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If you’ve been searching for the best ways to fade hyperpigmentation, we don’t have to tell you that the options are overwhelming: There are approximately two zillion dark spot treatments on the skin care scene. So how are you supposed to know which ones are worth your money and time?
You’re not, but dermatologists are, which is why we reached out to several of them for you. Why do you have hyperpigmentation to begin with? What ingredients should you look for? And most importantly, which specific skin care products and in-office treatments actually work to get rid of dark spots? To answer these questions and more, SELF asked some of our favorite derms how they treat hyperpigmentation in their practices.
To be clear, it’s a common condition that’s usually harmless (in other words, you don’t need to do anything about it). But if you’d rather it go away or at least fade, we get it—and we’ve got you. Below, we dive into everything you need to know about dark spots, including what they are, exactly, and the most effective ways to treat them.
What causes dark spots to show up?
“Hyperpigmentation is due to the overproduction of melanin in the skin by melanocytes,” Melissa Doft, MD, a plastic surgeon based in New York City, tells SELF. This extra melanin (the pigment molecules that determine your skin and hair color) can be triggered by a lot of different things, Dr. Doft explains: “Hormones like estrogen and progesterone can trigger melanin production—why some pregnant women develop dark spots known as melasma; the sun can increase melanin levels—why many of us have more ‘sun spots’ after the summer; and age can make melanocytes larger—why we see dark age spots in older patients.”
Hyperpigmentation can also occur as a result of inflammation, Brendan Camp, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology in New York City, tells SELF. “A classic example is a dark spot that develops after a pimple heals, which is sometimes referred to as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” Dr. Camp explains. Injuries like burns and bug bites can also cause skin to darken, he says.
Okay, now that you know where dark spots come from, here’s how to fade them.
1. Vitamin C
Think beyond citrus fruits: Vitamin C can be used as a topical antioxidant that helps to block free radicals from causing oxidative damage to the skin (which can lead to wrinkles, fine lines, and a dull complexion). “It also inhibits enzymatic processes that produce melanin, so it can help to reduce dark coloration of the skin,” Sumayah Jamal, MD, of Schweiger Dermatology Group, tells SELF.
Another added benefit is that vitamin C only targets hyperpigmented areas, so it won’t lighten the rest of your skin, Fran E. Cook-Bolden, MD, a NYC-based board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon, tells SELF.
How to use it: Massage a few drops daily onto cleansed skin, preferably in the a.m. (before applying sunscreen, of course)—while you can use vitamin C at night, it does its best antioxidant work during the day, when your skin is exposed to environmental aggressors like UV rays and air pollution.
Here are some of our favorite, derm-recommended vitamin C serums.
2. Hydroquinone
When it comes to dark spot treatments, hydroquinone has been the gold standard for more than 50 years. You can find this ingredient over the counter in concentrations of 2% or less, and you can also get prescription versions, which have 4% or greater. On a biological level, hydroquinone works by inhibiting an enzyme called tyrosinase, which aids in the production of melanin, Dr. Cook-Bolden says. So naturally, less tyrosinase equals less melanin.
In some cases, hydroquinone can lighten hyperpigmentation in as little as two weeks, according to the experts we consulted. However, most people should anticipate using it for 8 to 12 weeks before seeing a visible difference, depending on a few factors (such as the extent of the hyperpigmentation, how deeply it penetrates, how long it’s been there, etc.).
“As with any product that is applied to the skin, hydroquinone serums can cause dryness, redness, and burning, which may signal an allergic reaction to the ingredient,” cautions Dr. Cook-Bolden, who always recommends patch testing first. Another potential side effect is “ghosting,” which is the inadvertent lightening of the skin outside of the targeted area. To avoid this, apply hydroquinone sparingly to the center of your spot(s) and then feather toward the edges, she advises.
