Size Inclusivity at Fashion Week Was Good, But It Could Be Better — Here’s Why

Eighteen months ago, we said goodbye to fashion week until it was safe to return. Well, the time has finally arrived and with the opportunity to once again attend shows, one question remained: would plus-size representation return?

Like most industries, fashion was hit hard by the pandemic and it quickly became a concern that this would bring the growth of size inclusivity within the industry to a halt. The Fall 2021 runway season added fuel to the fire when only six plus models were cast in shows. This was a huge drop compared to the 68 plus models who walked during Spring 2020. Now that in-person shows are back and brands are casting more models, it feels like we can only go up from here.

From looks we’ve never seen on fat bodies to what is actually shoppable in extended sizes, here are the best plus-size looks from NYFW.

Collina Strada 

Collina Strada welcomed us all back to fashion week with open arms, golden sunshine, and plenty of color. This collection set out to show us how to “dress for the mess” and it did just that. This look was a great reminder that the perfect outfit isn’t always obvious. Don’t be afraid to mix and match pieces and embrace your own style.

Christian Cowan

Christian Cowan brought the nightlife we have all been missing back to the runway. This particular look was exciting because it redefined what we normally see on plus-size models. Plus models are typically cast in the most conservative looks. Cowan has made a great argument for embracing your body and showing more skin.

Anna Sui

Taking inspiration from her own travels, Anna Sui reminded us that vacation is a state of mind with bold prints and color combos that were somehow unique and cohesive simultaneously. This look shows us that your body is a canvas and you shouldn’t be afraid to make a statement.

Theophilio

Edvin Thompson’s Theophilio show took us on a trip to Jamaica with a celebration of his roots. While many of the looks featured modern silhouettes and vivid colors, these looks reconsidered what the glamour of old Hollywood looks like on a plus-size body. The result? Timeless and beautiful.

Maryam Nassir Zadeh

It’s ironic that men have always had an easier time finding their size, yet we hardly see any size plus-size representation with male models on the runway. Maryam Nassir Zadeh conveyed that the coolness and ease of Lower East Side style aren’t limited to size or gender.

While each of these looks showed us that fat bodies can and should be on the runway, this ultimately does not matter if fat individuals cannot shop these looks in their size. Unfortunately, the largest sizes offered by the above designers end at 10 or 12. Unless they plan on extending their size range with these collections, this casting was performative at best.

They aren’t the only ones who fooled us with size representation this season. 56% of the designers who cast plus models for Spring ‘22 carry a size range of 14 and below. This is shocking when you consider that the average American woman is between a size 16 or 18.

Prabal Gurung

Good old pink and orange, a color combo that is so powerful it can be a daunting task to wear it from head to toe. Prabal Gurung sent this combination down the runway in multiple looks and each one lit up the faces of those in attendance. It’s normally taboo to wear something that makes you appear larger as a plus individual, but with this oversized jacket as the statement piece, Gurung has proved this dated concept to be untrue.

Moschino

Jeremy Scott’s Moschino models always look like Barbie dolls come to life and it’s nice when the plus-size community gets to be a part of that imagery. While we love this look and the rest of the nursery rhyme-inspired collection, putting the one plus model in a jacket and calling it a day seems like taking the easy route to inclusivity.

Coach

Coach reimagined the fashion of the nineties in a way that was current, relatable, and at the same time whimsical. The bright plaid and short silhouette of this look was a great reminder that you do not have to be a size zero to dress like Cher Horowitz.

Despite these brands being shoppable for someone who wears a size 16, they still do not truly carry plus-sizes. Plus-size clothing falls into the category of being a size 16 or larger. 

Here are some NYFW moments from designers who carry up to a size 22 or 24.

Brandon Maxwell 

Brandon Maxwell is known for redefining the classics, but with this show, it felt like he redefined himself as a designer. The collection was the most fun, sexy, and youthful thing we have seen from him so far. This is exciting news for any fat person because plus-size designs are notorious for being matronly and conservative. The brand goes up to a size 22. 

