Issey Miyake

Life

Born: 1938, Hiroshima Japan.
Was 7 when the atomic bomb was dropped Hiroshima.
He had dreams of becoming a dancer or artist.
Whilst looking through his sisters glamour magazines, he decided on
becoming a fashion designer because he admired the way clothes draped
the body to make a statement.
He was inspired by the fashion photographs of Richard Avendon, as
well as the images of Hiro and Andy Warhol.
In 1959 Miyake attended the prestigious Tama Art University in Tokyo,
majoring in graphic arts.
He showed his designs for the first time in a theatrical event called, "A
Poem in Cloth and Stone. This showing reflected his view of fashion as
art.
Miyake graduated from Tama in 1964, and the next year he moved to
Paris to learn the art of haute couture.
Opening of the Miyake Design Studio
In 1970 Miyake left New York to return to Tokyo where he founded the
Miyake Design Studio.
He stated: there was the air of possibility I began to think, I should start
something on my own I sensed something new happening on the street.
An innovator in textile science, he developed new techniques for making
clothes and experimented with different blends of fabric and textiles based
on traditional Japanese designs.
He brought some of his new pieces to Bloomingdale's, which gave him
exposure by offering him a small section of the store for his displays.
Miyake's global career took off when, in 1971, he showed his first
collection in Tokyo and then shortly thereafter in the new Japan House
Gallery in New York.
The true test of success was presenting a show in Paris, which he did for
the first time in 1973. It was an instant hit.
During his career, he would be consistently listed by French trade papers as
one of the top 10 designers.

Perfume
In 1992, Miyake entered the perfume market
with the launch of L'Eau d'Issey.
Critics praised the line of perfumes for its
clean, fresh, minimal scents.
The inspiration for Miyake's fragrances was
Japanese culture's emphasis on pure water
and bathing.
The perfume bottle's conical shape and
brushed-steel tip were based on the Eiffel
Tower, which Miyake had admired in Paris.
Miyake also released a line of body care
products, lotions, and creams.
Pleats Please
In 1993, fulfilling his wish and following five years
of research, Miyake launched his flagship design
concept: pleats.
His permanently pleated clothes were meant to be
functional, universal for the modern buyer, and
accessible to a wide market.
The pleats were made using Miyake's innovative
fabric technology. Single pieces of 100-percent
polyester fabric were cut and sewn two- to three-
times larger than the finished product.
The pieces were heat pressed between two sheets of
paper, a process that simultaneously created a
permanent pleat, in either a vertical, horizontal, or
zig-zag pattern, and created texture and form.
Offered in a variety of seasonal colors, the clothes
were light, flexible, and easy to care for.
The invention of A-POC
In 1999, Miyake, along with Fujiwara
developed a revolutionary process of
manufacturing shirts and dresses from a single
piece of cloth that required no sewing.
A-POC, which stands for "A Piece of Cloth,"
was co-created by textile engineer Fujiwara,
who used modern computers in conjunction
with traditional technology.
In the A-POC process, thread goes into the
loom and is woven by a machine programmed
by the computer. A continuous tube of fabric
emerges with the design of a garment already
printed on it and with the seams already sewn
together. The clothing then only has to be cut
along a faint outline on the fabric, which won't
fray or unravel.
Buyers can customize their garment by cutting
the sleeves, skirts, and necklines to their
desired length.
Biographical Timeline

