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Among the Swamp People
Life in Alabama’s Mobile-Tensaw River Delta
WATT KEY
illustrations by KELAN MERCER
∞
The paper on which this book is printed meets the minimum require-
ments of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Perma-
nence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI Z39.48-1984.
Preface ix
Introduction 1
Discovery—Spring 1996 5
First Night 11
Camp Man 16
Crazy Dan 19
City People 22
Cloverleaf 31
Swamp Writer 37
Hurricane Georges 40
Man Tools 43
Water Hunter 46
Swamp Camp 50
The White Car 54
Carson 60
Homesick 63
Risks and Changes 67
Butch 70
The Trailer Park 73
Man Talk 78
Catching Alligators 81
Kitchen Music 85
Football 90
Late-Night Visitors 94
Chuckfee Revival 100
Neighbors 105
Deltona 500 108
Boats on the Loose 112
The Slough 116
The Boat Slip 120
Mayhall 122
Delta Heckler 125
Camp Names 130
Red 132
Horace 136
Bottle Creek 139
No-Name 144
Random Proud 147
Best Friends 150
Big Generator 153
The Dark Ages 159
Airboat 163
The Phone Call 168
Back to the Mud 171
The Deal 176
More Hurricanes 179
Stepping Out 182
Big Generator 2 185
Famous 188
Christmas Gift 192
End of an Era 196
Preface
The air was still cool with the tailings of spring and the sky was deep
blue. The river sparkled and flowed deep and healthy in its channel
through the marsh. I lay on my back on a raft of lashed telephone
pilings connected to a small jon boat. I wore nothing but some cutoffs
and a baseball cap pulled over my eyes while my friends pulled me
up the river. Sometimes, I’d roll over and hold up my hand. Someone
would drop a beer over the side of the boat and I’d pull it from the wa-
ter as it floated past. I don’t remember many times being more satis-
fied with who and where I was than at that moment on that raft. I was
going to build my swamp camp, stay there, and write about it.
1
2 WAT T KEY
ebb into the lower swamp. The rest of the time, they catch crappie and
bass and freshwater catfish and rarer species like the spoonbill.
Growing up I never thought of exploring that land north of the
causeway. To me it all turned to rivers at that point and I’d seen plenty
of rivers. Besides, I had enough water in front of me to go as far as
my little Stauter would travel. And it never occurred to me that a land
seemingly so bleak could hide such beauty and adventure.
The second adventure, woven into this narrative, is one of a nov-
elist. I started writing stories when I was a child. By the time I grad-
uated college I was determined to publish a novel with a traditional
publishing house, if not to become a full-time author. I had little
training, little encouragement, and little reason to believe it would
ever happen. Nonetheless, I set about it with a persistence and pace
that almost ruined me.
When this book opens I’m a twenty-five-year-old computer pro-
grammer living in Mobile, Alabama. I’ve already written four novels
and will write six more before the book closes. All of them unpub-
lished. The stereotypical scene of a frustrated novelist, rushing home
to the mailbox every day to collect rejection letters, describes much
of my life. I saw New York as a cold, hard wall, beyond which was
the mysterious world of publishing. For fifteen years I threw my writ-
ing at that wall, hoping to get something over. And hoping someone
would see it and find value in my creations. Until one day I had to
accept that life doesn’t always turn out like you imagined.
I certainly never imagined myself obsessed with constructing
a crude camp of driftwood, accessible only by small boat, five miles
deep into swamps of the Mobile-Tensaw Delta.
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of Holland should, by the powere of certain strange whirle-winds be
loosed from their ankers and transported in a moment to all the
desolat ports and havens throughout the world wherever the
dispersion was, to convey their breathren and tribes to the Holy Citty;
with other such like stuff. He was a merry drunken fellow.” It was the
age of Messianic dreams. Oppression had kindled the longing for
deliverance, and the Jews all over Europe were eagerly looking to
the advent of the Redeemer: an expectation which in the minds of
the untutored and the enthusiastic took strange shapes. But even
then there were Jews affected by other than Messianic chimeras.
