ENERGY EFFICIENCY IN ARCHITECTURE

SOLARIUM
&
ISOLATED HEAT GAIN
SOLARIUM (Sunspaces)
In architecture, any room that is exposed to the sun. While
the term may also be applied to the open sun porches or
apartments on the roofs of ancient Greek or Roman houses,
it is now used especially to designate a room that is
enclosed in glass. In such a solarium, three or possibly four
walls and sometimes even the ceiling may all be of glass.
Often the solarium is a feature of a hospital or sanitarium, a
room in which patients may be exposed to sunlight in a
controlled environment as part of their therapy.
 
· Addition to exterior of house or somewhat nestled inside
some area of the house
· Can be at ground level or below ground level (pit
sunspace- below frost line). Good because relatively
constant temps due to the surrounding earth.

In short, a sunspace can be defined as a space completely

made of glass , much similar to a greenhouse which has the
same function-letting in sunlight . The only difference is
that a SOLARIUM has curved roof on one side. 2
FUNCTIONS OF A SOLARIUM
HEATING
Sunlight enters the sunspace through a south-facing façade of glass or
plastic and is this incoming radiation takes the form of heat. Sunspaces are
just a means of collecting the heat. Different means of storing and
distributing the heat include:

OPENWALL 
There is no separation between the sunspace and the living space within the
house. The warmed air is allowed to move freely to heat the living and the
sun space. Some of the heat can also be absorbed and stored in the floor
slab (usually concrete) or other storage components within both spaces.
However, the main disadvantage is that the temp of the sunspace must be
maintained at the same level as that of the other spaces. This means that at
night and during cloudy days, heat will be escaping from the sunspace and
additional active heating systems will be needed. Also shading becomes
important to reduce glare as direct sunlight enters the room. To prevent this
loss of heat, high performance glazing should be used for the sunspace. In
mild to moderate climates, double pane low-e glass should be used. In
colder climates, low-e glass with a possible gas layer between the panes
(argon or krypton). In more extreme climates or for greater efficiency,
glazing with suspended films or movable insulation may be used. 3
• DIRECT GAIN
Similar to the open wall system, but with a shared wall separating the
sunspace from the living space. This is beneficial because it eliminates
the need to actively heat the sunspace at night and during cloudy days.
These shared walls are typically double glazed glass or plastic panels
that can open to facilitate the sharing of heat between the sunspace and
the living spaces. When these panels are closed, the sunspace acts more
as a thermal buffer for reducing the temperature difference between
outside and in. It is also possible to utilize heavy drapes to cover the
glass shared wall at night, or more effectively to place movable
insulation on the façade of the sunspace itself to prevent the loss of
heat.
· THERMAL STORAGE WALLS 
The shared wall between the sunspace and the living space is a thermal
mass. The wall absorbs incoming solar radiation and stores it during
the day. Then at night,it reradiates the heat it has stored to the living
space as well as the sunspace. The efficiency of this system is greatly
improved with the use of glazing or movable insulation on the exterior
façade of the sunspace. It is also possible to combine the convective
scheme with the use of a thermal wall to combine heating with
ventilation.
4
 
· CONVECTIVE AIR FLOW 
Similar to the direct gain system, except that in this scheme the shared wall has vents at both the
top and the bottom to allow for air to circulate through the sunspace picking up heat and moving
into the living space to release the heat. This air circulation is completely passive and relies on the
different densities of warm and cool air to cause this convection. The air warmed in the sunspace
rises and flows out through the upper vent which causes cooler air from the living space to flow
into the sunspace through the lower vents. The incoming radiation heats this air and the cycle
continues. At night or during cloudy days when you want to prevent the warmer indoor air from
escaping, both upper and lower vents would be closed manually or automatically.

