A few shots from a wander around some favourite routes in The Trossachs.
Good to get out of the city and stretch the legs.
Barra Trip
Once a year, me and my two mates from school go on a trip to the Highlands or the Hebrides. We’ve been doing it for many years now, only interrupted by monumental moments like the Covid pandemic or the birth of children. We’re all a bit older now and we’ve swapped dirtbag camping for Airbnb but these trips are always brilliant. For some reason, save one disaster in Harris where my tent was destroyed by a freak storm we’ve always enjoyed amazing weather. Mull, Skye, Jura, Glencoe, Wester Ross. So many great trips over the years and so many great memories.
This year we went to Barra, an island I’m very fond of and again we brought the weather. We cycled round the island, swam (briefly) in the sea off Vatersay, climbed Beinn Tangabhal and hopped over to Eriskay and South Uist for a day on the bikes, whiling away an afternoon at the pub. Matt introduced us to the delights of Sardine curry - only potentially bettered by the awesome monkfish curry in Cafe Kisimul. Calmac threw a spanner in the works with a cancelled ferry on Saturday but Nick got to fly off from that unique airport on Traigh Mhor and enjoyed the spectacle of Scotland from the air. Matt and I got to enjoy a leisurely day driving up through the Uists and the long trip back from Skye to Glasgow. Eight islands in a day!
All in all, another brilliant trip. So nice to spend time with these guys again, laughing, swapping old stories, reminiscing about drunken youthful over-exuberance and watching ludicrous old films (Predator 2?!). Working on my own I probably spend too much time by myself, luckily I don’t mind my own company but trips like these do make me realise that my life can be quite lonely at times. I suppose that’s another reason why these trips feel so special.
Here are some images:
The Needle (and the Damage Done)
One of the recent questions on @Photo_Poll on Twitter (yes, I’m not calling it X) was “Do you try and avoid popular photography locations?”
It’s something I wrestled with during the Hebrides book project and probably in general as well. But I suppose my experience of famous locations and one in particular somewhat changed my views on it. It was August; warm, sunny, school holidays and I was going to Skye to get the last couple of images I needed for the Inner Hebrides book (available now, all good bookshops, my website etc). Skye in summer isn’t my favourite place, aside from the midges it is just rammed with folk and the infrastructure really struggles to cope. That said, I drove up and parked at the Quiraing in the evening, a location I’ve been to many many times. It was almost sunset and most people had left when I went for a wander up the path. The light was good, but I was happy just to enjoy the view. I noticed a couple of visitors from overseas though - they were rapt with wonder at the sight. Buzzing with excitement at being in this incredible landscape. They asked me to take their photo and we had a wee chat about places they had been - basically all the most popular sights on the Highland tourist trail. And they had loved it, they thought Scotland was amazing but Skye in particular had a made a huge impression on them. Made me feel a bit churlish about moaning about how busy the island is. It can’t be helped that it is such draw, and the genie is out the bottle now anyway. The infrastructure simply has to be put in place to ensure that the landscape is protected so that it can be enjoyed by the increased number of visitors. Some of this is already in motion in Skye, with a lot of work undertaken at popular locations to help with parking etc.
Visitor stickers beside The Quiraing parking area
Good morning An Teallach
The Needle
The next day though, I planned to photograph The Needle. I had been before a couple of times in poor conditions and wanted a decent image for the Inner Hebrides book. But in truth I couldn’t really be bothered. I struggled to muster up the excitement to photograph something which has been photographed so many times before and where an original composition would be hard to make. All the usual things photographers say about popular locations. But nevertheless I set off from the van a long time before sunrise on the path which meanders into the chaos of the Quiraing. The sky to the east was already brightening. A fiery pink over An Teallach on the mainland. Graduations of purple hills receding into the distance. Swirling pinks in the sea. Glints of light from the villages on the western seaboard.
