PRODUCT ANALYSIS AND

DEVELOPMENT

ASSIGNMENT 1

SUBMITTED BY-
HARSHITA TIWARI
KAARTHIKAYA
 GARMENT DETAILS
GARMENT CASUAL FLARED TROUSERS

CATEGORY WOMEN’S WEAR

SIZE Small

FIT Flared

WAIST High waisted

PANTONE COLOUR cyan

PANTONE CODE PANTONE 313 C

FABRIC Plain weave

CONSTRUCTION
BRAND Myx – by Amazon

NO.OF GARMENTS 2
PURCHASED
COST OF EACH Rs.600
COMPONENTS

Waistband
Dart Tie-up belt
Side Pocket
Belt loop

Pleats

Fly zipper

Flared Legs

ZOOMED
FRONT VIEW
VIEW BACK VIEW
S.NO Measurement (in inches)
1. Waist 28

2. Hip 36

3. Inseam 26

4. Out seam 38

5. Front Rise 13

6. Back Rise 15.5

7. Leg opening (width) 12

8. Fly length 8

9. Pleat Width 1.25

10. Dart Length(Back) 5

11. Pocket Opening 6

12. Pocket bag length 10 Trims and Accessories Coil zipper (fly zipper)
Steel Metal Hook (for closure)
Buckram (for waist band)

13. Belt width 2 Labels Brand label

Wash Care label
14. Belt length 68
Fabric Cotton – Linen Blend
15. Belt loop length 2.25 Weave Type Plain weave
TRIMS DETAILS-
• Zipper : • Hook :

Type- Steel eye hook

Size- 3/8 inch
Type- Coil Zipper
Placement – at centre of front
Colour – Teal Blue waistband
Length- 8 inches
Placement – As a fly zipper
Brand – YKK
Teeth Width- 3.9 mm
Size – 3#
 Brand label and price
Wash Care Label tag

Care Instructions-
• Machine Wash Warm
• Do not bleach
• Tumble Dry low
• Warm iron
• Wash dark colours separately
 PROPOSED TESTS
INTENDED USE- As a comfortable and breathable summer fashion garment

FIBRE COMPOSITION – BURNING TEST

EPI,PPI
GSM
YARN COUNT
YARN TYPE TEST – SPUN OR FILAMENT
TENSILE STRENGTH OF FABRIC
SEAM STRENGTH OF FABRIC
SPI
STABILITY TO WASHING
COLOUR FASTNESS (WASHING)
COLOUR FASTNESS (RUBBING)
COLOUR FASTNESS ( LIGHT)
PILLING
AIR PERMEABILITY (for comfort)
FABRIC WEAVE TYPE-

Plain Weave
 EPI and PPI -
5 samples of 1 inch by 1 inch was cut from the fabric and ironed. It was difficult to count no. of
yarns with the naked eye so warp yarns and weft yarns were pulled out and counted . Average of 5
sample were taken.

1 inch by 1 inch sample cut and Top- weft yarns

Yarns pulled with a tweezer
ironed Bottom- warp yarns
EPI- Taking average of the values of PPI- Taking average of the values of
each sample – 69,68,66,69,68 each sample – 36,35,37,36,36
EPI = 68 PPI = 36
2 PLY YARN
S-TWIST
 GSM-

• Cut a fabric sample of 10 cmX10 cm

• Measure the weight of that specimen (sample) in grams. Here we get fabric weight per 100 square-
centimeter.
• Convert fabric weight into grams per square meter. To calculate it multiply above weight by 100. This will be
GSM of the fabric.

10 cm
The weight of 10cm by 10 cm
fabric (100 sq.cm) is 1.14 grams.