 
COOLING
During the summer, sunspaces tend to overheat and are
occasionally the source of unwanted heat gain to the house. To
prevent this, shading devices such as louvers, overhangs, trees,
and movable insulation can be used to prevent solar radiation
from penetrating into the sunspace. To further cool the
sunspace, it would be possible to open upper and lower vents in
the façade of the sunspace to encourage airflow through the
space.
5
DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS-SOLARIUM
SUNSPACE CONSTRUCTION
Ironically, one of the most important aspects of using solar
energy in your home is assuring that you don’t let too much
solar energy into your home during the summer. This is
most critical on your south facing windows. Like the
ancient Anasazi, you need to use overhangs to keep out the
summer sun while letting in the winter sun.
In Chennai,rajasthan etc you’ll want to keep out the sun’s
heat year-round. You can use large overhangs, but the
simpler approach would be to shade your south facing
windows with shrubs or trees.
The opposite is true in jammu and kashmir, where you want
no overhang or shading at all—you need all the solar heat
you can get!
jammu and other cold climates are also the only locations
where you would want to leave your east and west facing
windows unshaded. The summer sun, which actually rises
in the northeast and sets in the northwest, blasts solar
energy into the east and west sides of your home. This is
especially noticeable near sunset, after your home has
grown warm throughout the long summer day. 6
A properly designed sunspace can provide a bright and useful alternative to the typical space
within a house. It also functions as a solar heater, augmenting the home's winter need for space
heating. There are two basic considerations for optimizing the solar heating potential of a
sunspace:
Directional orientation and the Angle of the glazing. 
DIRECTIONAL ORIENTATION
In general, a south-facing orientation, within 30° east or west of true south, will provide around
90% of the maximum static solar collection potential. The optimum directional orientation will
depend on site specific factors that may determine where a sunspace can be located and on local
landscape features such as trees, hills, or other buildings that may shade the sunspace during
certain times of the day. 

ANGLE OF GLAZING
The angle of the sunspace glazing is the next most important consideration for solar heat gain
and the overall performance of the sunspace. Sunlight most efficiently passes through glazing
positioned at a right angle to the sun's rays. The angle that will be optimal for collecting sunlight
during the heating season will depend on the climate, latitude, and the desired amount of solar
heat gain in the sunspace. The angle for maximum winter heating is roughly 10° to 15° steeper
than the site latitude. For example, the slope of sunspace glazing in Syracuse, New York, at 43°
North latitude, would range from 53° to 58° from the horizontal. 

7
There are a number of issues that should be considered for selecting the "optimum" angle. 

• glass and plastic have little structural strength.

When installed vertically, glass bears its own weight.
This is because only a small area (the top edge of the
glazing) is subject to gravity. As the glass tilts off the
vertical axis, however, an increased area of the
glazing has to bear the force of gravity.
•Another common problem with sloped glazing is its
increased exposure to the weather. Hail, sleet, snow,
and wind also may cause material failure. For
occupant safety, regulatory agencies usually require
sloped glass to be made of safety glass, laminated. 
•It is also difficult to control solar heat gain in a
sunspace with sloped glazing during the summer and
even during the middle of a mild and sunny winter
day. Therefore, vertical glazing is the overall best
option for sunspaces.
•Vertical glazing accepts almost as much winter solar
heat as sloped glazing, without most of its
disadvantages.