The Needle came into view and I scampered/wheezed up the scree-slope attempting to beat the sun. I didn’t quite manage it, but arrived in enough time to set up and wait for the light to hit the edge of The Needle. And it was glorious. In that moment it didn’t matter at all that it had been photographed thousands of times before. It didn’t matter that the exact composition has no doubt been made before. Hell, there are probably photographers who have images almost exactly the same as the one I made. But I didn’t care then and I don’t care now. The experience of being there, seeing a fantastic landscape, experiencing it in amazing light - that is what you visit these popular locations for.
It’s very easy to be cynical or sneering about what are deemed “honeypot locations” but the simple fact is that they are popular for a reason. They are magic. Why deny yourself that experience?
The only exception for me are those locations which have been badly degraded by increased footfall and have been spoiled. The view to Buachaille Etive Mor over the River Coupall falls for example. I doubt I will return to those locations until something has been put in place to alleviate the problems. Especially as I have experienced them in the past and have those images and memories.
The East Neuk of Fife
Just back from a wee trip to the East Neuk of Fife which coincided with some huge tides. We stayed in the Merchant’s House on the Esplanade and the waves were crashing over the sea wall and onto cars parked outside. Much entertainment for us although not for the guy who returned to a broken windscreen wiper or the other who returned to a sand blasted car with its bonnet covered in pebbles. The spray even hit the second floor windows of our house! I presume it’s not always like this at high tide. Is it? One day I will try to understand the tide. I know it has something to do with the moon and gravity. Or maybe I’ll ask my mate who is into flat earth theory for his take on it. I don’t think he believes in the moon or gravity though…
Outer Hebrides - Top Ten Locations
Part Two, this time it is the Outer Hebrides Top Ten. Again, these are not in order of preference and may change at any time. With so many amazing islands, beaches, places in The Outer Hebrides it’s so hard to choose a Top Ten. I could probably pick 10 locations from Harris or Lewis!
Tràigh Iar, Berneray
It is a cliche when describing the Hebrides to say that the beaches look Caribbean or Tropical because of their crystal clear turquoise seas and white sand. However an image of Tràigh Iar was actually used by the Thai tourist authority to promote Kai Bae beach in Thailand! I’m sure Kai Bae beach is lovely, but I bet you won’t get it to yourself (or feel a biting wind off the Atlantic). In all seriousness though, Tràigh Iar is a very special beach, over three miles of white sand, backed by towering dunes and with a truly remarkable vista north along the shore which ends on the peak of Ceapabhal on Harris.
Tràigh Iar, Berneray
West Coast, Barra
Barra is known as The Hebrides in Miniature and the west coast has a series of beaches which would be standouts on a any Hebridean island. A drive north up the A888 will have the seascape photographer desperate to stop and explore, with rugged heather clad hills diving down to white sandy shores and rocky headlands
West Coast, Barra
Ruabhal, Benbecula
At a mere 124m, this wee hill gives a view which far bigger peaks struggle to match. Panning round from the north, there is Harris and North Uist with the great of sharks-fin of Eabhal dominating the view. To the west the lighthouse of Hyskeir and beyond, on a clear day, St Kilda appearing on the horizon. To the south the towering hills of South Uist loom over the landscape. Then to the south east the islands of Rum, Canna and Skye. An amazing outlook for such little effort!
Ruabhal, Benbecula
Luskentyre, Harris
The beaches at Luskentyre are arguably the most famous in the Hebrides, regularly gracing lists of the Top 10 beaches in the world. It’s easy to see why, the combination of crystal clear waters and white sand alone would make a photographer jump for joy. However, it’s more than that; there is a unique interplay at Luskentyre between sea, sky and mountains which I feel is unsurpassed. Anywhere.
Luskentyre, Harris
Callanish, Lewis
Of all the megalithic sites in the Hebrides, and perhaps even the UK, Callanish is the most complex and dramatic. It certainly has a unique atmosphere and engenders a hushed reverence, particularly after sunset and before sunrise when the mysterious stones appear silhouetted against the sky. An almost bewildering arrangement of massive monoliths which jostle for attention, eliciting feelings of awe, wonder and a deep respect for the people who undertook the superhuman effort of erecting them.
