There’s a famous selfie of George Harrison outside the Taj Mahal in the early ‘60s: he’s wearing aviator shades, a white kurta and, as always, looks effortlessly cool. Even more notable is the fact that he seems to be the only person there.
Unfortunately, replicating George’s experience is all but impossible these days in the era of mass Taj tourism: seething crowds and endless tour groups can make visiting the Taj Mahal more stressful than spiritual. But there are ways of making the visit more rewarding. The key thing is to visit at the right time of year: mid-September to October is the optimal season, after the monsoon rains and searing summer temperatures, but before the big crowds arrive. March is another good time of year, with lighter crowds and reasonable temperatures.
For top viewing, get up early; ideally before sunrise. You certainly won’t have the place to yourself like George, but it will be much quieter than a few hours later. Alternatively, come at sunset, or book a ticket for one of the exclusive ‘full moon’ tours when you get a 30-minute timed slot shared with 50 other people.
Main photo: visitors at the Taj Mahal (Getty Images)
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When is the best time of day to visit?
Plan to arrive in the late afternoon. You’re never going to have the Taj to yourself, but the crowds will be thinning. The light, now coming over your left shoulder and quarter-lighting the dome, will be fabulous — and there’ll be no queues at either gate. Don’t bother with a guide. The flood of information detracts from the beauty and you can always find the history online. Don’t forget it’s closed on Fridays.
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A popular night view is when a full moon occurs — viewings have been allowed since 2005, except during the month of Ramadan.
One of the most disappointing myths is the one about visiting the Taj early in the morning at dawn in order to beat the crowds and see the tomb in its best light. That was true in the days before the Taj attracted 70,000 visitors a day but, sadly, no longer.
How long do people spend at the Taj Mahal?
The Archaeological Survey of India, which runs the Taj, monitors visitor movements. The average tourist spends 35 minutes taking pictures, 25 minutes inside the dome and ten minutes in the mausoleum. Just five minutes on average are spent sitting and staring, so here’s the final trick for a sunset visit: take a seat at the centre of the gardens, put the camera away and ask yourself which you’ll remember more, the sweaty shuffle with the selfie snappers through the mausoleum, or the birdsong and fragrance of blossom as the setting sun paints the dome in shades of rose?
Anything else I need to know?
Shoes are not allowed at the Taj Mahal, so take shoe covers if you don’t want to go barefoot. The best gate for entry is the South or East Gate. Avoid entering via the West Gate — it’s the most crowded. Finally, always book your tickets online before you go to avoid the queues on arrival.
Additional reporting by Oliver Berry
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