Staud 

Staud has been on the scene for over five years now, but the addition of extended sizing is fairly recent and was kept relatively quiet. The options are limited and do not feature the colorful palette that Staud brings to mind, but hopefully, the new addition of plus-size models in their show is a sign that there is more to come. The brand goes up to a size 24. 

Tanya Taylor 

When Tanya Taylor launched extended sizes in 2017, it didn’t take as much time and money as everyone else in the industry said it would. Since then, the brand has offered more and more styles in larger sizes each season. It’s exciting to see a designer make the commitment to plus-sizes and succeed. This presentation gave us a glimpse of spring and summer where fat bodies are celebrated and needless to say, we are excited! The brand goes up to a size 22. 

Studio 189

Abrima Erwiah and Rosario Dawson’s brand Studio 189 has always been about celebration. The brand was created to honor African art and this collection was designed to celebrate “the beauty of us.” This kind of celebration cannot be done without featuring bodies of different shapes and sizes and Studio 189 succeeded. This brand goes up to a size 24. 

Christian Siriano 

If you are fat and like fashion, then you know Christian Siriano. He was one of the first to have plus models walk in his shows and has tripled his business since adding plus-sizes. This year’s show had ten plus models with Precious Lee opening and closing the show, an honor that most brands traditionally reserve for thin models.

Siriano’s show happened on the first night of fashion week and was a strong start in terms of size inclusivity, but it didn’t last long. Out of the 28 designers that featured plus models, the majority of them only had one in their shows. These designers had over 856 looks and only 65 of them were on plus bodies. If we look at the even bigger picture, only 3% of the looks that went down this year's runways were inclusive. When you consider that 70 percent of the female population is plus-size, this math doesn’t add up.

Designers and brands are actively choosing to ignore the numbers that prove they would grow their customer base exponentially if they expanded their sizes. They continue to make excuses about the supposed large amount of resources it would take to properly make clothes for all bodies. It feels like brands care more about being exclusive by keeping fashion inaccessible than they do about making money.

As a fat person, it is exhausting to be continually let down by designers. It’s so easy for them to put one look on a size 14 model and call it a day. The worst part is that they get away with it. When the majority of those in attendance at NYFW can easily shop everything on the runway in their size, they don’t think twice about a show only having one plus model. We repeatedly see brands, whose pieces only go up to a ten, receive praise for being inclusive when that isn’t the case. The only way to change this is by holding the industry accountable, which is why we need more fat people in shows and at shows. 

Here are two brands from NYFW that do just that by setting the standard for not just plus-size fashion, but size-inclusive fashion. Yes, there is a difference.

Chromat

Chromat was the most inclusive brand at NYFW in more ways than one. The brand is known for its size-inclusive swimwear and has carried inclusive sizing since it started, currently offering up to a size 30. For this collection designer, Becca McCharen-Tran, collaborated with the artist Tourmaline to create pieces for people who don’t tuck. Many femme-trans people have struggled with swimwear bottoms that fit comfortably and Chromat is providing a solution. The show paid tribute to the late Marsha P. Johnson with hair, makeup, and location. The beach at Jacob Riis Park is where she met her lover.

With a cast of all shapes, sizes, races, and gender. The only thing missing was the usual NYFW attendees. The location was never publicly announced as the show was intended to be an event for the visitors and locals to enjoy. The inclusivity at this show was anything but performative and they didn’t need an audience to prove that.

When asked what the vibe for the collection was, Tourmaline said, “We are here to show up and show out, knowing that the more of us that show up, the more powerful and beautiful we get to be.”

Selkie

Selkie is known for its ethereal dresses that turn reality into a fairytale. For the brand’s NYFW debut the casting was a dream come true with 12 plus models and a total of 23 size-inclusive looks, the show featured the most size diverse cast we had seen all week. An emotional performance from plus-size dancer, Arianna Davis, made many in attendance teary-eyed. We rarely see anything like this show at Fashion Week, and when we do it always leaves us wanting more. Let’s hope other brands are taking notes.

Here’s to showing up more, no matter your shape and size!

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