Another CV Axle Discussion Thread (1 Viewer)

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Ya'll hating on the Cardone CVs like you've actually broken one. I've been daily driving a pair of these for a while now. Lifted, big tires, no diff drop, and even went wheeling once on them.

Worst case, these suddenly start giving me issues, I'm out about $125 bucks and a few hours of my time. I'd end up getting some OEM CVs, and using the warrantied units as spares. I'm personally OK with eating this amount of money/time to give it a shot.

I'd be curious how many people who are diehard OEM CV fans ever leave the pavement.

I took this photo while wandering off the pavement last year at HIH. From what I understand, the rig was triple locked and the CV's sheared the splines either in the front diff or at the hubs. That's second hand info, so take it with a grain of salt. I know he was stuck as I watched him spin for quite a while, haha. Just don't know what the final answer was on the failed part. It was a failure of something in the front end driveline. Poor guy was stuck for hours.

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Trail use aside though, a CV can wear out with just highway and parking lot use. Driving in snow/ice can shock a driveline just as good as a trail. I don't think you need to be an 'every weekend trail warrior' to benefit from an OEM CV.
 
I took this photo while wandering off the pavement last year at HIH. From what I understand, the rig was triple locked and the CV's sheared the splines either in the front diff or at the hubs. That's second hand info, so take it with a grain of salt. I know he was stuck as I watched him spin for quite a while, haha. Just don't know what the final answer was on the failed part. It was a failure of something in the front end driveline. Poor guy was stuck for hours.


Trail use aside though, a CV can wear out with just highway and parking lot use. Driving in snow/ice can shock a driveline just as good as a trail. I don't think you need to be an 'every weekend trail warrior' to benefit from an OEM CV.
I was one of the guys helping to get him out. front axle went boom and the truck slid in a bad spot. he melted my cheap xbull boards, but we got him out eventually.
 
Sweet.... So I got a response from Nitro Gear, nothing ground breaking but some good clarification.

Here is what they said,
These CV axles are a standared replacement type, not a heavy duty or chromoly version like we offer in some models. They do utilize the multi bearing type cv

I am trying to clarify what is meant by "multi bearing type cv" to get a clearer picture. I don't do anything that would necessitate a heavier duty construction and definitely don't need chromoly axles or birfs for that matter as I wheel a handful of times a year and nothing that is overly hard. Just looking for something that is in-between (price tag and quality wise) the OEM and big parts store .
 
Sweet.... So I got a response from Nitro Gear, nothing ground breaking but some good clarification.

Here is what they said,
These CV axles are a standared replacement type, not a heavy duty or chromoly version like we offer in some models. They do utilize the multi bearing type cv

I am trying to clarify what is meant by "multi bearing type cv" to get a clearer picture. I don't do anything that would necessitate a heavier duty construction and definitely don't need chromoly axles or birfs for that matter as I wheel a handful of times a year and nothing that is overly hard. Just looking for something that is in-between (price tag and quality wise) the OEM and big parts store .
I maintain that if you still have OEM axles, then your best bang for the buck is to buy the OEM outer shaft + outer joint + boot kit. At $200 per side, you’re just out ~$50 more per side than you would be if you bought aftermarket units but get to keep OEM quality. I think it’s rare that the inner joint and shaft that you’d need to swap over to the new outboard unit are worn/bad, particularly on non-lifted trucks. Thus, getting messy for 30 minutes is worth saving $200 while retaining OEM quality, in my opinion.
 
I maintain that if you still have OEM axles, then your best bang for the buck is to buy the OEM outer shaft + outer joint + boot kit. At $200 per side, you’re just out ~$50 more per side than you would be if you bought aftermarket units but get to keep OEM quality. I think it’s rare that the inner joint and shaft that you’d need to swap over to the new outboard unit are worn/bad, particularly on non-lifted trucks. Thus, getting messy for 30 minutes is worth saving $200 while retaining OEM quality, in my opinion.
Completely agree. In my case I have Import Direct/Sur-Track aftermarket ones. Hub flanges are clunking a lot on shift, so I am assuming that splines are bad/goobered so planning to just replace with better quality CVs.
 
Completely agree. In my case I have Import Direct/Sur-Track aftermarket ones. Hub flanges are clunking a lot on shift, so I am assuming that splines are bad/goobered so planning to just replace with better quality CVs.
Understood. If I were to go aftermarket, I think I’d go with the Cardone HDs. I bought one a few months ago just to check it out and compare with new OEM, and it certainly seems the closest to OEM quality relative to the ones that Advance Auto, Autozone, etc carry. The tulips were identical to OEM, lengths were the same, and they seemed to have similar range of motion without binding. However, I don’t know if they run a 3-ball joint or 6-ball joint, as I didn’t tear it down. The thermoplastic boots are a nice addition, though.
 
