have
est photographer become alike, [but]
to cover the 1999 back then the differ-
student uprising in ence in cultures was
Iran, and by 2002, tremendous.” He was
she was covering the particularly taken by
war in Iraq. At the Beijing’s bike culture:
center of this image, “I liked the sound
taken in the Hejab of bicycles chirping.
Sport Complex, is Cars were still rare,
23-year-old Yasaman and the city streets
Karimi, a supporter would flow into one
of reformist candi- big bicycle stream.”
date Mohammad He found the locals
Reza Aref. “The to be open and
lighting and the friendly. “I could take
expressions on the pictures right in front
faces of this group of anybody, and they
of girls, who I had pretended I did not
never met before, exist,” says Pinkhas-
made it feel like a sov. Recently, he has
movie set,” recalls embraced Instagram,
Tavakolian. Born amassing more than
and raised in Tehran, 88,000 followers,
she has a love-hate and in April, he host-
relationship with the ed a five-day mobile
city. “For me, this phone photography
is home—with all workshop in—where
its complexity. My else?—Beijing.
pictures can turn out
with an abundance
of happiness as well
as an excruciating
amount of pain.”

DAVID ALAN an African American photography phy in 2017, Harvey baseball team prac-
family in Norfolk and magazine Burn, and said, “Cuba, for me, ticing in the city’s
HARVEY started document- published numer- wasn’t just a place 55,000-seat Estadio
Havana, 1998
ing their day-to-day ous books. In Cuba: to go because it was Latinoamericano.
When he was 11 years lives. The resulting Island at a Crossroad, cool. Everybody’s The visceral energy
old, San Francisco– images made up he captured both the gonna get a good illustrates Harvey’s
born, Virginia-raised his first book, Tell It economic hardship picture in Cuba, mantra: “Don’t
Harvey saved up Like It Is, published and the resilience of which makes it even shoot what it looks
money from his in 1968. Harvey has the locals under harder to actually get like. Shoot what it
newspaper route to since shot more than Fidel Castro’s totali- a really good picture, feels like.”
buy a used Leica 40 photo essays for tarian rule. Speaking right?” Here, Harvey
camera. By age 23, National Geographic, at the Annenberg captured Havana’s
he had moved in with founded the online Space for Photogra- storied Industriales

the Grand Palais, Paris, celebrated by a
HENRI CARTIER- En France. The retrospective exhibi-
BRESSON French-born Cartier- tion at the National
Paris, 1969 Bresson traveled far Library of France.
Magnum’s famed co- and wide throughout Cartier-Bresson
founder snapped this his career, photo- passed away at his
image at Hôtel Na- graphing Gandhi just home in Provence
tional des Invalides, hours before his in 2004, at the age
a veterans’ hospital 1948 assassination, of 95. Today, his
and cultural complex documenting po- work can be found in
in Paris’s seventh litical transitions in Paris at the Maison
arrondissement, China and Spain, and Européenne de la
when he was working capturing life inside Photographie and
on a yearlong book the USSR after the Musée Carnavalet.
project commis- start of the Cold War
sioned by Reader’s (the first Western
Digest. In 1970, the photographer per-
publication of Vive la mitted to do so). In
France was accom- 2003, the Fondation
panied by a photog- Henri Cartier-
raphy exhibition at Bresson launched in

MARTIN PARR
Tokyo, 2000
Hundreds of
varieties of cherry
blossom trees
bloom across Japan
during sakura-doki.
Viewing parties,
called hana-mi, are
held throughout
the country, but not
everything is as it
seems. “This is artifi-
cial cherry blossom,
which is all over the
shops and streets
during cherry blos-
som season,” says
British photographer
Martin Parr, who
produced this series
as a “counterpoint to
the usual obsession
with shooting real
blossoms.” A year
later, Parr released
the limited-edition
Cherry Blossom Time
in Tokyo, a hand-
bound book mount-
ed with 20 original
color photographs
of faux blossoms
shot in situ. Parr has
published more than
80 books to date and
served as president
of Magnum Photos
from 2014 to 2017.

images of early- actually in the back of Magnum’s first
HARRY ’80s Vegas and Los INGE MORATH of her trainer’s car, female photogra-
GRUYAERT Angeles with more New York City, 1957 headed home from phers, Morath joined
Las Vegas, 1982 muted and austere A Llama in Times the studio. “Viewed the agency in 1953
Contrasting color photos taken in Square is one of alone, it appears to after working as a
palettes and dra- Moscow in 1989, the most iconic have been a perfect researcher for Henri
matic light are signa- shortly before photographs ever example of being in Cartier-Bresson. In
tures of this Belgian the collapse of the taken in New York. the right place at just the years that fol-
photographer’s work. Soviet Union. According to John P. the right moment,” lowed, she traveled
Gruyaert sought Jacob, writer, curator, Jacob wrote in the extensively through-
out Caesars Palace and former direc- 2017 compendium out Europe, North
Hotel in Las Vegas tor of Inge Morath’s Magnum Contact Africa, the Middle
for “the absurdity estate, the Austrian- Sheets. “In fact, it East, and China, and
of its Gréco-Romain born photographer was the result of even photographed
architecture.” The first published this considerable work Mao Zedong’s bed-
photograph would image in a story and forethought. room. She continued
later be included about TV animals An appearance of shooting until two
in his two-volume for LIFE magazine. spontaneity, mask- weeks before her
Magnum publication Although the caption ing the reality of death in 2002, at the
East/West, which said that Linda the careful planning, age of 78.
paired dozens of Llama was in a taxi is one of the prime
Gruyaert’s splashy, on her way to a TV characteristics of
color-saturated appearance, she was Morath’s work.” One