In the Dutch synagogue which Evelyn visited on that Saturday in
August 1641, he may perhaps have seen a boy; a wide-eyed,
thoughtful little Hebrew of some nine years of age. Evelyn would
have fixed his intelligent gaze upon that child’s face, had he had any
means of divining that the diminutive Hebrew body before him
clothed a soul destined to open new doors of light to Christian
Europe. The boy was Baruch Spinoza, born on the 24th of
November, 1632, of parents who, for their faith, had given up wealth
and a happy home in sunny Spain, and had sought freedom on the
foggy shores of the North Sea. Rabbinical lore was young Spinoza’s
first study; mediaeval Hebrew wisdom, largely made up of Messianic
and Cabbalistic mists, his next; to be followed by the profane
philosophy of Descartes: altogether a singular blend of mental
nutriment, yet all assimilated and transformed by young Baruch’s
brain; a multitude of diverse guides, yet all leading the original mind
the same way—not quite their way. Study bred independent thought,
and independent thought translated itself into independent action.
Baruch ceased to frequent the synagogue; for the synagogue had
ceased to supply him with the food for which his soul craved. A bribe
of 1,000 florins a year was offered by the Rabbis, but
1656
was firmly rejected; excommunication followed, and
curses many and minute, not unaccompanied by an attempt at
assassination; but they were serenely disregarded. Baruch was not
Uriel. For answer he translated himself into Benedictus, and the
name was not a misnomer; for he was soon to become known as
one of the kindliest of men, as well as one of the deepest and
boldest of thinkers that our modern world has seen.
When the two goddesses appeared to Spinoza, as they do to
every one of us once in our lives: the one plump and proud and
persuasively fair, the other modest of look, reverent, and unadorned;
and they offered to the young Jew of Amsterdam the momentous
option of paths, he did not long hesitate in his choice. Turning his
back upon the world, and a deaf ear to its Siren songs of success,
he chose to earn a modest livelihood by making lenses. Too honest
to accept the Synagogue’s price for hypocrisy, he was too proud
even to accept the gifts of disinterested friendship and admiration,
and too fond of his freedom to accept even a professorial chair of
Philosophy. Like his great contemporary and compatriot Rembrandt,
Spinoza was incapable of complying with the world’s behests or of
adapting himself to its standards. The public did not inspire him, and
its applause left him profoundly unmoved. He scorned the smiles as
much as the frowns of Fortune, and calmly pursued his own path,
undaunted by obloquy, unseduced by temptation: a veritable
Socrates of a man, voluntarily and wholly devoted to the humble
service of Truth. In meditation he found his heart’s delight, and, while
grinding glasses for optical instruments in his solitary attic, he
excogitated other aids for the eye of man. A quiet pipe of tobacco, a
friendly chat with his landlord or his fellow-lodgers and their children,
and, when bent on more violent dissipation, a single-combat
between two spiders, or the antics of a foolish fly entangled in their
toils, furnished the cheerful ascetic with abundant diversion. On
those last occasions, his biographer tells us, “he would sometimes
break into laughter.” And having lived his own life,
1677
Spinoza died as those die whom the Olympians love:
in the meridian of manhood and intellectual vigour, leaving behind
him the memory of a blameless character to his friends, and the
fruits of a mighty genius to the world at large. For the goddess to
whom he had dedicated his whole life did not despise the sacrifice.
Every man who is born into this world is either a Greek or a Jew.