How to use it: Apply it once per day (at night) to start , and if you tolerate it well after a few weeks, you can increase to twice daily for maximum effects. But don’t double up for too long: The experts we spoke with said you should stop using hydroquinone after six months (max), since long-term use can cause irritation, sensitivity, and, especially in people with darker skin, exogenous ochronosis—a rare condition that causes blue-black pigmentation. And on that note, if your skin tone falls in the medium to dark range, you should definitely talk to a dermatologist before using hydroquinone. Oh, and if you use it during the day, always pair it with SPF, since it can cause sun sensitivity.
3. Kojic acid
Kojic acid (a compound derived from mushrooms or fermented rice) is a common skin lightener that’s best used in conjunction with hydroquinone for maximum results. Like hydroquinone, “it works by inhibiting tyrosinase and, therefore, melanin production,” Carlos Charles, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Derma di Colore, tells SELF. “The risk commonly associated with topical kojic acid is allergic dermatitis, and that is why it is primarily found in relatively low concentrations.”
If you have sensitive skin, Dr. Charles says you should spot test first and opt for small doses (just enough to cover your spot) at night only since inflammation and irritation can be side effects. Also, don’t expect speedy results with topical kojic acid—it can take several months to see any improvement in hyperpigmentation.
How to use it: At night, only on dark spots, after cleansing and before your usual moisturizer.
If you’re curious about kojic acid, give these derm-approved serums a try—many of them contain other hyperpigmentation-reducing ingredients like niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and the aforementioned antioxidant hero vitamin C.
4. Soy
Soy extract, which is derived from the soybean plant, has also been shown to improve hyperpigmentation, Joshua Zeichner, MD, director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City, tells SELF. That’s why you’ll find it in tons of skin-lightening products. Essentially, soy works as a dark spot corrector by preventing melanin (pigment) from being transferred from melanocytes (color cells) to keratinocytes (skin cells), Dr. Zeichner explains.
How to use it: Apply to dark spots in the morning and at night after cleansing and before moisturizing.
This nourishing night cream from Aveeno is a solid option not just for treating dark spots but for reducing dullness and blotchiness overall.
5. Azelaic acid
This lesser-known ingredient is one of the top dermatologist-recommended treatments for facial dark spots. So what is it exactly? “Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring extract from oat, wheat, or rye that interferes with the production of abnormal pigmentation,” Dr. Zeichner explains. Essentially, like hydroquinone and kojic acid, it inhibits tyrosinase, reducing excess pigment as a result. Plus, Azelaic acid also has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, which means it can treat acne as well as help fade the hyperpigmentation blemishes may leave behind.
How to use it: Apply it all over your face once or twice a day; you can use it alone or with your favorite moisturizer.
6. Lasers
Lasers are the most expensive dark spot treatments on this list, but derms say they’re also the most impactful. “They use a focused beam of light that targets, breaks up, and eliminates the pigment particles in the skin,” Dr. Cook-Bolden says. CO2 and Fraxel lasers are two of the most common in-office treatments, but the best one for you will depend on your unique skin and needs—and the wrong one could cause unwelcome side effects like severe irritation and increased hyperpigmentation—so it’s important to consult a board-certified dermatologist first to stay safe, Dr. Camp adds.
“IPL [intense pulsed light] can also treat unwanted pigmentation,” Dr. Cook-Bolden says. “However, it delivers less focused light than lasers and may cause burns and discoloration in the surrounding skin, especially in darker or tanned skin.” So, yep, it’s best to talk to a derm before trying IPL too.
Cost: $250–$2,500
What to expect: Anticipate as many as six treatments (possibly more) with three to four weeks in between. And in case this wasn’t clear, only get laser or IPL treatments from an experienced board-certified dermatologist or plastic surgeon.
7. Chemical peels
Exfoliating treatments like chemical peels remove dead skin cells, revealing the newer, glowier ones underneath, Dr. Jamal explains. “Over time these treatments can stimulate collagen production, encourage skin-cell turnover, and reduce the appearance of dark spots,” he says. Common active ingredients in professional-grade peels include glycolic, mandelic, salicylic, and lactic acid. While you can buy at-home peels, these products are more likely to simply slough off dead skin rather than penetrate deep enough to lighten hyperpigmentation, Dr. Jamal adds.
