There’s no denying it: whatever the season, fashion’s obsession with denim is unwavering. It’s never a question of “if” one should swathe themselves in the fabric, but rather “how” it should be worn, and for spring/summer 2023 denim styles run the gamut, leaving no sartorial cravings unsated.
A quick recap: leading the pack was Kate Moss in a pair of denim illusion, printed leather jeans at Bottega Veneta, heralding the return of casual comfort. Wide, relaxed jeans also walked the runways at Chloé – where they came with tie details – Jacquemus and Givenchy, too, for which creative director, Matthew Williams, gave them a proper Y2K sandblast wash. The latter also showed denim cargo iterations, while at Burberry, MM6, Masha Popova and Alaïa, designers gave the denim maxi skirt proposition legs. The appetite for all things denim is at an all time high.
Libby Page, market director at Net-A-Porter.com, tells British Vogue that “denim has truly cemented itself as a luxury wardrobe staple in recent seasons.” For the retailer, denim has become a cornerstone of the online business, and customers are already ogling this season’s maxi skirt trend. “We have invested in nine styles from both the runway and true denim brands, working hard to scout out the perfect fit, length, and wash for quality over quantity.”
At Browns Fashion, the customer’s interest is firmly focused on the wardrobe classic. “The fashion consumer is looking for something easy and casual to help them transition back into everyday life, and our denim sales over the last few seasons reflect that,” says Holly Tenser, womenswear buying manager at the department store. “Margiela’s cut-out wide leg denim has continuously sold out for the last few years, and more designers are expanding their denim offering as it’s a great way to buy into luxury brands at a more accessible price-point for aspirational customers.”
Read more: The 12 Major Spring/Summer 2023 Shoe Trends
Jeannie Lee, head of womenswear buying at Selfridges, echoes this sentiment, reporting a 37 per cent year-on-year increase in denim trading, thanks, in part, to luxury brands investing in the blue business.
The takeaway? If you buy one thing for spring, make it something denim. Here are the spring/summer 2023 denim trends that are bound to reap compliments.
The denim maxi skirt
You could attribute the sudden plunge in hemline lengths to the plummeting financial market, but let’s just accept it for what it is: a trend. Last seen during the height of Sienna Miller’s boho era, the 2023 re-invention of the denim maxi, by the ways of Stefan Cook, Alaïa and Burberry, confers slick polish.
“Throughout the shows we saw a variety of denim wardrobing styled in an elevated way, from Altuzarra’s maxi denim skirts paired with cropped knits,” reports Julia Ferrar, buyer at Matchesfashion.com.
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Extra legroom
This news flash has even struck the Love Island villa: skinny jeans are over – temporarily at least. Instead, the current fashion cycle is rife with extra baggy – and extra comfortable – styles, which are practically de rigeur with the style set. Haven’t ventured into the world of slouchy denim yet? Look to Khaite, Jacquemus and Cecilie Bahnsen, who debuted her first ever denim on the runway in Paris this season with hand-appliqued detailing on elevated tonal double denim sets. “This was such an exciting development to see”, says Ferrar. “Each season she goes from strength to strength and continues to show us her breadth as a designer.”
In the mood for blue… but make it Y2k.
Distressed, low-slung, sandwashed, printed and studded – yes, you’ve guessed it, denim has been given a Y2K makeover. While this might make some shudder with fear, designers have finessed this throwback, making it a tad more digestible. At Molly Goddard, printed jeans peaked out from underneath signature cream-puff dresses, meanwhile Nensi Dojaka presented two-tone slacks juxtaposed with a bra and blazer. Elsewhere at Alexander McQueen, we saw a reworked take on Lee McQueen’s infamous bumster jeans from 1993.
The denim dress
The London design duo behind KNWLS left us longing for denim dresses, sending nu-super Alva Claire down the runway in a washed-out maxi. Thankfully, other designers followed suit: Monot presented a strapless, full denim gown (Britney Spears, take note), whilst Alaïa’s off-the-shoulder frock made a strong case for red carpet denim. And at Caroline Herrera, there was a do-it-all minidress that shot to the top of the fashion editor’s summer holiday wishlist.