Spinoza was both. His teaching may be described as a recapitulation
of the world’s thought. Hellenic rationalism and Hebrew mysticism
found in his work an organic union. Briefly stated, the lesson which
the Jewish sage taught the Western mind, like all great lessons, was
a very simple one: that man is not the centre of creation; that the
universe is a bigger affair than the earth; and that man holds an
exceedingly small place even on this small atom of a planet. Old
Europe was gradually growing to the suspicion that one book did not
contain the whole of God’s truth between its covers—that it did not
constitute a final manifestation of the will of God. She was now to
hear, much to her astonishment and indignation, that the human race
did not engross the whole attention of Providence. It was an
elementary lesson enough; but it came as a revelation even to minds
like Lessing’s and Goethe’s. It was a salutary lesson, too; but it was
too new to be recognised as such. Man is a creature of conceit; the
Tractatus would teach him humility. Therefore, the Synagogue
anathematized it, Synodical wisdom condemned it, the States-
general interdicted it, the Catholic Church placed it upon the Index:
they all execrated it; none of them understood it. Posterity has
embraced it. To-day who would be a thinker must in mental attitude,
125
if not in doctrine, be a Spinozist.
CHAPTER XVII
At the further end of this Jewish quarter stood a little school for
Christian children, who learnt in it “swich maner doctrine as men
used there,” that is, “to singen and to rede.” Among these youthful
scholars was a widow’s son, “a litel clergeon, seven year of age,”
whom his mother had taught to kneel and pray before the Virgin’s
image. Day by day on his way to and from school, as he passed
through the Jewry, this Innocent used full merrily to sing “Alma
Redemptoris”:
But
The Jews took the hint, and conspired to chase this Innocent out
of the world. They hired a homicide, and, as the boy went by, this
cursed Jew seized him, cut his throat, and cast him into a pit.
The poor widow waited all night for her little child in vain, and as
soon as it was daylight she hastened to the school and elsewhere,
seeking it, until she heard that it had last been seen in the Jewry.
Half distracted with anguish and fear, she continued her search
among the accursed Jews, now calling on Christ’s mother for help,
now imploring every Jew she met to tell her if her child had passed
that way. They all answered and said no!
But Jesus, who loves to hear his praises sung by the mouth of
Innocence, directed her steps to the pit, and there, wondrous to
relate, she heard her child, with its throat cut from ear to ear, singing
lustily “Alma Redemptoris.”
“So loude, that al the place gan to ringe.”
The Christian folk, awestruck, sent for the Provost. The boy was
taken out of the pit, amid piteous lamentations, “singing his song
alway,” and was carried in procession to the Abbey, his mother
swooning by the bier. The Jews were punished for their crime “with
torment and with shameful death”; they were first drawn by wild
horses and afterwards hanged.
Meanwhile, this Innocent was borne to his grave, and when
sprinkled with holy water spoke and sang, “O Alma Redemptoris
mater!” The abbot, “who was a holy man as monks are, or else ought
to be,” began to adjure the child by the holy Trinity to tell him what
was the cause of its singing, “sith that thy throte is cut, to my
seminge?” The child answers: “‘My throte is cut unto my nekkeboon,’
and I should have died long ago. But Jesus Christ wills that his glory
last and be remembered. So I am permitted to sing ‘O Alma’ loud
and clear.”
He relates how Christ’s mother sweet, whom he had always
loved, came to him and, laying a grain upon his tongue, bade him
sing this anthem. Thereupon the holy monk, drawing out the boy’s
tongue, removed the grain, and forthwith the boy gave up the ghost
softly. The martyr’s “litel body sweet” was laid in a tomb of clear
marble.
The Prioresses Tale ends with an apostrophe to young Hugh of
Lincoln “sleyn also with cursed Jewes, as it is notable,” and a
request that he should pray for us “sinful folk unstable.” Amen.
Bishop Percy, in his Reliques of Ancient Poetry, has preserved
the Scottish ballad of The Jew’s Daughter, which turns on an
incident bearing a close resemblance to Chaucer’s tale, although it
seems to be based on the alleged murder at Trent, in 1475, of a boy
127
called Simon. The name of the victim, on the legend reaching
England, may quite easily have been changed into the familiar Hugh.
The Scottish version is as follows:
“argosies
Laden with riches, and exceeding store
Of Persian silks, of gold, and oriental pearl.”
He does not envy the Christian his fruitless faith, nor does he
see any virtue in poverty:
Round these two objects, “his girl and his gold,” all the emotions
of Barabas centre, and he is happy.