1938 - Born in Hiroshima, Japan
1959 - 1964 - Tama Art University, B.A. (Graphic Design)
1965 - 1969 - Study at La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne,
assistant designer to Guy Laroche,Paris, assistant designer to
Givenchy, Paris, Designer to Geoffery Beene, New York
1970 - Established the Miyake Design Studio,Tokyo
1971 - Presented his first collection in New York.
1973 - Autum/Winter Collection Paris, since this year, collections have been
shown in Paris.
1988 - Started working on the "pleats" series
1993 - Launched the line "Pleats Please Issey Miyake
1998 - Presentation of the "A-POC"
2004 - Establisched the "Miyake Issey Foundation"
Timeline of Selected Works
1971 - Presented his first collection in New York.
1973 - Autum/Winter Collection Paris, since this year, collections have been
shown in Paris.
1977 - "Issey Miyake and a piece of cloth" exhibition, Seibu Art Museum, Tokyo
1979 - "East Meets West", show, at the International Design Conference in Aspen,
U.S.A.
1980 - Costumes for Maurice Bjart's ballet, "Casta Diva", performed at IRCAM,
Centre Pompidou, Paris, in collaboration with Tomio Mohri.
1985 - "Issey Miyake Bodyworks", exhibition, Victoria and Albert Museum,
London1990"Energies", exhibition, Stedelijk Museum,
Amsterdam1991Costume for "The Loss of Small Details", William Forsythe &
Frankfurter Ballet
1998-2000 - "Issey Miyake Making Things", exhibition, Fondation Cartier pour
l'art contemporain, Paris; ACE Gallery, New York; Museum of Contemporary
Art, Tokyo
2001 - "A-POC Making. Issey Miyake & Dai Fujiwara", exhibition, Vitra Design
Museum, Berlin
2005 - Big Bang, exhibition, Centre Pompidou, Paris



Eley Kishimoto are surface decorators.

Fundamentally striving to make the world a prettier place, Eley Kishimoto
create work that is clear in intention, executed simply, and with creative flair;
they do not succumb to trends and fads. Instead the vision is clear and in
the forefront, fashion is used as a platform to communicate with a wide and
varied audience.

From a partnership forged in the early 90's, Eley Kishimoto quickly gained
a reputation for incisive and intelligent print design with their work being
displayed on the catwalks of the world through work with Louis Vuitton,
Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, Alber Elbaz and Jil Sander, to name but
a few.

Eley Kishimoto are surface decorators.
Eley Kishimoto are surface decorators.
Eley Kishimoto are surface decorators.
Eley Kishimoto are surface decorators.
In the mid 90's the partnership moved into the fashion world with the launch
of their first womenswear collection; this proved to be such a success that
the company has produced collections ever since.

The principle activity is womenswear fashion, but Eley Kishimoto has
already worked with partners to offer footwear, hosiery, sunglasses, leather
belts, and various 'flash' collaborations, under the umbrella of womenswear
mainline.

In addition to this, numerous products such as wallpaper, furniture;
upholstered and printed, and furnishing fabrics, glassware, crockery have
been developed. And, the brand has also moved into areas usually
unorthodox to fashion designers; automotive, architecture, phone/computer
technology and packaging, and artist and gallery collaborations.




Eley Kishimoto are surface decorators.
Eley Kishimoto are surface decorators.
Sold internationally from London, Paris and Japan, it only seemed natural
that in 2007 a Japanese licensing partnership was established enabling the
brand to further broaden it's product offer. The addition of watch, jewellery,
bag and kimono lines heralded the start of infinite opportunities.
Between 2008 and 2009 Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto worked as
creative directors of French based fashion house Cacharel.
With so many strings to their creative bow it is easy to see how they have
gained their reputation as the patron saints of print.
This collaboration delivers a line that is bright, optimistic and fun using the
iconic Eley Kishimoto Flash print on some of the stars of Eastpaks
Authentic line: the Padded Pak R, Delegate, The One and Floyd Bag.

This project represents a cooperation with a world class design house
renowned for its creative flair & vision.
Eley Kishimoto was formed as a partnership in the early 90s and quickly
gained a reputation for incisive intelligent print design, with their work being
displayed on the catwalks of the world through work with Louis Vuitton,
Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, Alber Elbaz and Jil Sander, to name but
a few.


In the mid 90s the partnership moved into the fashion world with the launch
of their first womenswear collection; this proved to be such a success that
the company has produced collections ever since. The principle activity is
womenswear fashion, but Eley Kishimoto has already worked with partners
to offer footwear, hosiery, sunglasses, leather belts, and various flash
collaborations, under the umbrella of womenswear mainline.
Eley Kishimoto are surface decorators.
Missoni
Missoni is an Italian fashion house based in Varese. It is famous for its unique
knitwear, made from a variety of fabrics in colourful patterns. The company was
founded by Ottavio ("Tai") and Rosita Missoni in 1953.
Missoni
The name Missoni is inextricably tied to its signature striped and zigzag knits
whose colorful patterns evoke an optimistic, haute-hippie-by-way-of-Capri
lifestyle.