10 So , the weight in grams of 1

cm square metre of fabric is 1.14 * 100
= 114 GSM

Fabric sample Weight of sample in

grams
YARN COUNT -
Suppose the warp count and weft count are equal
EPI = 68 , PPI=36
For a sample of 100 cm by 100 cm
Total ends = 68 * 39.3 ( 100 cm= 39.3 inches)
= 2672
Total picks = 36 * 39.3 = 1414
Total length of yarn = 100(2672)+ warp crimp + 100(1414) +weft crimp
Taking crimp % = 3%,
Total length of yarn = 4208 m

Weight of this length = 141 grams

Therefore weight for

1 m = 141/ 4208
For 1000 m =141/4208 * 1000
= 33.5 tex (grams per 1000 m)
 BURNING TEST-
• Cut a 2” long snippet off from fabric. Hold snippet in a pair of tweezers over the dish. With either a match or lighter,
the snippet should be put directly into the flame long enough for it to catch on fire.

Reaction of Fibers to the Burn Test

• Cotton-Is a cellulose fiber. It burns and may flare up when lit. No melted bead is left by it. After burning, it continues to glow. It
gives out a smell like that of a burning paper. The smoke is gray or white. The ash is fine and soft and can be easily crumbled..
• Linen (Flax)-A cellulose fiber, it takes longer to ignite. It is easily extinguished by blowing on it. Other properties are similar to
hemp and jute.
• Rayon-Is a manufactured cellulose fiber. It burns without flame or melting and may flare up.Unless there is a fabric finish, it
doesn't leave any bead. After the flame is removed, it may glow a bit longer than cotton. It smells like burning paper and leaves
soft, gray ash. It's smoke is a little hazardous
• Silk-Is a protein fiber which burns slowly and curls away from the flame. It leaves a dark bead which can be easily crushed. It is
self-extinguishing and leaves ash that is a dark, gritty, fine powder. It smells like burned hair or charred meat. It gives out little
or no smoke and the fume has no hazard.
• Wool-Is a protein fiber which burns slowly. It sizzles and curls away from flame and may curl back onto fingernail. It leaves
beads that are brittle, dark, and easily crushed. It is self-extinguishing and leaves harsh ash from crushed bead. It gives out a
strong odor of burning hair or feathers. It gives out dark smoke and moderate fume.
• Polyester-Is a polymer produced from coal, air, water, and petroleum products. It burns quickly and shrinks away from flame,
may also flare up. It leaves hard, dark, and round beads. After the flame, it burns slowly and is not always self-extinguishing. It
has a slightly sweet chemical odor. It leaves no ash but its black smoke and fume are hazardous.
BURN TEST

Does not fuse or shrink away

from the flame and burns
quickly without melting

Continues to burn without

after removal of flame.Burning
paper smell with white-greyish
ash

Leaves a grey fluffy ash

Ash is soft and crumbles

easily

RESULT : The fibres in the fabric maybe a cellulosic fibre –cotton or linen
 DIMENSION STABILITY-
Test Procedure
1.Detergent is put in washing machine. Detergent: 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent in amount 66 ± 1 g for m/c wash.
2. Washing temperature, water level, and washing time are set. Prepared sample and washing accompany are put in detergent, handled as
chosen washing program.
3. After fabrics are washed, you can choose one of the following 6 drying methods to dry it:
•Hanging dry
•Drip dry
•Flattened dry
•Flat pressing
•Tumbling drying
•Oven drying
4. Measurement and Calculation
Soaking, sample is flattened horizontally on table at a state of no tension. Under the condition that no any tension is applied to it, shrinkage
rate is measured directly by shrinkage scale; or scale is used to measure the length (accurate to 1mm) between 3 pairs of marks in warp and
weft direction of fabric, then take averages respectively and replace the data to the following formula to calculate fabric shrinkage rate:
Shrinkage rate = (the length of latitude and longitude before washing − the length of latitude and longitude after washing) ÷ the length of
latitude and longitude before washing

•
TENSILE STRENGTH-
Strip Test-
The strip test is a tensile test in which the full width of the test specimen is gripped in the tensile grip jaws of
a universal testing machine. During this test, tensile force is applied on the fabric specimen until it ruptures.