I am sort of on the fence at the moment. Rebooting upper ball joint and cv axles is next on my to do list. The local NAPA does not have the cardons that have the upgraded boot, just the standard booted ones. I have the Toyota OEM boot kit, but I am not certain if the cv axles I have on the truck now are OEM. I may end up buying the Napa cardon cvs and open the boot for a definitive bearing count. I have extra clamps from pfran as well as what came with the reboot kit. If I do, I'll be sure to post up what's in there.
 
I am sort of on the fence at the moment. Rebooting upper ball joint and cv axles is next on my to do list. The local NAPA does not have the cardons that have the upgraded boot, just the standard booted ones. I have the Toyota OEM boot kit, but I am not certain if the cv axles I have on the truck now are OEM. I may end up buying the Napa cardon cvs and open the boot for a definitive bearing count. I have extra clamps from pfran as well as what came with the reboot kit. If I do, I'll be sure to post up what's in there.

Same boat as you... Just received the boots for the upper ball joints so that will be taken care of in a few weeks when I have the truck down to replace the front lower bushing for the diff. I am basically at the point where I am going to be doing a full front axle rebuild (new hub flanges, dust caps, snap rings, bearings, nuts, claw washer, axles) so I am thinking I am going to just throw all the seals in there for good measure as well as needle bearings and brass bushing on the spindle. That is how badly 4WP in Las Vegas $#&@ed up this job.

With the above said, seeing as there is nothing spectacular about the Nitro Gear CVs and not having the money to put OEM axles in it (unless I can find cheap, good pull offs that can be rebooted) I am going to purchase the Cardone HDs as well.
 
Same boat as you... Just received the boots for the upper ball joints so that will be taken care of in a few weeks when I have the truck down to replace the front lower bushing for the diff. I am basically at the point where I am going to be doing a full front axle rebuild (new hub flanges, dust caps, snap rings, bearings, nuts, claw washer, axles) so I am thinking I am going to just throw all the seals in there for good measure as well as needle bearings and brass bushing on the spindle. That is how badly 4WP in Las Vegas $#&@ed up this job.

With the above said, seeing as there is nothing spectacular about the Nitro Gear CVs and not having the money to put OEM axles in it (unless I can find cheap, good pull offs that can be rebooted) I am going to purchase the Cardone HDs as well.
I feel your pain, that is a lot of carnage. You really can't avoid doing all of that work and retain any sort of piece of mind. Wrenching on my own chit can be a pain at times, down right inconvenient, but yours is not the first horror story that's convinced me to wrench on my own stuff, within reason. Good luck, walk away and take breaks when you need to!
 
On a different vehicle, I built a hybrid axle that was a known solid axle product with OEM boots. The boots were the weak spot on those axles. The new OEM boots are running on those axles going on 4 years. The car is lowered. Lowering and lifting seem to place more stress on axles than stock height.
 
I feel your pain, that is a lot of carnage. You really can't avoid doing all of that work and retain any sort of piece of mind. Wrenching on my own chit can be a pain at times, down right inconvenient, but yours is not the first horror story that's convinced me to wrench on my own stuff, within reason. Good luck, walk away and take breaks when you need to!
Oh yeah brotha... PREACH!!!
It is what it is, I somewhat rushed into the purchase and am not paying for that. My own fault, doesn't mean I can't be upset about it. And I trust what I do as I am anal retentive, hence why I have been commenting so much on pretty much ALL the CV Axle threads.

From everything, it seems that if your options/funding don't allow you to go with OEM then the Cardone axles are your best bet. No other aftermarket axles out that that I have read about have given much of any sense of security, even the Cardone ones. If the option is there, go OEM and be done with it. Go new and go home.

Hopefully, when the time comes (next month or two depending on how long it takes me to gather everything needed) I can put the Cardone's in and not have to deal with them again. However, that does not mean that I won't start contingency funding for when/if those decide to give up the ghost and THEN I will go OEM. Basically just using the Cardones as a stop gap until I can afford NEW OEM!
 
Oh yeah brotha... PREACH!!!
It is what it is, I somewhat rushed into the purchase and am not paying for that. My own fault, doesn't mean I can't be upset about it. And I trust what I do as I am anal retentive, hence why I have been commenting so much on pretty much ALL the CV Axle threads.