8
The measurements that SOLARIUM requires for most projects are:

Length: The distance from one gable end to the other. For projects placed on a pony wall, we
want the distance from plywood (or shiplap sheeting) to plywood. For projects without a pony
wall, we want the distance from the outside of the 2 x 6 ledge that the solarium mounts onto.
Rafter Projection: The horizontal distance from the ridge connection to the plywood sheeting
on the pony wall. This is the horizontal length of the rafters.
Height at Ridge: The distance from the top of the pony wall, or 2 x 6 ledge, to the top of the
ridge ledge.
Gable End Projection: The distance from the exterior wall of the house to the sheeting
plywood on the front pony wall. This distance must be checked for both gable ends.
Pony Wall Height: The distance from the floor to the top of the pony wall. This distance must
be checked at both sides of all door openings.
Square of Plan: Check to ensure that the diagonal distance from corner to corner of the pony
wall, or 2 x 6 ledge, is equal, plus or minus ¼ inch (6mm).
Ridge: If the solarium ridge is to be connected to the building fascia board, check the size of
the fascia and structural soundness. Note: Solarium will allow for mounting a 2 x 4 ledge
between the solarium frame and the building. This ledge is generally covered in flashing and
painted to match – this is done on site and supplied by the installer.
Gable Ends: 2 x 8 framing against the house wall is required to provide a weather-tight seal.
This framing is generally covered in flashing and painted to match – and is also done on site
and supplied by the installer.
9
SOLARIUM FOUNDATION

10
WINDOW AND DOOR DETAILS

11
SOLARIUM - GREENHOUSE
Sunspaces may often be called and look
a lot like "greenhouses." However, a
greenhouse is designed to grow plants
while a sunspace is designed to provide
heat and aesthetics to a home.
Many elements of a greenhouse design
that are optimized for growing plants,
such as overhead and sloped glazing, are
counterproductive to an efficient
sunspace.
Moisture-related mold and mildew,
insects, and dust inherent to gardening in
a greenhouse are not especially
compatible with a comfortable and
healthy living space.
Also, it is difficult to shade sloped glass
to avoid overheating, while vertical glass
can be shaded by a properly
sized overhang.

12
 SITING
A sunspace facing south. Because solar south is ideal, but 30
degrees east or west of due south is acceptable. If your project is a
retrofit parts, consider how the new addition will look at the
southern side of the house. If the south side facing the street, the
design must be well integrated in the home country to avoid a
“tacked-on” look. And you have to protect your family’s privacy. If
the south side of the house faces the backyard, privacy may be less
of an issue.
When the sun is low in the sky in winter, any restriction of 10 feet
(3 meters) high within 15 feet (4.6 meters), in the south windows is
likely to block solar heat. If sunspace be shaded only in the early
morning or late afternoon, there is no greater cause for concern.
However, it is important that the room receives direct sunlight
between 10:00 and 3:00 You shall not plant trees near the south
windows, and seriously consider removing existing trees from the
area. Contrary to previous opinion, even deciduous trees that lose
their leaves in winter are able to block the sun. Indeed, a mature,
A few of the ways to attach a well-deciduous tree will display more than 40% of winter sunlight
SOLARIUM to a house. passes through its branch structure.

13
 In northern latitudes, the sun is much lower in the sky in
the winter than in the summer. For this reason, vertical
glazing receives much more solar gain in the coldest part
of the year. Sloped glazing takes in the most solar
radiation in the summer.
HEAT DISTRIBUTION
Warm air is blown through ductwork to other living
areas. It can also move passively from sunspace into the
house through doors, vents or open windows between
sunspace and interior accommodations. Strategically placed openings in the common wall may
distribute heated air from sunspace to the house with “thermosiphoning” circulation of air. In a
thermosiphon, warm air rises in sunspace and passes into the adjacent compartment through an
opening and cold air from the adjacent compartment is drawn into the sunspace to be heated.

The minimum opening shall be approximately 8 square feet (0.7 square meters) per 100 square
feet (9.3 square meters) of glazing area. If the design calls for two openings, one high in
sunspace and a low minimum area of each opening is approximately 2.5 square feet (0.2 square
meters) per 100 square feet (9.3 square meters) of glass panes, with 8 vertical feet (2.4 meters )
of separation. Again, these are rules of thumb to be refined by computer modeling and confirmed
by local experts. An uninsulated masonry wall between the house and sunspace will also transfer
some heat to the living space by conduction.
14
 Sunspaces incorporate thermal mass to absorb solar heat. Solar-
heated air can then be used to heat the house, either passively
through openings in the common wall or by blowing through
ductwork into other parts of the house.

GLAZING: SLOPED OR VERTICAL?