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On June 4th, at our exclusive
Evenings AFAR Bermuda event,
we transformed New York’s Grand
Banks into a tropical paradise and
brought a taste of the “island life” to
Manhattan. Guests were immersed
in the culture and spirit of Bermuda—
with everything from Dark ‘N Stormies
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To celebrate Caribbean Week,

Ellen Asmodeo-Giglio, AFAR Executive
Vice President and Chief Revenue
Officer, and Barry Brown, AFAR Board
Director, hosted a vibrant cocktail
party at Ellen’s home on June 5th.
Friends and members of Caribbean
tourism and AFAR spent the evening
mingling over cocktails and hors
d’oeuvres, and left excited by the
Caribbean’s upcoming initiatives.
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just back from
Peru
Captivated by Cuzco
Sarah Buder, Editorial Assistant
As a backpacker a few years ago in Peru, our first day there, nostalgia swept over me as San Pedro Market, where, during my first trip,
I fell hard for the country. In March I returned we gathered in the Plaza de Armas, where a I had used my newly acquired Spanish skills
to lead a 10-day AFAR + Nikon “World in church and the cathedral frame the square’s to barter for a pair of shoes. I watched my fel-
Focus” photography trip. We visited many central fountain. Some members of our group low travelers try on alpaca wool sweaters and
of the same places I had explored on my joined me for a tour of my old haunts. We sample picarones (Peruvian doughnuts), just
first trip: We saw hundreds of people parade walked up Cuzco’s cobblestone alleyways, as I had years before.
through the streets of Lima during Holy passing colorful shops that sold woven cloths That night, our dinner table was abuzz
Week, met female weavers from the Sacred and hand-painted dishes. When we reached with conversations about the city’s maze-like
Valley’s indigenous Amaru community, and the San Blas neighborhood, I took them to streets and the traditional monteras (adorned
SARAH BUDER
watched the ruins of Machu Picchu emerge Green Point, which still served my favorite headpieces) local women wore. I now had
from a mass of fog. quinoa burger topped with a zesty sauce and a new memory of Cuzco I would cherish:
But I was most eager to revisit Cuzco. On flower petals. After lunch came the open-air sharing it.

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London

ACTIVITIES & DINING

6 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 PHOTOGRAPH BY DINA LITOVSKY

LIFEW ELLP LAN N ED .CO M

DAVID ALAN HARVEY/MAGNUM PHOTOS

8 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

A free pit stop: from 1 to 5 days

Free activities in 2 Belgian cities

Chicago, New York, 36 most beloved and its dynamic

10 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

Auto • Home • Rent • Cycle • Boat

FOUNDERS GREG SULLIVAN & JOE DIAZ

NEW YORK OFFICE SAN FRANCISCO OFFICE SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES

Our culinary secret? Chefs who love

That’s The JW Treatment.®

I my 60th birthday with a

Italy, takes in the hills

14 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

to win The War.

Sara Hylton Kathleen Squires Harry Mitchell Helen Rosner

16 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 PHOTOGRAPHS BY HARRY MITCHELL

everyone he knew belonged to one of these

I who worked as a magazine editor (no,

my oice, and we spent much of the summer

18 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

DIVE INTO NEW CULTURES WITH AZAMARA CLUB CRUISES®

Call 1.855.AZAMARA, your Travel Professional, or visit

PHOTOGRAPH BY KELSEY MCCLELLAN SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 AFAR 23

José Enrique Montes

Most diners probably don’t

INSET PHOTOS FROM TOP LEFT: FLASH PARKER, MEREDITH ANDREWS,

24 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 PHOTOGRAPH BY KELSEY MCCLELLAN

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 AFAR 27

3. St. Jane Chicago

28 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

6. Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills

4. Sagamore Pendry Baltimore

ferry terminal, and now, luxury

and two cannons found under

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 AFAR 29

MEXICO’S HOTTEST HOTEL ARRIVES IN ITS COOLEST CITY

LIVE AQUA HAS ARRIVED, MAKING SAN MIGUEL

32 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 PHOTOGRAPH BY KELSEY MCCLELLAN

PHOTOGRAPH BY KELSEY MCCLELLAN

FOOD HALL CRAWL

J. FUSCO FOR VISIT PHILADELPHIA, JEFF HERRON, COURTESY OF THE BOURSE

36 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 ILLUSTRATIONS BY DRUE WAGNER

With resort-wide room renovations and the addition of Fairway One

ELEVATING THE GUEST ROOM EXPERIENCE AT PEBBLE BEACH RESORTS.

HISTORY IN THE MAKING

TO FACE OUR PAST

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 AFAR 39

Earlier this year, Montgomery, Alabama, saw

40 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

this moment is temporary. But to the extent different future.

that people have tried to equivocate on the

What do you want people to not only think

2 the waterfront Malecón, lined with

FRENCH Whatever your Caribbean fantasy

44 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 ILLUSTRATION BY KEVIN WHIPPLE