But, alas! Fortune is fickle. At the very moment when Barabas is
congratulating himself on his prosperity, calamity is at the door. A
Turkish fleet has arrived in the harbour to demand from the Knights
of Malta “the ten years’ tribute that remains unpaid.” At this
emergency the Knights hurriedly hold a consultation among
themselves, and, of course, decide that the Jews shall pay the debts
of their Christian masters. The scapegoats are summoned to the
senate-house, and the decision is announced to them, by one of the
Knights, who candidly tells Barabas:
It is in vain that the Hebrews plead poverty. They are told that
they must contribute their share to the welfare of the land in which
they are allowed to get their wealth. Nor will their share be the same
as that of the faithful. The Christians, in suffering them to live in their
country, commit a sin against their God, and the present distress is a
punishment for it:
He is stripped of all he had, his goods, his money, his ships, his
stores; and his mansion is converted into a nunnery. Nothing
remains to him but his life, and he is left to bewail his misery and to
curse its authors to his heart’s content. This he proceeds to do in the
following terms:
But she tells him that his house has been taken possession of by
nuns, and therefore he cannot get at his hidden treasure. On hearing
of this crowning calamity poor Barabas cries:
“My gold! my gold, and all my wealth is gone!”
accusing Heaven and the stars of their exceeding cruelty. But his
courage and cunning do not fail him even then. He rises to the height
of his misfortune and instructs his daughter to go to the Abbess of
the nunnery, and, by pretending that she wishes to be converted, to
obtain access to the treasure. Abigail, after much hesitation,
consents to play the part of hypocrite, and she plays it with
consummate skill and success. “The hopeless daughter of a hapless
Jew” goes to the holy lady and declares that, fearing that her father’s
afflictions proceed from sin or want of faith, she desires to pass away
her life in penitence. She is admitted to the sisterhood as a novice.
Barabas rails at her in simulated wrath, while secretly he gives her
some final instructions concerning the treasure, and parts with her
on the understanding that at midnight she will join him with the
hoard.
Vexed and tormented by the memories of his lost wealth, the
wretched Barabas roams the livelong night, sleepless and homeless,
haunting, like the ghost of a departed miser, the place where his
treasure is hid; and beseeching the God of Israel to direct Abigail’s
hand. At last she appears at a window aloft, and lets the bags fall.
Whereupon the Jew bursts forth into an ecstasy of joy:
“O my girl!
My gold, my fortune, my felicity.
O girl! O gold! O beauty! O my bliss!”
But his joy is short-lived. Before her death Abigail confessed the part
which she had unwillingly taken in the conspiracy that brought about
the mutual murder of the two young gentlemen. The friar who
received Abigail’s confession taxes Barabas with the crime. The Jew,
frightened, tries to save his life by feigned conversion. He promises
to do penance:
But though they hate the Turk, the Christians hate the Jew more
heartily still. They apprise the doomed general of Barabas’ plan, and
the latter is, literally, made to fall into the pit which he had dug for the
Turk. In his fury and despair the wretch confesses all his sins,
boasting of the stratagems by which he had meant to bring confusion
on them all, “damned Christian dogs and Turkish infidels” alike, and,
having cursed his fill, dies. The Knights exact reparation from the
Turks for the sack of the city, and thus the play ends in a triumph for
the Cross.
The Jew, as has been seen, does not become the villain of the
piece, until after he has been made the victim. But the audience is
supposed to execrate his villainy and laugh at his sufferings. The
author takes good care to disarm pity by painting the Jew in the
blackest and most ludicrous colours that he can find on his palette.
He endows him with a colossal nose and all the crimes under the
sun. Barabas’ cruelty to the poor is only equalled by his insolence to
the powerful. He is made to say that he “would for lucre’s sake have
sold his soul.” His contempt and hatred towards the Christians is
dwelt upon with reiterated emphasis:
And when the Turk had related some of his own exploits in the
fields of murder, deceit, and torture of Christians, the Jew sees in
him a brother: