Bromeliads (Bromeliaceae genera) are tropical-looking epiphytes that are easy to care for in average home conditions.
Although there are about 2,500 species plus thousands of hybrids and cultivars, the best bromeliads for beginners include those in the Guzmania, neoregelia, and Vriesea genera. This indoor plant is completely safe for pets and is shown to purify the air, which makes bromeliads some of the most popular houseplants to grow.
Common Name | Bromeliad |
Botanical Name | Bromeliaceae genera |
Family | Bromeliaceae |
Plant Type | Perennial |
Mature Size | Varies by genera and species |
Sun Exposure | Partial |
Soil Type | Well-draining |
Soil pH | Acidic |
Bloom Time | Blooms once; timing varies |
Flower Color | Red, green, purple, orange, yellow |
Hardiness Zones | 10-11 (USDA) |
Native Area | North America, Central America, South America |
Bromeliad Care
- Determine the type of light your bromeliad prefers. Different genera tolerate varying levels of light.
- Keep the plant in a room with temperatures between 60°F and 85°F and humidity at 40 to 50 percent.
- Water a bromeliad when the soil dries out. Moisten the soil or fill the center tank ("cup") formed by the rosette. Try using filtered water.
- Plant bromeliads indoors in a mixture of potting soil and sand or fasten the plant upright to an object.
Light
Provide bright, indirect light unless your bromeliad prefers a different light level. Generally, varieties with soft, flexible, spineless leaves usually prefer lower light levels, while those with stiff, hard leaves prefer bright indirect light. Some even withstand full tropical sun, while others quickly scorch.
Plants that turn yellowish might be getting too much light, while dark green or elongated plants might receive too little light.
Soil
Bromeliads grown indoors thrive in fast-draining potting soil that holds moisture. A mixture of 2/3 peat-based soil and 1/3 sand is ideal. Or use orchid mix, charcoal, or soilless potting mix. Many epiphytic bromeliads can be grown in containers, or grown as authentic air plants mounted to boards or logs.
Water
Some bromeliads tolerate drought conditions, but they prefer moist, not soggy, soil. In a typical house, it's usually not necessary to keep the central cup of the plant constantly filled with water unless you have bright light and high temperatures in your home.
Flush the central cup every so often to remove built-up salts. Water the soil sparingly when the top 2 inches feel dry to the touch. Water weekly during the growing season and reduce frequency during the winter.
Epiphytes (air plants without soil) need misting and a good soaking by submerging them in water once per week.
Temperature and Humidity
Bromeliads need protection from the cold. If you live in a climate with freezing temperatures, plant bromeliads in pots brought inside for the winter. Bromeliads prefer temperatures between 60°F and 85°F. Some cold-hardy types can survive temperatures down to 20°F but generally, they can't thrive under 40°F.
They grow well indoors in 40-50 percent humidity. In many climates, bromeliads can be moved outdoors during the summer.
Fertilizer
Bromeliads are not heavy feeders. During the growing season, use a liquid fertilizer diluted at half strength. Avoid feeding mature plants in winter or when the plant begins to flower.
Types of Bromeliads
The most common bromeliads, and usually the easiest for beginners, include:
- Guzmania: This genus includes the most common and readily available species, including G. lingulata, G. zahnii, G. Guzmania sanguinea, and G. monostachia, all with long, flat, glossy green leaves. Bracts can be bright red (such as the scarlet star), yellow, orange, purple, or pink blooms that last for 2 to 4 months.
- Neoregelia: Those species used as houseplants have colorful pink to deep purple bracts. They form short, fairly flat rosettes of leaves. Miniatures measure 1 inch across while larger plants other plants grow 40 inches wide.
- Vriesea: The species in this genus feature tropical, feather-like blooms and variegated foliage. Among the popular varieties are V. splendens and the hybrid Vreisea 'Fireworks.'
- Ananas comosus 'Champaca:' Ananas includes the common pineapple (the only type of bromeliad that produces fruit). A. Comosus 'Champaca', an ornamental pineapple often grown as a houseplant, has spidery leaves and miniature pineapples on top of the flower spike.
Is This the Right Plant for You?
A BROMELIAD IS A GOOD CHOICE FOR YOU IF:
- You have pets and want a stunning non-toxic plant to have around them.
- You want an indoor plant that can survive in even 40°F temperatures.
- You have an east- or west-facing window that can provide bright, indirect light
Propagating Bromeliads
After the flower dies, the plant begins to die. However, the parent plant will send out one or several pups at its base. When the pups reach about a third of the size of the parent plant, carefully cut them off with a sterile, sharp knife and pot them individually in containers where they will form roots.
Common Pests
Although sometimes susceptible to mealybugs, aphids, and scale, bromeliads are largely free of severe pests or diseases.
Eliminate mealybugs and aphids by spraying the plant with a mix of water and a few drops of dish soap. Dab the scale bugs with a cotton swab doused with rubbing alcohol.
How to Get Bromeliads to Bloom
Bloom Months
A pup blooms around one to three years after it's planted on its own. It will only bloom once in its lifetime.
What Does a Bromeliad Flower Look and Smell Like?
A mature plant will send up a flower spike once in its life that includes small and pretty but usually insignificant flowers surrounded by showy bracts. Some bromeliad flowers have a sweet scent while others do not have any smell.
How to Encourage More Blooms
Increasing light exposure can help the plant bloom, provided the other conditions are appropriate.
While it can be difficult to get any bromeliad to bloom, research shows that plants can be forced to bloom by exposure to ethylene gas. Help your bromeliad to spike by placing it in a tightly sealed, clear plastic bag for up to 10 days with a ripe apple. The apple will give off ethylene gas as it decomposes. Drain water from the bromeliad's cup before attempting this.
Common Problems With Bromeliads
Though bromeliads are somewhat easy-going plants, they are prone to some problems. Watch for the following signs:
Leaves Begin to Decay
If any part of the leaves begins to decay and die, the bromeliad could have copper poisoning. This plant is sensitive to the metals it absorbs, especially copper.
If you have treated any plant nearby with a copper fungicide or the bromeliad is in contact with any treated wood (which includes copper), the plant will begin to suffer from the toxin.
Water Spots, White Crud
Hard water high in mineral content can cause water spots or white crud to form on or around the base of the plant and in the center cup. It is best to water with demineralized water.
The Plant Begins to Rot
Bromeliads don't have a large root system, so plant them in small, well-draining pots. Planting them in a too-large pot without drainage can lead to rot.
The plant can develop rot if the soil is oversaturated since these plants prefer relatively dry conditions. Focus on filling the central "cup" formed by the leaves when watering. Use non-metal containers with drainage holes, and allow the water to run through the container so roots aren't sitting in water.