 5 samples for warp direction

 5 samples for weft direction
 First taken a sample of (60mmx300)mm
and then frayed down to
(50mmx300)mm

( Detailed Test methods and parameters are there in the document)

SEAM STRENGTH-

• Standard: ASTM D16883 -To determine sewn seam strength

• Sample: Five specimens are cut having a length of 270 mm on either side of the stitch line and a width of
100 mm parallel to the stitch line.
• Before testing the material is conditioned to standard temperature.
• The specimen is mounted on the tensile tester. It is operated until the sewn seam or fabric ruptures. The
observation is made whether the rupture is caused by Fabric yarn rupture, sewing thread rupture, sewn
seam yarn slippage or a combination of two or more of the foregoing. This will give the seam strength.
Seam strength ( gms/cm)= ( Individual specimen seam breaking force in gms)/ Width of specimen in Jaws
i.e. 2.5 cm.

( Detailed Test methods and parameters are there in the document)

COLOURFASTNESS TO RUBBING-
This test is designed to determine the degree of colour that may transfer from the coloured textiles
to other surfaces by rubbing.

• Apparatus used- Crockmeter

• Sample Preparation-
 5x5cm sample is taken and stiched to a monofibre having 40sx40s, 80x70 of cotton fiber.
The GSM of monofibre used is 115-120g, and whiteness index is 80-85.

Assessment of rubbing fastness:

• Ratings are assigned for the staining of the cotton cloths with the grey scale.
• In each warp-way and weft-way directions the fabric is tested for dry test and wet test.
• This scale consists of nine parts .
( Detailed Test methods and parameters are there in the document)
COLOURFASTNESS TEST TO WASHING-
Purpose:
The resistance of a material to change in any of its color characteristics, when subjected to washing is
called color fasntess to washing.
Standard:
ISO 105 C06
Sample:
1 observation of 10 * 4 cm swatch
Procedure:
In the test, change in color of the textile and also staining of color on the adjacent fabric are assessed.
A 10 x 4 cm swatch of the coloured fabric is taken and is sandwiched between two adjacent fabric and
stitched, The sample and the adjacent fabric are washed together.

( Detailed Test methods and parameters are there in the document)

COLOURFASTNESS TO LIGHT-
• Purpose:
The purpose of colour fastness to light test, is to determine how much colour will fade when
exposed to artificial light (xenon arc) which is representative of natural daylight.
• Apparatus:
Machine used: ATLAS ci3000+ Xenon fade-Ometer
• Sample size: 6x4 inch
• Procedure:
1. First the samples are conditioned to 65±2 RH humidity and 20±2°c temperature.
2. Then it is put inside the sample holder for certain time, humidity and temperature
according to the customer demand.
3. The humidity is usually kept at 40±5 RH and 30°c temperature.
4. After the process assessment to color fastness is done.

( Detailed Test methods and parameters are there in the document)

 PILLLING TEST-

Pilling is a fabric surface fault characterized by little pills of entangled fibres clinging to the surface. The
formation of fuzz and pills suspended on the fabric surface could affect the fabric aesthetics and its
ultimate acceptance by customers. A test to assess the property of pills that form and or can be
retained on the surface of a fabric when it is subjected to specified conditions is called pilling test.
APPARATUS- Martindale Tester

Procedure:
1. First the samples are conditioned to 65±2 RH humidity and 20±2°c temperature.
2. Then it is put inside the sample holder for certain time, humidity and temperature according to the
customer demand.
3. The humidity is usually kept at 40±5 RH and 30°c temperature.
4. After the process assessment to color fastness is done.

( Detailed Test methods and parameters are there in the document)

 The assessment is made by assigning ratings against the standard pilling fabric.
 It has a range from 5-1.
 5 mean best and 1 means worst.
AIR PERMEABILITY TEST
• Purpose:
Air permeability measures breathability of fabric which directly affects the thermal insulation and
comfort of clothing. It is important for a garment intended to be used in summers to be comfortable
and breathable to be worn in such weather.
• Apparatus:
Shirley air permeability tester is widely used for fabric air permeability testing.
• Sample and no.of observations:
Sample size of area 5.7 cm square.
10 observations of test required.

( Detailed Test methods and parameters are there in the document)