Callanish, Lewis
Bosta, Great Bernera
The single track road which runs through the centre of Great Bernera gradually twists and turns over rocky ridges and alongside some lily strewn lochans, eventually terminating above the glorious sandy beach at Bosta. On a skerry just off shore is one of the Time and Tide Bells, a sculpture which rings out at high tide providing a reminder of the threat of rising sea level which faces coastal communities across the world.
Bosta, Great Bernera
Boreray, St Kilda
Most boat trips to St Kilda will visit the island of Boreray and its associated sea stacks and for some it is the highlight of the trip. Boreray is a dark and brooding presence, it’s towering cliffs thrusting out of the sea and playing host to the largest gannet colony in the world. There is a “lost world” feel about Boreray, one where a pterodactyl flying out from the cliffs wouldn’t be entirely surprising.
Boreray, St Kilda
Prince Charlies Beach, Eriskay
Bonnie Prince Charlies Jacobite rebellion ultimately ended in defeat, however he does gives his name to this wonderful stretch of beach on Eriskay - Coilleag a’ Phrionnsa (The Prince’s Cockle Strand) a simply delightful white sandy bay with an outlook to the islands of Luday, South Uist and Barra.
Prince Charlies Beach, Eriskay
Tràigh Hòrnais, North Uist
The northern coastline of North Uist is like no other place in the Hebrides. Endless sands reach out into the Atlantic, with towering sand dunes, flowering machair and tidal lagoons that all via for the attention. Tràigh Hòrnais is a great example of a fine North Uist beach.
Tràigh Hòrnais, North Uist
Riof, Lewis
If you were to imagine a perfect Hebridean beach, you would probably be thinking of a beach like Riof. A perfect crescent of white shell sand, lapped by turquoise waters and backed by tousled marram grass dunes. Offshore, mysterious uninhabited islands shelter the beach from the swell, with the beach on Pabaigh Mòr appearing tantalisingly close.
Riof, Lewis
For many more locations, how to get to them, where to stay, when to go and lots, lots more check out Explore & Discover The Inner Hebrides which is available now in all good book shops or from my website →
Inner Hebrides - Top Ten Locations
I often get asked where “the best” places in the Hebrides are and I find it really hard to answer. There is such a wealth of incredible places and such a variety of landscapes that it becomes very difficult to boil it down to a few...but after some deliberation here are my Top Ten locations in the Inner Hebrides. These are not in order of preference, it was hard enough to choose a top ten, let alone rank them! They also might change…
The Twin Beaches, Gigha
The Twin Beaches is the name given to the tombolo which connects Gigha with Eilean Garbh. It is formed of two beaches backed by marram grass. Bagh na Doirlinne is the more photogenic of the twins, with a perfect arc of bright white sand and turquoise waters. It features a delightful combination of rock outcrops and marram grass on the beach which provides a great foreground to the view north east.
The Twin Beaches, Gigha
Kiloran Bay, Colonsay
Kiloran Bay is the crowning jewel of the many fine beaches on Colonsay and to my mind the finest beach in the Southern Hebrides. A golden crescent of sand, overlooked by a craggy peak, lashed by the open Atlantic Ocean - you really couldn’t ask for more!
Kiloran Bay, Colonsay
Tràigh Chornaig, Tiree
Amongst many great beaches on Tiree, Tràigh Chornaig is perhaps the finest. On a summer day the combination of white shell sand and turquoise water is hard to beat and it really is an idyllic spot. From the beach you can just make out the isle of Rum to the north east and to the north west the uninhabited islands south of Barra are seen on the horizon. At the western end of the beach a scattering of blackhouses complete this perfect Hebridean scene.
Tràigh Chornaig, Tiree
The Bay At The Back of The Ocean, Iona
The romantically named Bay at The Back of The Ocean is located on the western side of Iona. A wide expanse of shingle banks, sandy bays and offshore rocks, it is seascape photographers paradise. The local granite is particularly splendid with rich seams of red rock contrasting with darker, blueish shades and you may even find some smooth pebbles of Iona marble amongst the shingle.