From everything, it seems that if your options/funding don't allow you to go with OEM then the Cardone axles are your best bet. No other aftermarket axles out that that I have read about have given much of any sense of security, even the Cardone ones. If the option is there, go OEM and be done with it. Go new and go home.

Hopefully, when the time comes (next month or two depending on how long it takes me to gather everything needed) I can put the Cardone's in and not have to deal with them again. However, that does not mean that I won't start contingency funding for when/if those decide to give up the ghost and THEN I will go OEM. Basically just using the Cardones as a stop gap until I can afford NEW OEM!
My hope is that what's on the truck is OEM, and reboot. I understand people's concern about non OEM cv's, I really do. An ex a million years ago had a Subaru Legacy that ate cv's for lunch, like one a year, I used to joke with her that her car had a weird "cycle". Incidentally I used to have a Subaru Outback and replaced a cv with a carquest cv and it was trouble free for the remaining two years that I had it. I can't stomach dropping 800 plus for some cv axles. From what I've seen the NAPA ones look stout, I don't do any extreme wheeling or anything, so those are definitely the leader of the pack in the Plan B category of things.
 
PO replaced axles about 4 month before I got truck. Such a waste. Aftermarket ones, installed by shop, total bill is BIG! They have tons of play in flanges. Clunk like crazy. And nothing to rebuild/reboot. In a same boat, will monitor topic and install Cardones + flanges unless there is negative reviews..
 
My hope is that what's on the truck is OEM, and reboot. I understand people's concern about non OEM cv's, I really do. An ex a million years ago had a Subaru Legacy that ate cv's for lunch, like one a year, I used to joke with her that her car had a weird "cycle". Incidentally I used to have a Subaru Outback and replaced a cv with a carquest cv and it was trouble free for the remaining two years that I had it. I can't stomach dropping 800 plus for some cv axles. From what I've seen the NAPA ones look stout, I don't do any extreme wheeling or anything, so those are definitely the leader of the pack in the Plan B category of things.

Interestingly enough I was looking on the NAPA website and came across this!!
"An extra day this February means an extra day of savings. From now through 2/29 you save 20% on buy online ship to home purchases. Use code: LEAP20 at checkout to save."

PO replaced axles about 4 month before I got truck. Such a waste. Aftermarket ones, installed by shop, total bill is BIG! They have tons of play in flanges. Clunk like crazy. And nothing to rebuild/reboot. In a same boat, will monitor topic and install Cardones + flanges unless there is negative reviews..
Apparently, in one of the other threads someone was talking about how the GX470 crew seems to live and die by the Cardones, absolutely love them even more than OEM.

Mine is a similar story, PO replaced PS in June 2018 then DS in July 2018. Work done by 4WP in Vegas to the tune of about $300 a pop (labor was more than axles). Look back in my build thread for Alita and you will see the "type" of work they do. Doesn't surprise me that less than 2yrs later they are making noise, hubs have lots of play and will cost me probably a good $1000 when all is said an done to correct their work. Makes me think of FJ40Jim's quote from the 60 thread... His signature line says "Under hood janitor. Cleaning up other people's #$%& for 40+yrs."

Now I understand.
 
Interestingly enough I was looking on the NAPA website and came across this!!
"An extra day this February means an extra day of savings. From now through 2/29 you save 20% on buy online ship to home purchases. Use code: LEAP20 at checkout to save."


Apparently, in one of the other threads someone was talking about how the GX470 crew seems to live and die by the Cardones, absolutely love them even more than OEM.

Mine is a similar story, PO replaced PS in June 2018 then DS in July 2018. Work done by 4WP in Vegas to the tune of about $300 a pop (labor was more than axles). Look back in my build thread for Alita and you will see the "type" of work they do. Doesn't surprise me that less than 2yrs later they are making noise, hubs have lots of play and will cost me probably a good $1000 when all is said an done to correct their work. Makes me think of FJ40Jim's quote from the 60 thread... His signature line says "Under hood janitor. Cleaning up other people's #$%& for 40+yrs."

Now I understand.
Mr. Chenowith has seen it all, that's for sure.
 
Interestingly enough I was looking on the NAPA website and came across this!!
"An extra day this February means an extra day of savings. From now through 2/29 you save 20% on buy online ship to home purchases. Use code: LEAP20 at checkout to save."

Rockauto shows $175 for pair of them delivered to my door. Doubt NAPA will beat that even with 20% (still sales tax?)
 
Rockauto shows $175 for pair of them delivered to my door. Doubt NAPA will beat that even with 20% (still sales tax?)
The heavy duted boots are not available online at NAPA, but the standard Cardones are. Ground shipping appears to be free.

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