Although the sloped glazing collect more heat during the
winter, many designers prefer vertical glazing or a combination
of vertical and sloped glazing. Sloped glazing loses
more heat at night and can lead to overheating in warmer
weather. Vertical glazing for maximum gain in the winter when
the angle of the sun is low and less heat gain as the sun rises
from its summer Zenith. A well-designed overhang may be all
that is needed to shade the windows in summer. Compared with
sloped glazing, vertical glazing is cheaper, easier to install
and insulation, and less prone to leaking, fogging, breaking,
and other glazing failures. Vertical glazing is often more
aesthetically compatible with the design of existing dwellings.

15
CASE STUDY
Sustainable Recreation Center and Garden Designed for Delhi, India in 2012

Developed in NCR, this innovative new recreation center and solarium will soon find a spot in the
heart of Delhi, India. Slated to open in 2012, the new structure showcases a variety of eco-
friendly, sustainable building strategies. Mumbai-based architecture firm Prem Nath &
Associates have conceptualized an environment in which outdoor activity is possible throughout
the year. Featuring a flowing form totaling 1 million square feet, the solarium is a multi-use
destination complete with a farm, gymnasium, pool, aquatics center, library, and track, all topped
off with solar panels, a greywater system, and passive cooling/heating design.
16
Built for a private client on five acres of land, the structure adheres to high technical standards,
while simultaneously incorporating a green design that could provide a luxurious environment
both indoors and out. The entire structure is formed from glass and aluminum sections. Double-
glazed low-e glass is held in place with high-strength horizontal fiber glass tendons and
aluminum structural members. The clean construction gives way to an equally streamlined
interior that is rendered clutter-free. The indoor temperature is regulated to meet both human
comfort and to optimize conditions for plant growth.

17
The building’s aluminum frame was designed
to make the structure homogenous,
lightweight and structurally
stable. Photovoltaic solar panels work with
the building’s low-e glass to control
temperature and reduce energy use, and
rotating louvers on the roof help bring ample
fresh air indoors. Meanwhile, motion sensors
and LUX intensity meter sensors control
lighting for efficient energy consumption.

Landscaping forms a core feature of the

project, and irrigation requirements are
partially met using recycled water. The high
gloss aluminum finish, the envelope of green
landscape, the manicured lawns and the local
tree plantations keep the privacy intact. Trees
and other features have been illuminated with
floor and trunk mounted lighters, concealed
cleverly for glare free lighting, and there are
various themed indoor gardens with fruit tree
plantations, sculptures, and pathways curbed
with flowering plants. 18
ISOLATED SOLAR GAIN

•Isolated gain involves utilizing solar energy to passively move heat from or to the living space
using a fluid, such as water or air by natural convection or forced convection.
•Heat gain can occur through a sunspace, solarium or solar closet.
•These areas may also be employed usefully as a greenhouse or drying cabinet.

•Cool air enters from •Sunlight is converted to heat energy and •Heated air rises into
the lower level of the •Raises the thermal mass and air temperature. the main living space.
house.
PASSIVE GAIN VS DIRECT GAIN

•This style of passive solar design has proven to lower heating costs and add valuable space to
any building.
• By using a carefully measured amount of South facing glass, thermal mass and shading to
control heat gain, you can add a truly sustainable feature to an existing home or include it into
the plans for a new, energy efficient home.
• While all passive solar designs experience moderate temperature swings during different
weather conditions and seasons, an isolated gain system does not directly expose the occupant to
these temperature fluctuations.
•With direct gain designs, the occupant lives inside of the passive collector and can not escape
the thermal changes.
•While some of us can get used to these comfort dynamics, many homeowners will rely on
auxiliary heat to maintain a minimum air temperature.
• This leads to overheating during sunny days and increases the use of fossil fuels.
ADVANTAGES
•An isolated system allows you to bask in the warmth, when you want to, or to retreat to your
living room if the sunroom feels chilly.
• When properly designed, this type of design will provide a space for growing plants, exercising,
napping in the winter sun, indoor picnics, summer breakfasts or weather watching.
•They can also provide a substantial amount of free heat to the rest of your home.
•In moderate climates, this type of room can be kept cool using natural ventilation and proper
shading. By opening windows at night, the thermal mass is cooled and will absorb much of the
heat gain for the following day .