The Bay At The Back of The Ocean, Iona
Easdale, The Slate Islands
Easdale is a fascinating island, a strange yet utterly compelling mixture of natural and man-made landscapes. It is the smallest permanently inhabited island in the Hebrides with a thriving community, museum, restaurant and is also home to the World Skimming Stone Championship which tales place in one of the flooded slate quarries.
Easdale, The Slate Islands
West Loch Tarbert, Jura
West Loch Tarbert bites deeply into Jura, almost severing the island in two. From the northern shore the view across to Paps of Jura from the wave smoothed pebbles and boulders of the raised beaches is a fantastic sight.
West Loch Tarbert, Jura
Laig Bay, Eigg
The Bay of Laig is a location which can provide days of inspiration for landscape photographers with each visit revealing more and more possibilities. The beach is comprised of two-tone grey and black sand which is sketched by the tide into fantastic patterns, presenting themselves particularly well under a skim of shallow water at low tide. These patterns draw the eye out to sea, to the saw-toothed mountains of Rum which dominate the view.
Laig Bay, Eigg
Calgary Bay, Mull
Situated on the north west tip of Mull, Calgary Bay is an idyllic location. A broad sweep of pure white sand, backed with low dunes and colourful machair it is an archetypal Hebridean paradise and one which will be high up on your list to visit. Sheltered by hills on either side, it is a calm, relaxing place and in summer its crystal clear waters are both tempting for photography and for a swim.
Calgary Bay, Mull
Dun Caan, Raasay
Dun Caan is a familiar hill to many, its flat-topped conical summit seen from as far away as the Skye Bridge. Such isolated peaks tend to provide great views and Dun Caan is no exception. It is no exaggeration to say that it might provide the finest view from a wee hill anywhere in the Hebrides. During the golden hour, the view across to Skye is hard to beat.
Dun Caan, Raasay
Elgol, Skye
On an island where the Cuillin loom large on the skyline from many locations, it is perhaps at Elgol that you are granted their finest aspect. Across the loch from the small fishing village at the end of the winding road through Strathaird, the Cuillin can be appreciated in all their dark, foreboding glory. Rising straight from the sea, the jagged crenelated ridge forms one of the most dramatic landscape in the UK and the coast around Elgol provides the perfect foreground for this epic view.
Elgol, Skye
For many more locations, how to get to them, where to stay, when to go and lots, lots more check out Explore & Discover The Inner Hebrides which is available now in all good book shops or from my website →
Canna
The Cuillins from Compass Hill, Canna
We had a flying visit to Canna back in October, staying in the lovely shepherds hut at Canna Campsite. Lucked out with the weather we and got to see the island at its best. An incredible sunrise, a clear day with fantastic views to the Cuillins, sea eagles circling above, swimming in the sea (surprisingly mild) and then one of those unexpectedly colourful sunsets. Magic. Also visited another favourite beach on the way - Camasdarach near Arisaig.
Early autumn in the Cairngorms
Craigellachie NNR
A few images from a holiday at the start of autumn in the Cairngorms. We both had Covid but managed to wheeze our way around a few walks. Autumn seems to get later every year, this was the first week in October and a lot of the leaves had barely started changing colour.
Explore & Discover The Hebrides - The Books!
You wait years for a photographic guidebook to the Hebrides and then two come along at once…Yes, my two new FotoVUE books; Explore & Discover The Inner Hebrides and Explore & Discover The Outer Hebrides are now available to order!
East Neuk Nets
Photographing the Hebrides - The Last One (for now)
The last location for the book was Sgúrr na Stri, the diminutive outpost of The Cuillin with the most incredible view. The last time I attempted it was the day after the Queen died. I drove up from Glasgow, stayed in the van and woke with a migraine. I knew I couldn’t do it that day and drove home, slowly and with a sense of abject failure. I had a horrible feeling that I wouldn’t get the chance to include it in the book.