On the, uh, dark side: A too-potent chemical peel can also cause inflammation, stinging, and even burns. So particularly if you have sensitive skin, be sure to talk to a dermatologist about how you may react before booking a peel—or even trying a potent at-home version.
Cost: $100–$1,000
What to expect: To see results, you typically need three to six treatments (possibly more) spaced out by three to four weeks. And same note as above: The safest move is to see a board-certified dermatologist.
If you're nevertheless curious about the effects of at-home chemical peels, consider one of these dermatologist-recommended products.
The Ordinary Peeling Solution AHA 30% + BHA 2%
Drunk Elephant
T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial
SkinBetter Science AlphaRet Exfoliating Peel Pads
8. Microdermabrasion
Microdermabrasion is another well-known exfoliating treatment for hyperpigmentation that uses tiny particles to sand away dead skin. Dr. Cook-Bolden describes microdermabrasion as a “nonchemical procedure that’s nonablative, which means it does not destroy skin tissue, and therefore does not require significant recovery time.” It’s best for milder hyperpigmentation, though, she notes—the results are typically modest compared to more intense exfoliating treatments, like chemical peels.
Cost: $100–$600
What to expect: Dermatologists typically recommend three to six treatments (possibly more), spaced out by two to four weeks.
9. Microneedling
This one’s not for the faint of heart (or sensitive of skin). Performed using a medical-grade, stainless steel roller covered with hundreds of tiny spikes, microneedling creates a series of micro-injuries that trigger the production of collagen (which keeps skin firm) and elastin (which makes it stretchy and, yep, elastic). While at-home microdermabrasion tools exist, Dr. Doft strongly advises seeing an experienced, board-certified derm for this treatment to avoid complications like infections and scarring.
For the best results, microneedling is often combined with topical treatments. “Once the skin barrier is ‘opened,’ it is also possible to infuse lightening ingredients, like vitamin C,” Dr. Doft says. Your dermatologist might also use a wound-healing serum, especially if you have a deeper skin tone, which can make you more prone to scarring. “Darker-skinned patients may also find that they become more pigmented initially,” she adds. “But [when microneedling is done correctly by a board-certified dermatologist] you should see a brighter complexion by the next week after treatment.”
Cost: $300–$1,750
What to expect: You’ll likely do three treatments (possibly more) every six weeks with your dermatologist.
One more thing: Don’t forget sunscreen.
Preventing dark spots from forming—and coming back—is often as simple as wearing sunscreen (which you’re already doing every day...right??). “Daily sunscreen is the absolute best way to prevent hyperpigmentation,” Dr. Zeichner says. “Even low levels of UV light exposure add up over a lifetime and can cause dark spots.”
Alan J. Parks, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of DermWarehouse, agrees: “Dark spots will get darker with sun exposure,” Dr. Parks tells SELF. “Sunscreens, and particularly physical sunblocks that have either zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, can block out most of the rays that will darken the spots.”
For the best protection, you need to use a “broad-spectrum” formula (at least SPF 30) to guard against damage caused by UVA and UVB rays. “You should also reapply your sunscreen every two hours—even if it is labeled all-day, 24-hour, waterproof, etc.,” Dr. Cook-Bolden adds. She also advises avoiding the sun as much as possible between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., when UV rays are at their strongest. If you can’t avoid the sun during these hours, seek cool, shaded areas when you can, or wear a broad-rimmed hat and, ideally, UPF clothing, which helps protect against sun spots (and UV damage).
How to use it: Apply SPF daily (even if you’re indoors) and reapply it every two hours if you’re in direct sunlight. And look for a water-resistant formula if you’re swimming or sweating.
When it comes to high-quality sun protection, your options range from drugstore products from derm-approved brands like CeraVe to Supergoop!'s cult favorite offerings to splurge-y lotions from Shiseido and other luxe brands. But the best options for you, according to the derms we consulted, are ones you enjoy using—so slathering up isn’t a chore you want to skip.
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