Though it's a global fashion brand, the company, which was founded by Ottavio
(known as Tai) and Rosita Missoni in 1953, is still a close-knitpardon the
punfamily-owned affair. (Its Web site lists the sporting accomplishments of a
16-year-old Tai in the company history.)

After the label's first showing in Paris in 1967, it was championed by Vogue
editor Diana Vreeland. Thanks to that influential push and the fact that the
house's trippy designs dovetailed neatly with the decade's groovy sensibility, the
seventies were Missoni's real launching pad.

After a brief stint with her own collection, Angela Missoni took the design reins
from her mother in 1997, expanding the range into nonknit items and a younger,
sexier look, coinciding with a resurgence in popularity for the brand. In short
order, Angela launched the secondary label M Missoni and a range of footwear.
Under her direction, the women's line has become a favorite of actresses like
Cameron Diaz, Demi Moore, and Drew Barrymore, who recently starred in an
ad campaign.

Missoni
Brothers Vittorio and Luca also entered the family business: the former as
company chairman and the latter as creative director of Missoni Uomo until
2007. (In 2008, Angela took over for Luca, adding the men's line to her
portfolio; for Angela, it was a return to menswear after a period designing
the collection in the late nineties.)

Rosita, meanwhile, focuses her attention on the label's popular Missoni
Home collection, which projects its kaleidoscopic vision onto everything
from blankets to teacups. Though the Missonis tend to be less press-hungry
than some of their Milanese counterparts, Angela's daughter Margherita has
become a regular on the international party circuit, acting as brand
ambassador.

The company recently signed with the Rezidor Hotel Group to widen its
lifestyle scope, with Hotel Missonis currently under way in Kuwait and
Edinburgh.

Missoni
Michael Aram
Michael Aram
Michael Aram is an American born artist who works primarily in metal.

Aram's work reflects humanity through the directness of the handmade
process, as each piece is lovingly made using age old traditional
techniques.

The artisan nature of the work imbues it with a soulful quality and an
energy, which Aram feels is only possible with work, which reflects the
hand of the maker. This energy is further enhanced by the tension of line,
form, and meaning that is characteristic of Aram's work. As extraordinary
objects, they cause us to pause and consider them, and therefore create a
sense of ritual and ceremony in their day to day use.

Bridging the gap between the artist and artisan is a hallmark of Michael
Aram's work. Whether in his narrative and figurative "signature" collection,
or in his more contemporary 'studio' line, each piece is entirely handmade
with no two examples ever exactly the same. The handmade quality of the
work allows it to shift beautifully between the realm of fine and decorative
art. This enduring melange of quality and originality sits comfortably at
home in contemporary as well as in more classical interiors.



Michael Aram
Appropriately, in Hindi, "aram" means "gently, with peace, with love and care".
Repeating this direction mantra-like to the craftsmen, Aram succeeds in making high
quality work, which is as much a personal statement, as its appeal is universal.
Rei Kawakubo
Rei Kawakubo

The Past and the Present:

Fashion Designer Rei Kawakubo, founder of Comme des Garcons, was born in
Tokyo in 1942. Being untrained as a fashion designer, but having studied fine
arts and literature, she conveys her ideas verbally to her patternmakers. After
graduation Kawakubo worked in a textile company and began working as a
freelance stylist in 1967.

In 1973, she established her own company, Comme des Garcons Co., Ltd in
Tokyo. Starting out with women's clothes, Kawakubo added a men's line in
1978. Two years later, she moved to Paris and presents her fashion lines there
each season. At the same time she opened up her first boutique in Paris.

Following her breakthrough in Paris, Comme des Garcons clothing was often
subject of exhibitions around the world.