However…all was not lost. With a chance of good weather promised we drove up to Elgol on Ok Thursday, with the Misty Isle boat to Loch Coruisk booked for Good Friday. The clouds scudded across The Cuillin at sunset with a burst of low sunlight illuminating the flanks of Gars-Bheinn. Wild light. Always a treat. I was at the pier, tucked in behind the fish van as the fishermen offloaded the days catch, marvelling at their ability to work while magic unfolded on the horizon. They’ve seen it all before.
The next day we were up at 6, coffee and porridge in a pastel dawn. The light gradually dialling up. The Cuillin jagged on the horizon warmed by the early rays and sending puffs of cloud across the ridge, held there like sheep’s wool on barbed wire. We were soon on the Misty Isle boat and speeding across the water to that great cirque of rock, the Cuillin, the amphitheatre which encloses Loch Coruisk.
All was fine until we reached the loch. Or more specially the outflow of the loch where the Scavaig River begins its headlong rush to the sea. It was too deep and the stepping stones were below water - disaster. Alfie (the dog) can’t swim and I couldn’t carry him across because like an absolute idiot I had forgotten my crocs and it was too deep and slippery. So, after much swearing (me), reasonable suggestions (Jo), we decided I would head up the hill with Jo and Alfie staying down at Loch Coruisk. I was pretty gutted, I had really wanted to share the moment on the summit with them, but it was not to be. After taking off my boots, socks and trousers I crossed the river and motored uphill to make up for lost time. The going was tough. Up and up over boggy, pathless ground and it would be accurate to say that I do not have hill fitness these days! But I kept going and reached the broad ridge of Sgúrr na Stri where the views opened. And what views. To the north east, the towering peak of Blà Bheinn. To the west, an aerial view of Loch na Cuilce and Loch nan Leachd with the boats from Elgol looking like children’s bath-time toys on the bright blue water. But It was the view north-west from the summit towards Loch Coruisk and the Cuillin that really got me. It was difficult to take in the sheer awesome splendour of the view and my eyes were bouncing along the ridge, taking in the serrated peaks and vertiginous slopes, lingering on the Inaccessible Pinnacle. It really is a sublime viewpoint. Finest mountain view in the Uk? Yes. Without a doubt.
I sat there, rapt, enjoying the view, a Caramel Wafer and a rest. And suddenly that was it done. All the locations for the Photographing The Hebrides project - done. 4 years. 32 islands. Hundreds of Calmac meals. Thousands of photographs. I got quite emotional thinking about it but I’ll save my thoughts on that for another blog.
Then, strangely enough I bumped into Danny Macaskill on his mountain bike. Odd who you meet up a hill!
The way down was a breeze, a jog over grippy gabbro slabs and then a wade across the river, not caring now if my boots got soaked, as Alfie jumped up into my arms and licked my sweaty face. I was sunburnt, hot, and content. Almost like a holiday this photography lark.
My Camera Saw The Northern Lights
Alright stop it with the northern lights photos now. You didn’t see that. Your camera did.
This was a tweet I was about to send in response to the huge number of over-saturated, high ISO, long exposure images of the northern lights which were all over social media recently. I didn’t send it because it seemed a bit mean-spirited and there is enough of that on twitter (by design probably, but that’s another subject). Anyway, I still think the point is worth discussing further without the burden of trying to reduce it to a few hundred characters.
Above are two images from an “orange alert grade” aurora borealis last week. I was in Islay, in an area with minimal light pollution and the sky was clear. The first image shows what I saw after letting my eyes get accustomed to the gloom. A faint, almost colourless glow on the horizon. The second is what my camera saw. This was taken with a Fujifilm X-T2 with a Fujinon 35mm f1.4 lens. The settings were f1.4, 10 seconds exposure at ISO 800 and Jpegs set to Provia Film Simulation. So not even that high an ISO nor was it a particularly long exposure. And look at the difference. WOW! Awesome! You’re so lucky to have seen that etc…But the thing is. I didn’t see it. My camera did.