EFFECTIVE SOLUTIONS
•An equator-side sun room may have its exterior windows higher than the windows between the
sun room and the interior living space, to allow the low winter sun to penetrate to the cold side of
adjacent rooms.
•Glass placement and overhangs prevent solar gain during the summer. 
Earth cooling tubes or other passive cooling techniques can keep a solarium cool in the summer.
As solar heated air rises, it displaces cooler air that then returns to the sunroom to retrieve more
energy. This natural ‘thermosyphon’ process can be controlled with carefully placed openings or
simple ductwork. Ceiling fans can help to mix the circulating air and will also improve the heat
transfer into the thermal storage mass. Storage mass is required to control the room temperature
and store heat energy for the evening hours.
 
 •Natural heat transfer can be accomplished with careful placement of
openings.
• This must be part of the SOLAR DESIGN, along with window sizing,
overhang widths and thermal mass volume.

Heated air
flows to the
upper level

Cooler air The sunspace pulls cooler air from the lower
enters from level and heats it with solar energy. The
lower level warmed air rises to the second floor and
pushes slightly cooler air back to the lower
level and begins the process again.

•The indoor temperatures of an isolated gain space will fluctuate.

• While this is not a problem for plants, humans tend to be most comfortable at an indoor
temperature between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
• As with radiant floor heat, the thermal mass floor of the space is warm and occupants can still
feel comfortable at much lower air temperatures.
 •Dark Blue: Outside
temperature
Yellow: solar gain
• Red: Solar room
temperature .
Green: Inside
temperature

•Location: Bozeman,
Montana
•September 28, 2009 to
October 28, 2009

•The chart shows temperature swings from the passive solar home, shown above.
•the outdoor highs ranged from 82 to 25 *F with lows between 50 and 10 (burr). The
sunroom temps ranged from 78 to 61 degrees, with living space temps between 68 and 74
degrees Fahrenheit.
•Note the response of the passive system in relation to solar radiation.
•Auxiliary heat was turned on for the season on October 6th.
•Before that time, nighttime cooling effect was used to offset the unseasonably high
temperatures for September in Montana.
• Record highs were recorded during a time when the fixed shading was designed to allow more
sunlight and energy into the building.
•This is a very good reason to have moveable insulation or shading in any passive solar design.
•While thermal mass absorbs a predicted amount of daily heat gain, it is not a user adjustable
component to a passive solar home.
•We need to rely on ventilation to remove unwanted heat or shading to decrease the amount of
energy that enters your passive solar, to manage unseasonable weather events.
HOW A SUNSPACE PROVIDES ISOLATED SOLAR GAIN?

•The most common isolated-gain passive solar home design is

a sunspace.
•A sunspace—also known as a solar room or solarium—can
be built as part of a new home or as an addition to an existing
one.

APPLICATION
•The simplest and most reliable sunspace design is to install
vertical windows with no overhead glazing. Sunspaces may
experience high heat gain and high heat loss through their
abundance of glazing.
•The temperature variations caused by the heat losses and gains
can be moderated by thermal mass and low-emissivity windows..
•The thermal masses that can be used include a masonry floor, a masonry wall bordering the
house, or water containers.
•The distribution of heat to the house can be accomplished through ceiling and floor level vents,
windows, doors, or fans.
•Most homeowners and builders also separate the sunspace from the home with doors and/or
windows so that home comfort isn't overly affected by the sunspace's temperature variations.
BY

AISHWARYA GOVIND 20089902

SOWMYA DEVVI K.T. 20089957 26