Comme des Garcons specializes in anti-fashion, austere, sometimes
deconstructed garments, sometimes lacking a sleeve or other component. Her
garments are primarily in black, dark gray, and white, often worn with combat
boots.



Rei Kawakubo
Rei Kawakubo
Her designs have inspired many new designers like e.g.the Belgian Martin
Margiela and Ann Demeulemeester, as well as Austrian designer Helmut
Lang. The newest offspring of Kawakubo's fashion think tank is former
apprentice Junya Watanabe, who has recently attained much attention in the
fashion business.

Kawakubo is a member of the Chambre Syndicale du Pret-a-Porter.

Selected Products

* Comme des Garcons
* Comme des Garcons Homme (since 1978)
* Comme des Garcons Tricot (since 1981)
* Comme des Garcons Robe de Chambre (since 1981)
* Comme des Garcons Homme Deux (since 1987)
* Comme des Garcons Noir (since 1987)
* Comme des Garcons Shirt




Rei Kawakubo
Ownership
Rei Kawakubo is the first officer and owner of Comme des Garcons Ltd. She is said to
keep responsibility for all artistic and business issues in her company.

Performance
While in the early eighties Comme des Garcons achieved sales of $30 million in 150
Japanese shops alone. Although the recognition around the world was high when
Kawakubo left the Japanese islands, sales of exports still contribute only 10% to total
sales. Total sales by 1990 were at $100 million. Comme des Garcons clothing output is
said to outnumber the combined effort of Japanese competitors Yamamoto and Miyake
by far.

Distribution
By the late 80s Comme des Garcons operated more than 300 stores worldwide. A fourth
of these stores were located outside of Japan. There, only a small part of the Kawakubo
lines are available. Homme, Homme Deux, Tricot, and Robe de Chambre are lines
which are predominately created for the Japanese market. Different range segments are
shipped overseas, as well as different sizes. But also the prices vary around a third from
these demanded in Japan. The unique design of Comme des Garcons stores puts
Kawakubo's clothes emphatically into scene by avoiding all distracting elements. She
ensures a similar appearence in all outlets by working together with Japanese architect
Takao Kawasaki for years.




Rei Kawakubo
Production/ Licenses

After successfully entering the markets outside of Japan, Kawakubo also
started to manufacture abroad.
Production is concentrated in France avoiding trade barriers for Japanes
products and the volatility of the Yen in order to maintain competitiveness
with European designers.
Kawakubo resisted the temptation of licensing products other than fashion
for a long time.
Only the Italian furniture manufacturer Pallucco produces furniture in her
name for some years now.

Rei Kawakubo
ARMANI
ARMANI
Birth: July 11, 1934
Place of birth: Piacenza, Emilia-Romagna
Couture line: Armani

Giorgio Armani is one of the most celebrated fashion designers of the
industry. This Italian fashion designer has been famous for his contribution
to the fashion industry which is impeccable. Known for his clean and tabled
lines, he is particularly popular for his menswear. His well-cut and well-
designed suits were considered the best any designer could offer. His
creativity has progressed each season not changing drastically but evolving
each time with the change of trend.

Early life
Giorgio Armani was born on July 11, 1934 in Piacenza, Emilia-Romagna. He
initially was trained in medicine but soon realized his passion for
photography. In the year 1957 he was called up for national service. He then
worked in a department store, La Rinascente, as a window dresser. His
career in fashion started in 1961 when he worked as a designer for a well-
known fashion house Nino Cerruti. He worked there for almost a decade
after which he left to pursue freelance work. It was in the year 1974 when he
launched his own brand Armani with his partner Sergio Galeotti.


ARMANI
Promotions and success

Armani's brand had launched with the menswear collection in 1974. In the
following year he also launched the womeswear line.
Armani tasted international success when he started designing for
numerous Hollywood names especially Richard Gere for his title role in
American Gigolo in 1980.
Giorgio Armani has a large mansion on the small island of Antigua. An avid
lover of sports Armani is also the president of Olimpia Milano basketball
team.
An Inter Milan fan, he has twice designed suits for the England national
football team. He has been responsible for the suits worn by England's
Chelsea FC since August 2007.
He also designed the ceremonial Italian flag-bearers' outfits at the 2006
Winter Olympics Opening Ceremony in Turin.