So what? Why does this even matter?
Well, I think it matters because the northern lights are an incredible natural spectacle that we are sometimes lucky enough to see in Scotland. A major storm (which I’ve seen once or twice before) is breathtaking. A ghostly and ethereal light dance in the sky. Pillars of milky green or pale blue which shift across the horizon with the occasional hint of pinky-red. It is literally awesome in the truest sense of that word. What it isn’t though is a fluorescent green and pink smudge. My concern is that in the race for likes we potentially spoil this incredible natural spectacle for those who haven’t seen it yet, by showing what the camera sees and not what we see. I would hate for someone to be lucky enough to finally experience the aurora borealis and to be disappointed, comparing it unfavourably against with the lurid long exposures they’ve seen on social media or news sites desperate for clicks.
Does this not apply to all landscape photography though? Should it only be a dispassionate reflection of what we actually see? I’d argue no. There is of course a place for creative processing, for artistic expression. For enhancing the natural qualities of what we photograph. I do it with most images after all. However, it is one thing to use a long exposure to blur water (nobody will go to a river and leave disappointed that the water wasn’t smoothed out) but enhancing the spectacle of the northern lights and intimating that it actually looked like that if you were standing there?
Not for me I’m afraid. Leave the creation of wonder to nature. It does it best.
Postcards from Islay
A surprise trip to Islay for my brothers 40th birthday. It wasn’t intended to be a photo trip, but I still squeezed in a bit and managed to pick up some last few bits and pieces for the book(s). Highlights were the crazy looking wild goats that hung around Kilnaughton Bay, seeing dolphins jumping beside Caraig Fhada lighthouse (from the house that is, unlike Jo who was walking the dog and got to see them at close quarters actually from the lighthouse!). What else…all the nine distilleries were great to visit and I wasn’t even driving most of the time (thanks Jenna!) so got to sample a lot of lovely whisky. Tried some New Make Spirit at Bunnahabainn which blew my head off a bit. It was something like 65% proof and hadn’t been matured in a cask so was a bit different - completely colourless and hadn’t taken on the sherry or bourbon flavours which normally come from the barrels. Amazing stuff - the taste of barley and peat was really strong. Enjoyed a blustery walk out to the American Monument on the Mull of Oa. Visited the wild west coast beaches of Saligo and Machir Bay. Visited the ancient seat of the Lords of The Isles at Finlaggan. All the main hits.
My camera even saw the Northern Lights at one point but that will be separate blog post…
Plants Behind Glass, Glasgow Botanic Garden
Pressed against the cold glass, windows steamed up. Exotic specimens out of reach.
Glasgow Botanic Gardens, Winter 2023
Glasgow City Council are apparently going to start charging for access to the Glasshouses. So this will be the closest you will get, unless you pay. Sign the petition if you like.
Photographing The Hebrides - Luing
The first trip of the year and the first time doing any landscape photography since Christmas as well. Just a short trip this time, an overnighter in the van at Cullipool on Luing. Another great wee island, the black slate/sand beaches are fantastic and the view from Cullipool with the cottages peaking out and Scarba in the background is really special. Found a couple of other good spots as well which will need a return trip at some point in better light.
Also sneaked in a shot from Seil as well (the last image)…another spot to return to again. One day I will hopefully get there in stormy conditions with big waves for a bit of drama!
This is what winter should be
The dismal December of mild rainy weather gave way to a few days of midwinter magic. A hoar frost that coated the trees like delicate tinsel. That fantastic combination of icy blue shadows and golden winter light.
This is what winter should be.
There are one or two images in here which I really like. In fact, the image of the blue tarp hanging from the tree is probably my favourite of the year. There is just something so desperately forlorn about it. Like a battlefield remnant. A useless shelter. The tattered flag of a ruined army.
Happy Christmas x
Photographing The Hebrides - Berneray, North Uist, South Uist and Benbecula
After a few days on Harris we took the short ferry which slaloms across the Sound to Berneray and drove down through North Uist with the football on the radio. I thought I’d watch the second half when I reached the house. Unfortunately it didn’t have Wi-Fi and there wasn’t a 4G signal either. It sounds ridiculous, but I actually felt a slight panic. How would I watch the football? how could I see a weather forecast? how will we possibly survive without the internet?…..Well, we did survive and to be honest, not being able to see the football was a relief.. As the week went on, I actually found that I enjoyed the peace and a break from relentless scrolling through depressing news. I’d say living without the internet was about 80/20 lovely/annoying. Although, I did find a boulder in the field which seemed to have 4G and this was used once a day to download podcasts!
The weather (despite what these images show!) wasn’t the best. A constant wind and rain showers which sometimes sent us scurrying back to the van persisted throughout the week, with (as always) a lovely calm and sunny day at the end. That’s the way it goes though! Was still lovely to tour about the islands and visit the beaches. It was fantastic to see St Kilda from Cleitreabhal a'Deas. It looked so close! Other highlights were Berneray’s West Beach, a muddy walk up Ruebhal and seeing Alfies confused reaction to the wild ponies sticking their heads into the van on the road to Loch Skipport. Also, visiting The Hut of Shadows - a small turf-roofed building which functions as a camera obscura was amazing.
Photographing The Hebrides - Harris, Autumn 2022
Wild weather, waves and walks. That sums up a memorable few days in Harris. No real set aims photography-wise so nice to just play at some familiar spots and visit some favourite places. Here’s a few postcards from the wonderful Isle of Harris (and Scalpay). Missing those beaches now!
Sutherland Trip
Images from a great week in Oldshoremore with my dad, brother and Alfie the dog. I absolutely love this place, the beach is one of the finest in Scotland and the house we stay in has a grand view of it. We weren’t blessed with the best weather, but we still managed a few decent walks and returned to some favourite places. Our trip to Sandwood Bay on a very wild and wet day where brutal storms raced in off the sea interspersed with flashes of warm sun was definitely a highlight. The walk back form the beach in a constant downpour was strangely enjoyable, a head-down race back to the van as the rain permeated our jackets. The dog was absolutely sodden but he needed a bath anyway.
Photographing The Hebrides - Rum
Of all the islands I’ve visited on the Photographing the Hebrides project (apart from St Kilda), Rum felt the most like an adventure. It’s a wild island, dominated by its mountainous and empty centre and one which I was looking forward to visiting with just a wee bit of trepidation! My plan was to cycle across to Kilmory and camp for the night. Six punctures later I really didn’t think this would happen, but I managed to push my heavily laden bike along the the remaining 5km of road/rocks. It wasn’t the most auspicious start to my trip, but luckily I happened to be camping beside Mike from Palace Cycles in Carlise, who came to my rescue with a spare inner tube to replace my shredded and badly patched one. Lifesaver!
From there on in, the trip was a delight. Observing the deer herd at close quarters, wandering the dunes and watching as the Cuillin ridge darkened against a ridiculously pink sunset. The midges were pretty horrendous though, even with a head net on they managed to give my face a right good going over. But it’s like Dolly Parton said, If you want to visit Rum in the summer you have to put up with looking like John Merrick. Or words to that effect.
The next day I cycled over to Harris on the south-west of the island to visit Bulloughs ludicrous mausoleum, a fittingly incongruous and out-of-scale monument to the islands history as a plaything for rich absentee landlords. I was going to camp beside it, but it felt odd, a bit spooky and there were also cows roaming around. I’ve got a fear of cows ever since one chased me on Eigg and I had to leap into someones garden to avoid its stupid bovine bulk. No way was I camping around them. So I returned to Kinloch and stayed at the campsite on the waterfront surrounded by millions of midges instead. A beautiful, but cold sunrise over the mainland was my reward though. The next day was far more leisurely, with a stroll up into the hills, a cycle around the village and a very welcome shower.