ARMANI
Apart from these he has also achieved a couple of first in his designing
career:
Armani was among the first designers to ban models with a body mass index
(BMI) under 18
In January 2007 Armani became the first designer to broadcast a haute
couture fashion show live on the Internet.
Armani teamed up with Samsung to make the Giorgio Armani cell phone
He also won the CFDA International Award in 1983.
In 2001, Forbes named him the most successful Italian designer. He is also
involved with charity work. In 2002 he was appointed a Goodwill
Ambassador for the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees. He
has designed clothing for Bobby Shrivers and Bonos RED campaign. The
products are sold at Emporio Armani.
Brand and Clientele
The brand which evolved in the year 1974 has seen a major change in the
fashion fraternity and has been one of the contributors for the change. The
brand which started with menswear and womenswear has expanded its
reach to fragrance, shoes, handbag, wallet, eye gear, etc. The brand is
available in all the major shopping destinations and has clients globally.

Donna Karan the Designer

Donna Karan the Designer
Karans creations are all about accentuating the positive and playing down
the negative. Dubbed the "Queen of Draping" by those in the fashion
industry, her designs are made with real-life women in mind those that
may have a few lumps and bumps to hide but want to look sexy and stylish.

Built on comfort, Karan uses clever draping to mask figure imperfections but
still show some womanly curves. Although her flattering designs appeal to all
age groups, she is a favorite designer of the mature woman who wants
clever styling to play down her figure flaws, and who values comfort over
constriction.

Her body-conscious looks uses lots of layers, cleaver draping and pops of
color to lift an outfit. Although known for her love of black, Karan is also firm
supporter of red, which adds brightness to black and neutrals. Red is one of
the most flattering colors for women over 40. It is sexy, sophisticated and
uplifting and is one of the most versatile to wear
Donna Karan the Designer
Donna Karan the Designer
Creator of the DKNY label, (Donna Karan New York) Donna Karan was born
in Queens, New York, with parents who were both linked to the clothing
industry. Her father was a suit maker and he mother was a showroom
model. Karan studied at the Parson School of Design but after 2 years she
left and went on to work at Anna Klein, eventually becoming head of the
design team, and successor of the company after Kleins death in 1974.
The DKNY Label's Seven Easy Pieces
In 1985 Karan decided to go it alone and launched her own collection. She
create her own system of dressing which would take a woman from day to
night, to weekday to weekend. These worked around the premise of Seven
Easy Pieces, based around monochromatic mix and match separates,
which made her famous.
In 2001 her company, Donna Karan Inc was sold to the luxury goods
conglomerate LVMH for an estimated $643 million. Karan remains as chief
designer but now has more time on her hands to pursue other things, such
as her charity work.
Donna Karan the Designer
Donna Karans Philosophy
Karan has now been creating womens clothes for three decades. She is
very philosophical about women's fashion and is a firm believer in designing
clothes that as well as stylish, are comfortable to wear. She maintains that a
structured dress, which does not allow for movement, ages a woman. Whilst
structured architectural shapes are a hot item, they do restrict movement
and can be unkind to a less than perfect figure. She is a strong advocate of
playing with proportion, and lots of layers which add texture and can
camouflage a woman's "negatives."
Donna Karan Collection Fall Winter 2008-2009
Model Kate Moss fronted the photoshoot around an Orient Express theme
for the Donna Karan Fall Winter collection, full of feminine, romantic classic
easy pieces with a hint of East European decadence. The designs included
a sophisticated fall winter palette of berry-tones, olives, blacks and reds with
silk stain robes and toga-style draped jersey dresses, a cashmere tweed
cardigan jacket and dramatic black-and-silver cashmere brocade coat.
What sets Karan apart from other designers is her interesting take on the
fashion. More magazine's October 2008 article "Donna Karan, a woman of
sustance and style" reveals her attitude to clothes says Karan, Clothes
dont matter. Feeling good and feeling confident is what matters (most)